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1 The Best of & Chile

Argentina and Chile—separated by the serrated peaks of the Moun- tains—combine to blanket the southern half of South America; the distance from Chile’s northern tip to the southern tail of Argentina’s Tierra del Fuego spans almost 4,830km (2,995 miles). And the scope of experiences you can find here is no less grand: from the cosmopolitan bustle of Buenos Aires to the des- olate moonscape of Chile’s Atacama Desert, from the tropical jungles and thun- derous falls of Iguazú to the tundra and glaciers of Torres del Paine National Park. Whether you’ve come to meander the quiet towns of Chile’s Lake District or dance the night away in a smoky, low-lit Argentine tango bar, your trip to the Southern Hemisphere won’t disappoint. In this chapter, we’ve selected the best that Argentina and Chile have to offer—museums, outdoor adventures, hotels, and more.

1 The Most Unforgettable Travel Experiences • Learning to Dance Tango in famous for the brightly colored Buenos Aires: Salones de baile, as sheet-metal houses that border it tango salons are called, blanket and for the sculptures, paintings, the city; the most famous are in and wall murals you’ll find along San Telmo. In these salons, you the street. Performers and dancers can watch traditional Argentine are here every day. See p. 62. tango danced by all generations, • Bronzing in Punta del Este in and most offer lessons before the Summer: As Porteños (residents of floor opens up to dancers. You Buenos Aires) will tell you, anyone won’t find many novices on the who has a peso left to travel on dance floor after midnight, how- heads to Punta del Este for sum- ever. See chapter 3. mer vacation. This glitzy Atlantic • Visiting the Recoleta Cemetery: coast resort in Uruguay is packed This beautiful cemetery in Buenos with South America’s jet set from Aires houses enormous, expensive December to February and offers mausoleums competing for inviting beaches and outstanding grandeur—aCOPYRIGHTED place where people nightlife.MATERIAL See chapter 4. can remain rich, even after death. • Visiting Iguazú Falls: One of the Among the only nonaristocrats world’s most spectacular sights, buried here is Eva Perón, or Iguazú boasts over 275 waterfalls “Evita.” See p. 65. fed by the Iguazú River. In addi- • Wandering the Caminito Pedes- tion to the falls, Iguazú encom- trian Walkway in La Boca: Cap- passes a marvelous subtropical ture the flavor of early Buenos jungle with extensive flora and Aires on this short historic street, fauna. See chapter 5. which is also considered an out- • Riding the “Train to the door museum. The Caminito is Clouds”: The is 05_584391 ch01.qxd 5/17/05 7:18 PM Page 8

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one of the world’s great railroad • Seeing a Million Penguins experiences. The journey through Guarding Their Nests: Every Argentina’s Northwest takes you autumn, over a million penguins 434km (269 miles) through tun- return to mate on a hillside over- nels, turns, and bridges, culminat- looking the Atlantic, in a remote ing in the breathtaking La area of Patagonia. At Punta Polvorilla viaduct. You will cross Tombo National Reserve, you can magnificent landscapes, making walk among these friendly crea- your way from the multicolored tures and, if you’re lucky, get to see Lerma valley through the deep them guarding the babies in their canyons and rugged peaks of the nests. See p. 434. Quebrada del Toro, and on to the • Waking Up in Santiago After a desolate desert plateau of La Puña. Rainstorm: Santiago is a magnifi- See p. 110. cent city, but it’s usually hidden • Traveling the Wine Roads of under a blanket of smog that Mendoza: Less commercialized would make even Paris look like than their European and Ameri- Detroit. If you’re lucky enough to can counterparts, Mendoza’s catch Santiago after a rainstorm wineries are free to visit and easily has cleared the skies, try to make it accessible along roads known to the top of Cerro San Cristóbal locally as los Caminos del Vino. for a breathtaking view of the city There are about 80 wineries that spread below the towering, snow- formally offer tours and tastings. capped Andes. Few cityscapes in See chapter 8. the world compare. See “Barrio • Sailing Through the Andes Bellavista & Parque Metropoli- Between Chile & Argentina: tano” under “Seeing the Sights,” Why fly or drive when you can on p. 248. sail through the Andes? Two com- • Exploring the Madcap Streets of panies work together to provide Valparaíso: The ramshackle, col- boat journeys between Ensenada, orful, and sinuous streets of Val- Chile, and Bariloche, Argentina. paraíso offer a walking tour unlike It’s a very low-key affair and a any other. Apart from the pictur- cruise that’s worth the journey esque Victorian mansions and tin only on a clear day and if a traveler houses that seem cut into every has ample time to spare. The shape possible, terraced walkways cruise takes visitors through the wind around the various hills that emerald waters of Lago Todos los shoot up from downtown, and Santos and the rugged peaks and there are plenty of antique funicu- rainforest of Vicente Pérez Rosales lars to lift you to the top. Great National Park in Chile, and in restaurants and cafes can be found Argentina across Lake Nahuel at every turn to rest aching feet. Huapi to Puerto Blest. The trip Plus, Valparaíso’s faded remains of can be done in 1 or 2 days. See this once-thriving port town are “Essentials” under “San Carlos de receiving a much-needed face-lift. Bariloche,” on p. 154, and “Fruti- See chapter 13. llar, Puerto Octay, Puerto Varas, • Catching a Full Moon or Lago Llanquihue, Ensenada, Par- Stargazing in the Valle de la que Nacional Vicente Pérez Ros- Luna: Nothing could be more ales & the Lake Crossing to appropriate, or dreamier, than an Argentina” on p. 353. evening under the glow of a full moon in the Valley of the Moon. 05_584391 ch01.qxd 5/17/05 7:18 PM Page 9

THE BEST CHARMING SMALL TOWNS 9

This region of the Atacama Desert volcanoes, but they also produce was named for its otherworldly steaming mineralized water that is land formations and salt- used to fill hot-springs complexes encrusted canyons that suppos- from the desert north to the Aisén edly resemble the surface of the region. Chileans often take to moon, a comparison that is hard these waters to relieve arthritis and to dispute, especially when these rheumatism problems, but most formations are cast under an eerie take a soothing soak just to relax. nighttime glow. Days later, when These hot springs seem to have the moon has waned, the Ata- been magically paired by nature cama’s unusually clear night skies with outdoor adventure spots, provide one of the best stargazing making for a thankful way to end opportunities in the world. See a day of activity. The Lake District chapter 14 for tours of the area. is a noted “hot spot,” especially • Sailing or Kayaking the “Emer- around Pucón (don’t miss Termas ald City,” the Fjords of South- Geométricas). See chapter 15. ern Chile: This far-flung region • Driving the Carretera Austral: of pristine fjords is Chile’s most It’s a tough, crunchy drive along remote territory, and it is accessi- 1,000km (620 miles) of gravel ble only by kayak or boat—but it road, but that is precisely why is an adventure open to all ability Chile’s “Southern Highway” has levels and pocketbooks. You can kept the crowds at bay. This natu- take a 3-day sail aboard a passen- ral wonderland, saturated in green ger and cargo ferry from Puerto and hemmed in by jagged, snow- Montt to Puerto Natales. Alterna- capped peaks, offers a journey for tively, two luxury ships lead those seeking to travel through cruises through the southern some of Chile’s most remote and fjords and directly to the face of stunning territory. It can be done the Laguna San Rafael Glacier. in a variety of directions and seg- But travelers who are in good ments, but you’ll need a rental car shape will find the most enjoy- to experience it right. There are ment from paddling a kayak and plenty of great stops along the quietly savoring the solitude and way, including rainforest walks, exotic rainforest that blankets the idyllic mountain valley of these dramatic fjords, said by trav- Futaleufú, the wet primeval forest elers to be more impressive than of Parque Quelat, Puyuhuapi and those in Norway. See chapter 15. its luxury thermal spas, and the • Soaking in Hot Springs: The city of Coyhaique. See chapter 17. volatile Andes not only build

2 The Best Charming Small Towns • Colonia del Sacramento, makes a perfect day trip. See chap- Uruguay: Just a short ferry trip ter 4. from Buenos Aires, Colonia is • , Argentina: Salta sits in the Uruguay’s best example of colonial Lerma valley of Argentina’s North- life. The Old Neighborhood con- west, with an eternal springlike cli- tains brilliant examples of colonial mate, and boasts Argentina’s wealth and many of Uruguay’s best-preserved colonial architec- oldest structures. Dating from the ture. It’s surrounded by the fertile 17th century, this beautifully pre- valley of the provincial capital, the served Portuguese settlement polychrome canyons of Cafayate, 05_584391 ch01.qxd 5/17/05 7:18 PM Page 10

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and the desolate plateau of La the location is sumptuous. See Puña. See chapter 6. chapter 9. • Villa Carlos Paz, Argentina: A • San Pedro de Atacama, Chile: quick getaway from Córdoba, Quaint, unhurried, and built of Villa Carlos Paz surrounds the adobe brick, San Pedro de Ata- picturesque Ebalse San Roque. cama has drawn Santiaguinos (res- Although it’s actually a reservoir, idents of Santiago) and expatriates vacationers treat San Roque like a the world over to experience the lake, swimming, sailing, and mellow charm and New Age spir- windsurfing in its gentle waters. ituality that wafts through the Year-round, people come to Car- dusty roads of this town. Its loca- los Paz to enjoy outdoor activities tion in the driest desert in the by day and party by night. See world makes for starry skies and chapter 7. breathtaking views of the weird • La Falda, Argentina: An excellent and wonderful land formations base from which to explore the that are just a stone’s throw away. Punilla, La Falda lies between the See chapter 14. Valle Hermoso (Beautiful Valley) • Pucón, Chile: Not only was Pucón and the Sierras Chicas. Argentines bestowed with a stunning location come here for rest and relaxation, at the skirt of a smoking volcano not wild entertainment. Crisp, and the shore of a glittering lake, clean air; wonderful hikes; and but it’s also Chile’s self-proclaimed quiet hotels are the draw. See adventure capital, offering a chapter 7. plethora of outdoor activities. But • San Martín de los Andes, Pucón also has plenty of low-key Argentina: City planners in San activities if your idea of a vacation Martín had the sense to do what is plopping yourself down on a Bariloche never thought of: to beach. You’ll find everything you limit building height to two sto- want and need without forfeiting ries and to mandate continuity in small-town charm (that is, if you the town’s alpine architecture. The don’t come with the Jan–Feb result? Bariloche is crass, whereas crowds). Wood-hewn restaurants, San Martín is class, and the town pubs, and crafts stores fill down- is a year-round playground, to town, blending harmoniously with boot. Relax, swim, bike, ski, raft, the forested surroundings. See hunt, or fish—this small town has chapter 15. it all. See chapter 9. • Frutillar & Puerto Varas, Chile: • Villa La Angostura, Argentina: Built by German immigrants who Villa La Angostura has everything settled here in the early 1900s, its neighbor Bariloche has and these neighboring towns bear the more. This is where you go to clear stamp of Prussian order and escape the crowds and savor the workmanship, from the crisp lines sense of exclusivity. Great restau- of trees to the picturesque, shin- rants go hand in hand with cozy gled homes and tidy plazas ringed lodging here. The town is spread with roses. If you’re lucky, you can along one street and along the still catch a few old-timers chat- shore of Nahuel Huapi Lake, with ting in German over coffee and plenty of hiking, biking, and boat- kuchen (a dense cake). Both towns ing nearby; there’s a great little ski feature a glorious view of the Vol- resort here, too. The wood-heavy cán Osorno volcano and a lake- construction is eye-catching, and front address, a picture-postcard 05_584391 ch01.qxd 5/17/05 7:18 PM Page 11

THE BEST OUTDOOR ADVENTURES 11

location that makes for an excel- and unpaved streets, and is with- lent boardwalk stroll. If that isn’t out a doubt one of the prettiest enough, both towns also offer villages in Chile. The population above-par lodging and a few of the of 1,200 swells during the sum- best restaurants in the country. mer when the hordes descend for See chapter 15. rafting adventures on the nearby • Futaleufú, Chile: Nestled in a Class V river, but it hasn’t changed green valley surrounded by an the town’s fabric too dramatically, amphitheater of craggy, snow- and locals rarely saunter past a vis- encrusted peaks, Futaleufú is itor without a tip of the hat and a made of colorful clapboard homes “Buenas tardes.” See chapter 17.

3 The Best Outdoor Adventures • Discovering Iguazú Falls by • Climbing Aconcagua: At 6,960m Raft: A number of tour compa- (22,272 ft.), Cerro Aconcagua is nies operate rafts that speed the highest peak in the entire toward the falls, soaking their Western Hemisphere. Those hop- awestruck passengers along the ing to reach the top must buy a way. This is the best way to expe- 20-day permit, which costs $200 rience the sound and fury of (including emergency medical Iguazú’s magnificent cataratas. See insurance). The climb is not tech- chapter 5. nically difficult, but it demands • Traveling Beyond the Falls into strength and endurance. See chap- the Iguazú Jungle: This is a place ter 8. where birds like the great dusky • Whale-Watching off the Penin- swift and brilliant morpho butter- sula Valdes: From April to flies spread color through the December, the giant Southern thick forest canopy. You can easily whales come very close to shore arrange an outing into the forest off this barren peninsula. You can once you arrive in Iguazú. See jump on a boat in the morning for chapter 5. an up-close and personal view of • Raging Down the Mendoza these awesome mammals. If you’re River: Mendoza offers the best lucky, a baby whale swimming white-water rafting in Argentina, with its mother will circle your and during the summer months, boat, giving you the thrill of a life- when the snow melts in the Andes time. See chapter 10. and fills the Mendoza River, • Rafting or Horseback Riding in rafters enjoy up to Class IV and V the Cajón de Maipo: Okay, it’s rapids here. Rafting is possible not even close to rafting the year-round, but the river is colder Futaleufú, but the Maipo River and calmer in winter months. See whips up enough exciting rapids chapter 8. for a thrill, and, best of all, it’s just • Skiing Las Leñas: One of South a 45-minute drive from Santiago. America’s top ski destinations, Las The Maipo River winds through Leñas boasts more slopes than any the Cajón del Maipo, a hemmed- single resort in the Americas, with in, alpine valley that is so fragrant 40 miles of runs, excellent snow, and pleasant it seems worlds away and typically small crowds. Las from the smoggy metropolis. To Leñas also offers an active night- get deep into the Andes, saddle life in winter. See chapter 8. up for a full- or half-day horse- back ride. Beginners and kids are 05_584391 ch01.qxd 5/17/05 7:18 PM Page 12

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welcome, too. Contact Cascada Expediciones (& 65/311311). Expediciones in Santiago, at & 2/ See chapter 15. 861-1303, or the friendly Altué • Rafting or Kayaking the Expeditions, at & 2/232-1103. Futaleufú River: With churning See chapter 13. river sections that are frightening • Skiing or Snowboarding Por- enough to be dubbed “Hell” and tillo: It’s been around for 54 years, “The Terminator,” the Class V and the steep chutes of Portillo Futaleufú River, or the “Fu,” as it’s still raise fear in the hearts of those known, is solemnly revered by about to make the descent on a rafting and kayaking enthusiasts pair of skis or snowboard. This is around the world as one of the where the speed-skiing record was most difficult to descend. A little broken, where Fidel Castro spent too much excitement for your the night, and where a Who’s nerves? Rafting companies offer Who of northern ski lovers come short-section rafting trips on the in search of the endless winter. Futaleufú and down the tamer, The grand yet rustic hotel is a sin- crystalline waters of the neighbor- gle, all-inclusive destination, ing Espolón River—kayak schools much like a cruise ship in the sky: use this stretch, too. The scenery no lift lines, a stunning location, here redefines mountain beauty. great nightlife, a warm social Contact Expediciones Chile ambience, and lots for kids to do, (& 800/488-9082 in the U.S.) or too. Call & 800/829-5325 from Earth River Expeditions (& 800/ the United States or 2/263-0606 643-2784 in the U.S.). See chap- in Santiago. See p. 293. ter 17. • Summiting a Volcano: There’s • Getting Face to Face with Perito something more thrilling about Moreno Glacier: Few natural summiting a volcano than any old wonders in South America are as mountain, especially when the vol- magnificent or as easily accessed as cano threatens to blow at any Perito Moreno Glacier. You can given time. Chile is home to a drive right up to it, park, and large share of the world’s volca- descend a series of walkways that noes, some of which are perfectly take you directly to the 48m-plus conical and entirely feasible to (160-ft.) wall of turquoise ice—an climb, such as Volcán Villarrica in unforgettable experience. To get Pucón and Volcán Osorno near really close, strap on a pair of Puerto Varas. Active Villarrica is a crampons and take a walk across relatively moderate climb to the the glacier’s surface to admire the gaseous crater, followed by a slide sculpted walls, caves, and chang- on your rear down a human ing tonal variety of blues. Nearly toboggan chute. Osorno offers a all travel agencies in Calafate book more technical climb, roping up this excursion. See chapter 18. for a crampon-aided walk past gla- • Trekking in Torres del Paine: cier crevasses and caves. Don’t miss This backpacking mecca has the electrifying views from the top exploded in popularity, and it’s no of Volcano Osorno, from the wonder why. Torres del Paine is ocean and into Argentina. For Vol- one of the most spectacular cán Villarrica, contact Outdoor national parks in the world, with Experience (& 09/7843139) or hundreds of kilometers of trails Politur (& 45/441373); for through ever-changing landscapes Volcán Osorno, contact Tranco of jagged peaks and one-of-a-kind 05_584391 ch01.qxd 5/17/05 7:18 PM Page 13

THE BEST HOTELS 13

granite spires; undulating mead- and campgrounds, and several ows; milky, turquoise lakes and hotels, one of which is one of the rivers; and mammoth glaciers. best in Latin America. Visitors can The park suits all budgets with a access the park’s major highlights well-organized system of refugios on a day hike, too. See chapter 18.

4 The Best Hotels • Alvear Palace Hotel, Buenos • Conrad Resort & Casino, Punta Aires (& 11/4808-2100): The del Este (& 042/491-111): This most exclusive hotel in Buenos resort dominates social life in Aires and one of the top hotels in Punta del Este. Luxurious rooms the world, the Alvear reflects the have terraces overlooking the Belle Epoque era in which it was beach, and there’s a wealth of out- designed. Luxurious bedrooms door activities, from tennis and and suites have private butler serv- golf to horseback riding and ice, and the hotel’s guest list watersports. Nightlife centers on reflects the top names in the Conrad’s 24-hour casino, Argentina and visitors from nightclub, and theater perform- abroad. See p. 50. ances. See p. 92. • Four Seasons Hotel, Buenos Aires • Sheraton Internacional Iguazú, (& 11/4321-1200): In 2002, the Puerto Iguazú (& 0800/888-9180 Four Seasons took over what was local toll-free, or 3757/491-800): already one of the city’s most luxu- If you visit Iguazú Falls, the Shera- rious properties. There are two ton International Iguazú enjoys the parts to this landmark hotel—the best location by far. It’s the only 12-story Park Tower, housing hotel on the Argentine side of the the majority of the guest rooms, falls situated within the national and the turn-of-the-20th-century park. From here, half the rooms French-rococo La Mansión, with overlook the falls, and guests are seven elegant suites and a handful within easy walking distance of the of private event rooms. See p. 51. waterfall circuits. See p. 102. • Marriott Plaza Hotel, Buenos • Park Hyatt Mendoza, Mendoza Aires (& 11/4318-3000): This (& 261/441-1234): Peering historic hotel was the grande majestically over the Plaza de la dame of Buenos Aires for much of Independencia, the new Park the 20th century, a gathering place Hyatt is the top hotel from which of Argentine politicians, foreign to explore the region’s wineries. dignitaries, and international Sweeping columns of granite and celebrities. It remains one of the stone showcase the lobby, and an city’s most impressive hotels. See impressive collection of Mendo- p. 44. cino art pays tribute to local cul- • Radisson Montevideo Victoria ture. See p. 141. Plaza Hotel, Montevideo (& 02/ • Llao Llao Hotel & Resort, near 902-0111): Montevideo’s center- Bariloche (& 02944/448530): If piece hotel is situated next to you’re looking for a memorable Plaza Independencia in the heart evening and your pocketbook can of downtown. Spacious guest afford it, this is the place you rooms boast French-style furnish- should go. The world-renowned ings and upgraded amenities, and Llao Llao Hotel & Resort’s style the hotel’s restaurant, Arcadia, is was influenced by Canadian-style outstanding. See p. 88. mountain lodges, and the hotel’s 05_584391 ch01.qxd 5/17/05 7:18 PM Page 14

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magnificent alpine setting is one room has been lovingly and indi- of the best in the world. Antler vidually decorated with personal chandeliers, pine-log walls, and touches such as family antiques, Oriental rugs set the mood, and photos, and other collectibles. Like the “winter garden” cafe overlook- all haciendas, Los Lingues wraps ing Lake Nahuel Huapi is divine. around a plant-filled patio and The hotel boasts every amenity fountain, but you’ll also find a imaginable, including its own golf small chapel, a stately main build- course, and service is impeccable. ing, and one of the country’s finest See p. 165. horse-breeding farms on premises. • Ritz-Carlton, Santiago (& 800/ The hotel also offers day visits that 241-3333 or 2/470-8500): South include lunch in the hacienda’s America’s first Ritz-Carlton has grand wine cellar. See p. 284. given other Santiago five-star • Hotel Ultramar, Valparaíso hotels a run for their money. The (& 32/210000): This brand-new Las Condes address is ultraconve- hotel is one of Chile’s best, and it nient for tourists and businesspeo- is the first (and only) “design” ple alike. Though the bland brick boutique hotel in the country. exterior makes the Ritz virtually The Ultramar really shows what indistinguishable from its sur- can be accomplished when an rounding office buildings, the glit- architect puts imagination into tering, glass-enclosed rooftop the renovation of Chile’s historic gym; intricate Mediterranean buildings—the exception in this decor; personal service that goes country, not the rule. The hotel is well beyond a guest’s expectations; fashioned out of the remains of a and one of Santiago’s only wine 1907 mansion, and it sits high bars makes this hotel the obvious above the city, with a breathtaking choice for discriminating travel- panorama of the city. Whimsically ers. See p. 232. adorned with an eclectic, post- • Hotel Orly, Santiago (& 2/231- modern decor, the Ultramar is as 8947): The Hotel Orly is an ideal trendy as it is fun. See p. 270. little inn for those who look for • Hotel Explora in San Pedro de personal service and intimate Atacama (& 55/851110, local accommodations to compensate and 2/395-2533 in Santiago for for the overwhelming hustle and reservations) and Hotel Explora bustle of Santiago. The hotel is Salto Chico in Torres del Paine inside a converted French-style (& 2/395-2533): Few hotels mansion, and there’s a compact (www.explora.com for both) have interior garden patio and bar. It’s generated as much press in Latin located smack-dab in the middle America as the two all-inclusive of everything in Providencia. See Explora lodges in San Pedro de p. 230. Atacama and Torres del Paine. A • Hacienda Los Lingues, near San dynamite location has helped, of Fernando (& 2/235-5446): Step course, but great service, cozy back in time to the 17th century rooms with out-of-this-world with a visit to one of Chile’s oldest views, interiors that are equally hotels, located in the rural heart- elegant and comfortable, and land of the central valley south of guided outdoor trekking, horse- Santiago. Los Lingues has been in back riding, and biking excursions the same family hands for more are what really put these hotels than 400 years, and each venerable above par. The lodges were 05_584391 ch01.qxd 5/17/05 7:18 PM Page 15

THE BEST DINING EXPERIENCES 15

designed by several of Chile’s top 4814-3934 in Buenos Aires): architects, built of native materi- Location is everything at the Los als, and decorated with local art. Notros hotel, which boasts a See p. 310 and 452. breathtaking view spanning one of • Hotel Antumalal, Pucón (& 45/ Argentina’s great wonders, Perito 441011): This low-slung, Bau- Moreno Glacier. The hotel blends haus-influenced country inn is one contemporary folk art with a of the most special places to lodge range of colorful hues, and this, in Chile. Located high above the along with immaculately clean shore of Lake Villarrica and a slop- rooms that come with a dramatic ing, terraced garden, the hotel lit- view of the electric-blue tongue of erally sinks into its surroundings, the glacier, make this lodge one of offering a cozy ambience and an the most upscale, unique lodging excellent view of the evening sun- options in Argentina. The hotel set. A warm welcome and a room arranges excursions around the with no lock are all part of making area and occasional informative you feel at home. The inn has out- talks, and there are plenty of easy standing cuisine, too. See p. 328. chairs and lounges for sitting and • Termas de Puyuhuapi Spa & contemplating the glorious nature Hotel, near Puyuhuapi (&/fax surrounding you. See p. 465. 22/256489): This is arguably the • Hotel José Nogueira, Punta Are- best hotel/thermal spa facility in nas (& 61/248840): Originally Chile. Spread across a remote cove the home of one of Punta Arenas’s on the Ventisquero Sound, this wealthiest families, the Nogueira one-of-a-kind resort is nestled in offers the chance to spend the pristine rainforest and is reachable night in a historic landmark, the only by boat. The hotel itself has principal rooms of which have become the region’s top attraction, been preserved as a museum to give drawing day visitors who come for visitors a look at the outlandish a soak in one of the handful of luxury that must have seemed dra- indoor or outdoor pools, or treat- matically out of place in the Patag- ments in the state-of-the-art spa. onia of the early 1900s. The upper The accommodations are wonder- floors have been converted into fully comfortable and the food is handsome, classically designed outstanding. Many overnighters rooms that come with marvelously opt for the hotel’s package trips high ceilings. The mansion’s glass- with an additional trip to the enclosed patio now houses the Laguna San Rafael Glacier. See hotel’s excellent restaurant, La Pér- p. 421. gola, and the cellar is now an • Los Notros, Perito Moreno evening pub. See p. 436. Glacier, near Calafate (& 11/

5 The Best Dining Experiences • Cabaña las Lilas, Buenos Aires • Catalinas, Buenos Aires (& 11/ (& 11/4313-1336): Widely con- 4313-0182): This is without sidered the best parrilla (grill) in doubt the most recognized inter- Buenos Aires, Cabaña las Lilas is national restaurant in Buenos always packed. The beef comes Aires, its kitchen a model of culi- exclusively from the restaurant’s nary diversity and innovation. In private estancia (ranch), and the addition to Chef Pardo’s enor- steaks are outstanding. See p. 54. mous Patagonian toothfish steaks, 05_584391 ch01.qxd 5/17/05 7:18 PM Page 16

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his grilled lamb chops—sprinkled innovative restaurant, Agua is the with rosemary and fresh savory— chic place to see and be seen. The are famous throughout Argentina. minimalist design of concrete and See p. 59. glass is as fashionable and tasteful • Katrine, Buenos Aires (& 11/ as the fusion cuisine. The young 4315-6222): One of the top din- chef at Agua has catapulted to culi- ing choices in Buenos Aires, nary fame in Santiago for his deli- Katrine (named after the Norwe- cious creations, especially his gian chef-owner, who can be extensive use of seafood in original found almost every day in the dishes. You’ll even find mahimahi kitchen) serves exquisite interna- imported from Easter Island on the tional cuisine in a loud and festive menu, and there are outstanding dining room. See p. 55. meat and vegetarian dishes as well • 1884, Mendoza (& 261/424- as an excellent wine list. See p. 240. 2698): Inside Bodega Escorihuela, • Astrid y Gastón, Santiago (& 2/ Francis Mallman has created Men- 650-9125): Named for the Peru- doza’s top restaurant, his cuisine vian and German couple who own blending his Patagonian roots with and run this wonderful restaurant his French culinary training. with such care, Astrid y Gastón is Dishes are prepared with matching one of the newest and most wine selections, with Malbec and remarkable restaurants in Santi- Syrah topping the list. You can eas- ago—the reason you’ll often need ily combine a tour of the bodega in to make reservations days in the same visit. See p. 143. advance. The chef uses the finest • Jose Balcance, Salta (& 387/421- ingredients, combined so that 1628): The best restaurant in each plate bursts with flavor and Salta serves incredibly imaginative personality; here, you’ll find Andean cuisine in an elegant set- French, Spanish, Peruvian, and ting. Here’s where you can try Japanese influences, as well as llama carpaccio or roasted llama impeccable service, an on-site medallions with prickly pear sommelier, and a lengthy wine sauce, accompanied by Andean list. If you can afford it, don’t miss potatoes grown in the verdant hills dining here. See p. 238. on the outskirts of the city—all • Europeo, Santiago (& 2/208- delicious. See p. 115. 3603): Europeo is named for its • La Bourgogne, Buenos Aires and cuisine: central European–based Punta del Este (& 11/4805-3857 cuisine expertly prepared by the in Buenos Aires, and 042/ restaurant’s Swiss-born and 482-007 in Punta del Este): Jean- -trained chef. In a word, the food is Paul Bondoux is the top French heavenly, and the offer of a more chef in South America, splitting upscale main dining area and a his time between La Bourgogne in more economical adjoining cafe Punta del Este and its sister restau- makes the Europeo suitable for any rant tucked inside the Alvear budget. Not only are the entrees Palace Hotel in Buenos Aires. A mouthwatering (try the leg of lamb member of Relais & Châteaux, La in a merlot sauce served over Bourgogne serves exquisite cuisine polenta), but the Austrian-style inspired by Bondoux’s Burgundy desserts are heavenly. See p. 240. heritage. See p. 55 and 94. • The Bar Liguria bistros, Santi- • Agua, Santiago (& 2/263-0008): ago (& 2/231-1393): These two Perhaps Santiago’s most hip and emblematic and lively restaurants 05_584391 ch01.qxd 5/17/05 7:18 PM Page 17

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are Providencia hot spots, and grown produce to create imagina- they consistently offer Santiago’s tive dishes that come as close to best spots for dining and drinking. nouvelle cuisine as you’re ever The new Liguria on Luis Thayer going to get in southern Chile. Ojeda is rollicking fun, but the Service is impeccable, and there’s a restaurant near Manuel Montt has cigar bar and a cellar for wine tast- a vibrant scene as well, and both ing as well. See p. 367. are packed by 9pm. The mix of • La Calesa, Valdivia (& 63/ actors, artists, businessmen, and 225437): Don’t overlook a Peru- locals makes for excellent people- vian restaurant in Chile, especially watching here, and sharply La Calesa. The spicy, delectable dressed waiters provide entertain- cuisine here, brought to Valdivia ing and attentive service. They by an immigrant family from have good pisco sours and bistro Peru, is as enjoyable as the archi- dishes, too. See p. 239. tecture of the 19th-century home • Aquí Está Coco, Santiago (& 2/ in which the restaurant is housed. 235-8649): This place is wildly Soaring ceilings, antique furni- popular with foreign visitors, with ture, great pisco sours at an old good reason: The kitsch atmos- wooden bar, the river slowly phere is as fun as the food is meandering by . . . need we say mouthwatering. The restaurant is more? See p. 349. spread over two levels of a 140- • Remezón, Punta Arenas (& 61/ year-old home and festooned with 241029): You’ll have to come to oddball and nautically themed the end of Chile for some of the gadgets and curios. Arrive a little country’s best and most exotic cui- early and enjoy an aperitif in the sine. This unassuming little cavelike, brick cellar lounge. restaurant consistently garners Seafood is the specialty here. See rave reviews by diners. Sumptuous p. 237. dishes prepared with local king • Merlín, Puerto Varas (& 65/ crab, lamb, and goose are the 233105): This little restaurant has highlights here, as are the incredi- the good sense to celebrate the ble desserts. Also on the menu are bounty of fresh regional products dishes made with beaver, guanaco, available in the Lake District by and the ostrichlike rhea, so come offering creative, flavorful food with an open mind. A warm wel- that arrives at your table prepared, come and personal contact with not just “cooked.” Fresh fish and the chef will leave you feeling shellfish, meats, and vegetarian happy and well fed. See p. 438. dishes are seasoned with flair here, • Kapué Restaurant, Ushuaia using fresh herbs and spices. The (& 02901/422704): King crab restaurant occupies the first floor features predominantly on the of an old home, with cozy, can- menu at the Kapué, in puff pas- dlelit tables. See p. 263. tries, in soufflés, and fresh on the • Latitude 42 at the Yan Kee Way plate. Nearly every dish here is Lodge, Ensenada (& 65/212030): refined and delectable. The gra- Worth the drive from Puerto cious, family-run service is as Varas, this gorgeous restaurant pleasant as the view of the Beagle boasts superb views of the Osorno Channel, and the restaurant’s new Volcano and delectable cuisine wine bar really sets it apart from served in a beautiful dining room. other eateries in town. See p. 478. The talented chef uses locally