Littoral Cells, Sand Budgets, and Beaches: Understanding California S
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A Field Experiment on a Nourished Beach
CHAPTER 157 A Field Experiment on a Nourished Beach A.J. Fernandez* G. Gomez Pina * G. Cuena* J.L. Ramirez* Abstract The performance of a beach nourishment at" Playa de Castilla" (Huel- va, Spain) is evaluated by means of accurate beach profile surveys, vi- sual breaking wave information, buoy-measured wave data and sediment samples. The shoreline recession at the nourished beach due to "profile equilibration" and "spreading out" losses is discussed. The modified equi- librium profile curve proposed by Larson (1991) is shown to accurately describe the profiles with a grain size varying across-shore. The "spread- ing out" losses measured at " Playa de Castilla" are found to be less than predicted by spreading out formulations. The utilization of borrowed material substantially coarser than the native material is suggested as an explanation. 1 INTRODUCTION Fernandez et al. (1990) presented a case study of a sand bypass project at "Playa de Castilla" (Huelva, Spain) and the corresponding monitoring project, that was going to be undertaken. The Beach Nourishment Monitoring Project at the "Playa de Castilla" was begun over two years ago. The project is being *Direcci6n General de Costas. M.O.P.T, Madrid (Spain) 2043 2044 COASTAL ENGINEERING 1992 carried out to evaluate the performance of a beach fill and to establish effective strategies of coastal management and represents one of the most comprehensive monitoring projects that has been undertaken in Spain. This paper summa- rizes and discusses the data set for wave climate, beach profiles and sediment samples. 2 STUDY SITE & MONITORING PROGRAM Playa de Castilla, Fig. 1, is a sandy beach located on the South-West coast of Spain between the Guadiana and Gualdalquivir rivers. -
Beach Nourishment: Massdep's Guide to Best Management Practices for Projects in Massachusetts
BBEACHEACH NNOURISHMEOURISHMENNTT MassDEP’sMassDEP’s GuideGuide toto BestBest ManagementManagement PracticesPractices forfor ProjectsProjects inin MassachusettsMassachusetts March 2007 acknowledgements LEAD AUTHORS: Rebecca Haney (Coastal Zone Management), Liz Kouloheras, (MassDEP), Vin Malkoski (Mass. Division of Marine Fisheries), Jim Mahala (MassDEP) and Yvonne Unger (MassDEP) CONTRIBUTORS: From MassDEP: Fred Civian, Jen D’Urso, Glenn Haas, Lealdon Langley, Hilary Schwarzenbach and Jim Sprague. From Coastal Zone Management: Bob Boeri, Mark Borrelli, David Janik, Julia Knisel and Wendolyn Quigley. Engineering consultants from Applied Coastal Research and Engineering Inc. also reviewed the document for technical accuracy. Lead Editor: David Noonan (MassDEP) Design and Layout: Sandra Rabb (MassDEP) Photography: Sandra Rabb (MassDEP) unless otherwise noted. Massachusetts Massachusetts Office Department of of Coastal Zone Environmental Protection Management 1 Winter Street 251 Causeway Street Boston, MA Boston, MA table of contents I. Glossary of Terms 1 II. Summary 3 II. Overview 6 • Purpose 6 • Beach Nourishment 6 • Specifications and Best Management Practices 7 • Permit Requirements and Timelines 8 III. Technical Attachments A. Beach Stability Determination 13 B. Receiving Beach Characterization 17 C. Source Material Characterization 21 D. Sample Problem: Beach and Borrow Site Sediment Analysis to Determine Stability of Nourishment Material for Shore Protection 22 E. Generic Beach Monitoring Plan 27 F. Sample Easement 29 G. References 31 GLOSSARY Accretion - the gradual addition of land by deposition of water-borne sediment. Beach Fill – also called “artificial nourishment”, “beach nourishment”, “replenishment”, and “restoration,” comprises the placement of sediment within the nearshore sediment transport system (see littoral zone). (paraphrased from Dean, 2002) Beach Profile – the cross-sectional shape of a beach plotted perpendicular to the shoreline. -
Feasibility Study of an Artifical Sandy Beach at Batumi, Georgia
FEASIBILITY STUDY OF AN ARTIFICAL SANDY BEACH AT BATUMI, GEORGIA ARCADIS/TU DELFT : MSc Report FEASIBILITY STUDY OF AN ARTIFICAL SANDY BEACH AT BATUMI, GEORGIA Date May 2012 Graduate C. Pepping Educational Institution Delft University of Technology, Faculty Civil Engineering & Geosciences Section Hydraulic Engineering, Chair of Coastal Engineering MSc Thesis committee Prof. dr. ir. M.J.F. Stive Delft University of Technology Dr. ir. M. Zijlema Delft University of Technology Ir. J. van Overeem Delft University of Technology Ir. M.C. Onderwater ARCADIS Nederland BV Company ARCADIS Nederland BV, Division Water PREFACE Preface This Master thesis is the final part of the Master program Hydraulic Engineering of the chair Coastal Engineering at the faculty Civil Engineering & Geosciences of the Delft University of Technology. This research is done in cooperation with ARCADIS Nederland BV. The report represents the work done from July 2011 until May 2012. I would like to thank Jan van Overeem and Martijn Onderwater for the opportunity to perform this research at ARCADIS and the opportunity to graduate on such an interesting subject with many different aspects. I would also like to thank Robbin van Santen for all his help and assistance for the XBeach model. Furthermore I owe a special thanks to my graduation committee for the valuable input and feedback: Prof. dr. ir. M.J.F. Stive (Delft University of Technology) for his support and interest in my graduation work; Dr. ir. M. Zijlema (Delft University of Technology) for his support and reviewing the report; ir. J. van Overeem (Delft University of Technology ) for his supervisions, useful feedback and help, support and for reviewing the report; and ir. -
Recent Sediments of the Monterey Deep-Sea Fan
UC Berkeley Hydraulic Engineering Laboratory Reports Title Recent Sediments of the Monterey Deep-Sea Fan Permalink https://escholarship.org/uc/item/5f440431 Author Wilde, Pat Publication Date 1965-05-01 Peer reviewed eScholarship.org Powered by the California Digital Library University of California RECENT SEDIMENTS OF THE MONTEREY DEEP-SEA FAN A thesis presented by Pat Wilde to The Department of Geological Sciences in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doc tor of Philosophy in the subject of Geology Harvard Univer sity Cambridge, Massachusetts May 1965 Copyright reserved by the author University of California Hydraulic Engineering Laboratory Submitted under Contract DA- 49- 055-CIV-ENG- 63-4 with the Coastal Engineering Research Center, U. S. Army Technical Report No. HEL-2-13 RECENT SEDIMENTS OF THE MONTEREY DEEP-SEA FAN by Pat Wilde Berkeley, California May, 1965 CONTENTS Page Abstract ................... 1 Introduction ...................... 5 Definition ..................... 5 Location ..................... 5 Regional Setting .............. 8 Subjects of Investigation ............... 9 Sources of Data .................. 10 Acknowledgements ................ 10 Geomorphology ..................11 Major Features ..............'11 FanSlope ................... 11 Under sea Positive Relief ............15 Submarine Canyon-Channel Systems . 16 Hydraulic Geometry ................ 19 Calculations ............... 19 Comparison with other Channel Systems ..30 Lithology ........................32 Sampling Techniques ............... -
Measuring Currents in Submarine Canyons: Technological and Scientifi C Progress in the Past 30 Years
Exploring the Deep Sea and Beyond themed issue Measuring currents in submarine canyons: Technological and scientifi c progress in the past 30 years J.P. Xu U.S. Geological Survey, 345 Middlefi eld Road, MS-999, Menlo Park, California 94025, USA ABSTRACT 1. INTRODUCTION processes, and summarize and discuss several future research challenges constructed primar- The development and application of The publication of the American Association ily for submarine canyons in temperate climate, acoustic and optical technologies and of of Petroleum Geologists Studies in Geology 8: such as the California coast. accurate positioning systems in the past Currents in Submarine Canyons and Other Sea 30 years have opened new frontiers in the Valleys (Shepard et al., 1979) marked a signifi - 2. TECHNOLOGICAL ADVANCES submarine canyon research communities. cant milestone in submarine canyon research. IN CURRENT OBSERVATION IN This paper reviews several key advance- Although there had been studies on the topics of SUBMARINE CANYONS ments in both technology and science in the submarine canyon hydrodynamics and sediment fi eld of currents in submarine canyons since processes in various journals since the 1930s 2.1. Instrumentation the1979 publication of Currents in Subma- (Shepard et al., 1939; Emory and Hulsemann, rine Canyons and Other Sea Valleys by Fran- 1963; Ryan and Heezen 1965; Inman, 1970; Instrument development has come a long way cis Shepard and colleagues. Precise place- Drake and Gorsline, 1973; Shepard, 1975), this in the past 30 yr. The greatest leap in the tech- ments of high-resolution, high-frequency book was the fi rst of its kind to provide descrip- nology of fl ow measurements was the transition instruments have not only allowed research- tion and discussion on the various phenomena from mechanical to acoustic current meters. -
The Project for Pilot Gravel Beach Nourishment Against Coastal Disaster on Fongafale Island in Tuvalu
MINISTRY OF FOREIGN AFFAIRS, TRADES, TOURISM, ENVIRONMENT AND LABOUR THE GOVERNMENT OF TUVALU THE PROJECT FOR PILOT GRAVEL BEACH NOURISHMENT AGAINST COASTAL DISASTER ON FONGAFALE ISLAND IN TUVALU FINAL REPORT (SUPPORTING REPORT) April 2018 JAPAN INTERNATIONAL COOPERATION AGENCY NIPPON KOEI CO., LTD. FUTABA INC. GE JR 18-058 MINISTRY OF FOREIGN AFFAIRS, TRADES, TOURISM, ENVIRONMENT AND LABOUR THE GOVERNMENT OF TUVALU THE PROJECT FOR PILOT GRAVEL BEACH NOURISHMENT AGAINST COASTAL DISASTER ON FONGAFALE ISLAND IN TUVALU FINAL REPORT (SUPPORTING REPORT) April 2018 JAPAN INTERNATIONAL COOPERATION AGENCY NIPPON KOEI CO., LTD. FUTABA INC. Table of Contents Supporting Report-1 Study on the Quality and Quantity of Materials in Phase-1 (quote from Interim Report 1) .............................................................. SR-1 Supporting Report-2 Planning and Design in Phase-1 (quote from Interim Report 1) ............ SR-2 Supporting Report-3 Design Drawing ..................................................................................... SR-3 Supporting Report-4 Project Implementation Plan in Phase-1 (quote from Interim Report 1)................................................................................................. SR-4 Supporting Report-5 Preliminary Environmental Assessment Report (PEAR) ....................... SR-5 Supporting Report-6 Public Consultation in Phase-1 (quote from Interim Report 1) .............. SR-6 Supporting Report-7 Bidding Process (quote from Progress Report) ...................................... SR-7 Supporting -
Dynamics of Beach Sand Made Easy
Dynamics of Beaches Made Easy Page 1 Dynamics Of Beaches Made Easy San Diego County Chapter of the Surfrider Foundation 1. Introduction Beaches are made up of more than just sand. In California beaches are generally formed by erosion of uplifted plates resulting in cliff backed beaches or in the delta areas of rivers or watersheds. Beach sand is an important element of beaches but not the only element. Wavecut platforms or tidal terraces are equally important in many areas of San Diego. The movement of beach sand is governed by many complex processes and variables. However, there are a few very basic elements that tend to control not only how much sand ends up on our beaches, but also how much sand exists near enough to the shore to be deposited on the beach under favorable conditions. The following is a brief description of the most important issues influencing the current condition of our local beaches with respect to sand. Dynamics of Beaches Made Easy Page 2 2. Geology The geology of San Diego County varies from sea cliffs to sandy beaches. Beaches are generally found at the mouths of lagoons or in the lagoon or river outfalls. Cliffs formed by tectonic activity and the erosion via marine forces deserve special mention. Much of San Diego’s coastline consists of a wavecut platform sometimes referred to as a tidal terrace. A wavecut platform is formed where a seacliff is eroded by marine action, meaning waves, resulting in the deposition of cliff material and formation of a bedrock area where erosion occurred. -
The Shifting Sand of Provincetown
The Shifting Sand of Provincetown Greg Berman (Woods Hole Sea Grant & Cape Cod Cooperative Extension) March 15, 2019 Glacial History 25,000 yr ago 400’ below SL, ~1 mile thick By ~ 15,000 ice was gone. 11,000 years ago 6,000 years ago Present Day (Shaw et al., 2002) General Coastal Processes Longshore Sediment Transport +3’/yr +4’/yr +5’/yr +8’/yr -2’/yr -2’/yr -1’/yr 0’/yr Direction of Direction of Longshore Current Longshore Current Deposition Erosion Downdrift Coastal Structure Source: MORIS: CZM’s Online Mapping Tool Longshore Sediment Transport Longshore Sediment Transport Longshore Sediment Transport Longshore Sediment Transport Longshore Sediment Transport Google Earth Engine: Timelapse is a global, zoomable video that lets you see how the Earth has changed over the past 32 years. It is made from 33 cloud-free annual mosaics, one for each year from 1984 to 2016, which are made interactively explorable by Carnegie Mellon University CREATE Lab's Time Machine library. General Coastal Processes Coastal Processes: Barrier Migration Perpendicular to Shore Overwash: Storms push sand across the island and into the lagoon area beyond. Barrier `rolls over on itself.‘ Coastal Processes: Barrier Migration Perpendicular to Shore Adapted from http://www.nasa.gov/vision/earth/lookingatearth/katrina_poststorm.html Peggotty Beach 2016 Video by Peter Miles Perpendicular Transport…….Blocked input 1.3mi What is Erosion? It’s all sediment transport! What is Erosion???..... just more leaving than coming in Accretion Dynamic Equilibrium Erosion Living with Erosion 1. Erosion of glacial landforms is the MOST important source of sediment for dunes and beaches in Massachusetts. -
Shoreline Stabilisation
Section 5 SHORELINE STABILISATION 5.1 Overview of Options Options for handling beach erosion along the western segment of Shelley Beach include: • Do Nothing – which implies letting nature take its course; • Beach Nourishment – place or pump sand on the beach to restore a beach; • Wave Dissipating Seawall – construct a wave dissipating seawall in front of or in lieu of the vertical wall so that wave energy is absorbed and complete protection is provided to the boatsheds and bathing boxes behind the wall for a 50 year planning period; • Groyne – construct a groyne, somewhere to the east of Campbells Road to prevent sand from the western part of Shelley Beach being lost to the eastern part of Shelley Beach; • Offshore Breakwater – construct a breakwater parallel to the shoreline and seaward of the existing jetties to dissipate wave energy before it reaches the beach; and • Combinations of the above. 5.2 Do Nothing There is no reason to believe that the erosion process that has occurred over at least the last 50 years, at the western end of Shelley Beach, will diminish. If the water depth over the nearshore bank has deepened, as it appears visually from aerial photographs, the wave heights and erosive forces may in fact increase. Therefore “Do Nothing” implies that erosion will continue, more structures will be threatened and ultimately damaged, and the timber vertical wall become undermined and fail, exposing the structures behind the wall to wave forces. The cliffs behind the wall will be subjected to wave forces and will be undermined if they are not founded on solid rock. -
ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT ASSESSMENT Proposed Coastal Modification Works at Ayada Maldives Gdh
ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT ASSESSMENT Proposed Coastal Modification Works at Ayada Maldives GDh. Magudhdhuvaa Island August 2019 Prepared for: Maldives Tourism Development Corporation (MTDC) PLC Prepared by: Mohamed Zuhair (EIA01/15) & Ibrahim Shakir (BP03106) Page | 1 TABLE OF CONTENTS .............................................................................................................................................. 14 1. EXECUTIVE SUMMARY .......................................................................................................... 17 2. INTRODUCTION ........................................................................................................................ 21 2.1 OVERVIEW OF THE PROJECT ......................................................................................... 21 2.2 LEGAL REQUIREMENT .................................................................................................... 22 2.3 PROJECT JUSTIFICATION AND RATIONALE .............................................................. 23 2.4 DONORS AND INSTITUTIONAL ARRANGEMENTS ................................................... 25 2.5 EIA BACKGROUND AND RATIONALE ......................................................................... 25 2.6 EIA APPROACH, SCOPE AND OBJECTIVE ................................................................... 25 2.7 EIA METHODOLOGY ........................................................................................................ 26 2.8 REVIEW OF RELEVANT STUDIES ................................................................................ -
Mapping the Canyon
Deep East 2001— Grades 9-12 Focus: Bathymetry of Hudson Canyon Mapping the Canyon FOCUS Part III: Bathymetry of Hudson Canyon ❒ Library Books GRADE LEVEL AUDIO/VISUAL EQUIPMENT 9 - 12 Overhead Projector FOCUS QUESTION TEACHING TIME What are the differences between bathymetric Two 45-minute periods maps and topographic maps? SEATING ARRANGEMENT LEARNING OBJECTIVES Cooperative groups of two to four Students will be able to compare and contrast a topographic map to a bathymetric map. MAXIMUM NUMBER OF STUDENTS 30 Students will investigate the various ways in which bathymetric maps are made. KEY WORDS Topography Students will learn how to interpret a bathymet- Bathymetry ric map. Map Multibeam sonar ADAPTATIONS FOR DEAF STUDENTS Canyon None required Contour lines SONAR MATERIALS Side-scan sonar Part I: GLORIA ❒ 1 Hudson Canyon Bathymetry map trans- Echo sounder parency ❒ 1 local topographic map BACKGROUND INFORMATION ❒ 1 USGS Fact Sheet on Sea Floor Mapping A map is a flat representation of all or part of Earth’s surface drawn to a specific scale Part II: (Tarbuck & Lutgens, 1999). Topographic maps show elevation of landforms above sea level, ❒ 1 local topographic map per group and bathymetric maps show depths of land- ❒ 1 Hudson Canyon Bathymetry map per group forms below sea level. The topographic eleva- ❒ 1 Hudson Canyon Bathymetry map trans- tions and the bathymetric depths are shown parency ❒ with contour lines. A contour line is a line on a Contour Analysis Worksheet map representing a corresponding imaginary 59 Deep East 2001— Grades 9-12 Focus: Bathymetry of Hudson Canyon line on the ground that has the same elevation sonar is the multibeam sonar. -
Coastal Processes Study at Ocean Beach, San Francisco, CA: Summary of Data Collection 2004-2006
Coastal Processes Study at Ocean Beach, San Francisco, CA: Summary of Data Collection 2004-2006 By Patrick L. Barnard, Jodi Eshleman, Li Erikson and Daniel M. Hanes Open-File Report 2007–1217 U.S. Department of the Interior U.S. Geological Survey U.S. Department of the Interior DIRK KEMPTHORNE, Secretary U.S. Geological Survey Mark D. Myers, Director U.S. Geological Survey, Reston, Virginia 2007 For product and ordering information: World Wide Web: http://www.usgs.gov/pubprod Telephone: 1-888-ASK-USGS For more information on the USGS—the Federal source for science about the Earth, its natural and living resources, natural hazards, and the environment: World Wide Web: http://www.usgs.gov Telephone: 1-888-ASK-USGS Barnard, P.L.., Eshleman, J., Erikson, L., and Hanes, D.M., 2007, Coastal processes study at Ocean Beach, San Francisco, CA; summary of data collection 2004-2006: U. S. Geological Survey Open-File Report 2007- 1217, 171 p. [http://pubs.usgs.gov/of/2007/1217/]. Any use of trade, product, or firm names is for descriptive purposes only and does not imply endorsement by the U.S. Government. Although this report is in the public domain, permission must be secured from the individual copyright owners to reproduce any copyrighted material contained within this report. ii Contents Executive Summary of Major Findings..................................................................................................................................1 Chapter 2 - Beach Topographic Mapping..............................................................................................................1