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Argentina & Chili ARGENTINA & CHILI 18 February – 30 March 2007 Raoul Beunen & Marije Louwsma www.avg-w.com Argentina The Northwest, San Pedro de Atacama in Chili & Esteros del Iberá In February and March 2007 we made a trip through north Argentina. We visited the sierras near Córdoba, Mendoza, the north-western part of Argentina, the adjacent Atacama Desert in Chilli, and Esteros del Iberá in the north-eastern part of Argentina. In Salta we hired a car for 12 days. All other travel was done by public transport. Travelling around in Argentina is very easy since there are many long-distance (overnight) busses between the different cities. Getting to national parks and other good places for bird watching might require some extra effort. Visiting San Pedro de Atacama is very easy since there are several busses a week from Salta to San Pedro. The bus ride across the high Andes (the highest pass is about 5200 m.) is really beautiful. Around San Pedro it is fairly easy to add some good species, like Giant & Horned Coot and Red-backed Sierra-finch to your list. The altiplano around San Pedro de Atacama, with the desert, Salinas, Valle de Luna, the high altitude lakes, and the world famous Tatio Geysers are definitely worth a visit. The weather February and March are not the best months to visit north-western Argentina. It is the end of the rainy season and usually very hot. We were lucky and had only little rain on the first day in Calilegua and mist at Cumbres del Obispo. In the lower parts the temperature was often high and bird activity was really low after 9 o’clock. In the mountains and in Esteros del Iberá we had nice weather. The birds We saw in total 379 species, including 10 endemic species and many rare and beautiful ones. Highlights include Puna Tinamou, Golden-collared Macaw, Black-legged & Red-legged Seriema, Horned & Giant Coot, Andean Flamingo, Jabiru, White-throated Antpitta, Giant Antshrike, Black-and-white Monjita, Strange-tailed Tyrant, Olrog’s Cinclodes, Sandy Gallito, Rufous-throated Dipper, Yellow Cardinal, Red- backed Sierra-finch, and Tucuman Mountain-finch. References Lonely planet Argentina: sometimes very helpul, but the latest edition is not very informative as many hotels and restaurants are not mentioned in this book. Where to watch birds in Southern America: this book by Wheatley offers some useful information about where to watch birds, but it might become outdated. Birds of Argentina & Uruguay: A Field Guide: by Yzurieta & Narosky although the drawings look really aweful it is the best you can get for Argentina. Birds of Chili: by Alvaro Jaramillo is an excellent book and very helpful in the Andean highlands. Giant Woodrail Black-hooded Parakeet Itinerary 19-2 arrival in Buenos Aires 20-2 Buenos Aires – night bus to Córdoba 21-2 Icho Cruz 22-2 Cruz del Condor – Córdoba - Mendoza 23-2 Mendoza 24-2 Mendoza 25-2 Mendoza 26-2 Mendoza – San Juan 27-2 San Juan – Talampaya 28-2 Ischigualasto – San Juan – Salta 1-3 Salta 2-3 Salta 3-3 Salta – Cachi 4-3 Cachi – Quilmes 5-3 Quilmes – Tafi del Valle 6-3 Tafi del Valle – Salta 7-3 Salta – Humahuaca 8-3 Laguna Pozuelos 9-3 Humahuaca – Salinas Grandes – San Martin 10-3 Calilegua 11-3 Calilegua 12-3 Calilegua – Salta 13-3 Salta – S.A. de los Cobres 14-3 S.A. de los Cobres – Salta 15-3 Salta – San Pedro de Atacama 16-3 San Pedro de Atacama 17-3 Altiplano lakes & Salar de Atacama 18-3 Valle de Luna 19-3 Tatio Geysers 20-3 San Pedro de Atacama – Salta 21-3 Salta 22-3 Salta – Corrientes 23-3 Corrientes – Mercedes – Esteros del Iberá 24-3 Esteros del Iberá 25-3 Esteros del Iberá 26-3 Esteros del Iberá 27-3 Esteros del Iberá 28-3 Esteros del Iberá – Buenos Aires 29-3 Buenos Aires 30-3 Departure from Buenos Aires Córdoba & Icho Cruz The sierras west of Córdoba are known as Pampa de Achala. Two endemic bird species, the Olrog’s and the Córdoba Cinclodes, are restricted to this area. The area around Icho Cruz, just west out of Córdoba offer some good Chaco birding. We arrived in Córdoba early in the morning and in time to take the 7.00 h. bus to Icho Cruz. Here we checked in in Hostaleria Icho Cruz and walked through the Chaco behind the village. We birded the area behind the village, across the river. The area along the track south of the road Córdoba – Villa Dolores looks also very promising. We found Scimitar-billed Woodcreeper, Pale-breasted Spinetail, Black- capped Warbling Finch, Stripe-capped Sparrow, Many-coloured Chaco-finch, Chaco Earthcreeper, among others. I was very glad to see my first White Monjita, a beautiful bird that is quite common in Argentina but is a pleasure to see all the time. The next morning we took a bus to El Condor. There are regular busses from Córdoba via Icho Cruz and Pampa de Achala towards Villa Dolores. Most of these busses can stop at parador El Condor. The stream near this parador holds Olrog’s Cinclodes. Córdoba Cinclodes is common in this area. North of the road lies the old road towards Córdoba. This track offers good birding. Birds seen here include both cinclodes, Gray-hooded Parakeet, Black-billed Shrike-tyrant, Andean Condor, the extremely beautiful Red-tailed Comet, Short-billed Canastero, and Rufous-naped Ground-tyrant. In the afternoon we flagged down the first bus at El Condor, picked up our luggage in Icho Cruz and returned to Córdoba. From Córdoba we took the night bus to Mendoza. Mendoza We stayed several days with a friend in Mendoza and made a trip to Manzana Histórico. In the mountain we saw Rufous-tailed Plantcutter and White-sided Hillstar. Talampaya & Ischigualasto Talampaya and Ischigualasto are two national parks north-east of San Juan. Although they lie in the same area they are completely different. Talampaya is a large, red-coloured canyon with a lot of scrub. We saw Andean Condor, Lesser Rhea, and heard a Sandy Gallito in the park. Ischigualasto on the other hand is a bare area with all kinds of different rock formations, most of them very strange. The area is extremely dry and hot and the only bird we saw within the park was a Common Diuca-finch. The road between the two parks passes through nice looking chaco. We stopped twice at something of a restaurant. In this area we saw Black-legged Seriema, White-necked Heron, Greater Wagtail-tyrant, White-fronted Woodpecker, Cinnamon Warbling-finch, Elegant-crested Tinamou, Slaty Elaenia, Crested Gallito. We also saw Guanaco’s, a Gray Fox and a Mara. We spend the night in San Agustín de Valle Fértil in the hotel on the hilltop. The best bird here was a Red-legged Seriema that was calling in the morning. It is possible to visit both parks by public transport, but this requires some effort. You need to take the bus from San Juan to San Agustín de Valle Fértil (these buses go a few times per day, last bus leaves San Juan at 1 pm). In San Agustín de Valle Fértil there are several places to stay. From here you need to arrange taxis or a tour to both parks, or find somebody to join. There are no buses to the parks and in Ischigualasto you need your own transport to make the tour. Another option is to book an organised trip in San Juan. There are many operaters who offer different trips. We paid 330 pesos p.p. for a two day trip including convenient accommodation in San Agustín de Valle Fértil, but not the entrance fees for both parks. Talamapaya National Park Salta south In Salta we rented a car for 12 days. We hired the car via Avis and payed $ 1860,- (€460,-). Other companies offer cars for more or less similar prices. Ask for taxes, fees, and insurances to see which company offers the best deal. Salta is a nice town and one of the few places outside the Netherlands and Belgium where they sell papa fritas with mayonnaise! We stayed in several hotels, from which Posada del Angel (www.hotelposadadelangel.com.ar ) near Plaza 9 de Julio was really nice. The first afternoon in Salta we took the Teleférico to Cerro San Bernardo, from where you have a nice view over the area. After we picked up our rental car we drove the road from Salta to Cachi. This road winds up the mountain to a height of about 3500 m. It passes a diversity of habitats, including yangas and prepuna, and several good spots for bird watching, like Cumbres del Obispo and National park Los Cordones. When we crossed the pass it was very misty and we failed to find species like Rufous-bellied Saltator. Along the way we saw Woodstork, Andean Condor, Aplomada Falcon, Scaly-headed Parrot, Mitred Parakeet Golden-spotted Dove, Giant Hummingbird, Buff-browed Spinetail, Ochre-cheeked Spinetail, Crested Becard, White-throated Tyrannulet, Greater Pewee, Brown-capped Redstart, Yellow-browed Tyrant, Black&Rufous Warbling Finch, Rufous-sided Warbling Finch, and Black-backed Grossbeak. Cachi is a small village, but there are several places were you can stay and eat. Cliff-flycatchers are common and I also found 2 White-winged Cinclodes in a stream just outside the village. We spend the night in Cachi and drove the next morning southwards to Cafayate through Valles Calchaquíes. This road is less interesting than the Salta-Cachi road because the surroundings are rather monotonous.
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