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An Homage to the Grape

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An Homage to the Grape VOLUME 29, No. 4 {2015} AN HOMAGE TO THE GRAPE A REMARKABLE FRUIT SIGNATURE TEAM Éric Bertoldi Simon Gaudreault-Rouleau Stéphane Leroux Julie Perreault Luc Rolland Justin Rouette LEGEND RATINGS AGING POTENTIAL ST Signature Team – out of 100 The aging potential of a wine Drink now WA Wine Advocate (Robert Parker) – out of 100 is its potential lifespan in good V Vinous (A. Galloni, S. Tanzer) – out of 100 cellaring conditions. Note that it’s Drink now a simple suggestion tool; the year or keep until WS Wine Spectator – out of 100 mentioned indicates the vintage’s year indicated JR Jancis Robinson – out of 20 peak. Of course, certain wines RVF Revue du vin de France – out of 20 may be to your liking long before Drink during the BD Bettane & Desseauve – out of 20 the year mentioned. indicated period B Burghound – out of 100 of maturity 000 Quantity of bottles available THE SIGNATURE TEAM’S SAQ CODE CURRENT FAVOURITES 00000000 O U E White wine Red wine R I T FAV O U R AN HOMAGE TO THE GRAPE A REMARKABLE FRUIT This edition of the Courrier vinicole celebrates grapes in their purest form. It is an homage to the fruit that marks each wine with its particu- lar character and that naturally provides an infi nite palette of aromas. This edition features varieties of all sorts—some that are well-known and others that are quite rare. They are our guides to the discovery of wines from around the world. Selected with the utmost care, they are the vehicles that express the very best of great terroirs. The wines we have chosen represent the apotheosis of Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache Noir, Malbec, Merlot, Nebbiolo, Pinot Noir, Syrah and Zinfandel. You’ll also find Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc, Marsanne, Viognier and Chardonnay, which have produced white wines of great character. Throughout this issue, our mission is to allow the grapes to express themselves and demystify the distinction between varieties. Using detailed product information and explanations provided by the heads of the Des Lises, Vacheron and Leeuwin Estates, it will become easier to diff erentiate between varieties and appreciate them for their individual fl avours. Learn about and rediscover some of the most notable varieties that surprise and amaze wine lovers throughout the world, and celebrate what this remarkable fruit has to off er in its purest expression. ORDER FROM FRIDAY, AUGUST 28, AT NOON. COMMANDE.SAQ.COM Find out how to order as well as consult the complete collection on pages 63 and 64. Nebbiolo 6,000 ha Zinfandel 33,000 ha Malbec 41,000 ha Pinot Noir 87,000 ha Cabernet Sauvignon 290,000 ha Surface area of grape Grenache Noir varieties* planted 185,000 ha around the world AN HOMAGE TO THE GRAPE Merlot 267,000 ha Syrah 186,000 ha *PRESENTED IN THIS COURRIER VINICOLE. Source: ANDERSON, Kym. Which Winegrape Varieties are Grown Where? [Online] 2013. [www.adelaide.edu.au/press/titles/winegrapes/winegrapes-ebook.pdf] 2 Marsanne 1,700 ha Viognier 11,500 ha Chenin Blanc 35,000 ha Riesling 50,000 ha A REMARKABLEA FRUIT DID YOU KNOW? There are more than 10,000 grape Chardonnay varieties cultivated around the world. 200,000 ha Only a few of these are used to make the most renowned wines on the planet. Sauvignon Blanc 110,000 ha 3 Grape size, skin thickness The terroir and maceration time have a direct impact on the extraction of tannins, eff ect fl avours and colour. WINE TASTE INFLUENCERS THIN THICK SKIN SKIN Aging LIKE LIKE PINOT NOIR CABERNET SAUVIGNON Altitude pebbly soil == Water better heat AN HOMAGE TO THE GRAPE retention Stones in the soil help grapes mature, since they store heat during the day, then release it at night. Sun clay or limestone soil Soil composition == coolness and humidity Clay or limestone soil ensures balanced growth and fructifi cation Microorganisms of the grape. 4 PEDICLE FLESH Contains the water and sugar which will eventually be transformed into alcohol. STALK Creates bitterness. SKIN Creates colour, aroma and fi ne tannins. BRUSH SEEDS A REMARKABLEA FRUIT French ampelographer Grape ripening Victor Pulliat established and a classifi cation system based on the grape ripening cycle. temperature 1st PHASE Chardonnay The further north a variety is Pinot Noir planted, the less heat it requires Sauvignon Blanc to reach maturity. 2nd PHASE EARLY cool VARIETIES climate Cabernet Sauvignon Chenin Blanc N Malbec Marsanne Merlot LATE hot Riesling VARIETIES climate Syrah S Viognier The further south a variety is planted, the more heat it requires 3rd PHASE to reach maturity. Grenache Noir Nebbiolo Zinfandel 5 Table of contents RED VARIETIES CABERNET WHITE SAUVIGNON VARIETIES 31 RIESLING GRENACHE 08 NOIR 37 SAUVIGNON BLANC MALBEC 12 40 CHENIN BLANC MERLOT 18 42 MARSANNE NEBBIOLO 20 45 VIOGNIER PINOT NOIR 22 48 CHARDONNAY SYRAH 24 52 ZINFANDEL 58 WHITE VARIETIES Racy, mineral and profound RIESLING ALSO KNOWN AS Rheinriesling Rhin ORIGIN Germany Rheingau AROMATIC CHARACTERISTICS MINERAL LEMON APPLE FLORAL PINE PEACH HONEY NOTES PREFERRED TERROIRS Germany, France Alsace RIESLING Austria, Australia, Canada United States Washington No. 01 The Boy Riesling 2013, Eden Valley SOUTH AUSTRALIA 12540557 600 ST90 WA90+ V91 750 ml $30 TWO HANDS “This is the best possible way to learn about what the Rieslings from the Founded in 1999, Two Hands is a partnership between Eden Valley have to off er. The Two Hands Picture Series is a precise, literal Michael Twelftree and Richard Mintz, who prefer to take representation of a variety and the purest expression of how that variety an intuitive and personalized approach to ensuring the represents its location. Produced at a 100-year-old winery, this cuvée off ers potential of each vineyard is maximized. Ambitious and a lively and harmonious profi le, with aromas of lime and preserved lemon, motivated, the pair are ranked among the very best green apple and a hint of minerality that is expressed by saline and chalky producers Down Under and also in the entire world. notes that are supported by a 7-month maturation on lees.” Their wines almost always appear in Wine Spectator’s renowned Top 100 list—a very impressive feat! – Signature Team 8 No. 02 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Kabinett 2013 MOSELLE, GERMANY 11860241 120 WA92 2025 750 ml $33 WILLI SCHAEFER “The 2013 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Kabinett is a very pure and noble wine Located in Graach in the heart of the Moselle, the Schaefer that does not show much on the nose except the pure, clear, almost ascetic, family is one of Germany’s cult wine producers, with lime-scented Domprobst character. But then, on the palate, the 2013 reveals a wine making activities dating as far back as 1121. Since stunning juiciness and fruit intensity countered by the piquant and racy acidity, 2002, Christophe Schaefer has helped his father Willi and a very pure and mineral fi nish and aft ertaste. This is a deep and complex on the barely 4-hectare estate scattered over several personality with a great aging potential, and the minerality of the wine absorbs parcels of vines (including Franches de Pied), half of the sweetness of almost 50 grams…. Excellent.” which are 50 years old. Planted on the steep Domprobst and Himmelreich sites, the house Rieslings are the – www.erobertparker.com incarnation of everything this fascinating region has to offer, with a pure expression of fruit that marries precision, lightness and fi nesse. No. 03 Birkweiler Riesling Trocken 2012 PALATINATE, GERMANY 12592226 240 ST91 JR16.5 2022 750 ml $35 RIESLING ÖKONOMIERAT REBHOLZ “Benefi ting from full southern exposure on slopes between a 35% and 40% Located at Siebeldingen, in the Südliche Weinstrasse in incline, the Birkweiler Kastanienbusch winery is one of the highest in altitude, the southern portion of the Palatinate (Pfalz), this estate and it is also located in the renowned southern part of the Pfalz. The roughly has made a reputation for itself thanks to the excellence 20-year-old Riesling vines are harvested by hand and never come into contact of its dry white wines. Hansjörg Rebholz, third-generation with wood, nor are they fi ltered. The aroma is full of fi nesse and is very inviting winemaker, is now the head of this family concern with with hints of apple, peach, lime, apple blossom and Asian pear. The mouthfeel 22 hectares entirely dedicated to organic production. is pure and crystalline, with a touch of soft ness that gives it an undeniable With no additions and made exclusively with indigenous charm. Sometimes it feels good to escape Moselle!” strains of yeast, their winemaking is smooth and min- imalist. Rebholz wines marry concentration, complexity – Signature Team and elegance. No. 04 Scharzhof Riesling 2014 MOSELLE, GERMANY 00850909 240 WA90+ (2013 vintage) 2022 750 ml $39 EGON MÜLLER “The Scharzhof Riesling is our entry wine: It is made from grapes grown in our In 1797, Jean-Jacques Koch acquired the Scharzhof vineyards in Saarburg, Oberemmel, Wawern and the Wiltinger sites of Braunfels estate from the French Republic. This property in the and Kupp. Our Scharzhof Riesling is characterised by balancing sweetness, Saar, a region and a tributary of the Moselle, is home to minerality and the typical Saar acidity. Whilst it can be savoured with great Scharzhofberg, Germany’s (and maybe the world’s) most enjoyment when young, it also has a storage potential of fi ve to eight years.” renowned Riesling winery. The fi rst vines were thought to have been planted by the Romans, and from its founding – www.scharzhof.de in the year 700 to the Middle Ages, the estate belonged to the St.
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