The Best of Argentina & Chile Argentina
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05_584391 ch01.qxd 5/17/05 7:18 PM Page 7 1 The Best of Argentina & Chile Argentina and Chile—separated by the serrated peaks of the Andes Moun- tains—combine to blanket the southern half of South America; the distance from Chile’s northern tip to the southern tail of Argentina’s Tierra del Fuego spans almost 4,830km (2,995 miles). And the scope of experiences you can find here is no less grand: from the cosmopolitan bustle of Buenos Aires to the des- olate moonscape of Chile’s Atacama Desert, from the tropical jungles and thun- derous falls of Iguazú to the tundra and glaciers of Torres del Paine National Park. Whether you’ve come to meander the quiet towns of Chile’s Lake District or dance the night away in a smoky, low-lit Argentine tango bar, your trip to the Southern Hemisphere won’t disappoint. In this chapter, we’ve selected the best that Argentina and Chile have to offer—museums, outdoor adventures, hotels, and more. 1 The Most Unforgettable Travel Experiences • Learning to Dance Tango in famous for the brightly colored Buenos Aires: Salones de baile, as sheet-metal houses that border it tango salons are called, blanket and for the sculptures, paintings, the city; the most famous are in and wall murals you’ll find along San Telmo. In these salons, you the street. Performers and dancers can watch traditional Argentine are here every day. See p. 62. tango danced by all generations, • Bronzing in Punta del Este in and most offer lessons before the Summer: As Porteños (residents of floor opens up to dancers. You Buenos Aires) will tell you, anyone won’t find many novices on the who has a peso left to travel on dance floor after midnight, how- heads to Punta del Este for sum- ever. See chapter 3. mer vacation. This glitzy Atlantic • Visiting the Recoleta Cemetery: coast resort in Uruguay is packed This beautiful cemetery in Buenos with South America’s jet set from Aires houses enormous, expensive December to February and offers mausoleums competing for inviting beaches and outstanding grandeur—aCOPYRIGHTED place where people nightlife.MATERIAL See chapter 4. can remain rich, even after death. • Visiting Iguazú Falls: One of the Among the only nonaristocrats world’s most spectacular sights, buried here is Eva Perón, or Iguazú boasts over 275 waterfalls “Evita.” See p. 65. fed by the Iguazú River. In addi- • Wandering the Caminito Pedes- tion to the falls, Iguazú encom- trian Walkway in La Boca: Cap- passes a marvelous subtropical ture the flavor of early Buenos jungle with extensive flora and Aires on this short historic street, fauna. See chapter 5. which is also considered an out- • Riding the “Train to the door museum. The Caminito is Clouds”: The Tren a las Nubes is 05_584391 ch01.qxd 5/17/05 7:18 PM Page 8 8 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF ARGENTINA & CHILE one of the world’s great railroad • Seeing a Million Penguins experiences. The journey through Guarding Their Nests: Every Argentina’s Northwest takes you autumn, over a million penguins 434km (269 miles) through tun- return to mate on a hillside over- nels, turns, and bridges, culminat- looking the Atlantic, in a remote ing in the breathtaking La area of Patagonia. At Punta Polvorilla viaduct. You will cross Tombo National Reserve, you can magnificent landscapes, making walk among these friendly crea- your way from the multicolored tures and, if you’re lucky, get to see Lerma valley through the deep them guarding the babies in their canyons and rugged peaks of the nests. See p. 434. Quebrada del Toro, and on to the • Waking Up in Santiago After a desolate desert plateau of La Puña. Rainstorm: Santiago is a magnifi- See p. 110. cent city, but it’s usually hidden • Traveling the Wine Roads of under a blanket of smog that Mendoza: Less commercialized would make even Paris look like than their European and Ameri- Detroit. If you’re lucky enough to can counterparts, Mendoza’s catch Santiago after a rainstorm wineries are free to visit and easily has cleared the skies, try to make it accessible along roads known to the top of Cerro San Cristóbal locally as los Caminos del Vino. for a breathtaking view of the city There are about 80 wineries that spread below the towering, snow- formally offer tours and tastings. capped Andes. Few cityscapes in See chapter 8. the world compare. See “Barrio • Sailing Through the Andes Bellavista & Parque Metropoli- Between Chile & Argentina: tano” under “Seeing the Sights,” Why fly or drive when you can on p. 248. sail through the Andes? Two com- • Exploring the Madcap Streets of panies work together to provide Valparaíso: The ramshackle, col- boat journeys between Ensenada, orful, and sinuous streets of Val- Chile, and Bariloche, Argentina. paraíso offer a walking tour unlike It’s a very low-key affair and a any other. Apart from the pictur- cruise that’s worth the journey esque Victorian mansions and tin only on a clear day and if a traveler houses that seem cut into every has ample time to spare. The shape possible, terraced walkways cruise takes visitors through the wind around the various hills that emerald waters of Lago Todos los shoot up from downtown, and Santos and the rugged peaks and there are plenty of antique funicu- rainforest of Vicente Pérez Rosales lars to lift you to the top. Great National Park in Chile, and in restaurants and cafes can be found Argentina across Lake Nahuel at every turn to rest aching feet. Huapi to Puerto Blest. The trip Plus, Valparaíso’s faded remains of can be done in 1 or 2 days. See this once-thriving port town are “Essentials” under “San Carlos de receiving a much-needed face-lift. Bariloche,” on p. 154, and “Fruti- See chapter 13. llar, Puerto Octay, Puerto Varas, • Catching a Full Moon or Lago Llanquihue, Ensenada, Par- Stargazing in the Valle de la que Nacional Vicente Pérez Ros- Luna: Nothing could be more ales & the Lake Crossing to appropriate, or dreamier, than an Argentina” on p. 353. evening under the glow of a full moon in the Valley of the Moon. 05_584391 ch01.qxd 5/17/05 7:18 PM Page 9 THE BEST CHARMING SMALL TOWNS 9 This region of the Atacama Desert volcanoes, but they also produce was named for its otherworldly steaming mineralized water that is land formations and salt- used to fill hot-springs complexes encrusted canyons that suppos- from the desert north to the Aisén edly resemble the surface of the region. Chileans often take to moon, a comparison that is hard these waters to relieve arthritis and to dispute, especially when these rheumatism problems, but most formations are cast under an eerie take a soothing soak just to relax. nighttime glow. Days later, when These hot springs seem to have the moon has waned, the Ata- been magically paired by nature cama’s unusually clear night skies with outdoor adventure spots, provide one of the best stargazing making for a thankful way to end opportunities in the world. See a day of activity. The Lake District chapter 14 for tours of the area. is a noted “hot spot,” especially • Sailing or Kayaking the “Emer- around Pucón (don’t miss Termas ald City,” the Fjords of South- Geométricas). See chapter 15. ern Chile: This far-flung region • Driving the Carretera Austral: of pristine fjords is Chile’s most It’s a tough, crunchy drive along remote territory, and it is accessi- 1,000km (620 miles) of gravel ble only by kayak or boat—but it road, but that is precisely why is an adventure open to all ability Chile’s “Southern Highway” has levels and pocketbooks. You can kept the crowds at bay. This natu- take a 3-day sail aboard a passen- ral wonderland, saturated in green ger and cargo ferry from Puerto and hemmed in by jagged, snow- Montt to Puerto Natales. Alterna- capped peaks, offers a journey for tively, two luxury ships lead those seeking to travel through cruises through the southern some of Chile’s most remote and fjords and directly to the face of stunning territory. It can be done the Laguna San Rafael Glacier. in a variety of directions and seg- But travelers who are in good ments, but you’ll need a rental car shape will find the most enjoy- to experience it right. There are ment from paddling a kayak and plenty of great stops along the quietly savoring the solitude and way, including rainforest walks, exotic rainforest that blankets the idyllic mountain valley of these dramatic fjords, said by trav- Futaleufú, the wet primeval forest elers to be more impressive than of Parque Quelat, Puyuhuapi and those in Norway. See chapter 15. its luxury thermal spas, and the • Soaking in Hot Springs: The city of Coyhaique. See chapter 17. volatile Andes not only build 2 The Best Charming Small Towns • Colonia del Sacramento, makes a perfect day trip. See chap- Uruguay: Just a short ferry trip ter 4. from Buenos Aires, Colonia is • Salta, Argentina: Salta sits in the Uruguay’s best example of colonial Lerma valley of Argentina’s North- life. The Old Neighborhood con- west, with an eternal springlike cli- tains brilliant examples of colonial mate, and boasts Argentina’s wealth and many of Uruguay’s best-preserved colonial architec- oldest structures. Dating from the ture. It’s surrounded by the fertile 17th century, this beautifully pre- valley of the provincial capital, the served Portuguese settlement polychrome canyons of Cafayate, 05_584391 ch01.qxd 5/17/05 7:18 PM Page 10 10 CHAPTER 1 .