King Edward VII Class Kit

King Edward VII Class Kit Displacement: 16,350 tons standard, 17,500 tons full load Dimensions: 453’, 6” length overall x 78’ beam Machinery: 2-shaft, 18,000 hp VTE; 18 knots Armament 4 – 12” (2x2), 4 – 9.2” (4x1), 10 – 6” (6x1), 5 - 18” torpedo tubes This hull kit will build a 1/144 scale King Edward VII class pre-dreadnought hull, suitable for R/C naval combat. The kit includes ribs, sub-deck, center keel, pump keels, rudder tray, casemates, casemate stringers, and decks with hatches. The builder will need to supply sheeting for the bottom and sides, approximately 4’ of 1/8”x1/4” basswood sticks, superstructure, and all controls and armament. Ships in class: HMS Africa HMS Dominion HMS King Edward VII HMS Britannia HMS Hibernia HMS New Zealand HMS Commonwealth HMS Hindustan The kit can also be used to build the basic hull for the British Formidable and Duncan classes, as well as the Japanese Mikasa. The Japanese Asahi and Shikishima class are also close to the hull built from the shortened kit, needing only a subtraction or addition of 1/2” length respectively. When building any of these alternate ships, leave out the 1.8” extensions in the keel, sub-deck, and deck, as well as rib #9. The center casemates will have to be removed from the sub-deck and appropriate casemates constructed from scratch. Because of the change of rib spacing, the pump keels will only fit back to rib #8, after which new pump keels will have to be constructed. Formidable class: Duncan Class: Japanese HMS Formidable HMS Albemarle IJN Mikasa HMS Irresistible HMS Cornwallis HMS Implacable HMS Duncan With additional changes: HMS London HMS Exmouth IJN Asahi HMS Bulwark HMS Montagu IJN Shikishima HMS Venerable HMS Russell IJN Hatsuse HMS Queen HMS Prince of Wales Construction notes: - This kit follows the generic wood kit building instruction available at http://www.jenkse.us/rcengr/Ship Construction.pdf. - After gluing the sub-deck together, it needs to be notched to allow it to follow the deck curve at the fore and aft of the hull. In the bow, make one cut (both sides, avoiding the dovetail joint) just before the notch for the #2 rib, two cuts between ribs 2 and 3, and one cut between ribs 3 and 4. Make the cuts about 2/3 through the plywood and flex the plywood gently to make sure it bends. In the stern, make one cut between rib ribs 13 and 14, one cut between 12 and 13, and one between 11 and 12. - When adding the 1/8” x 1/4” stringer to define the top of the hard area, use two pieces. One piece should go from rib 1 to rib 11. The second piece goes from rib 11 to rib 14. Since the hard area transitions from 1” below the waterline to the 45 degree turn of the bilge at rib 11, it is easier to install the stringer if there is a break at rib 11. - The rudder tray is sized to use a Hitec HS-82MG servo. This metal gear servo has proven to be durable in combat use and only costs slightly more than a standard servo. .

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