Food Across Cultures

“Exploring an area of research and an approach which is still, relatively speaking, in its infancy this volume has clear interdisciplinary and international appeal. Essential reading for the felds of both linguistic and cultural identity.” —Paul Coggle, formerly University of Kent, UK Giuseppe Balirano · Siria Guzzo Editors Food Across Cultures Linguistic Insights in Transcultural Tastes Editors Giuseppe Balirano Siria Guzzo Department of Literary, Linguistics and Department of Humanities Comparative Studies University of Salerno University of Naples “L’Orientale” Fisciano, SA, Italy Naples, Italy

ISBN 978-3-030-11152-6 ISBN 978-3-030-11153-3 (eBook) https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-11153-3

Library of Congress Control Number: 2018966694

© Te Editor(s) (if applicable) and Te Author(s), under exclusive licence to Springer Nature Switzerland AG 2019 Tis work is subject to copyright. All rights are solely and exclusively licensed by the Publisher, whether the whole or part of the material is concerned, specifcally the rights of translation, reprinting, reuse of illustrations, recitation, broadcasting, reproduction on microflms or in any other physical way, and transmission or information storage and retrieval, electronic adaptation, computer software, or by similar or dissimilar methodology now known or hereafter developed. Te use of general descriptive names, registered names, trademarks, service marks, etc. in this publication does not imply, even in the absence of a specifc statement, that such names are exempt from the relevant protective laws and regulations and therefore free for general use. Te publisher, the authors, and the editors are safe to assume that the advice and information in this book are believed to be true and accurate at the date of publication. Neither the publisher nor the authors or the editors give a warranty, express or implied, with respect to the material contained herein or for any errors or omissions that may have been made. Te publisher remains neutral with regard to jurisdictional claims in published maps and institutional afliations.

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Tis Palgrave Macmillan imprint is published by the registered company Springer Nature Switzerland AG Te registered company address is: Gewerbestrasse 11, 6330 Cham, Switzerland Contents

1 Italian Food Perception as a Marker of the Spread of Italian Identity in Germany 1 Amelia Bandini and Marcella Corduas

2 Food and Translation in Montalbano 23 Margherita Dore

3 Callaloo or Pelau? Food, Identity and Politics in 43 Eleonora Esposito

4 Diasporic Identities in Social Practices: Language and Food in the Loughborough Italian Community 71 Siria Guzzo and Anna Gallo

5 Stuf the Turkey! An Investigation of Food, Language and Performative Identity Construction in Eat Pray Love 99 Bronwen Hughes

v vi Contents

6 Pancakes Stufed with Sweet Bean Paste: Food-Related Lexical Borrowings as Indicators of the Intensity of Language Contact in the Pacifc 127 Kazuko Matsumoto and David Britain

7 Pizza Chiena Between Two Worlds 169 Suzanne Romaine

Index 205 Notes on Contributors

Giuseppe Balirano is Professor of English Linguistics and Translation in the Department of Literary, Linguistic and Comparative Studies at the University of Naples ‘L’Orientale’, Italy. Amelia Bandini is Senior Lecturer and Adjunct Professor of German Language and Linguistics, University of Naples Federico II, Naples, Italy. Her main feld of interest is applied linguistics with a focus on foreign language teaching and learning, multilingualism and pluri- lingualism, and language as a marker of cultural identity. She has been developing “e-tandem” exchanges involving students of Italian and German FL in collaborative learning activities. She has also been involved in research projects on German immigration policies. David Britain has been Professor of Linguistics at the University of Bern in Switzerland since 2010, having previously worked in and the UK. His research interests embrace language variation and change, varieties of English (especially in Southern England, the Southern Hemisphere and the Pacifc), dialect contact and attrition, dialect ideologies, and the dialectology-human geography interface, especially with respect to space/place, urban/rural

vii viii Notes on Contributors and the role of mobilities. He is editor of Language in the British Isles (Cambridge University Press, 2007), co-editor (with Jenny Cheshire) of Social Dialectology (Benjamin, 2003), and co-author of Linguistics: An Introduction (with Andrew Radford, Martin Atkinson, Harald Clahsen and Andrew Spencer) (Cambridge University Press, 2nd edition 2009). David was Associate Editor of the Journal of Sociolinguistics between 2008 and 2017. Marcella Corduas is full Professor of Statistics at the University of Naples Federico II. Her main research interest focuses on time series analysis and statistical multivariate analysis. In particular, her research concentrates on the development of methodologies for time series clas- sifcation and forecasting. In recent years, she has been involved in the development of innovative models for rating and preference data. She has co-authored several articles where statistical techniques are applied to linguistic problems, and that has appeared in “Discourse Processes”, “Humor”, and “Language and Literature”. Margherita Dore is Research Fellow and Adjunct Lecturer at the Department of European, American and Intercultural Studies at the University of Rome “La Sapienza”. She holds a Ph.D. in Linguistics from Lancaster University, UK (2008), an M.Sc. in Translation and Intercultural Studies from UMIST, UK (2002) and a B.A. in English and Latin American Studies from the University of Sassari, Italy (2001). In 2009–2010, she was Visiting Scholar at the University of Athens (Greece). Her interests include: Humour Studies, Translation Studies, Audiovisual Translation and Cognitive Stylistics. She has (co) authored over ffteen papers and edited one essay collection on transla- tion practice (Achieving Consilience. Translation Teories and Practice, Cambridge Scholars Publisher, 2016). She has worked on the analysis of humour in translated audiovisual texts (especially dubbing and subti- tling) and in a range of other contexts, including stand-up comedy and within intercultural communication. Eleonora Esposito is Marie Skłodowska-Curie Research Fellow at the University of Navarra (Spain). She holds a M.A. in Cultural and Postcolonial Studies (University of Naples L’Orientale, 2010) and a Notes on Contributors ix

Ph.D./Doctor Europaeus in English Linguistics (University of Naples Federico II, 2015). Her research interests are in the feld of Language, Politics, Gender and Society in the European Union and in the Anglophone Caribbean, investigated in the light of Critical Discourse Studies, Multimodal Studies and Translation Studies. Currently, she is exploring new theoretical perspectives and integrated methodologies for the critical investigation of Social Media Discourses. Anna Gallo is currently a Ph.D. student in “Mind, Gender and Language” at the “Federico II” University of Naples, Italy, with her research being carried out jointly with the University of Bern. Her project is focused on language and identity amongst Anglo-Italians in Bristol, UK. She was a Visiting Research Student at the University of the West of England, UK and she holds an M.A. and a B.A. in Foreign Languages and Literatures from the University of Salerno, Italy. Her main research interests include language and identity, particularly within Italian communities in the UK, sociolinguistics, multilingual- ism, code-switching, discourse and identity. Siria Guzzo is Senior Lecturer of and Linguistics at the University of Salerno, Italy. She holds a Ph.D. in English for Special Purposes and a M.A. in Sociolinguistics. Her research interests mainly lie in the feld of sociolinguistics and language variation and change. She has conducted research and widely published in the felds of migration and its efects on identity, new dialect/ethnolect formation, language contact and its outcomes, and frst and second language acquisition. Her publi- cations include wide-ranging investigations on the Anglo-Italian commu- nity in the UK, and a forthcoming volume on the newly-emerging Cook Island variety of English. Bronwen Hughes is temporary Research Fellow and Adjunct Professor at the Università Suor Orsola Benincasa in Naples, Italy. She has taught extensively in the felds of English for Tourism, English for Law, Translation Studies and English for Professional Purposes at both undergraduate and postgraduate level. She holds a Ph.D. in Linguistics and Modern and Comparative Literature (European School for Advanced Studies). Her research interests lie in the felds of translation x Notes on Contributors as a tool for second language acquisition, cross-cultural media studies, and forensic linguistics. She has published two monographic works and numerous research articles which appear in collected volumes. Her cur- rent research centers upon a comparative study of frst-hand migrant chronicles collected both in the UK and in Italy. Kazuko Matsumoto is Associate Professor at the University of Tokyo, Japan. Her main interests are language variation and change. Grounded in the variationist sociolinguistic paradigm, she has been investigating dialect contact and new dialect formation (e.g. the formation and obso- lescence of a postcolonial Japanese koine in , the emergence of a Brazilian Portuguese variety in Japan as a migrant koine). Her interests also include contact linguistics, such as language maintenance and shift in postcolonial and migrant settings (in Palau and Japanese migrant communities in Mexico), contact-induced borrowing (loanwords in Palauan), and nativisation of postcolonial Englishes (Palauan English). Suzanne Romaine is Professor Emerita, University of Oxford. She has published numerous books and articles on linguistic diversity, multilin- gualism, language death, language revitalization, language change and contact. She has honorary doctorates from the University of Uppsala and the University of Tromsø and is a Fellow of the Finnish Academy of Science and Letters and the Norwegian Academy of Science and Letters. She has held a variety of scholarships and visiting fellowships at other universities. In 2015–2016 she was Marie Curie Fellow of the European Union and Senior Fellow at FRIAS (Freiburg Institute for Advanced Studies), University of Freiburg. List of Figures

Chapter 1 Fig. 1 Collocates of Atmosphäre and Ambiente 6 Fig. 2 Te lemma ‘pasta’ 9 Fig. 3 CUB models of the items: ‘table setting’ and ‘German translated menu’; solid line LK group, dashed line HK group 15 = = Fig. 4 Estimated average score from ftted CUB models (solid circle LK group, solid square HK group) 16 = = Fig. 5 CUB models of the items: ‘Product name’ and ‘Italian fag’; solid line LK group, dashed line HK group 18 = = Chapter 4 Fig. 1 Restaurant menu included in L.I.Ms (extracts only) 89 Fig. 2 Trattoria menu included in L.I.Ms (extracts only) 89 Fig. 3 Sunday menu sample included in L.I.M.s 91 Fig. 4 Selection of dishes from a trattoria menu included in L.I.M.s 92 Chapter 6 Fig. 1 Palauan okama ‘iron pot’ (from Japanese okama ) and kerisil ‘kerosene stove’ (from German Kerosin or English kerosene ) 147

xi xii List of Figures

Fig. 2 Food served at a Palauan siukang ‘a traditional ceremony’ (from Japanese shūkan ) including susi and inarisusi (from Japanese sushi and inarizushi ), and kiarots (from English carrots ); siukang platters signposted in a supermarket 152 Fig. 3 Clockwise from top left: Palauan boks, ‘a special table for serving ceremonial food’ (from Japanese bokkusu referring to ‘box’, but the concept comes from Japanese o-zen ‘a special table for serving ceremonial food’); food on a boks, including Palauan susi (from Japanese sushi ) and chosiruko, ‘rice cake in sweet azuki bean soup’ (from Japanese oshiruko ) and mais ‘corn’ (Spanish maís ); food in a large siukang platter, including susi, inarisusi, mais and fnadene (from Guamanian Chamorro fena’denne’ ); Palauan beroski, ‘a decorative cloth for covering food for important guests at a siukang (from Japanese furoshiki ) 153 Fig. 4 Ingredients for Palauan chosiruko, including changko ‘(ready- made) sweet bean paste’ (from Japanese anko ), chazuki mame ‘azuki beans (to cook changko )’ (from Japanese azuki mame ), merikengko ‘rice cake four’ (from Japanese merikenko—meriken ‘American’ + ko ‘four’, referring to ‘wheat four’) 154 Fig. 5 Top to bottom: items used for chewing betelnut, including Palauan buuch ‘betelnut’, (ch)aus ‘limestone powder’, kebui ‘pepper leaf’, tane ‘cardamom seeds’ (from Japanese tane, meaning ‘seeds’ in general), and cheech ‘tobacco’; advertising signs outside a small food store, including ice candy ‘ice pop’ (from Japanese aisu kyandē ), tama ‘small sweet ball-shaped fritters’ (from Japanese tama, meaning ‘ball (shaped)’), bento ‘lunchbox’ (from Japanese bentō ), okoko ‘pickled papaya’ (from Japanese okōkō, meaning ‘pickled vegetable’ in general or ‘pickled radish’), tet ‘bag for betelnut’, aus (in Standard Palauan orthography chaus, see above), tane (see above), ramen ‘noodle’ (from Japanese rāmen ) 156 Fig. 6 Clockwise from top left: tama ‘small sweet ball-shaped fritters’ (from Japanese tama meaning ‘ball (shaped)’), korokke ‘tempura’ (from Japanese korokke, ‘potato croquettes’); a takeaway Refresher Island menu board, with tama, tama tuu ‘banana tama ’, abrabang ‘deep-fried bun flled with sweet bean paste’ (from Japanese abura ‘oil’ + pan ‘bread’), bento, and List of Figures xiii

so on; musubi ‘rice ball in nori ’ (from Japanese o-musubi ); singere ‘thinly sliced and dried radish cooked with tuna’ (from Japanese sengiri daikon ); ningiri(mesi) ‘rice ball without seaweed sheet’ (from Japanese o-ningiri ) with takuang ‘radish pickled with salt and sugar’ (from Japanese takuan ); mini pancakes flled with changko ‘sweet bean paste’ (right) and with cream cheese (left) 157 Fig. 7 Clockwise from top left: takuang ‘radish pickled with salt and sugar’ (from Japanese takuan ); huksinske ‘radish, aubergine, lotus root, cucumber, perilla, shitake mushroom and sesame seeds pickled with soy sauce and sugar’ (from Japanese fukujinzuke ); papaya okoko ‘pickled papaya’ (from Japanese okōkō ‘pickled vegetable’); skemono ‘pickled vegetable’ (from Japanese tsukemono ) 159 Fig. 8 Top to bottom: local coconut nectar syrup, once the ingredient (together with wheat gluten) for chameiu as both a soft and alcoholic drink; Japanese original ameyu ‘sweet syrup with wheat gluten and ginger’ 160 Chapter 7 Fig. 1 Pizza Chiena 170 Fig. 2 Aunt Louise’s recipe for Easter Meat Pie 177 Fig. 3 Results from newspaper survey 179 Fig. 4 Te grammar of food: names 180 Fig. 5 Te grammar of food: ingredients 181 Fig. 6 Sagra della Pizza Chiena, Torre Le Nocelle, 2017 184 Fig. 7 Pieter Bruegel the Elder (1559). Te Fight Between Carnival and Lent 192 List of Tables

Chapter 4 Table 1 Examples of code-mixing in three diferent menu typologies 81 Table 2 Percentages of languages used in naming dishes 81 Table 3 Naming dishes: brief synthesis of examples 84 Chapter 6 Table 1 Language contact history in Palau (updated from Matsumoto 2001) 131 Table 2 Contact-induced borrowing scale (Tomason 2001, pp. 70–71) 142 Table 3 Number and proportion of borrowings in Palauan by source language (updated from Matsumoto 2016) 144 Table 4 Number and proportion of food-related borrowing in Palauan by source language 146 Table 5 Te distribution of food-related borrowing by category and source language 149

xv Introduction

Dis-moi ce que tu manges, je te dirai ce que tu es. (Brillat-Savarin 1825, p. 3)

One of the earliest modern writers on food, Jean Anthelme Brillat- Savarin, unintentionally advanced that food tastes, just like language choices, would be profoundly shaped by cultural practices. Foods that are uncommon, or unfamiliar to a culture, for instance, may be seen as inappropriate for consumption to another. In fact, favors that are par- ticularly liked by a given community, can be deemed as unpleasant, or even banned, by others. Some foods are considered taboos by some reli- gions, while they may be the main dish in others. Food is always heavily dependent on context; thus, cultural and social practices will determine whether some food can be accepted or not. While the notion of cultur- ally specifc favor principles has often been proposed as a way of clas- sifying cultural diferences in cuisines, contemporary food industries, which operate on the global market, hybridize our tastes and dishes regardless of any categorizing cultural principle. Although food is obviously vital to community identifcations, being it a core element in everyday practices communally used to create and maintain a shared sense of cultural identity, the linguistic interest in food xvii xviii Introduction discourses is still, too often, an underexplored theme. Food and culinary practices in migration contexts, in particular, call for a broader investi- gation from both linguistic and cultural viewpoints. Indeed, food, and its related practices of production, preparation, and consumption, seem to play a fundamental role in diasporic communities when connecting and altering peoples, places, tastes, and cultural awareness around the world. Ethnic food, for instance, through its culture-bound names and forms, and their conservation or adaptive changes through contact with other cultures and over time, can be seen as a key element in contem- porary social, cultural and linguistic practices since its consumption and production work to create and maintain cultural and linguistic identi- ties alive. Both food and linguistic practices stand as a constant re-pro- duction of those ties that bind people, place, and customs across space and time. Indeed, they are human features directly entrenched in cul- tural values and historic customs; consequently, just as languages, and/ or language use, vary according to diferent geographic, socio-economic, and cultural circumstances, so does food. If we consider food and lan- guage preferences as culturally determined activities, we must also accept the fact that they may be both subjected to change according to difer- ent social variables such as age, gender, situational context, or lifestyle. However, since food as well as language are already acknowledged as both fundamental cultural icons, the editors of this volume intend to introduce a novel cross-cultural and transcultural take on the issue. One which might help shed light—in line with trends and current inter- ests in contact migration and diaspora—not only on what happens to languages and cultures in contact, but also to food, food naming, and food practices in contact. Our main idea is to investigate food discourses across cultures by looking at food as a powerful vehicle for positive inter- cultural exchange, whether through conservation or hybridization of the original forms. Indeed, food, like language, embodies a form of resist- ance and abrogation through which cultural continuity is maintained, or conversely, it may be the focal point through which migrant communi- ties fnd compromise, or even consent, within the host community. Against this backdrop, the present volume explores a variety of takes from linguistic and cultural points of view addressing food and food practices in cross-cultural contact, more specifcally looking at changes Introduction xix brought about by diasporic circumstances. All contributions in the volume approach food and its discourse realization indeed as a way to investigate an understudied area of linguistics, that is, the relationship between language and migration, or diaspora, specifcally through dis- courses on food. Taking as a given the signifcance of food practices, their psychologically and socially fundamental role in shaping one’s cul- tural and/or individual identities, just as that of one’s frst language, the volume presents various linguistic and cultural readings of food as an instrument to explore diasporic identities. From a methodological viewpoint, Food Across Cultures: Linguistic Insights in Transcultural Tastes promotes diferent integrated approaches relating to socio-linguistic investigation, to translation and multimodal semiotic analysis. In particular, the authors in the volume investigate how socio-linguistic approaches applied to food practices can help identify (self- and/or other-) social and cultural constructions in diverse transnational and diasporic contexts. Te main two questions the vol- ume addresses are:

1. If food has the symbolic power to transform transnational identities from a conceptual idea into a concrete reality, is it also possible for diasporic communities to maintain their cultural authenticity when encountering the Other? 2. What role does language play in helping migrants to maintain and/or creolize their traditional tastes in their new homes?

Each chapter in the volume presents a fascinating range of data and refreshing perspectives on cultures and languages in contact: from English (and some of its varieties) to Italian, German, Spanish, and to Japanese and Palauan, as well as an exemplary range of types of contact, in colonial, multicultural, and diasporic situations. Te authors, through diverse and often linguistic integrated methodologies, aim to examine how socio-linguistic food practices can, and do, contribute to iden- tity construction in diverse transnational and diasporic contexts. Tey mainly focus their analyses on food as the glue that binds communities of practice (Eckert and Wenger 2005) together while shaping transna- tional identities in diferent language contact situations. All the chapters xx Introduction in the volume focus on the manifold discourses emerging as the bear- ers of alterity and/or identity through food. Te hub of our investiga- tion centers upon the relationship between ‘ethnic’ or ‘diasporic’ food and transnational identities. Te general consideration which seems to be emerging from the diferent contributions is that in migrant and dias- poric communities, a number of ethnic food practices serve to craft both group and individual identities as well as multiple social positioning. Moreover, food practices are necessarily vehiculated by/through the lan- guage(s) employed by specifc communities when referring to three main food-related procedures: production, preparation, and consumption (Montanari 2006); three signifcant activities which can he linguistically investigated in as much the same way as any other act of performance and culture-bound positioning. Te editors sought the contribution of expert linguists who interpreted food as performance and culture, an item able to forge a cross-boundary identity that traverses linguistic, cul- tural, and post-national borders. Terefore, our aim is to share stimu- lating, innovative research while building up a community of scholars active in the linguistic and cultural feld of food and migration. Te present volume includes seven chapters aimed at the investiga- tion of the multifaceted identity-construction process through food as a performative act and marker of identity. Te present studies deal with how cultural, ethnic and, social identities are maintained or challenged through language, from diferent critical perspectives and by applying diferent methodologies. Tis diferent constellation of approaches and themes guided the editors’ choice to arrange the order of chapters alpha- betically according to the contributors’ names. In Chapter 1, Amelia Bandini and Marcella Corduas examine the complex issue of Italian food perception and identity in Germany. As they claim, food consumption has become a strong identity marker being related to the domains of linguistic and cultural identifcation and representation. Food and the language of food unavoidably travel across cultures and transnational food migration becomes a key element in the (re)defnition of ethnic identities (Möhring 2007). Tis guided their investigation of the perceptions of Italian food in Germany as regards cultural and societal representation, image and/or integration of Italian (culinary) identity into the German society. Chapter 2 draws attention Introduction xxi on the relationship between Food and Translation exploring how food has been dealt with in both (TT1) and (TT2) subtitled versions the Italian TV series Inspector Montalbano, which has been adapted from Andrea Camilleri’s short stories and nov- els. In her contribution, Margherita Dore shows that Montalbano’s attitudes to food and Italian–Sicilian traditional cuisine are expressed diferently in the British and American versions. While the former tends to be more source-oriented in its attempt to convey the peculi- arities of Italian and Sicilian food, the latter appears generally more ­target-oriented. Most importantly, when the American version does retain the Italian and Sicilian culinary terms, they are not always trans- ferred as accurately as it should be. Moving to the Caribbean, Chapter 3 by Eleonora Esposito uncovers the process of identity negotiation, food and politics in Trinidad and Tobago, investigating the major role played by food in the current identity narratives of both the single Afro- and Indo- communities, as well as that of the nation as a whole. Two food metaphors (‘Callaloo’ and ‘Pelau’) seem to epitomize the tension between ethnic groups in the cultural and political discursive construc- tion of national identity in Trinidad and Tobago and entail diferent degrees of heterogeneity and homogeneity. Focusing on Italian diaspori- cidentities in the UK, Siria Guzzo and Anna Gallo’s work ofers a com- parative analysis of the speech of Loughborough Italians in Chapter 4 of this volume. Taking into account three language varieties (Italian dialect, Standard Italian, and English), and adopting a variationist approach, they discuss how the LIC’s transnational identity emerges via language devices in social/food practices. Analysing a corpus of menus, Guzzo and Gallo investigate borrowings and code-mixing, and focus on naming dishes and explanatory notes. Menus acting as identity markers and/or cultural adaptations, the authors suggest that Anglo-Italians convey their Italianness and Englishness by means of mixed language, contact English features alongside culture- and emotion-loaded images. In Chapter 5, Bronwen Hughes interestingly provides an investigation of food, lan- guage and performative identity construction in the original (American) and dubbed (Italian) versions of the flm Eat Pray Love, with the main focus on the frst part of the flm Eat, which takes place in Italy. Closely analyzing the markers of identity discourse such as culture-bound terms, xxii Introduction specialized lexis, code-mixing, code-switching, and phonetic variation, the author investigates the manner in which food, and culinary prow- ess, can serve to bring together individuals belonging to diferent nations and cultures within a community of practice (Eckert and Wenger 2005). Shifting to language contact in the Pacifc, in Chapter 6, Kazuko Matsumoto and David Britain examine the distribution and integra- tion of food-related loanwords to provide insight into the cultural inten- sity of the contact between indigenous and colonial languages arguing that a strict correlation between the adoption and indigenization of a foreign food culture and intense contact do exist. Tey examine food- related borrowings from four colonial languages—Spanish, German, Japanese, and English—that have come into contact with the of Western Micronesia over the past 125 years. Last but def- nitely not least, in Chapter 7, Suzanne Romaine traces the history of an Italian dish known as pizza chiena ‘flled pizza’ and by various other names, brought to North America by Southern Italian immigrants. Exploring the process of translation and adaptation of pizza chiena, the author introduces a number of dimensions of variability in both the Italian and English name practices and elicits some of the methodologi- cal problems involved in translating culinary traditions across communi- ties and time periods and between oral and print cultures.

Giuseppe Balirano Siria Guzzo

References

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