EXPERIENTIAL SHAPING OF PUBLIC SPACE DURING PILGRIMAGE: THE ALANDI-PANDHARPUR PALKHI PRAJAKTA SANE A thesis submitted in fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Architecture Postgraduate Board University of New South Wales March 2007 Abstract Space perceived and experienced through movement presents an interesting array of imagery which blends together to form a comprehensive whole. My thesis explores this dimension of spatial complexity through the public ritual of pilgrimage. This profound and deeply significant human activity connects the individual places to form an integrated sacred network. The practice of pilgrimage has developed over centuries across the globe and continues to grow and influence a huge cross section of society to come together and move en-masse towards religious centres and personal enlightenment. Public spaces demand a simultaneous co-existence of people, activities and their setting. The phenomenon of pilgrimage is central to the public realm. Its study involves an intricate layering of beliefs, customs, traditions and religion which collectively govern the people-space relationship. The transformation of a space to a place, from static to dynamic, from passive to active occurs during this activity, maintaining the traditional usage while simultaneously evolving as a product of interaction between people, rituals and spaces. In this thesis, I examine the experiential shaping of space which occurs through pilgrims’ activities and their impacts on the given urban and architectural conditions. The research is based on my study of the Alandi-Pandharpur Pilgrimage in India. It is an outcome of my participation in the ritual as, both, an architect and a pilgrim. I focus on the existing public spaces and their spontaneous response to the unplanned activity of the Pilgrimage. The spatial experience transcends the criteria of aesthetics and functionality of a public space to a deeper exploration of human characteristics and convictions. From this perspective, the thesis considers the broader role of designed public spaces, the extent of inclusion of community rituals and their significance in the shaping of built environment. i Acknowledgements I would like to acknowledge all the people who have helped in the completion of this thesis. First and foremost, I thank my supervisor, Dr. Susan Thompson, Programme Head of Planning and Urban Development at FBE, UNSW. This study would not have been possible without her skilful supervision, constant encouragement and support, and kindness. I am highly indebted to my co-supervisor, Dr. Jon Lang for his valuable comments and positive suggestions on this study. My deep appreciation also goes to Dr. Michael Tawa for his guidance during the initial stages of my research. I would also like to thank the Faculty of Built Environment for awarding me with the David Wightman’s postgraduate scholarship for the second year of my study. I am grateful to Dr. Catherine de Lorenzo, Director of Post Graduate research for her help and support during my entire candidature. I also acknowledge my friend, Demis Bhargava, for his help in editing this thesis. At a personal level, I would like to express my gratitude to my parents and my brother who have graciously supported me in the entire course my study, as in all my other endeavours. Their encouragement and assistance during my fieldwork in India, along with all my other extended family members needs to be specially mentioned. Last, but not the least, I thank my husband, Yogesh, for his love, encouragement and understanding throughout the course. Without his help and unconditional support, my study and thesis would not have been possible. This study is about pilgrims’ journey. However, it has also been a fulfilling journey for me and a learning experience. I strongly believe that right from its origin to its completion; the sole driving force has been Lord Vithoba of Pandharpur. His blessings have manifested in the form of help and support from all the people mentioned above. ii Dedication I would like to dedicate this thesis to my newborn son, Krish, who waited long enough for its completion. He stepped into this world just a day after the thesis was ready for submission and has been a wonderful and a patient companion throughout its development. iii Table of contents ABSTRACT i ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS ii DEDICATION iii TABLE OF CONTENTS iv CHAPTER 1: ESTABLISHING A FRAMEWORK 1 Background 1 Key elements and theme of the research 3 Aim of the research 6 Structure of the thesis 7 Conclusion 8 CHAPTER 2: RESEARCH METHOD 9 Research approach 9 Participant observation method 11 Stage 1: Review of Literature 14 Stage 2: Designing fieldwork 14 Stage 3: Analysis and interpretation 25 Conclusion 27 iv CHAPTER 3: UNDERSTANDING A PILGRIMAGE 28 Pilgrimage: Meanings and Implications 29 Key elements of a pilgrimage 32 Pilgrimage concepts: An overview 36 Pilgrimage in Hindusim 41 Generic factors of pilgrimage 54 Conclusion 56 CHAPTER 4: UNDERSTANDING A PUBLIC SPACE 57 Background 58 Design determinants 63 Physical criteria 64 Experiential criteria 73 Environment and human behaviour 80 Architectural anthropology 84 Conclusion 85 CHAPTER 5: THE PALKHI OF ALANDI TO PANDHARPUR 86 My story 87 Review of literature 89 Regional settings 92 Pandharpur and Lord Vithoba 94 Alandi and Jnaneshwar 95 Elements and features of Palkhi 98 Conclusion 113 v CHAPTER 6: CONTEXTUAL SETTINGS OF LONAND 114 Background 116 Settings of Lonand 117 Palkhi in Lonand 129 Conclusion 134 CHAPTER 7: PALKHI IN LONAND: AN ANALYSIS 135 Selected public squares 136 Applying the physical criteria 140 Applying the experiential Criteria 153 Palkhi in the town: An activity mapping of the event 161 Interpretation and meanings 184 Conclusion 196 CHAPTER 8: CONCLUSIONS AND REFLECTIONS 197 Findings of the study 197 Summary of findings 205 Methodological reflections 208 Limitations of the present study 210 Implications for the design of the public spaces 212 Ideas for future research 214 Conclusion 215 BIBLIOGRAPHY 217 LIST OF FIGURES vii vi Chapter 1 Establishing a framework Establishing a framework Chapter one BACKGROUND I come from a fairly conservative family in Pune, a rapidly developing city in India. Beliefs, traditions, religion and epics have always played a significant part of life. Today they continue as strong as ever, woven into the very fabric of everyday activities. The moral-based stories from the ancient epics which often depict good versus evil are passed from generations. They surface at different junctures of life as guiding values. Vivid childhood memories of welcoming Lord Ganesh home, worshipping his idol for seven days and immersing it in the local Mutha River; the Diwali celebration of lights and many such festivals bind us to our family, city and the country. Religion and its teachings are woven through the lifecycle as rituals associated with important stages in one’s life. These timely and significant rituals also manifest in daily worship, festivals and fasts, which over the years, form the rich traditions and culture of my family and fellow country folk. These happen at private, local and regional levels establishing a sense of identity and continuity. Thus, even while living far away, in Australia, the traditions and values connect me back to my roots, continuing to shape my life today. Pune, as well as the entire state of Maharashtra, is renowned for the ‘Palkhi’, a unique Hindu pilgrimage, which begins at a nearby town called Alandi. Alandi is famous for the legendary saint Jnaneshwar, who has enchanted and influenced masses with his teachings for over eight centuries. His followers have walked together in the holy pilgrimage of Alandi to Pandharpur, the temple town of Lord Vithoba. Today almost half a million devout pilgrims walk in their ancestors’ footsteps, following the ancient ritual of Palkhi. As a part of my school’s cultural education programme, I participated in this local Pilgrimage for three consecutive years. From that experience, I recall the enlivened atmosphere filled with the ‘varkaris’ (pilgrims), chanting of ‘bhajans’ (devotional songs) and their infectious devotional fervour. Leaving 1 Chapter 1 Establishing a framework aside their backgrounds, caste and creed, and amidst adverse climatic conditions, they journey together in joy and harmony to collectively experience elation and spiritual bliss at Pandharpur. The all encompassing nature of this public event of Alandi-Pandharpur pilgrimage is a significant memory of my childhood, which I carry with me today. Later, this memory developed a new awareness as I started studying architecture and humanities. Learning about various historical and sacred sites in different global religions showed me many other parallels in human beliefs, despite their varied architectural expressions. Pilgrimage as a meritorious religious activity to the holy sites has been happening in almost all of world religions for ages. Drawing on its common notion of journey, I started looking at it as a ‘mass movement through public space’. As the whole procession passes through several towns on its way, it affects their existing architectural and urban conditions. This is strongly experienced when the Alandi-Pandharpur pilgrimage halts in Pune city for two days. The mobilisation of resources, people’s hospitality and service to the pilgrims, and the temporary activation of the whole place triggered my thought process. The genesis of my research lies in these ideas about the pilgrimage phenomenon and its effect on a public space1. In a broader sense, this thesis is an account of my journey as an architect and a pilgrim. I explore the multiple meanings embedded in the act of pilgrimage and link it to the concepts of architecture and design of a public space. The study is thus located at the intersection of anthropology and architecture. The component of human involvement as crucial to both aspects forms the pivotal point and the bridging factor. 1 The word ‘space’ is used specifically within the scope of this thesis.