E.Monaco Article Andouillette
Emily Monaco, au sujet andouillette et AAAAA Andouillette, a tripe sausage, represents just two percent of French charcuterie production, but one volunteer-based group is committed to preserving its cultural legacy. By Emily Monaco June 11, 2021 CREDIT: COURTESY OF JACQUES-LOUIS DELPAL The Telegraph writes that it "looks, smells, and tastes as if it should be in a lavatory," while CNN reports it has "an easily identifiable aroma of decay." They're talking about andouillette, a tripe sausage hailing from France's Champagne region that's as divisive as it is beloved-by those who can stomach it. (Pun very much intended.) Andouillette boasts several regional variants, but its most well-known form is associated with the city of Troyes: pork tripe is soaked, scalded, sliced, and seasoned with aromatics like onions, nutmeg, and even Champagne. It is then threaded by hand ("à la ficelle") into its casing and simmered for several hours before being sold. It's a style that, according to legend, is so delicious it distracted the royal army from their mission to reclaim Troyes during the Wars of Religion, giving the Catholic League the opportunity to counter-attack. "On that day, andouillettes de Troyes made history," says Laurent Jolivet, president and founder of POPY, a group that controls much of the market share of artisanal andouillette production. Today, andouillette represents just two percent of French charcuterie production, and as the French slowly fall out of love with their ancestral cured meats, andouillette bears the brunt of the burden. The stinky specialty's sales fell 7.8 percent in 2017 after three consecutive downturns, as compared to just 2.6 percent for regular sausage, reports French news agency BFM.
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