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Bangladeshi Food Voices from Diaspora: Narratives of Six Case Studies from the UK

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Bangladeshi Food Voices from Diaspora: Narratives of Six Case Studies from the UK Bangladeshi Food Voices from Diaspora: Narratives of Six Case Studies from the UK, USA and Hungary By Shehreen Ataur Khan Submitted to Central European University – Department of Gender Studies In partial fulfilment for the ERASMUS MUNDUS MA in Women’s and Gender Studies (GEMMA) Main supervisor: Nadia Jones-Gailani, PhD (Central European University) Second reader: Adelina Sanchez Espinosa, PhD (University of Granada) CEU eTD Collection Budapest 2019 Bangladeshi Food Voices from Diaspora: Narratives of Six Case Studies from the UK, USA and Hungary By Shehreen Ataur Khan Submitted to Central European University – Department of Gender Studies In partial fulfilment for the ERASMUS MUNDUS MA in Women’s and Gender Studies (GEMMA) Main supervisor: Nadia Jones-Gailani, PhD (Central European University) Second reader: Adelina Sanchez Espinosa, PhD (University of Granada) CEU eTD Collection Abstract This thesis is focused on Bangladeshi culinary representations in the diaspora. The purpose of this research is to gain a better understanding of the Bangladeshi migrants who are involved in the culinary industry. I joined these two strands together and formed the kernel of my dissertation, which is to examine the layers of Bangladeshi migrant identities that are orchestrated through their culinary expressions in diaspora. My dissertation is based on six case studies from the UK, USA, and Hungary. Because of the diverse backgrounds of the case studies, there was an eclectic mix in their culinary projects, and I have analyzed them through the theoretical lens of food histories, food narratives, postcolonial studies, migrant identifies, and oral history. This research reveals how their culinary projects are coming to terms with a new reality, an expression of their hybrid identity, and at the same time, celebrating the connection with their homelands. Keywords: Bangladeshi Cuisine-Diasporic Identity-Cookbook- Authenticity- Memory Making- Oral History CEU eTD Collection iii Reseña Esta tesis se ocupa de las representaciones culinarias bangladesíes en la diáspora. El propósito de esta investigación es adquirir un mejor conocimiento de los migrantes bangladesíes involucrados en la industria culinaria. Estas dos dimensiones son el núcleo de esta disertación que examina la complejidad de las identidades migrantes bangladesíes que se forman a través de expresiones culinarias en la diáspora. Esta investigación está basada en seis casos de estudio en el Reino Unido, los Estados Unidos y Hungría. Estos casos representan, debido a la diversidad de sus contextos, una combinación ecléctica de proyectos culinarios y por ello han sido analizados a través de las perspectivas teóricas que brindan las historias de la comida, las narrativas de la comida, los estudios poscoloniales, las identidades migrantes y la historia oral. Este análisis revela cómo estos proyectos culinarios responden a una nueva realidad, siendo una expresión de su identidad híbrida, al tiempo que una celebración de la conexión con sus patrias. Palabras claves: Cocina bangladesí, Identidad diaspórica, Libro de cocina, Autenticidad, Construcción de memoria, Historia oral CEU eTD Collection iv Declaration of Original Content I hereby declare that this thesis is the result of original research; it contains no materials accepted for any other degree in any other institution and no materials previously written and/or published by another person, except where appropriate acknowledgment is made in the form of bibliographical reference. I further declare that the following word count for this thesis are accurate: Body of thesis (all chapters excluding notes, references, appendices, etc.): 31, 312 words Entire manuscript: 36,493 words Signed: Shehreen Ataur Khan CEU eTD Collection v Acknowledgment Gratitude to my supervisor, Nadia Jones Gailani, without whom I wouldn’t even know that there is an entire horizon of food studies, waiting to be explored! You helped me to find my inspiration and belonging. You are gifted with a magic wand that can transform a blank mind into a repository of narratives and wonderful ideas. Thank you for your guidance and constant support at every step of this thesis, without you, it would go nowhere! Gratitude to my second reader, Adelina Sanchez Espinosa, for being the source of courage and inspiration when I was in Granada. Thank you, Professor Jasmina Lukic, for being there from the day I started my journey with GEMMA. Thank you, Tek Jung Mahat, for letting me know about this amazing world of Erasmus Scholarship. Gratitude to all my interviewees, who graciously agreed to be a part of this project and have been amazingly cooperative throughout the entire process of writing! Glenda, you have been the blessing in the entire process of writing, words are not enough to describe your support! Fatima, Jorge, Rebecca, thank you for never abandoning me amidst all sorts of mess, and always rescue me with your love, knowledge and sense of humor. Thank you to the GEMMA squad of Budapest- Jona, Katya, Saima, and our honorary GEMMA member, Max. All of you were the source of joy, and companions of my panic attacks in Budapest, thank you for being there. Thank you to all who were present in the Thesis Workshop! You guys are in one of my chapters now. Gratitude to the two people who have been my rock since 2015. Thank you for patiently listening to all my ranting, distress, despair, and nonstop blabbering for hours and hours. Thank you for taking care of maa. Thank you for holding her strong when I was not there. Abrar and Shagar, I can’t tell how indebted I am to both of you. Lastly, to my best friend, you are literally the reason for where I am right now and writing this acknowledgment. From the moment you conceived, you have been protecting me from the world. You have sacrificed everything for me, I wish I could give you the life you really deserve! I am not going to CEU eTD Collection write anything to you because then it would be twice the length of my current thesis, which I am not allowed to do here. I just want to say I owe you my life, maa. vi Dedication To My Mother Who Has Sacrificed Her Own Wings So That I Could Fly CEU eTD Collection vii Table of Contents Abstract ........................................................................................................................................... iii Reseña ............................................................................................................................................. iv Declaration of Original Content.......................................................................................................v Acknowledgment ............................................................................................................................ vi Dedication ...................................................................................................................................... vii Introduction ................................................................................................................................... 11 Literature Review...................................................................................................................... 21 Chapter 1-Methodology ................................................................................................................ 30 Chapter 2 - Traveling Foods, Transnational Recipes and Diasporic Cookbooks: Constructing Identities across Borders ............................................................................................................... 40 2.1. Traveling Foods ................................................................................................................. 42 2.2. Phuchka and Korma and their Variations.......................................................................... 44 2.3. Diasporic Cookbooks, Transnational Recipes and their Function ..................................... 51 2.5. Diasporic Recipes and their Imagined Landscapes............................................................ 57 2.6. Cookbook as a Symbol of Diasporic Group Ties .............................................................. 59 Chapter 3- To be Bangladeshi or to be Indian: The Dilemma of Bangladeshi Food in a Migrant CEU eTD Collection Community.................................................................................................................................... 63 3.1. Menus, Names and the Quandary between ‘Bangladeshi’ and ‘Indian’............................ 64 3.2. Ignoring Bangladeshi Food and Choosing Indian Instead ................................................. 70 3.3. Constructing the Identity of Bangladeshi Cuisine without Restaurants ............................ 75 viii 3.4. Promoting ‘Authentic’ Bangladeshi Food Voices ............................................................. 79 Chapter 4- Authentic Migrant Food Voices from ‘In-Between’ Spaces and their Representation on Social Media ................................................................................................................................. 86 4.1. Identity Formation in the ‘In-Between’ Spaces through Foods ......................................... 87 4.2. Shaping Migrant Identity through Food Sharing and Memories of Food ......................... 89 4.3. Role of Migrant Women and Interior Décor: Tool for Inciting Authentic Identities ........ 93 4.4. Migrant Foodways Opens up Possibilities for Food Adventures ...................................... 97 4.5. Representing Hybridity through
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