PANEL TASTING Chilean Syrah From a standing start, Syrah has made it to number six in Chile’s wine pop charts in less than 20 years. And this could be just the beginning, says Peter Richards MW The sTory of syrah in Chile is not a straightforward one. It’s a tale still in the telling, with a murky past, highs and lows, capped by an uncertain future trajectory. This makes it intriguing, especially given that for some time it has been generating a good deal of excitement among wine lovers in the know. The key thing is that there are many – from drinkers to producers and wine critics alike – who hope that this is one saga with a happy ending. The history of syrah in Chile is a matter of debate. records suggest it may have arrived as early as the first half of the 19th century, in the Quinta Normal nursery project in santiago. Its commercial origins in the country, however, are most commonly attributed to Alejandro Dussaillant, a french immigrant who arrived in Chile in 1874 and planted vineyards in the Curicó region which included ‘gross syrah’. (Though this could equally have been the aromatic savoie variety Mondeuse Noire, which goes under this epithet and, according to Wine Grapes, is a close relative of syrah.) either way, by the early 1990s there was scant trace of syrah in Chile, the theory being that, even if it had been there, it was lost in the agrarian reforms of the 1970s. This started to change in the mid-1990s. Although importing vine stock into Chile is notoriously difficult due to stringent quarantine laws, forward-thinking producers began to look for new varieties to work with – and syrah fitted the bill. Rapid growth fundación Chile, a now defunct state-backed enterprise, was one of the first to import syrah clones. so too was Aconcagua-based errázuriz, which planted them on hillsides with new drip irrigation systems and received plaudits for its Chilean debut syrah reserva 1996. since then, syrah plantings have Chilean Syrah: grown rapidly. from the first 19 hectares registered in 1996, Syrah: plantings reached 2,197ha in 2001, and 5,391 ha in 2008, over know your vintages 5% of the national vineyard. Now Chile’s sixth most planted the facts variety, its growth remains strong (increasing more than 28% 2013 Late spring rain 2010 The earthquake Total vineyard area between 2009 and 2012) while other key varieties are stable complicated a long, cool vintage: cool and dry, 128,638ha (Cabernet sauvignon, Merlot), in decline (Chardonnay), or vintage: bright, fresh with some wonderfully Syrah plantings 6%, 7,745ha growing less markedly (sauvignon Blanc, Carmenere). wines, variable in quality fresh and elegantly Syrah’s ranked position in This expansion Is reflected in the growing range of styles but some stand-outs. delineated wines that are Chilean wine varieties sixth, that Chilean syrah now offers. In the north, elqui gives a ageing well. behind Cabernet sauvignon, distinctive peppery, meaty, olive character reminiscent of 2012 A hot vintage sauvignon Blanc, Merlot, the northern rhône, while Limarí is more about sleek blue that cooled down later 2009 Warm vintage Chardonnay, Carmenere and black fruit with floral hints and a generous flavour and on. Drink sooner not later. gave rich, ripe reds, many Syrah in Chile’s key regions texture. Coastal styles are particularly engaging, from the of which need drinking elqui 116ha, Limarí 399ha, fleshy yet savoury norm of san Antonio (a region with 2011 A long, dry up now. Aconcagua 250ha, significant diversity within it) to the wild herbs and gutsy vintage well suited to Casablanca 147ha, san fruit of Casablanca. Maipo has a natural generosity allied to syrah. some outstanding 2008 early-drinking Antonio 107ha, Maipo a characteristically firm structure. rapel tends to deliver a wines were made. with notable successes. 1,140ha, Cachapoal 845ha, riper, lusher style, while Maule reverts to a tangier but still Colchagua 2,31 ha, Curicó plush mode. The mountainous east and far south are still to 534ha, Maule 1,732ha be meaningfully explored for syrah but could provide yet delivering value – clearly evident in many of its syrah wines (source: sAG Catastro Vitícola Nacional 2012 & origo Chilean Wine more nuance to this picture. – also works in its favour when convincing drinkers to try regions Map 2014) There is a school of thought suggesting such diversity something new. It may not be the easiest sell but the risks causing confusion in what is an emergent category. quality, diversity and value undoubtedly available make it a DWWA Regional Chair for This may be true. however, such diversity also neatly category that merits attention, patience and support. Chile, Peter Richards MW, illustrates the potential for this naturally protean variety to The 2010 and 2011 vintages look to have produced some recently published his thrive in a landscape of bright sunshine and degraded of Chile’s finest syrahs yet, many of which are well worth Chile Wine Brief 2013 granite hillsides – and to satisfy many different market snapping up before they become more celebrated (and (available from www. Map:Maggie Nelson tastes in the process. Chile’s enviable reputation for pricey). They bode well for the future. susieandpeter.com) ➢ DECANTER • October 2 0 1 4 | 7 9 PANEL TASTING Chilean Syrah of in the middle; I don’t think that syrah is a Entry criteria: Outstanding 18.5–20pts (95–100pts) The results brilliant grape for Maipo, but it does do well. If producers and UK I’ve picked up on one general trend, it’s to make agents were invited A consistently strong tasting provided evidence of the variety of styles emerging, with our judges more drinkable wines. That may be a reflection of to submit their relishing recent improvements and looking forward to further experimentation, says Mark o’halleron the 2010 and 2011 vintages which are naturally latest-release cooler years, but I think the desire is there, which Chilean Shiraz/ is fantastic to see.’ Syrah. A maximum It was a sentiment shared by Tapia who of two wines per ‘ChILeAN syrAh hAs a clean bill of health,’ declared Dirceu ‘Syrah can and should be Chile’s The scores claimed that ‘the trend in Chile is for fresher fruit producer was Vianna Jr MW, when reflecting on this tasting; however, and less oak’. Vianna agreed, saying ‘The permitted and 88 wines tasted there was a caveat: ‘If you dig a little deeper, though, I best red grape, but it will need winemaking was very good. Many of the wines wines had to be a Casa Marín, Miramar Vineyard, Lo Abarca, would have a problem defining Chilean syrah if asked. The 3 are fresh and vibrant, with excellent drinkability, minimum of 85% of San Antonio 2010 positive is the diversity of regional styles, but it’s quite people to support it’ Peter Richards MW Outstanding plus they are picking earlier and the oak is being the variety. difficult to choose what to recommend to someone because pulled back,’ adding that he felt ‘some of the Decanter average score: 18.75/20pts (95+/100pts) the styles are so different; it’s a bit muddled.’ be something that’s gently bittersweet and savoury, and 10 quality and value for money is stunning’. Individual judges’ scores: Dirceu Vianna Jr MW 18.5 Peter Richards MW 19 ‘I definitely saw differences between the regions,’ agreed should slip down easy.’ Highly recommended As to the future, Vianna was hoping for more Patricio Tapia 18.5 Patricio Tapia. ‘We all concur that syrah from the north – ‘Personally, I would rather drink the wines from experimentation in the winemaking, such as £35.99 Wimbledon Wine Cellars Limarí, Choapa, elqui – tastes different from Casablanca or Casablanca and san Antonio, or from Limarí,’ was Tapia’s 53 using amphorae, whole-bunch fermentation and This small, family-run winery in the coastal reaches of san Antonio, just 4km Recommended san Antonio, which in turn tastes different from Colchagua take. ‘They are fresher, feel tighter, more nervous and co-fermentation. richards, meanwhile, felt that from the icy Pacific, pushes boundaries. It’s a contentious wine. Its almost or Cahapoal; there is definite regional character.’ there’s more electricity, whereas some from Maipo, rapel or 19 key was getting the merchants and importers on savage ruggedness is allied to a laser-like precision that can polarise tasters. ‘Are all these different styles a good or a bad thing?’ Maule felt flat. however, with the examples from the coast, Fair board – and staying on board – as the assorted But, with four years’ age, it is beginning to develop a peppery, savoury questioned Peter richards MW. ‘I’d argue it’s a good thing, you can get funkier smells which could scare people away styles of Chilean syrah began to clarify: ‘The perfume that sits beautifully with its lifted, almost ethereal finish. A wine although it doesn’t make things easier to understand. from these wines.’ 0 quality is there, but it’s a game of patience and that speaks eloquently of its variety, place and makers, Maria Luz and felipe Where I’m less sure is when we get into the warmer ‘There were very few duds, but san Antonio was the most Poor you need to bring people with you. Unfortunately Marín, who deserve credit for their audacity and ambition. heartlands of Colchagua and Cachapoal. I think there is interesting,’ said richards. ‘elqui and Limarí were also really the wine world moves quite slowly, but my call Dirceau Vianna Jr MW elegant and enticingly complex with notes of dark clearly a place in the market for these easier, more generous good; the latter has improved a lot as it’s a region where 3 would be for people who sell and love wine to Faulty fruits, earthy tones, fresh meat and attractive spiciness.