Section 4 Assembling Your Stockade Log System

Section 4

Assembling Your Stockade Log System

4.1 Install Base Course to Foundation (Details L-1-RR & RF) ..... 4-4 Base Course to Subfloor ...... 4-4 4.2 Window & Door Bucks (Details L-40 & L-41) ...... 4-7 Installing Door Bucks ...... 4-8 4.3 Install Wall Courses ...... 4-9 Keep Walls and Corners Plumb ...... 4-9 Installing Window Bucks ...... 4-10 Stacking Identical Logs ...... 4-10 4.4 Second Floor Girder Installation ...... 4-11 4.5 Second Floor Beams ...... 4-12 4.6 Temporary Second Floor Decking ...... 4-12 4.7 Log Gable Ends ...... 4-13 How to Install Log Gable Ends ...... 4-13 Cutting Log Gable Ends (Detail L-30) ...... 4-13 Installing Log Siding over Non-Heated Areas 4.8 Installing Doors and Windows (Details L-40; L-41) ...... 4-14 Preparations ...... 4-14 Installing the Window or Door ...... 4-14 Exterior Doors ...... 4-16 4.9 Electrical Considerations ...... 4-17 4.10 Log Caulking (Interior & Exterior) ...... 4-18 Applying Caulk ...... 4-18 4.11 Exterior & Interior Wood Preservative ...... 4-21 Exterior Wood Preservative Application ...... 4-21 Interior Wood Preservative Application ...... 4-22 Additional Suggestions ...... 4-22

4 Stockade Assembly

Last Revised: 08/19/19

4 Assembling Your Stockade Corner Log System

DIY Log Cabin offers a variety of popular log styles with several corner detail choices. Each style requires slightly different starting and log erection IMPORTANT! techniques. The style discussed here will be DIY's stockade style log home. Please follow directions carefully. Time spent in Log placement STACK ELEVATIONS AND ASSEMBLY OVERLAYS (Fig. careful preparation will 4-1) are furnished with your final plans at delivery. FOLLOW THESE greatly reduce the actual INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY! These layouts guide you or your builder to time you spend in every log in your package and its location in the wall. Read all instructions construction and greatly BEFORE starting assembly. The bundle sheet tells you where logs were reduce the risk of costly packaged for delivery (bundle #), and will assist you in locating logs during mistakes. erection.

12 24 12 48 60 10 72 10 84 96 108 120 48 48 54 A 54 STACK LOG GABLES PRIOR TO 60 Win dow 60 FRAMING ROOF AND TRIM ON 3050 66 66 SITE BY OTHERS (TYPICAL) 72 72 84 84 90 64" 90 96 96 102 102 108 4 2 " 108 114 114 120 120 108 78 114 48 168 96 132 150 42 102 138 96 96 132 120 90 126 144 66 90 SC12,36,60 96 S C12,36,60,84 84 SC12,36,60 126F 126 108F 126 54 156 72F 150 54F 60 A 150 A 42 72F W in do w 150 Windo w 54F 60 3050 150 3050 42 72F 150 54F 60 150 42 72F 64" 150 64" 54F 60 150 42 72F 150 54F 60 42 " 150 4 2 " 42 72F 150 54F 60 150 42 42F 96 96 126F 114 78 144 96TFB 96B 66B 48B 54FB

5'-0" 3'-6" 12'-6" 3'-6" 3'-6"

SLH 28'-0"

Right elevation (Outside view) Wall 6

Figure 4-1 Log Assembly Overlay Example

With your foundation and subfloor completed, square and level (and any openings in the deck covered), and with tools and materials on the deck, you are ready to begin.

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4.1 Install Base Course To Foundation (Detail L-1-RR & L-1- RF) Base Course to Subfloor

IMPORTANT! 1. Place base logs (identified with a “B” designation) in the subfloor area for The sawn flat surface of the easy access. Most, if not all, of the base logs are bundled together in Bundle base log may vary, allowing #1. Refer to the bundle sheets to quickly find base logs. Base course logs potential variance in the are 5 5/8” high x 6” (approximate) width, with a flat surface sawn on the width of the base logs. For inside face of the log to provide for the construction of an electrical chase this reason, it is not (finished with furring strips and base trim by owner allowing for base trim recommended that the chalk variety). Base logs are set directly on the sub-floor, matching the center of line be snapped to match this the log wall to a chalk line marked on the subfloor. flat face. Always use the 2. Snap a chalk line 2" in from the edge of the subfloor around deck centerline reference. perimeter (Fig. 4-2). If the subfloor needs SLIGHT adjustment, you can alter the 2" dimensions slightly to make chalk lines square. This measurement allows the logs to overhang the foundation so that siding covering the perimeter sill will match correctly. (The ¾” T&G subfloor should be flush with the outermost edge of the perimeter sill.)

Figure 4-2 Layout Using Chalk Line

3. Position Logs : First, measure and mark the base logs to reflect the centerline of the log wall. Measuring from the exterior crown (top) of the base log, put a pencil mark at 3¾” and extend it down to the bottom of the log using a carpenter’s square (Figure 4-3). Then, beginning at the front door, lay the base logs over the chalk line, aligned with the centerline mark. Move clockwise around the building perimeter, from left to right following the numbering on the log assembly overlays. Be sure locations of all door and fireplace openings are according to final plans. (It is possible to accidentally reverse a wall.) At door openings, use the top, or header portion of the door buck, as a spacer to insure correct spacing for base logs. Check the length of buck headers to be sure they are cut to the exact width of the door opening. (See Section 4.2 on page 4-8 after the First Course: “Install Door Bucks”).

4. Check Straightness : Stretch a string line between nails driven into the tops of the logs at either end of the wall (Fig.4-4). Use the string as a guide to assure that the log course is perfectly straight. If the logs have been positioned correctly and the subfloor is accurate, the base course should overhang the edge of the subfloor as shown in Fig. 4- 3. 5. Apply Sealant : Once you have verified that the base log course is accurately placed, move the base logs aside and apply construction adhesive between the subfloor and base log course to create a weather tight joint (Fig. 4-5). Apply 2 continuous beads at approximately 1” and 3” from the edge of the subfloor on both sides of the chalk line. Check for square and straightness, then set base logs back into their final position.

Figure 4-3 Setting the Base Course

Figure 4-4 Checking Straightness with a String Line

6. Toenail Joints : Toenail the logs together with 2-16d galvanized nails to tighten each butt joint and corner, being careful to avoid any log movement (Detail L-6, Pg. 4-36). The log overhang should be uniform all around the perimeter (see Fig. 4-3).

Figure 4-5 Applying Sealant

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7. Install LogHog™ Fasteners : With the base logs sealed and in proper IMPORTANT! location, install LogHog™ fasteners in the base course and countersink heads Base log LogHog™ (screw down until tops of fastener heads are slightly below log surface) using fasteners should socket provided. Typical placement specifies 2 fasteners at each butt joint penetrate into triple and corner (Figures 4-5 & 4-7). This means that logs 24” or less in length 2x10 perimeter sill. should have at least four fasteners. Additional LogHog™ fasteners are In the unlikely event positioned every 36" on center and staggered, or altered from inside to that a log should outside of log (Figure 4-5). For logs over 24” but less than 72” in length, 2 need to be removed, fasteners staggered in the center third of the log are recommended (minimum (maybe the wrong of six fasteners). (Detail L-5, Pg. 4-33) log was fastened in by accident), the LogHog™ fasteners can be removed by reversing your drill and removing them.

Figure 4-5 Setting LogHog Fasteners in Base Course When fastening the logs, alternate sides of the log when installing the fasteners. Fastening completely down one side first will tighten that side but may create a gap on the other side that does not pull completely together. This results in a log that is not seated flat. Left uncorrected, successive courses of log will tend to roll, and it will be difficult to bring the wall back plumb. When detected early, shims or washers may be used to lift one side of a single course to correct roll, but this is not recommended as a common practice.

8. Install Dowel Pins : After all LogHog™ fasteners have been installed and tightened, drill 1” holes approximately 6" deep (stack height of one log) at each butt joint (Figure 4-4) using a 1” wood drill bit (NOT SUPPLIED). Figure 4-4 Drilling at Butt Clean away sawdust, fill 1/4 to 1/3 with caulk, and hand press dowel pins Joint for Dowel Pin into each hole so that the top of the dowel is slightly lower than the top of the logs (Detail L-6, Pg. 4-34).

9. Apply Foam Gasket : After all LogHog™ fasteners and dowel pins have been installed, apply a row of 3/8"x1/2” foam gasket in the counter bead groove on top of the log (Fig. 4-6). The adhesive-backed, closed-cell, polyurethane foam gasket is provided in boxes of 25’ rolls. Remove the paper backing and apply with adhesive face down in the middle of the groove. When ending a roll, do not stack the overlapping ends of the gasket to create a thicker foam seal; rather, splice the gasket to insure a consistent seal. 10. Corner Adjustments: Slight adjustments can be made at the corner of the log wall if you plan for it. Note (Figure 4-7 below) that the notch in the passing log at the corner is mortised to a 3- 7/8” depth, but the centerline groove of the same log is at 3-3/4”. The log that will be placed into this notch is length cut to be placed to the centerline of the passing log – but do not shove the log tight to the back of the notch if adjustment is needed. Take advantage of this corner joint as needed on each course to adjust 1/8” at each corner, or 1/4” over the length of the entire wall. Figure 4-6 Installing Foam Gasket

Figure 4-7 Use the corner to make adjustments.

11. Install Door Bucks : (See Section 4.2; “Installing Door Bucks”) You are now ready for the second course.

4.2 Window & Door Bucks (Details L-40, L-41 & L-75) DIY furnishes lumber for window and door bucks. Bucks are noted on the shipping list and should be located before starting log wall assembly. Most buck material is cut to length and very close to the same width as the logs so the bucks can be used as an aide to align the logs as they are stacked (always check inside of log stack for plumb in case of variations in buck material). Refer to the log assembly overlays for proper placement of the bucks.

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Pre-assemble door and window bucks according to Details L-40, L-41 & L-75. Note: Note that the horizontal buck pieces are cut to the exact width of the door or Set aside window window opening. Assemble bucks using galvanized 16d nails (not provided in bucks until the the package). You may want to temporarily brace the buck by nailing a piece of walls reach lumber diagonally across it to insure that the buck assembly remains square. window height. Install door bucks Installing Door Bucks before beginning Install and nail door bucks to base logs in the appropriate door openings in the the second course. first course. Before securing the buck to the first course with two galvanized 16d nails through vertical slots in buck and do not countersink, brace it securely to subfloor using 2x4 wood straps (Fig 4-8). Make sure bucks are plumb and square. Bracing door bucks will allow you to use the bucks as guides when installing subsequent courses. As you install additional courses, fasten through vertical slots in the buck to those logs and do not countersink, also using galvanized 16d nails.

IMPORTANT! It is important that there are nails through the verical slots in the side bucks, and do not countersink, to insure that the logs and openings remain flush during the settling of the new home. This allows the bucks to perform a major function in keeping the log ends aligned at the openings. All log ends butting up to window and door bucks also require two log hogs into log below at each course to keep the wall in proper alignment.

Figure 4-8 Typical buck installation with braces

4.3 Install Wall Courses Locate the second course logs using the bundle sheets and log overlays. Log number designation is based on the actual length of the log (in inches). Be certain to locate the fasteners in the subsequent log courses such that they will not hit fasteners set in the previous log. Start with the front wall and lay up one course at a time using the same procedures as for the first course. Carefully follow the stack elevations with each course. Follow these basic steps for each log course: 1. Inspect each log for any wood chips, mud, etc., and clean. 2. Check each course for plumb, level, and proper alignment. Remember to use at least a 4’ level to be certain the courses are aligned and plumb. 3. Install LogHog™ fasteners. 4. Drill and install dowel pins at all butt joints. 5. Apply 3/8”x1/2” foam gasket tape between each course.

Keep Walls and Corners Plumb As each new course is added, check frequently with a 4’ level to be sure the wall remains plumb (Fig. 4-9). This must be done with a level; a framing square or straightedge alone is insufficient. Logs can be gradually pushed or rolled out enough to cause problems later. With each uncorrected course, the problem gets more serious. Make a habit of checking with a level frequently.

If walls do not remain plumb, the house will get out-of-square. This can produce serious (and expensive) consequences when framing the roof and interior partitions. As an aid to insuring square corners, you can erect a straight board at each corner. Make sure it is plumb and brace it to the deck. This will serve as a guide in setting corner logs.

NOTE! Be careful to check Stack Elevations for the exact location for each size window. Windows of different height will not rest on the same course.

NOTE: Be sure door and window openings do not change measurement over succeeding courses. Opening must be square and plumb.

Figure 4-9 Checking Plumb

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NOTE: Installing Window Bucks Field verify all door As you reach a course of logs that will support windows (as noted on the log and window rough assembly overlays), set the appropriate window bucks in position to use as opening widths when spacers (do not secure until after the first window course is completed). After the stacking logs. first window course is completed, install and nail all window bucks through slots Openings may need to and do not countersink nail heads. Brace securely back down to the subfloor after be adjusted by either insuring that the buck is plumb. reducing, deleting, or adding door and Stacking Identical Logs window bucks, or logs may need to be cut. Logs of the same length and designation that are located between window and door bucks may be installed as a group to speed assembly (Fig. 4-10). Use bucks DIY Log Cabins takes to align log courses. It is essential that bucks be securely braced to the subfloor extreme care in pre-cut before attaching logs. openings, but it is the responsibility of the Don't forget to keep checking plumb to keep logs from rolling out! It is nearly owner/contractor to impossible to remove a bow that was built into a wall as it was assembled. check and adjust openings or bucks, if required, when building 132 96 108 39 the log walls. 42 150 126 57 150 114 111 108 168 99 138 48 84 21 186 A 84 A 21 78 48 60 Window 84 Window 21 60 126 3050 84 3050 21 114 72 84 21 144 42 84 21

102 84 64" 84 64" 21 114 84 21 42 144 84 21 186 42" 84 42" 21 66 78 42 84 21 186 84 21 96 174 105 120 138 117 72B 72B 60B 84B 87B

15'-6" 3'-6" 7'-0" 3'-6" 1'-9"

31'-3"

Left elevation (Outside view) Wall 13

Figure 4-10 Stacking Identical Logs

IMPORTANT! We cannot overemphasize the necessity of checking measurements and keeping walls plumb and level as you build your log home. This is the key to success. Measure the heights of openings with each course. Sometimes logs are not fastened down as tight at corners as in other parts of the course.Over several courses this can create small gaps that can cause the wall to “grow,” causing opening heights to differ slightly.Keep courses LEVEL as you go. Make any necessary height corrections with each course; don’t allow errors to accumulate.

4.4 Second Floor Girder Installation When installing the 6x8 Round/Round log beam system for your second floor (used in both Round/Round and Round/Flat Stockade Style homes), the double girder beams and floor beams are pre-notched into the exterior log wall and cut to length at our manufacturing plant. However, minor on-site adjustments may be required to insure exact fit.

In two story buildings, the top of the second floor girder will be flush with the top of the 18 th log course. Southland's girder is made of DOUBLE (2) log courses (Details L-51-RR Thru L-55-RF) to form a strong beam system. The bottom course is typically installed in the pre-notched mortise in the interior side of the 16th log course. It is supported on the interior by 6x8 log posts included as part of the standard package. Refer to your final plans and log assembly overlays for correct support post and girder locations.

The following procedure is an effective method to insure proper installation of the girder: 1. With log walls in place and plumb, locate and bring to the subfloor all 16th course logs, designated girder beams, and support posts (typically marked 105P). Install the 16th course around the inside perimeter of the exterior walls according to the steps previously described. 2. After the 16th course exterior wall logs are in place, lift up and set the 16th course girder logs into the precut interior side notches in the wall logs. Then rest the other end of the bottom girder log on vertical SUPPORT POSTS set in the locations designated in your final plans. Check all dimensions and level before securing beams. Measure to the bottom of the girder at the log wall (at the notch) and cut the support post to match. Any butt joints (or breaks) in the bottom course of the girder should fall directly over the CENTER LINE of correctly placed support posts (Fig. 4-11). Use two LogHog™ fasteners at girder end to fasten girder to support post. Figure 4-11 Post 3. Locate the screw jack where post will be installed on floor. Position and Supporting Log Girder plumb posts and then connect them securely to the screw jack. Brace posts to the subfloor and/or exterior wall until second floor joists are completely installed. 4. After the 16th course is installed, securely fasten girder log to exterior log wall with two (2) LogHog™ fasteners at interior notches. 5. Use the log assembly overlay to locate and install the 17th log girder NOTE! course according to the same procedures as for the 16th course. The 17th course 6. Before adding second floor joists, make sure the girder is square and level. includes the porch lintel If a log wall has been pushed out slightly during construction, a logs. These should be "come-a-long" can be used to pull it back in. Make sure all LogHog™ temporarily BRACED fasteners are installed tightly so lintels can’t shift. Add fasteners if until you are ready to necessary to insure positive connection. finish your porch.

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4.5 Second Floor Beams After your second floor girders are installed, supported, and fastened, you can install the second floor beams. The second floor beams are typically installed in the 18th course. Always consult your LOG ASSEMBLY OVERLAYS and final plans for exact beam locations for your project. (Fig. 4-12)

IMPORTANT! Locate and install the 18th log course around the perimeter of the exterior log If your stockade style wall. After you have completed this step, you are ready to install your second DIY Log Cabin does not floor beams. include a second floor lintel and beam system, your log package will still have 18 courses. If your home has a porch, the porch lintel logs are part of the 17th course. Consult your final plans for the conventional floor and ceiling construction on your building.

Figure 4-12 Typical Second Floor Beam System Plan

1. Start installing beams from one end of the house. Check each beam for any IMPORTANT! slight crown (a natural deflection or bow common to longer wood products). Be sure that the notched Floor beams with a crown should be positioned with the crown UP. The logs (the logs that will finished weight of your floor should remove the slight deflection over time. receive the beams) are placed so that the 2. Insert one end of the beam into the precut notch located in the exterior log notches are facing INTO wall. Place the other end of the beam on top of the 17th course double lintel. your building. Repeat this procedure until all beams are installed and parallel with each other. Check for square and level before fastening into place. If beams are not completely level, it may be necessary to shim slightly. Install hardwood or metal shims as required under beams. Installation of shims must be done WIRING NOTE! NEATLY since they may be exposed when your home is finished. If you know where 3. Once the beam system is square, level, and parallel, install (2) 9" LogHog wiring should be fasteners at each joist intersection with the exterior log wall. Fasten each pair installed for ceiling of butting beams over lintels and girders according to your log assembly lights, this is a good time details. to route or kerf a notch on the top of joists and If your building has a second floor, the face of the second floor base course will drill to install accommodate floor decking. Refer to the second floor base course detail (Detail preliminary wiring L-51). BEFORE DECKING IS

INSTALLED. 4.6 Temporary Second Floor Decking It is common practice to use the roof sheathing (decking) as a temporary working surface over the second floor beam system. This also makes it available for easy placement on the roof after roof framing is complete.

1. Lay the roof sheathing directly over the beams prior to installation of the decking. Caution: Do not apply significant loads (e.g., bundles of logs or lumber) on the beam system.

4.7 Log Gable Ends IMPORTANT! Construct gable ends after completing log walls, double lintels and beam Setting up scaffolding system. DIY Log Cabins typically include full log gables to the ceiling line. is common practice for For example, a cathedral ceiling where the ceiling follows the slope of the building log gable rafters (or scissor truss) would have a log gable full height. A vaulted ceiling, ends. Build sufficient where there is a flat ceiling above the second floor (usually at 8-feet), would support to hold the have a full log gable end up to the 8' ceiling. Typically, the objective is to use weight of the logs as full logs at gable ends to provide superior insulation and the “log look” from they are brought up in the interior view of your gable ends. preparation for placement. Lumber Refer to your inventory list, stack elevations, and log details to determine the required in scaffolding method of gable end construction for your building. Be sure to read over and as walk boards is not become familiar with the procedures suggested here and in your final plans included in your log detail sections before beginning gable end construction. home package. How to Install Log Gable Ends Storing the gable logs on the beam system is 1. Mark the EXACT MIDPOINT of your building with a pencil or chalk line not recommended. on the top of the last course at each gable end. This should be the center of the gable end wall. On gambrel buildings (barn style roof), refer to the final plans for location of additional roofline breaks (See Pages 5-7 & 5-8, Sect. #5). Gable end logs are shipped extra long with square-cut ends to allow for on-site trimming to exact roof pitch. Do not attempt to cut angles until BRACING walls are complete. SAFEGUARD! 2. Position the first course of gable end logs according to centerline mark. Be It is important to sure the log course is perfectly CENTERED over this mark. Then follow the adequately brace gable same fastening, and sealing procedures used for your wall logs. Be sure that ends until ridge beam all log joints are toenailed and tight before installing LogHog™ fasteners. and roof decking have been installed. 3. With the first gable end course installed, fully erect all remaining gable end Support the gable end logs. When fastening log ends, be careful to avoid placing fasteners at end wall securely with 2x4 locations that will be trimmed later, to avoid hitting fasteners with your saw bracing inside and blade. Check for plumb and level as you progress up the gable end. outside (not provided) TO PREVENT ANY Cutting Log Gable Ends (Detail L-30) GABLE END MOVEMENT 1. After gable ends are completed and braced, locate two pieces of the material DURING to be used for your rafters. Measure and cut the birdsmouth notch where the CONSTRUCTION. rafter will bear on the sidewalls. Use these two rafters to locate the ridgeboard. 2. Set the rafters in place against the log gable end such that the untrimmed ends cross at the ridge point. Mark the ridge location so that the logs can be notched horizontally (minimum 1” deep) to receive the end of the ridgeboard. Before notching the logs, check the height marked on the wall to the required ridge height on your final plans. © 2019 DIY Log Cabins, LLC 4-13

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3. Set one end of the ridgeboard in the notch and brace the other end to the SAFETY NOTE! second floor temporarily while rafters are being installed. Check your final Just as with log gable plans for rafter installation specifications. ends, temporary bracing of 4. Next, trim the rafters (See Section 5.2 Rafter Systems) on each side of the conventional gable ridgeboard and install beside the log gable end wall. These rafters provide a end wall will be cutting guide for log end trimming to assure correct roof pitch alignment. required until your 5. Check and recheck all height dimensions. Then, using a freshly sharpened walls are secured by chain saw, carefully cut gable end logs to match the roof pitch of your roof construction. building. After cutting gable ends, toenail log ends with 16d nails to insure a tight fit.

4.8 Installing Doors and Windows With the roof and log package completed, windows and doors may be installed to get your house “closed-in”. Be sure to dust or clean window and door units as necessary to prepare for installation.

Preparations Important! Before installation, wood windows and doors should be painted, stained, or Your DIY logs are sealed/treated to provide proper wood protection in accordance with the kiln-dried to remove manufacturer's specifications and to avoid moisture damage. Be sure that all excess moisture. wood areas including ends and sides are completely protected. However, slight shrinkage may still Make sure bucks are level, plumb, square, and nailed in place through slots into occur.Your blueprint log ends at all window and door openings. If you haven’t already, use a quality details call for a caulk to seal any airspaces between window bucks and log walls. Staple or tack space over doors and down a continuous layer of #30 felt "flashing" along window bucks and sill as windows to allow for shown in details BEFORE installing window unit. Bend felt at a 90° angle so that any settlement a section of the felt will be covered by wood trim (Detail L-40 & L-41, pgs. 4- resulting from any 26,4-27). minor shrinkage. Refer to your construction details for installation and flashing procedures. Be sure that window and door units are right side up, closed, and securely latched.

Saw a kerf (groove) in the 16th log course above the opening to accept the drip cap flashing (to be installed later).

Completely remove all sawdust and wood chips from openings.

Installing the Window (L-40)

1. Carefully hand position window in opening from the exterior. Install wood shims between window frame and buck as necessary to plumb and level the unit. Make sure window is shimmed where top sash and bottom sash meet. Use a 10d galvanized finish nail to fasten through the face of the window and into the window buck. Be careful not to damage trim face with hammer. (Countersink all nail heads.)

2. BEFORE adding interior finish trim, thoroughly fill any open pockets around the window. Loose insulation, air conditioning foam gasket, or expanding foam sealant/insulation can be used. When using “foam-in-a- can” products, please READ AND FOLLOW the sealant manufacturer's application instructions THOROUGHLY as some may not be appropriate for this application. Do not pack the openings so much that the side jambs are put under any pressure. 3. Place all interior window trim (not provided) according to details. 4. Insert the metal drip cap in the kerf that was previously sawed in the log over window and door units. Run a bead of caulk along the kerf before inserting the drip cap, then be sure there is a solid bead of caulk at the top edge where the wood meets the metal. Be sure to run the drip cap slightly beyond the outside edges of the exterior trim; do not limit the flashing to just over the window or door. 5. Carefully apply a continuous bead of caulk to weatherproof around all exterior window trim AND along the top of the drip cap/kerf per window and door installation details.

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Figure 4.14 Edge view of 1x2 Trim

Dado a notch to receive a 1x2 at the edge of the door/window trim. This 1x2 seals the scallop effect from the crown of the log to the contact point. Apply caulk in the notch.

Exterior Doors (L-41) Installation of a pre-hung exterior door unit is similar to windows. Kerf the log for the drip cap. Install felt flashing trim and drip cap as for windows. 1. Carefully insert exterior door unit in log opening from the interior. The door jamb should be flush on the interior side. Shim as necessary to level and plumb frame. Fill any voids and gaps around shims as described for windows BEFORE installing wood trim. 2. Nail through door casing into door buck using 10d galvanized finish nails. Countersink all nail heads to complete installation.

4.9 Electrical Considerations IMPORTANT! Your final set of plans includes an electrical layout. Be sure to have your Don't cut corners electrician review these and follow the layout. All DIY Log Cabins have flat- here! All electrical faced or grooved base logs to facilitate electrical installation. For flat-faced base installation should logs attach two spacer strips and finish with a baseboard (Fig. 4-13). Wiring and be in compliance electrical boxes may be installed along this horizontal chase. Wiring for second with your local stories can be run through interior partitions and installed as on the first floor. building code Refer to your base course details for wiring chase construction. provisions and regulations. These should take priority over our specifications. Consult your electrical contractor and local building code official when modifying your electrical plan. Use a licensed electrician to insure compliance with local building codes Figure 4-13 Typical Wire Chase and applicable code standards. Your electrical plan is designed to locate as many electric switch boxes as possible on INTERIOR WALLS. Place boxes in convenient locations according to actual door swings. Exterior switch wiring, such as for outside lighting , is typically concealed behind wood door bucks as follows: NOTE! To expedite 1. Saw a kerf into the face of exposed horizontal log ends and run wire up to the installation of required height. electrical 2. Drill a hole horizontally to where the box will be placed. Chisel a hole in receptacles and exterior log face sufficient in size for placement of the switch box. switches in a log home, locate as 3. Kerf the logs to fixture height and drill horizontally to the outside light many as possible fixture box to install an outside door light. ON INTERIOR 4. Ceiling light fixtures and second floor wiring may require kerfing and setting WALLS. wire in joists before placing second floor decking, that will conceal wiring. If you are careful with fastener placement when fastening the decking to the beam joist, there is no need for any wire protection device. 5. Interior partitions are wired exactly like a conventional house. The major difference in wiring a log home is in the log walls.

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4.10 Log Caulking (Interior & Exterior) DIY Log Cabins furnishes acrylic latex caulking for interior and exterior LOG IMPORTANT! WALLS. Either side can be caulked first. Where to start For best results, apply may depend on factors such as weather and construction progress. In addition, caulk BEFORE using caulk is supplied for all exterior log siding seams to insure a consistent any wood stains, appearance. sealers, and oil treatment on logs. DIY’s standard caulking is tan and has been selected to match DIY’s natural Make sure the log wood tones. Apply it to all horizontal and vertical seams to include butt joints, surface is free from around windows and doors, and at the kerf for flashing over openings, etc. dirt, dust, mold, mildew, or oil. Applying Caulk Apply caulk according to manufacturer's application instructions. Please THOROUGHLY READ AND FOLLOW the instructions on the packaging label.

Make sure log surface is free from dirt, dust, mold, mildew, and oil. Cleaning wall surfaces with a generous application of a 4 oz. solution of Oxalic Acid Crystals (a common deck cleaner sold at most home supply stores) to 1 gallon of water, applied with a garden pump sprayer, will do a great job cleaning the logs and is the preferred method of log surface preparation for the WOODguard™ wood preservative supplied with your log home package. Follow the instructions on the packaging for whatever product you select to clean your logs. Before proceeding with applying preservatives and finishes, rinse all cleaned surfaces thoroughly from top to bottom with a low-pressure (<500 PSI) high water volume sprayer held one foot from the log surface, to be sure they are completely free of any cleaning solution. Let surface dry completely before applying wood preservative; approximately 3 days without rain.

For best results, apply caulk BEFORE using any wood stains, sealers, and oil treatment on logs.

Here are some additional suggestions for a beautiful caulking job: 1. Start in some hidden location (behind kitchen cabinets or in closets) to check the tone and practice your application techniques. Complete all caulking before any portion of the log wall is covered (e.g., by kitchen cabinets or trim). 2. Starting at the top of one end of the building, run a continuous 1/4" bead of caulking between ALL horizontal log joints and around the corners throughout the building. Follow the manufacturer's application instructions for proper application, clean-up, and precautions.

Figure 4-14 Angling the caulking gun at about a 45 o angle makes application easier and faster.

3. Tool the caulking to a slight concave appearance, such that it is pressed into the joints between the logs. The width of the caulking may vary due to the slight variation in log surfaces, but ideally, the width of the caulking after tooling is about 3/8”. This would provide about a ¼” thick bead, providing good contact with both the upper and lower log.

Figure 4-15 Tooling the caulk.

4. Smooth and blend the new caulking to match the surrounding areas. Some customers use a finger covered with dampened bed sheet material to clean up and straighten out any mistakes. 5. Take care to insure a good and complete seal between logs. Try to maintain a continuous and consistent bead. Avoid touching the caulk surface for at least two hours.

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6. Clean up excess caulk with soap and water immediately. If any caulk falls on the floor or onto a log, clean with water before it cures. 7. Inspect each log course for any missed locations. 8. When finished, clean all tools with soap and water. Seal and store cartridges when not in use.

Figure 4-16 Caulking a Stockade Corner Log

Figure 4-17 Tooling the caulk in a Stockade Corner

Figure 4-18 Finished caulk joint.

4.11 Exterior & Interior Wood Preservative Important!

Do not apply an Your package contains enough wood preservative for your first treatment. exterior wood finish

to interior log Exterior Wood Preservative Application surface s. DIY recommends coating the exterior of the house with an exterior wood finish upon the completion of construction, or within one hundred and twenty (120) days after delivery of materials, whichever comes first. Try to use all of the material provided on logs that are as dry as possible (allow 72 hours after power washing walls or after a driving rain). Apply ONLY ONE soaking coat.

DIY recommends additional applications of an exterior wood finish pursuant to the manufacturer’s specifications applicable to the wood finish being used.

Before applying the exterior finish, recheck the wood surfaces for any mildew that may have appeared (or returned) since you prepared the logs for caulk, and clean it appropriately again by the same process. Refer to the section on Applying Caulk.

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instructions. After initial application of your wood preservative, wait at least 30 days before attempting to caulk any missed areas.

Interior Wood Preservative Application DIY also provides a quality interor wood preservative. Woodguard ITF TM is a clear, water based, low luster, satin sheen finish designed to highlight the wood grain, and protect against water and sun damage. Your package contains enough interior wood preservative to finish the log wall interior of your home.

Log walls should be cleaned, caulked (if applicable), and prepared, prior to the application of the interior finish. A clean, dry surface is required for optimum beauty and mildew resistance. The transparent finish can be tinted with universal or water-based pigments by qualified paint store personel. It is recommended that the interior finish be applied within the same time frames listed in the exterior wood preservative section.

Additional Suggestions

Cleaning your logs will remove mold and mildew, but it can come back within a few days. Prepare and plan your schedule accordingly. Your wood preservative will control FUTURE mold and mildew.

If you are building in a high humidity area (under a heavy canopy of trees, near a body of water, etc.) and are having trouble staying ahead of the mildew, you can add a mildew booster to your wood preservative. ADD-2™ and M-1™ are recommended and are available at most hardware or paint stores. Future wood preservative treatments should not need additional “booster”. The preservative soaks into your logs and will be present deep in the cellulose after your next scheduled maintenance treatment. (See section 8 on Maintenance)

Your exterior wood preservative can be tinted to a wide range of natural wood tone colors. All DIY homes are provided with Honey 2000, which is a standard honey type color.

Congratulations! This completes the exterior of your DIY Log Cabin!

Detail L-1-RR Base Course to Subfloor

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Detail L-1-RF Base Course to Subfloor

Detail L-30-TYP Log Gable End Cut at Roofline

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Detail L-40-RR Typical Window Opening in Log Wall

Detail L-41-RR Typical Door Opening in Log Wall

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Detail L-51-RR Second Floor Beam System at Gable End Wall

Detail L-52-RR Beams Meeting Over Girder

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Detail L-54-RR Beams Cantilevered Over Girder

Detail L-55-RR Second Floor Beam System at Framed Gable End Wall

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Detail L-55-RF Second Floor Beam System at Framed Gable End Wall

Detail L-5-RR Typical Horizontal Joint

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Detail L-6-RR Typical Butt Joint

Detail L-7-RR Typical Stockade Corner

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Detail L-79-RR Typical Stockade Jack Detail for Interior Frame Wall

Detail L-75-RR Typical Stockade Window / Door Buck Detail