WINTER 2020 FOOD PEOPLE BELLYING up Cater to More Than the Bros at the Bar
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FOOD FANATICS FOOD FOOD PEOPLE MONEY & SENSE PLUS Peru Now Bellying Up Less is More Critic’s Choice Charting a global course, More than bros at the bar, A money-saving, food waste Words to heed, page 16 page 49 checklist, page 66 page 54 Sharing the Love of Food—Inspiring Business Success ROLL SOUTH WINTER 2020 ROLL SOUTH GLOBAL TAKES LEAD THE WAY FOOD PEOPLE BELLYING UP Cater to more than the bros at the bar. 49 SPEAK EASY Los Angeles Times restaurant critic Winter 2020 Bill Addison on the most exciting USFoods.com/foodfanatics dining city in America. 54 ROAD TRIP! Trek through the Bourbon Trail. 58 Small business is no small task. MONEY & SENSE So Progressive offers commercial auto and business NOW THAT’S EATERTAINMENT! insurance that makes protecting yours no big deal. When diners want more than each other’s company. Local Agent | ProgressiveCommercial.com ON THE COVER 61 Mexican influences reach the South LESS IS MORE when sweet potatoes When it comes to food waste, and masa come together for collard it pays to be scrappy. green wrapped 66 tamales. Get the recipe on page 38. IN EVERY ISSUE TREND TRACKER What’s on the radar, at high alert or fading out? 46 FEED THE STAFF Revised tipping and service fee models address wage disparities. FOOD 52 DROP MORE ACID IHELP Housemade vinegars cut waste Text services provide diners and control costs. another way to order delivery. 4 69 PERU NOW PR MACHINE Peruvian cuisine charts a How to tranquilize the online trolls. multicultural course. 71 16 BEYOND THE PLATE COMEBACK CARBS To-go menus demand extra attention. Once maligned foods are flexing 73 their nutritional muscle and cheat- day appeal. I’LL DRINK TO THAT! 26 A modern take on pairing booze with the bean. 77 SOUL OF THE SOUTH The heritage of the past and present BY THE NUMBERS redefine a great American cuisine. Dive into functional foods. PHOTOGRAPHY BY EVA KOLENKO EVA BY PHOTOGRAPHY 36 80 Progressive Casualty Ins. Co. & Af liates. Business and Workers’ Compensation coverage provided and serviced by af liated and third party insurers. liated and third by af and serviced provided Compensation coverage Workers’ Business and liates. Af & Co. Casualty Ins. Progressive USFoods.com/foodfanatics | FOOD FANATICS 1 Your Winter 2019 Food Fanatics® OLD WORLD, magazine is here! It’s hard to believe our final issue of the year is already here! USFoods.com/foodfanatics We’ve covered dozens of great topics this year, thereby proving that there is no shortage of excitement, inspiration and evolution MEET ONTREND US FOODS ADVISORY BOARD President and Chief Executive Officer in the world of food. Pietro Satriano Chief Merchandising Officer Andrew Iacobucci Whether it’s a fresh take on Southern cuisine that has chefs Senior Vice President, Marketing everywhere clamoring for collard greens, or the multicultural Diane Hund influence found in increasingly popular Peruvian fare, this issue Vice President, Creative Jovo Balach brings you all the great ideas so you can start cooking up ways to Manager, Content Marketing add some excitement to your menus in the new year. Jasmine Jones CHEF CONTRIBUTORS/RESTAURANT OPERATION CONSULTANTS Steve Afflixio, Tampa, FL For inspiration, how about making vinegar work harder for you? Ed Butler, Knoxville, TN James Cochran, West Virginia From cocktails to chicken and everything in between, this pantry Robert D. Frye, Indianapolis staple is taking on new forms with homemade varieties – think Frankie Ruiz, Port Orange, FL Erin Gonzales, Plymouth, MN grapefruit, dill, honey and more – popping up on menus across Ryan Hicks, Eastern North Carolina Lance Reynolds, Phoenix the country. PUBLISHING PARTNER Prop Stylist And finally, evolution: carbs, once a dreaded word for many diners, Amy Paliwoda Content Chief have evolved into something no one can pass up. From housemade Laura Yee Feedback We welcome your comments. breads to pastas, chefs have taken control of the conversation by Creative Director Contact Food Fanatics at: Joline Rivera [email protected] presenting new forms of delicious carb-filled dishes that are rich in Managing Editor Contact Bite This Media at: protein, high in nutrients and bursting with flavor. Peter Gianopulos [email protected] Contributing Writers Unless otherwise specified, all Lisa Arnett correspondence sent to Food And nowhere is evolution more important than in the success Amber Gibson Fanatics is assumed for publication Alison Grant and becomes the copyright of your business. As always, the back third of the magazine is Jodi Helmer property of US Foods. Alicia Kennedy Liz Logan Advertising Information dedicated to helping you find new ways to Make It. From reducing Novid Parsi For rates and a media kit, contact Megan Rowe Jasmine Jones, (847) 720-2578 or food waste and navigating the world of online reviews, to the email [email protected]. Jeff Ruby latest on wages in the restaurant industry, these articles are sure Mike Sula Food Fanatics is the go-to source for the foodservice industry and Copy Editor anyone truly passionate about to give you something to think about as you plan to make your Natalie Jew food, food people and improving the bottom line. Issued quarterly business even stronger in 2020. ® Cover Photography Our Chef’s Line Bavarian Soft Pretzel is crafted from a and hand-delivered to readers, the Eva Kolenko magazine is a US Foods publication produced by Bite This Media. centuries-old Bavarian recipe, but don’t get it twisted: it’s Photographers Thank you for reading, and from all of us at US Foods®, have a Eva Kolenko For more information on the a hot item on today’s appetizer menus – especially when Frank Lawlor Food Fanatics program, visit wonderful holiday season. ® Sean McGill USFoods.com/foodfanatics. paired with Molly’s Kitchen Beer Cheese Dip, made from All rights reserved. © Food Stylist cheddar and Romano cheeses and a popular craft amber Adam Pearson We’ll see you next year, ale. Premium comfort food, served in a snap. About US Foods US Foods is one of America’s great food companies and a leading Chef’s Line Bavarian Soft Pretzel | APN 6680020 foodservice distributor, partnering with approximately 250,000 chefs, restaurateurs and foodservice operators to help their businesses Molly’s Kitchen Beer Cheese Dip | APN 4503294 succeed. With nearly 25,000 employees and more than 60 locations, US Foods provides its customers with a broad and innovative food offering and a comprehensive suite of e-commerce, technology and business solutions. US Foods is headquartered in Rosemont, Illinois, and generates approximately $25 billion in annual revenue. Discover more at usfoods.com. Andrew Iacobucci For more information or to order, visit usfoods.com Chief Merchandising Officer ® or contact your US Foods representative. US Foods® EXCLUSIVE 9300 W. Higgins Rd. Suite 500 Rosemont, IL 60018 (847) 720-8000 BRAND usfoods.com © 2019 US Foods, Inc. 09-2019-FOF-2019082208 / TASTE FOOD AND STAY SAFE Of the fermentation methods Housemade vinegar chefs have embraced, making is ready when the ingredients are VINEGAR is the easiest, fermented to the acidity of your DR P cheapest and most profitable. liking, so just taste O Instead of tossing overripe fruit, excess inventory, it during the leftover wines and food scraps, they can be used process. For optimal to create vinegars for little to no cost. results, chefs and “The variety is infinite,” says chef/author Jonathon experts say to heed Sawyer in his book, “House of Vinegar: The Power the following: of Sour, with Recipes.” “If you can dream of a type of vinegar, then you can make it.” Start with the For Sawyer, whose restaurants include The vinegar in a glass, Greenhouse Tavern and Noodlecat in Cleveland, the plastic or a vinegar journey began nearly 20 years ago with a wood barrel. simple red wine and beer vinegar that has evolved to more complex renditions, such as a signature umami Depending on the vinegar of mushrooms, Parmesan rinds, prosciutto ingredients, the and other ingredients. Here’s to dreaming big. contents need to MO E breathe, so cover R and secure the top with cheesecloth. HOW Low-acidic Housemade vinegars cut waste, control USES TOOLS BY THE GLASS ingredients need Any ingredient containing ethanol—such as beer, a jump start; use OF THE Champagne, cider, liqueur or wine—can be made into an aerator. costs and offer endless applications SALAD vinegar (Schnapps and cream soda; begonia flowers DRESSINGS VINEGAR and Gewurztraminer; cucumbers and vodka). Acidic Vinegar can be By MIKE SULA fruits, from strawberries to pineapple, also become pasteurized by Photography By EVA KOLENKO TRADE vinegar over time. heating it to 170 F. Food Styling By ADAM PEARSON PICKLING —Jonathon Sawyer, chef and vinegar expert Prop styling By AMY PALIWODA Though not BY THE BARREL necessary, a A hydrometer Russell Moore barrel ages wine to make vinegar. He hydrometer GLAZES to measure started with a vinegar he made 15 years ago while measures sugar sugar content working at Chez Panisse in Berkeley, California. That content, a ACID COCKTAILS vinegar inoculated a batch of fresh light-bodied red wine, refractometer A refractometer allowing the still-active Acetobacter in the old vinegar to measures alcohol to measure multiply and consume all the alcohol in the new juice. level and pH strips MARINADES alcohol level Aging it in oak barrels allows it to develop depth and determine acidity. body. Until he closed his restaurant Camino in Oakland, Store the vinegar PH strips to California, last year, Moore used wine left by guests and in a sterilized SEASONING determine acidity sample bottles from wine salespeople to make vinegar. container. 4 FOOD FANATICS | WINTER 2020 USFoods.com/foodfanatics | FOOD FANATICS 5 PRODUCE GRAPEFRUIT VINEGAR USES > At The Norseman Distillery in THAT Minneapolis, the Pamplemousse cocktail features “tehkeela,” grapefruit PRODUCES kombucha, grapefruit, grapefruit vinegar and grapefruit oleo.