Lyngen Alps in the Arctic Circle Is an Expedition of a Lifetime
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Norwegian Skiing summit to sea amongst the serenity and astounding beauty of Norway’s Lyngen Alps in the Arctic Circle is an expedition of a lifetime CONQUEST + BY JULIE NIEUWENHUYS PHOTOGRAPHS BY CAROLINE VAN ’t HOFF 26 S–Magazine SNOWSPORTSCULTURE.COM SNOWSPORTSCULTURE.COM S–Magazine 27 BLUE SKIES, SCREECHING SEAGULLS AND SALTY SEA AIR; for a fleeting moment I wonder if I’m in the Mediterranean. But then reality hits me when I jump into the deep blue water off the sailboat, the Arctic Ice and shock sets in. It might have been brash to jump off a snowy boat into an ice-cold fjord so I quickly put on some clothes and am handed a typical Norse specialty; a shot of Aquavit, a double distilled potato 40% liqueur.. Skål! While most skiers stored away their skis in April, it is not quite the end of our winter. We found the ultimate way to prolong our ski season by a few weeks. We are at the small Norwegian airport of Tromsø, 300 kilometres above the Arctic Circle, where we welcome our tired friends, who have flown in from North America. Our crew for this Arctic adventure consists of pro skier Molly Baker, a film crew from Mt. Baker and a few of our lucky Dutch friends. It’s an eclectic group and although our backgrounds are completely different, we all share a passion for skiing. For the next month we’ll be traveling by ski, boat and car through the Lyngen Alps in Northern Norway. In this remote area on the same latitude as Siberia and Alaska, where impressive mountains and deep blue fjords dominate the scenery. AIN’T NO MOUNTAIN HIGH ENOUGH and Italy. This fishy smell is not at all pleasant in the morning, so From Tromsø we drive through a desolate countryside passing we quickly attach our skins to our skis and begin our climb through fishing boats and red wooden houses with grassy roofswhich is a spacious birch tree forest. We eventually emerge from the forest commonly used for insolation. We are in no hurry, especially as at where we notice the calm fjords below us which reflect the white this time of year there is no darkness. In May, the North of Norway mountains and dark clouds. This dramatic backdrop gives us a experiences 24 hours of daylight, a phenomenon known as the boost of energy. The more height we gain, the further we can see midnight sun. This allows touring in the middle of the night while and in the distance we spot the Barents Sea. On the summit of enjoying the stunning orange and pink skies. Kjelvågtinden at 1,104 metres we soak up the magical surround- On the ferry to the isle of Uløya a strong fishy aroma wafts to- ings and arehumbled by the beauty and magnitude these ancient wards us. On the quay, we see giant wooden racks, where hundreds mountains. After a cup of hot tea we’re stoked to continue towards of fish hang to dry. It turns out to be cod, which is exported to Africa the hard-earned descent. We point our skis towards the fjord — 28 S–Magazine SNOWSPORTSCULTURE.COM SNOWSPORTSCULTURE.COM S–Magazine 29 WE SAIL PAST WHITE SANDY BEACHES, BORDERED BY EXTREME MOUNTAINS FEATURING ALASKAN STYLE SPINE LINES 30 S–Magazine SNOWSPORTSCULTURE.COM SNOWSPORTSCULTURE.COM S–Magazine 31 LYNGEN ALPS: AT A GLANCE WHEN TO GO? That depends on what you want to do. If you go during the winter season(December through to March) you have the best chance to see the Northern Lights. The best pow- der is generally found in March, and for a combination of corn snow and powder you should come around mid-April. After mid- May you can experience the midnight sun. WHERE TO STAY? Renting a furnished fisherman’s cabin at the fjord is an affordable option and you’ll also be able to choose your own tours. It WE SAIL PAST WHITE SANDY BEACHES, BORDERED BY doesn’t matter which way you drive, you’ll EXTREME MOUNTAINS FEATURING ALASKAN STYLE SPINE LINES always find great lines. By driving from hut to hut (“hytte”) which is now golden by the bright sun — and cruise down towards WHO LET THE DOGS OUT? you’ll experience more of the Lyngen Alps: the shimmering water. In the distance a herd of reindeer appear and In the distance we hear hundreds of barking dogs, 270 Alaskan Havnnes Handelssted is located 126 they seem just as surprised as us. What a surreal experience to ski Huskies to be exact, who are enthusiastically jumping from their kilometres north-east of Tromsø on the powder on an island among wild reindeer. pens to be petted. Just like us, they can’t wait to get going. As we island Uløya, where herds of wild reindeer Back at sea level another surprise awaits us: Johannes, a set off into the big open plains high above the fjord, I feel like an walk right outside your door. You can stay 13-year-old local, has readied his boat to take us fishing. Unfor- Arctic explorer on an expedition in past times. The total silence in spacious traditional Norwegian houses tunately, we don’t catch any fish but on the other side of the fjord brings calm and peace of mind. In a traditional Sami tent (similar from the 19th century www.giaver.net we discover gnarly couloirs funnelling into sea that can only be to a North American aboriginal tipi), used by the local nomadic Lauklines is located 35 kilometres west of reached by boat. This suits us just fine, because a brand new 47- people, we enjoy the afterglow of our day around a crackling fire. Tromsø. On the drive there you’ll pass white is great for BBQ’s and has a view of a little the mountains right behind the lodge or foot Delphia yacht awaits us in Tromsø. We fall asleep, with howling hounds in the background, and con- sandy beaches and you’ll be able to spot marina and snowy peaks www.sjobuer.no cross the fjord on their boat, the ‘Spirit of tinue dreaming, this time with our eyes closed. great couloirs. The beautiful new houses For a once in a lifetime experience you Lyngen’. www.lyngenlodge.com SAIL AWAY lie directly on the Kattfjord where you can can stay in the high end Lyngen Lodge. The Arctic Ice, XX-foot XXXX boat that has been adapted to manage ALL THE TIME IN THE WORLD catch you own diner www.lauklines.no Absolutely everything is taken care of by OTHER ACTIVITIES the extreme circumstances of the North, awaits us in the harbour. Even though we have been in Lyngen for nearly a month, we still Lyngen Havfiske is located 100 kilometres the welcoming staff. The rooms are warm Sailboats can be rented with Boreal Yacht- Together with our skipper and the owner of Boreal Yachting, Ivar can’t get used to the constant daylight and keep ‘forgetting’ to go north-east of Tromsø, in the most northern and inviting, the food is delicious and even ing for a ski & sail week. A skipper and Bertelsen, we hoist the sails. We sail past white sandy beaches, to bed on time. Even at 2 a.m., with the birds still singing, we have point of the Lyngen Alps. From here you include fresh scones at après-ski! There’s ski guide will join you during this Arctic bordered by extreme mountains featuring Alaskan style spine energy to burn. Next to our fishers cabin we build a small jib course can ski the steepest lines of the area or a library filled with books and films on adventure. www.boreal-yachting.no lines. The snow conditions vary every day so we ski all sorts of with a rail and an upside-down fishing boat as a kicker. With cold relax in the jacuzzi and dive into the fjord skiing and the Arctic. After an intense day -Villmarkssenter is the place to book snow, from corn snow to powder to breakable crust. We tour Arctic beers in hand, we enjoy our last night in this amazing place. afterwards www.lyngenhavfiske.no of hiking and skiing, the only thing you can a Husky sled ride just outside of Tromsø. remote peaks that are inaccessible except by boat and barely see Mid-May, in the middle of the night and far above the Arctic Circle Manndalen Sjøbuer is located 160 kilome- wish for is to heat up in the sauna or enjoy You can also stay in a traditional Sami tent another person for days. The nights are spent in tiny villages, some our skiing seasons ends. Surrounded by friends we celebrate the tres west of Tromsø. These cute, red fisher- a cold beer in the hot tub, with a fantastic www.villmarkssenter.no with as few as sevenresidents. In this remote wilderness we ski big fantastic winter we had and secretly long for the next! man’s cottages are basic, but do come with view of the fjord. Every day a guide will For other activities check out the open bowls, 40-degree chutes and technical lines. their own mini-sauna. The wooden quay lead you to the best snow: you can climb website of Norway’s Tourist Office: www. 32 S–Magazine SNOWSPORTSCULTURE.COM SNOWSPORTSCULTURE.COM S–Magazine 33 .