PLUS page 54 Words to heed, Critic’s Choice Critic’s Less is More Less checklist, page 66 MONEY & SENSE MONEY A money-saving, waste page 49 Bellying Up Bellying FOOD PEOPLE FOOD More than bros at the bar,

Sharing the Love of Food—Inspiring Business Success Business of Food—Inspiring Sharing the Love

FOOD page 16 Now Peru Charting a global ,

GLOBAL TAKES LEAD THE WAY LEAD THE TAKES GLOBAL ROLL SOUTH SOUTH ROLL

FOOD FANATICS ROLL SOUTH WINTER 2020 FOOD PEOPLE BELLYING UP Cater to more than the bros at the bar. 49

SPEAK EASY Los Angeles Times restaurant critic Winter 2020 Bill Addison on the most exciting USFoods.com/foodfanatics dining city in America. 54

ROAD TRIP! Trek through the Bourbon Trail. 58

Small business is no small task. MONEY & SENSE So Progressive offers commercial auto and business NOW THAT’S EATERTAINMENT! insurance that makes protecting yours no big deal. When diners want more than each other’s company. Local Agent | ProgressiveCommercial.com ON THE COVER 61 Mexican influences reach the South LESS IS MORE when sweet potatoes When it comes to food waste, and masa come together for it pays to be scrappy. green wrapped 66 . Get the recipe on page 38. IN EVERY ISSUE TREND TRACKER What’s on the radar, at high alert or fading out? 46 FEED THE STAFF Revised tipping and service fee models address wage disparities. FOOD 52 DROP MORE ACID IHELP Housemade cut waste Text services provide diners and control costs. another way to order delivery. 4 69 PERU NOW PR MACHINE Peruvian charts a How to tranquilize the online trolls. multicultural course. 71 16 BEYOND THE PLATE COMEBACK CARBS To-go menus demand extra attention. Once maligned are flexing 73 their nutritional muscle and cheat- day appeal. I’LL DRINK TO THAT! 26 A modern take on pairing booze with the . 77 SOUL OF THE SOUTH The heritage of the past and present BY THE NUMBERS redefine a great . Dive into functional foods.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY EVA KOLENKO EVA BY PHOTOGRAPHY 36 80

Progressive Casualty Ins. Co. & Af liates. Business and Workers’ Compensation coverage provided and serviced by af liated and third party insurers. liated and third by af and serviced provided Compensation coverage Workers’ Business and liates. Af & Co. Casualty Ins. Progressive USFoods.com/foodfanatics | FOOD FANATICS 1 Your Winter 2019 Food Fanatics® OLD WORLD, magazine is here! It’s hard to believe our final issue of the year is already here! USFoods.com/foodfanatics We’ve covered dozens of great topics this year, thereby proving that there is no shortage of excitement, inspiration and evolution MEET ONTREND US FOODS ADVISORY BOARD President and Chief Executive Officer in the world of food. Pietro Satriano

Chief Merchandising Officer Andrew Iacobucci Whether it’s a fresh take on Southern cuisine that has chefs Senior Vice President, Marketing everywhere clamoring for collard greens, or the multicultural Diane Hund influence found in increasingly popular Peruvian fare, this issue Vice President, Creative Jovo Balach brings you all the great ideas so you can start up ways to Manager, Content Marketing add some excitement to your menus in the new year. Jasmine Jones

CHEF CONTRIBUTORS/RESTAURANT OPERATION CONSULTANTS Steve Afflixio, Tampa, FL For inspiration, how about making work harder for you? Ed Butler, Knoxville, TN James Cochran, West Virginia From cocktails to chicken and everything in between, this pantry Robert D. Frye, Indianapolis staple is taking on new forms with homemade varieties – think Frankie Ruiz, Port Orange, FL Erin Gonzales, Plymouth, MN grapefruit, dill, honey and more – popping up on menus across Ryan Hicks, Eastern North Carolina Lance Reynolds, Phoenix the country.

PUBLISHING PARTNER

Prop Stylist And finally, evolution: carbs, once a dreaded word for many diners, Amy Paliwoda Content Chief have evolved into something no one can pass up. From housemade Laura Yee Feedback We welcome your comments. to , chefs have taken control of the conversation by Creative Director Contact Food Fanatics at: Joline Rivera [email protected] presenting new forms of delicious carb-filled dishes that are rich in Managing Editor Contact Bite This Media at: protein, high in nutrients and bursting with flavor. Peter Gianopulos [email protected]

Contributing Writers Unless otherwise specified, all Lisa Arnett correspondence sent to Food And nowhere is evolution more important than in the success Amber Gibson Fanatics is assumed for publication Alison Grant and becomes the copyright of your business. As always, the back third of the magazine is Jodi Helmer property of US Foods. Alicia Kennedy Liz Logan Advertising Information dedicated to helping you find new ways to Make It. From reducing Novid Parsi For rates and a media kit, contact Megan Rowe Jasmine Jones, (847) 720-2578 or food waste and navigating the world of online reviews, to the email [email protected]. Jeff Ruby latest on wages in the restaurant industry, these articles are sure Mike Sula Food Fanatics is the go-to source for the foodservice industry and Copy Editor anyone truly passionate about to give you something to think about as you plan to make your Natalie Jew food, food people and improving the bottom line. Issued quarterly business even stronger in 2020. ® Cover Photography Our ’s Line Bavarian Soft is crafted from a and hand-delivered to readers, the Eva Kolenko magazine is a US Foods publication produced by Bite This Media. centuries-old Bavarian recipe, but don’t get it twisted: it’s Photographers Thank you for reading, and from all of us at US Foods®, have a Eva Kolenko For more information on the a hot item on today’s appetizer menus – especially when Frank Lawlor Food Fanatics program, visit wonderful holiday season. ® Sean McGill USFoods.com/foodfanatics. paired with Molly’s Dip, made from All rights reserved. © Food Stylist cheddar and Romano and a popular craft amber Adam Pearson We’ll see you next year, ale. Premium , served in a snap. About US Foods US Foods is one of America’s great food companies and a leading Chef’s Line Bavarian Soft Pretzel | APN 6680020 foodservice distributor, partnering with approximately 250,000 chefs, restaurateurs and foodservice operators to help their businesses Molly’s Kitchen Beer Cheese Dip | APN 4503294 succeed. With nearly 25,000 employees and more than 60 locations, US Foods provides its customers with a broad and innovative food offering and a comprehensive suite of e-commerce, technology and business solutions. US Foods is headquartered in Rosemont, Illinois, and generates approximately $25 billion in annual revenue. Discover more at usfoods.com. Andrew Iacobucci For more information or to order, visit usfoods.com Chief Merchandising Officer ® or contact your US Foods representative. US Foods®

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© 2019 US Foods, Inc. 09-2019-FOF-2019082208 / FOOD AND STAY SAFE Of the fermentation methods Housemade vinegar chefs have embraced, making is ready when the ingredients are VINEGAR is the easiest, fermented to the acidity of your DR P cheapest and most profitable. liking, so just taste O Instead of tossing overripe , excess inventory, it during the leftover and food scraps, they can be used process. For optimal to create vinegars for little to no cost. results, chefs and “The variety is infinite,” says chef/author Jonathon experts say to heed Sawyer in his book, “House of Vinegar: The Power the following: of Sour, with Recipes.” “If you can dream of a type of vinegar, then you can make it.” Start with the For Sawyer, whose restaurants include The vinegar in a glass, Greenhouse Tavern and Noodlecat in Cleveland, the plastic or a vinegar journey began nearly 20 years ago with a wood barrel. simple red and beer vinegar that has evolved to more complex renditions, such as a signature Depending on the vinegar of mushrooms, Parmesan rinds, prosciutto ingredients, the and other ingredients. Here’s to dreaming big. contents need to MO E breathe, so cover R and secure the top with cheesecloth.

HOW Low-acidic Housemade vinegars cut waste, control USES TOOLS BY THE GLASS ingredients need Any ingredient containing ethanol—such as beer, a jump start; use OF THE Champagne, cider, liqueur or wine—can be made into an aerator. costs and offer endless applications vinegar (Schnapps and cream soda; begonia flowers DRESSINGS VINEGAR and Gewurztraminer; cucumbers and vodka). Acidic Vinegar can be By MIKE SULA , from strawberries to , also become pasteurized by Photography By EVA KOLENKO TRADE vinegar over time. heating it to 170 F. Food Styling By ADAM PEARSON PICKLING —Jonathon Sawyer, chef and vinegar expert Prop styling By AMY PALIWODA Though not BY THE BARREL necessary, a A hydrometer Russell Moore barrel ages wine to make vinegar. He hydrometer GLAZES to measure started with a vinegar he made 15 years ago while measures sugar content working at in Berkeley, California. That content, a ACID COCKTAILS vinegar inoculated a batch of fresh light-bodied red wine, refractometer A refractometer allowing the still-active Acetobacter in the old vinegar to measures alcohol to measure multiply and consume all the alcohol in the new juice. level and pH strips MARINADES alcohol level Aging it in oak barrels allows it to develop depth and determine acidity. body. Until he closed his restaurant Camino in Oakland, Store the vinegar PH strips to California, last year, Moore used wine left by guests and in a sterilized SEASONING determine acidity sample bottles from wine salespeople to make vinegar. container.

4 FOOD FANATICS | WINTER 2020 USFoods.com/foodfanatics | FOOD FANATICS 5 PRODUCE GRAPEFRUIT VINEGAR USES > At The Norseman Distillery in THAT Minneapolis, the Pamplemousse cocktail features “tehkeela,” grapefruit PRODUCES kombucha, grapefruit, grapefruit vinegar and grapefruit oleo.

BANANA PEELS > Blue cobia, served at Michael Schwartz’s Tigertail + Mary, in BLUEBERRIES Miami, is paired with braised fennel, Just Vinegar It white anchovy and a citrus emulsion. CARROTS Manzano (chili) vinegar to accompany potatoes, Cotija cheese and avocado at Broken Spanish CELERY in Los Angeles

GINGER Chamomile vinegar to pickle chanterelles that Portland, Oregon private chef Sebastian Carosi includes on a cheese board or to cut the weight of smoked Gouda grits MIREPOIX Celery vinegar for a on a roast chicken with ORANGES braised celery, caramelized cauliflower, toasted pine nuts and golden raisins

RUBY RED Chili vinegar for whatever diners want at Phuc Yea in GRAPEFRUIT Miami, from summer rolls to smoked short rib

Dill vinegar for pickling green tomatoes that garnish STRAWBERRIES Turkish-style dumplings, black mint and burnt pecan at Petra & the Beast in Dallas

Strawberry vinegar to finish a for shortcake and BY THE BOOK: VINEGAR GURUS blueberry vinegar on rosemary-roasted porchetta at Until recently, reliable resources to help start Ravinia concepts in Highland Park, Illinois vinegar projects didn’t exist, but now a handful of new NEEDS A and updated books provide guidance and recipes. Sugar cane vinegar for the market fish dip that chef/ HELPING owner Miguel Trinidad serves at Maharlika in New York “House of Vinegar: The Power of Sour, with Recipes,” by Jonathon Sawyer (Ten Speed Press) HAND “Acid Trip: Travels in the World of Vinegar,” A WORD ABOUT YOUR MOTHER by Michael Harlan Turkell (Abrams) You don’t need one. One of the most persistent myths Foods low in sugar, about vinegar is that you have to start it with a float raft “The Noma Guide to Fermentation: Including koji, such as celery, of slimy-looking cellulose that forms as the bacterial kombuchas, shoyus, misos, vinegars, garums, require a fish byproduct of alcohol transforming into acetic acid. lacto-ferments, and black fruits and ,” tank aerator to “It’s very poetic to say to somebody, ‘I’m gonna give by Rene Redzepi and David Zilbur (Artisan) start the oxidation you a piece of my mother,’” says Brooklyn Kitchen’s that Acetobacter Harry Rosenblum. Although a mother does contain live “Vinegar Revival: Artisanal Recipes for Brightening needs to thrive and Acetobacter—and it can protect your vinegar from other Dishes and Drinks with Homemade Vinegars,” convert the alcohol microbes getting in—“really you just need raw vinegar, by Harry Rosenblum (Clarkson Potter) into acetic acid. because there’s enough bacteria in that.”

6 FOOD FANATICS | WINTER 2020 [HONEY VINEGAR USES]

> Brooke Williamson of Hudson House in Los Angeles uses honey for cheesy meatballs with crunchies and .

> Matthew Accarrino of SPQR in San Francisco makes honey vinegar gelee for honey panna cotta with whipped honey. Honey vinegar also spikes sorbetto and dressings.

> Honey vinegar brightens burrata with peaches, hibiscus, puffed and shiso at The Bellwether in Studio City, California.

Honey Vinegar Manhattan Chef/author Harry Rosenblum

3 ounces whiskey 1 ½ ounces sweet vermouth 1 ½ ounces dry vermouth 1 ½ ounces honey vinegar, recipe follows 1 cup crushed 2 to 4 maraschino cherries (preferably Luxardo)

Pour whiskey, vermouth and vinegar over ice. Shake or stir, strain and divide 2 coupe glasses.

Garnish each drink with a cherry. Makes 2 servings.

To make honey vinegar: Simmer 1 pound honey with ½ gallon water and ¼ grapefruit with flesh and rind cut into strips for a few minutes. Cool and strain into a sterilized jar. Add ¼ champagne yeast and 2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar; cover with cheesecloth and seal with a rubber band. Leave in a dark cool spot for 3 to 4 weeks, checking regularly to see that a “mother” is growing on the surface and mixture is mold-free. Check vinegar after 4 weeks by tasting for acidity. The mixture may take up to 3 months to fully convert to vinegar.

Strain the “mother” and bottle the vinegar, reserving the mother for another use. Use the vinegar immediately, or age for a year or more to mellow the flavors.

Adapted from Harry Rosenblum’s “Vinegar Revival: Artisanal Recipes for Brightening Dishes and Drinks with Homemade Vinegars,” Clarkson Potter.

8 FOOD FANATICS | WINTER 2020 USFoods.com/foodfanatics | FOOD FANATICS 9 [COCONUT VINEGAR USES]

> Chef Carlo Lamagna of Magna in Portland, Oregon, uses coconut vinegar for his chicken inasal and chicharrones.

> La Condesa in Austin, Texas, includes coconut vinegar to amp up topped with crab, apples and vinegar.

Chicken Inasal and Sinamak Chef/owner King Phojanakong Kuma Inn, New York

6 tablespoons coconut vinegar, plus extra for seasoning, recipe follows ¼ cup canola oil ¼ cup ¼ cup calamansi juice or lime juice 5 , crushed 2 tablespoons ginger, sliced 1 tablespoon brown sugar 1 stalk lemongrass, smashed and sliced 2 pounds chicken thighs, bone in Annatto oil, as needed

Combine all the ingredients except the chicken and annato oil. Mix well. Add chicken and marinate 4 hours or overnight, refrigerated.

Grill chicken on indirect heat for about 30 minutes, flipping after1 5 minutes. Baste with annatto oil. Drizzle with coconut vinegar. Makes 4 servings.

To make coconut vinegar: Combine 1 quart Chicken Inasal and coconut water with ¼ cup Thai sticky Sinamak from and 1 cup water in a sterilized jar. Cover with Kuma Inn in cheesecloth and seal with a rubber band. Leave New York. the jar in a cool, dark spot for 3 to 4 weeks.

USFoods.com/foodfanatics | FOOD FANATICS 11 [MALT VINEGAR USES] [RED WINE VINEGAR USES]

> Mike Bancroft of Sauce and >Cleveland chef/owner Jonathon Kitchen in uses malt vinegar Sawyer makes red wine vinegar and rice vinegar for charred Brussels with quality leftover wine. It’s a part sprout (See recipe, right). of the housemade XO sauce that’s used to amplify the umami quotient > Malt vinegar serves as the in , pizza and . for crispy corn and salt cod , an appetizer at Somerset > The acidity from the red wine Charred Brussels Sprout Giardiniera in Chicago. jus balances the flavors in a flat Chef Mike Bancroft iron steak with bacon, greens, Co-op Sauce, Sauce and Bread Kitchen, Chicago mushrooms and garlic puree at The Royal Tern in Charleston, 2 tablespoons plus 1 ½ cups, South Carolina. divided use 1 pound Brussels sprouts, stemmed and halved 1 cup malt vinegar 1 cup rice wine vinegar ½ cup water 2 tablespoons salt 5 bay 2 ounces garlic, chopped 2 tablespoons dried oregano 1 tablespoon black pepper, freshly ground 8 ounces celery, diced 8 ounces carrots, diced 8 ounces cured Moroccan olives, pitted and chopped 2 ounces fresh serrano chilies, sliced

Char and cook Brussels sprouts in a saute pan heated with 2 tablespoons olive oil over high heat; remove.

Bring vinegars, water and salt to a boil. Add bay leaves, garlic and oregano; remove from heat.

Pour mixture over the Brussels sprouts and remaining ingredients and let sit 1 hour. Top with 1 ½ cups olive oil. Makes about 5 servings.

To make malt vinegar: Leave stout in a rye barrel for 2 months. Cover bug hole with cheesecloth. n

Charred Brussels sprout giardiniera from Sauce and Bread Kitchen in Chicago.

12 FOOD FANATICS | WINTER 2020 USFoods.com/foodfanatics | FOOD FANATICS 13 California BUILD PROFITS WITH HISPANIC-STYLE

is the #1 producer of DAIRY PRODUCTS FROM CALIFORNIA Hispanic-style cheeses and cremas add authentic fl avor to recipes with Latin fl avor profi les. But don’t stop there! You can Hispanic-style dairy in thecount U.S. on these delicious, hard-working dairy products to add fl avor, value and even cost savings all across the menu. Here, from California, are some fresh ideas on how to use Hispanic-style dairy products all day, every day. If you use... Try... Jack or Cheddar Queso or 25+ CHEESE Cheese crumbles Queso Blanco Fresco VARIETIES: Farmers Cheese or Feta Queso Fresco fresh, melting & hard Fresh Mozzarella Panela CHEESE PROFILES: Very mild Part-skim Mozzarella Oaxaca to strong, salty, spicy & nutty Ricotta Requeson Use in place of : Provolone Asadero sour cream or crème Parmesan or Asiago Queso Añejo or Cotija fraîche Gouda Menonita I want to...... BE ER MY ...EXPAND ...FEATURE ...O ER ...GO FOR ...RAISE MY KID’S ON-TREND VEGETARIAN GRAB & GO THE BAR MENU PRESENTATIONS OPTIONS (MENU)

Ethnic Breakfast Updated Kid‘s Cast Iron Plant- All-day Innovative Anytime Favorites Mini Skillet Forward Snacking Appetizers For a mild fl avor, add Try Oaxaca as pizza Try Cotija cheese in Top Sprinkle Cotija cheese Serve a seasonal Queso Fresco to omelets cheese for added fl avor. baked gnocchi for a with Queso Añejo or on popcorn for a snack watermelon and or egg scrambles. The Use Queso Quesadilla in lighter texture and Cotija for a mellow with extra umami. heirloom salad texture will soften, Mac & Cheese for a mild, elevated fl avor. Top with nutty alternative to O– er with with Queso Fresco without melting. creamy fl avor. Oaxaca and Crema. Parmesan. seasonal moles or in lieu of Feta. Top avocado toast with Fry Panela cheese Bread and deep-fry salsas, drizzled with Replace Parmesan with crumbled Panela or on the griddle for a cubes of Oaxaca to Crema and served with Cotija in Caesar salads for Queso Blanco cheeses caramelized color with make warm cheese a fl ight of mezcals. a mild, nutty fl avor. for a rich, complex a soft texture. Add to croutons for salads. fl avor profi le. any stir-fry for a unique fl avor combination.

For more ideas, recipes, and information on how to buy California dairy products, Use visit RealCaliforniaMilk.com/Foodservice. Peru Now CHARTS A MULTICULTURAL COURSE

By PETER GIANOPULOS Photography by EVA KOLENKO Food Styling by ADAM PEARSON Prop Styling by AMY PALIWODA

Get the recipe for tuna tiradito on page 24.

FOOD FANATICS 17 His play on a classic butifarra includes seco de cordero (cilantro lamb with jamon da pais (a Peruvian country ham carrots, peas and ). Since fillings are ❱ rubbed with annatto oil) and already made for dinner, the Think of (peppery ) plus a honeyed are especially profitable. “Lonche is built twist: sweet potatoes. Ramirez also offers for people who live a much faster lifestyle,” a Peruvian breakfast biscuit layered with says Montoya. “They want something to eat emerging fontina, egg and huacho sausage made from on the run but want it to be homemade, not pork shoulder fatback and aji panca peppers. another Big Mac.” Peruvian fare “Peruvian food was developed mostly by poor people,” says Ramirez, “so don’t be MIX AND MATCH -Style Calamari like the recent Nordic food renaissance— afraid to use off cuts. If you can execute Few chefs have done more to elevate Chef Tom Berry only with exponentially more mainstream them, they can be really profitable.” Peruvian fare than chef Gaston Acurio, Ruka, Boston appeal and widespread potential. who encourages his disciples to cross- The Peruvian table is set with flavors that CHANNEL AND POTATOES pollinate Peruvian fare with local . At 2 cups American diners are already familiar with: At the Pan-Latin TORO Kitchen in La Mar at the Mandarin Oriental in Miami, 2 cups flour Smoky, fruit-forward peppers, richly spiced Snowmass Village, Colorado, mountain- Chef Diego Oka makes Mexican-inspired ½ pound sliced Point Judith calamari, thinly hams and sausages and citrusy marinades. inspired Peruvian comfort foods are moles with Japanese and Peruvian sliced, tubes and tentacles “That’s what makes Peruvian food so trending, in part because skiers will ingredients and tenderizes with 1 cup buttermilk approachable—it doesn’t feel foreign to spring for carb-heavy dishes they’ve never —a sweet Peruvian fermented Flavorless oil, as needed for frying most people,” says Peter Platt, the owner of encountered. Chef Jay McCarthy sticks corn cider. 4 ounces leche de tigre, recipe follows Andina in Portland, Oregon. with the staples but leans on his saucing “The cider gives the dishes a bit of 2 ounce , melted Peruvian cooking has been shaped by skills. “Everyone wants unadulterated sweetness—almost like a vanilla flavor,” 2 tablespoons green onion, sliced diverse food cultures, including Native foods and clean flavors,” he says. “And that’s he says. He converted a classic achupado 2 tablespoons cilantro, chopped Andean, Japanese, Spanish, Chinese, precisely what Peruvian cooking provides.” made with river prawns, rice, egg and 2 tablespoons serrano chilies, thinly sliced Italian and African, while influenced His chicken and potatoes is draped Peruvian black mint into a dry powder, and fried by vastly different climates: - in a huancaina sauce (a Peruvian fondue sprinkling it over bucatini along with Aji salt, recipe follows, as needed rich coastlines, rugged mountains and made with panella cheese, evaporated Peruvian , queso fresco and a tomato- 2 tablespoons bonito humid rainforests. and saltine crackers), while his poached based aji panca sauce. The unbridled With a foundation of familiar tastes in Spanish octopus is topped with three novelty of these dishes makes them Combine ; set aside. In a large bowl, place, borrowing from the Peruvian pantry colorful —an aji amarillo , bestsellers, even at $33 for the pasta and combine calamari and buttermilk, allowing to soak gives riffing a head start. According to the a -habanero sauce and cilantro $59 for the short rib. for a minute; drain and toss in the flour mixture, research firm Technomic, 53% of diners puree. “Peruvian peppers work well in the “Peruvian food is so versatile,” says chef shaking off excess. say they haven’t tried Peruvian fare but winter months,” he says. “If you cook them Tom Berry of Ruka in Boston. “You can would like to, making now the time to join right, it’s like roasting peppers instead of easily keep the spirit of the dish while Deep fry calamari in preheated 400 F oil until the Peruvian revolution. chestnuts over the open fire.” adding your own local touch.” golden crispy, about 1 to 2 minutes. Drain, transfer to a bowl and toss with leche de tigre, butter, SPEAK SANGUCHES BUILD A LONCHE PROGRAM green onion, cilantro, fried serranos and salt. Sanguches—meaty but richly dressed In Peru, restaurants fill the normally Peruvian served on airy pan fallow period between and dinner Plate and garnish with bonito flakes. Makes frances rolls—are poised to have a banh mi with lonche offerings (“too late for lunch, 2 servings. moment, becoming a must-try . too early for dinner”). Chef Erik Ramirez built a successful Miguel Montoya and his wife, Iole Revilla, To make aji amarillo salt: Combine 1 cup sanguche concept at Llamita in New of Panca in Oceanside, California, found kosher salt with ¼ cup ground aji amarillo and York, after noticing young diners in Peru they also click with busy professionals and 1 tablespoon ground black pepper. Mix well. were ordering sanguches for lunch. Pan time-strapped flyers heading to the airport. frances rolls are hard to source, so Ramirez They offer Peruvian leek tarts and stuffed To make leche de tigre: Combine and blend the recommends a Portuguese water roll. quinoa cakes but found the most success following until smooth: 1 cup each lemon and lime Lighter breads make sanguches less filing, with empanadas. Dusted with powdered juice, ¼ cup , ¼ cup white , ¾ cup a draw for urban crowds, but their unique sugar, they’re stuffed with meats usually sugar, 2 ounces sliced garlic, 2 tablespoons each meats and allow Ramirez to charge served as entrees, like aji de cordero (a aji amarillo paste and fish sauce and 1 tablespoon a higher price ($15 each). Parmesan chicken in a pepper sauce) and yuzu kosho. Makes about 30 ounces.

USFoods.com/foodfanatics | FOOD FANATICS 19 Committed to Category Leadership

Get the recipe for Peruvian- style pork belly-wrapped tomatoes from Sen Sekana on page 24.

© 2019 Chicken of the Sea Frozen Foods USFoods.com/foodfanatics | FOOD FANATICS 21 A Peruvian tomato and rocoto dip can reinvent your salsa.

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© 2019 US Foods, Inc. 09-2019-FOF-2019082208 22 FOOD FANATICS | WINTER 2020 Tuna Tiradito, Serrano-cilantro, Mugifuji Pork Belly-Wrapped Passion fruit and Jicama Tomato with Black ™ Chef/owner Stephanie Izard the nikkei Sesame Garlic Sauce Cabra, Chicago Chef Mina Newman revolution Sen Sakana, New York 4 cups cilantro

¹⁄3 cup Kewpie or Japanese-style 1 ¹⁄3 cups garlic, minced

¹⁄3 cup extra-virgin olive oil For years, Nikkei-style cuisine—which ½ cup vegetable oil ® ¹⁄3 cup serrano chilies, seeded and chopped applies Japanese techniques to ¹⁄3 cup Japanese black garlic snacks gone simple 2 tablespoons poblano chili, seeded Peruvian ingredients—was unheard of ¹⁄3 cup black sesame puree ¾ cup lime juice, freshly squeezed outside of Peru. That changed when 2 tablespoons tamari 2 teaspoons salt Nikkei concepts started landing in 6 cherry tomatoes 8 ounces -grade tuna New York and California over the last 2 limes, juiced 3 ounces jicama, diced small few years. Kosher salt and freshly ground black 2 ounces passion fruit Nikkei, the food of Japanese migrants, pepper to taste Microgreens, to garnish not the Japanese stock exchange, has 6 slices Mugifuji pork belly, thinly sliced and immense potential given the American halved vertically Blend cilantro, mayonnaise, olive oil and chilies palate’s love of big, bold flavors. 6 bamboo skewers, soaked in water until almost smooth, leaving bits of cilantro. Peruvian ingredients essentially amplify Season with lime juice and salt; set aside. the more subtle flavors of gentler Mash garlic into a paste using a mortar and pestle. Japanese fare. Consider the following: Add to a saute pan heated with oil and cook on low Slice tuna ¼-inch thick on a bias and fan out on heat until dark brown. Remove from heat. 2 plates. Drizzle cilantro-chili sauce on top and TIRADITOS / Think of a tiradito as a garnish with jicama, passion fruit and microgreens. marinated that’s been blasted Puree Japanese black garlic until smooth Makes 2 servings. with South American flavors. At and combine with garlic oil, black sesame Kaiyo in San Francisco, chef Michelle puree and tamari; set sauce aside. Charred Tomato Smoked Rocoto Dip Matthews laces scallops in a passion- Chef Mina Newman fruit leche de tigre sauce and a sweet Toss tomatoes with lime juice; season with salt Sen Sakana, New York potato puree and offers with and pepper. Evenly wrap 2 pork belly slices different dipping sauces, including around each tomato and thread on to skewers. 9 large plum tomatoes spicy aji rocoto and guava, and a nut 3 tablespoons canola oil milk with . Grill on high heat for a few minutes until the pork Kosher salt and freshly ground black belly is cooked. To plate, smear the sauce on a pepper, as needed / Skewers are gently place and top with 3 skewers. Makes 2 servings. n 2 ²⁄3 cups white , diced roasted on a robata grill over 5 cloves garlic, chopped Japanese binchon coals as they US Foods Item #: 8555654 US Foods Item #: 5230027 US Foods Item #: 8410564 ¼ cup roasted garlic oil are in , but chef Mina Newman 4 teaspoons usukuchi Yamasa soy sauce of Sen Sakana in New York wraps

¹⁄3 cup smoked rocoto proteins around cremoso cheese ¼ cup lime juice (similar in texture to mozzarella) or 2 tablespoons white marinated tomatoes. Baked, never fried. Root vegetable chips, as needed it up / At Ruka in Boston, chef If you offer these items, try the Peruvian Toss tomatoes with canola oil, season with salt Tom Berry integrates East Coast versions to differentiate your menu. Simple ingredients. and pepper and char under the broiler or grill staples with Peruvian street food. All it until dark, approximately 15 minutes; cool and takes, he says, is one familiar element Sashimi / Tiraditos No preservatives. pass through a food mill. to draw diners into the unknown. His Hefty sandwiches / Sanguches smashes together Boston Saute onion, garlic and garlic oil until soft; hot dogs with sauced togarashi french Skewered meat / puree. Combine onion garlic mixture with fries, while his Lima-style calamari is Rotisserie chicken / Pollo la brasa tomatoes, soy sauce, rocoto, lime juice and crowned with a garlicky leche de tigre white miso. Serve with root vegetable chips. sauce and hot peppers in a Nikkei play / Chaufa Makes about 48 ounces dip. on Rhode Island-style calamari. Stir-fry / Call your PepsiCo Foodservice Sales Rep today! Learn more about adding bare® to your assortment. 24 FOOD FANATICS | WINTER 2020 OSTRACIZED FOODS ARE FLEXING THEIR NUTRITIONAL MUSCLE AND CHEAT- DAY APPEAL By AMBER GIBSON Photography by EVA KOLENKO Food Styling by ADAM PEARSON Prop Styling by AMY PALIWODA Comeback Carbs

Get this toasted farro mafaldini recipe with earthy mushrooms and truffle butter on page 34.

26 FOOD FANATICS | WINTER 2020 USFoods.com/foodfanatics | FOOD FANATICS 27 1. ROLL THE ... 3. 2. CONFIT THE SHRIMP... 3. ASSEMBLE THE INGREDIENTS.

❱ -dense foods saffron and as well as compound are getting a new life. But like all things , like giardiniera and port wine. banished by diet crazes that return to the fold, they don’t look the same. SHOW AND TELL Pasta and bread, ostracized by the Bobby Schaffer’s fine dining background popularity of low-carb diets and branded as a pastry chef inspires Lost Larson, his as nutritionally inferior, are cutting their neighborhood bakery-cafe in Chicago. carb load while bulking up on protein-rich Customers can watch workers milling grains. Pasta made in-house with farro flour while staff share information on the or quinoa, bread fortified with and benefits of baked goods made with organic kamut as well as nonwheat are whole grains and freshly milled flour, appearing more often, substantiating the including how his fermented grains can National Restaurant Association’s 2019 make bread easier to digest. It’s the kind of forecast on top trends. In addition, better- experience that enhances the eye-catching for-you grains can be fermented, adding menu and creates a social media following. Red Fife and Spelt with Tomato new depths of flavor. Sandwiches are prepared in the Chile Marmalade, Shrimp Confit, Diners, chefs say, get excited when they Scandinavian style, served open face on a Manchego and Shaved Creminis see pasta and bread that’s unique and slice of bread. Options include lingonberry Chef/owner Jonathan Brooks different. While 45% of Americans say jam, radish and dill on rye or a ’nduja Beholder, Indianapolis they would order healthier options, 40% gianduja with pumpkin seeds, ricotta and Combine tomatoes, lemons, shallots, see dining out as a treat and order what poached egg on pumpkin seed kelp bread. 4 large tomatoes, peeled, deseeded, chilies, ¼ cup sugar, honey, rosemary, salt and they want regardless of health, according His handmade pastas often rely on nutty roughly chopped pepper and simmer 2 hours over low heat, to research firm Technomic. Sophisticated spelt and spicy rye. The spiciness of rye, he 3 Meyer lemons, quartered lengthwise, stirring occasionally; cool tomato marmalade. pasta and bread programs, which are says, complements wintery flavors, such thinly sliced becoming more prevalent, satisfy both: as squash and bulkier butter sauces. Plus, 2 shallots, brunoised Meanwhile, combine ½ cup warm water, yeast diners following specialty diets, such as the rye dough produces a soft and 2 jalapenos, deseeded, thinly sliced and remaining 1 teaspoon sugar and whisk until keto or paleo, and everyone else—cheat silky texture that’s not as chewy as other 1 poblano chili, roasted, deseeded, creamy; set aside. In stand mixer fitted with a day or not. flours, making it a more pleasurable texture. finely chopped dough hook, combine flours and add yeast mix, Beholder in Indianapolis also sees the 1 Anaheim chili roasted, deseeded, yogurt, 1 tablespoon oil and rosemary. Knead, 10 BREAKOUT BREADS draw and benefit of cutting carbs from finely chopped minutes; let stand at room temperature, 1 hour. Diners at Steadfast in Chicago are traditional breads. Chef/owner Jonathan ¼ cup sugar, plus 1 teaspoon, divided use Divide into 4 to 6 balls and let stand 15 minutes. apparently flipping off the low-carb trend: Brooks makes a naan-style bread by ¼ cup honey Roll naan dough into oblong or oval shape on Nearly 90% of tables order pastry chef fermenting, dehydrating and then grinding 1 tablespoon rosemary, chopped floured work service and fry in neutral oil on high Chris Teixeira’s high-profit-margin bread red fife berries into flour. It’s Generous pinch kosher salt and black pepper heat, about 1 minute per side. board. For $12, they get six specialty combined with spelt to make a dough that’s ¼ ounce yeast breads, three housemade butters, three grilled and topped with pink shrimp confit 1 cup flour Spread tomato marmalade on naan, equally divide infused oils and three types of pickles. and tomato-chili marmalade. “The bright, ¾ cup spelt flour shrimp and manchego on top. Cover with shaved Since Teixeira oversees a bakery spicy, acidic marmalade is what ties the ¼ cup fermented red fife mushrooms; season with extra-virgin olive oil and operation that’s under the same umbrella ingredients together and makes this dish ½ cup active Greek yogurt flaky salt. Makes 4 to 6 naan, depending on size. as Steadfast, The Fifty/50 Group’s West work,” Brooks says. Oil, as needed, neutral flavor Town Bakery, he has the economies of scale “I do think that people trying to avoid Rosemary, chopped, as needed To make shrimp confit: Combine 2 cups oil, 6 bay to experiment for the bread board. The traditional carbs are more inclined to Shrimp confit, recipe follows leaves, 1 small bunch thyme, 1 halved garlic bulb, latest types include purple potato bread order something like this,” he says. “I am 6 ounces aged manchego, shaved zest of 2 lemons and ½ tablespoon red chili flakes that’s as soft as a steamed bao bun, a subtly wonderfully surprised that most times our 5 cremini mushrooms, thinly shaved and simmer on low for 45 minutes. Pour directly floral lavender pretzel and a fermented more esoteric menu items are some of the Extra-virgin olive oil, as needed over 1 pound peeled and deveined Key West pink bread. They accompany oils such as garlic best sellers.” Flaky salt, as needed shrimp; allow to come to room temperature.

28 FOOD FANATICS | WINTER 2020 USFoods.com/foodfanatics | FOOD FANATICS 29 Making made easy.

So you can go HOT AND PUFFY With Saba in , and most recently, Safta in Denver, chef-owner Alon beyond the Shaya has built two modern Israeli concepts anchored by wood-fired pita made to order. Hot and puffy housemade bread is a star at many other concepts, such as Bavel in Los expected. Angeles and Salam in Seattle. Three for $21 or five for $35 salatim “salads” offered at Saba and Safta include koosa (zucchini, yogurt, sunflower and Pillsbury™ Biscuits offer freezer to mint) and lutenitsa (roasted eggplant, peppers, tomato and garlic), and don’t oven simplicity, menu versatility, need to be eaten with the accompanying and scratch like quality your hot out-of-the-oven pita. But it’s common that guests request extra ones. Same for What’s 84% patrons will love the $10 to $20 hummus options, such as Brussels sprouts, spicy chilies, caramelized Good onion and black garlic; and soft-cooked egg, grilled scallion, za’atar and mint. For You At lunch, entree salads aren’t a focus, VEGETABLES but sandwiches get play at Saba and Safta. Pita wraps around ingredients such as labneh, grated tomato and 78% for chicken malawach and matbucha and The importance za’atar for Bulgarian lamb . “I love of revamping layering lots of flavors on top of a piece of bread and pasta pita,” Shaya says. offerings— ORGANIC healthier by way NO VEGGING FOR VEGETABLES At PharmTable in San Antonio, chef of accompanying If the crowds are any indication, Elizabeth Johnson’s kale pizza with tomato ingredients or 71% watchers will pay extra to swap out cashew sauce is served on a quinoa crust stand-ins, such noodles for lower carb but vegetable-based made with almond flour instead of prized as vegetables alternatives. At Boke Bowl in Portland, Italian 00 flour. “The crust is a flat dough— and high-protein Oregon, chef Patrick Fleming charges $3 to flexible, soft and very filling,” Johnson grains—are HIGH IN PROTEIN substitute shirataki noodles for traditional says. “It feels more substantial than a shown in a recent noodles or rice. The thin, translucent sweet cauliflower crust.” Technomic, Inc., potato noodles are made from the Johnson wanted to develop a grain-free survey. 52% yam imported from Japan. “They are soft crust with complete proteins, so she cross- and have less bite to them than traditional utilized an ingredient used in her tamales How Diners noodles; they’re more like glass to drive down costs. “We sell a lot of meat, Define Healthy: noodles,” Fleming says. “We have a lot of because this is Texas,” Johnson says. “But GLUTEN-FREE health-conscious diners who come in for a the beauty of this pizza is that there is no salad but end up with a ramen bowl because need for meat because the quinoa provides of the availability of the yam noodles.” a complete amino protein.” For pizza, quinoa—with its high-carb, 41% high-protein profile—is giving cauliflower ALL SHAPES AND SIZES competition as a base for alternative crusts, Specialty diets—starting with Atkins in the especially among those looking for an extra ’90s and most recently with Whole 30—

boost for an active lifestyle. have singlehandedly altered menus across DAIRY-FREE BY FRANK LAWLOR IMAGE Do more with Pillsbury™ Biscuits by visiting www.generalmillscf.com USFoods.com/foodfanatics | FOOD FANATICS 31 Get the recipe for this open- faced ‘nduja gianduja sandwich on page 34. USFoods.com/foodfanatics | FOOD FANATICS 33 Toasted Farro Mafaldini alla Funghi and Truffle Butter Inspired by Chef/owner Karen Akunowicz Fox & the Knife, Boston NEARLY 90 PERCENT OF

10 ounces farro flour DINERS ORDER THE ($12) MASHED 3 ounces flour, plus extra for dusting Pinch kosher salt BREAD BOARD. 2 eggs —Chef Chris Teixeira at Steadfast 2 egg yolks in Chicago 1 to 2 tablespoons water 1 teaspoon olive oil MADE EASY 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 6 ounces porcini mushrooms, sliced 6 ounces cremini mushrooms, sliced dayparts and concepts. Some operators say 3 cloves garlic, minced pasta entrees have taken the biggest hit 1 small shallot, minced while others argue that pasta eaters ¼ cup red wine ‘Nduja Gianduja live in the closet. Regardless, chefs are 1 ¼ cup heavy cream Open-Faced Sandwich making room in their housemade pasta 1 sprig oregano, leaves only, chopped Chef/owner Bobby Schaffer programs for high protein grains and 4 ounces truffle butter Lost Larson, Chicago more vegetables. Kosher salt, to taste At Milwaukee’s Tre Rivali, executive Freshly ground black pepper, to taste 8 ounces pumpkin seeds, toasted chef Heather Terhune dedicates space on 3 ounces pecorino 8 ounces 70% dark chocolate, melted her Mediterranean menu to handmade , leaves only, chopped, as needed 1 cup fresh ricotta pasta, including carrot gnocchi with 1 teaspoon chives, chopped rabbit sausage, pea shoots, carrots and Combine flours and salt in a large bowl 1 teaspoon parsley, chopped rabbit demi. At Fnb in Scottsdale, Arizona, and make a well at the center. Whisk together 1 teaspoon lemon zest chef Charleen Badman gives the carb a eggs, yolks, water and olive oil and pour Kosher salt, as needed healthier status by including pumpkin into the well. Mix by hand, and when the dough 1 farm egg noodles with grilled Rocky Point wild comes together begin kneading. If the dough 1 slice pumpkin-seed kelp bread, toasted shrimp, , slaw and fish sauce. seems too dry, add water. Use extra farro flour if 4 pickled , your choice and recipe The handmade pasta at Fox & the Knife it is too wet. Knead for 10 minutes. Wrap in plastic 1 teaspoon toasted sunflower seeds Your back-of-house time is precious. Take some of it back in Boston is a stand out on an already and set aside to rest for 1 to 2 hours, or up Micro herbs, to garnish with Cross Valley Farms® Boil-In-Bag Homestyle Mashed impressive menu, evidenced by early to 24 hours in the fridge. Roll out dough pasta Potatoes. Prepare creamy, delicious, traditional homestyle accolades including designation as a 2019 to about ¹⁄8-inch thick, using flour for dusting if Grind pumpkin seeds until smooth with chocolate best new restaurant from Eater after needed, and feed through the pasta machine. to make gianduja. Chill to firm. potatoes fast and easy – and then decide what to do with all opening a few months earlier. that extra time on your hands. Saffron is infused into the pasta dough for Heat oil in a large saute pan and saute mushrooms Combine ricotta with chives, parsley and zest. on high to brown, about 5 minutes. Add garlic and Season with salt. Prepare a soft-boiled egg. chef Karen Akunowicz’s take on spaghetti Cross Valley Farms Boil-In-Bag Homestyle Mashed Potatoes | APN 7488174 and clams, resonating with a clean, distinct shallots, reduce heat to medium and saute for 5 scent of the ocean. The least likely star, more minutes. Increase heat, add wine, allow it To compile, spread about 3 tablespoons ‘nduja For more information or to order, visit usfoods.com to absorb and add chicken stock. Saute for a few on the bread followed by 2 tablespoons ricotta. however, is the mafaldini made with ® toasted farro. Its nutty flavor paired with minutes, add cream, oregano and parsley and Top with pickled grapes and sunflower seeds. or contact your US Foods representative. EXCLUSIVE mushrooms and truffle butter exemplifies reduce mixture by half. Stir in butter and cook Place poached egg on center of toast, then using simplicity. mushrooms through; season with . a peeler, scrape a few slices of the gianduja over BRAND It may not seem like a cheat day, but it Boil pasta for a few minutes, drain and toss with the sandwich. Garnish with micro herbs. Makes tastes like one. n sauce, cheese and parsley. Makes 2 to 4 servings. 1 sandwich with leftover ricotta and gianduja. BY FRANK LAWLOR IMAGE

© 2019 US Foods, Inc. 09-2019-FOF-2019082208 34 FOOD FANATICS | WINTER 2020 Get the recipe for a Southern take on tamales on page 38.

Soul of the

South

THE HERITAGE OF THE PAST AND PRESENT REDEFINE A GREAT AMERICAN CUISINE

By NOVID PARSI Photography by EVA KOLENKO Food Styling by ADAM PEARSON Prop Styling by AMY PALIWODA

36 FOOD FANATICS | WINTER 2020 USFoods.com/foodfanatics | FOOD FANATICS 37 Just their foods with ingredients indigenous Alabama Tamales Cured Duck Breast to the South.” Recently, the Southern Chef David Bancroft with Rice tent has expanded, allowing chefs to Acre and Bow & Arrow, Auburn, Alabama Chef Sean Brock put explore foods of migrant populations with incredible depth. 55 grams Calabrian hot pepper powder Four 8-ounce skin-on, bone-in Muscovy That’s the approach chef Vishwesh 55 grams chili powder duck breast Bhatt is taking at Currence’s restaurant 24 grams salt Kosher salt, as needed more Snackbar. Bhatt, who won this year’s 17 grams freshly ground black pepper 3 cups water Award for Best Chef in the 17 grams dried oregano 1 cup Carolina Gold rice South, smears green on catfish 17 grams ground cumin 1 fresh bay butter sandwiches and gives creamed collard 7 grams ground cloves 1 tablespoon canola oil greens an Indian profile with cumin, 7 grams ground Freshly ground black pepper sumac, green chilies and housemade 10 cloves garlic, minced ¼ ounce firm ’s milk cheese, grated paneer. The latter has the consistency of 1 ¼ cup distilled white vinegar 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice on collards but the spiciness of Indian saag. 3 tablespoons water Duck jus, as needed That was the golden rule for Southern chefs Once Bhatt started using Indian 1 tablespoon vegetable oil of a certain age who reduced the region’s influences, Currence says that “interest 5 ½ pounds boneless pork butt, cut into Liberally season the duck breasts with salt. Place complex cuisine to the four b’s: butter, in Snackbar exploded,” in part because ¾-inch pieces on a rack set over a nonreactive baking dish and bacon, and more butter. “people love a narrative that comes with 3 cups masa refrigerate, uncovered, for 72 hours. At service, It’s no longer true—and maybe never their food.” 1 large sweet potato, baked and peeled bring to room temperature. Meanwhile, combine was. “That’s not what Southern food is 1 cup lard the water and rice in a saucepan with the bay about,” says John Currence, chef/owner Your Shrimp Could Use Some New “Grits” 2 tablespoons paprika leaf and salt, and bring to a simmer, stirring, over of City Grocery Restaurant Group in At Garland in Raleigh, chef and co-owner 1 ½ tablespoons chili powder medium heat. Reduce the heat to low and cook Oxford, Mississippi. Cheetie Kumar serves a Southern spin 1 tablespoon salt the rice, stirring frequently to prevent sticking, As the South experiences an influx of on the Indian dish , a thick porridge Whole collard greens, about 20 leaves cooking until tender, about 20 minutes; set aside immigrants and transplants, chefs continue typically eaten for breakfast. Instead of and keep warm. to be inspired by the region’s rich history traditional roasted semolina or rice flour, Combine chili powders, salt, pepper, oregano, of ingredients and foods brought by people Kumar folds in Southern ingredients, cumin, cloves and coriander. Add garlic, vinegar, Heat canola oil in a cast-iron skillet over medium from other cultures—from Africans of including local stone-ground grits water and vegetable oil and fold pork into spice heat. Pat duck breasts dry with paper towels and centuries past to more recent additions seasoned with leaves, ginger and mix. Cure overnight; process into chorizo using season with pepper. Place breasts in the skillet from India, Vietnam and Eastern Europe. garlic, along with coconut oil-poached small grinder plate; refrigerate until ready to use. skin side down and sear until golden and crispy and cathead biscuits shrimp and a sauce made with roasted hot and most of the subcutaneous has rendered, will always be favorites, but the real buzz and sweet peppers. This take on shrimp Mix together masa, sweet potato, lard, paprika, 10 to 12 minutes. Turn the breasts, transfer the is building around reinterpretations of and grits can be topped with a crispy okra chili powder and salt; knead lightly into dough. skillet to a preheated 350 F oven, and roast for classics that would confuse traditionalists. garnish seasoned with masala, a about 10 minutes, until inserted thermometer Collard green ramen? Indian-style shrimp traditional Indian spice blend. Diners are To build the tamales, shape masa into four reads 130 F; rest 5 minutes. and grits? Southern rice ? drawn to its flavor—creamy, spicy and a separate 4-ounce patties and place one on a “Southern chefs are embracing what little sweet due to the fresh corn—and collard leaf. Add 2 ounces chorizo mix and roll To plate, carve the duck breasts into slices about it means to be a Southerner—that the subtly reminded of childhood comfort collard into shape. Wrap into foil packages. ½-inch thick and divide them among 2 plates. Stir South is a melting pot of so many nations foods. “My favorite feedback from diners is, Steam for 15 minutes before serving. Makes about cheese and lemon juice into the porridge, correct coming together,” says David Bancroft, ‘Everything felt so familiar,’” Kumar says. 18 to 20 tamales. seasonings with salt, and spoon it next to the chef/partner of Acre and Bow & Arrow in duck. Drizzle the breasts with the warmed jus. Auburn, Alabama. In essence, new times call for new commandments. Here are Adapted from Sean Brock’s “South: Essential seven to bank on. Recipes and New Explorations,” Artisan. Get to Know Your Neighbors ... WHENEVER YOU CAN GET YOUR HANDS ON AN INGREDIENT THAT Southern food has always been ethnic THE GENERAL PUBLIC ISN’T FAMILIAR WITH, YOU CAN TELL YOUR Carolina rice food, says Currence. “It’s an amazing quilt gets upgraded of different (people) arriving in the most GUESTS AN AMAZING STORY AND INTRODUCE THEM TO A NEW FOOD. to a -like fertile area of the country and recreating —Katie Button, executive chef and CEO of Katie Button Restaurants in Asheville, North Carolina creaminess.

USFoods.com/foodfanatics | FOOD FANATICS 39 Hug Southern Kimchi Beet-Cured with Beet Cream When a South Korean Kia car factory Cheese and Watercress Salad opened in Auburn, Alabama, Korean Chef Todd Richards markets and restaurants followed. Chef One Flew South, Atlanta David Bancroft was so impressed he created a Southern take on the Korean 4 cups pickle brine, recipe follows rice dish bibimbap, swapping in Carolina 12 ounces red beets, about 3, trimmed Gold rice, cheeks and sesame collard and peeled green salad. Even his kimchi gets a ¼ cup plus 1 teaspoon kosher salt Southern drawl; sweet potatoes stand in ¼ cup sugar for cabbage. “I make it completely my own 2 tablespoons beet powder by sourcing everything locally as much as 2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves possible so there are as few miles between 1 teaspoon black peppercorns me and the food source as possible,” he ½ teaspoon fennel seeds says. “People enjoy seeing a familiar food ½ teaspoon ground coffee hit the table in a bizarre way.” Eight 4-ounce skinless trout fillets 2 teaspoons olive oil There’s Nothing a Good Collard Can’t Do 8 ounces cream cheese, softened “What’s really great about Southern food 1 tablespoon prepared To make watercress salad: Whisk together now is that people are going into their ¼ teaspoon ground white pepper 2 tablespoons olive oil, 4 teaspoons fresh lemon family history and presenting dishes they 16 toast points juice and 1 teaspoon sea salt. Toss with 4 ounces had as kids in new, exciting ways,” says Watercress salad, recipe follows watercress. Makes about 2 cups. Todd Richards, chef-owner of Richards’ Southern Fried in Atlanta. Bring pickle brine, beets and 1 teaspoon salt Beet powder can be purchased online, often That’s the inspiration behind Richards’ to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low and called “beet juice powder” or “beet root powder.” collard greens ramen. His mother loved simmer until beets are tender, about 25 minutes. Chinese food; his frugal father wouldn’t Remove from the heat, pickle 1 hour, cover and Adapted from Todd Richards’ “Soul: A Chef’s let any food go to waste. So they cooked refrigerate overnight. Culinary Evolution in 150 Recipes,” Oxmoor. leftover ramen in collard green pot House, 2018 made with bacon drippings, smoked ham Finely grind together sugar, beet powder, hocks and bourbon. The offering is the thyme leaves, peppercorns, fennel seeds, most popular dish at Richards’ spot at the ground coffee and remaining ¼ cup salt. Atlanta airport, One Flew South. “It’s very Spread half of mixture on sheet tray; place comforting to diners,” Richards says. fillets on top and cover with remaining spice In 2019, the James Beard For African American chefs and diners, mix. Cover and refrigerate 8 to 12 hours. this new openness particularly resonates, Foundation gave both its since many Southern foods, including okra, Rinse trout, pat dry with paper towels, drizzle with top chef and outstanding originated in west Africa. “Now there’s olive oil and wrap each fillet in parchment paper. more value in our food,” say Richards. Let the trout fillets stand at room temperature for pastry chef awards to “When chefs say my grandmother did 1 hour. Remove the trout from the parchment and SOUTHERN CHEFS: it this way or that way, we’re having thinly slice the fillets into ¹⁄8-inch thick slices. conversations about black culture through ASHLEY CHRISTENSEN of our food.” Cut one of the beets into ¼-inch thick slices. Poole’s Diner in Raleigh, Place remaining beets in food processor and add Embrace the Border With Southern- cream cheese, horseradish and white pepper, and North Carolina, and KELLY Mexican Mashups process until smooth. Serve trout with the pickled Mexican influences are embraced in the beet slices, beet cream cheese, toast points and FIELDS of Willa Jeans in South—and not just through Tex-Mex. watercress salad. Makes 8 servings. New Orleans, respectively. “You can always pick up that Mexican flair at Acre,” says Bancroft, who grew up in To make pickle brine: Bring 1 quart water, It’s a sign of popularity and San Antonio, Texas. Locally grown sweet 16 ounces apple cider vinegar, 1 cup sugar, respect for the new South, potatoes are paired with masa for his ½ cup kosher salt and 1 tablespoon pickling Alabama tamales, which include chorizo spice to a boil to dissolve ingredients; cool. chefs say.

40 FOOD FANATICS | WINTER 2020 USFoods.com/foodfanatics | FOOD FANATICS 41 WHEN CHEFS SAY MY GRANDMOTHER DID IT Amazing in any THIS WAY OR THAT WAY, WE’RE HAVING CONVERSATIONS ABOUT BLACK CULTURE THROUGH OUR FOOD. LANGUAGE —Todd Richards, chef/owner of Rich- ards’ Southern Fried in Atlanta

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Get the the artisan’s beef recipe for Southern saag on page 44. Pick up some suggestions from our chef inspired recipes at: STERLINGSILVERMEATS.COM or follow us: ©2019 Cargill Meat Solutions Corporation. All Rights Reserved. 42 FOOD FANATICS | WINTER 2020 ™ made with locally farmed venison. Instead Expect to see Sea Island red peas—creamy Vegan of corn , the mixture is wrapped in and slightly sweet—on more menus. They Chorizo Crumbles collard greens, making the wrapper edible. dry and freeze well, so Hoppin’ John can be “It has all of the nostalgia of the , served even in the winter. n but it’s made with straight Alabama ingredients,” Bancroft says. Celebrate Regional—and Subregional— Southern Food Southern Saag and Chicken “What I’m really loving about Southern Chef Vishwesh Bhatt food today is that people are diving deep Snackbar, Oxford, Mississippi into the history of their regions,” says Katie Button, executive chef and CEO of 2 tablespoons clarified butter Katie Button Restaurants in Asheville, 1 teaspoon oil North Carolina. 2 cups onion, diced small Enamored with Appalachian fare and 1 tablespoon ginger-garlic paste A taste of @davidbancroft, above, and @fordfry. ingredients, Button pairs greasy 1 tablespoon tomato paste with syrup, a molasses-like ¾ tablespoon garam masala sweetener grown easily in the Appalachian 1 teaspoon Kashmiri chili powder mountains that once was regarded as a 1 teaspoon coriander seeds, crushed cheaper alternative to sugar. At her ½ teaspoon cumin seeds, crushed shop, Button & Co., Button serves a fig and ¼ teaspoon turmeric sorghum bagel, an Appalachian riff on the Keep Up, Be Inspired ¾ cup water classic raisin bagel that keys in Chefs stay in touch with one another 2½ pounds mixed greens, such as mustard, on the molasses notes. and diners directly in the age of turnip and collard, washed and trimmed “Chefs are always looking for something social media. The handles below are Kosher salt, as needed different, so whenever you can get your Instagram unless otherwise noted. Pinch of sugar hands on an ingredient that the general 1 cup heavy cream public isn’t familiar with, you can tell your > David Bancroft, @davidbancroft ½ teaspoon amchur powder guests an amazing story and introduce > Katie Button, chefkatiebutton ½ pound chicken, cooked and diced them to a new food.” (Twitter) > Sean Brock, @hseanbrock Heat butter and in a heavy bottom Heirloom Vegetables Are Priceless > Ashley Christensen, @ashley_ pot. Add onions and caramelize. Add ginger-garlic Think globally, harvest locally is the christensen paste and tomato paste; cook until the tomato South’s rallying cry. It’s about “seasonal > Nina Compton, @ninacompton paste begins to caramelize. Add garam masala, purity,” says Jon Buck, executive chef > Ford Fry, @fordfry chili powder, coriander, cumin and turmeric at in Greenville, South Carolina. > Bryan Furman, @bs_pitmaster and cook until fragrant. Add water, scrape up “That’s historically the way food was > Linton Hopkins, @chefhopkins caramelized bits and add greens. Season with salt created: What was in the field today > Margot McCormack, @margotcafe and sugar and cook until the greens are soft. - A TRENDING FLAVOR CHOICE - inspires the preparation of the food.” > Kevin Ouzts, @thespottedtrotter The more you can pickle, can or dry > Todd Richards, @cheftoddrichards Add cream and simmer until thickened and the tomatoes or okra, the better, Buck says. > Steven Satterfield, @millerunionchef greens are cooked through. Chorizo has grown Taste is the top reason Plant-based sales 86% of people who regularly But the real lure comes from serving rare > Deborah VanTrece +12% on menus in patrons select plant- have grown +37% eat plant-based protein heirloom vegetables. @chefdeborahvantrece Add the amchur, transfer mixture to a food the last 5 years.1 based protein.2 in Foodservice.3 aren’t vegan or vegetarian4 North candy roaster squash is > Paola Velez, @smallorchids processor and blend, adding water if an excellent winter ingredient that, as its > Darius Williams, @dariuscooks necessary. Return to the stove, add chicken name suggests, has a sweet taste. It stores > Cynthia Wong, @life.raft.treats to heat through and adjust seasonings. Makes To learn more about this product contact your US Foods® TM or visit: www.USFoods.com/order well at room temperature for months. 4 servings. For more information and recipes visit: www.KelloggSpecialtyChannels.com

44 FOOD FANATICS | WINTER 2020 1. Datassentials Menu Trends 2019 2. IFMA CPP Plant Based Entry 2017-2018 3. NPD Supply Track 12 Months Ending April 2019 4. Mintel Plant-Based Protein May 2019 ®, TM, ©, 2019 Kellogg NA Co. TREND TRACKER EVEN GIVE IT UGLY A REST, GETS HIGH ALERT RICOTTA Unless you’re making ITS DAY your own, it’s not so special. Celery root is nothing to look at, but its deep TRY THIS INSTEAD: flavors and versatility Make it special shows that beauty is LETTUCE IN like Here’s How in skin deep. No need to whine about the cost or not being HEAD’S UP able to source Little Gem lettuce, the darling Oakland, California, which combines With its meaty cheeks and gelatinous eyes, LAST SEEN: Of all the salad green of California. whipped ricotta with the fish head is landing on the table, taking housemade pastas fennel and radish food waste and whole animal butchery to at Hippo in Highland TRY THIS INSTEAD: Go with butter lettuce topped with salmon another level. Park, California, as Bellini in Miami does. It can support and roe, which is served celery root triangles, add crispiness to a shrimp salad with avocado with potato chips. LAST SEEN: Odd Duck in Austin, Texas, swathed in a shallot- or toss it with romaine to mimic the taste and serves chicken-fried fish heads with fish- infused buttery texture of Little Gem. bone caramel sauce, melon, chilies and herbs, sauce with chives while The Four Horsemen in New York roasts scores the highest. and glazes daily fish after they’re portioned.

NECK ALL NIGHT Rich and savory lamb neck is the meat of the moment.

LAST SEEN: It’s become a must-have at Bavel in Los Angeles, where the meat is slow roasted for and served with ALL ROADS LEAD TO PERU tahini, green amba, pickled vegetables and Peruvian fare is having its day in the sun like no other cuisine laffa. At Tigertail + Mary in Miami, the meat of late, in part because its many influences—from Japanese to NOT THAT ANYONE’S COUNTING… Italian—blend seamlessly with native recipes and ingredients Winter, spring, summer and fall menus are so SPIRIT-FREE COCKTAILS TAKE OFF is picked from the bone and served with LOOK BEFORE such as passion fruit. See story on page 16. 1990s. Chef Joshua McFadden of Ava Gene’s Booze-free drinks are becoming as creative polenta agnolotti, kale and pickled onion. in Seattle popularized six seasons in his as the alcoholic ones. Price accordingly. YOU LEAP cookbook of the same name (summer is really Stop packaging fried chicken past its death, burnt three seasons) and now chefs are taking the LAST SEEN: The $250 multicourse dinner COMEBACK QUAIL pizza or any other ill-prepared food for takeout. With approach further with micro seasons. at the Tasting Counter in Boston costs the No need to question who menus quail. The little bird has returned. so many possible delivery gaffes, don’t let your food same whether you choose a wine, beer, ALL PUFFED UP be one of them. LAST SEEN: Mago in San Francisco or nonalcoholic pairing. You won’t, however, Is puffed rice, including the wild LAST SEEN: Maison in Charleston, South Carolina, wraps quail espouses 52 seasons with a different miss the booze in the spirit-free, complex variety, that’s topping dishes all about in pancetta and serves it with Treviso, honey and sage, while TRY THIS INSTEAD: Assign an expeditor to oversee menu each week that focuses on the cocktails that accompany each course. nostalgia? Like throwing rice at a Conversation in Seattle fries and serves it with waffle crisps and what gets boxed. Train and retain staff. Remaking a a Korean chili and strawberry glaze. height of a seasonal ingredient. They’re that good. wedding, it’s landing everywhere. OUT FADING dish is far cheaper than losing a customer.

46 FOOD FANATICS | WINTER 2020 USFoods.com/foodfanatics | FOOD FANATICS 47 FOOD PEOPLE / AM  Iv

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© 2019 US Foods, Inc. 09-2019-FOF-2019082208 USFoods.com/foodfanatics | FOOD FANATICS 49 Successful bar food options include oysters at Saltine, right, queso fundido with shishito peppers at Cortland’s Garage, opposite page, and sweet potato hummus at Ralph’s on the Park.

as grilled shishito peppers with ginger- Sriracha dipping sauce. At The Occidental, ❱ Bar menus are no longer built just for lighter yet equally crispy bites, including the “bro set,” those sports obsessives who summer rolls and roasted corn fritters, also didn’t quibble over endless chicken wings help move bargoers into the dining room. and jalapeno poppers as long as the beer flowed freely and sight lines ended at large- ❚ Talk Isn’t Cheap screen TVs. Since most bargoers enjoy the social These days, diversity reigns on the aspects of the bar scene, dishes shouldn’t barstools and along the counter. “It’s not be messy or require knives and forks. “We one group or gender (anymore),” says try to keep the bar menu geared toward Taylor Shaver, the general manager at food items that are not going to interrupt FireLake Grill House and Cocktail Bar in conversation,” says Frankie Jones, The Bloomington, Minnesota. “Bars provide a Occidental’s bar manager. Lightly battered more social scene and sense of community crab croquettes showcase Maryland jumbo than a restaurant setting does.” lump crab without the need for utensils. Although bar fare’s primary purpose Barroom classics with a modern twist remains unchanged—offering food to are also big hits. “If you get too exotic or help increase sales—this demographic too trendy, a lot of people aren’t prepared shift is reason to rethink or at least for that,” says Jim August, executive chef of review your menu. Upgrading offerings Cortland’s Garage in Chicago. Try staying that appeal to evolving palates can pay with proven recipes but experiment with dividends day and night. their accoutrements. August’s menu pairs fried cheese curds with a Guinness ❚ Mirror the Dining Room mustard sauce, stuffs its with Customers often want a lower price point tequila-lime chicken and gilds a nacho or a more casual and speedier experience plate with housemade queso fundido. at the bar. They don’t want, however, a bar menu that’s too different from the main ❚ Diets Don’t Die at the Bar menu, operators say. Guests with dietary restrictions expect “There’s always a challenge here to their needs to be met at the bar, so include come up with something creative and find gluten-free and vegetable options. At something to grab people’s imagination,” Ralph’s on the Park, a sweet potato says David Hart, general manager of hummus is a vegetarian favorite with a Ralph’s on the Park in New Orleans. At ❚ Don’t Forget the Solo Diner ❚ Timing is Everything decent profit margin. “(It) is fairly low Ralph’s that means Southern fare with a The downside of larger, shareable portions The period between lunch and dinner cost, but it’s delicious and is served with global twist, such as creole shrimp dip with is that they can alienate the solo bar-goer. is prime time for the bar at Saltine in housemade sesame crackers that show a crostini or made with a “We do include a few actual dining items Nashville, Tennessee. Although most little bit of creativity,” Hart says. At Saltine, instead of . on our menu just in case we have a solo diners come for a bite and drink, it’s a switch to rice flour snacks lures gluten- At FireLake, a sense of whimsy is a big diner that happens to be at the bar as well,” possible to convert light-spending visitors free diners and produce a lighter, crispier from 4 to 6 p.m. during the week. They’ve ❚ Give ‘Em Space selling point, whether it’s potato-crusted says Frankie Jones, bar manager at The into sit-down diners by offering teasers dish. “We use rice flour for our calamari, proved so popular they now appear on Consider allowing groups to reserve space broccoli tots or bacon-wrapped quail legs. Occidental in Washington, D.C. Solo folks that reflect the main menu. “The hope is and it’s 10 times better,” Zizka says. the weekends. “We learned that if you at the bar. The Occidental offers a full bar “Of course, people don’t walk into a place might opt for one of the full entrees on the you’re going to order an entree or sit down can bring (customers) in on a Saturday buy-out for 50 to 60 people, but group thinking, ‘I hope they have bacon-wrapped bar menu, such as a grilled Berkshire pork at a table,” says executive chef Eric Zizka. ❚ Working for the Weekend or Sunday for happy hour, they are going reservations also lure local professionals. quail legs,’ but they’re delicious once you’re chop or a crab cake sandwich, but some Instead of heavily battered pub grub, Just about everyone likes a happy hour to stay later,” Zizka says. “Ideally they’re “For office get-togethers, they want to in front of them,” Shaver says. “Then you bar programs offer half orders of larger which tends to turn off professionals special, so consider weekend deals as having such a good time that they are make sure there’s space reserved for them,” order another round of them and they start appetizers so solo diners can cobble them regardless of gender, Zizka offers crunchy well. Saltine includes $1.50 oysters and going to tell somebody who is going to tell Jones says. Just don’t overbook your slots, getting shared around the table.” together to make a . fare that doesn’t require a deep fryer, such BY ERIC HALL PHOTOGRAPHY PHOTOGRAPHY RALPH’S ON THE PARK BY SALTINE, PHOTOGRAPHY $5 snacks along with discounted drinks somebody and that’s a snowball effect.” which alienates walk-in customers. n

50 FOOD FANATICS | WINTER 2020 USFoods.com/foodfanatics | FOOD FANATICS 51 MODEL 1 MODEL 2 MODEL 3

SMALL HOSPITALITY FEES SIZABLE SERVICE CHARGES PRICE HIKES In 2016, Lombardi’s Italian Restaurant in Instead of adding a small service fee, Chad At Mamaleh’s Delicatessen in Cambridge, Everett and Bothell, Washington, began Mackay, CEO of Fire and Vine Hospitality, Massachusetts, co-owner Rachel Miller tacking on a 5 percent service fee, a number implemented a 20% service charge in 2016 to Munzer has raised prices 5 percent, allocating management felt could boost BOH wages cover wages and health benefits, making tips the additional revenue to the kitchen staff. without alienating diners. optional at his Seattle restaurants, including El Miller Munzer believed the revenue share, “Our front of the house staff were making Gaucho. The fee offsets two profit pressures which they also implemented at their other more than double what the back of house that most big cities are now experiencing: restaurants, State Park and Cafe Du Pays, made,” recalls Diane Symms, Lombardi’s minimum wage hikes ($15 an hour in Seattle) would increase wages for BOH staff by $2 per founder and president who previously allowed and the lack of a tip credit (which allows hour. Instead it led to $3 per hour increases, servers to “tip out” BOH staff before a state restaurants to pay below minimum wage). which Miller Munzer admits were great for staff restriction outlawed it. Only there’s a twist: Front of house staff at but made it hard for the fledgling restaurant to Despite some early concerns by diners and El Gaucho can earn a commission—as much as make ends meet. staff, it’s helped address the problem. Servers 13%—on their sales, which is paid through a “We’re trying to figure out how to be a keep their tips and BOH staff receive between revenue share (with funds generated from the responsible business and pay people a living 1 and 3.5% (depending on the job) of the service charge) as well as optional additional wage” she says, “but not at the expense of the service fee. A half percent is allocated to a gratuities. Mackay says it provides an business not surviving.” “retention pool” that’s divided among BOH staff “additional incentive to go above and beyond In 2018, Mamaleh’s reduced its revenue as an annual bonus. with service.” share to 3.5 percent (Café Du Pays dropped In 2017, Rebecca Kean, co-owner and Mackay lists the policy on his website and its revenue share from 4 percent to operations manager of Brassica Kitchen menu and also convened senior servers to 2.5 percent and State Park stayed at 5 and Cafe in Boston, took a similar approach, explain the idea when it launched. “We said, percent). The additional fees are added to adding an additional 3% service fee that is paid ‘Here’s what you are making and here’s what bi-weekly paychecks of BOH staff; FOH staff directly to the kitchen staff. “Our servers have we think you’ll be making under the new still earns tips. been trained to tell (diners) they can leave 3% model, and if it doesn’t work out like we think, Although some restaurants, including San less for a tip, but it rarely happens.” we’ll fix it,’” he recalls. “We wanted their buy-in.” Francisco’s Trou Normand and Aster and all At Lombardi’s, Symms says a few of her Finding the right percentage can be tricky. 18 Joe’s Crab Shack locations, experimented servers quit over concerns the service fee Restaurants such as 71 Above in Los Angeles with the model and nixed it, Miller Munzer and MIND THE GAP would negatively impact their tips, but those and Corona’s Mexican Grill in Broomfield, her partners are holding strong. They haven’t Revised models emerge to who remained are earning just as much as Colorado, charge service fees ranging from experienced much push back at Mamaleh’s, ease wage disparities before, while turnover in the kitchen is down an 10 to 18%, but it may be worth it. Mackay which she credits to her left-leaning estimated 30%. The best part, says Symms, is estimates servers can earn up to $75 per hour Massachusetts clientele, noting, “This is a By JODI HELMER an improved working relationship between the with minimum wage plus commission, while very community-driven area where people ❱ If gratuity-free policies have proved front and back of the house. wages for back of the house staff have gone want to contribute to a better world through anything, it’s that upending a long- up as much as 50%. pastrami sandwiches.” n entrenched practice is no easy task, especially when it comes to closing the wage gap between front and back of the house staff. Despite some movement—including new restrictions on pooling tips and MAKING IT WORK higher minimum-wage requirements in Each of the options to close the wage gap between front and back of house staff has its own pros and cons. some states—regional wage reports show that significant wage disparities still exist between FOH and BOH in many states. In Seattle, for example, servers in fine MODEL ADVANTAGES DRAWBACKS dining restaurants earned more than $17 per hour while kitchen staff earned Eliminating tipping • Provides FOH and BOH staff with similar salaries • FOH staff lose incentive to provide outstanding customer service $11 per hour. Most industry leaders agree that the Service charges • BOH staff are guaranteed a portion of each guest check • Risk of angering guests who feel nickel and dimed over additional fees problem needs to be addressed, but a • Educates guests about wage disparities • May lead to reduced tips for FOH staff if diners tip less to offset the consensus over the model doesn’t exist. • Revenue can be allocated to specific needs such as healthcare service charge Much can be gleaned, however, from operators who are experimenting. Raising prices • Provides additional revenue to raise wages for BOH staff • Might turn away guests choosing restaurants based on price • The revenue from higher prices rarely trickles down to front line staff

52 FOOD FANATICS | WINTER 2020 USFoods.com/foodfanatics | FOOD FANATICS 53 Auburn chef Eric Bost, center, captures a sense of place on the plate.

❱FOR FIVE YEARS, BILL ADDISON TRAVELED FROM ONE END OF THE COUNTRY TO THE OTHER COVERING RESTAURANTS FOR EATER, FIRST AS THE NATIONAL EDITOR AND THEN AS ITS CRITIC. In 2017, his last year at the online dining Q. Why so much love for Los Angeles? or steak feels of the moment but doesn’t go to platform, Addison spent so much time on one cuisine or background. There’s personal the road that he gave up his residence in value on the plate. But a chef can also start in A. America’s taste in food and curiosity very humble circumstances, and if the food Atlanta, staying with friends or at hotels about different evolved and matched is on point and the staff is friendly and the while on assignment. what was always there in Los Angeles. (Critic) service is good, you have a good chance in When he started his new gig at the Los Jonathan Gold was the great gift of food making it. Angeles Times earlier this year, it was a writing in America because he held up the watershed moment. multi-cuisine culture of Los Angeles as a While most print publications had taken complete right—and egalitarian in its existence. machetes to the staff, the Times expanded its food coverage and returned the What about closings? department to a stand-alone section. Q. California, specifically Los Angeles, You’ve seen restaurants shutter as fast HOW TO GET A had reached critical mass, turning out Q. A. Dynamic Dish (in Atlanta) chef David as they open, and you’ve seen them take the most exciting and diverse food in the Sweeney made impeccable straight-from-the- off. What are the common denominators? KILLER U.S. Like a flashback to the ’90s, when farmers-market food and was such a precise Alice Waters flipped the switch to cooking cook. The food wasn’t cheap, but it was in seasonally, a new generation of chefs in A. A receptive audience and communities a gentrifying (part) of town, and that brings other parts of the country had begun that give chefs the permission to do what with it complications. The restaurant didn’t emulating and putting their own spin on they do. The chef is not stuck in the notion of find its audience. But sometimes for whatever . authenticity-only. (The food) is executed well; reasons—the location, the philosophy, the cost It’s not lost on Addison that he has a it’s understandable. I honestly think it’s that because they want to use quality ingredients— dream job. He is cognizant of the weight of simple. A beautiful atmosphere can carry you it fails. There are often factors unseen to the REVIEW his words, which can mean the difference into certain genre, like Auburn (in Los Angeles), dining public that have nothing to do with No one knows restaurants like this between a trickle and a flood of diners after which is so incredibly beautiful and feels like the talent or the chef or the creativity of the a review. Here, he shares insights from his an occasion to be in that space. (Eric) Bost is menu. I honestly think chef was ahead of his Los Angeles Times critic 20-plus years of covering the business and an example of a chef who incorporates French time—you can have super simple food cooked By LAURA YEE what can lead to a killer review. with a sense of place. What surrounds duck impeccably and still not make it. PHOTOGRAPHY BY AUBURN LA

USFoods.com/foodfanatics | FOOD FANATICS 55 As Seen At The NRA Show!

Here’s Looking at Q. What else? You succeeds with unexpected pairings, top, while Sqirl transformed Introducing the WeGo Utensil Dispenser System A. In a city like Los Angeles, most of the time, the notion of breakfast. if you’re not charging exorbitant prices and you’re doing food that’s consistent and has a through-line, it doesn’t oversell; it’s not all over the place. (But) then there’s Here’s Looking at You. That food is complicated. (Chef Jonathan Whitener brings together his Mexican background with Upcoming food trends? Asian and local ingredients in a new American Q. concept.) But because he has skill and a clear mind and is consistent in his inconsistency, the A. Comfort food in all the numerous ways restaurant really works. It’s brilliant. it can be expressed still sells in America, even in Los Angeles. A place like Sqirl and Jessica Koslow reinvigorated chefs taking breakfast seriously with riffs on rice Q. Most regular diners have pet peeves. and grain bowls, ricotta and jam, but because What’s yours? she was able to execute impeccably, there are lines out the door, and restaurants emulating her say it all. A. My biggest pet peeve in dining is a server who asks if I know how the menu works. I don’t understand that at all. I understand that I have a skewed perception, but I feel that people Why you should listen What about further down the line? are informed enough that they can figure out to this restaurant critic Q. if a restaurant specializes in small plates or a more traditional format. We don’t need a five- The trend in the future will be no trend. › When the beloved Pulitzer Prize- A. minute explanation. I say that with a hint of cynicism. As long as winning food critic Jonathan Gold died media exists, there will be trends. We’re in in 2018, the Los Angeles Times cast a a time where any kind of cuisine and any country-wide net to fill the spot and A-Code: kind of iteration that is done well can thrive. A-Code: hired Bill Addison. He had worked in Do you think bloggers and other There will always be mixing and matching for 8803023 9841930 Q. the restaurant business—a plus—but untrained food critics help diners or modern fusion and traditionalists expressing he had experience no one could rival: hurt the process? a cuisine as true as they can present. We a national perspective. need both of them. A. Restaurant critics are an endangered › In addition to his post as the species. The business of journalism and the national editor and then restaurant professionalism of covering restaurants has critic for Eater, Addison’s credentials What do you hope for dining out shifted against restaurant criticism because the include stints at the Dallas Morning Q. in 2020? tenet of restaurant critic is the publication you News, the San Francisco Chronicle write for pays for your meal so it’s as ethically and Creative Loafing, the alternative upstanding as possible. I don’t want freebies. weekly in Atlanta. A. That those of us who make food for When I’m recognized despite my best attempt, I diners and those who write about it will get get angry when they send food. It’s a business › Addison also has been nominated for to a place where it isn’t unusual or special to for me, and a business for you, so let’s keep the many James Beard Awards, winning in have food that comes from the community lines clean. 2017 for dining and travel writing. where it’s served. n PHOTOGRAPHY (TOP) BY REBECCA ARANDA PHOTOGRAPHY, (BOTTOM) SQIRL Order your FREE WeGo Utensil Dispenser Today through Direct Drop Ship!

56 FOOD FANATICS | WINTER 2020 www.WeGoVendingCo.com FOOD FANATIC ROAD TRIP! WORTH THE STOP

150 Quick Stop (Jake’s Sausage Shop) 4858 Springfield Road, Bardstown Yes, a gas station and yes, the ultimate Bourbon sausage biscuits. 610 Magnolia 610 W. Magnolia Ave., Louisville Country Edward Lee. Enough said. By JAMES COCHRAN, ROBERT FRYE AND ED BUTLER Bourbon in Main 103 W. Main St., Frankfort Chocolate bread pudding, inspired cocktails and an impressive bourbon library for what you may have missed on the trail. ❱ Bourbon, classic southern food, genuine hospitality and more bourbon. We’re talking the Kentucky Bourbon The Brown Hotel Trail, formed in 1999 to bring tourism to 335 W Broadway, Louisville the state. Home of the iconic Hot Brown, roof top view. Inherently local, the trail of 17 major distilleries has grown to 37, representing the growth of smaller craft bourbon Feast BBQ makers. While many are located in the 909 E. Market St., Louisville Louisville area, some are as far as 70 miles Best BBQ on the Ohio River. Really. apart, making it impossible to cover them all. But rest assured. Solid restaurants, new and longstanding, can be found near all of Le Moo Pollo Bandido them, ready to complement tastings before 2300 Lexington Road, Louisville 135 Versailles Road, Frankfort and after. Real Japanese wagyu steaks and the coolest Classic barbecue meats Mexican with Nearly all restaurants honor tradition in Louis Vuitton upholstered booth. its housemade tortillas, and some way with classic and updated takes spinach pupusas. on barbecue, fried chicken, the hot brown turkey sandwich, Derby pie and the iconic Mayan Café mint julep. That includes Edward Lee who 813 E. Market St., Louisville Proof on Main drew more eyes to Louisville than any Forward-thinking Latino food. 702 W. Main St., Louisville other chef by bringing Asian ingredients to The adjoining 21c Museum Hotel the Southern Table. keeps it interesting with food, drink There’s no wrong way to eat and explore and people watching. the Bourbon Trail but if you need help, here are some of our favorite restaurants. n Star Hill Provisions 3350 Burks Spring Road, Loretta An ode to local ingredients and solid classics inside the Maker’s Mark Distillery. Get inspired by the drink FOOD FANATICS CHEFS menu and James Cochran, Robert Frye and Ed Butler Southern live and eat by the Kentucky Bourbon Trail. The Stave Restaurant and Bourbon Bar Clockwise, wagyu beef tongue and a creamy dumplings, 5711 McCracken Pike, Frankfort Follow @ _jamie_cochran and @ffcheffrye on bourbon dessert from 610 top, at Proof Instagram. Check out the official trail site at For a hot chicken sandwich, a hot brown on Main in Magnolia, and cochinita kybourbontrail.com. and Brunswick stew. pibil from Mayan Cafe. Louisville. COURTESY OF 21C MUSEUM HOTELS PHOTOGRAPHY:

58 FOOD FANATICS | WINTER 2020 USFoods.com/foodfanatics | FOOD FANATICS 59 MONEY & SENSE /

NOW THAT’S EATER- TAINMENT!

Bowling is one of When diners want more many activities offered at The than each other’s company

PHOTOGRAPHY BY HEIDI GELDHAUSER/OUR LABOR OF LOVE PHOTOGRAPHY Painted Duck. By MEGAN ROWE Dancing demonstration at Artango ❱ When good food clients, it’s become one of Wolkon’s most Everyone and attentive service aren’t enough to profitable concepts under Secret Sauce draw diners into restaurants, operators Food and Beverage, his company that’s run have an intriguing new option: upping the Denver-area restaurants for two decades. Just Wants to entertainment quotient. “We are restaurateurs first,” he says, It might involve shopping, themed live “and we want guests to visit Ace for the Have Fun music or even ax throwing. And while food and bar program first, and then stay When nearly 1 in 3 people prefer a restaurants are looking for ways to be more for the pingpong.” It’s common for guests bar or club with an activity, food and entertaining, the original experiential to stay three or four hours with check drink in one place, restaurateurs have concepts—arcade games and bowling—are averages hovering around $30, with solid an opportunity to cash in. making food the marquee attraction. restaurant traffic. A recent survey by Seven Rooms, Call it next-level eatertainment: a fusion In Atlanta, Justin Amick and William a hospitality marketing firm, shows: of noteworthy food, service and recreation Stallworth are rolling strikes with The all in one place. Painted Pin and The Painted Duck, “There’s very much a shift in people which are a universe away from old- wanting some sort of experiential dining,” school bowling alleys. Amick, whose 25% says Nicole Mattson, who opened Nocturne family owns the Concentrics Restaurants People who say they have more fun at Jazz and Supper Club in Denver with her group, says he was “tired of the monotony venues that combine activity with food The modern American menu ventures husband, Scott. of traditional dining” and wanted an and drink than traditional venues. beyond lounge food, with items like pan- A few decades ago as chefs increasingly alternative to the dinner-and-a-movie roasted scallops, coconut curry mussels and became celebrities, dining out was the routine. The Painted Duck offers a long list Southern fried pork paillard. Nocturne also entertainment. But now that chef-driven of activities, such as 16 duckpin bowling features a five-course tasting menu tied to restaurants and open are lanes, indoor horseshoes, basketball and a classic album. When a new menu debuts, the norm, can be taken to-go or snookball (a hybrid sport that blends pool 24% local musicians perform their version of delivered, and streaming services provide with soccer), while the Painted Pin offers Respondents who wish more nearby each piece. The events tend to sell out, but seemingly endless programming at home, traditional bowling, pub games, bocce venues combine an activity the menu is available for a few months. consumers need more of a reason to drop courts, pingpong, skee-ball, Southern-style with food and drink. Nocturne guests spend an average of $45 Chef Bill Kim of The Table at Crate the remote. skittles and other games. to $55, Mattson says, and tend to linger for & Barrel (above “Adding a social component increases the Chef Thomas Collins’ menu at The two and a half to three hours. The club also center) and the staff length of stay and the market reach,” says Painted Duck specializes in “backyard adds an artist fee of $8 to $25 to each check consider synergistic Randy White, CEO of White Hutchinson bar fare”—shareable small plates, dips, to ensure fair pay for the musicians. ways to show off the Leisure & Learning Group, a consultancy in sliders, skewered wood-fired meats that 21% “Having jazz music performed on plateware and food, Respondents are willing to including the spice- Kansas City, Missouri. “How far people will can be eaten while playing—and a full bar stage adds to the draw,” says Mattson. spend more money on a night out marinated skirt drive is a function of their length of stay.” program by acclaimed mixologist Trip “It gives people a reason to go out on a steak with waffle In other words, if an experience is worth Sandifer, which feeds into the live music at an eatertainment venue than a Tuesday night.” fries, right. sticking around, people will see it as worth a and dance floors. traditional venue. In Chicago, Artango Bar & Steakhouse drive across town, providing opportunities “We are very busy,” he says, with checks draws crowds with its in-house dance for operators to increase sales. averaging $40 to $50 and guests’ visits performances. After running a tango ranging from two to five hours. school for many years, Maria Casanova, Up and Moving with the help of her husband, Sebastian, Indoor sports, such as table tennis, A Different Tune opened a spot modeled after milongas, the shuffleboard, bowling and video games, The Mattsons wanted to open a jazz club dance-centric supper clubs of 1920s-era require larger spaces but the right formula but determined that their target audience Buenos Aires, Argentina. It offers live can lead to success. Take Josh Wolkon’s Ace wasn’t as familiar with that type of music as music, tango lessons and Argentine food Eat Serve, a pingpong concept in Denver’s older audiences, so they decided to focus on 10 SECOND SYNOPSIS and Prohibition-era and Latin cocktails. Uptown neighborhood. The 9,000-square- a food- and cocktail-first concept with a jazz Diners today need more incentive to head Artango patrons spend an average of foot former garage space focuses on Asian angle. “We thought that instead of opening out for a meal, especially now that quality $52, Casanova says, but the restaurant options, such as , ramen and bao a jazz club that would appeal to jazz fans, we food can be picked up or delivered—and they also attracts neighborhood regulars. The buns—a departure from the expected would appeal to the food and cocktail fans don’t even need to get dressed. Operators entertainment and beginner tango lessons burgers and pizza—and also caters to a and add some jazz in, and hopefully they have responded by improving food quality cast a wider net. “People check the calendar business clientele. With a 500-person would fall in love with the music,” Nicole and making restaurants more experiential—a and keep coming back. We get people from

capacity and AV gear to draw corporate BY SEAN MCGILL PHOTOGRAPHY BY ARTANGO PHOTOGRAPHY Mattson says. change that’s redefining eatertainment. far away and all over the city,” she says.

62 FOOD FANATICS | WINTER 2020 Clockwise: Pingpong concept Ace Eat Serve improved food options with dishes like Peking duck while The Table at Crate unites the natural synergies of a restaurant (food prep and presentation) with shopping for cookware, cookbooks and . Good for You, Good for the Planet – Show Time: Eatertainment Just Plain Good! Options By adding Gardein™ plant-based proteins to your menu once a week, you can: • Grow your revenue and profi ts • Increase diner satisfaction Take aim: Ax throwing, a Canadian pastime, • Meet the demand for plant-based dishes • Reduce environmental impact has made its way to a variety of U.S. cities, such as Boston, Detroit and Charlotte, North Carolina. Some promote food as the draw, Implementing Gardein™ Meatless Monday is a snap – such as The Corner in Ferndale, Michigan, which features ax throwing and board games. visit www.gardeinmeatlessmonday.com to join in!

Campfire classics: Atlanta’s Ladybird Grove and Mess Hall serves “elevated campfire cuisine”— think Brunswick stew, spatchcock chicken and pot roast skillet—on communal tables (just like camp).

DIY: 111 East, named after its address in the newly developed retail, restaurant and residential Boston Seaport, takes hotpot out of its typical Chinese enclave and into polished mainstream dining. Diners cook their own meals tableside surrounded by modern decor, a soundtrack of house music and attentive service.

Indoor mini-golf: At Urban Putt in San No Dining and Dashing motivate diners to buy the Crate & Barrel Francisco, drink tables at each hole allow Retail-based restaurants, once a wine glasses, dishware, chairs or tables miniature golf fans to put around while department-store mainstay, are back as linked to the experience? enjoying Tin Cup Punch or thin-crust a way to revitalize in-person shopping. “Food and beverage is a natural pizzas and country club-style fare. In July, two brick-and-mortar concepts extension of the brand,” says a added restaurants: the Chicago flagship Cornerstone spokesperson. The Retro rec: Daly’s Pub & Rec in Park City, Lululemon store, which specializes in yoga restaurant is intended to drive business Utah, nails a nostalgic vibe with shuffleboard, clothing, and Crate & Barrel, which sells to the store, and vice versa. “It can create darts, vintage arcade games, all paired furniture and housewares. Canada-based more of a destination for customers and with updated classics like deviled Lululemon’s first foray into food is run by guests, who can combine it into a whole eggs, truffle mac and cheese and fried Blue Plate Catering and includes a burger day trip. A couple shopping for their 79% chicken wraps. and beer along with healthier items, such registry might turn it into a date night, of restaurant patrons eat as salads and smoothies. for example,” she adds. vegetarian items more than once a week1 Beefl ess made with Taste of Broadway: Ellen’s Stardust Diner on The Table at Crate, Crate & Barrel’s These diverse concepts succeed by Gardein™ Beefl ess Tips (#1611334) New York City’s Times Square channels the first in-store restaurant, which opened offering something video games, Netflix glitz of Broadway, as young performers/ over the summer in Oak Brook, Illinois, and a comfy sofa can’t: novelty. “Digital servers shed their trays to belt out show is run by Cornerstone Restaurant Group entertainment is your No. 1 competition,” tunes, while guests are served deli classics and acclaimed chef Bill Kim. It poses the White says. “You need to offer something and all-day breakfast options. question: Will a stellar meal or service unique that people cannot get at home.” n SEAN MCGILL BY ACE, PHOTOGRAPHY CLOCKWISE: 866-816-7313 or 1MenuMonitor 2015, Center of the Plate: Seafood and Vegetarian Consumer Trends Report 64 FOOD FANATICS | WINTER 2020 ©2019 Conagra . All Rights Reserved. foodservice.pinnaclefoods.com USE EXCESS FAT FROM 19. Amplify the flavor of pumpkin ’NDUJA TO FORTIFY AND dishes with a stock made with 9. dehydrated pumpkin skin, white Most kitchens FLAVOR COLLARDS AND wine, white vinegar, orange peel, pink know how to OTHER GREENS. peppercorns and a bay leaf. Adjust reduce waste: 10. Use prep from breakfast and lunch, 20. Use pulp from fruit or juice typically inventory to sales, use all parts such as kale stems, for a vinaigrette. discarded vegetable parts for cocktails. of an ingredient, adopt a nose-to- tail approach, or purchase precut proteins and produce when prices 11. Add minced garlic, shallots or onions left 21. Make vinegar with leftover are less than labor. over from a shift to make stocks, brines and products, including leftover wine. Specifics, however, aren’t fermenting vinegars. always obvious. Start or add to this go-to list from chefs who DEHYDRATE FENNEL make cutting waste a priority. 12. Combine chopped citrus ends, FRONDS TO DUST ON leftover pulp and citrus shells from daily 22. juicing along with sugar, citric acid and DISHES AND COCKTAILS. juice from fruit past its prime to make a cordial for cocktails. 23. Juice fennel stalks for a fennel and citrus cocktail. USE VEGETABLE SCRAPS 13. Add leftover charcuterie scraps to an FOR STOCK. XO sauce. 1. 24. Give more character LESS by adding cherry pits. Ferment at room temperature for 48 hours; refrigerate. Add dried fruit pulp to a housemade 2. Toast and salt seeds from 14. Avoid cracked pits (which contain cyanide). winter squash for garnishing. hot sauce.

25. Experiment with other pits, such as Save stems from plucked cilantro for 3. Scrape fish bones to make fish cakes 15. olives, apricots and cling peaches, to instead of using a new bunch. IS MORE or . make different vinegars. When it comes to food waste, 4. Turn the bones into fish stock. USE PROSCIUTTO SCRAPS it pays to be scrappy TO MAKE A PROSCIUTTO- By ALICIA KENNEDY 16. 17. 26. 5. Record all ingredients that are thrown SCOTCH VINEGAR. out to shed light on waste and which USE SAVE SEEDS recipes need batch-size reductions. TOMATO AND PULP FROM TRIM FROM TOMATOES IN A 27. Throw Parmesan rinds into stocks SANDWICHES COFFEE-FILTER or risotto. Include it to make an umami- 6. Grind bacon ends or other trimmed infused vinegar. n proteins and fat to make sausage. FOR SAUCES, LINER TO MAKE STOCKS OR TOMATO WATER

GAZPACHO. FOR COCKTAILS, SOURCES: RENDER FAT FROM TRIMMED DRESSING AND 1 to 4, 6 to 11 from Evan Hanczor of Brooklyn’s Egg in PROTEINS AND USE FOR New York; 5, 16, 17 from Joel Panozzo of The Lunch 7. CONSOMME. Room in Ann Arbor, Michigan; 12 to 15 from Jaime Young SAUTEING AND FLAVORING. of Sunday in Brooklyn, New York; 18 to 19 from Maria Grubb of San Juan, Puerto Rico’s Gallo Negro; 20 from chef Garbriel Hernandez of At Verde Mesa, also in San Juan; 21 to 22 from Matt Aita of Little Beet Table in New 8. Reduce country ham bones and fatty 18. Dehydrate tomato peels or citrus peels for York and Connecticut; 25 to 26 from chef Joseph Voller of trim to enrich , such as ramen. a garnish or grind into a seasoning powder. il Nido in Marlboro, New Jersey.

MORE WAYS TO REDUCE WASTE See story on making vinegar on page 4.

66 FOOD FANATICS | WINTER 2020 USFoods.com/foodfanatics | FOOD FANATICS 67 iHELP Be efficient and tech savvy at the same time

“Do you want to add X product for an extra $2?”—in a non-intrusive way. So far, the bulk of TextRestaurant’s business has been Text to Eat in the Midwest, but clients such as Hello Faz ARRIVAL OF Another way to order delivery Pizza in Ann Arbor, Michigan, which has a By FOOD FANATICS STAFF family connection to Husain, says a subset of its customers have become fiercely loyal to the platform, often increasing their order sizes over time. To appeal to larger chains, ❱ Profitability can be tricky with online TextRestaurants has developed a more THE FITTEST ordering, a problem that fuels new advanced POS-based system that uses AI to technology. The latest efforts connect convert text messages into menu orders. Simple, tidy, strong – the perfect fi t for your operation. restaurants directly to customers via texts Monogram® Can Liners are the best in the market, and messenger platforms as the solution to Say2eat with star seals, premium resins and easy-to-use reducing the cost of third-party services. › How It Works: Say2eat works with Data shows that diners want to order restaurant clients to embed a mobile dispensing boxes. directly from restaurants instead of ordering system within Facebook’s delivery marketplaces, says Jackie Messenger app. Customers type the Talk to your US Foods® representative Berg, vice president of marketing at Olo, restaurant’s name into Messenger, click which powers digital ordering for the the restaurant’s icon and are presented today about our wide variety of sizes, restaurant industry through both white with a digital carousel of menu options, colors and styles. label apps and integration of orders from which can be customized much like a third party marketplaces. According to menu on a digital kiosk. After payment Technomic’s 2018 Takeout & Off-Premise order rate is high—around 80 to 90%. That’s information is collected, the order is fed Consumer Trend Report, 29% of diners been true for Coreanos, a Korean spot in directly into a POS system, thus reducing would order via text message, including Boston, which says 10 to 15% of its orders the need for extra employee training. 40% of 18- to 34-year-olds. now come via text message, including a Here’s a look at three services that allow sizable increase in large orders. “Our phone › Why It Works: Since Facebook diners to order through text messaging. line is no longer getting multiple calls at Messenger is already ubiquitous, diners once, and I think that helps with balancing tend to be comfortable giving it a try. Plus, The Texthood the orders that come in,” says Coreanos co- it’s sticky. According to Say2eat CEO Li-ran › How it Works: Users save a restaurant’s owner Alex Kim. Navon, only 20% of customers who start an telephone number to their address book, order on the mobile web actually complete then text when they’re hungry. This triggers TextRestaurants the transaction. With Say2eat’s system, he Texthood’s AI-based tech to convert the › How it Works: Texts are sent to an says it’s as high as 57%. Plus if a restaurant text into an electronic order and initiate in-restaurant tablet, which rings when doesn’t have a delivery operation, Say2eat’s a conversation. The platform’s integrated an order arrives. Employees reply with system can call a carrier to deliver the web interface also allows restaurants to custom messages or by clicking pre- food at a flat rate, which is 50% lower than send customers a link so they can browse an formulated quick response buttons such most outside delivery platforms charge online menu. First-time users fill out credit as, “Would you like to pay with cash or who are taking commissions from the card information in a secure web form that’s credit?” or “Is this pick-up or delivery?” orders. Growing chains like the Florida- saved to make future orders faster. Orders are manually entered into the POS based Cuban Guys says the service is and a secure payment link via PayPal is allowing them to preserve the profits › Why it Works: “This is a really powerful sent back to the customer. they once handed over to third-party channel (for restaurants), because it’s a way delivery services. “Some older diners are to have a presence on the consumer’s phone › Why It Works: “It’s a ready-to-go intimidated by online ordering; however, without very much friction,” says Adam product that provides independents a low- they’re comfortable using Messenger Sandler, co-founder of Bensen AI, which entry point into texting,” says owner Ali because they already use it to text their runs Texthood. Texthood says its service Husain, who says the system can be up and friends,” Cuban Guys co-owner Jorge drives up to $10,000 of additional revenue running in two days. The open-dialogue Llapur says. “It’s allowed us to draw new per month at some locations, and the repeat channels also allow employees to upsell— customers to our delivery options.” n © 2019 US Foods, Inc. 06-2019-FOF-2019051711

68 FOOD FANATICS | WINTER 2020 USFoods.com/foodfanatics | FOOD FANATICS 69 PR MACHINE Sharp ideas to get butts in seats

make it look like you tolerate despicable behavior, which will turn away peace- REPLY seeking diners. • Solution: Fight fire with values Freeman’s client countered with a value- REQUIRED driven message of its own on their social channels. They posted a statement about Tips for tranquilizing the farm, providing evidence it treated its chickens humanely and used sustainable the online trolls protocols. The move doused whatever ® sympathy the protester amassed, while The Chocolate Resource BACK-OF-HOUSE By LIZ LOGAN gaining likes on social media.

❱ To silence social media snipers, discretion Character Type: The Yelp Extortionists RELIABILITY is usually the better part of valor. After all, strident rebuttals usually cause more • The Solution: Apologize, then mobilize Some diners will do anything for a free collateral damage than they’re worth. The restaurant spotted the post and food, including fabricating complaints on Some smear campaigns, however, need to immediately called Ross, who drafted a review platforms such as Yelp. Separating be parried. response on Facebook. The restaurant still valid comments from phony ones is critical. “You have to respond very quickly, before apologized even though it was following When a loyal diner posted a negative Yelp ® ––––––––things get out of hand,” says Durée Ross, the code: “We are deeply sorry for the review on Simsim Outstanding Shawarma, president of the PR firm Durée & Company. recent guest feedback at our restaurant. a fast-casual restaurant in San Diego, “Years ago, we used to have hours or days We have been in contact with the family to California, it turned out to be true: some for such things. Now, it’s seconds.” discuss the situation. We are committed to sauces had been omitted. Owner Nawar FOR Whether your style is confrontational providing the very best experience for all Miri responded swiftly, verifying the or passive, mastering the delicate art of guests and we regret this experience fell incident with his staff and then contacting appeasing disgruntled guests is worth the short of expectations.” Ross worked behind the diner privately. But in other cases, some effort. To start, public relations pros offer the scenes to explain the fire code to the complaints have been flat-out fake. FRONT-OF-HOUSE some guidance about how to deal with the TV station, cutting the boycott off before it –––––––– most common trolls. could gain traction. • The Danger: It’s a catch 22 If you refuse to respond, it looks like you Character Type: The Misguided Crusader Character Type: The Overzealous Advocate don’t care about diners’ concerns. Start a dialogue, and try to take the conversation About a year ago, a mother of a disabled During a staged protest, there’s little that offline. If you offer a free meal publicly, SUCCESS. child demanded to sit on a restaurant’s can be done to halt a demonstration, says everyone will want one. Even if a complaint patio and park her double stroller in a spot Andrew Freeman, founder of af&co., a seems suspicious, respond with an apology. blocking a fire exit. Staff refused because consulting firm in San Francisco—even An example from Ross: “We are committed it violated the local fire code. In response, if there’s little validity to the complaint. to providing the very best experience for the mother wrote a blistering Facebook Case in point: a screaming animal-rights all guests and we regret your experience post, claiming discrimination against her activist carrying baby chickens, at one fell short of expectations.” You can also say disabled child. of Freeman’s restaurant clients while you’re looking into the issue, she adds. berating staff and diners for serving and • The Danger: Small dust-ups can grow eating poultry. • The Solution into digital brush fires Respond to all complaints and even On Facebook, a single complaint can • The Danger: Inaction can be acknowledge positive reviews with a thank snowball with unprecedented speed. In perceived as weakness you. “I try to offer more than what they Confi dence for you. this case, the mother’s post went viral Thanks to cellphone videos and social ordered to get them to come back,” says Superior fl avor for your guests. after it was reshared by friends and other media, the shelf life and potential impact Miri. “Since it doesn’t happen very often, groups. Some even called for a boycott, of a boycott can be dangerous. Listening to giving away one free meal is a small price especially when the mother shared her post the concerns of advocates is one thing, but to pay to know that we did our part to Contact your Cargill Foodservice Sales with a local TV station. failing to respond to an abusive party will hopefully win the guest back.” n Representative today or call 800-227-4455.

© 2019 Cargill All Rights Reserved USFoods.com/foodfanatics | FOOD FANATICS 71 BEAT THE GREASE Don’t let grease catch you slipping. Monogram® Clean Force® degreaser products make it easy to keep your equipment clean and your kitchen running on time. IN THE BAG

Score with takeout by anticipating food safety risks

By ALISON GRANT

For more information or to order, visit usfoods.com or contact your US Foods® representative. EXCLUSIVE BRAND PHOTOGRAPHY BY LOGAN JEFFREY BY LOGAN PHOTOGRAPHY

© 2019 US Foods, Inc. 09-2019-FOF-2019082208 USFoods.com/foodfanatics | FOOD FANATICS 73 THE FIRST LINE OF ORDER ACCURACY IS UP TO THE QUALITY- THE CONTROL POSITION IN THE ❱ Delivery and takeout KITCHEN, AND THEN IT GOES TO customers have a piece THE OUTSIDE EXPEDITER FOR THE PERFECT FIT SECOND REVIEW. Monogram® Nitrile Powder-Free Natural Gloves of you even when they’re —BurgerFi chef Paul Griffin are ideal for any foodservice operation, slipping not in the restaurant. on, staying snug and holding up to the back-of- A lot can happen to the order from the time RISK: Food that Sits RISK: Invisible house grind. Ensure food safety and diner peace your food leaves the line until it lands on The longer food waits Foodborne Bacteria of mind with a glove that works as hard as you do. their plate. for pickup, the greater You can’t smell danger, Common sense doesn’t always prevail with the chance of bacterial whether it’s from cross- food safety so it’s always better to err on the contamination. The Food contamination or bacteria side of caution by reminding staff of potential and Drug Administration growing from food that’s dangers, especially when off-premise dining warns that middling been left out too long. shows no sign of slowing. A refresher: temperatures—between “People have the idea that 41 F and 135 F—can be whether food is dangerous RISK: One-Size unsafe. Bacteria grows or not has to do with, Containers rapidly in this range, ‘Does it smell? Did you get Food crammed into potentially doubling every dirt on it?’” says Shelley tight containers tends 20 minutes, Shaw says. Feist, executive director to ooze out, while large RISK: Tampered Takeout of Partnership for Food containers allow food to No one wants to see posts on social media accusing SOLUTION: Don’t pre- Safety Education. “They slop around and lose its the delivery driver of sampling the food. dress salads or sauce don’t think about the fact heat. Furthermore, says dishes. Package them that you can’t see, smell Lynn Dyer, president of the SOLUTION: Tamper-resistant packing is an separately in sealed or taste pathogens that Foodservice Packaging effective way to deter drivers from taking a taste containers, making sure cause illnesses.” Institute, improper while reassuring the recipient that the restaurant is not to pack cold items packaging negatively invested in good off-premise service. If the drivers next to warm ones. SOLUTION: Mandy impacts presentation. are not employed by a third-party service, schedule Consider designating a Sedlak, food safety “Your meal,” says Dyer, a “ride along” to check for telltale signs of potential takeout expeditor to keep manager for EcoSure, “may show up on neglect, including traces of food, dirty napkins and an outgoing orders flowing says anyone handling Instagram for the wrong unkempt vehicle, says Francine Shaw, chief executive smoothly from the kitchen food should wash their reason.” of Savvy Food Safety Inc., in Hagerstown, Maryland. to a pickup station, while hands with soap and coordinating pickups with water before doing so. SOLUTION: Take a cue delivery drivers. BurgerFi, Also, avoid all bare-hand from the pizza industry RISK: Slow Eaters a Palm Beach, Florida- contact with cooked and and find containers Even if your kitchen and couriers have done everything based chain, checks ready-to-eat food while it’s designed specifically for right, some customers get easily distracted and let orders twice. “The first prepared. If you’re using your offerings. “Choose their meals sit in their offices or on their kitchen tables line of order accuracy is your own drivers, consider a vented container that for too long. up to the quality-control paying for specialized allows enough heat position in the kitchen,” training. John Ryan’s to escape so as to not Include instructions. Consider adding a says BurgerFi chef Paul company Sanitary Cold compromise and sog up SOLUTION: Monogram Nitrile Powder-Free Gloves | APN 9650802 flyer or labels to your packaging, which advises diners Griffin, “and then it goes to Chain offers food-safety the texture of the food, but on how to store food and handle leftovers. Icons or the outside expediter for training and certification that holds enough heat For more information or to order, visit usfoods.com symbols help ensure universal understanding, says the second review.” to drivers in a 60-minute so when the food reaches ® EcoSure’s Sedlak. Basics instructions are best: Eat webinar that covers the customer it’s still at a or contact your US Foods representative. EXCLUSIVE food within two hours or within one hour if the ambient sanitation, temperature desirable temperature,” temperature is above 90 F; refrigerate food that will be control, auto cleanliness, says Nate Pollak, the BRAND eaten later; and when reheating hot dishes, bring the illnesses, personal hygiene owner of The American temp to at least 165 F. and care of the food. Grilled Cheese. n

© 2019 US Foods, Inc. 09-2019-FOF-2019082208 74 FOOD FANATICS | WINTER 2020 Coffee Reborn A modern take on pairing booze with the bean A CAREFULLY CRAFTED COCKTAIL FOR THE COFFEE LOVER

THE NIGHT OWL: 1850® COLD BREW OLD FASHIONED Ingredients Instructions 1850 cold brew coee concentrate (2 oz.) (3.5 cups 1. Combine coee, whiskey, simple syrup and bitters of water and 2.5 oz. frac pack, steep 12-24 hrs) in cocktail shaker filled with ice. Maker’s Mark Whiskey (1 oz.) 2. Shake until shaker is frosty, about 30 seconds. Simple syrup (1/2 oz.) 3. Strain into rocks glass. Garnish with orange peel Bitters, orange (dash) and cherry. Orange peel (1-inch strip) Maraschino cherry (1) WORKS WITH OUR VARIETY OF ROASTS!

Light Medium Dark Decaf

By JEFF RUBY Photography by EVA KOLENKO Learn more at SmuckerAwayFromHome.com/usf1850 Food Styling by ADAM PEARSON Prop Styling by AMY PALIWODA ©/TM/® The J.M. Smucker Company or by calling 1.877.335.4474 today. 29426 09/12/19

USFoods.com/foodfanatics | FOOD FANATICS 77 ®

The result is a lineup of coffee drinks that fruity and chocolate notes on the finish; rivals classic cocktails, as opposed to the and dark roasts add strong chocolate notes sugary booze-bombs of the past. “Tasting on the end. through your coffees and thinking of what “The negroni is a stirred drink that can flavors you want to accentuate or highlight be served over ice or straight up,” says is a great way to start creating a cocktail,” Matt Foster, a barista at Kaldi’s Coffee says Amanda Whitt, a New York–based Roasting Co., which has several cafes in coffee and cocktail consultant. St. Louis and the surrounding area. “Even Contrary to conventional wisdom, if you use a coffee that’s not concentrated, coffee-based cocktails are not more it won’t dilute the cocktail any more than expensive or time-consuming to produce an ice cube would.” Foster, who recently than traditional cocktails, as liquor still won the first U.S. Coffee in Good Spirits tends to be far more expensive than coffee. competition, does his spiced cold brew Cold brew concentrates, which can be negroni simply with a single ice cube, refrigerated for up to a week, have a longer an orange peel garnish and a sprinkle of shelf life than hot coffee that’s been chilled. cinnamon to offset the bitter tones. Plus, coffee cocktails allow restaurants to The Garden Table, a restaurant-juicer in open earlier and coffee shops to stay open Indianapolis, works with local purveyors later, thus offsetting rising urban rent to strengthen its cocktail program. To costs. Whitt reports that coffee cocktails entice skeptical sippers, beverage director often up ticket totals. “They are typically a Raymond Martin created a Banana Bluth, drink someone orders who will ‘hang’ and a drink inspired by the TV show “Arrested have one to three drinks,” she says. “Rather Development.” He envisioned a chocolate- 130 % OVER-INDEX than a simple grab-and-go order.” banana rum cocktail, but while building APPEAL WITH Ration and Dram, an innovative craft it, he subbed out chocolate for an Indy- MILLENNIALS* cocktail bar in Atlanta, makes its own based Tinker Coffee nitro cold brew and nitrogen-infused coffee, which it pours found the crisp berry aftertaste dovetailed cold from a keg. The result is creamy perfectly with all-natural Bumbu rum and and cascading, like a Guinness, but with creme de banana. But something was still an aggressive jolt rather than a lulling missing. “Then the Almond Bite (a local CRAFTED FOR TODAY’S affect. For the Speedy Gonzalez, Ration vegan, dairy-free liqueur) rep came by,” and Dram’s inspired brunch pick-me-up, says Martin. “And it was the missing piece COFFEE CONNOISSEURS. mixologist/partner Andy Minchow tops a to the puzzle.” Spiced Cold Brew Negroni ❱ mix of Vida mezcal, fernet and agave nectar Beatrix, an all-day spot in Chicago, A new generation Inspired by rich heritage and craftsmanship, 1850® Brand Coffee Matt Foster of coffee cocktails is percolating greater with 3 ounces of the house nitro coffee to takes advantage of the versatility of coffee delivers a bold, smooth lineup of fire-roasted, steel cut premium Kaldi’s, St. Louis interest at bars and coffee shops. Some produce a rich cocktail that balances sweet, cocktails by offering untraditional espresso coffees to customers who increasingly seek premium coffee options. are experimenting with bottled cold bitter and smoky. “It’s a punch-you-in-the- old fashioneds at all three meals. The drink 1 ounce gin 1 ounce cold brew coffee brews and using hot espresso to upgrade face-and-wake-you-up kind of cocktail,” bridges Beatrix’s dedicated coffee bar and ½ ounce Campari espresso martinis while roasters are says Minchow, who also calls it a “one-and- its ambitious bar program: At brunch, ½ ounce punt e mes partnering with distillers to create coffee done” drink. “I had one guy order two—and customers sip them over eggs; at dinner, Orange peel, to garnish spirits, including a coffee vodka from that was that.” people pound them like any other cocktail. Cinnamon, to garnish Central Standard in Milwaukee and a Coffee-spiked negronis are particularly Beatrix mixes its espresso with syrup, coffee amaro pazzo made by Long Road hot at the moment because the bitterness which enables it to hold its flavor—and Combine liquids in a glass over a single ice Distillers and Madcap Coffee in Grand of Campari and coffee meld seamlessly. hold its own with molasses-tinged Buffalo cube. Garnish with orange peel and a sprinkle Rapids, Michigan. Plus, bartenders can use any kind of coffee Trace bourbon, spiced Cruzan Black Strap Light Medium Dark Decaf of cinnamon. Makes 1 serving. Then there’s the experimental crowd— to keep costs down. The acidic nature Rum, and chocolate bitters. “Barrel-aged including The Aviary in Chicago and of washed coffees, so named because spirits can have notes of coffee and cocoa,” Kobrick Coffee Co. in New York—which the outer layer of each beans is removed says John Economos, a partner. “This Learn more at SmuckerAwayFromHome.com/usf1850 are using siphon coffee brewers to infuse before they’re washed with water, cocktail highlights those flavors more, and or by calling 1.877.335.4474 today. hot cocktails or an AeroPress to slip a shot complement the citrus flavors from the the inclusion of Black Strap Rum gives the of caffeine into classic old-fashioneds. Campari; light roasted coffees add slightly drink a burnt sugar-pancake type flavor.” n

* Mintel, Innovation on the Menu, 2017

©/TM/® The J.M. Smucker Company 78 FOOD FANATICS | WINTER 2020 29426 09/11/19 USFoods.com/foodfanatics | FOOD FANATICS 79 HE NMERS Play these numbers for a bigger payout Heal Appeal Should menus dive into functional foods, the ingredients that can impact health beyond basic nutrition? Weigh the numbers. Ubiquitous ingredients perceived to have “significant benefits.” 72% DARK LEAFY GREEN VEGETABLES 69% CRUCIFEROUS VEGETABLES Fire One of These Benefits consumers would choose 68% AVOCADO if they’re available on menus: HEALTH 45% 68% BLUEBERRIES …And in which foods? ENERGY 43% SANDWICHES 44% 65% NUTS WEIGHT MANAGEMENT 40% SALADS 43% GUTDIGESTIVE HEALTH 35% SOUPS 39% 62% APPLES IMMUNITY 33% APPETIZERS 39% FATTY FISH ANTI-INFLAMMATORY 32% JUICES 37% 62% BURGERS 36% STRESS REDUCTION 32% 58% BREAKFAST EGG LONGER LIFE 30% SANDWICHES 33% 58% WHOLE PIZZA 32% COFFEETEA 29% 57% TOMATOES

CONSUMERS WHO: HOT TOPICS Lesser-known, emerging ingredients/foods perceived to have "significant" health benefits:

SHOW SOME ID 46% LAXSEED 40% TRMERI VEY

46% A E L Consumers 42% 75% 78% want symbols OLD PRESS ERMENTED IES VEETALES next to functional 39% 33% TION BY KRIS T Will go out of Want to eat healthy Want more foods while

their way for a and know that the food/beverages ILLUSTR A restaurant with food is “positively with functional ONE a functional impacting my ability health benefits at 35% ROTH ANNAIS ingredient. to perform, combat restaurants. want a separate 30% 28% diseases, etc.” menu section.

80 FOOD FANATICS | WINTER 2020 Source: Datassential 2018 Functional Food study *Based on 19 health-related influences PLANT-BASEDdelicious, SNACKS * to go!

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