Nuances of Traditional Knowledge in Utilization of Rice Landraces by a Farming Community in North-Eastern Thailand

Indian Journal of Traditional Knowledge Vol. 13 (3), July 2014, pp. 473-483

Nuances of traditional knowledge in utilization of rice landraces by a farming community in North-Eastern Thailand

Satian Chunta1*, Preecha Prathepha1, Thiha1 & Boonrat Jongdee2 1Walairukhavej Botanical Research Institute, Mahasarakham University, Thailand 44150 2Ubon Ratchathani Rice Research Center, Thailand 34000 * E-mails: [email protected]; [email protected]

Received 18.12.13, revised 05.05.14

Thailand has a large number of rice landrace varieties which are still grown by native tribes and small farmers in distant areas of the country. In these remote areas agricultural practices are primarily for food sufficiency and the farmer’s livelihood. Different native rice varieties are used for different purposes. Traditional utilization of rice landraces in Northeastern Thailand include: food, medicine, rituals, wine and native whisky; agriculture and animal feed; economic purposes and exchange. This paper presents the traditional knowledge of utilization of rice landraces of farmers in four selected locations of Northeastern Thailand (Sakon Nakhon, Roi Et, Ubon Ratchathani and Nakon Rachasima Provinces).

Keywords: Traditional knowledge, Utilization, Rice landraces, Farmers, Northeastern Thailand IPC Int. Cl.8: A01, A01G 9/00, A01G 16/00

Rice (Oryza sativa L.) is the principal staple food when hybrid seeds failed to give the desired results, for more than half of the world’s population. Rice is being attacked by different infectious pest, diseases especially important in Asia, where it is the most and other climate hazards. North eastern Thailand has significant food crop for more than 2 billion people1. various ethnic groups that cultivate and conserve The study shows that the preferences of consumers in native rice varieties. They use rice as the staple food several countries for good quality rice are similar, but in everyday life and to make various products. This preferences for shape and chemical attributes seem to study was carried out in the villages of four provinces vary2,3. Landraces of rice play a very important role in of North eastern Thailand to survey, explore, and local food security and sustainable development of document the existence of such indigenous rice agriculture in addition to their significance as a germplasms. resource for genetic improvement4.Landraces are cultivated under diverse environmental conditions in Methodology Thailand (total area 79% rainfed in the North and A survey was conducted from January 2008 to North east, 17% in irrigation and 4% in the South 5 March 2011 in 4 selected locations of Northeastern east) . Northeastern Thailand is a plateau in which Thailand (Sakon Nakhon, Roi Et, Ubon Ratchathani about 38.4% of the land is suitable for rice 6 and Nakon Rachasima Provinces) that were known or cultivation . The green revolution eradicated most reported to have rice landrace cultivation (Fig. 1). traditional landraces in almost all of the rice growing Data was collected from farmers that cultivated and countries of the world, but Thailand is among one of conserved rice landraces in the community via the few countries that retained their wealth of 7 indepth-interviews of willing farmers (N=40) and traditional rice varieties . Some of the native rice focus group discussions (N=120). The field study cultivars became extinct, save for a few in some included collection of rice variety samples (Table 1) interior places and tribal pockets of the country. and farmers demonstrating traditional knowledge Those local landraces, however, regained their utilization of rice landraces, including specialty and importance in the last decade of the 20th century, organoleptic traits as well as application for food or —————— ingredients as indicated in Table 2. All the recorded *Corresponding author characters are based on the long time experience of 474 INDIAN J TRADITIONAL KNOWLEDGE, VOL, 13, NO. 3, JULY 2014

farmers and community members. Information analysis was conducted using content analysis and were cross checked and reported descriptively.

Results and discussion Traditional knowledge utilization (Table 3) by farmers of rice landraces in Northeastern Thailand differ by location. Most of the farmers have a culture of eating glutinous rice (most rice varieties are glutinous rice excep/8t for Mali Daeng, Set Thee,

Khao Noi, Mali Dam, So Ma Lee, Sang Yod, Jow Daeng and Pin Keaw), but the farmers in Nakhon Fig. 1—Map of Northeastern Thailand marked with selected sites Rachasima eat non-glutinous rice (Fig. 2). Utilization of study of native rice varieties were classified into 6 Ou: Ou is made with rare meat. A soup is prepared categories namely, food, wine and native whisky, by pouring a little water over the rice (Khao Koaw) medicine, ritual, agriculture and animal feed; and and stirring until sticky. Ou is commonly eaten with economic purposes and exchange (Fig. 3). These uses various vegetables. are discussed in detail below. Oua: Oua is prepared with small fish or small 1. Food: Rice is the staple food in everyday life, animals such as frogs, baby frogs or tadpoles, and farmers cook it as food for sustenance. The bullfrogs, shrimp, etc. Preparation is the same as Ou: culture of eating is linked to the food that is available mixing in Khao Kaow until its sticky, but to eat. Sticky rice or glutinous rice with curries such remembering to use less water than than curry. as Keang, Oum, Lab, Sa, Koy, and Tam (names of Oum: Oum is made from fish, shellfish, frogs or local food types) are typical examples. Also, rice is mice. It is made in the same way as Ou and Oum, but crucial to the way of life of farmers; they use it to with not as much water as curry. Oum is cooked by make food as follows: adding Khoa Bue and Khao Koaw warmed up, and 1.1 Rice as a condiment: The eating, or food stirred until sticky. Oum is popularly eaten with culture, of farmers are different. Some use processed various vegetables. rice as ingredients in food such as Khao Koaw and Keang: Keang is a curry cooked with vegetables Khao Bue. Khao Koaw is made by roasting the sticky and meat. The commonly used ingredients include rice until it smells good. It is then ground into powder Khao Bue, Keang Nuo Mai (young bamboo curry), and put into jars or plastic bags to keep for cooking. Keang Pak (vegetable curry), etc. Keang is commonly Khao Bue is made by soaking the sticky rice in water cooked and linked with eating culture and traditional overnight, then taking it out and draining the water consumption by farmers in Northeastern Thailand. away. After that, it is pounded and mixed with Hom 1.2 Rice as food preservatives: Rice is used to Bo fresh leaves and Ya Nang fresh leaves thoroughly preserve various foods. Here are some examples: and made into flat bales to dry and put in plastic bags Talo: Talo is made with preserved pork, or it can to keep for curry. Rice as a condiment has a be made from other meats such as beef. It is made by relationship with food culture as follows: cutting meat or pork into thin strips and mixed with Koy: Koy is a dish made with beef, buffalo, garlic, salt, steamed sticky rice, and a little water. It wildlife, shrimp, fish or shellfish with some plants can be stored in a jar for up to one month. The and mushrooms. Khao Koaw (about 15-30 gm or 1-2 addition of steamed sticky rice helps the fermentation tablespoons) is used to cook with Koy to give it good and adds pleasantly to the taste and smell.Talo is aroma and delicious taste. popular for making curry. Sa and Lab: Sa and Lab are made with beef and Mum: Mum is made with pork, beef or dog meat buffalo.Sa is sliced meat and Lab is minced. Khao with liver. There are two types of Mum. The first is Koaw (about 15 gm or 1 tablespoon) is put into Sa, made by mixing the meat with steamed glutinous rice, and about 15-20 gm is put into Lab for good aroma garlic, and salt. Then, it is cooked to taste and put in a and delicious taste. Sa and Lab are popular at fermentation jar or covered with bamboo for 3-5 traditional ceremonies and receptions for visitors. nights. It is then taken out to cook by boiling with CHUNTA et al.: UTILIZATION OF RICE LANDRACES OF FARMERS IN THAILAND 475

Table 1—Rice landrace varieties and locations studied that farmers used in daily life Locations Sakon Nakhon Roi Et Ubon Ratchathani Nakhon Rachasima Number of varieties 6 20 20 2 Local name of native rice Glutinous rice Non-glutinous rice Non-glutinous rice Non-glutinous rice varieties 1. Hom Phu Phan 1. Mali Daeng 1. Jow Daeng (Red rice) 1. Set Thee (White rice) (Red rice) (White rice) 2. Pla Keng (White rice) 2. Mali Dam 2. Pin Keaw (White rice) 2. Khao Noi (Black rice) Glutinous rice (White rice) 3. Hnon Na (White rice) 3. So Ma Lee 1. Hom Nang Noul (White rice) (White rice) 4. Hang Hee (White rice) 4. Sang Yod 2. Hom Sa Ngiem (Red rice) Glutinous rice (White rice) 5. Pla Sil (White rice) 1. Nuew Daeng 3. Hom Hai (Red rice) (White rice) 6. Kum (Black rice) 2. Lao Taeng 4. Hom Tung (White rice) (White rice) 3. Hom Pha Ma 5. Hom Sam Ko (White rice) (White rice) 4. Kum I 6. Khao Dow (Black rice) (White rice) 5. Kum II 7. Haw Daeng (Black rice) (White rice) 6. Kum Kok Kaow 8. Nang Bhun Ma (Black rice) (White rice) 7. Kum Loy 9. Ei Tea (Black rice) (White rice) 8. Kum Do 10. Do Ma Kham (White rice) (White rice) 9. Roung Chang 11. Pha Ya Khao (White rice) (White rice) 10. Mae Hang 12. Khao Su Rat (White rice) (White rice) 11. Luk Chue 13. Pho Daeng (White rice) (White rice) 12. Nuew Mali 14. San Pa Tong (White rice) (White rice) 13. Nuew Ko Duew 15. Ei Loom (White rice) (White rice) 14. Ei Hlong 16. Kum (Black rice) (White rice) 15. Kum Dow 17. Pong Aew (White rice) (Black rice) 16. Hom Nang Nual 18. Man Pet (White rice) (White rice) lemongrass and sliced eggplant. The second type of in a jar with a lid. Then, it is covered by ashes mixed Mum is a sausage made with minced meat. It is mixed with water. It is fermented for two months. When it is with different ingredients and streamed rice, and then ready for consumption, it is taken out and mixed with stuffed into animal intestines. roasted rice and Kra Thin young leaves [Leucaena Mak Pla Deak: Mak Pla Deak is a fermented leucocephala (Lam.) de Wit.], and then the boiled condiment made with fish, shrimp or bullfrog with water is put into the tightly sealed jar and kept for gizzards smeared and mixed with salt and lots of seven days before being taken out for cooking. compost in a jar for one up to three years, depending Som Pla Yai: Som Pla Yai is a big fish with scales on when you want to eat it. Marinated fish is pounded and gizzards removed and softened, washed with rice with Khao Koaw and roasted rice bran chaff and put water (water from washing rice) to eliminate the 476 INDIAN J TRADITIONAL KNOWLEDGE, VOL, 13, NO. 3, JULY 2014

Table 2—Rice landraces and Phenotypic, Speciality and Organoleptic traits (contd.) Rice Type Locations Phenotypic characters Speciality and Applications for Foods/Ingredients landraces Organoleptic varieties Husk color Dehusked grain color 1. Hom Glutinous rice Sakon Straw-colored White Sticky & Khao Koaw and Khao Bue, rice as a preserve Phu Phan Nakhon soft/Aromatic food such as Talo, Mak Pla Deak, Som pla Noi 2. Pla Glutinous rice Sakon Straw switch White Hard/ sticky Khao Koaw and Khao Bue is a condiment Keng Nakhon brownish black lessness 3. Hnon Glutinous rice Sakon Straw-colored White Sticky/ Soft/ Khao Koaw and Khao Bue is a condiment, Khao Na Nakhon Slightly aromatic Tom Pon, Khao Ton Mat, Khao Daek Hga 4. Hang Glutinous rice Sakon Straw switch White Hard/ Sticky Khao Koaw and Khao Bue is a condiment Hee Nakhon red lessness 5. Pla Sil Glutinous rice Sakon Straw-colored White Sticky/ Soft/ Khao Kaow and Khao Bue, Khao Moa Nakhon Aromatic 6. Kum Glutinous rice Sakon Purple black Purple Hard/ Aromatic Khao Kieb, Khao Kob, Khao Pong, Khao Bhad, Nakhon Kha Nom Lod Chong 7. Mali Non-glutinous Roi Et Straw-colored Red Soft/ Aromatic Staple food Daeng rice 8. Mali Non-glutinous Roi Et Straw switch Purple Soft/ Aromatic Staple food Dam rice purple black 9. So Ma Non-glutinous Roi Et Straw-colored White Soft/ Slightly Staple food Lee rice aromatic 10. Sang Non-glutinous Roi Et Straw switch Red Soft/ Aromatic Staple food Yod rice red 11. Nuew Glutinous rice Roi Et Brownish red Red Sticky & Soft/ Khao Nuew Daeng Daeng Aromatic 12. Lao Glutinous rice Roi Et Straw switch White Sticky & Soft Khao Koaw and Khao Bue is a condiment, Khao Taeng brown, Phong, Kha Nom Dok Bou 13. Hom Glutinous rice Roi Et Straw brown White Sticky & Soft/ Khao Koaw and Khao Bue is a condiment, Khao Pha Ma frekles Aromatic Tom Pon, Khao Ton Mat Kha Nom Lod Chong, Preserv food such as Nham, Mak Pla Dek, Mum 14. Kum I Glutinous rice Roi Et Purple black Purple Hard/ Aromatic Khao Kieb, Khao Kob, Khao Pong, Khao Bhad, Kha Nom Lod Chong, Ka Ya Sath 15. Kum Glutinous rice Roi Et Purple black Purple Hard/ Aromatic Khao Kieb, Khao Kob, Khao Pong, Khao Bhad, II Kha Nom Lod Chong, Ka Ya Sath 16. Kum Glutinous rice Roi Et Sstraw switch Purple Hard/ Aromatic Khao Kieb, Khao Kob, Khao Pong, Khao Bhad, Kok Kaow purple black Kha Nom Lod Chong, Ka Ya Sath 17. Kum Glutinous rice Roi Et Purple black Purple Hard/ Aromatic Khao Kieb, Khao Kob, Khao Pong, Khao Bhad, Loy Kha Nom Lod Chong, Ka Ya Sath 18. Kum Glutinous rice Roi Et Sstraw switch White Sticky & hard Khao Koaw and Khao Bue, Preserve food such Dong brownish black as Mak Pla Daek 19. Roung Glutinous rice Roi Et Straw switch White Sticky & Soft Khao Koaw and Khao Bue, Preserve food such Chang brown as Mum 20. Luk Glutinous rice Roi Et Straw-colored White Sticky & Soft Khao Koaw and Khao Bue, Preserve food such Chue as Mak Pla Daek 21. Nuew Glutinous rice Roi Et Straw with White Sticky & Soft Khao Kieb, Khao Kob, Khao Pong, Khao Bhad, Mali red Kha Nom Lod Chong, Ka Ya Sath 22. Nuew Glutinous rice Roi Et Straw with White Sticky & Soft Khao Kieb, Khao Kob, Khao Pong, Khao Bhad, Ko Duew red Kha Nom Lod Chong 23. Ei Glutinous rice Roi Et Straw-colored White Sticky & Soft/ Khao Koaw and Khao Bue is a condiment Hlong Aromatic 24. Kum Glutinous rice Roi Et Purple black White Sticky & Soft Khao Kieb, Khao Kob, Khao Pong, Khao Bhad, Dow Kha Nom Lod Chong, Ka Ya Sath (contd.)

CHUNTA et al.: UTILIZATION OF RICE LANDRACES OF FARMERS IN THAILAND 477

Table 2—Rice landraces and Phenotypic, Speciality and Organoleptic traits Rice Type Locations Phenotypic characters Speciality and Applications for Foods/Ingredients landraces Organoleptic varieties Husk color Dehusked grain color 25. Hom Non- Roi Et Straw switch White Hard/ Aromatic Khao Koaw and Khao Bue is a condiment, Nang Nualglutinous rice brown Khao Tom Pon, Khao Ton Mat, Preserv food such as Nham, Mum 26. Jow Non- Ubon Brownish red Red Hard/ Aromatic Khao Poon, Kha Nom Lod Chong Daeng glutinous rice Ratchathani 27. Pin Glutinous Ubon Straw switch White Soft/High Staple food Keaw rice Ratchathani brown elongation 28. Hom Glutinous Ubon Straw switch White Sticky & Soft/ Khao Koaw and Khao Bue is a condiment, Nang rice Ratchathani brown Aromatic Khao Tom Pon, Khao Ton Mat, Preserv food Noul such as Nham, Mum 29. Hom Glutinous Ubon Straw-colored White Sticky & Soft/ Khao Kieb, Khao Kob, Khao Pong, Khao Sa Ngiem rice Ratchathani Aromatic Bhad, Kha Nom Lod Chong 30. Hom Glutinous Ubon Straw switch White Sticky & Soft/ Khao Koaw and Khao Bue is a condiment, Hai rice Ratchathani brown Aromatic Preserv food such as Mak Pla Daek, Mum 31. Hom Glutinous Ubon Straw switch White Sticky & Khao Koaw and Khao Bue is a condiment, Tung rice Ratchathani brown Aromatic Khao Tom Pon, Khao Ton Mat, Preserv food such as Nham, Mum 32. Hom Glutinous Ubon Straw-colored White Sticky & Soft/ Khao Koaw and Khao Bue is a condiment, Sam Ko rice Ratchathani Aromatic Khao Tom Pon, Khao Ton Mat, Preserv food such as Nham, Mum 33. Khao Glutinous Ubon Straw switch White Sticky & Soft Khao Kieb, Khao Kob, Khao Pong, Khao Dow rice Ratchathani brown Bhad, Kha Nom Lod Chong, 34. Haw Glutinous Ubon Straw switch White Sticky & Soft Khao Koaw and Khao Bue is a condiment, Daeng rice Ratchathani brown Khao Tom Pon, Khao Ton Mat, Preserv food such as Som Pla Noi, Mak Pla Daek 35. Nang Glutinous Ubon Straw switch White Sticky & Soft/ Khao Koaw and Khao Bue is a condiment, Bhun Ma rice Ratchathani brown Slightly aromatic Bhad, Kha Nom Lod Chong, Ka Ya Sath 36. Ei Glutinous Ubon Straw-colored White Sticky & Soft Khao Koaw and Khao Bue is a condiment, Tea rice Ratchathani Khao Bhad, Kha Nom Lod Chong, Ka Ya Sath 37. Do Glutinous Ubon Straw switch White Sticky & Soft Khao Poon, Kha Nom Nang Let, Khao Ma Kham rice Ratchathani brown /Short grain Koaw and Khao Bue, Preserve food 38. Pha Glutinous Ubon Straw-colored White Sticky & Soft Khao Kieb, Khao Kob, Khao Pong, Khao Ya Khao rice Ratchathani Bhad 39. Khao Glutinous Ubon Straw-colored White Sticky & Soft Khao Tom Pon, Khao Ton Mat Su Rat rice Ratchathani 40. Pho Glutinous Ubon Brownish red White Sticky & Soft Khao Poon, Kha Nom Nang Let, Khao Daeng rice Ratchathani Koaw 41. San Pa Glutinous Ubon Straw switch White Sticky & Soft Khao Kieb, Khao Kob, Bhad, Kha Nom Lod Tong rice Ratchathani red Chong, Ka Ya Sath 42. Ei Glutinous Ubon Brownish red White Sticky & Soft Khao Koaw and Khao Bue is a condiment, Loom rice Ratchathani Preserv food such as Som Pla Noi, Mak Pla Daek 43. Kum Glutinous Ubon Purple black Purple Hard & Khao Kieb, Khao Kob, Khao Pong, Khao rice Ratchathani Aromatic Bhad, Kha Nom Lod Chong, Ka Ya Sath 44. Pong Glutinous Ubon Staw switch White Sticky Khao Koaw and Khao Bue is a condiment, Aew rice Ratchathani brown Preserv food such as Som Pla Noi, Mak Pla Daek 45. Man Glutinous Ubon Straw switch White Sticky Khao Koaw and Khao Bue is a condiment, Pet rice Ratchathani brown Preserv food such as Mum, Mak Pla Daek 46. Set Non- Nakhon Straw switch White Soft Staple food Thee glutinous rice Rachasima brown 47. Khao Non- Nakhon Straw switch White Soft Staple food Noi glutinous rice Rachasima brown 48.Mae Glutious rice Roi Et Straw-colored White Sticky & Soft Khao Koaw and Khao Bue is a condiment, Hang Preserv food such as Som Pla Noi, Khao Kieb, Khao Kob, Bhad 478 INDIAN J TRADITIONAL KNOWLEDGE, VOL, 13, NO. 3, JULY 2014

Table 3—Rice landraces varieties and utilization (contd.) smell, and then another round of washing with water. Then the fish is removed and mixed in a container Group Rice landraces varieties Utilization with steamed glutinous rice, salt, and pounded garlic. Mostly 1. Hom Phu Phan Staple rice, rice as a The bag or jar will keep the fish for 4-5 days and up used (White rice) condiment and dessert to 7 days before spoiliing 2.Hnon Na (White Som Pla Noi: Som Pla Noi is made with smaller rice) fish with scales and gizzards removed, then mixed 3. Pla Sil (White rice) with salt, garlic and steamed rice. After mixing, it is 4. Lao Taeng fermented for about three days. Som Pla Noi can be (White rice) used for cooking various menus of local foods. 5. Hom Pha Ma Hnam: Hnam (or Mu Som) is made from pork with (White rice) pounded garlic and salt. Then, the pounded pork is 6. Roung Chang (White rice) mixed with steamed rice until sticky. It tastes 7. Luk Chue delicious mixed into the sliced fresh chilli seed and (White rice) kept tightly wrapped in 2-3 banana leaves, and tied. 8. Nuew Ko Duew Fermentation takes 3-4 days before it can be (White rice) consumed. 9. Hom Nang Nual 1.3 Rice for desserts or sweets: Desserts made (White rice) from rice landraces are popular during the festival 10. Hom Nang Noul seasons of the year, and they are used in traditional (White rice) ceremonies of farmers in Northeastern Thailand. 11. Hom Sa Ngiem There are a variety of types as follows: (White rice) Khao Tom Daek: Khao Tom Daek is made by 12. Hom Hai putting glutinous rice in water over night. The next (White rice) daythe water is drained. Afterwards, it is pounded 13. Hom Tung thoroughly, and the sifted flour is mixed with water (White rice) prepared from pounded Yha Tod Mha or Skunk-vine 14. Hom Sam Ko (White rice) (Paederia foetida L.). It is taken out for only 15. Khao Dow 10 minutes and soaked thoroughly, then the water is (White rice) squeezed out. The water is mixed with flour and 16. Haw Daeng kneaded dough, and sesame roasted, sugarcane juice, (White rice) and coconut are added. Next, it is wrapped in banana 17. Nang Bhun Ma leaves and steamed until done. It is popular at (White rice) festivals and various fairs. 18. Ei Tea Khao Tom Pon: Khao Tom Pon is made by soaking (White rice) glutinous rice in water until the rice is saturated and the 19. Do Ma Kham water is drained out. Itis mixed with roasted coconut, (White rice) sugar and roasted peanuts. Next, it is wrapped in 20. Pha Ya Khao banana leaves and steamed until done. Steaming is (White rice) capable of cooking almost all kinds of food. 21. Khao Su Rat Khao Tom Mat: Khao Tom Mat is another kind of (White rice) rice dessert made popular in the peasant community 22. Pho Daeng (White rice) today. It is made by soaking glutinous rice and black 23. San Pa Tong beans (Phaseolus mungo) for softness. A small (White rice) portion of the soaked rice and black beans is wrapped 24.Nuew Mali with banana leaves, and ripe sliced bananas in the (White rice) middle. Then, it is boiled until done. Sometimes 25.Mae Hang grated coconut and sugar are added for flavor. (White rice) Khao Hang: Khao Hang is made with nearly ripe (contd.) paddy grains steamed and removed to dry and be CHUNTA et al.: UTILIZATION OF RICE LANDRACES OF FARMERS IN THAILAND 479

Table 3—Rice landraces varieties and utilization are well pounded until homogenous and sticky. It is Group Rice landraces varieties Utilization commonly consumed in winter. In Northeastern Moderately 1. Pla Keng Staple rice and rice as Thailand, people believe that it helps to relieve bone used (White rice) a condiment pain in adults and also to keep our body warm in 2. Hang Hee Staple (specific winter. Khao Daek Nga is a popular dessert for (White rice) region) and dessert children. 3. Kum Dong Khao Moa: Khao Moa is made near harvest time. (White rice) Young rice is roasted until done. When done, it is 4. Roung Chang (White rice) pounded, then the rice is mixed with coconut and 5. Ei Hlong molasses (sugarcane juice) until sticky. It is popular in (White rice) fairs and traditional ceremony festivals such as 6. Ei Loom Kgawpradabdin Festival. (White rice) Khao Nuew Daeng: Khao Nuew Daeng is a dessert 7. Pong Aew (White rice) prepared from steamed glutinous red rice mixed with 8. Man Pet coconut milk and sugar. Coconut milk is prepared and (White rice) put in a pot and boiled while stirring until warm. 1. Kum Sugar is added until boiling becomes rapid, and then (Black rice) they are combined. The finished product is cut into 2. Kum I pieces and ready to be served. (Black rice) 3. Kum II Khao Kieb: Khao Kieb is sticky rice steamed (Black rice) thoroughly. It is then pounded and kneaded until 4. Kum Kok Kaow (Black sticky and rolled into balls and squeezed flat like a rice) thin sheet. Then, it is put on banana leaves and left to 5. Kum Loy (Black rice) dry. Khao Kieb can be either roasted or grilled prior to 6. Nuew Mali consumption. It is popular at the Bhun Pra Vet (White rice) Festival. 7. Kum Dow Khao Kob: Khao Kob is made with sundried rice, (Black rice) which is pounded to break the tablet apart and then 8. Kum (Black rice) [Ubon Ratchathani] roasted in sand to heat up the rice. Then, it is put into a threshing basket and winnowed to remove the sand. Specific used 1. Nuew Daeng Dessert (Red rice) Molasses (sugarcane juice) is boiled until thick, and 2. Jow Daeng then the rice is roasted and simmered until mixed and (Red rice) put into a mold to dry. Afterwards, it is put out and 1.Mali Daeng Cooked rice food sugar juice dropped down on it. (Red rice) Khao Pong: Khao Pong uses steamed sticky rice Rarely used 2.Mali Dam (Black rice) cooked thoroughly, mixed with water and pounded 3. So Ma Lee grassroots called Yha Tod Mha (prepared by mixing (White rice) profile of pounded grassroots and water from washing 4. Sang Yod rice). Yha Tod Mha water helps the mixture not stick (Red rice) to the hard dish when put into a mold. When 5. Pin Keaw completed, the sculptured pellets are rolled into thin (White rice) plates, and stored in a plastic bag until dry. pounded. This is then used to make Kha Num Khao Consumers grill them over low heat. Tom by soaking in water for about 10 minutes until Khao Poang: Khao Poang is made by soaking the rice is saturated with a good scent. After that, it is sticky rice in water for at least 3-6 days depending on steamed until done. the rice type. When dry, the rice is roasted and Khao Daek Nga: Khao Daek Nga is a dessert removed from the shell, and then mixed with prepared from steamed rice mixed with roasted vegetable oil or animal oil (pig oil) and fermented for sesame and molasses (sugarcane juice).All ingredients about 5-6 hrs. After that, the rice is mixed with oil 480 INDIAN J TRADITIONAL KNOWLEDGE, VOL, 13, NO. 3, JULY 2014

Fig. 2—Some rice landraces varieties in selected sites of study a. Some non-glutinous rice landraces varieties b. Some glutinous rice landraces varieties again. To make it swell, cleaned roughage is put in a When cooked, they are soaked in a bucket of cold pan and heated, and then the fermented rice is added water and, then it is ready to be consumed or sold. into the pan and stirred using wood paddles until the Khao Bhad: Khao Bhad is made with non-glutinous rice is puffed, rice flour mixed with limewater, pandan juice Khao Poon: Khao Poon or Kha Nom Jien is made (prepared by crushed pandan fresh leaves with some by soaking non-glutinous rice in water for 4-5 hrs and water), pounded thoroughly, with water and squeezed drained, then pounded by a milling machine. The until liquid), sugar and coconut scrape. After mixed water is then filtered out with a wet cloth bag. It is completely, it is put into a pie pan, heated and stirred then kneaded with a hit machine. Then it is dropped in constantly until the flour is cooked, and then sugar is a pot of boiling water until partially cooked. Then, it added. When the pastry is cooked, the pan is cooled. It is kneaded by machine to make it soft.The rice is cut into small pieces and garnished with grated noodles are squeezed into the pot of boiling water. coconut for consumption or sale. CHUNTA et al.: UTILIZATION OF RICE LANDRACES OF FARMERS IN THAILAND 481

Fig. 3—Some products of traditional knowledge utilization of farmers from glutinous rice landraces Kha Nom Dok Bou: Kha Nom Dok Bou is prepared mold and dried on a sunny day. Afterwards, it is fried by mixing sticky rice flour with sugar and pandan in vegetable oil and taken out to aerate. Then, sugar or juice and then pressing down the mixed flour on a molasses is steamed and poured in a line for topping. mold. Afterwards, it is deep-fried in vegetable oil. It It is kept in a plastic bag or package. is normally served on banana leaves. Ka Ya Sath: Ka Sa Sath (or Khao Thip) means Kha Nom Lod Chong: Kha Nom Lod Chong is a supernatural rice. It is popular during the full moon in dessert made from white glutinous rice flour. Rice is September (10th month). The farmers believe soaked in water for about 3-4 hrs and pounded into Buddhist history about a Suchada women who took flour. It is then mixed with limewater and pandan water. Next, it is boiled in water, stirred and st uck the Ka Ya Sath to the Buddha while he became until cooked to medium. It is then dripped through enlightened. Khao Moa is mixed with black beans, filters of cool water and poured into baskets for rice green beans, soybeans, peanuts, sesame seeds, honey, noodles. Syrup is prepared from sugar and water sugar, coconut milk, butter, roasted rice, lotus seeds boiled together, then coconut milk and a little salt are and grated coconut. Then, it is stirred in a large pan stirred until done. The rice noodles are put into the and boiled until it becomes a sticky mass. Afterwards, syrup with coconut milk and ice when eaten. it is cut into small pieces and kept in a plastic bag for Kha Nom Nang Let: Kha Nom Nang Let is a consumption or sale. The product can be stored up to dessert made using glutinous rice soaked in water for three months. Examples of food products produced 4-5 hrs, then steamed. When cooked it is put in a pan from traditional knowledge utilization of farmers and poured in to a round or polygon shaped bamboo from rice landraces are shown in Figure 3. 482 INDIAN J TRADITIONAL KNOWLEDGE, VOL, 13, NO. 3, JULY 2014

2. Wine and native whisky: Native rice whisky and by eating sticky rice roasted with salt, ginger, rice wine are important in the rituals of traditional galingal, toasted fish and toasted chicken because it ceremonies of farmers in the community. They use helps repair the uterus. When postpartum women native rice as the raw material (substrate) in the farmers have problems, called Phid Phuaw, they production of both starter (yeast) and alcohol. The starter toasted sticky rice called Kgaw Gi with salt due to the is called Paeng Lhoa. To make Paeng Lhoa, sticky rice belief that it reduces sexual desire and prevents sexual is pounded into flour with two parts and then mixed with prematurity. Additionally, Khao Deak Nga is popular seven kinds of herbal plants (root and leaves of Song Fa, for children to eat during the winter to help keep the root of Mhak, root of Lein Fa, root of Kuea Pra Song, body warm, and it helps to relieve bone pain in adults. root of Ya Nang, and root of Huad Kha). Each type is In India, farmers use different indigenous rice minced and mixed with glutinous flour and rolled into varieties for their nutritional and medicinal values. ball and sundried for seven days. The Paeng Lhoa is For instance, cooked grains are useful for dysenteric used as a starter to ferment rice wine and rice whisky of patients, chronic gastric patients, breathing problems, which there are three types as follows: epilepsy, etc.8,9. Chinese people also have knowledge Lhoa Tho: Lhoa Tho is a rice wine made from about medicinally important rice varieties and use glutinous rice pounded into two parts (rice one part them both as food and medicinal substance to and another rice with chaff) and soaked in water promote blood circulation, soothe upset stomach, overnight. Then it is steamed to aerate and cool. invigorate the function of the spleen, bruised muscles, 10 The proportion is one part rice (5 kg) to three yeast hangovers, and indigestion and colic infants . balls (Paeng Lhoa) and put into jars and fermented 4. Ritual: Farmers use rice symbolically in for 5 - 15 days. Before drinking water is boiled, everyday life, especially in production and traditional cooled down, put into jars and fermented for about ceremonial festivals of religious days year round. 2 to 3 days. Most rituals are associated with rice into elements of Lhoa Thom: Lhoa Thom is a native whisky made farmer ceremony. Kooa Tok is made by roasting rice from Lhoa Tho. If Lhoa Tho has an undesirable taste until popped and is used in funeral ceremonies. Khao after fermenting longer than 15 days people will use it Suk is steamed sticky rice mixed with colour (yellow to make Lhoa Thom. Lhoa Tho is diluted with water from curcuma, black from soot, red from red lime) and brought to boil to make alcohol. It is kept in and molded into small pieces that can be used in ritual containers or bottles for use at drinking rituals and offerings to bargain about a child whose soul or spirit festivals in various fairs. comes down to the human world. Khao San (white Lhoa Hai Chang: Lhoa Hai Chang is rice wine. It rice) is used in some areas for ritual health in is made from sticky rice (equal unhusked rice grains postpartum women. It is a symbol of the farmer’s and rice paddy) pounded and soaked in water relationship between humans, nature and supernatural overnight. Then it is steamed and aerted to dry, mixed power in everyday life. with yeast (Paeng Lhoa), and put in a jar covered with 5. Agriculture and animal feeding: In agriculture, clay for 7 - 14 days. Afterwards, it is taken out of the the farmers use rice from the stems (Fang), seeds, clay of the jar and diluted with water. Bamboo tubes bran and chaff to feed animals. The stems are feed for are used to draw the wine for drinking. cattle, such as cows and buffalos; rice seeds and bran 3. Medicine: Farmers use rice for healthcare; for are for feeding chickens, ducks and pigs. Therefore, in example, the Ka Loeng ethnic group in Kud Bak dry season, rice is food for livestock. In addition, district, Sakon Nakhon Province believe that black farmers use rice stems for cultivation. They use rice rice is better than other rice because black rice has a stems cover soil to maintain the moisture for plant spirit called Kwany Khao, that is not found in ill growth, and reduce weeds. people. In another area, farmers have used rice for 6. Economic purposes and exchange: In Thailand healthcare, such as using rice (boiled rice or Khao sales of organic and natural health products are Tom, and rice water, or Nam Khao) for rehabilitation booming. Organic brown rice products are main of the sick. Postpartum female farmers losing blood commodities for export (96% and 4% to local markets and vaginal fluid from the body are considered to be in 2009)11. Furthermore, the native rice seeds demand in a state of weakness, and the elements in the body has increased in the market, providing farmers with are not balanced. They need powerful rehabilitation additional income from the sale of the native rice. The CHUNTA et al.: UTILIZATION OF RICE LANDRACES OF FARMERS IN THAILAND 483

farmers use rice landraces in terms of responding to English proof we thank you very much Mr.Paul the social interaction in a community in three ways. Dulfer, he is a senior technical editor at Support and First, it was found that if a farmer planted rice with an Development Research Division, Mahasarakham effective yield, it became of interest to other peasant University. households who would plant it in their own field. Second, social interaction is seen in the exchange of References rice and desserts, such as swapping Khao kam or 1 Bashir K, N M Khan, S Rashed & M Salim, Indica rice black rice and some non-glutinous rice varieties. varietal development in Pakistan: an overview, Paddy Water Thirdly, it can be used as foreign exchange in return Environ, 5 (2007) 73-81. 2 Unnevehr L J, “Consumer demand for rice grain quality and for labor if the farm owner does not pay a salary to returns to research for quality improvement in Southeast contractors for rice as compensation for help in Asia”, Am J Agr Econ, 68(3) (1986) 634-641. farming. 3 Goodwin HL, Rodney Jr, Holcomb B & M Edward Rister, Implicit Price Estimation of Rice Quality Attributes for Conclusion Asian Americans, J Agric App Econ, 28 (2) (1996) 291-302. Farmers’ use of traditional knowledge utilization of 4 Tang S X, Y Z Jiang, X H Wei, Z C Li & & H Y Yu, Genetic rice landraces in the study areas have many diversity of isozymes of cultivated rice in china, Acta Agron significant implications for human livelihood not only Sin, 28 (2002) 203-207. 5 Tuginda T, A Wannajit & S Trakunrung, “Progress rice in terms of food but also other purposes such as research of Khao-Man-Kung product of Thai’s life” in medicine, ritual and traditional ceremony, agricultural Yoadhathai Teptaranon and Kallyavim Kiratikorn. (eds.). and animal feeding, wine and native whisky Bangkok. (in Thai), 2005. .Knowledge of different forms of its use as foods, 6 Lovelace G W, Subhadhira S & Simaraks S (eds.), Rapid medicine, ritual and traditional ceremony; agriculture Rural Appraisal In Northeast Thailand: Case Studies. Khon kaen, Thailand: KKU-FORD Rural Systems Research and animal feeding; and economic purposes and Project, Khon Kaen University, 1988. exchange. Its implications for native rice were 7 Rerkasem B, Transforming Subsistence Cropping in Asia, complied for in situ conservation in communities that Plant Prod Sci, 8(3) (2005) 273-285. were significant for policy-making to support them. 8 Rahman S, M P Sharma & S Sahai, Nutritional and On basis of their utilizations we suggested that mostly medicinal values of some indigenous rice varieties, Indian J used of rice landraces group should be promoted for Tradit Knowle, 5(4) (2006) 454-458. widely cultivated and improved varieties for breeding. 9 Hegde S, N B Yenagi & B Kasturiba, Indigenous knowledge of the traditional and qualified ayurveda practitioners on the On the other hand, moderately used, specific used and nutritional significance and use of red rice in medicine, rarely used rice varieties are subjected to in situ Indian J Tradit Knowle, 12(4) (2013) 506-511. conservation in the areas studied. 10 Jacqueline A & Hart MD, (department of International Medicine, Newton-Wellesley Hospital, Harvard University), Acknowledgement 2001. Authors are grateful that this project is financially 11 Sriborikit S, Situation of Organic Agriculture. Department of supported by the Biodiversity Research and Training Bureau of Agricultural Economics, Thailand. (in Thai).2009. http://www.oae.go.th/ewtadmin/ewt/oae_baer/download/artic Program (BRT) in Thailand. We also thank the le/article_20111013102515.pdf farmers in the sites studies for the information and 12 Rijal D K, Role of Food Tradition in Conserving Crop Land friendliness that made this research successful. For races On-Farm, J Agric Envir, 11 (2010)