Introduction

live. peoplehow authentic intoinsightmost the gives andcultureanother about ever I am, and the best examples of it. Food typifies everything that is different day food alongside ‘the great works of mankind’ in making a culture. I have I culture. a making mankind’in of works great ‘the alongside food day everyday life. of taste a us gives literally quite food because – tours walks, museums, and portant, if not more so, than the other things we did there – visits to galleries im- as is place certain a in ate we What question. in culture the to gateway a also are times and spaces other in experience we that techniques cooking memory.our shapes and time in back technicolour. in remember I dishes those But time. of passing the with of the things I saw in each of those places have a acquired hazy, sepia quality Mymemories shingle. Whitstable on shells their from sucked and shucked hot piping Madrid; in Sunday mind your of forefront the in be when about you past. travels reminisce will meals me, like anything you’re If gardens alike, frommy cupoftea.’ MarcelProust,Swann’s Wayand . town being, into sprang solidity, and shape taking surroundings, its and Combray of whole nected with the taste of the tea and the cake, but that it infinitely transcended those savours . . . the the quote in full: ‘Whence could it have come to me, this all-powerful joy? I sensed that it was con- vindicates food, makes it a real ‘thing’ recognised in literature, not just a sentimental fancy. somehow it because perhaps – past the invoke to taste of power the realises Marcel young which in point the – moment Proustian the referencing love * Writers When When T Whenever I go abroad my focus is on finding the food most typical of wher- A T he late, great h s Proust noted on eating a eating on noted Proust s E ink back to your last trip. Which are the memories that stand out? out? stand that memories the are Which trip. last your to back ink v eryone has to eat, and food is a common language. w It It

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eat, we travel.

is the

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A just merican novelist and home cook Laurie Colwin put every- •

INTRODUCTION

things, the L

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1 • INTRODUCTION 2 • INTRODUCTION N the nowstandard baguetteprobablydatesfromtheearly twentieth century. pack space. In fact, long thin loaves have been a feature of French cuisine for hundreds of years, but * junk food and twee baked goods. baked twee and gourmet food junk selling hawkers street-food to or décor, distressed of backdrop a crowds flock to no-reservations restaurants that serve sharing plates against to London from cities cosmopolitan In food. meat, raw which we ate with white of flavour strong the complement as mask much so didn’t mix) spice 169) and lamb raw eating flat Shoreditch her at was I later months conversation. the A cook Lebanese met I When pathological. almost become had that aversion an child, a was I since lamb roasting of scent cloying fatty, the loathed I’ve But vegetarian. (fish-eating) me. troubled still lamb a organs, and cuts of sorts all try being to happy was I while of years twelve after againa ago meat eating years started few too. I food itself, the on lens different a train we grow tounderstand–mouthfulbywhatitisabout. culture, another of plate the from eat we When breathe. and live they as populations of view grassroots a provides food tours, bus and guidebooks ing people’ she once said to me – such a simple statement, but so true. Unlike Bowles and Jack Kerouac, also relates to Colwin’s words. ‘Food is a way of see- to Paris from flitted who 1960s the of beatnik a Wolfert, Paula expert food Moroccan lilies. Monet’s than culture French history in steeped is It more). and charcuterie to cheese (from flavours Gallic quintessential of combinations to agree. h mmn. od aiet te zeitgeist. the manifests Food moment. the in society of tastes the expressing culture, popular in music and literature can transform ourperceptionofthem. this and cuisines, other in guises different on take Ingredients revelation. a ghormeh sabzi (lamb stew with herbs and kidney beans, see page 176) was also day, but it turns out I love raw lamb prepared in a Levantine kitchen. Persian the smell of which wafted around my grandparents’ kitchen on many a Sun- lamb. for taste a world’swithout the food about book a couldn’twrite Oe lot etil aorpa acut a i ta te aute a dvlpd uig the during developed was baguette the that it has account apocryphal certainly almost One apoleonic Wars and was designed to fit down soldiers’ trousers in order to economise on back- on economise to order in trousers soldiers’ down fit to designed was and Wars apoleonic nissa E In recent years food in Britain has assumed a status analogous to film, to analogous status a assumed has Britain in food years recent In ating H devouring it. A elou from different cultures is not just a way of seeing people: it can it people: seeing of way a just not is cultures different from baguette, the beloved French bread stick, is the canvas for infinite for the first time, I casually slipped my antipathy for lamb into H er H jaw dropped. She told me this was impossible, that I that impossible, was this me told She dropped. jaw er delicately balanced home-made tabbouleh. I might not like British roast lamb, T * oday n cn ruby el o mr about more you tell arguably can and ’s most famous food professionals – professionals food famous most ’s T N ee r nw lbl rns in trends global now are here T ew angier York, with the likes of Paul of likes the with T okyo sabe’ bharat (seven (see page (see kibbeh to Melbourne, to A few mans, have inhabited the island and the rich Mediterranean produce available there. governance.of moment but,bydefinition, hybrid like– that of Sicily, where the Greeks, Romans, people’s of movementlandscape,theonto placecreating the cuisinesunique to arethat influence the solder immigration and imperialism Invasions, do indifferent partsofthe world? and signature dishes from each? In short, what and why do people eat as they sines from one another? What are the principle tastes, techniques of cooking cui- these distinguishes What Iran? or Lebanon say, of, food the define you cuisine? regional or national a makes actually what pinpoint they can but alternatives, pasteurised over milk raw champion or restaurants in Chang David who know ‘foodies’may claimed Self-pro- cuisines. ‘pedigree’ about knowledge our in gaps are there endar), nary trends (which seem to change as frequently as the biannual fashion cal- your veryownkitchen. from all – delicacies their sample and places these of any visit to passport them, for whichsociety’s food lovershaveaseriousappetite. to unique are that dishes make to influences cultural and culinary ferent and Ottolenghi Yotam chef from the multi-Michelin-starred René Redzepi to neo-Middle of them to life. Remember: when we eat, we travel. we eat, we when Remember: life. to them of each from dishes bring to you enable and features essential their demystify culture. celebrity terly takes atheme like ‘Ramen’, ‘ lin stars to his name and is also the co-editor of But thisisanoversimplification,takingonlygeography intoconsideration. grows. and lives produce local where climate and terrain the reflects place given a in eat we what that fact the to attention drawing act’, agricultural * S a US

T he Korean- T A n at a usn i te dbe oehl o bt gorpy n history. and geography both of lovechild edible the is cuisine a fact, In aking midst this enthusiasm for food and the growing fascination with culi- with fascination growing the and food for enthusiasm this midst c A a r d abs, Spanish, French and, most recently, Italians have all had their had all recently,haveItalians most and, French Spanish, abs, e you on a journey around thirty-nine world cuisines, my aim is to is aim my cuisines, world thirty-nine around journey a on you A m merican chef and owner of the Momofuku restaurant group. Chang has two Miche- ic - c T um hey prize creativity in the kitchen, drawing on many dif- many on drawing kitchen, the in creativity prize hey IS W • - f a T h r A o m merican Food’ and‘Before and day, Sicilian dishes express both the peoples that peoples the bothexpress dishesSicilian day, a T e t V cook V r

edl Bry ne ad ht etn i an is ‘eating that said once Berry Wendell a Lucky Peach. N

c igella Lawson – are another facet to facet another are – Lawson igella u isi * E is, proudly order offal dishes offal order proudly is, ach n e A issue of the zeitgeisty food quar- fter the ? T reat this book as your as book this reat • A polcalypse’. E astern H pastry ow N o do r-

3 • INTRODUCTION 4 • INTRODUCTION particular chefin thepresentday. geogr visit on our journey. I’ve also given you a few really typical recipes from each we cuisine each for list shopping essential your Lists, Larder the in cuisine each of features key highlighted I’ve served. and cooked are things how as well as – favoured is all) at fat no (or butter or oil whether used, are spices which – ingredients and flavours covers It world’scuisines. the key of some for anyone with a fledgling curiosity about the building blocks that make up be no mean feat. * magic. individual and chemistry unique a book this in explore I cuisine each gives – history and geography – people and terrain between interplay the 144–5, traditions. cooking inherited various its fusing to approach distinctive its and State Golden the to back traced be can years at food. Much of the food revolution that has taken place in the UK in recent look we way the changed has it that believe I because but place, the to ment cause I have what might fairly be described as an overtly sentimental attach- fascinating lessoninhowacuisinedevelops. a proves formed were they which in history recent more the of knowledge the of those – others than younger much produce. its and geography physical with fused being national and regional character are the result of different human traditions pound. the in hound average your as spices they have in common: cumin, turmeric, cinnamon and infinite infinite and cinnamon others. turmeric, and these cumin, of blends common: in have they spices specific the significantly, most and, stewing, cooking, clay-pot similarities: fundamental many despite are, foods Moroccan and Indian different how Consider results. different wildly produce but another, one as components of somethingwhollynew–derivative yetauthentic. LIS a Es

T here is, however, an important difference between this – the gradual fusion of fusion the gradual – this between difference important an however, is, here t For example, we’re going to travel to California (see page 287) not only be- only not 287) page (see California to travel to Forwe’regoing example, hybridas mongrels, all are they ‘pedigree’; is cuisine no that learnt have I I like to think of cuisines as stews – they often have the same or similar similar or same the have often they – stews as cuisines of think to like I py n hsoy o om ciie ad efcncos fso fo’ rae b a by created food’ ‘fusion self-conscious and – cuisine a form to history and aphy b h i n g W THIS H •

an exha an T his book is intended to be an entry point only, a go-to guide o u s A t s you’ll see on the Spice Route map on pages pages on map Route Spice the on see you’ll i v e e D b NA o E ven of thirty-nine world cuisines would ok works ok N ew those with the most distinctive most the with those World, for example – but our but – World,example for T hey are the building blocks building the are hey * oe usns are cuisines Some

• on the Kitchen the on won’tLists Larder put the I’ve time, ingredients the the of include most that, a number ofdifferent culinarycanons withouttoo much difficulty. from tasty something up whip to me enable included have I things the ence experi- doesn’t inmy mine but that eat, likefind to you may how you reflect inclined. so you’re if less or more minutes of couple a for omelette the fry or steak the sear tastes, that’syour to if appealscoriander what fresh the avoid or salt more in Put right. feels what do disaster.Myto be would advice us are shackled by the idea that a recipe is a set of rules, which is a recipe for of many too but life, to dish a bring to us helping in useful enormously be voyage. culinary your on embarking before question in chapter the dried limes in Iran or China, of province Sichuan the from peppers Sichuan as such – places tain I’ve been, the people I have spoken to, and what I like to eat. I’ve chosen just chosen I’ve eat. to like I what and to, spoken where have I people the been, reflects I’ve It experiences. and interests culinary own my showcasing kitchen. own my in without be to never prefer I ingredients and equipment the are flavours without following authentic arecipetotheletter. canembody you that believe firmly I and pot, tagine a London’seast to access has one of mine let that put you off. Just try substituting the closest possible thing. don’t equipment, of piece a don’t have or ingredient certain a can’tfind but creative licence. one you aretackling. cuisine which matter no kitchen, well-stocked every in found be to staples likes of extra virgin olive oil and garlic don’t feature on Larder Lists: they are Israel. and Levant the in a certain place – chickpeas in the Mediterranean, for example, or tahini paste tion. to the Kitchen addition (in stock in have to want might you things of kinds the of dication page 339for suggested booksonindividualcuisines,byexperts. on section Reading Further the to turn more, know to keen you’re If place. T You’ll find a list of my Kitchen my of list a find You’ll recipes these of one make to want really you if logic, same the Following I’ve always taken a pretty relaxed approach to following recipes. T hough in part a reference book, reference a part in hough he Larder Lists are not intended to be definitive catalogues, more an in- an more catalogues, definitive be to intended not are Lists Larder he knows your palate and cooking equipment like you do, so exercise some exercise likedo,so equipment you cooking and knowspalate your T hey include ingredients that struck me as unique or localised to cer- to localised or unique as me struck that ingredients include hey A list like this will obviously differ from one person to another and another to person one from differ obviously will this like list E E ssentials – see below) when you cook from a particular tradi- ssentials list unless I want to stress the prevalence of one in one of prevalence the stress wantto I unless list ssentials pimentón in Spain – and, I hope, will inspire you to read N o matter how important they are to a cuisine, the cuisine, a to are they important how matter E ssentials on the following page – these – page following the on ssentials is also deeply personal, deeply also is Atlas Edible The T urkish shops, for example, or owns or forexample, shops, N T ot A hey can ssume every- N o

5 • INTRODUCTION 6 • INTRODUCTION Lev writing thisbook.) while fed well been have (I cooking. and knowledge time, their with erous sine in question. equal measure. In each chapter, you’ll encounter an authority about the cui- in tips practical and inspiration taken I’ve whom from writers, and experts food chefs, talented incredibly some meet to opportunity the journal- me affords food ist a as job My from. cook to as read be to book a much as – top grouping theirvarious culinaryenclavestogether. T up over the course of this book). For three influenced sohas many of the– major cuisines Iranwe know andas love: Indian, today known country the of traditions cooking ancient the – cuisine Persian which to extent the was revelation particular (One habits. included those I consider particularly formative in our contemporary eating I’ve but gaps, course of are there so cuisines world countless of thirty-nine come. to travels about enthuse or visited, already places about reminisce kitchen, its help, you feel inspired to set off on some international journeys from your US the and India China, Italy), and e see t m to salse ad o rgoal nacd o justify to nuanced regionally too and established too me to seemed hey I hope you enjoy reading and cooking from I want this book to be as comfortable by your bedside as it is by your stove- Bon voyageandbonappétit! antine, Mediterranean. You’ll see that Persian influences keep cropping keep influences Persian that see You’llMediterranean. antine, T hey are too numerous to name here, but all have been gen- A , I have included more than one region. one than more included have I , E uropean countries (France, Spain The Edible Atlas and that, with T urkish, but if you’re anything like me . . . . . me like anything you’re if but I covered. have the cuisines recipes I’ve featured in this book, and indeed for you to from freestyle any of a have you cook. as you up wash if to willing particularly is who view, which minion my partner/flat-mate/parent/other kettles), in soup essential even entirely (spatulas, always things aren’t of two having suggests instances she many in although recommendations, Colwin’s of most echo I’d book.) this acquire to need you then cutting, little a sometimes and wry, dry writing food your like you if and it, cooking like you as much as food about son’s list. my to on it makes therefore and on, so and soups sauces, dips, make to want you if kit of piece useful a definitely is example, up. washing tedious of lot a to leads or blade tronic elec- an with fingers my endangers that anything using avoid I personally home working a of accoutrements kitchen. rudimentary most the only require should and world the of food home-cooked is this essential. Remember, pages. these as in them featured recipes of the of any most for class specialist too wouldn’t anything need won’t I You but – place their have which that assume you have a mandolin, a Kitchenaid, even a a even Kitchenaid, a mandolin, a have you assume that When I I When So So here is a short list of what I to consider be to necessary make any of the ‘ is equipment kitchen essential of list favourite My and things, confuses apparatus cooking much too that opinion the of I’m Batterie Batterie de Cuisine s a y

‘essentials’, I really mean it. I’ve read plenty of cookbooks cookbooks of plenty read I’ve it. mean really I ‘essentials’, e KITC ’ ’ in Laurie Colwin’s IP Eq • H T h e corkscrew and radio are obviously optional, optional, and are radio obviously e corkscrew N u E S m S e Home Home Cooking E n N t

TIALS • T h at said, a blender, for for blender, a said, at . . (If you like reading T h Low- e os vide sous T e h Per- ch , all of of all ,

7 • INTRODUCTION 8 • INTRODUCTION are involved,ofcourse).Investinasolid,heavywoodenboard ifpossible. knives when dangerous also is (which work you while around sliding board the than sfl o batn si-r igeins ucl ad fetvl s ta te cook they that so effectively without losingtheircrunchandgoodness. and quickly ingredients stir-fry blasting for useful WOK n GE LA WOO R PEE FI RO PEST FOO S q L GOO and B C street. high the on buy to cheaprelatively are They boiling).regular to (comparedtrients nu- of full and (veg) crunchier (meat), tender kept are ingredientsperiod, shorter a for cooked are they because and, water less require generally cookers Pressure time.the fraction ofsofteningredients a to injust makingstews,or ofhabit theinto ba CA EP D P S PRESSURE I boughtmyfavouriteforlessthanatennerinthesupermarket. is alwayshandy. learned thatthere’snothinglikegrindingyourownspicesfor aNeanderthalthrill. It doeshelpheretohavetwohand. kind). supermarket affordable the of (again, one medium-sized light, a and oven TUR A O I O E N G U R N S L E

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I’ve WHISK K FI C CL I R T I T C GE, LA URI KIT M za’atar a PRESE U SP drop But transfer to a pretty ceramic bowl, drizzle on some good olive oil and a dusting of it. blended just you’ve when that) (funny, beige pretty look can example, for mus, Hum- it. decant you before look might it underwhelming how matter no beautiful, look food making of way easy really a is this find I platters. or bowls big from is ing, useful ifyouwanttomakestuffuseorservelater,andforleftovers. A A IT A O E A R R I N K A RKS C C N T ofmixturefromabowl. E G S H H G (seepage188)andit’lllooklovely.

T E T N E E L

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9 • INTRODUCTION 10 • INTRODUCTION vinegar coriander, basil,mint,thyme limes ESH F R Cup EE F E • I F il extract nilla oil cous sure to sunlight and regular watering. watering. regular and sunlight to sure easy or sauces pasta meatballs, for pork or beef – freezer the in meat kind minced of some keep to want also might You soups. or sauces pasta like things some keeping recommend I me, than ilk carnivorous more a of are you If advance. in it planned have I unless person other one or myself for only cooking when meat use rarely I nut milktopastasauceorLevantine dip. ing, international and authentic at the drop of a hat, from a curry with coco- interest- something up whip to able being guarantees hand to these having that find I like. you if vehicles, edible my – me takes fancy the whenever UK can assume that all herbs specified in the recipes are fresh unless it says says it unless otherwise. fresh are recipes the in specified herbs all that assume can fill itand tobasilwith parsley thyme, mint, start. and box window a buy Just that. at dish, a transform can that ingredients and – ingredients own your producing of way maintenance low rewarding, a is own your growing this, than more even But quickly. very bad turn ets pack- plastic in those herbs and in supermarkets ready-picked them buying the for world. and you, for better being mention to not – better much so tastes It a list of all the ingredients I try to keep in stock so I can depart the depart can I so stock in keep to try I ingredients the all of list a S S T

r r r h

tahini paste A I’d recommend growing your own herbs. It’s much more ecological than than ecological more It’smuch herbs. own your growing recommend I’d i • d

E b

ever, this is a personal list based on the food I like to eat. For example, example, For eat. to like I food the on based list personal a is this ever, • g asmc iea – gi, od ult: hy a ral vary really can they quality: good again, – vinegar balsamic z i • a

e st-

plain flour

• aubergine • a

• soy sauce soy r onions (white or red)

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peas •

ak chocolate dark

• preserved lemons

re psa n noodles and pasta dried

• • •

granulated sugar • courgette breadcrumbs fish sauce fish A RE In •

little plea: try to use organic meat where possible. possible. where meat organic use to try plea: little

• •

eggs

chorizo good loafofbread

•

• g

•

od ult eta ign lv oil olive virgin extra quality good

• spring onions

spinach

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parmesan cheese

•

re cous- dried

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va-

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•

tinned coconut milk coconut tinned

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• honey

re oag lentils orange dried

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11 • INTRODUCTION uct pepper the roads, running like veins through the body of France: Di- France: of body the through veins like running prod- roads, food the local pepper a uct with names their shared have French. that are villages and ingredients towns celebrated world’s the of many how plated their as much as ingredients great results. celebrates that one is ture bles in a sauce of bay leaves, juniper and Pinot Pinot and juniper leaves, bay of sauce a in bles imagination withacake –seepage1. tionally recognised cluetoarestaurant’s credentials. interna- most and highest the now system, grading star the launched they 1926 In ommendations. to beef cuts and vegetables, dubbed ‘soul food for socialists’ by by socialists’ for food ‘soul or Bourdain); dubbed vegetables, and vibrant cuts a beef in white soft, dunked raw crusty, to perhaps distinguished wine and bread, most paté rustic the From world. of the in some materials with consumption, and duction matters. † * Marcel Proust, arguably France’s greatest writer, is after all, inextricably associated in the popular

T restaurants in 1900 in an attempt to encourage enthusiasm for motoring out to eat at their rec- their at eat to out motoring for enthusiasm encourage to attempt an in 1900 in restaurants he Michelin brothers, founders of the Michelin tyre company, produced the first Michelin Guide Look at a good road map of France and it will quickly dawn on you just just you on dawn quickly will it and France of map road good a at Look appreciation, for The T h

the

Fec tk get rd i ter od t vr lvl f pro- of level every at food their in pride great take French e French • A

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A uguste For a long time French food enjoyed a golden age of international venera- A writer and chef French was It rguably, the emergence of Modernist cuisine – think the developments the think – cuisine Modernist of emergence the rguably, T og clnr ted cm ad o Fec ciie ean the remains cuisine French go, and come trends culinary hough E scoffier (1846-1935) is the French chef credited as possibly the most important figure in figure important most the possibly as credited chef French the is (1846-1935) scoffier get it. I think it’s fair to say that on average they have a have it’sI it. supe- they think on to average that say fair A drià’s maverick creations at the now closed now the at creations drià’smaverick E published in 1906, is his best-known work – work best-known his is 1906, in published Culinaire, Guide Le l Bulli and noma respectively) – wouldn’t have wouldn’t – respectively) noma and Bulli l A uguste A n d so on. on. so d E E scoffier’s term), following a surge scoffier’s following term), scoffier * who said, ‘If it had been had it ‘If said, who E l Bulli in Bulli l ih odru fut vgtbe ad ie fs; Rhône- fish; river and vegetables fruit, blooms wonderful which with areas, wine-producing cooler France’s of one Valley, Loire south the of those to similar of ways many in are produce and landscape the sunshine. sunshine. the of taste that dishes in collide Mediterranean French the of flavours where Provence, and Lyon; of capital food the to home and charcuterie French of ferings reflecting their climate and cultural mix. mix. cultural and climate their reflecting ferings again is,indeed,anart. presentation. ful beauti- and ingredients well-sourced correct, the having is as – timings and culture. food French of heart the at sit being unexciting. But for me, this misses the point. Innovation doesn’t really

hv cvrd ut or f h Fec rgos ec wt clnr of- culinary with each regions, French the of four just covered have I E n gland, where orchards bloom and cream-coloured cattle graze; the the graze; cattle cream-coloured and bloom orchards where gland, T he ability of the French to repeat this formula time and time formula this repeat to French the of ability he T echnique is key – precise quantities precise – key is N o rmandy, where the the where rmandy, A l pes, the centre centre the pes, 21 • france 22 • europe ural state.ural simply because ingredients are often left to speak for themselves, in their France,nat- in regions other‘cuisine’ than a of less have to said be could mandy meal,andputsthespotlight theskillonproducersof rather thanchefs. satisfying a ofcomposition elemental the food, good ofsimplicity damental France,exemplarybread.in rywhere eve- as and, cider delicious most cheese, famous most butter, world’sfinest T the Pays d’ effort.much toowithout foodFrenchauthentic sample to ney,youallowing wash up onto the brooding grey beaches beloved of the Impressionists. for the markings around their eyes) graze, and where razor clams and whelks areas of France, so tached to recreating an authentic food. Bienvenue . is life and life, is Food France. entered have You central. absolutely is food about a blogger’s challenge to cook all the recipes from Cooking. book seminal her of 1961 in publication the via US the to food French * Jla hl ws an was Child Julia h is is the cuisine of which the best picnics are made: home to some of the of some to home made: are picnics best the which of cuisine the is is T h ere’s not a huge amount of technique, or even necessarily cooking, at- cooking,necessarily even or technique, of amount huge a ere’snot In 2009, Meryl Streep played the eccentric and difficult Child in the movie the in Child difficult and eccentric the played Streep Meryl 2009, In A T u h ge, where the vaches des lunettes e elementsof e It

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me. might be just be might N Julie and Julia, and Julie ormandy N o r- , are served simply, with mashed potatoes and fennel, for example, with a with example, for fennel, and potatoes mashed widely. with eaten simply, and served are common also are skate and monkfish sole, bass, dy, beloved make the to used is pastry puff man-inspired Brie. countryside. the in refuge ing N Marie one by Revolution French the during developed was embert Cam- cider. dry local with brilliantly pairing pungency, and rinds chunky their formemorable are and – ‘moos’) of soundtrack a and museum church, l’Liv Pont – hometowns their after named usually are Cheeses crème. patchwork of greens across greens of patchwork reaches anapogeeofdeliciousness. purportedly shippedtothetrencheseach week duringtheGreat War. cillium to preserve it, enabled the cheese to travel. in cheese popular peni- of spray a most with along which, boxes, wooden round its in France,iconic the became fast It history. is rest the and cheese, bright yellow crispy crispy yellow bright served and daily fresh caught ubiquitous, are (mussels) formybelow mum’srecipe the (see tarts fruit-based rangeof a in tures fea- crust sweet pear; or apple caramelised of filling a hug turnovers pastry square mould),which hasanalmostcrunchy goldenrind. L’ Pont or Camembert crowd-pleasing than taste acquired is more a is common Livarot top. the on branding collectible) (andin characterful with box wooden round their have types all what but – maturity varying of cheeses three taste to chance the is * in practically every upon fall you’ll which producers, Calvados and cider local little the of most try could you aperitif sweeter lighter, a cookery, as in flambéed celebrated. is region the which for brandy apple the – itself Calvados also and Calvados, of town the in made ciders brut oak-aged mandy two camps – those for eating and those for cider or Calvados production. Cmmet ais asvl – o o h Cmmet uem n icue i pie f entry of price in included and museum Camembert the to go – massively varies Camembert orman Orchards boasting crops of apples ripening on gnarled old trees create a create trees old gnarled on ripening apples of crops boasting Orchards Great butter naturally paves the way for consummate pastry. In T A arot and, of course, Camembert (a surprisingly tiny village with only a only with village tiny surprisingly (a Camembert course, of and, arot h Fac’ diy capital, dairy France’s s T ird in in ird he story goes that he shared with cider is dry – or it can be, if dry is your thing. I love the smokiness of smokiness the love I thing. your is dry if be, can it or – dry is cider farmer and local cheese maker who sheltered one of the priests tak- N o apple tart) and brioche, which can be found all over France, over all found be can which brioche, and tart) apple rmandy’s triptych of great produce is its seafood. seafood. its is produce great of triptych rmandy’s N orman village. frites tarte aux pommes, or sipped as a digestif. If you prefer . . T N u N rbot is the region’s most prized fish, but sea sea but fish, prized most region’s the is rbot ormandy ormandy T he priest in question happened to be from be to happened question in priest he H . – an apple liquor made by made liquor apple an – pommeau s qie ieal – literally quite – is A arel the secret to making brie-style pples can be loosely divided into divided loosely be can pples and tatin tarte E vêque *

H alf a million boxes were wih oe i a distinctive a in comes (which T his is widely used in used widely is his à la marinière la à , in which in douillons, a rm d la de crème la N H E orman Moules vêque, arel, a arel, with with T N N h or- or- ey ey - 23 • NORND MA Y 24 • europe advance. but, over the version bloody C parsley. and lemon with seasoning then oil, in it frying deep or butter brown in it frying before flour in l R LA I * ral state. For me, local oysters epitomise the richness of of richness the epitomise oysters local me, For state. ral purest form. form. purest meunière them down with a glass of Loire Valley Muscadet, and feel your soul and and Child’s. Julia like soul just – up open your spirit feel and Muscadet, Valley Loire of glass a with down them flavour. Wash salty the disguise, not but enhance, to juice lemon of squeeze the surprising not It’s fish (turbot,sole,monkfish,skate)•brutciderhome-madepastry • whelks) winkles, clams, mussels, (oysters, shellfish • Livarot) l’Evêque, Pont bert,

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• • y •

Leave to marinate at room temperature for up to eight hours (if you can mari- can you (if hours eight to up for temperature room at marinate to Leave Remove the lid from the Camembert box, unwrap the cheese and discard the discard and cheese the unwrap box, Camembert the from lid the Remove Preheat the oven to 180°C/160°C fan/gas 4 and bake for 10–20 minutes. I like mum

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25 • NORND MA Y 26 • europe 1 8 the heatto180°C/160°Cfan/gas4andbakeforanother15-20minutes. 5 tom ofthetinandupontosides.Chillonceagainfor10–20minutes. bot- the into down press then and tin tart loose-bottomed 23cm–25cm a into Lift Allow tocoolinthetinfor5–10minutesbeforeturningout. glaze. the with over all brush and oven the from tart the Remove runny. until gently 2 bles finebreadcrumbs. resem- mixture the until fingertips, your using flour the into butter of cubes the rub 3 clingfilm andrefrigerateforatleast30minutes. with Cover ball. a into together gather and dough smooth a make to Combine salt. 7 range theapplesinanoverlappingspiralpattern,startingfromoutsidefirst. 6 while itheatsup. 4 flour intothegroundalmondsandthenaddtobattermixture. add the egg and egg yolk separately. Mix in the Calvados. In a separate bowl, stir the

• • • • • • • •

To make the frangipane, cream the butter and sugar together in a bowl and then In the centre of the mixture make a well and add the egg yolk, water, vanilla and Preheat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/gas 6. Place a baking sheet in the oven the in sheet baking a Place 6. fan/gas 200°C/180°C to oven the Preheat To make the pastry, sift the flour into a mixing bowl and stir in the sugar. Lightly sugar. the in stir and bowl mixing a into flour the sift pastry, the make To Roll the pastry out onto a floured surface into a 25cm circle about 3mm thick. 3mm about circle 25cm a into surface floured a onto out pastry the Roll Place the tart onto the heated baking sheet and bake for 15 minutes. Reduce minutes. 15 for bake and sheet baking heated the onto tart the Place Spoon the frangipane into the chilled pastry base and distribute it evenly. Ar- evenly. it distribute and base pastry chilled the into frangipane the Spoon To make the glaze, combine the apricot jam with a little water and then heat then and water little a with jam apricot the combine glaze, the make To 2 tbspplainflour 110g groundalmonds 1 tbspCalvados too fussy. dishes like Coq au Vin and Croque Monsieur – simple, elegant dishes which impress without being † * chapter, is an obvious example. obvious an is chapter, The ArtofFrench Cooking, T nearby. produced wine contain eaten are fish and meat which with sauces the of many and another, one for designed yang, and yin almost are wine I – food great by wasn’t surprisedtofind culinaryprowess thatequalleditsviticulture. matched be surely would wine good such that basis the on – but went, I before Loire the in scene food the about much know didn’t I grape. Franc Cabernet difficult notoriously the mastering for Vouvrayand scape and stud the banks of the Loire. boeuf endaubeinBurgundyandProvencerespectively. Cooking with wine is common across France, of course, with the likes of likes the with course, of France, across common is wine with Cooking swimming Published in 1965, in Published he emblematic making sniping epc fr oa wn i ky o okn i te or kthn Fo and Food kitchen. Loire the in cooking to key is wine local for Respect A bbeys, They

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27 • LOIREVLLE A Y 28 • europe the wine: white dry local a to accompaniment us to make regular stops to taste local wines, charcuterie and pastries. to another. ciality and the attributes of local wines change dramatically from one village take on an ultra-local character here as a result; each city has its own food spe- ied, mineral-rich soils as well as different microclimates. Both food and wine wardsthe (seepage 33) and travelling alongside Burgundy before taking a sharp left to- f er n wl ba, hc ces ol peae ih id mushrooms wild with prepare would chefs which boar, wild and deer of to forests the from returning huntsmen immaculate the of mazes the in ship knights on colourfully decorated steeds, damsels with plaited hair and court- in France itisonethattheyneverlost. but returned, have we which to tradition a be might animal whole the cream). in cooked been has that cabbage (with separately head the eating and bread more over broth the serving before garlic and peppercorns bread, stale kale, with hours three under just for head pig’s salted a boil to us instructs She Loire. the of south just Vendée, La in L’Oie from Meunier Madame one by Francaises inces book 1929 the in appears which for recipe a soup, Fergus cuisine British of bastion and chef of terms in this of think might we UK the In meat. of offcuts and offal of use the pioned A from it is common practice. common is it isn’tconcept, animal a whole the eating France in eating’,but tail to ‘nose of to attention like ranks of smiling soldiers. With more sun than sun more With soldiers. smiling of ranks like attention to and ripe plums dangle are commonplace, as are fields of sunflowers standing apples red fairytale which from trees Fruit twee. of side right the on erring man-made encapsulates something effortless about rural France: quaintness rooms and asparagus, pumpkins and mush- leeks, and carrots beans, white and green onions, of stench glorious a boastingallotments of patchworks pastWe cycleddrink. than ratherfood for farmed and here,sweeter are pears and apples like fruits north,further s we will see once we get to the Rhône- T T T T h ’ are the region’s signature meat dishes and make a mean a make and region’sdishes the meat are signature ‘rilles’ three he e or fl t m lk a adcp o soyok ad artls with fairytales, and storybooks of landscape a like me to felt Loire he ours e Loireeriver extensive,is stretching fromitssource the Rhône- in T our T his is the kind of food still eaten in Loire villages. In Britain, using Britain, In villages. Loire in eaten still food of kind the is his A aine; and aine; n Suu areas; Saumur and T t w lanticOcean. o-wheeled travel was the ideal way to experience this, enabling (‘Beautiful Recipes from the French Provinces’), contributed Provinces’), French the from Recipes (‘Beautiful , slow-roasted chunks of belly pork from pork belly of chunks slow-roasted rillauds, T ypical T h e LoireValleye surroundedregionisvar-very by of the Loire and western France is pig’shead is France western and Loire the of cbs f el pr peevd n fat, in preserved pork belly of cubes rillons, primeurs gardens. I imagine medieval imagine I gardens. chateaux A lpes, French cuisine has long cham- ices ern spoils bearing kitchens chateaux , a pork-based paste from paste pork-based a rillettes, (early season baby vegetables). Les Belles Recettes des Prov- Recettesdes Belles Les H enderson N ’s concept ’s o rmandy A A njou. l pes tabris ln so wnos lnsd lcl aorts like favourites local alongside windows shop line strawberries, with filled tarts and up), grew I where Streatham, in run baguette unlikely her on Saturday every me buy would like staples which is not unlike a unlike not is which and the Cher. Meanwhile, T ing thecityof vinegar and Muscadet, a simple dry white wine native to the zone surround- Valley,Loire the of sauce classic a shallots, with butter reducing by prepared wine, cognac and shallots – or more simply served with a like stews or soups dark in eel. and salmon trout, pike, as such fish freshwater food: region todayarepartofalongtradition. originated at the at originated Joanne inspire and use good to static experiencewithachilledSt ec- particularly a had I but beautifully, these accompany would wines local Most well-known. also are rivers) Indre and Cher the between region Berry chou du Poitou, Crottin de Chavignol and Pouligny-Saint-Pierre (all from the made with raw goats’ milk, Valençay is perhaps the most famous, but Chabi- produced to complement the region’s wine. Pyramid-shaped, ash-dusted and sauces and the stenchofonions.Justrightsidetwee, indeed. the side, breeze in its your face, booze on your on breath, surrounded by wild flowers propped . . . and bike your riverside: yourself imagine and Valley, a up whip to wherewithal ner for eitheroneofthese–ifyou’re indulgingindessert. products –F ‡ † * or leux orange.candied and apricots cherries, almonds, nougatwith tively encouraged bywinemakers toproducesweeter wineslike Sauternes.

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• • • • •

Bake thefishinovenfor20–25minutesuntilitjuststartstoflake. Place the salmon, shallots and parsley onto plates. Spoon the beurre blanc over blanc beurre the Spoon plates. onto parsley and shallots salmon, the Place Preheat the oven to 180°C/160°C fan/gas 4. Grease a shallow 22cm spring- 22cm shallow a Grease 4. fan/gas 180°C/160°C to oven the Preheat Strain the sauce through a fine sieve into a heatproof bowl. Discard the shallot, the Discard heatproof bowl. a into sieve fine athrough saucethe Strain Meanwhile, make your beurre blanc. Put the shallot, white wine, vinegar and vinegar wine, white shallot, the Put blanc. beurre your make Meanwhile,

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• • •

In a large bowl, cream the butter and sugar together until light and fluffy. Whisk Place the roasted plums in the base of your prepared cake tin. Add the golden the Add tin. cake prepared your of base the in plums roasted the Place Put the plums in a roasting dish and sprinkle with the light brown sugar and sugar brown light the with sprinkle and dish roasting a in plums the Put which to draw.In to which on ingredients of range wide a region the giving meet, kingdoms culinary France’sof agriculturalmanyand where also is it but Saône, the and Rhône from phine as among the riches of the area, to which I would add the white truffles well as produce from Provence to the south (think seafood and endless herbs) cattle, a boulangerie,anexperienceherecounts inhisbook,Heat. † * Michel RouxJnr. of star (and patron chef restaurant’scurrent the to respectively father and uncle are blood In Buford liked it so much in Lyon that he moved his family there and took on an apprenticeship in Michel and Michel lentils, of ful cooked

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and Montbéliarde graze Montbéliarde and T his includes the chick- great placetobepiggy, butperhapsnot tobeapig. cream). whipped (chestnutsand Blanc Mont a as such dings make (to syrup sugar with glazed into made are is Rhône- the of area eastern (an Savoie to native though thereisaSwissversion,too). Rhône- the in originates also rounds, wooden in sold mess cheese stinky wonderful, Vacherin,that blessed. been had land their after farmers as known Middle the to back harks again’,and der ud- cow’s a squeeze ‘to ‘reblocher’, verb the from derives Reblochon’sname et ht nua fo Montélimar, from nougat white best – French suggests, originally came from Vienna, but which have been perfected by the ing. goods to all this cheese, meat, cream and wine and the calories keep on com- surprising. hardly that’s and – weight gained they say probably between shared eaters. cheese melted hot of bowl big a into dipped is forks long which is said to have originated in Switzerland but is also popular in Rhône- the of tendencies Germanic more slightly the expresses also fondue Cheese 38). page on recipe see – border the over just from Gruyère, like cheese, Swiss (often cheese hard fresh with stock meat milking. second the from made was cows, milked re- the of cheese the – Reblochon yields. their measured had landowner the suspicion that, in the Rhône- the in that, suspicion cheese. and meat for equally but – cream almond sweet of likes the and cream fruit, for vas can- versatile a make to sweet and savoury straddles that foods those of one Comté, melted of mix a their milk yields. Montélimar is a purersort,however, madewithjusthoney, eggs, sugar andalmonds. terie and pickles (the perfect antidote to a cold day spent on the on spent day cold a to antidote perfect (the pickles and terie cos h Mdtraen n Middle and Mediterranean the across * at is thought to have come into France with the Greeks and examples of it can be found be can it of examples and Greeks the with France into come have to thought is at N a specialty in and around Savoie and Lyon. oug Cheeses are fashioned into a rich array of dishes such as such dishes of array rich a into fashioned are Cheeses Speak to someone who has spent an extended period in Lyon and they’ll they’ll and Lyon in period extended an spent has who someone to Speak T here’s brioche aux pralines , aux brioche , the cheese offered to Carthusian monks by monks Carthusian to offered cheese the dévotion, de fromage psr ad aisre rdcs ht a te name the as that, products patisserie and pastry Viennoiserie, for use in cakes, tarts and pastries or are or pastries and tarts cakes, in use for marrons des crème T hey would avoid milking each cow of every last drop until E mmental, Vacherin or Beaufort. Bread spiked with spiked Bread Beaufort.Vacherin or mmental, A pain au chocolat . au pain lpes, you’re never far from some meat. It’s a It’s meat. some from far never you’re lpes, E ast, ), sometimes used in pud- in used sometimes glacés), marrons rm Spanish from – little pastry parcels with parcels pastry little – Lyon de cocon * n te tees roh. roh is Brioche brioche. there’s then and A ges when farmers were taxed on taxed were farmers when ges T he local variety might contain T to turron he chestnuts of the of chestnuts he A ps, hc i coe in cooked is which lpes), T his was also the cheese the also was his A gaz lpes cuisine. Fondue, cuisine. lpes T n Iran. in his confirms my confirms his gratin Savoyard, gratin T here’sFrance’s A T A e ogt of nougat he lps) while lps) A dd sweet dd A A lpes (al- lpes rdèche ustria, 35 • RHÔNE-ALPeS 36 • europe ing, bread. A l Raclette) Reblochon, (Vacherin, cheese R LA chicken you can find, preferably from an independent butcher) independent an from preferably find, can you chicken A an get can’t you • make rest of eating additions. cept as are my the D icchio lors! ijon

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Simply put all the ingredients other than the salad leaves into a jam jar and shake Douse your salad in vinaigrette just before serving. (Don’t do this bit in advance in bit this do (Don’t serving. before just vinaigrette in salad your Douse of

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37 • RHÔNE-ALPeS 38 • europe a e a o w 4 Do notletthegarlicburn. translucent. turn to start onions the until or minutes five for garlic and carrot onion, 3 mixture, keeping backabout200mlofthecookingliquid,skimmedanyfoam. the drain Then heat. medium a on minutes 15–20 for together simmer and boil the to bring leaves, bay and lardons bacon shoulder, pork the Add water. 5 the lemonjuiceandclovesbringtoboil. add then cover, to water more plus them, over water cooking of cup reserved the iggy This 2 parsley anddrizzleofoliveoil. season to taste. Serve spooned into bowls with a scattering of toasted breadcrumbs, and garni bouquet the and cloves leaves, bay the out Fish hours. half a and two for 1 nd nd xactly n

hich • • • • •

Add the bouquet garni, andouille and the mixture of beans and other meats. Put ts Preheat theovento140°C/120°Cfan/gas1. Drain the beans of their liquid and put them in a large saucepan, covered with covered saucepan, large a in them put and liquid their of beans the Drain

Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan over a medium heat and fry the celery, the fry and heat medium a over pan frying large a in oil olive the Heat Transfer to a casserole dish and cover with foil or a lid, then place in the oven the in place then lid, a or foil with cover and dish casserole a to Transfer

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1kg potatoes(preferablywaxy,butanysuitedto 150ml beeforchickenstock sea saltandfreshlygroundblack pepper ½ tspgroundnutmeg(optional) 150g gruyèrecheese,grated 45g butter 1 garlicclove d I GR • A

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4 into thedish. stock the Pour butter. the of third final the and cheese the of rest the by followed top, on potatoes the of rest the layer then cheese, and potatoes the over these Dot bits. little into it break and butter the of third another Take potatoes. the over this 3 of thepotatoslicesinalayerbottom. half Place butter. the of third one with dish the grease Then dish. ovenproof wide a in theovenfor30–40minutesandleavetostandfiveminutesbeforeserving gratin the Bake top. the over sprinkling and finely super clove the of left whatever’s 1 2

• • • •

Crush the garlic with the back of a spoon to release the flavour and rub it all over This last stage is optional, but if you’re a garlic freak like me, I recommend slicing Preheat theovento220°C/200°Cfan/gas6. In a bowl, mix together the cheese, nutmeg, salt and pepper. Sprinkle half of half Sprinkle pepper. and salt nutmeg, cheese, the together mix bowl, a In . 39 • RHÔNE-ALPeS