Structure in Wine Steiia Thiast
Structure in Wine steiia thiAst What is Structure? • So what is this thing, structure? It*s the sense you have that the wine has a well-established form,I think ofit as the architecture ofthe wine. A wine with a great structure will often remind me ofthe outlines of a cathedral, or the veins in a leaf...it supports, and balances the fiuit characteristics ofthe wine. The French often describe structure as the skeleton ofthe wine, as opposed to its flavor which they describe as the flesh. • Where does structure come firom? In white wines, it usually comes from alcohol or acidity; in red wines, it comes from a combination of acidity and tannin, a component in the grapes' skins and seeds. Thus, wines with a lot of tannin (like cabernet) also have a lot of structure. Beaujolais is made from gamay which does not have much tannin. As a result, Beaujolais can lack structure; it feels soft, flat or simple in the mouth (though its flavors can certainly still be attractive). • While structure is hard to articulate, you can easily taste or sense it —^and the lack of it. • Understanding structure is critical to understanding any ofthe ''powerful" red varieties: cabernet sauvignon, merlot, syrah, nebbiolo, tempranillo, and malbec, to name a few. I just don't think you can understand these wines unless you understand structure, and how it frames and focuses the powerful rush of fruit. It adds freshness, and a "lightness" to the density ofripe fiuit. Structure matters when pairing wine and food. Foods with a lot of structure themselves— like a meaty, thick steak-need wines with commensurate structure (like cabernet), or the food experience can dwarfthe wine experience.
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