Mixing up Bloody Marys New York Bartenders Are Creating Surprising Riffs on the Popular Brunch Drink
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Mixing Up Bloody Marys New York bartenders are creating surprising riffs on the popular brunch drink. BY ELIN McCOY PHOTOGRAPH BY ZACHARY ZAVISLAK familiar drink in eccentric ways. WD- 50’s Proud Mary is pink and carbon- ated. Spins at The Rum House include UNDER THE WATCHFUL EYE OF A a version that uses white rye whiskey puckish old king, bartender Bill Dante instead of vodka and is garnished with lines up six different Bloody Marys a slice of spicy salami. The only con- on the smooth, polished wood. The stant ingredient is tomato juice. St. Regis hotel’s King Cole Bar—with At King Cole, one variation relies its famous Maxfield Parrish mural on smoky single malt, and another as backdrop—is where the ultimate features gin and clam juice. My fa- brunch drink was probably introduced vorite—the subtle Mary Terranean, to America more than 75 years ago. which is smoothed with olive oil—also What better starting point to assess got the vote of Jeffrey Pogash, author Manhattan’s new riffs on the recipe? of Bloody Mary (Thornwillow, 2011), The original Bloody Mary, called who was tagging along to offer advice. the Red Snapper at the King Cole “A good Bloody has to be a balance be- Bar, was a tangy mix of tomato juice, tween spice, spirit, bite and texture,” vodka, Worcestershire sauce, lemon Pogash says as we head downtown to juice, salt and cayenne pepper. Now, try more. DRINKS bartenders are transforming the At Prune, we find 10 offerings. The refreshing Classic beats other versions, such as the Caesar, which is made with gin and a pickled egg. Mezcal and chipotle peppers give the Bloody Maria at Pulino’s Bar and Pizzeria a delicious smoky tang with a powerful kick that was great THE MARY TERRANEAN BLOODY MARIA (King Cole Bar, The St. Regis, New York; (Pulino’s Bar and Pizzeria) with pizza. created at The St. Regis Grand, Rome) 1½ oz. Sombra Mezcal Neil Da Costa, a flavor chemist at 1¼ oz. Fris vodka 1 oz. Pulino’s Maria puree International Flavors & Fragrances 6 oz. St. Regis Bloody Mary mix ½ oz. freshly squeezed lime juice 1 teaspoon extra virgin olive oil Ice Inc., who has studied Bloody Mary Dash of fresh chopped oregano and basil Tomato juice ingredients with gas and liquid chro- Fresh basil leaves Pour mezcal, puree and lime juice into a glass. Fill a large wine glass with ice cubes, add all matography, says keeping the drink Add ice, fill with tomato juice and stir. ingredients, stir and garnish with basil leaves. ice-cold slows down the chemical re- ST. REGIS BLOODY MARY MIX PUlino’S MARIA puREE actions that degrade the taste within 32 oz. Sacramento tomato juice Two 7 oz. cans La Morena chipotle peppers 30 minutes. The bottom line: Drink 2 oz. freshly squeezed lemon juice Half 5 oz. bottle Tabasco sauce 2 oz. freshly squeezed lime juice 5 oz. agave syrup, made with 50 percent water up fast. 4 teaspoons sriracha chili sauce 5 oz. freshly squeezed lemon juice We tasted a total of 26 variations at 2 tablespoons horseradish ¼ cup black peppercorns four bars. Two of the best recipes are 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce ¼ cup kosher salt 1 teaspoon toasted celery seed, ground ¼ cup celery salt given at left. 1 teaspoon toasted black pepper, ground 1/3 cup oregano 2 teaspoons sea salt Blend all ingredients in a food processor for 2 teaspoons Aleppo pepper 30 seconds. ELIN McCOY IS THE DRINKS COLUMNIST FOR Mix together in a blender. BLOOMBERG MARKETS. [email protected] 128 BLOOMBERG MARKETS April 2012.