Tarilian Log 2012
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tarilian Mediterranean Voyage Cruising from Menorca to Dalmatia Log 2012 Menorca, Sardinia, Sicily, Ionian Italy, South Adriatic Italy, Central Dalmatia Part 1 May/June : Menorca to Sicily page 7 July : Palermo and surroundings page 37 Part 2 August/September : Palermo to Croatia page 51 Disclaimer IPR: All texts and photographs in this document belong to Wilhelm Hartl, 40 Prebend Mansions, London W4 2LU. Web: www.whartl.com (2012) This document represents the personal view of the author at the time of writing. No responsibility will be accepted in relation to the information provided. None of the material must be used for commercial purposes . Menorca to Dalmatia – Cruise Log 2012 Page 2 of 102 Introduction to the Log 2012 In 2010 I started thinking about taking our motorboat Tarilian, a used Trader 535, from the UK to the Central Mediterranean and Adriatic Sea under its own steam, as an alternative to commercial transportation services. The idea was to take our time, as a cruising couple, and, as far as practically possible, do sensible coastal day journeys and enjoy seeing interesting places en route. The preferred route was around the Iberian peninsula, and then via the major Mediterranean islands rather than taking detours along continental coasts. Given the periods of time we wanted to spend on board, the journey would be done over two seasons. I was aware that it would mean a major effort in preparation and execution, as well as costs, but the time seemed right and we expected to gain valuable and unique experience. In our first cruising season, 2011, we took our boat from her home port of Falmouth in Cornwall to the Biscay, around the Iberian peninsula and via Gibraltar into the Mediterranean Sea. Then along the Spanish Costas and to the Balearic islands, eventually arriving in Menorca. Tarilian was dry berthed in Mahon over winter. In 2012 we continue our journey East across the Mediterranean: From Menorca to Sardinia, around its North and Northeast coasts, then straight down to Sicily. In the final part of the journey we visit the Aeolian islands and Sicily’s Etna region. From there follow the Ionian coast to the Strait of Otranto, and along Italy’s Adriatic coast up to the ‘spur’ of the ‘boot’, and across to Croatia our final destination. In early September the journey is successfully completed on schedule, Tarilian is berthed in Central Dalmatia near Primosten. Menorca to Dalmatia – Cruise Log 2012 Page 3 of 102 Part 1 Menorca - Palermo Part 2 Palermo - Primosten Menorca to Dalmatia – Cruise Log 2012 Page 4 of 102 Cruising from Menorca to Dalmatia, Log 2012 the figures Mahon - Palermo Nautical miles logged 667 Fuel 3518 ltr, or 5.3 ltr/nm Engine hours 74 Cruising speed 9.5 -11 kn Palermo – Primosten Nautical miles logged 884 Fuel 4312 ltr or 4.9 ltr/nm Engine hours 106 Cruising speed 9 - 11 kn -------------------------------------- Total for 2012 season, Mahon - Primosten Nautical miles logged 1551 Fuel consumption 7830 ltr or 5.05 ltr/nm Engine hours 180 About “Tarilian” Make/model Trader 535 Style Trawler style flybridge cruiser with aft cabin Hull GRP, semi-displacement Year built 2000 Length overall 54 ft / 16.5m Beam 14 ft / 4.6 m Draught 5 ft / 1.5m Displacement ca. 25 tons Engines 2x Volvo TAMD73 EDC Diesel . Menorca to Dalmatia – Cruise Log 2012 Page 5 of 102 Log 2012 – Mileage Plan (nm) Day Destination daily since total comment log refuel 2012 May-07 Mahon 12 12 Sea trial. Flag Spain May-08 Trip around Menorca N, Cala 52 0 64 refuelled 400 ltr Pregonda May-09 Mahon – Alghero (Sardinia) overnight 191 191 255 Flag Italy May-10 Alghero Marina S.Elmo 191 255 Alghero attractive May-11 Alghero – Stintino, Marina Stintino 38 229 293 May-12 Castelsardo, Marina di Frigiano 23 252 316 attractive May-13 Castelsardo - Bonifacio 34 286 350 attractive. Flag France May-14 Bonifacio 0 350 refuelled 1520 ltr May-15 Bonifacio - St Teresa Gallura 14 14 364 Flag Italy May-17 S.Teresa G.- La Maddalena, Cala 19 33 383 tour around Maddalena Gavezzi nature reserve May-18 Maddalena - Marina di Portisco 18 51 401 May-20 Portisco - Olbia, Marina di Olbia 16 67 417 May-22 Olbia 67 417 Flight London 0 417 refuelled 290 ltr Jun-09 Olbia - Palermo (Sicily) overnight 250 250 667 Jun-10 Palermo, Marina VillaIgiea 250 667 refuelled 1308 ltr 0 667 Flight London Palermo visit, July: 0 667 Jul-12 Palermo-Mondello-Palermo 14 14 681 Jul-13 Palermo-I.delle Femmine-Palermo 28 42 709 Jul-15 Palermo-Seno di S.Elia-Palermo 19 61 728 61 728 Flight London Aug-10 Palermo, Marina Villaigiea 0 61 728 Aug-11 Cefalu, Marina Services Cefalu 35 96 763 attractive (Marina di Cefalu) Aeolian Islands: 96 763 attractive Aug-12 I.Salina S.Marina Salina, via I.Filicudi 60 156 823 around N of Filicudi Aug-13 Lipari, Marina Lunga. Via I.Panareia 21 177 844 anchorage C.Millazzo Aug 14 Milazzo Marina Nettuno, via I.Volcano 27 204 871 anchorage Formaggio, P.Levante Aug 15 Riposto Marina Porto del Etna 62 266 933 safe marina 0 0 933 refuel 1191 ltr Aug 16 Riposto - Naxos Giardini - Riposto 28 28 961 Aug-19 Riposto - Rocella Ion. 72 100 1033 Aug-20 Rec.Ion. - Crotone 65 165 1098 Aug-21 Crotone - Santa Maria di Leuca 71 236 1169 Aug-22 S.Maria di Leuca - Brindisi 66 302 1235 0 1235 refuelled 1542 ltr Aug-23 Brindisi - Bisceglie, Bisceglieapprodi 78 78 1313 Aug-24 Bisceglie - Vieste, moorings Darsena 42 120 1355 Aug-25 Vieste - Komiza/Vis 71 191 1426 attractive. Flag Croatia Aug-28 Vis -Seget 46 237 1472 via Pakleni Is. Aug-29 Seget - Kremik 23 260 1495 Aug-31 Rogosniza, Marina Frapa 7 267 1502 Sep-02 Zlarin via Kaprije 27 294 1529 Zlarin attractive Sep-03 Kremik 17 311 1546 Sep-06 Kremik 5 316 1551 refuelled 1579 ltr Flight London total fuel 7830 ltr Menorca to Dalmatia – Cruise Log 2012 Page 6 of 102 tarilian Mediterranean Voyage Cruising from Menorca to Dalmatia, Log 2012 Part 1 Menorca to Palermo, May/June 2012 MENORCA page 8 MAHON to ALGHERO page 10 SARDINIA’S NORTHWEST COAST page 13 BONIFACIO page 16 LA MADDALENA page 22 THE COSTA SMERALDA page 26 OLBIA page 29 OLBIA to PALERMO page 33 Holiday in Palermo, July 2012 page 37 Menorca to Dalmatia – Cruise Log 2012 Page 7 of 102 PART I MENORCA TO SICILY April 2012. Preamble The winter is over, certainly in Menorca; I arrive on April 26 th to check the boat and the status of the maintenance works. After sitting high and dry in Pedro’s boat yard for six month, Tarilian goes back into the water on April 27th. I return to London the next day. The flight inconveniently takes 2 stops, same as coming here; there are no direct flights before May. May 2012. MAHON to OLBIA via Sardinia’s Northwest Coast and La Maddalena May 1, Tuesday . Journey to Mahon. Our travel is made unpleasant by having to get up early, taxi ride to Gatwick in appalling rain, and then a full 5 hours’ wait for departure because of a technical problem. Eventually the aircraft gets replaced. In Spain May 1 st is a holiday. I have covered historic Mahon and its extraordinary natural harbour in my Log 2011. May 2 – 7, In and around Mahon We meet Predo’s team. Tarilian gets cleaned, final repair and maintenance jobs are completed. Tarilian on Pedro’s mooring, in the background the San Francisco convent in Old Town Menorca to Dalmatia – Cruise Log 2012 Page 8 of 102 The boat yard in Mahon operates the same way as they do in Britain: Although there has been a schedule with several months’ notice, some of the works are delayed and only get completed a few days after the deadline. Anyway, the time passes comfortably; one afternoon we make a trip to Ciutadella, the historic capital of Menorca, by car, and visit an interesting talayotic settlement. May 8, Tuesday Cala Pregonda and no boats The boat is ready and we take it out to the North coast, target Cala Pregonda. The purpose of this trip is also to give the machinery a run after the winter break and before the long crossing to Sardinia. All works fine. The way to Pregonda is easy in SE winds, on the way back we get some swell and spray. Close to Cabo es Nord we receive a DSC call from Radio Menorca, asking whether we can help with a Mayday relay call in French; we talk to Palma coastguard, but are unable to help: There are no boats Menorca to Dalmatia – Cruise Log 2012 Page 9 of 102 around us at all, and we had no VHF contact. Later we are passed by a sailing yacht which does not show any signs of distress. Afterwards, I am impressed to find that the rescue coordination people, who must have located us by AIS, had even called our sat phone (but we did not hear it from the fly bridge). Cala Pregonda, at this time of the year without any boats, is an impressing rocky cove and beach, but not ‘deserted’ any longer; there is a building on the W side, directly on the beach, and apparently some more in construction. May 9, Wednesday Crossing to Sardinia We have taken our time, and the weather forecast for our crossing to Sardinia is very good. Lluis, a likeable Menorquin student and experienced sailor, will accompany us on the overnight trip.