INTERPARK MESSENGER

A VISITOR'S GUIDE TO YOUR NATIONAL PARK, MONUMENTS AND HISTORICAL AREAS

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these seven intriguing areas, which are managed by Centuries ago, Anasazi or prehistoric pueblo have deepened at Canyon de Chelly, alongside the the National Park Service in the vicinity of the vast peoples left behind the remarkable ruins of their once ancient ruins there. Navajo Indian Reservation... flourishing towns at Aztec, Chaco, Canyon de Chelly, El Malpais also offers a challenging view of Each of them features some facet of the story of and Navajo. These ancestral homes remain a vital volcanic events and their later importance for human the American Indian peoples of the Southwest. part of living cultures in the Southwest. At El Morro, settlement. This is canyon and mesa country, where the land later European arrivals also added their signatures These seven areas define some of the unique has been shaped by erosion and geologic uplift, by to the marks left by far earlier inhabitants. character of the American Southwest. As the respon­ volcanoes and by the people themselves. It is also Today at Hubbell Trading Post, a historic pattern sible agency, the National Park Service invites you land that has been traversed by traders and travellers of supply and demand on the Navajo Reservation to discover the opportunities at each of them during through the ages, into the present time. continues. The enduring traditions of Navajo culture your visit.

NAVAJO AZTEC RUINS NATIONAL NATIONAL MONUMENT MONUMENT

This Anasazi site is located on the out­ This picturesque monument near Tsegi skirts of Aztec, New Mexico. Ancestors Canyon, southwest of Kayenta, Arizona, of the modern Pueblo Indians, not the features remarkably well-preserved and Aztecs of Mexico, built multi-story intensively studied cliff ruins. These an­ pueblos and other buildings which com­ cient villages were built and occupied prise this settlement. over 700 years ago by members of the In 1934 noted Southwestern ar­ prehistoric Kayenta Anasazi culture. To­ chaeologist Earl Morris reconstructed the day, Navajo Indians raise sheep and cat­ Great Kiva, a partially subterranean tle in the canyons. ceremonial chamber which dominates the central plaza. See NAVAJO NAT'L. MON. on page 2 See AZTEC RUINS NAT'L MON. on page 7

CANYON DE CHELLY CHACO CULTURE NATIONAL NATIONAL MONUMENT HISTORICAL PARK Located in the heart of the Navajo Chaco Canyon, situated half-way bet­ Reservation, near Chinle, Arizona. The ween Thoreau and Farmington, New awesome beauty and spectacular Mexico, represents one of the most scenery of these canyons have been outstanding archaeological areas in the "home" to archaic hunters, Anasazi United States. By the 12th century, the farmers and Navajo herdsmen for over Anasazi of Chaco Canyon had reached 2,000 years. The diverse micro- cultural heights in architecture, social environments provide a fascinating blend organization, trade routes and communi­ of geology, archaeology and Southwest­ ty life rarely matched in pre-historic North ern history. America. See CANYON DE CHELLY NAT'L. MON. on page 4-5 See CHACO CULTURE NAT'L. HIST. PARK on page 6 W, HUBBELL EL MORRO EL MALPAIS TRADING POST NATIONAL NATIONAL NATIONAL HISTORIC MONUMENT MONUMENT SITE

Just outside of Ganado, Arizona, Hubbell Situated on the ancient trail between the "El Malpais," Spanish for "The Badlands," Trading Post is the oldest continually active pueblos of Zuni and Acoma, this massive mesa- is nestled between majestic ML Taylor and the trading post on the Navajo Reservation. point of sandstone, with its natural water basin, Zuni Mountains just south of Grants, New Mex­ Since 1878 when John Lorenzo Hubbell was a popular camp-site. ico. Known for its volcanic craters, ice caves and founded the business, the post has been a For centuries, the early Anasazi, and later extensive lava flows. crossroads of cultures, oftentimes the only Pueblo Indians, Spanish Conquistadores, Army The region is also rich in ancient Pueblo In­ link the Indians had with the White man's troopers, emigrants and settlers camped at the dian history and features a diverse ecosystem. world. The area is well known for its finely water hole and carved their inscriptions on the Portions of the area are administered by the woven Navajo rugs. base of the bluff. Bureau of Land Management.

See HUBBELL TRADING POST on page 3 See EL MORRO NAT'L. MON. on page 3 See EL MALPAIS NAT'L MON. on page 7 INTERPARK MESSENGER, 1992 Page 2 NAVAJO NATIONAL MONUMENT avajo National Monument is located west VISITOR CENTER Nof Kayenta, AZ, on the Navajo Indian Reservation (off U.S. Highway 160, 10 miles Late May — Sept. Oct. — mid-Dec, Mar. — Late May Mid-Dec. — Mar. north of the Black Mesa Junction on State 8:00 a.m.-6:00 p.m. 8:00 a.m.-5:00 p.m. 8:00 a.m.-4:30 p.m. Highway 564). (MDT) (MDT & MST) (MST) The picturesque monument was established Here, you may view authentic Anasazi and cards, and other items may be purchased at the in 1909, and features remarkably well-preserved Navajo Indian artifacts on exhibit or a schedul­ facility as well. and intensively studied cliff ruins. These ancient ed film on the Anasazi/Hisatsinom culture in the Park Rangers are on duty to share informa­ villages were built and occupied 700 years ago southwest. An orientation slide program is also tion about the monument or the area. A craft by members of the prehistoric Kayenta Anasazi available, on request. The "Family Home" ex­ store featuring handmade Southwestern Indian culture. hibit is a full scale replica of a typical household crafts is located in the visitor center. A pinon and juniper forest surrounds the built in the Kayenta Anasazi architectural style No entrance fees are required for visiting the visitor center at an elevation of 7300 feet above of the period. monument. The visitor center is open seven sea level. Summer temperatures often reach into Free tokens (tickets) for the Betatakin ruin tour days a week, except Thanksgiving, Christmas, the 90 degree range (F), but cool off pleasantly or backcountry permits for Keet Seel hiking or and New Year's Day. The building and restroom by evening. Afternoon thundershowers are com­ horse trips may be arranged here. Books, post­ facilities are all mobility accessible. mon in July and August, while snow and sub- freezing temperatures are likely during the winter months. TSEGI CANYON OVERLOOK IT IS IMPORTANT TO CALL FOR INFORMA­ TION PRIOR TO YOUR VISIT, SINCE TIMES SANDAL TRAIL This panoramic viewpoint shows the current extent of canyon cutting in the Tsegi Canyon AND SCHEDULES OFTEN CHANGE WITHOUT Open year-round during daylight hours, this system, and reveals several rock formations that NOTICE! self-guided, one-mile (roundtrip) rim trail leads have been exposed in the process. It is located During hot weather, by late June, this walk to an overlook for a breathtaking view of the a few steps from parking near the entrance to becomes quite arduous, as there is little shade scenic Betatakin ruin across the canyon, VA mile the monument boundary. ,• on the trail except at the ruin. Rain gear is recom­ away. Along the trail, wayside exhibits identify mended when summer thunderstorms occur dur­ plant uses among the Navajo, Hopi, and the BETATAKIN RUIN TOURS ing July and August. If you have heart or prehistoric Anasazi. Average walking time on the respiratory trouble, or are out of condition, the The Betatakin ruin exists in one of the more paved trail is 45 minutes (roundtrip). Binoculars high altitude, heat, and steep grade of the trail dramatic southwestern settings: its high-vaulted are recommended, although there is a telescope can make the trip difficult and should not be at­ alcove opens onto a red rock canyon, forested at the overlook. tempted. Dangerous rockfall from the ceiling of with aspen, fir and oak. The ranger-guided hik­ An old-style, "forked-stick" hogan, sweat the cave is sometimes possible and may Cause ing tour to the ruin follows a strenuous, 5-mile lodge, and historic buckboard wagon are abrupt changes in the tour schedule!: ;:: ,: featured with wayside signs at the Navajo roundtrip route, usually takes 5-6 hours, and is Homesite Exhibit, near the start of the Sandal equal in difficulty to a 700-foot descent into and CAMPING Trail. return from the Grand Canyon. Two quarts of A side trail diverts to the Betatakin Canyon water per person and sturdy shoes are recom­ Camping is also free at the monument, and is Overlook, which is part way down the head of mended for the tour. available on a first-come, first-served basis. Max- the canyon. From this vantage, you can ap­ Tours are limited to 24 people, on a first-come,: imum:$tay.is:{imited to 7 jStaysiThe main cam­ preciate how important the unique canyon en­ first-served basis. Each person interested in the pground features 30 sites (no hookups or vironment was for the Anasazi and for the pre­ hike must pick up their own ticket in person at showers), with one space reserved for mobility sent day Navajo. The ruin is not visible from this the visitor center, no sooner than the day of the impaired visitors. The comfort station offers run­ point, nor can one descend further than the tour. Advance reservations are not accepted. De­ ning, drinkable water and flush facilities. Vehicles overlook, due to hazardous rockfall potential mand for a spot on the hike is high, so ar­ larger than 25 feet in length are discouraged, due below. rive early! to limited passage through the campground. The tours are conducted once daily at 11:00 The smaller, overflow/group campground has KEET SEEL BACKCOUNTRY PERMITS a.m. (MDT), beginning in early May, and in­ chemical restrooms but no water. Group reser­ This large, remarkably preserved cliff dwell­ crease to twice daily by Memorial Day, at 9:00 vations may be booked for parties of at least 10, ing is located 8 miles (one-way) from the Visitor a.m. and 12:00 noon (MDT). After Labor Day, but no more than 30 people. Wood fires are not Center in the Tsegi Canyon backcountry. Since tours are again offered once daily until October. permitted at the monument. there is no road in the vicinity, it is only accessi­ ble by hiking or horseback trips, with an NPS backcountry permit from the monument. While hiking permits are free, horse-trips to Keet Seel are provided by a local Navajo family through the monument, and cost $50 per per­ son for the day-long outing. Those accustom­ ed to desert backpacking or trail riding will find it an enjoyable experience. No water is available at the primitive campground near the ruin. Backcountry permits are required and reser­ vations for them may be made by phone, mail, or in person, up to two months in advance of your trip date. These permits are limited to 20 individuals per day, through the summer months, from Memorial Day weekend (late May) to Labor Day (early September). CALL THE MONUMENT FOR DETAILS on arranging a visit to the ruin, where rangers pro­ vide tours of the site.

NOTE: It is in violation of Federal, State and Navajo Tribal laws to disturb, destroy, injure, deface or remove any natural feature or prehistoric object. INTERPARK MESSENGER, 1992 Page 3 HUBBELL TRADING POST NATIONAL HISTORIC SITE he dean of the traders to the Navajo was John did not live in close proximity with each other so in-law, sold the site and the Hubbell collection to TLorenzo Hubbell. During a half century on the the bullpen was a good place to catch up with the the National Park Service. It then became a National reservation he was known for his honesty in latest news. Traders often had several hogans built Historic Site. business dealings, for his hospitality to travelers and near the trading post where overnight guests could Hubbell Trading Post is open and active. It is the for his wise counsel to his friends, the Navajo. stay. Each hogan was supplied with wood and cook­ oldest continuously operated trading post on the John Lorenzo Hubbell was 23 years old when he ing utensils, the trader gave each family a dutch Navajo Indian Reservation. The trading post was arrived in the Ganado area in 1876. A Spanish- oven full of flour with salt and baking powder already and still is a crossroads of cultures. Here you can American from Albuquerque, New Mexico, Hubbell added to cook with. Canned peaches and tomatoes participate in the unique experience of a park that opened a trading post at Ganado Lake which at the were also given to the overnight guests. preserves not only the past, but the inter-cultural time was three miles south of the Navajo Indian John Lorenzo Hubbell worked closely with Navajo exchange of the present. Take your time and explore Reservation. In 1878, Hubbell bought from William weavers and silversmiths and found markets for the park, there is more than meets the eye. Leonard a trading post that was located at the pre­ their products. He insisted that they keep improv­ sent historic site. He then built a larger trading post ing their productions and advised them which com­ VISITOR CENTER next to the Leonard building and began to build the manded the best price. People today consider the This is the place to begin your visit. Rangers present trading post in 1883. It was completed in Ganado style rug, which Hubbell developed, as a can answer your questions, and you can watch 1889. "classic" Navajo rug. Navajo rug weavers and a silversmith The Navajo traded wool, sheep, cattle, hides, corn Hubbell soon expanded his trading business to demonstrate their crafts. and other items with the traders. After the wool was include over nine trading posts, a freighting Books and video-cassettes are available for weighed or the sheep counted the deal was clos­ business, mail contracts and several farms. With his purchase as well. ed and the trader paid the seller with cash, trading two sons, Lorenzo and Roman, who also became Hubbell Trading Post National Historic Site is tokens and merchandise. Later the Navajo bought traders, the Hubbell men eventually owned together open every day of the year except Thanksgiv­ goods against their credit. Inside the trading post or separately 32 trading posts, warehouses in ing, Christmas and New Year's Day. Hours are in the "bullpen," the trader displayed all the Gallup, New Mexico and Winslow, Arizona and 8:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. in the summer and 8:00 groceries and dry goods he had for sale. Here the "curio stores" in Hollywood and Long Beach, a.m. to 5:00 p.m. the rest of the year. customer could buy what ever was needed: cloth, California. Hubbell's influence also went beyond the Picnic tables are located near the visitor sugar, flour, coffee, utensils, kerosene lamps and boundaries of the reservation. He was a sheriff of center, but no camping or overnight stay is even sewing machines. They would point to the Apache County, a territorial representative and was available. items that were wanted and the trader or his elected in 1912 as one of Arizona's first state manager waited on the customer. Items were bought senators. He was a friend of presidents, scientists, HUBBELL HOME TOURS one at a time after each was examined closely and painters and writers and entertained many of these Rangers provide daily tours of the Hubbell duly considered. Buying continued as long as the people at his home in Ganado. Home. Tours are free but limited to 15 people. money lasted. J.L. Hubbell died in his Ganado home at the age A self-guided tour booklet of the Hubbell Trading Trading, though, was not a thing to be hurried. of 76 in 1930. A great many people, both Indian and Post compound is available at the Visitor Center. A trip to a trading post was a major event which no non-Indian, attended his funeral, to pay their THE TRADING POST family member passed up. Much socializing went respects to a great friend and man. His two sons Here the business of trading continues. Explore on in the bullpen during the transactions and a continued to operate the trading business after his the trader's office, the rug room and the bullpen. trading trip often lasted several days. The Navajo death. In 1967, Dorothy Hubbell, Hubbell's daughter- EL MORRO NATIONAL MONUMENT ising above the valley floor, a massive sand­ by the base of the massive bluff. Noting the secluded from a Mexican republic to a United States territory, Rstone bluff was a welcome landmark for weary pool, they named it "El Estanque del Penol" (the New Mexico played a major role in the westward ex­ travelers. Today called El Morro (or Inscription Rock), waterhole of the rock). Soon this place would become pansion. U.S. military expeditions were sent to explore it marked what became a popular campsite. a popular campsite for the Spaniards. In 1598 Don the new territory. In September 1849 an Army lieute­ Prehistoric Indians were the first to find the Juan de Onate established the first Spanish colony nant and an artist made their camp at El Morro. The waterhole hidden at its base. After the Colorado in what is now New Mexico. While exploring the vast artist spent two days copying the petroglyphs and Plateau was abandoned, people of the Anasazi culture territory, Onate stopped at El Morro many times. Spanish messages. Lieutenant J.H. Simpson and ar­ moved into the valley. Around A.D. 1275 they began However, it wasn't until 1605 that he changed the tist R.H. Kern recorded their visit, becoming the first construction of two villages on top of the bluff. By the sandstone forever. On the 16th of April, his discovery to leave an English inscription on the bluff. 1300s, at least 1500 people occupied the largest of the southern sea was deeply engraved in the stone, Attracted by the reliable waterhole, grass, and village, today called Atsinna. Perhaps seeking a bet­ recording his success for all to see. As late as 1774 shelter, several military expeditions encamped here. ter environment, the Anasazi left their homes by A.D. lengthy messages were carved by the Spaniards. When the trails west opened, pioneers, and, later, 1400. For reasons unknown to us, they carved figures, These historic writings, with words running together railroad survey crews passed by. Many left their animals, birds, and geometric designs along the cliff. and unique abbreviations, are a challenge for today's autographs, carving their names, dates and Today these carvings, called petroglyphs, remind us readers. hometowns into the stone. that the Anasazi were the first to leave their mark here. The late 1700s and early 1800s were a time of Today, some visitors can link their ancestry to names March 11,1583, found a Spanish expedition resting cultural and political turmoil for New Mexico. Changing inscribed upon El Morro.

VISITOR CENTER: Your visit to El Morro begins here. A 200-foot climb and the uneven sandstone surface make SAFETY CONSIDERATIONS: Rangers can answer questions and orient you to the this a more strenuous hike. Sturdy walking shoes and * Trails are subject to closure without notice due to high facilities and self-guided trails. An entrance fee of $1 per water are necessary. winds, lightning, snow and ice. person up to $3 per carload is required. Children under The trails are open daily 8:00 a.m. to 6:30 p.m. * The Mesa Top trail comes close to sheer drop-offs. Stair­ 17 and seniors 62 & older are free. Golden Eagle, Golden Memorial Day through Labor Day; 8:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. ways and switchbacks are steep. Surfaces are uneven Age and Golden Access passes are issued and honored. the remainder of the year. and slippery when wet. An annual El Morro pass can be purchased for $10. PICNICKING: Picnic sites are located by the visitor center. * Rattlesnakes are protected here. If you encounter a The visitor center is open daily 8:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m. snake, do not disturb it. Walk around it if you can. Other­ Memorial Day through Labor Day; 8:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. CAMPING: A nine-site primitive fee campground operates wise, find a ranger to remove it. Please report all snake the remainder of the year. The monument is closed on on a first-come, first-serve basis. Water is available May sightings to a ranger. Christmas Day. through October. Rangers conduct campfire programs * You will be hiking at an altitude of 7200+ feet, so please on summer weekends. MUSEUM: Museum exhibits located in the visitor center avoid overexertion. BUS TOURS AND GROUPS: Rangers provide general span 700 years of human history. A video program pro­ RULES AND REGULATIONS: history talks for organized groups. Contact the monument vides an introduction to the area. * Stay on designated trails. in advance to make arrangements. SELF-GUIDING TRAILS: Two self-guided trails are available. * Do not touch the inscriptions or deface any surface. Inscription Trail is a Vi mile round trip walk along a pav­ ACCESSIBILITY: Inscription Trail, picnic tables and one * Do not pick up or remove any objects from the ar­ ed surface. It takes you to Inscription Rock where you campsite are accessible with assistance to persons us­ chaeological sites. can see the petroglyphs, old Spanish messages and ing wheelchairs. A wheelchair and two infant carriers can * Do not disturb plants, animals or insects. 1800s autographs. Mesa Top Trail is a two-mile round trip be borrowed from the visitor center. * Pets are allowed and must be on a leash at all times. hike across varied terrain. It begins with Inscription Rock TAKE PRIDE: Please help to preserve our past for the * Camp in designated spots only. and continues to the Anasazi ruins above. This trail future. Do not touch inscriptions, deface surfaces, pick * Fires are permitted only in the grills provided. focuses on the geology and archaeology of the area. up or remove any objects from the archaeological sites. * No entry on trails after hours. INTERPARK MESSENGER, 1992 Page 4 CANYON DE CHELLY NATIONAL MONUMENT anyon de Chelly National Monument is 5500 feet at the Visitor Center to over 7000 feet drawing card, it is the cultural resources, both C located in the northeast corner of Arizona, at the upper canyon rim areas. The major bio- prehistoric and contemporary, which lure the ma­ in the heart of the Navajo Reservation. It consists region found here is high desert, characterized jority of visitors to these canyons. of two major canyons: Canyons de Chelly and del by the pinon-juniper woodland and an annual Archaeological evidence indictes that Canyon Muerto; two large tributary canyons and several precipitation of less than Jen inches. Average de Chelly has been "home" to people for at least smaller side canyons. These and other smaller temperatures range from 0-10° F above in the the last two thousand years. It is a living exam­ canyon systems were formed millions of years winter to 95-100° F in the summer. There are ple of a people's working relationship with the ago by the uplift of the Defiance Plateau and many micro-environments found throughout the land, demonstrating ties of a practical, emotional stream erosion. The canyons range from a depth canyons, making this area biologically significant and spiritual nature. The canyons provide a of only a few feet (at the mouth of de Chelly), to for both humans and animals. These areas have hospitable environment amidst a harsh landscape almost one thousand feet deep near Spider Rock. played an important role in the human history of and the history of humans and their relationship The elevation of the monument ranges from the canyon. Although scenic beauty is a definite to the land here is both rich and complex.

VISITOR SERVICES: CAMPING: Cottonwood Campground is located HORSEBACK RIDING: Guided tours on ancient ruins, rock art and present day lifestyle V2 mile from the Visitor's Center. The cam­ horseback are available from two National Park of the Navajos. This hike is moderately strenuous. pground is open year round with no camping Service authorized horse operators. Tours are Limited to 20 people. Sign up in person at the fees. Camp sites are available on a first-come, scheduled or by the hour with extended rides and Visitor Center no earlier than 48 hours ahead of first-serve basis limited to a 5-day stay. Facilities overnight trips available. time. include restrooms, picnic tables, water and dump Justin Tso Horse Rental, located at the begin­ HOGAN TALK: 10:30 a.m. & 2:00 p.m. Daily station. From November through March only por­ ning of the south rim drive. Rates are $8.007hr. Come to the Visitor Center Hogan and join a table toilets and picnic tables are available. Water per horse and $8.00/hr. per guide. Can be reach­ ranger for a brief talk or demonstration of interest is not available during the winter months. There ed at P.O. Box 881, Chinle, AZ 86503 or call (602) to the whole family. are no shower facilities. Maximum length for RV's 674-5678. and trailers is 35 feet. Fires are permitted in the Twin Trails Tours, located on the north rim drive, EVENING PROGRAMS: Program Topics are posted raised fire containers only. Wood gathering in the about 2 miles north from Antelope ., House at Visitor Center, Thunderbird Lodge Gift Shop, park is not permitted. Overlook turnoff. For further information write to and Campground Bulletin Board. Reservations are accepted for group sites on­ P.O. Box 1706, Window Rock, AZ 86515. THUNDERBIRD LODGE TALK: 6:30 p.m. Sunday, Tuesday, and Thursday ly. Group sites are available for a minimum of 15 GUIDE SERVICES: Authorized Navajo Guides Meet in the shade of the cottonwood trees in people and a maximum of 25. Trailers and recrea­ who provide firsthand knowledge of their front of the Thunderbird Lodge gift shop. Topics tional vehicles are not permitted to use group homeland may be hired at the Visitor Center in­ include trading posts, traders, arts and crafts, and sites. Group sites can be reserved 90 days in ad­ formation desk. FREE PERMITS are required and local history and culture. vance for a maximum of 3 days. Call (602) available at the Visitor Center. You must provide 674-5436. Camping outside of the designated your own 4-wheel vehicle. NATURAL HISTORY PROGRAM: 6:30 p.m. Mon­ area is not permitted. GUIDE SERVICE FEES day, Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday LODGING: THE THUNDERBIRD LODGE is Spectacular scenery highlights this program. Your Own 4-wheel drive: 1 vehicle $10.00 per hour. Enjoy the sunset and learn about the animals, located V2 mile from the Visitors Center. The Two or more vehicles: additional cost (1 guide per lodge is open year round and offers reduced rates plants, or geology of the canyon. Meet at the 5 vehicles required). Hiking: $10.00 per hour (1 Junction Overlook on the south rim drive. from November 1 through February 28. Reser­ guide per 15 people is required). Minimum of 3 vations are recommended. Call (602) 674-5841 or hours for vehicle and hiking tours. Bus Tour Group: CAMPFIRE PROGRAM: 9:00 p.m. Nightly (602) 674-5842 for further information. $50.00 per rim. Join us for this unique National Park Service CANYON DE CHELLY MOTEL & JUNCTION presentation. Take this opportunity to learn about RESTAURANT is located in Chinle, one block Other scheduled hikes are offered daily, in­ the past and present at Canyon de Chelly. east of Highway 191,3 miles west from the Visitor cluding overnight treks by the Tsegi Guide Rangers present a different program nightly at the Center. The Motel and Restaurant are open year Association. Check at the Visitor Center for Campground Amphitheater. round at competitive rates with a full service schedule and rates. SPECIAL PROGRAMS: Throughout the summer, restaurant and swimming pool. For information OTHER SERVICES: The town of Chinle offers fast- there will be special programs presented on an call (602) 674-5875. Office Hours - 7:00 a.m. to food outlets, service stations, grocery stores and irregular basis. Check at the Visitor Center for 10:00 p.m. Restaurant information can be reach­ laundromats. No banks or ATM's in Chinle. For program updates and announcements. ed at (602) 674-8443. Restaurant Hours - 6:30 further information inquire at the Visitor Center. In addition there will be the following schedul­ a.m. to 9:00 p.m. ed special programs. CONCESSION SERVICES: RANGER - LED ACTIVITIES NAVAJO DAY: Every Saturday at Canyon de Chel­ MAY 22 THROUGH SEPTEMBER 7 ly is Navajo Day. All programs and activities will CAFETERIA: Open daily at the Thunderbird WE ARE SORRY RUT PROGRAMS ARE SURJECT TO be related to Navajo history and culture. Some Lodge from 6:30 a.m. to 8:30 p.m. Check the programs will be presented in both English and Lodge for winter hours. Breakfast: 6:30 a.m. to CHANGE WITHOUT NOTICE. CHECK AT THE Navajo. Navajo Day is a day for all park visitors 10:00 a.m.; Lunch: 11:00 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.; Din­ VISITOR CENTER FOR SCHEDULE UPDATES OR and neighbors to celebrate Navajo Culture. ner: 4:00 p.m. to 8:30 p.m. SPECIAL PROGRAMS. VISITOR CENTER: Open Daily, 8:00 a.m. - 6:00 COLUMBUS QUINCENTENNIAL: Canyon de Chel­ GIFT SHOP: Open daily at the Thunderbird p.m. (May-Sept.), 8:00 a.m. - 5:00 p.m. (Oct.-April) ly along with the National Park Service par­ Lodge. Silver jewelry, postcards, books, films, t- A recommended first stop on your visit to Can­ ticipates in the nation's observance of the 500th shirts and Indian crafts are for sale. . yon de Chelly. Here you will find books of regional anniversary of Columbus' voyage with a special CANYON TOURS: The Thunderbird Lodge of­ interest, a museum to acquaint you with the program entitled, "Footsteps Along the Path." fers vehicle tours into the canyon led by Navajo area's history, cultural demonstrations, a local ar­ This program deals with Columbus and the guides. Canyon sights include ancient ruins, rock tist's exhibit and a ranger-staffed information desk. sweeping consequences of Spanish conquest art, geology, and farms and homes of the Nava­ MORNING COFFEE: 7:30 - 8:00 a.m. Daily and exploration among American Indian cultures, jo people. Wake Up! Join a ranger at the Campground especially the Navajo. It also explores the disrup­ ALL DAY TOUR: Late Spring to Early Fall - Amphitheater for a cup of coffee. Find out what's tion of balance and harmony during this time and Departs at 9:00 a.m. and returns approximately happening at Canyon de Chelly in a casual set­ the efforts to restore that harmony. Navajo ranger 5:30 p.m. (includes lunch) — $51.45 per person. ting. Bring your own cup, condiments (cream and Lupita Johnson created this program, utilizing a variety of resources, including oral histories and HALF DAY TOUR: Departs at 9:00 a.m. to 2:00 sugar) and plenty of questions. 1 personal experiences of herself. This program will p.m. Tour is approximately 3 /2 hours — $31.50 CANYON HIKE: 8:30 a.m. - 12:00 p.m. Daily be presented at certain times at the park. In ad­ per person (12-under — $23.10). Spend the morning hiking in the canyon with dition, is it available to school groups, communi­ WINTER SCHEDULE: Only half-day tours. a ranger. Meet at the Visitor Center and bring your ty organizations and other interested parties. Con­ Departs at 9:00 a.m, and 1:00 p.m. Must have own vehicle. You will car pool to the trailhead. tact Lupita at (602) 674-5436 or write Superinten­ minimum of 6 people. Hike features: geology, plants and animals, dent, P.O. Box 588, Chinle, Arizona 86503. INTERPARK MESSENGER, 1992 Page 5 SELF-GUIDED YEAR ROUND ACTIVITIES CANYON DE CHELLY PARK REGULATIONS RIM DRIVES - Enjoy the sight of Canyon de Chelly and Canyon del Muerto by driving the north The staff at Canyon De Chelly want you to enjoy your visit, however the Code of Federal Regulations and the and south rim drives. Allow approximately 2 hours for each rim drive. Guide books are available at Navajo Tribal Codes prohibit the following: the Visitor Center. - Entering the canyons of Canyon De Chelly National WHITE HOUSE RUINS TRAIL - An excellent way to experience Canyon de Chelly is to hike Monument without a Park Ranger or an Authorized guide With a permit. (Travel to and from White House the White House Ruins Trail. This scenic switch-back trail descends Ruin on the hiking trail is the only exception to this rule.) 600 feet to the canyon floor on a well maintained, moderate trail. - Possessing or consuming alcoholic beverages on the Be prepared to wade across the Chinle Wash. Respect the Navajo Reservation. privacy of canyon residents and do not wander off - Entering any ruin or other archaeological site. the trail. A trail guide is available at the Visitor - Disturbing, destroying, injuring, defacing or removing Center. Allow approximately 2 hours for a any natural feature or prehistoric object. 1 - Allowing pets on trails and to run them at large. 2 /2 mile roundtrip. - No dune buggy or mountain bike in the canyon or on CARRY DRINKING WATER trails. PETS ARE NOT ALLOWED YOUARERESPONSIBLEFORKNOWINGPARKREGULATIONS ON THE TRAIL

TRAVELING AMONG made up of representatives of various election districts. sation with a Navajo. THE NAVAJOS Navajo country is also divided into chapters. Com­ The general exuberance many cultures define as munity meetings and activities take place in the many friendliness is not considered such by the Dine. From ™-,.elcome to the Navajo Reservation. The reser- chapter houses you will see in more populated areas. childhood they are taught not to talk too much, be VVvation offers a variety of recreation and cultural Navajos have traditionally been a democratic society loud, or be forward to strangers. Such behavior is con­ opportunities. Here you can experience the natural and never had hereditary chiefs as did some other sidered impolite or showing off. Likewise, touching is wonders of Monument Valley Tribal Park, reflect upon tribes. Window Rock, Ariz, is the capital of the nation. seen differently. Among Navajos it may be reserved the lives of the Anasazi people who left the ruins in Many visitors enjoy sketching or photographing the for close friends and family, and in other cases may Canyon de Chelly and Navajo National Monuments.or people and the land. Years ago this would have been be a sign of disrespect. Usually the only physical con­ visit Hubbell Trading Post National Historic Site where considered offensive. Today such activity is common, tact you will see is handshaking, and even then a firm customers have come since 1878. but permission should be asked before photographing grip is interpreted as being overbearing. A light shak­ or drawing people or personal property. A fee is often The Land ing of hands is preferred. expected. Small herds of sheep, goats, cattle, and horses form The Navajo Reservation encompasses about 25,000 Hogans an important part of life for many Navajos. Much of square miles (65,000 square kilometers), about the the reservation is open range and herds move freely size of West Virginia. Located primarily in Arizona, the Hogans are the traditional homes of the Dine. They along and across roads. Use caution when driving, reservation also extends into Utah and New Mexico. serve both as residence and as places for certain especially at night. In addition there is much Navajo country in New Mex­ ceremonies. Often six sided, a hogan may also have ico which is outside the reservation. Spectacular ca­ more or fewer than six sides. They are usually built The Navajo Reservation observes daylight savings nyons, rugged mountains, forests, lakes, and deserts from materials readily available - wood, earth, stones, time. The remainder of Arizona does not. If you are combine to create a landscape not easily forgotten. even concrete. The doorway faces the sunrise to allow traveling here during this part of the year be aware the occupants to welcome the new day. Many hogans that time on the reservation is an hour later than such The Language do not have electricity or running water. You may see places as Phoenix or the Grand Canyon. Listen closely as you travel here. The Navajo pick-up trucks hauling firewood or water from com­ Though individual Navajos do not own the land language is frequently used. For some people Nava­ munity wells. You will not see towns or cities in the upon which they live, families hold traditional use jo is their only language. Most Navajos also speak familiar sense. Navajos live in family groups spread rights under tribal customary law. Nearly all land on English, but with varying degrees of skill. The throughout the reservation. Small clusters of hogans, the reservation is part of someone's traditional use language, of the Athabascan family, is complex and trailers, and a house or two may signify more than one area. Therefore hiking or cross-country excursions off difficult to learn. It is capable of amazingly fine distinc­ generation of a family. established roads without permission is trespassing. tions, especially in describing this land. This law respects property rights and protects the Some Travel Tips thousands of archaeological sites. Tampering with or The People While traveling among the Navajos you will notice removing archaeological items is prohibited by both The Navajos call themselves "Dine" — "The Peo­ some differences between the Dine culture and the tribal and federal law. The Navajo Tribe has its own ple." They have been living here for more than four European-American culture. One such difference is police department. Obey all speed limits while on the hundred years. When the Spaniards explored this area eye contact. To many people eye contact is considered reservation. Drive with care and watch for pedestrians in the 1600's they used the name "Apache de Nava­ polite and important. Among Navajos eye contact is along all roads. One last word: alcoholic beverages jo," meaning "Apaches of the Cultivated Fields." To­ considered impolite. If you are speaking to a courteous are prohibited on the reservation. day approximately 165,000 people live in Navajo land group of Navajos, some may look down or away, even Traveling the Navajo Nation offers you a rare and The Navajo Nation is governed by an elected tribal though you may have their full attention. special opportunity to learn more about the culture council headed by a tribal president. The council is You may not be successful in striking up a conver­ and history of the Dine...Enjoy your visit. INTERPARK MESSENGER, 1992 Page 6 €HA€® €UIOTRfi NATIONAL HISTORICAL PARK haco Culture National Historical Park is in a major ruins have had some stabilization above Chaco Culture National Historical Park. The park € long, shallow canyon that is centrally located ground, but care has been taken not to alter the received international recognition when it was within the San Juan Basin of northwestern New appearance of the walls as they were found. recognized as a World Heritage Cultural Park on Mexico. The canyon of Chaco was carved into the The Anasazi abandoned the canyon around December 8, 1987. basin by what is now known as the Chaco Wash, A.D. 1200 and for a few centuries Chaco remain­ From the north, Chaco Culture NHP can be a tributary of the San Juan River. The park lies ed undisturbed. The Navajo arrived in the area reached by turning off New Mexico 44 at Nageezi primarily along this wash and its tributaries and in the 1400's but did not settle in the canyon un­ and following San Juan County road 7800 for 11 includes archaeological sites inside and outside til the early 1700's. In the middle of the 19th cen­ miles to New Mexico 57. The visitor center is 15 the canyon. These sites represent a prehistoric tury, several of the major ruins were thoroughly miles ahead on 57. An alternative northern route, cultural system which at one time extended described by First Lt. James H. Simpson, who is turning off NM 44 at Blanco Trading Post and throughout the basin. The San Juan Basin has came through the canyon on a military expedi­ following NM 57 into the park. From the south, been occupied for over 10,000 years and has tion. The first archaeological investigation com­ pick up New Mexico 57 at Thoreau or Crownpoint, been home to Paleo-lndians, Archaic people, the menced in May 1896 when the Hyde Exploring New Mexico. All of these routes include at least Anasazi, the Navajo, and people of Hispanic and Expedition started work on Pueblo Bonito. This 20 miles of unpaved road and during bad weather, Anglo descent. Some of these groups remain to­ expedition launched nearly a century of ar­ inquire locally or call the park about the condi­ day, but the park was established because of its chaeological excavations and surveys in the ca­ tion of the roads. well-preserved prehistoric ruins. nyon and outlying areas. There are no services available at the park and The Anasazi ruins of Chaco are the tangible Since 1896, a considerable amount of informa­ the nearest town is 60 miles away. Gallo camp­ remains of a culture that flourished in the canyon tion has been learned about the ruins of Chaco ground is one mile from the visitor center and from A.D. 900 through 1150. There are 13 major and the people who built them. We know they campsites are available on a first-come first-serve ruins in the canyon, and over 3,500 sites have fashioned turquoise jewelry, coiled pots, wove basis. Bring your own firewood or charcoal for been recorded within park boundaries. The ma­ sandals and carved flutes; just as we know the there isn't any available in the park. The camp­ jor ruins consist of multi-roomed and multi-storied social ramifications of these complex structures ing fee is $5.00 per night and the entrance fee structures some of which cover several acres and included the ability to organize and supervise to the park is $3.00 per vehicle. Trailers over 30 contain as many as 800 rooms. The most famous laborers. All of this has been determined through feet long cannot be accommodated. Camping is of these is Pueblo Bonito. With its finely detailed the archaeological record. Yet there is just as limited to 7 days. masonry, elegantly battered walls, and overall im­ much that is not known about these gifted and Regulations posing massiveness, it is difficult to believe that determined prehistoric masons and their culture. this finely engineered structure was built without We don't know what their music sounded like, The superintendent and his staff are here to the use of power tools, beasts of burden, or the how their food tasted, or why they left. When you help you understand and enjoy the park and to wheel. visit Chaco, enjoy these mysteries and allow your protect all prehistoric remains and the park's plant and animal life. The ruins of Chaco Canyon imagination to recreate the sounds of a flute echo­ ing through the canyon or the smell of roasting The Federal Antiquities Act of 1906 and the Ar­ The ruins themselves look now much as they corn. And as you walk through these impressive chaeological Resources Protection Act of 1979 did within a few hundred years of abandonment. structures of prehistory, be respectful and under­ prohibit the appropriation, injury, destruction, or None of the structures in Chaco have been com­ stand that there will always be questions about removal of any object of antiquity, or the excava­ pletely reconstructed. The great kiva of Casa Rin- the canyon and its people that will remain tion, injury or destruction of any ruin on Federal conada was found in very bad condition, and a unanswered. land. great deal of repair work was done to restore its Please leave all antiquities and broken bits of About your Visit well-built appearance, but it is still not a complete pottery where they lie. They may contribute to structure. Pueblo Bonito, Chetro Ketl, Pueblo del Chaco Canyon National Monument was research and to the enjoyment of visitors who Arroyo, and Kin Kletso have been excavated, and created by legislation on March 11, 1907, under come after you. extensive maintenance has been done on them. the auspices of the 1906 Antiquities Act. In 1980, A few sites, for instance Pueblo Alto, have been Public Law 96-550 was passed which expanded excavated and covered over again. All of the the monument boundaries and changed it to INTERPARK MESSENGER, 1992 Page 7 EL AAALPAIS NATIONAL MONUMENT l Malpais National Monument and National Conservation Area is Highway 53 on the west side and Highway 117 on the east side provide ac­ Ejointly administered by the National Park Service and the Bureau cess to this inspiring monument. of Land Management. The area was established December 31,1987 and its acreage totals approximately 114,000 acres. While traveling along State Highway 53, the closest site to Grants is the Zuni-Acoma Trail. This was once a Pueblo Indian trade route across the Malpais EL MALPAIS, Spanish for BADLANDS, is nestled between majestic connecting the Pueblos of Acoma and Zuni. It is a 7.5 mile hike to the other Mt. Taylor and the Zuni Mountains. El Malpais is known for its valleys side on Highway 117. As a safety measure, it is recommended that visitors of lava flow. Flows dating from one thousand to one million years old inform Rangers at the BLM Ranger Station or El Malpais Information Center feature spatter cones, a 17-mile long lava tube system, and unique vegeta­ before starting a hiking excursion. It is an all-day hike, so be prepared with tion associations. The area is also rich in ancient Pueblo Indian history enough food and water. and features a diverse ecosystem. Two prominent State Highways, As visitors proceed along Highway 53, they can explore a lava tube named Junction Cave, a cinder crater, and the splendid forest of the Zuni Mountains. Access to Junction Cave can be obtained through Highway 53 via county road 42. Junction Cave is home to Big Skylight Cave and Four-Window Cave. Use of a 4-wheel drive vehicle is recommended due to the rough terrain. Travel on county road 42 during inclement weather is not advisable. Along State Highway 117, the closest visitor use site is the Bureau of Land Management's Ranger Station where visitors can obtain information about the National Monument and Conservation Area. Highway i17 offers splendid views of the lava valley for 25 miles and especially from the top of Sandstone Bluffs. Prehistoric Indian ruins, the east end of the Zuni-Acoma Trail, "La Vieja" (a silhouette feature of an old woman), and the famous "La Ventana" natural arch can be seen from Highway 117. When planning for an adventure into the Malpais, obtain maps and a free Backcountry use permit from the El Malpais Information Center, located at 620 East Santa Fe Avenue in downtown Grants. It is open seven days a week and its hours are 8:00 a.m. - 5:00 p.m. Lava is rough and can cause accidents. It is also easy to get lost. Please use extreme care while hiking. We suggest that you wear hat, sturdy shoes, and have plenty of water. Remember you are on a National Monument where hunting, excavating, and removal of any materials is prohibited. NOTE: It is in violation of Federal, State and Acoma Pueblo Tribal laws to disturb, destroy, injure, deface or remove any natural feature or prehistoric object. AZTEC RUINS NATIONAL MONUMENT ne of the largest buildings erected at Aztec advance notice. A TDD is available. A few decades later people culturally akin to Owas a multi-story pueblo, now called the Uneven steps and surfaces, low doorways, and the cliff dwellers of the rugged Mesa Verde coun­ West Ruin. Tree-ring dates reveal most of this dim lighting on the trail require caution. Visitors try forty miles northwest occupied this area. This structure went up between A.D. 1111 and A.D. need to remain on the trail, stay off ruin walls, and second group remodeled buildings and built 1115. This pueblo resembled the great houses at leave artifacts, plants and animals at peace. others nearby, using techniques characteristic of Chaco, indicating a cultural connection. Over two A shaded picnic area is nearby the parking lot. Mesa Verde. They were farmers and hunters as dozen kivas and about 400 contiguous rooms There is no overnight camping. Overnight ac­ were the earlier Chacoans, and they prospered enclosed a large central plaza. The plaza and a comodations and restaurants are in nearby Aztec for a few generations. But by 1300 they moved partially subterranean building which it surround­ and Farmington. on, as did other inhabitants of the region, leav­ ed, a great kiva, were used for community-wide Hours are 8:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. daily from ing their buildings to slowly return to the earth. ceremonies and other activities. The massive Memorial Day weekend through Labor Day, and Why they moved remains unclear. Depletion of Chacoan style walls — a core of cobbles embedd­ 8:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. the remainder of the year. natural resources, unfavorable environmental ed in copious mud mortar and sandwiched bet­ The monument is closed Christmas and New conditions, social changes — all may have con­ ween veneers of shaped sandstone — supported Year's Day. The entrance fee is $1.00 per adult. tributed to their decision to relocate. Many found three levels in places. Ages 16 and under are free. Golden Eagle, a home in the better-watered Rio Grande coun­ The Hubbard Site nearby is one of a handful Golden Access, and Golden Age passports are try to the southeast. Others moved west to the of tri-wall structures in the Southwest. Three con­ honored and available. mesas along the present Arizona-New Mexico centric rings of walls encircle a deep kiva. Other Contrary to the name, these ruins had nothing border, while others went south. By 1300 the en­ buildings include the East Ruin, another multi­ to do with the Aztecs of central Mexico. The tire region was void of the people who had story pueblo similar to its neighbor, and the Earl Aztecs lived centuries after the occupation of this established deep roots in that area. Their descen­ Morris Ruin, of which little is known. Anasazi settlement. Inspired by popular histories dants are the pueblo people, living in villages in about pueblos, the early Anglo settlers named the Visiting the Area Arizona and New Mexico and continuing a rich site Aztec. The town took its name from the ruins. culture influenced by their Anasazi ancestors. The area is located about one mile from Aztec Aztec was influenced by two major centers of off U.S. Hwy 550. Visitors should allow about 1Va Anasazi culture. Sixty-five miles south lay Chaco, Excavation hours to enjoy the monument. A 400 yard self- a broad canyon densely speckled with Anasazi Earl H. Morris headed the first systematic dig guiding trail winds through the West Ruin and buildings which grew over many centuries. Dur­ at Aztec under the American Museum of Natural Hubbard site. The tour begins behind the visitor ing the 1000s and 1100s, Chaco exerted History. He was 25 when he began work in 1916 center, where visitors obtain a trail guide booklet. widespread influence as an economic and and continued to excavate and stabilize portions The visitor center has exhibits, a book outlet, and ceremonial center throughout the 25,000-square- of the remains for seven seasons. In the 1930s visitor information. A 25-minute video entitled mile San Juan Basin. Aztec joined scores of other Morris returned to Aztec and supervised the "Anasazi" is shown hourly. Interpretive talks are outlying communities which exhibited Chacoan reconstruction of the Great Kiva, a task which given daily throughout June, July and August. style architecture, ceramics and connecting demanded skill to surmise the building's original The rest of the monument is closed to the public. roads. Their residents participated in the Cha­ appearance through scant remains uncovered Portions of the trail are accessible to wheel­ coan Phenomenon, an extensive social and during excavation. After excavating most of the chairs. Restrooms and the visitor center are fully economic system which reached far beyond the West Ruin, he left portions unexcavated for in­ accessible. Replica artifacts for touching and a canyon walls at Chaco. With the collapse of vestigations by future archaeologists certain to sign language interpreter are available on Chaco in the 1100s, life at Aztec changed also. bring better techniques. INTERPARK MESSENGER, 1992 Page 8

11992, Rocky Mountain Graphics

SUPERINTENDENT SUPERINTENDENT NAVAJO NATIONAL If you are interested AZTEC RUINS MONUMENT in obtaining further NATIONAL MONUMENT HC-71, Box 3 P.O. Box 640 Tonalea, AZ 86044-9704 information on any of Aztec, NM 87410 (602) 672-2366 or 2367 the parks profiled (505) 334-6174 (Voice for TDD) in this issue of the SUPERINTENDENT INTERPARK MESSENGER SUPERINTENDENT CANYON DE CHELLY CHACO CULTURE NATL NATIONAL MONUMENT please feel free to contact HISTORICAL PARK P.O. Box 588 them by phone or letter. Star Route 4, Box 6500 Chinle, AZ 86503 They will be happy Bloomfield, NM 87413 (602) 674-5436 or 5213 (505) 786-7014 to assist you.

SUPERINTENDENT SUPERINTENDENT SUPERINTENDENT HUBBELL TRADING POST EL MORRO NAT'L MONUMENT EL MALPAIS INFOR­ NATIONAL HISTORIC SITE Route 2, Box 43 MATION CENTER P.O. Box 150 Ramah, NM 87321-9603 620 E. Santa Fe St. Ganado, AZ 86505 (505) 783-4226 Grants, NM 87020 (602) 755-3475 (505) 285-5406