The Canadian Wheat Board, Warburtons, and the Creative

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The Canadian Wheat Board, Warburtons, and the Creative The Canadian Wheat Board and the creative re- constitution of the Canada-UK wheat trade: wheat and bread in food regime history by André J. R. Magnan A thesis submitted in conformity with the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy Graduate Department of Sociology University of Toronto © Copyright by André Magnan 2010. Abstract Title: The Canadian Wheat Board and the creative re-constitution of the Canada-UK wheat trade: wheat and bread in food regime history Author: André J. R. Magnan Submitted in conformity with the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy Graduate Department of Sociology University of Toronto, 2010. This dissertation traces the historical transformation of the Canada-UK commodity chain for wheat-bread as a lens on processes of local and global change in agrofood relations. During the 1990s, the Canadian Wheat Board (Canada‟s monopoly wheat seller) and Warburtons, a British bakery, pioneered an innovative identity- preserved sourcing relationship that ties contracted prairie farmers to consumers of premium bread in the UK. Emblematic of the increasing importance of quality claims, traceability, and private standards in the reorganization of agrifood supply chains, I argue that the changes of the 1990s cannot be understood outside of historical legacies giving shape to unique institutions for regulating agrofood relations on the Canadian prairies and in the UK food sector. I trace the rise, fall, and re-invention of the Canada-UK commodity chain across successive food regimes, examining the changing significance of wheat- bread, inter-state relations between Canada, the UK, and the US, and public and private forms of agrofood regulation over time. In particular, I focus on the way in which changing food regime relations transformed the CWB, understood as the nexus of institutions tying prairie farmers into global circuits of accumulation. When in the 1990s, the CWB and Warburtons responded to structural crises in their respective industries by re-inventing the Canada-UK wheat trade, the result was significant organizational and industry change. On the prairies, the CWB has shown how – contrary to expectations -- ii centralized marketing and quality control may help prairie farmers adapt to the demands of end-users in the emerging „economy of qualities‟. In the UK, Warburtons has led the „premiumisation‟ of the bread sector, traditionally defined by consumer taste for cheap bread, over the last 15 years. The significance of the shift towards quality chains in the wheat-bread sector is analyzed in light of conflicts over the proposed introduction of genetically engineered (GE) wheat to the Canadian prairies. iii Acknowledgements Like any long journey, a doctoral program requires good travelling companions. In this regard, I have been very lucky. I would like to express my thanks to all of the faculty members with whom I had the pleasure of working during my time in Toronto. In particular, I am grateful for the encouragement and mentorship of Jack Veugelers and John Myles. My work has benefited enormously from the guidance and commitment of my supervisory committee members, Josée Johnston and John Hannigan. My thesis supervisor, Harriet Friedmann, has been a constant source of support and inspiration in my intellectual development. I am grateful, in particular, for her patience and wisdom in helping me to see a little further and probe a little deeper in grappling with the questions that have inspired this dissertation. She has been a generous critic, friend, and mentor. I would like to thank all of those who gave generously of their time to be interviewed for my thesis project. Their insights help bring to life this work in a way that statistics, reports, and the academic literature could not, on their own. I would like to acknowledge the financial support of the Ontario Graduate Scholarship and the Social Sciences and Humanities Research Council, which provided me with a doctoral fellowship for part of my studies. For their invaluable moral, emotional, and material support, I thank my family. I owe my love of learning to my parents, Denis and Marilyn Magnan, and their unfailing love and support sustain me still. Lee Knuttila, Wendee Kubik, and Murray Knuttila have shared with me many of the trials and triumphs of the PhD process – for that, my heartfelt thanks. My children – Maëlle, Pascal, and Rose-Léa – have provided me with the purpose and perspective necessary to see this project through. To them, I owe iv everything. Finally, I want to express my gratitude to Erin Knuttila, for her patience through this process, and for enriching my life in more ways than can be expressed. v Table of Contents Abstract ............................................................................................................................... ii Acknowledgements ............................................................................................................ iv Table of Contents ............................................................................................................... vi List of Tables ..................................................................................................................... ix List of Figures ..................................................................................................................... x List of Acronyms ............................................................................................................... xi Chapter 1 - Introduction ...................................................................................................... 1 Overview of chapters .................................................................................................... 13 Key findings .................................................................................................................. 22 Chapter 2 – Theories and Literatures ................................................................................ 24 The economy of qualities .............................................................................................. 26 Towards „worlds of food‟ ......................................................................................... 33 Wheat and bread in the economy of qualities ........................................................... 35 Food regimes ................................................................................................................. 39 Food regime history .................................................................................................. 47 A third food regime? Interpreting current agrofood change ..................................... 62 The wheat-bread commodity chain in food regime transition ...................................... 64 Political economy of prairie grain marketing ............................................................... 70 History of the UK food sector ....................................................................................... 75 Conclusion .................................................................................................................... 77 Chapter 3 - Methods: Historical political economy of agrofood relations ....................... 78 Method in macro-historical sociology .......................................................................... 78 Methods in agrofood studies: commodity chain analysis and food regimes ................ 84 Incorporated comparisons in the Canada-UK commodity chain for wheat-bread ....... 88 Evidence and data ......................................................................................................... 92 Secondary historical sources ..................................................................................... 93 Statistical sources ...................................................................................................... 95 Newspaper and trade sources .................................................................................... 95 Key informant interviews ......................................................................................... 96 Conclusion .................................................................................................................. 101 Chapter 4 – The Canada-UK commodity chain for wheat bread (1870-1945) ............... 102 The UK-centred food regime ...................................................................................... 104 Forging the prairie wheat economy ........................................................................ 105 The UK food import market ................................................................................... 115 Food regime crisis: 1914-1945 ................................................................................... 126 The emergence of the CWB ........................................................................................ 128 Early experimentation: The first CWB and the prairie wheat pools ....................... 128 Crisis and the return of state-marketing .................................................................. 132 World War II and monopoly control ...................................................................... 137 Food regime crisis and the transformation of the British food sector......................... 140 World War I: the state, nutrition, and rationing bread quality ................................ 140 The interwar years..................................................................................................
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