with Tony Abou-Ganim www.themodernmixologist.com Me & My Negroni

recently did some cocktail seminars a slice of orange, as they like to serve them aboard Crystal Cruises’ Serenity. I met in Italy, and told the story of Count Negroni Iup with the ship (I learned quickly not to adding gin to the Americano. (The Americano call it a boat) in Venice, where I fi rst enjoyed is also known as the Milano-Torino, from the several Bellinis at Harry’s Bar before going origin of its ingredients: Campari from Milan aboard. Two days later we docked in Livor- and Cinzano from Turin). no, the gateway to Florence. I was about to I set out to fi nd Café Giacosa, and fi nd it I begin my quest to fi nd the birthplace of my did, still in operation, though closed that after- favorite tipple, the Negroni. noon in honor of All Saints Day. It is now lo- According to Lucca Picchi, head bartender cated inside Roberto Cavalli’s beautiful show- at Caffe Rivoire, in his book Sulle tracche del room—great bars giving way to high fashion, Conte: la vera stroria del cocktail ‘Negroni’ a bit of a shame. So I decided to seek out Caffe (On the Tracks of the Count: The True Story of Rivoire and ask Lucca himself. I located the the Negroni Cocktail), Italian count Camillo classic caffe in the Piazza Signoria, only Negroni started adding gin to the classic to discover that Lucca was not working. I did, Americano to give the drink more of a kick. however, enjoy one last masterful Negroni in Apparently the bar he frequented in Florence, the city that made this cocktail famous before circa 1920, was Bar Casoni on the famous heading back to the ship with fond memories Via Tornabuoni, and the gentleman working and a great desire to return. behind the stick was Fosco Scarselli. I, for one, must get to the bottom of this, but I attempted to search out Bar Casoni and for now I’ll settle for getting to the bottom of a found it to have been fi nal Negroni back onboard the Serenity. closed up long ago. But I did happen into a Negroni charming restaurant 1 oz. Plymouth gin called Trattoria La 1 oz. Campari Madia, where I had 1 oz. Martini & Rossi sweet vermouth a delicious risotto In an ice-fi lled mixing glass, add with fresh porcini Plymouth gin, Campari and Martini mushrooms and & Rossi vermouth. Stir until well met bartender blended. Strain into a chilled cocktail Gennaro Fab- glass. Garnish with a burnt orange brocino, who had twist. worked at Caffe Riv- oire and knew Lucca Americano Picchi. He claimed that 1 oz. Campari the drink was actually fi rst 1 oz. Cinzano Rosso sweet vermouth mixed at a joint called Café chilled soda water Giacosa, also located on Via Torn- Build in an ice fi lled tall highball glass, top abuoni. He made me a wonderful with chilled soda water, stir. Garnish with a Negroni, on the rocks with slice of orange.

18 / the tasting panel / september 2008

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