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Deadly Sins Deadly Sins GLUTEN-FREE the Deadly Sins 7of Gluten-Free Bread ...AND HOW TO AVOID THEM by Christopher Anderson you’ve tried living gluten-free texture, or gummy, mushy loaves. You The role of gluten in baking If for more than five minutes, can say good-bye to gritty, papery slices you know only too well that most of the that butter will not melt on. And you will In order to understand the problems with gluten-free bread out there … well, let’s be be done with bread that has either no most gluten-free flours, you need to first honest, it sucks. But do you know why? taste at all or an unpleasant beany flavor. learn a bit about the nature of traditional flour. Wheat flour is milled from wheat berries, which contain starches, proteins, In fact, there are a number of reasons, and fats. The primary proteins in wheat which you’ll soon learn. But the good Sin 1: flour are glutenin and gliadin. Glutenin news is that it doesn’t have to be that way. provides most of the strength and If you are pursuing a gluten-free lifestyle Using the wrong type elasticity in dough, allowing it to bounce either out of necessity or by choice, you of flour back after it is stretched. Gliadin, on the can still eat bread that is both good other hand, provides the stretch. tasting and good for you. Good bread starts with good flour. The flour you use will influence both the On their own, glutenin and gliadin are just Once you discover the secrets that I will taste and the texture of the bread. This is lifeless strands wrapped around granules of reveal here, you will never again have to especially true for gluten-free flours, so starch. But they transform when they come settle for squat bricks with a cardboard it is important to make the right choice. in contact with water, a process known 7 | structure that professional bakers refer to as a “good crumb.” A third factor is the mixing time of the dough or batter—the longer it’s mixed, the more gluten forms. That’s why cake or muffin batter is gently stirred until it’s just combined, whereas bread dough is kneaded extensively. No such thing as “all-purpose” gluten-free flour Perhaps you’ve seen, or have even bought, “all-purpose” gluten-free flour. Seems convenient, right? Unfortunately, it’s a marketing ploy, as there is simply no one-size-fits-all solution. If you want to remove wheat flour from your favorite recipe, you need to think about the role that flour is playing in the recipe in order to choose the right substitute. Remember that wheat flour contains both protein and starch. That means that the appropriate substitute will vary, because some recipes rely on one but not the other. In baking, the main role of gluten is to provide structure. Finding an alternative to replicate this structure is especially challenging because most gluten-free flours contain less protein than wheat, so they don’t do as good a job of holding the starch granules or trapping air bubbles. The proteins that they do contain are also generally less elastic than gluten. So, in as hydration. Once wet, the protein of developing more gluten and thus order to replace wheat flour with a lower- molecules link up with one another and better structure. The result is ideal protein option, like rice flour, you must form long elastic chains called gluten. for chewy artisan bread. Cake flour, boost the effectiveness of that protein on the other hand, is made from low- (which you’ll learn about soon). These gluten strands combine to form protein wheat, so it produces less a network that traps swollen starch gluten, which is perfect for tender No beans, please granules and gas bubbles produced cakes. Traditional all-purpose flours Many gluten-free cookbooks advocate by yeast or chemical leaveners. This typically fall in between the two in the use of bean flours, like those made network stretches as the batter or terms of protein content. from garbanzo or fava beans, because dough rises and then solidifies, giving beans are high in protein. The major the finished bread or other baked good Gluten development is also affected problem with this approach is that these its structure and “chew” (texture). by the amount of water present. The flours have a distinctive beany flavor. more water that a dough or batter Not that there is anything wrong with Several factors can affect gluten contains, the stronger and more elastic the taste of beans, but it is an odd and development. One is the flour itself. the gluten will be. This additional unexpected flavor to encounter in baked Bread flour is typically milled from strength and elasticity produce an bread. And when it’s used in sweet baked high-protein wheat, which is capable airier bread, with an interior hole goods, it is so out of place that it can be | 8 GLUTEN-FREE Gluten-free bread dough does not have the firm texture and structure of traditional wheat dough (a consequence of saying farewell to gluten). As a result, it doesn’t hold its shape well without support, so the pan you use to bake it has a significant impact on how it turns out. If the pan is too big, the bread will turn out flatter and denser than it should be. If you’ve ever had sandwich bread that’s not tall enough to slice for sandwiches, you know what I’m talking about. The solution is to use a pan that properly supports the dough as it’s rising during both the proofing (the period when the dough rises) and the baking stages. One option is to buy a pan specially designed for gluten-free bread. These pans have higher sides than normal bread pans to give the dough more vertical support. If you don’t have one of these pans, don’t worry. With a little extra effort and creativity you can jerry-rig a solution. Start with a 1-pound (8½" x 4½") bread pan rather than a 1½-pound (9" x 5") pan. Then use aluminum foil to form a downright … well, disgusting. So, unless greasy feel in the finished product. While collar around the rim of the pan so that you’re looking to make bean cookies or this is true of both white and brown rice it rises about an inch above the top of the bean bread, I recommend you steer clear flours, the problem is potentially worse pan. This technique (which is often used of bean flours and commercial mixes with brown rice because it also contains for making soufflés) will give the dough that contain them for your baking. bran, making it coarser and therefore the extra support it needs for more grittier. Brown rice also has a short shelf vertical lift. Down to the nitty-gritty life and can impart an unwelcome earthy flavor to bread. Another common substitute for wheat flour is rice flour, which has a more neutral In summary, if you want the right flour, Sin 3: taste than bean flour but isn’t perfect by make sure it has a neutral taste and the Using not enough itself either. Rice flour has less protein right balance of protein and starch, and liquid than wheat flour and a much higher that it is ground sufficiently fine. starch content. This can lead to that gritty The wetter the better mouthfeel that people tend to associate with many gluten-free baked goods. Even if you use the right gluten-free Sin 2: flour and an appropriate pan, your But that may not be the only reason your Using the wrong pan bread may still have some problems. As baked goods taste gritty. It could also be I mentioned, the more water you add due to the texture of the flour itself. If the If you’ve ever baked your own gluten- to traditional wheat flour, the stronger rice isn’t finely ground, you’re left with free bread, or even bought some from the the gluten networks become, so you get coarse granules that you’ll be able to feel store, then you’re probably familiar with bread that’s airy and has good structure when you bite into the bread. Not only what I call “the brick.” The first loaf I ever and chew. that, but the coarser the flour, the less baked turned out so small and dense I liquid and fat it is able to absorb. This can was tempted to use it as a paperweight. But does adding more water help gluten- lead to a mushy texture and an unpleasant So, what’s going on here? free bread? Absolutely! 9 | In fact, most gluten-free flours are best Guar gum is a powdered extract from mixed into something that actually the seeds of the guar bean. It works resembles cookie dough more than it Sin 4: like xanthan but without the excessive does traditional bread dough. There are Using the wrong gumminess. However, it is quite high in several reasons for this. For one thing, as binder fiber and can thus have a laxative effect. already mentioned, gluten-free flour— It also tends to create a slightly starchy especially rice flour—cannot absorb as You’ve already learned that one of the texture in baked goods and can impart a much liquid as wheat flour can. major jobs performed by gluten in the beany flavor.
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