sign in sign up
<<
Home , Cornaredo Stadium, FC Lugano, FC Luzern, FC Thun, FC Vaduz, Iulian Filipescu

SWITZERLAND 2017-18

www.liberoguide.com 2017-18 www.liberoguide.com intr o

Letzigrund,

In addition, for 2018-19, the Swiss champions do not gain an automatic slot in the group stage of the Champions

Berne League. Local neutrals welcomed Berne’s early lead in 2017-18, bringing competition and variety. Dominated by FC since 2010, the footballing royalty, ‘GC’ now attract Sion, capital of the , home canton is wide open in gates of well under the league average of disgraced ex-FIFA boss Sepp Blatter, For foreign neutrals, away from the big 2017-18. Recent three-time runners-up of 11,000. is one of two current top-tier clubs from two in Basel and Berne, Swiss football The Great Escape, Young Boys of Berne are currently in the French-speaking Switzerland. With is a quaint throwback. No, it’s not box seat for a first title since 1986. St Gallen have long overtaken representing Italianate , cheap, but then nothing in Switzerland Grasshoppers as top dogs in the ten-team Swiss Super League is Like in Scotland, the modest size of the is. The beer will be decent, the cervelat Basel is the hotbed of Swiss football, Switzerland’s far north-east, up by the a microcosm of Switzerland’s (mainly) league means that teams meet each sausage too. its St Jakob Park, known by all as German border. Like several others, three-language divide. other more than once home and away. the ‘Joggeli’, providing the fieriest FCSG play in a new-build . This four-game fixture set-up has been Station to station atmosphere for the Swiss national team Supporters from six teams chant in the looked at by the Swiss Football League, Switzerland is well served by budget as well as FCB. The other populist side Some, such as Lausanne, , same quirky form of Alemannic German worried by the Basel monopoly and low airlines, with hubs in Basel, is FC Zürich, who share the Lugano and , have gorgeous Alpine that created the universal mantra to gates. Unlike in Scotland, the season and Zürich. Connecting all major stadium with record champions backdrops, within reach of a lake served back the national team, ‘Hopp Schwiiz!!’. isn’t split after Christmas. In 2017, Basel towns, Swiss Rail (sbb.ch/en/home. Grasshoppers. Once considered by sightseeing boats. We’re not in Hamburg anymore, Toto. won the title with six games to spare. html) offers Supersaver tickets online.

liberoguide.com 2 SWITZERLAND 2017-18 www.liberoguide.com

Letzigrund, Zürich Lugano intr

BASEL ZÜRICH o ST GALLEN

BERNE LUCERNE

THUN LAUSANNE The bottom two from each regional division of the 1.Liga Classic demote LUGANO SION to the amateur 2.Liga Interregional, currently consisting of six regional groups. Each winner goes up to the fourth flight at the end of the season.

Below this level, the Swiss league The last-placed team from the top FC Zürich cannot gain promotion to pyramid fans out into a myriad regional division drops into the second-tier the Challenge League – otherwise, the groups, from the sixth-flight 2.Liga to Those paying full fare can at least take Tables & trophies Challenge League. Also consisting of winners go up. the ninth-tier 5.Liga. advantage of the City-Ticket scheme The Swiss Super League consists of ten teams who play each other home that incorporates urban transport at ten teams who play each other home and away twice, the Challenge League The bottom two clubs of the The , the Schweizer Pokal, your destination and/or setting-off point. and away twice. As of 2017-18, the currently includes FC from Promotion League demote to the begins with qualifying rounds within winners no longer gain automatic , who can qualify for the fourth-tier 1.Liga. Their replacements each level of the nine-rung pyramid Areas not covered by rail are served admission into the group stage of the Europa League by winning the national are decided by play-off, as the – between the hundreds of clubs within by PostBus (www.postauto.ch/en), Champions League but must enter at cup organised by the tiny principality. 1.Liga (aka 1.Liga Classic or Erste the 2.Liga, the 3.Liga, and so on – before regional buses run by the Swiss Post the play-off round stage. Liga, Première Ligue, Prima Lega) 64 teams take part in August’s Round Office. Some are also the main transport The winners of the Challenge League comprises three regional groups, 1. This involves all Super League clubs provider in smaller towns, such as Thun. Super League runners-up join the swaps places with the lowest side roughly French-speaking West, from two seasons before, the previous Larger cities have a tram network. second qualifying round. The third- from the Super League, with no play- Central (German) and East (German, season’s top four from the Promotion placed side goes into the Europa off system in place. Similarly, the Italian and Liechtenstein). The top League, plus the 40 to have won through Swiss motorways require drivers to by League third qualifying round, the lowest-placed team in the second two from each of these divisions go by qualifying. an annual tax disc (vignette) of SF40, fourth-placed, the second qualifying tier demotes to the third rung, the forward to the eight-team play-off valid from December 1 of the previous round. Unless the winners of the Swiss Promotion League, whose 16 teams round, accompanied by the two best In 2017-18, ninth-tier Montfaucon year to January 31 of the following one. Cup have already qualified for the face each other on the traditional third-placed finishers. Play-offs are (population 629) made Round 1, only to They are sold at petrol stations, post Champions League, then they go into home-and-away basis. The reserve home-and-away, the semi-finals lose 21-0 to Neuchâtel. As for Rounds offices and customs posts. the group stage of the Europa League. sides of top clubs such as Basel and producing four winners, the finals two. 2 and 3, the draw is seeded, lower-level

liberoguide.com 3 SWITZERLAND 2017-18 www.liberoguide.com

Lugano intr o

Au Celtique

Facilities are generally excellent, with Contents beer and wine sold at stadium bars. 5 Basel

Gabbani, Lugano With Lausanne’s new ground in 2019, 6 FC Basel and the overhaul of for Euro 7 Berne 2008, you’ll see the game in comfort, 8 Young Boys clubs granted home advantage, ties summer the following June. All stops than the Super League’s, everything perhaps with an Alpine backdrop. 9 Lausanne decided over one game, with extra-time for the winter break before Christmas, re-starting in early February and 10 Lausanne Sport and penalties if required. the spring season starting up in early running until mid to late May. Welcome to liberoguide.com! 11 Lucerne February and running until mid to The digital travel guide for football fans, 12 FC Luzern Giantkilling is rare. The quarter-finals late May. Match days are Saturdays Entry level liberoguide.com is the most up-to-date 13 Lugano are also one-game affairs, invariably and Sundays, the usual kick-off Apart from big games involving FC Basel resource, city-by-city, club-by-club, to 14 FC Lugano involving top-flight clubs. Semi-finals times being 4pm or 7pm. Occasional and Young Boys Berne, availability is the game across Europe. Using only 15 St Gallen are over one leg, home advantage midweek games, on Wednesdays and rarely a problem and pay-on-the-day original photos and first-hand research, 16 FC St Gallen drawn for. The final in May is staged at a Thursdays, are scheduled for 8pm. the norm. Cash payments are in Swiss taken and undertaken over five seasons, 17 Sion showcase stadium, the Stade de Suisse francs. Nearly all clubs offer advance liberoguide.com has been put together 18 FC Sion in Berne or the Stade de Genève. The Challenge League sychronises sales, online and in person. to enhance every football weekend and 19 Thun its July kick-off with the top tier. The Euro night experience. From airport to 20 FC Thun Season’s dealings weekly schedule runs from Friday to A place behind the goals is usually arena, downtown sports bar to hotel, 21 Zürich The Swiss Super League starts early, Monday evenings at 7pm and 8pm. around SF25, prices rising to around liberoguide.com helps you get the best 22 Letzigrund usually in late July, even as early as Some Sunday games start at 4pm. The SF50-SF60 on the sidelines. Home fans out of your visit to football’s furthest 23 Grasshoppers the third week if it’s a tournament winter break comes a week earlier generally have a standing area. corners and showcase stadiums. 24 FC Zürich

liberoguide.com 4 SWITZERLAND 2017-18 Basel www.liberoguide.com/basel

Basel SBB station tramline for St Jakob, the Radisson Basel Blu, has a pool and gym.

Also central but cheaper, the Stadthof near Barfüsserplatz occupies a land- mark building dating back to 1295.

By picturesque Rheingasse, the historic Hotel Merian am Rhein has balconied rooms overlooking the river.

Hotels surround the SBB station. These include upscale chains such as the Dorint as well as traditional railway hotels such as the Euler, the Schweiz- runs to the main Basel SBB (Swiss rail) erhof and the Victoria. The conversion station. Tickets are available from the of the venerable Helvetia to the self desk in Arrivals or the machine at the check-in b-smart motel Basel, how- stop outside the terminal. ever, is a sign of the times.

Based near St Jakob, Taxi-Zentrale (+41 Beer 61 222 2222) charges SF45 from airport Barfüsserplatz is lined with restau-

Hotel Euler to city. rants and cafés – the timeless Rio (No.12) the best bar, the beerhall of German trains use Basel Bad station, on Zum Braunen Mutz the best pub. Turkey. Four months later, Basel faced The St Jakob stadium was built for the the other side of the Rhine. Basel their historic cousins FC Barcelona in 1954 World Cup, seeing 44 goals in For TV sport, Swiss pub chain Mr Pick- the Champions League.The two clubs six games. These included the hosts City transport consists of trams and wick is central and displays seriously Basel may adjoin France and Germany were formed by the same man, Jo- dumping Italy out of the competition, buses. A day pass is SF9.90, a single recherché retro football artefacts. but this Rhine river port is the hotbed hannes (‘Hans’) Kamper, a young Swiss 4-1. The game established the Joggeli’s ticket SF3.80 but local hotels offer a Nearby Jerry’s is where the Swiss go of Swiss football. St Jakob Park, home entrepreneur. On November 12, 1893, credentials as a real football ground, Mobility Ticket giving checking-in to watch big matches. It’s also a decent of eight-time consecutive champions he saw an ad in the ‘National-Zeitung’ with crowd scenes never before seen in guests free use of public transport. late-night cocktail spot. The prominent FC Basel and stage for the 2016 Europa asking to form a football club, FC Basel. sleepy Switzerland. Irish bar, big on sport, is Paddy Reilly’s League Final, has the country’s fieriest Five years later, business took Kamper Bed near the station. atmosphere. to Barcelona. There he became Joan Bearings The Basel Tourist Office (www.basel. Gamper and founded FC Barcelona. Basel-Mulhouse-Freiburg Airport com/en) has a hotel-booking service. On Rheingasse, Fischerstube is a The ‘Joggeli’ was rebuilt for Euro 2008, Back home, Basel didn’t become a is actually in France, 6km (4 miles) homely old bar that serves its own Ueli staging the opening match and dramatic regular on the European circuit until north-west of Basel. Bus No.50 (every There are no hotels near the stadium. lager – regulars take turns to play the semi-final, Germany’s 3-2 win over the 1970s. 8-10min, 17min journey time, SF4.70) Close to Aeschenplatz on the No.14 piano.

liberoguide.com 5 SWITZERLAND 2017-18 FC Basel www.liberoguide.com/fc-basel

St Jakob Park Tickets Basel fc There’s a ticket office (Mon-Fri 9.30am- 6.30pm, Sat 9am-6pm) at the back of the club shop behind Stand A. Online sales are German-language only.

The best seats in Stand A are SF65- SF75, while a decent spot in Stand C opposite is SF48-SF59. Tickets behind the goals, and in the away sector are SF25.

Shop & Museum wisdom of holding the 2016 Europa Behind Stand A, the FC Basel Shop League Final at such a relatively small (Mon-Fri 9.30am-6.30pm, Sat 9am- arena was questioned. 6pm, match days) stocks souvenirs from doormats to FCB-branded Today’s Joggeli comprises four stands, condoms. lettered A-D, A being the main stand

St Jakob Park with the best seats, and bars and At the back of the main store is a ticket restaurants behind it. Stands B and office, beside which is a discreet FCB home end D are behind the goals. Away Museum. Among the artefacts is a This is not the elegant St Jakob built for fans are allocated sectors B1 and B2 photo of the teams before Basel took FC Basel the 1954 World Cup, but a late 1990s between Stand A and B. on the great Uruguay side, Olympic rebuild, inaugurated in 2001, for Euro champions in 1924. Formed in 1893 by Hans Kamper, the 2008. Transport later Joan Gamper who also founded The St Jakob has its own train station Bars FC Barcelona, FC Basel (fcb.ch/en- Set beside a railway line and the St behind Stand C, with a regular direct The only venue near the ground is the US/Home) are the top dogs of Swiss Alban stream, it allowed little room for connection (8min) with Basel SBB Wirtshaus St Jakob (St.Jakobs-Straße football. Title winners eight times expansion when Basel was awarded station on match days only. 377), a traditional restaurant that has running, FC Basel have dominated hosting rights for Euro 2008. The Basel Fan Shop/Museum been serving guests since 1526. the Swiss game since the turn of the solution was to rebuild. Regular transport is provided by millennium. tram No.14 (direction Pratteln) that At the stadium, behind Stand A, the Carried out by Basel-based architects While capacity for Euro 2008 was runs every 7min from downtown Rotblau Bar-Bistro is decorated with FCB’s 38,500-capacity St Jakob Park, or Herzog & De Meuron, of Tate Modern 42,500, seats were later removed Barfüsserplatz eight stops away. It also old sports cuttings outside, and tasteful ‘Joggeli’, is two miles south-east of the and Allianz Arena fame, this cost of to provide more spectator comfort, passes through Aeschenplatz, linked football iconography. Menfolk can lay city centre, part of a shopping complex reconstruction was SF 220 million, reducing the maximum accommodation by tram No.15 to the station. Allow 10- into big burgers and Schlossgold beers and opposite a group of sports halls and creating a three-floor retail complex to 38,500. Considering the huge 12min from town. The tram drops you while kids get their own menu and a pitches. of some 30 shops. numbers heading from Liverpool, the right by Main Stand A. table football table.

liberoguide.com 6 SWITZERLAND 2017-18 Berne www.liberoguide.com/berne

Berne Berne

Outside the Stade de Suisse in Berne stands a reconstructed version of the famous Longines clock that timed matches here when this was the

Wankdorfstadion. Leichtsinn

The scoreline on it reads ‘Ungarn 2 Deutschland 3’. The World Cup Final Finally the hostel-like Hotel Glocke of 1954, a shock German win over a at Rathausgasse 75 has a mix of previously unbeatable Hungary one singles, doubles and multi-bed rooms wet July afternoon, changed football with shared bathrooms, plus private history. doubles.

Set in the middle of Switzerland, Beer easily accessible from the main Bars dot the Old Town. Many gather airports of Basel and Zürich, this on the terrace of the Leichtsinn at charming, cobbled capital hosted Kornhausplatz 10 to watch match three matches for Euro 2008, the action – inside is an intimate, two- Wankdorf knocked down to make way floor contemporary space. for the eco-friendly Stade de Suisse. Round the corner, Rathausgasse is

A regular venue for the Swiss Cup GOAL lined with cellar bars, most only open Final, Berne is also home of Young after dark. Boys (www.bscyb.ch). Eleven times league champions, Young Boys have Taxi (+41 31 312 12 12) offers day pass. Public transport is free for more budget-conscious Ibis Budget At the edge of the Old Town, GOAL been placed in the top three of the airport transfers for SF49 into town. match-ticket holders for three hours Bern Expo stands alongside. at Junkerngasse 1 is a football bar Swiss Super League nine times in the before kick-off and two hours after. with a YB bent, where Swiss, Italian, ten years since 2008. YB will again be A direct train service runs from Zürich Also in the vicinity at Militärstraße 38, German, English and Spanish top- knocking on the door come May 2018. Airport (1hr 25min) and Basel station Bed the Hotel Jardin is a traditional, mid- league matches are screened in (1hr) to Berne, a short stroll to the The Berne Tourist Office (bern.com/ range lodging with its own restaurant. a cellar that once hosted a Louis Bearings centre. The Stade de Suisse is over en/detail/tourist-information) has a In the Old Town. Equally old-school Armstrong aftershow in 1955. Berne airport is 9km (5.5 miles) the river north-east of town. hotel-booking service. hotels include the historic Hotel Bern Other soccer-friendly spots include south-east of town, used by Berne- The nearest hotel to the Stade de at Zeughausgasse 9, the Goldener Mr Pickwick on Wallgasse near based SkyWork for business Buses and trams form Berne’s Suisse is the four-, business- Schlüssel at Rathausgasse 72 and the station and, on Spitalgasse, the connections with London City, Bristol transport network. A single ticket friendly Hotel Novotel Bern Expo, by the more affordable Metropole at Nelson, both Berne branches of and Southampton. is SF2.60, SF13 for six journeys or a the terminus of the No.9 tram. The Zeughausgasse 26. nationwide chains.

liberoguide.com 7 SWITZERLAND 2017-18 Young Boys www.liberoguide.com/young-boys

Eleven 9am-5pm) in the Wankdorf Center, b o Young Papiermühlestraße 85, also distributes.

Online sales are dealt with by Eventim and TicketCorner.

On match days, kiosks on three y s corners of the stadium open 90min before kick-off. Kassenhaus 1 on Papiermühlestraße and Kassenhaus 3 on Sempachstraße then close 15min before the match starts, Kassenhaus 2 stays open. Home fans gather behind the goal in the Ostkurve, even-numbered sectors D2- Prices start at SF25 to stand in the D14 standing. Away fans are allocated home end, Tribüne D sectors, and SF35 B12-B15 in a corner of the opposite to sit – places limited. In Tribüne B end. The best seats and boxes are behind the opposite goal, it’s SF35, and accessed through Quartierplatz, the SF25 for away fans in the Gästesektor, pedestrianised square containing the B13 and B15. Restaurant Eleven. Along the sidelines in Tribüne A or C, Transport prices run from SF45 to SF70 for prime Wankdorfstadion/ Stade de Suisse Bern Wankdorf S-Bahn stop is by the seats. stadium, 5min from Bern main station on lines S1, S2, S3, S31 and S44. Shop Built in 1925, the then 22,000-capacity Wankdorf was closed in 2001, Swiss At the YB-Fanshop (Mon-Fri noon- Young Boys Wankdorf, named after this area of watchmakers Longines renovated the Alternatively, tram No.9 leaves every 6.30pm, Sat 9am-noon, 1pm-5pm, north-east Berne, was remodelled and famous clock from 1954 to stand outside 5-10min from outside the station (eight match days) in the Wankdorf Center, The flagship club of the Swiss capital, expanded to a 64,000-capacity stadium the new Stade de Suisse, a high-tech stops, 10min), via the main square of Gäub-Schwarz paraphernalia includes Young Boys (bscyb.ch) are regular top- worthy of staging a World Cup final. On rebuild. Built for Euro 2008, the Stade Zytglogge (6 stops, 7min). T-shirts bearing the foundation date of three finishers – but have only won the July 4 1954, all-conquering Hungary opened in 2005, solar panels covering an 1898, plus replica shirts. title once in modern times. fell to West Germany, a turning point in artificial pitch and 32,000 seats. Tickets football history. Ticketing (Mon-Fri 8am-noon, 1pm- Bars The Gäub-Schwarz were founded in Attracting Switzerland’s second biggest 5pm) at Papiermühlestraße 71 (third By the stadium on Quartierplatz, Eleven 1898 by students from Berne University, Three years later, YB won their first crowds after Basel, YB have put in floor) sells advance tickets, including (Mon-Fri 8.30am-11pm, Sat 5pm-11pm, inspired by Basel’s Old Boys in yellow of four consecutive championships. credible title challenges, gained a draw by email ([email protected]) from14 Sun match days only) offers quality and black. Early success led to the This side also made the semi-final of with Liverpool and wins over Napoli and days before the game. The YB- Italian food, live match screenings and construction of the Wankdorfstadion. the European Cup in 1959. When the Udinese in the Europa League. Fanshop (Mon-Fri noon-6.30pm, Sat YB souvenirs.

liberoguide.com 8 SWITZERLAND 2017-18 Lausanne www.liberoguide.com/lausanne

Behind the Continental at rue du Petit- L ausanne Chêne, the Alpha Palmiers features a Thai restaurant, sauna and hammam. Under the same umbrella, behind the station, chic Agora Swiss Night is Swiss-themed down to its cow-print armchairs while stablemate Swiss Wine opened in 2016 by Bessières métro with

Hôtel de la Paix its own wine bar.

Classic Hôtel de la Paix has stood at the airport rail terminus, a regular train avenue Benjamin-Constant 5 for over to Lausanne takes 50 minutes (SF14). a century. By Flon, LHOTEL comprises 26 rooms tucked into a tall townhouse, Lausanne station is south of the city plus a rooftop bar. centre, connected as Lausanne-Gare to the bus and metro network. One stop Beer away on métro M2 is central Lausanne- Pubs dot the commercial quarter Flon. You’ll need a bus for the stadium, downtown, around rues Saint-Pierre, it’s too far to walk. A single ticket from Enning and Caroline. On rue Enning, machines is SF3.70, a short journey the Captain Cook offers match of three stops or under SF2.30, ideal screenings and table football. from the station to Flon, but not to the stadium. By Riponne/M.Béjart on the M2 line, The Great Escape wins most votes as Local hotels offer a free transport pass best bar in town, a freehouse showing Lausanne station to guests. English Premier action.

FA in 1895. Montriond became main In 2002, LS were relegated after 70 Pronto Taxi Lausanne can be called on Near Flon at place Pépinet, McCarthy’s Lausanne football team in Lausanne. In 1904, they years. Then followed bankruptcy and +41 79 297 21 06. Irish Pub shows different games on moved to La Pontaise north of town. the creation of Lausanne Sport, who several plasma screens. Opening On the northern shores of Lake Geneva It became a proper ground in 1926, by joined the top flight in 2011. Bed hours stretch to 2am on Fridays and in French-speaking Switzerland, Olympic which time Montriond were Lausanne Lausanne Tourisme (www.lausanne- Saturdays. capital Lausanne has connections with Sports, LS to all. By 2019, LS will move to the Stade de la tourisme.ch/en) has an online football dating back longer than almost Tuilière, near Lausanne Airport. hotel-reservation service through Near the station, Les Gosses du Québec anywhere else in Europe. In either La Pontaise was rebuilt for the 1954 booking.com. Opposite the station, the leans more towards than 1860 or 1880, English students created World Cup as the Stade Olympique, Bearings Continental is a business-friendly four- soccer but it’s a classic sports bar Lausanne-Football and Cricket Club, hosting Hungary’s 4-2 semi-final victory The nearest airport is Geneva 69km (43 star. The nearby Victoria offers a gym nonetheless, lined with pool tables and one of the ten who formed the Swiss over Uruguay. miles) south-west of Lausanne. From and a pay-for sauna. decorated with framed shirts.

liberoguide.com 9 SWITZERLAND 2017-18 Lausanne Sport www.liberoguide.com/lausanne-sport lausanne sport lausanne Restaurant Lausanne Sport

Official capacity is 15,700 reduced for A seat in the main Tribune Interima domestic league fixtures, Blocs Est and is SF49, opposite in the Tribune Ouest empty except for the single away Bertholet+Mathis SF30. LS fans pay sector. SF25 to stand in Bloc N, away fans the same to sit in the Secteur Visiteurs. Transport The Stade Olympique has its own Shop Stade de la Pontaise stop on frequent bus line No.1, ten Inside the main entrance, the match- from Lausanne-Gare outside the train day Boutique du Lausanne Sport station, journey time 15min. On the sells woollen hats with or without a years came in the 1950s, a packed Stade , helped drive an way back, if by chance you miss one, pompom, Allez Lausanne flags, branded Lausanne Sport Olympique enthralled by ‘King’ Richard unexpected run in the Europa League. stroll the short distance down the hill umbrellas and corkscrews. Dürr. Head of the‘Seigneurs de la Nuit’ In 2011, LS joined the Swiss elite for the to Casernes, and pick up the No.3 that Known as LS, revived Lausanne Sport team, Dürr led LS to the title in 1965. first time since the ignominy of 2002. terminates at Lausanne-Gare. Bars (lausanne-sport.ch) are based at La Near Casernes bus stop, two venues sit Pontaise – for the time being. Opened The club’s next key figure was Stéphane The Stade Olympique comprises the Tickets on avenue de la Pontaise: Swish Gate in 1904, converted into the Stade Chapuisat, who had spent his first three main Tribune Interima (Nord) and facing Advance tickets are distributed at 11.11 at No.52 is equipped with a lounge Olympique for the 1954 World Cup, the seasons at LS, returning in 2005-06. Tribune Bertholet+Mathis (Sud) along outlets of TicketCorner such as the bar and a TV while at No.48, Les Alliés is stadium will soon be knocked down and By then, bankrupt Lausanne Sports the sidelines, Blocs Est and Ouest CFF ticket office at the train station. a neat café in the blue-and-white of LS. LS move even further north to the new- were Lausanne Sport, and in the lowest behind each goal. The club’s English-language online build Stade de la Tuilière, in 2019. ranks. The prodigal Chapuisat pushed sales service (www.lausanne-sport.ch/ At the stadium, by the main entrance LS closer to top-flight promotion. Home supporters stand in the Bloc tickets-english/#) also goes through the Restaurant Lausanne Sport is now Local teenagers founded Montriond Lausannois, sector N, by the Tribune TicketCorner. Tickets are available on a decent eaterie, while the Tennis Club Football Club in 1896, renamed A surprise appearance in the Swiss Cup Sud. Away fans are allocated sector 3, the day, from the windows by the main serves sought-after Boxer beer from Lausanne Sports in 1920. The golden final in 2010, and return of the influential the Bloc Visiteurs, in Bloc/Tribune Est. entrance. Yverdon on the shores of Lake Geneva.

liberoguide.com 10 SWITZERLAND 2017-18 Lucerne www.liberoguide.com/lucerne

In town, the Luzernerhof on Alpenstraße lu is a reliable mid-range choice close c erne to the lake. Nearby Rebstock on St Leodegarstraße has a sister operation the Hotel Hofgarten on Stadthofstraße.

Overlooking the lake and the Chapel Bridge, the Hôtel des Alpes is classier (and pricier) than its three-star Hotel Spatz status might indicate. Alongside, the Pickwick is attached to the chain pub of the same name, with simpler, cheaper rooms, all with waterfront views and most with balconies.

Beer Perhaps because of its location in the middle of Switzerland, this city with

Chapel Bridge one Swiss title to its name has plenty of football bars. Eichhof is the local beer. Boat restaurants offer it with a view – A valid match ticket allows free use though at a price. of the bus or S-Bahn to and from the

Lake Lucerne stadium for up to three hours before and Pick of the pubs is Legends Luzern. Run after the game. by the indefatigable Billy, it is a tucked away near the lake on Löwenstraße. minutes, to the site of the old Stadion Bearings Ernst Hess taxis (+41 41 310 10 10) are Nearby Anfield Pub (Seehofstraße 7) is Lucerne Allmend that served the club from 1934. The nearest airport is Zürich 67km (41.5 based near the swissporeana. a somewhat predictably themed sports miles) away. One train an hour runs bar, busy for big matches. The lakeside resort of Lucerne is as Overlooked for the 1954 World Cup and directly from Zürich Airport to Lucerne Bed pretty a setting as you’ll find for a Euro 2008, railway hub Lucerne is set 1hr away, tickets SF28. The Lucerne Tourist Office (www.luzern. The Lucerne branch of Swiss chain Mr football match – even in Switzerland. in the heart of Switzerland, convenient com/en/index.cfm) has a hotel-booking Pickwick sticks to the standard formula Home of flagship club FC Luzern (fcl.ch/ from Zurich, Berne and Basel. Buses comprise the public transport. A service. of its counterparts but also offers an home), the swissporeana is not lakeside single ticket is SF3.20, a day pass SF6.40. unsurpassable view of the lake from its but close to snow-capped mountains, A top-flight proposition since 2006, The Swissporaeana is in the same zone The only hotel near the stadium is the terrace. It has rooms upstairs. and by a classic Swiss chalet restaurant. FC Luzern have lost three cup finals 101 as Lucerne station. There’s an Spatz, with its own restaurant. Prices in recent years but, in Swiss terms, S-Bahn regional train network that also are about 20% higher in high season, On the other bank on Wagenbachgasse, A city bus takes you there from manage to attract healthy crowds, quite serves the stadium. A single ticket is which runs between April and October the Irish-run Shamrock Irish Pub has a Lucerne’s busy station in less than ten used to European football. SF3, day pass SF6. inclusive. raised terrace in the Old Town.

liberoguide.com 11 SWITZERLAND 2017-18 FC Luzern www.liberoguide.com/fc-luzern

Horwerstraße. Visiting fans should use L FC kiosk No.5, cash only.

Online sales operate through the uzern Eventim (eventimsports.de/ols/ fcluzern) via the club website.

For domestic fixtures, standing tickets (B Tribüne) are SF28. Seats alongside are SF33, SF41 behind the opposite goal (D Tribüne), and SF58 in the sideline C Tribüne. Seats in the A Tribüne are SF62-100. Visiting fans are charged a Transport flat SF28 for a seat in sector C6. The transport stop by the stadium is for the No.20 bus (every 7min). It takes For all-seated European games, 7min from Lucerne train station, where admission is cheaper at SF43-70 in A, the stop is clearly marked near the SF23 in B, SF29 in D, and SF41-48 in C. archway. Away fans are charged SF20.

Alternatively, towards town by the Shop roundabout, Allmend/Messe S-Bahn You’ll find toy FCL lions amid the blue is one stop south on the S4 (direction T-shirts and kits at the FCL-Fanshop Stans or Wolfenschlessen) and S5 (Mon-Fri 9am-6pm) behind D Tribüne. (direction Giswil) lines from Lucerne

station. Trains leave every 15min, Bars usually from platform 14. By the stadium, the Wirtschaft zum Schützenhaus is a traditional long envied the success of Basel or Completed in 2011, it comprises a A match ticket allows use of the bus or restaurant in Swiss chalet style. FC Luzern Grasshopper Zürich. distinctive gold-tinted exterior, with S-Bahn to and from the stadium for up interior seating in blue, FCL lettering to three hours either side of the game. Allmend (Moosmattstraße 51) is Europa League competitors in 2017-18, FCL had the courage to invest in the clearly outlined. For domestic fixtures, attached to the bowling alley where FCL FC Luzern (www.fcl.ch) have rarely set future, the €65 million swissporarena, 3,000 standing places fill sectors B2-3 Tickets players changed in the park-pitch days. the Swiss League alight but can count replacing the venerable Allmend in the home end, B Tribüne (blue). Advance tickets are sold at the FCL- on a loyal and lively fan base. on the club’s 110th anniversary. Fanshop (Mon-Fri 9am-6pm) behind On Horwerstraße, the Militärgarten Architects Daniel Marques and Iwan Away fans are allocated C6, at the other D Tribüne and at the LZ-Corner of the was opened before FCL were founded. FCL have only three major trophies Bühler created a contemporary, end of Tribüne C (red), facing the main ‘Neue Luzerner Zeitung’ (Pilatusstraße Scarves decorate a wooden interior, to their name, one title and two cups, 17,000-capacity venue also suitable for stand, Tribüne A (yellow). Tribüne D 12) in town. On match days, kiosks 1 where Eichhof and Hubertus dark ale and their fans in blue-and-white have Switzerland internationals. (green) is behind the other goal. and 2 operate behind A Tribüne on main are served. It has a terrace, too.

liberoguide.com 12 SWITZERLAND 2017-18 Lugano www.liberoguide.com/lugano

Trinity lugano

Olimpia

(valid 30min) is SF1.90, a day pass set around a pre-war delicatessen, (carta giornaliera) SF7.20. You’ll need a Mediterranean restaurant and bar. bus for the stadium. Some hotels offer free public transport if you book a room Also in the centre, the Pestalozzi through their website. hides recently rooms behind a historic façade. Nearby, the family-run Zurigo Taxi Luganese (+41 91 967 24 24) is a Garni has been in operation since 1951. reliable local firm. By the station, the Continental

Seven Bed Parkhotel echoes the steam era. Lugano Turismo (luganoturismo.ch) has online booking. Beer Still based at the same quaint Milan’s Malpensa and Linate airports On the main square, piazza Riforma, Lugano municipal stadium, i Bianco-Neri are 90km (56 miles) and 100km (62 For age-old hospitality by the the classic Olimpia dates back to 1845, enjoyed a run in the Europa League in miles) from Lugano. Lugano Servizi waterfront, the classic Hotel its lived-in bar where older Lugano By the pretty lake of the same name, in 2017-18. and Malpensa Express buses run International has an outdoor pool supporters meet. On the waterfront, the Italian-speaking region of Ticino by 10-12 times a day between Malpensa in summer while the Walter Au Lac the Bar Vela has sport on TV and tables Switzerland’s twisting border with its The Cornaredo is also home to Rapid terminals 1-2 and piazzale Besso Lugano features a roof terrace. outside overlooking the lake. southern neighbour, Lugano is more Lugano, in the regional Ticino divisions. in Lugano (1hr 20min journey time, suited to pleasure boats, Eurovision The stadium is almost as close to €25/€40 return). There is no direct Set back from the waterfront, the San Further round the lake, chic Seven Song Contests and financial services the Italian border as it is to Lugano’s public transport from Linate to Lugano. Carlo is a more affordable two-star is a sport-forward lounge bar, with than football. landmark casino. and, by the foot of the funicular, the a waterfront terrace. Upscale chatty From Milano Centrale, a EuroCity train Acquarello Swiss Quality Hotel is Bistro Lugano near the Hotel Zurigo FC Lugano found success in the 1940s. Bearings takes 1hr 10min, internet price €23. another handy and affordable find. Garni buzzes during aperitivi hour. The Stadio Cornaredo was built for Lugano Airport 4km (2.5 miles) west Lugano station stands high over the Nearby, the Hotel Lugano Dante is the 1954 World Cup, 24,000 Italians of town receives regular services from city, connected by funicular. City buses a notch-above four-star. Round the Irish pub Trinity is at via Canonica 19, cheered a 4-1 win over Belgium. Zürich and Geneva. serve town and station. A single ticket corner, Gabbani is an urban lodging by a waterway that leads from the lake.

liberoguide.com 13 SWITZERLAND 2017-18 FC Lugano www.liberoguide.com/fc-lugano

FC Lugano FC LUGANO

The biggest club in Ticino, Ital- ian-speaking Switzerland, FC Lugano (fclugano.com) are enjoying a modest revival. Swiss Cup finalists in 2016, the Bianconeri came within a point of qualification from the group stage of the Europa League in 2017.

In 2003, Lugano had been forcibly relegated, then declared bankrupt. A new outfit, AC Lugano, was created, formed of under-21 players. In 2004, it merged with nearby FC Malcantone Agno, and became FC Lugano, again, in 2008.

The Bianconeri last won the Swiss title in 1949. Lugano then prepared for 1954 Stadio Cornaredo World Cup hosting by building a new ground. As elegant today as when it opened in 1951, the Stadio Cornaredo The Stadio Cornaredo also hosts lower- the stadium or via national agency Shop Behind the Sud, the Buvette is a classic Swiss stadium backdropped league Rapid Lugano – supporters have ticketcorner which also distributes The main outlet is the Lugano Store, Rapid is a small, basic bar with a by dramatic hillsides and under their own bar behind the Curva Sud. online. On match days, tickets are sold a match-day kiosk behind the Tribuna terrace overlooking the adjoining seemingly permanent bright blue skies. at the kiosks behind each goal. Monte Brè. FCL shirts with the cool V training pitch. There’s also a Buvette Transport across the chest come in black, white Monte Brè on match days, serving local Crowds have dropped dramatically From Lugano station, lines No.4 and The cheapest seats (SF25) are in the and red versions and there are also the Luganighetta spiral sausages. since the 1950s but the graceful main No.6 take 10min to reach the stadium. Spalti, the areas either side of the standard frilly pennants, scarves and stand, the Tribuna Centrale, remains, From Lugano Centro, on via Pestalozzi central seats in the main stand, as far keyrings. The main venues are the Osteria on via Trevano that runs from town. near the Hotel Zurigo Garni, the No.7 as the home and away sectors behind Bianconero and adjoining Bar Lugano also takes 10min. The No.3 from via each goal. Bars behind the main stand. The restaurant Opposite, the Tribuna Monte Brè holds Pestalozzi runs along the waterfront, a Behind the Curva Nord, the Pizzeria operates during the week until early almost half the current 6,330 capacity. pretty ride to the ground 15min away. A seat in the Tribuna Monte Brè is SF40, Resega (via Sanvico 1) has been in the evening. Each end is open to the elements, home under-14s SF15, under-6s free. The Albieri family for decades. A lovely little ultras gathered in the Curva Nord, up to Tickets main stand is divided into the Tribuna tavern run by an equally affable old For match days, reserve via 800 away supporters accommodated in Tickets are sold from the club office Laterale (settore 1 & 4, SF65) and landlord, it offers wood-fired pizzas and [email protected]. The bar the Curva Sud. (Mon-Fri 9am-noon, 2pm-5pm) at Centrale (settore 2 & 3, SF80). Feldschlösschen beer. serves Calanda beer from .

liberoguide.com 14 SWITZERLAND 2017-18 St Gallen www.liberoguide.com/st-gallen

Café Hörnli close, New Star also has its own car S

park. Staying near the stadium means t G allen that you’ll be far from town.

Near St Gallen station, the Metropol has been serving rail travellers for over a century while the four-star Walhalla St Gallen features a popular brasserie.

By Marktplatz, traditional Hotel Am Ring gleams with historic chintz. Across the street, the Weisses Kreuz offers mid-range rooms and a modern bar.

Am Spisertor by the station of the same name comprises 12 basic rooms with limited reception hours at weekends.

Beer A bar hub clusters around Augustinergasse, Engelgasse and

St Gallen O-Five Pub Metzgergasse near Marktplatz. On Metzgergasse, Gallus offers those watching a whole St Gallen game a free Grün-Weißen then went almost an western outskirts of town, was renamed pass via the station near the city centre. drink should the Green-and-Whites win. St Gallen entire century trophy-less. . Match-ticket holders and many local The traditional Hörnli on Marktplatz hotel guests travel for free. A single is where the meeting took place to The tranquil shores of Lake Constance The club’s long-term home was Bearings ticket is otherwise SF2.40, a day pass form FC St Gallen. Nearby, the Süd that divide Switzerland from Germany Espenmoos, its record attendance The nearest international airport to Tageskarte SF6.40. Based near St Bar attracts young hipsters with varied and Austria are where football took root of 16,200 set in 1985 with the visit of St Gallen is Zürich 87km (54 miles) Gallen station, Herold Taxi (+41 71 2222 beers and cocktails until the early in Europe. On the Swiss side, St Gallen Internazionale in the UEFA Cup. Fifteen away. A half-hourly train runs direct 777) accepts credit cards. hours. Behind it, Seeger is another St is home to the oldest club side still in years later, it witnessed St Gallen lift from the airport to St Gallen, journey Gallen landmark, a bar/restaurant with existence on the Continent. their first league title in 96 years. time 50min-1hr, single SF14.50. If Bed a popular terrace. you’re going straight to kybunpark St Gallen Bodensee Tourist On 19 April 1879, an advert in the St St Gallen’s senior side moved out to stadium, the hourly ICN train allows Information (www.st.gallen-bodensee. Towards the station, the O-Five Pub on Galler Tagblatt announced a meeting a new-build on the eve of Euro 2008, you to change at Gossau for Winkeln, ch/en) has a hotel database and Poststraße provides jugs of Guinness at the Hörnli restaurant, with a view to Switzerland christening the AFG Arena and reach the stadium in 1hr from booking function. Near kybunpark to go with the European match action. starting a football club. FC St Gallen with a 3-0 win over Liechtenstein. the airport. Otherwise, change at St stadium, the hotel one66 is a handy Behind Spisertor, Da Sláinte Inn goes duly won the Swiss title in 1904. The Before 2016-17, the stadium, at the Gallen main station.All local buses three-star with weekend deals. Also more for live music than sport.

liberoguide.com 15 SWITZERLAND 2017-18 FC St Gallen www.liberoguide.com/fc-st-gallen

St Gallen store Shop S FC The main FC St Gallen store (Mon-Sat 9am-5pm, match days 2hrs before kick-

off 30min after final whistle) is in the t G allen Shopping Arena by the Eingang West.

Merchandise includes woolly Alpine hats with earflaps, baseball caps bearing the foundation date of 1879, Swiss watches, FCSG monopoly games, branded cigars, shot glasses, beer glasses and spirit flasks.

Kiosks dot the stadium on match days.

Bars Near Winkeln station on Herisauer Straße, typical Swiss bar/restaurant Landhaus Winkeln opens on match days, serving Bratwurst and chips, and FC St Gallen local St Galler Schützengarten beer. kybunapark The oldest football club still operating Further along on the other side, the on mainland Europe, St Gallen (www. standard bar/restaurant Brücken fcsg.ch) have had meagre reward for ones behind the west goal. Visiting minutes away. Winkeln is also served outlets such as the Post Office outside Waage at No.54 has tables outside in some 120 years of competitive play. supporters are allocated Gästesektor by the No.1 bus every 20min from the the train station and the Tourist Office warmer weather. Rarely out of the top flight since the 4 of the arbonia-Tribüne opposite. The main station, journey time 20min. on Bankgasse. early 1970s, St Gallen won a rare Swiss main stand, the former Piatti-Tribüne Of the outlets at the Shopping Arena title in 2000, moved into a new stadium now the RWD Schlatter, houses the VIP After arriving at Winkeln station, take Match-day Tageskassen also operate by the stadium, chain bar/restaurant in 2008 then made the group stage of and business seats. the underpass then the street ahead of but expect to pay SF5 extra. Prices Marktplatz offers several types of St the Europa League in 2013. you, Herisauer Straße. The stadium is start at SF20 to stand with the home Galler Schützengarten beer on draught, Transport about 7-8min ahead. fans, and for a seat in the corner of schnitzels, spare ribs and burgers. Opened as the AFG Arena, the Public transport is free for match- the opposite end. You’ll pay SF35 to sit currently named kybunpark holds ticket holders. Tickets either side of the standing fans in the All payments at the stadium are with nearly 20,000, average gates usually Unless Grasshoppers are in town, forster-Tribüne. Seats in the sideline a Stadionkarte from orange-dressed around 12,000. The quickest way to the stadium is to availability is rarely a problem. EgoKiefer Stand run from SF30-SF50, vendors. Match-Die Stadion Bar is the take the S1 (direction Wil) or S5 train from corner to halfway line, and in the main place for home fans, behind the St Gallen fans fill the home forster- (direction Weinfelden) from St Gallen The main distribution agents are main stand it’s SF55-SF80, apart from forster-Tribüne, decorated with framed Tribüne, sectors D2 and D3 standing main station to Winkeln, two stops/five Starticket, both online and at local the family area (A6). black-and-white shots of FCSG action.

liberoguide.com 16 SWITZERLAND 2017-18 Sion www.liberoguide.com/sion S ion

as local patriotism. The population of Sion Sion is only just twice that of the Stade de Tourbillon, just over a narrow stretch Capital of the canton of Valais, just down of the Rhône, so many head in from the A9 motorway from Sepp Blatter’s around the canton, taking advantage of home village of Visp, French-speaking the A9 motorway alongside. Sion is nestled halfway between the Matterhorn and Lake Geneva. Bearings The nearest airport to Sion is Geneva Here FC Sion (fcsion.ch/fr), in the 13 160km (100 miles) away. A train runs stars and red livery of their canton, from Genève-Aéroport to Sion (every have survived thanks to controversial 30min, 2hr journey time, SF26 single). Au Poker president and a Trains from Bern, Basel and Zürich, knack for winning the Swiss Cup – even including Zürich airport, require a when in the second division. change in Visp. from SF160. Also on rue du Scex, the Beer over the bar counter and tables outside Hôtel du Rhône Sion is quiet. The Hôtel- Surrounded by vineyards, Sion also in nice weather. Sacking coaches every other week, Sion’s adjacent bus and train stations Restaurant Elite at avenue du Midi 6 has drinks local Walliser/Valaisanne beer. stepping in to do the job himself, signing are a stroll from the town centre. offers in the run-up to Christmas. The main football spot in town, though, unsignable players and fielding the Bars surround place du Midi, including is Au Poker at avenue de la Gare 25. ineligible, Constantin has made many Public transport consists of buses, Also near the stadium but on the other Café de la Place, Le Brésilien, and, With a bar interior decked out in Sion enemies but Sion have been top flight singles SF2.70 from the driver. side of the A9 motorway, the ibis Sion also with football action, old-school Au line-ups over the seasons, some since 2006 and regular competitors in Est has 71 two-star rooms. Boulevard. In summer, their terraces autographed, Au Poker also provides a Europe. Bed merge in the Valais sunshine. large screen for match coverage. Sion Tourisme has an online booking An alternative, also close to the station, With no immediate rivals – although system. The centre has three three- is La Pension du Vieux-Canal (chemin Close by on rue de Scex, opened by Party-minded Saint James at rue de la it’s always good to beat Servette – cup star hotels. Old-school Castel, closest du Vieux-Canal, +41 27 322 7200, +41 79 sponsors of FC Sion, the Dugout is a Dents-Blanche 9 is more club than bar, specialists Sion attract regional as much to the stadium, has standard doubles 947 0398), with a dozen simple rooms. standard sports bar with TVs ranged with DJ nights and late-opening hours.

liberoguide.com 17 SWITZERLAND 2017-18 FC Sion www.liberoguide.com/fc-sion FC S ion

Transport For domestic fixtures, prices start at The stadium is a 20-min walk from SF25 in the standing home end, secteur Sion’s main train station – head straight B (Tribune Nord), rising to SF35 in out to avenue de Tourbillon opposite, secteurs D1-D3 for home seats behind bear right and keep following it until the the opposite goal, Sud. It’s SF55 for river. Cross it at the junction with rue du excellent seats in secteurs C3-C5 in Scex and the stadium is ahead of you Tribune Est. down rue du Stade.

Stade de Tourbillon Bars By bus, take No.BS2 (every 20min) from The nearest venue is the Café Le Parc the station stop by the Orient Express (route de Vissigen 72), a simple wooden Another feature of Constantin’s is barely noticeable as you approach bar. Alight at either Promenade Rhône bar with Feldschlössen beer, local Valais FC Sion ownership, along with attacking a from town. However, the 14,000-capacity nearest the Café Le Parc or the next wine and a small front terrace. TV reporter in 2017-18, has been the stadium is gradually losing its quaint one, Manège 1, near the equestrian Run by controversial Christian frequent sacking of managers. feel: the wooden benches that used to centre slightly closer to the stadium. It’s At the equestrian centre next to the Constantin, FC Sion (fc-sion-live.ch) line the East Stand were replaced by 10min by bus from the station, passing stadium, Le Paladin serves grilled had the envious record of winning all 13 Sion moved to the Stade de Tourbillon plastic seats in 2011. central place du Midi on the way. meats, pancakes and cheese fondue, as Swiss Cup finals they appeared in – until in 1968. Nestled between a winding well as beers – there’s a TV for football defeat to FC Basel in 2017. stretch of the Rhône and the Alps, the With home fans in the standing Tribune Tickets action too. Tourbillon was named after a medieval Nord, away ones occupy blocks D5 and Tickets are sold at branches of the Post For all the criticism, this architect from castle on the surrounding hilltops. D6 in the standing Tribune Sud. VIPs are Office, Manor stores and at train station Buvettes ranged around the ground nearby Martigny saved the club in 2003. housed in the Tribune Ouest, the best offices, as well as at the stadium from offer local Fendant white wine and Sion rebounded, and have been regulars Its chalet-like home North Stand adds seats in A2 and A8 facing the ones over 90min before kick-off by the Tribune Est. red Gamay, as well as beers in 25cl in the top flight since. to the charm – behind, the A9 motorway the halfway line in Tribune Est, C3-C5. Online sales are via ticketcorner.ch. measures.

liberoguide.com 18 SWITZERLAND 2017-18 Thun www.liberoguide.com/thun T

Thun hun

South of Berne, beneath the Bernese Alps, Thun has made its footballing presence felt over the last decade or so. Flagship club FC Thun have embarked upon four European campaigns since their surprise debut in the Champions League in 2005.

Back then, Arsenal, Ajax and Sparta Prague were hosted in Berne, Thun’s venerable but modest Stadion Lachen deemed unsuitable. The last major Thun, including the airport bus to Basel international team to play there was SBB train station, costs SF27.70. The West Germany, for training before half-hourly rail service to Thun takes winning the World Cup of 1954. 1hr 20min. Thun station and main bus concourse are alongside each other In 2011, the club opened the Arena on the west bank of the Aare river. The Thun, on the edge of town. It was later stadium on the outskirts of town is too named after cable-car firm Stockhorn. far to walk but the city centre is close. All local STI bus lines call at the station. With average gates for domestic fixtures A single ticket, from machines or the above 5,000, FC Thun are ticking over driver, is SF3. McArthurs without making any credible challenge for major silverware. The Alps and more Oesch Tagsi (+41 33 222 2222) is located prestigious Berne still provide ample halfway between the stadium and the nearby is the modern Holiday Thun. The Krone on focal Rathausplatz was table football. Bright El Camino offers a reason for the floating fan to spend his station. Behind it on the main road, the Gasthof a guildhouse, now a 29-room hotel fair range of beers on tap. Saturday afternoon elsewhere. Rössli Dürrenast is basically an old- renovated in 2014. Across the square, Bed school restaurant with six guest rooms the Hotel-Restaurant Rathaus dates For TV football, head to McArthurs, with The Stadion Lachen still stands, its bar The Thun Tourist Office www. with or without private facilities. These back even earlier, its comfortable rooms matches on a 55-inch HD screen, live displaying posters from that Champions thunersee.ch/en/stadt-thun.html has a three hotels are 15-20min walk to the also the result of stylish renovation. bands and good grub. On Rathausplatz, League campaign of 2005-06. hotel database and booking function. stadium. prominent Ratsstübli also shows sport Beer and hosts live music. Bearings Across from the club’s old ground, Of the options in the city centre, the You’ll find bars and restaurants on The nearest main airport to Thun is Stadion Lachen, the Alpha Thun Freienhof on Freienhofgasse enjoys either side of Obere Hauptgasse, Former football bar Schleusenbar at Basel 130km (81 miles) away. Online Hotel provides pleasant, mid-range waterside views but charges four-star around Mühleplatz near the river. These Bälliz 67 has changed its focus to food with Swiss Rail, a ticket all the way to accommodation, close to the lake. Also Swiss prices. include the Cadillac Café with pool and but cherishes its heritage as Tifo.

liberoguide.com 19 SWITZERLAND 2017-18 FC Thun www.liberoguide.com/fc-thun

FC Thun FC T

Since promotion to the top flight in 2002, hun FC Thun (www.fcthun.ch) have qualified for Europe four times, played Arsenal and Ajax in the Champions League and gained a new stadium.

Currently, though, this little club Stadion Lachen overshadowed by nearby Berne is treading water, surviving in the Swiss Super League but without the clout to challenge the big boys.

Home is the Arena Thun, aka . It bears all the hallmarks of a new-build: artificial turf, out-of-town location, retail park alongside, motorway nearby, little else in the vicinity. Opened in 2011, renamed in 2014, the stadium holds 10,000, of which 2,000 are standing places in the Heimsektor, the home Stockhorn Arena Under the main stand on match days, end of the Südtribüne. Away fans are the FanZelt is a beer-dispensing allocated sectors D9 and D10 in the marquee, with sausages at SF6.50. Nordtribüne. 62, by the junction with Weststraße. SF40/SF20. Kategorie 2, better seats The beautifully knitted winter scarves Depending on the opposition, the beer Branches of TicketCorner also distribute. around the corners, are SF44/SF22, also feature the yellow sunburst logo on might be alcohol-free Carlsberg. Transport SF52/SF26 for YB Berne and Basel. The red-and-white bars. Arena Thun has its own bus stop on the The club offers online booking through priciest seats are SF64/SF32, SF72/ The best FC Thun drinking spots are at No.3 line. Buses leave every 10-15min Eventim (eventimsports.de/ols/fct). SF36 for YB Berne and Basel. Visiting Bars the old Stadion Lachen on Gwattstraße. from Kante 2 outside Thun station, taking supporters pay SF25, SF20 reduced. The only bars near the stadium are The supporters’ bar is decorated with 7min to cover the six stops there. The Tageskassen kiosks outside the the two cafés at street level at the vintage pennants and autographed ground open on match days only. Shop Panorama Centre opposite: the posters from the 2005 Champions Tickets To stand with the home fans costs The FC Thun shop (Mon-Fri 8am-noon, Cappuccino Club, with its table football League campaign. It should be open Availability is rarely a problem. Advance SF26, SF13 for 6-15s. The cheapest 1.30pm-5pm, match days) is by Eingang table outside, and Migros, attached to and serving beer most evenings. Across sales in person are through Ochsner seats are Kategorie 3, in three corners A. Replica tops are either first-choice the supermarket of the same name. the street, the Restaurant Lachen Sport in the Panorama Center next to of the stadium and behind the goal in red-and-white or away lime green. A Both have terraces, the Cappuccino Club is another age-old Thun haunt with the stadium and Sport XX in the Zentrum the Nordtribüne, SF32/SF16 reduced. retro version has a string collar and a sells beer, Migros coffee, soft drinks and pennants to prove it. Beer and main Oberland retail centre at Talackerstraße For the visits of YB Berne and Basel, it’s bright yellow starburst badge. snacks. dishes, are served on the terrace.

liberoguide.com 20 SWITZERLAND 2017-18 Zürich www.liberoguide.com/zurich

Bed Z üri Zürich The Zürich Tourist Office (zuerich.com) has a free hotel-booking service online. Basel might be the hotbed of Swiss c football culture but the league title has Right by the Letzigrund, the H+ Hotel h gone to the financial capital of Zürich Zürich is the former Ramada, still more than twice as many times. business-friendly with a gym and sauna.

Switzerland’s largest city is the only Also on main Badenerstraße, one tram one to host a long-running cross-town stop nearer to town, three more hotels rivalry – between record champions are also within easy reach. First, the Grasshoppers and the more recent four-star Crowne Plaza Zurich offers winners, working-class FC Zürich, aka a heated indoor pool, high-spec fitness ‘FCZ’ or ‘Eff-Tsay-Tszett’. facilities and the LetziLou restaurant.

Both currently share the Letzigrund, Towards town, are standard four-star built by FCZ members in 1925. Shortly Mercure Stoller Zurich and old-school afterwards, Grasshoppers, GCZ, moved but comfortable Hotel Olympia. into the nearby – and FIFA moved to Zürich. By the station, the St Gotthard is a renovated four-star while the Before Euro 2008, the original first Schweizerhof combines the tradition of choice of finals venue was the proposed a railway hotel with modern features. Stadion Zürich (aka Zürich West), later rejected by locals in a referendum. Beer Zürich is where Hürlimann beer comes Bearings from. You’ll still see plenty of it around FIFA HQ Zürich Airport is 13km (eight miles) the bar hub of Niederdorfgasse, behind north of town, linked by Swiss Rail and the Limmat embankment. There, S-Bahn trains (SF6.60 one way with 1hr the Züri Bar (No.24) is a cult spot, Kennedy’s on Freischützgasse is the on Rolandstraße is an bohemian onward transport, SF13.20 24hr pass/ though it’s lost its FCZ iconography. It busiest pub, with a huge terrace and corner spot, named and themed after return, 12min journey time) to Zürich leads to a late-night bar, the Kontiki. plenty of TVs. Irish-owned Paddy Beckenbauer, where staff of cool Swiss station. A taxi should cost about SF70. Grasshopper fans convene at the Reilly’s on Talstraße has a large screen football magazine Zwölf meet. upscale Heugümper restaurant run by and ten plasma ones. The Lion at City transport consists of trams, buses the club. Oetenbachgasse 6 is more refined and The excellent Le Calvados on Idaplatz, and S-Bahn lines, tickets available at restaurant-like – but still has TV sports. a self-styled bar sportif, is tastefully machines by most stops. A single is On the same street towards done out with pictures of major Swiss

SF2.60, a day pass SF5.20/SF8.60. For a Bahnhofbrücke, Big Ben is more bar Elsewhere, Zürich is dotted with players when they were teenagers. Its Hotel St Gotthard city taxi 444, call +41 44 444 44 44. than pub and goes big on rarer ales. curiosities, bar-wise. Kaiser Franz terrace fills on summer evenings.

liberoguide.com 21 SWITZERLAND 2017-18 Letzigrund www.liberoguide.com/letzigrund

Transport L

The Letzigrund has its own stop on etzigrund tramline No.2 eight stops/14min from central Paradeplatz, direction Farbhof. Trams run every 8-10min.

From the Bahnhofplatz/HB stop at the train station, take Nos.3 or 14 to Stauffacher and change onto the No.2.

Tickets Home clubs FC Zürich and Grasshoppers occupy different areas of Letzigrund the stadium and have different ticketing systems. The Letzigrund (www.stadionletzigrund. ch), created by and for the members of For international matches, the Swiss FC Zürich, is now shared between FCZ FA use online agency Ticketcorner for and Grasshoppers. distribution – a seat in a corner of the main stand is just under SF50. Its long history can be divided between the original stadium opening on Bars November 22, 1925 – and the Euro 2008 Stadion Letzigrund On main Badenerstraße, Libero rebuild on the same site, unveiled on (No.451) is a classic Balkan grill serving August 30, 2007. Yugo meaty favourites such as ćevapčići Both grounds are set in north-west FCZ fans were invited to enter the old main new feature is the roof. Rust- and pljeskavica. At No.526, spacious Top-flight football and world-class Zürich. But when it came down to which Letzigrund and take home pieces of turf coloured and elliptical, it complements Italian Ristorante Da Cono takes its athletics have always featured. The first one to modernise for Euro 2008, on the for souvenirs. 30 toothbrush-shaped floodlights, set bowls seriously. There are big screens ratified ten-second 100-metre dash was table was also a proposal to build a new beside the solar panels that generate for TV sports, and a bocciodromo, Letzi. run here in 1960. arena in Zürich West. Exactly a year and SF125 million later, enough heat to grill 1,800 sausages the new Letzigrund opened its doors. during one match. For beers, the Schlachthof on Although ownership passed from In the end, though the public voted With a capacity of nearly 31,000 for Herdernstraße is a pre-match favourite FCZ to the City of Zürich in 1937, for a reconstruction of the Hardturm, Euro 2008, 26,000 for domestic league Traditionally, FCZ fans occupy the thanks to its draught Dunkle Perle improvements were slow and stopped residents objected and the rebuilding fixtures and 24,000 for internationals, it Südkurve, with standing places in Feldschlößchen. by war. The Letzigrund was overlooked of the Letzigrund was rushed through. is the fourth-largest football stadium in Sektor D on Badenerstraße. Away for Switzerland’s hosting of the 1954 In 2006-07, city’s two clubs shared Switzerland. fans are allocated Sektor B opposite. At the stadium, the Oval restaurant World Cup, five matches (and 28 goals) the Hardturm for one last season. It Grasshoppers supporters have the opens to all on non-match weekday hosted at the Hardturm, Grasshopper’s was later demolished – and the new Apart from the skyboxes, a media Baslerstraße end, Sektor B, and away lunchtimes – you’ll have to reserve a ground less than 1km away. stadium plans rejected. In August 2006, centre and the Oval restaurant, the fans are allocated in Sektor D. table for the game.

liberoguide.com 22 SWITZERLAND 2017-18 Grasshoppers www.liberoguide.com/grasshoppers G

Grasshoppers rasshoppers

Switzerland’s most successful club last won the league crown in 2003. For Grasshopper Club Zürich (www.gcz. ch) – known in the English-speaking world as Grasshoppers – this has been a decade to forget, alleviated only by a solitary Swiss Cup win on penalties in 2013. Shops The main outlet for merchandise Groundsharing the Letzigrund with in Zürich is at general football age-old city rivals FC Zürich since 2007, store Fussball-Corner Oechslin by Grasshoppers are little further with the Schaffhauserplatz tram stop, on the proposed Stadion Zürich than when same No.2 line as the Letzigrund. they vacated their former home of the On match days, a stand sets up Hardturm before Euro 2008. on the corner of Baslerstraße and Herderenstraße. In 2016-17, average gates dipped below 5,000 and Grasshoppers hovered over Bars the relegation zone. As well as the bars and restaurants

Heugümper near the ground – see Letzigrund – two For a club once perceived as venues in town are geared towards representing theelite, it feels a long Grasshoppers. time since the 1980s and 1990s, when Kürschner then brought tactical Türkyilmaz provided the goals to grant Sektor B at the Baslerstraße end of the Grasshoppers were winning titles and nous. Escaping the chaos of Budapest Grasshoppers a 25th title in 1998. ground. Away fans are allocated blocks Sächs Foif refers in local dialect both beating Real Madrid in Europe. after World War I, Kürschner led 27-31 in Sektor D on Badenerstraße.For its address – Heinrichstraße 65, near Grasshoppers to three titles and two Financial and boardroom upheavals Transport and Bars, see Letzigrund. Limmatplatz tram stop – and the Englishman Tom Griffith and pupils cups, the club moving to the Hardturm then saw a swift turnover of coaches as scoreline of the Swiss Cup semi-final from Manchester Grammar School stadium in 1929. FC Zürich and Basel monopolised the Tickets of 2004, city rivals FCZ on the receiving founded Grasshopper Club Zürich at Swiss championship. Tickets are sold online via Eventim end. Closed whenever Grasshoppers the start of the new term in 1886. Blue- Still in his thirties, (eventimsports.de/ols/gcz) and on the have an away game, it’s decorated with and-white shirts were obtained from arrived to win the double in 1990, then The demolition of the Hardturm, and day (SF5 levy) from the Tageskassen classic line-ups down the decades. Blackburn Rovers. the title again in 1991. Under Zürich- subsequent failure to set up a new- on Baslerstraße. born , Grasshoppers build with FC Zürich, have Business clients gather at the club’s In 1909, Grasshoppers moved to took back-to-back titles in 1995 and dictated economics ever since. Admission is SF25 for the home end, restaurant of the smart Heugümper on Hard, an industrial district by the 1996. Gross left for Tottenham, but his At the rebuilt Letzigrund, Grasshoppers SF50 in the sideline Gegentribüne and Waaggasse near Paradeplatz. It serves river Limmat. Hungarian Izidor ‘Dori’ signings and Kubilay supporters occupy the Fancurve GC in SF70 in the main Haupttribüne. the public on weekday lunchtimes.

liberoguide.com 23 SWITZERLAND 2017-18 FC Zürich www.liberoguide.com/fc-zurich FC FC Z üri c h

tunnel. Order was restored with a swift Sitting there costs SF25, also in the return to the top tier in 2017. away end (Sektor B). It’s SF40 to sit in Sektor C, and SF50 for a prime seat in At the Letzigrund, FCZ fans occupy Sektor A. the Südkurve, with standing places for domestic fixtures in Sektor D. Away Shop & museum fans are allocated Sektor B at the FCZ run their own Fanshop at Having built the multipurpose sparked back to life in 2006. Needing opposite end. Werdstraße 21. FC Zürich Letzigrund, stage internationals and a win in the last game at Basel’s St cup finals, the club was later forced to Jakob-Park, FCZ went into stoppage For details of transport and Merchandise includes branded Swiss Quickly promoted back to the Swiss sell it to the City of Zürich. time with the score pegged at 1-1. surrounding bars, see Letzigrund. Army knives, belts and beer glasses. Super League in 2017, FC Zürich Zürich’s struck with the In the same building, the free FCZ- (www.fcz.ch/en) are the populist team FCZ only picked up after legendary very last kick of the game, giving the Tickets Museum contains pennants, trophies in Switzerland’s most populous city. Edi Nägeli became president in 1957. visitors a shock title win and igniting Advance tickets are sold at the FCZ and historic club shirts. League champions a dozen times, With his trademark hat and cigar, this the worst riot in Swiss football history. Fanshop at Werdstraße 21, near the ‘FCZ’ share the Letzigrund with local owner of tobacco kiosks oversaw his Stauffacher tram stop on the same Bars rivals Grasshoppers. beloved Stadtclub during their glory Zürich won the league again in 2009, No.2 line as the Letzigrund, and from For details on bars at the stadium, years. Thanks to the toss of a coin, FCZ making the Champions League group Ticketcorner outlets in town. There are see Letzigrund. The one leaning Der Stadtclub (‘The City Club’) date reached the semi-final of the European stage for the first time, the prestigious also online sales via Eventim (www. towards FCZ is the Versus-Bar at back to 1896. Cup in 1964. An ageing Real Madrid visits of Real Madrid, Milan and eventimsports.de/ols/fcz-onlineshop). Badenerstraße 281. side duly tonked the Swiss 6-0 at the Marseille filling the rebuilt Letzigrund. On the day, stadium ticket windows The original FC Zürich wore red, Bernabéu. After Nägeli’s death in open 90min before kick-off. When the club had its offices on changing to their current blue and 1979 came stagnation and relegation. The Swiss Cup win of 2016 coincided Letzigraben, nearby Café Letzistübli at white in 1909, by which time they had Thanks to a goalscoring machine from with relegation from the Swiss Super The cheapest admission of SF20 is for Albisriederstraße 171 was patronised picked up a first Swiss title. Conakry, the Guinean Keita, Zürich League, and fans storming the players’ standing in the home end (Sektor D). by employees and officials.

liberoguide.com 24