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Coastal Processes Study at Ocean Beach, San Francisco, CA: Summary of Data Collection 2004-2006

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Coastal Processes Study at Ocean Beach, San Francisco, CA: Summary of Data Collection 2004-2006 Coastal Processes Study at Ocean Beach, San Francisco, CA: Summary of Data Collection 2004-2006 By Patrick L. Barnard, Jodi Eshleman, Li Erikson and Daniel M. Hanes Open-File Report 2007–1217 U.S. Department of the Interior U.S. Geological Survey U.S. Department of the Interior DIRK KEMPTHORNE, Secretary U.S. Geological Survey Mark D. Myers, Director U.S. Geological Survey, Reston, Virginia 2007 For product and ordering information: World Wide Web: http://www.usgs.gov/pubprod Telephone: 1-888-ASK-USGS For more information on the USGS—the Federal source for science about the Earth, its natural and living resources, natural hazards, and the environment: World Wide Web: http://www.usgs.gov Telephone: 1-888-ASK-USGS Barnard, P.L.., Eshleman, J., Erikson, L., and Hanes, D.M., 2007, Coastal processes study at Ocean Beach, San Francisco, CA; summary of data collection 2004-2006: U. S. Geological Survey Open-File Report 2007- 1217, 171 p. [http://pubs.usgs.gov/of/2007/1217/]. Any use of trade, product, or firm names is for descriptive purposes only and does not imply endorsement by the U.S. Government. Although this report is in the public domain, permission must be secured from the individual copyright owners to reproduce any copyrighted material contained within this report. ii Contents Executive Summary of Major Findings..................................................................................................................................1 Chapter 2 - Beach Topographic Mapping..............................................................................................................1 Chapter 3 – Nearshore Surveys with Coastal Profiling System.........................................................................1 Chapter 4 – Image Monitoring..................................................................................................................................2 Chapter 5 – Offshore Instrument Deployments.....................................................................................................2 Chapter 6 – Surf Zone Instrument Deployments...................................................................................................3 Chapter 7 – Multibeam Mapping..............................................................................................................................3 Chapter 8 – Grain Size Mapping...............................................................................................................................3 Chapter 9 – High-resolution Subbottom Profiles...................................................................................................4 Chapter 10 – Numerical Modeling...........................................................................................................................4 Chapter 1- Introduction..........................................................................................................................................................5 Project Summary ............................................................................................................................................................5 Objectives.........................................................................................................................................................................5 Background .....................................................................................................................................................................5 Preliminary Findings.......................................................................................................................................................6 Prior Work........................................................................................................................................................................7 Future Work .....................................................................................................................................................................7 Report Outline..................................................................................................................................................................8 Project Support and Collaboration..............................................................................................................................8 Chapter 2- Beach Topographic Mapping ............................................................................................................................12 Introduction ...................................................................................................................................................................12 Methodology..................................................................................................................................................................12 Results ............................................................................................................................................................................13 Seasonal Change......................................................................................................................................................13 Storm-related Change..............................................................................................................................................13 Long-term Change ....................................................................................................................................................14 Beach Profile Analysis.............................................................................................................................................14 Dredge Disposal Monitoring...................................................................................................................................15 Empirical Model Development ...............................................................................................................................15 Discussion......................................................................................................................................................................15 Conclusions ...................................................................................................................................................................16 Chapter 3- Nearshore Surveys with Coastal Profiling System...........................................................................................29 Introduction ...................................................................................................................................................................29 Methodology..................................................................................................................................................................29 Results ............................................................................................................................................................................30 Seasonal Change......................................................................................................................................................30 Range of Elevation Change .....................................................................................................................................31 Nearshore Bar Growth and Trough Erosion ........................................................................................................31 Discussion......................................................................................................................................................................32 Conclusions ...................................................................................................................................................................32 Chapter 4- Image Monitoring..............................................................................................................................................45 Introduction ...................................................................................................................................................................45 Methods..........................................................................................................................................................................45 iii Results ............................................................................................................................................................................46 Time-averaged Images............................................................................................................................................46 Sandbars ....................................................................................................................................................................46 Rip Currents ...............................................................................................................................................................47 Time-stack Images ...................................................................................................................................................47 Discussion......................................................................................................................................................................49 Conclusions ...................................................................................................................................................................49
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