How to Select the Right Portfolio Top Modeling Agencies What Is a Modeling Portfolio? 1

Page 2 Page 23 TopmodelingPoses.Com TopModelingPoses.Com

How To Select The Right Portfolio Top Modeling agencies What Is A Modeling Portfolio? 1. The agency must be located in a top Simply put - its a collection of your photographs. fashion capital for the simple reason that the most lucrative and prestigious How important are these modeling assignments are there. photographs? These cities include: New York, Milan, Paris, London, Tokyo, Sao Paulo and Your photographs are Barcelona. the most important tool you have!!! Photographs 2. The agency is well-known and re- are the first step to get- spected in the fashion industry and has a good reputa- ting noticed in the mod- tion, in so far, as monitoring agencies or governing bod- eling industry. That’s ies in their respective country, like the Better Business why it is critical to pro- Bureau in the US and the association of fashion design- duce a portfolio that will showcase your work as a ers and the group handling the city's fashion week. model. It s important to remember that your portfolio is a resume and your main promotional tool! 3. The agency has directly provided a model with a lucrative assignment for a top fashion design house (for exam- Modeling agencies and fashion industry clients want ple Gucci, Dolce and Gabbana, Calvin Klein, Prada, Val- to see your photographs before they do anything else. entino and Giorgio Armani among others). Many agencies will not even schedule an interview Some of the top modeling agencies in the world are: without seeing your photographs. IMG Models - New York City, Wilhelmina Models - New York City, DNA Model Management - New York City, How To Decide On The Type of Portfolio To Use? Ford Models - New York City, FTC Publications - Atlanta; New York City, Elite Model Management - New York City, Generally portfolios come in 3 styles: NEXT Model Management - Paris, France; New York City Fashion Management - Milan, Italy. Major Model Man- Open Book - New York Book Style cases have a agement - New York City, Storm Model Agency - London, cover and pages and reads like a book. These cases UK, Trump Model Management - New York City, may or may not have pocket pages in them. You have Women Model Management - New York City to be sure everything is glued down in the books so Select Model Management - London, UK, Models 1 nothing falls out. You’ll also have to protect the photos Agency - London, UK, Success Model Management - from liquid falling into the pages and destroying the Paris, France, WS2M World Scouting Model Manage- photos. These cases usually do not have handles to ment - Paris, France, Premiere Model Management - carry them around. London, UK, D Model Management - Milan, Italy, Elite Model Management - Paris, France, Group Model Management - Barcelona and Madrid, Spain Page 22 Page 3 TopmodelingPoses.Com TopModelingPoses.Com

Photographers Split Fees

There are unscrupulous photographers who split fees with modeling agencies. Hard case like a briefcase style - The hard case does a A photographer may call himself a modeling agency, great job of keeping stuff in the case and protecting it, but when in reality all he has is a photo studio. A photo stu- the contents can become jumbled. dio, however, is not a modeling agency. There are also modeling agencies that are photo mills. They do not get people work. They do not make all their money from com- Zippered case -The zippered case style portfolio zips up missions after models work; instead, they make most of and can be carried like the briefcase. Many have handles their money or even all of their money from modeling that make it easy to carry the case. This type of case has photos, before a model gets any work. vinyl pages that protect the photos that are displayed in the case. A major modeling agency scam is when the agency makes all its money from photography, or it takes all the There is no one answer. You need to look at where you money the models spend on photos. They can do this are in your career and the market you are working in. because they have their own photographer(s). (If, for example, a model spends $1,000 on photos, the agency Some markets may demand a top of the line case were takes and keeps $1,000.) others you can begin with something less expensive.

A very similar scam, or the same scam at a different de- Don’t spend a lot of money on a case until you have great gree, is when a modeling agency works with a modeling images to put in it. You will need to do your own shopping photographer and can make half of around to find the case that is right for you. all the money the models spend on photos. Your portfolio has to be something that you are proud to present. Check out our portfo- The agency requires or highly rec- lio cases link page sites that ommends a specific photographer offer portfolio cases because they have a partnership -- a secret agreement -- where the How to pick the right photo- agency and the photographer split graphs for your portfolio.

the fee. (If, for example, a model spends $1,000 on photos, the The first step to getting no- agency keeps $500, and the pho- ticed in the modeling industry is to produce a portfolio that tographer keeps $500.) will showcase your work as a

model, and your portfolio is a

resume and main promotional tool! Page 4 Page 21 TopmodelingPoses.Com TopModelingPoses.Com

You’ll only get one chance to make a good first impression! Paying $1,000 for comp cards to an agency that is a Remember, this is truly a first impression business. The first promotional agency, not a modeling things the modeling agencies and fashion industry clients agency, is ridiculous. Promotional want to see are your pictures. Many of them will not sched- "modeling" pays $15/hour. Therefore The ule an interview with out seeing your photographs. model may never make more from modeling than the cost of the comp cards. In You must use pictures that show your ability to communi- fact, the model may never even make cate many personalities; from being happy and outgoing, anything. The model would have to work dramatic or serious, or young and sophisticated. Here are for more than 65 hours at $15/hr just to some things to consider when developing your portfolio: break even and to pay off the $1,000 comp cards. • Your portfolio should be a series of photographs showing full lengths, medium and close-up shots of you in sev- Paying $1,000 for comp cards when represented by an eral types of situations and styles of clothing. agency that gets many of its models high-fashion or high-paying work is not ridiculous. The cost of the photos can be paid by the first modeling job. • Submit clear photos that are in focus There are modeling agencies where models do not have • Keep make-up to a minimum to pay for their photos until after they work. It comes out of their first paycheck. This is the only way to check and • Keep your styles simple and well groomed. balance expensive modeling photos. It does not put the model at risk or in a financial hole.

• Keep clothing simple and in good taste. Not too much Photographers jewelry.

The credibility of a modeling agency and the possibility • Pay attention to the backgrounds in of a modeling photography scam can be evaluated to your photo. Try to shoot photos against a some extent based on whether only one photographer is plain wall or outdoors. required or recommended. Reputable agencies should give a list of top photographers but they will not require • Submit photos that are in good taste. one photographer. Models should submit at least one photo in a two-piece swimsuit The credibility of photographers can be checked by looking at the history of the photographer who is required or recommended. Get the photographer's name. Find the photographer's experience. Visit the photographer's website. Look at samples of previous work. Page 20 Page 5 TopmodelingPoses.Com TopModelingPoses.Com

Your portfolio should be made up of a mixture of prints Model Promotion (color and black and white prints) color slides, and any tear sheets of work that Model promotion after a model is discovered does require you have done relevant to the type of professional modeling photos. There are basically three photography modeling you want to do. kinds of photos used to promote models: comp cards, portfolios, and tear sheets. Overall, the key to creating a stylish portfolio is keeping it simple, constant Clients of modeling agencies want to see comp cards, and up to date. It is a good idea to try to portfolios, and tear sheets. Comp cards are an industry tailor your portfolio to suit the type of standard; so are portfolios; and so are tear sheets. interview you are doing, rather than Therefore modeling agencies ask for them. showing the same pictures to every one – an editor of a home and gardening Agencies that make money from modeling photos may be magazine won’t be interested in creative running modeling photography scams. Instead of getting studio portraits. money from commissions after the models get work, they are paid from photos before the models get work. This is Here are some portfolio mistakes you should avoid: the same as being paid up front. • Do not submit photos with anyone else in the photo It is a huge conflict of interest. Modeling agencies should but you. not make money from modeling photos. They should only • Do not wear hats, gloves, long gowns, sunglasses or make money from the work models get. prescription glasses. • Do not submit wedding photos. Scam modeling agencies make all their money or a sig- • Do not wear jewelry that will take focus away from nificant amount of their income from modeling photos, not you. modeling jobs. • Do not send NUDES! Modeling agencies do not want

to see you naked. You can put on a swimsuit. Thus the scam is recruiting models to get • Do not submit photos that are “suggestive” in nature. signed by the agency knowing they will not Sexy is good, trashy is not. get work, and the amount they pay for photos will never be paid for by modeling work. • Do not use “special effects “on your photos. • Do not submit photos where you are so far away in Modeling Photography Expenses the photo they need a magnifying glass to see you.

One indication of a modeling photography scam is modeling photography expenses that are not commensurate with the type of modeling the model intends to get. Not all modeling pays well. Not all modeling agencies can get models high-paying work. Page 6 Page 19 TopmodelingPoses.Com TopModelingPoses.Com

How large should the photographs be?

Portfolio cases and prints come in a variety of sizes; the There are four basic quality and quantity issues at the New York cases tend to be 9 heart of modeling photography scams: photo quality is too x12inches or 9 1/2 x 12 1/2 inches, low; photo quality is too high; photo quantity is too low; which hold 8x12 inch prints. photo quantity is too high.

It is OK to use 11x14 prints in a 14x17 How many photos do you need? What inch book which will allow you to put is the necessary quality? any size prints, tear sheets or slides sheets that you acquire from photogra- The fundamental issues which deter- phers that you tested with and any ac- mine the necessary quantity and quality tual work that you start doing. of modeling photos is the purpose and

target audience. There are really only How many photographs do I need in the portfolio? two purposes and two targets. The purposes are model discovery and model Do not put dozens of pictures in your portfolio unless you promotion; and the targets are modeling agencies and the have a good reason for doing so -- 15 to 30 pictures are clients of modeling agencies. more than enough to choose from for your portfolio, but only use 15 to 20 pictures as your main portfolio out of the 30 photos – and make sure you update it regularly Model Discovery with new work. One of the big myths which drives modeling photography Set your standards HIGH! You are only as good as your scams is that professional photos are needed to be dis- worst image; you must use a very critical eye when se- covered by a top agency. lecting any images to put in your modeling portfolio. You do not want to waste agency’s and potential client’s time Professional photos are not needed in order for someone by showing too many average photos. You only want to to be discovered by a top agency. It is the same for agen- show photos that have the ability to WOW your potential cies that are smaller agencies. Photos taken by a profes- clients. Pictures must show agents that you are worth it sional photographer are not needed for an agent to deter- for them to invest time and energy promoting you. mine if the agency would be interested to represent a model.

A good agent only needs a few Polaroid’s, one of the face (headshot), and one of the body (bodyshot).

Page 18 Page 7 TopmodelingPoses.Com TopModelingPoses.Com

How To Pick The Right Photographer Modeling Photography Scams "Our prior modeling cases were all about photos; you How many photographers do I need to work with? thought you were being selected as a model, but all they were trying to sell you was photos, these expensive Before picking a photographer to work with you should comp cards." -- Federal Trade Commission have a good idea of what type of modeling you would like to do. "If a so-called talent agent sends you to a particular photographer for pictures, hold your wallet tight and run for Runway modeling and fashion magazines require that the nearest exit! Chances are the 'agent' is a phony who you are to be 5”8 or taller. Models weights are changing makes money splitting the photographer's fee." -- Los constantly from 115 to 130 pounds. Angeles Office of the Consumer Protection Agency of the Federal Trade Commission Catalog modeling for photography covers a couple of "Steer clear of modeling companies that require you to different areas like full length use a specific photographer. Compare fees and the modeling, hand modeling and work quality of several photographers." -- Federal Trade feet modeling. Starting a height Commission for models should be 5”7 and up . Some of the biggest modeling scams are modeling photography scams. There are modeling scam artists mak- Product modeling or commer- ing millions from modeling photog- cial and industrial advertising raphy scams. They travel across and social or editorial require- the United States, hitting many ments have less restrictive re- cities, finding 100 people in each quirements for height due to the city to pay $1,000 for modeling many different types of products photos. and situations that occur in ad- Modeling photography scams are vertising those products. probably the modeling scams most likely to trick model hopefuls. As- It is not recommended to piring models already know or show nudity in your portfolio unless you are willing quickly recognize the importance to pursue that kind of modeling. of photos to launch their modeling career. Photos, after all, are what modeling is all about. However, many times the models and their parents know neither how many photos they need to get started, nor the kind of photos required.

Page 8 Page 17 TopmodelingPoses.Com TopModelingPoses.Com

Therefore, in States where laws do not allow agencies As a model just starting out you should try to work with as to require models to pay for advertising, requiring them many photographers as possible. You will get work with a to pay for advertising online is illegal. selection of pictures that show you at your best by showing your range of emotions and ability to portray various The regulations are clearly designed to prevent agen- looks. cies from making money off upfront fees, instead of or in addition to, commissions on work done by models. Different photographers will interpret your look differently depending on Advertising and promotion is the job and financial re- their artistic ability and experience with sponsibility of the agents and the agencies. If they truly working with a wide range of different have experience, skill, and contacts, and they sincerely types of models. believe a new model has real potential, they have to take the financial risks. The onus is on them to advertise If for any reason all photographs must and promote the model. be shot in one session by one photographer, you should work to attain different looks in all What About Modeling Scams ? photographs. If You've Got The Look, Look Out! A common problem you may face is not being able to Avoiding Modeling Scams afford to pay each photographer his fee to help build your portfolio, so your goal is to try to get photographers that What could be more flattering? Someone approaches will test with you. you at the mall and says, "You could be a model. You've got the 'look' we're after. Here's my So just what is testing and TFP? card. Give me a call to set up an appointment." People have always Testing is when a photographer will work with you TFP said you're good looking. Now, vi- (TIME FOR PRINTS) for the purpose of building his own sions of glamour, travel and money portfolio and help you add to your portfolio. Especially flash before your eyes. when the photographer himself is insufficiently skilled and requires practice working with models. Testing usually It's true that some successful mod- means, to share the cost of film and prints only. The els have been discovered in every- photographer should not pay models, and the model day places like malls, boutiques, should not pay the photographer. clubs, and airports. But the vast majority of would-be models knock

on door after agency door before

work comes their way.

Page 16 Page 9 TopmodelingPoses.Com TopModelingPoses.Com

The importance of securing legitimate and re- sponsible representation cannot Testing gives you the opportunity to work with photogra- be emphasized enough. Agents phers in front of the camera which will give you the ex- who ask you for money up front - perience not only to build your portfolio which would - whether it be for a photo ses- eventually help you to successfully work on projects in sion, composite, head sheet or the type of modeling you choose as your career. any other promotional tool -- should be avoided. A reputable In selecting a photographer to help build your portfolio agent will not ask you for money make sure the photographer has experience in photo- until you are making money -- graphing models and make sure you look at his work be- booking work as a result of what fore making a decision to test or pay for photography for the agency has made for you. your portfolio. That is the time to invest in a composite and in the agency It is very important to always work out ahead of time book and head sheet. Even then you will probably and in writing what you are getting and how much it not be asked for funds up front. These promo- will cost you when you’re finished. tional expenses will be deducted from future pay- checks. When testing with a photographer, he will want to do ex- perimental photography that will enhance his portfolio Employment/Talent/Modeling Agency Regulations in the which will enable him to increase his business. It is your United States job to make sure that you will also be able to walk away with the type of photos which will help you acquire a mod- Prospective models may automatically assume, natu- eling agency to pick you up as one of their models. You rally conclude, or be easily convinced advertising fees must communicate to the photographer, and agreed up are legitimate expenses to launch a modeling career. front, what you will need for your portfolio after he’s is Exposure, after all, is necessary, but, how can you get finished working on his project. exposure if you don't pay for advertising? And why should anyone else have to pay for advertising to get When testing with a photographer, models work? especially if you are very young, I rec- ommend always bringing someone There are different kinds of promotional materials or vis- you trust with you to the photo shoot. ual advertising for new and successful models, some of You do not have to model lingerie or which are industry standards and others which are occa- anything that you feel uncomfortable sionally used, such as photos, comp cards, post cards, with or which conflict with your culture portfolios, "books," and CDs. or religious beliefs. Page 10 Page 15 TopmodelingPoses.Com TopModelingPoses.Com

Virtually all successful models and actors work What is a Comp Card or a Zed Card? through managers, and generally use a talent agency that does not charge a fee payable in ad- Basically, it is your business card. It contains your vance for screen tests, photographs, acting or mod- modeling photos, either color or black and white, along eling lessons or other services. with your name, height, weight, measurements, and your agencies name, phone number or other informa- If you are signed as a client by a licensed talent tion. agency, you will pay such agency nothing until you work and then you will pay a percentage of your The photos should include a head shot, that looks like earnings as a performer - - BUT NOTHING IN AD- you, and two or three body shots in different types of VANCE. clothing or looks. Current California Labor law mandates that ONLY a licensed Talent Agent can book work for clients and charge a fee for that service.

So, be cautious of companies that place "Help Wanted" ads for models or actors, which usually state "No Experience Necessary", and then ask for advance fees of any kind.

SAG, the Screen Actors Guild, offers very similar advice for aspiring actors. They asked, "What is the difference between a legitimate talent agency and one whose purpose is to separate you from your money?" Their answer:

The legitimate talent agency does not charge a fee payable in advance for registering you, for resumes, for public relations services, for screen tests, for photographs, for acting lessons, or for many other services used to separate you from your money. If you are signed as a client by a legitimate talent agency, you will pay such agency nothing until you work and then 10 percent of your earnings as a performer — but nothing in advance.

Page 14 Page 11 TopmodelingPoses.Com TopModelingPoses.Com

Modeling Agencies What About Upfront Fees? What Is A Modeling Agency? "Upfront fees are illegal." -- "Tips on finding a reputable agent," The Consumer Guide to Modeling and Talent A modeling agency is a company that represent fash- Agencies by New York City Consumer ion models, who work for the fashion industry. These Affairs. agencies earn their income via commission, usually from the contractual arrangements they made with the • Extensive research has shown the model. common denominator in almost all modeling scams is upfront fees. The top agencies work with big-budget advertising agencies and fashion designers. They invest money • Precedent lawsuits against modeling into developing their talent so they can increase their companies by federal and state gov- status within the industry. These top agencies will help ernment as well as individuals have train models, get test shoots, layout invariably been filed against those which charged upfront fees. portfolios, and put together Comp- Cards (composition photo cards) and • Research into U.S. laws to protect con- other printed materials models need. sumers has shown almost every modeling agency law, regulation or rule They find work by presenting their ever enacted in America prohibits upfront fees. models to designers, photographers and ad agencies. They book the jobs, • Therefore the most simple test, the most important issue, billing for the jobs, and eventually pay and the first question to ask in determining whether or not the models for their time. By handling a modeling company is legitimate is: Are there any up- the details, an agency allows a model front fees? to focus on modeling and not on the business end. • Be suspicious if a company requires an upfront fee to serve as your agent. Industry terms models should be familiar with:

• The New York State Department of Consumer Affairs, Booking Agents which gives licenses to talent agencies, says: "Simply put, legitimate model and/or talent managers do not require Modeling agencies use booking departments to keep or request upfront fees." track of who uses models. The agency has a phone

that is manned and an office that a client can visit. • What these people do is travel across the country, stay in These agents also send out reminders for fresh comp fancy hotel rooms, advertise and get a bunch of people excited and take their money up front. cards. They advertise, do lunches, do cold calls and turn over stones to find available modeling gigs

• Do not pay any upfront fees to the agency's on the prom-

ise of getting any work in return. Page 12 Page 13 TopmodelingPoses.Com TopModelingPoses.Com

Contractual Agreements The most popular process is the open call, where an agency will advertise that on a certain Most agencies sign their top talent to contracts, which day, they will allow anyone to show up vary in length based on the model's industry status and for an interview. Depending on the popu- experience. However, because a good agency finds larity of the agency within the industry their models work and negotiates top price for their tal- and the advertising done by its agents, ent, they earn a commission (between 10% to 35%) of anywhere from several dozen to hun- every job they book on a model's behalf. dreds of candidates could attend an open call. It is not uncommon to have a Auditions and Open Calls line extending for several city blocks.

Modeling agencies will require new faces on a regular Fashion Campaigns basis. The number of models in an agency depends on the demand brought in by its agents and that number Models vie for the prestigious fashion campaigns, where changes throughout the year. To this end, modeling they get to model for a particular designer. One of the agencies advertise in local phone directories in order to most sought-after campaign is the fragrance campaign, remain visible. where a model can earn a substantial amount of money.

Each new model-screening process is different from Top Modeling agencies one agency to the next: In order to qualify as a top modeling agency, there are A dry call is where models mail unso- certain criteria: licited comp-cards to an agency. While this may work with smaller 1. The agency must be located in a top fashion capital for agencies, larger agencies are con- the simple reason that the most lucrative and prestigious stantly being inundated with these modeling assignments are there. These cities include: cards and frequently discard unsolic- New York, Milan, Paris, London, Tokyo, Sao Paulo and ited comp cards. Barcelona.

Another option is the walk-in, where 2. The agency is well-known and respected in the fashion a model calls for an appointment at industry, has a good reputation, in so far, as monitoring an agency and receives an interview agencies or governing bodies in their respective country, on that particular date and time. The model then has an such as the Better Business Bureau in the US and the opportunity to quickly review with the agent past experi- Association of Fashion Designers, or the group handling ence and show his or her portfolio. the city's fashion week.

3. The agency has directly provided a model with a lucrative assignment for a top fashion design house.