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ARGENTINA & CHILI 18 February – 30 March 2007

Raoul Beunen & Marije Louwsma www.avg-w.com

Argentina

The Northwest, San Pedro de Atacama in Chili & Esteros del Iberá In February and March 2007 we made a trip through north Argentina. We visited the sierras near Córdoba, Mendoza, the north-western part of Argentina, the adjacent Atacama Desert in Chilli, and Esteros del Iberá in the north-eastern part of Argentina. In we hired a car for 12 days. All other travel was done by public transport. Travelling around in Argentina is very easy since there are many long-distance (overnight) busses between the different cities. Getting to national parks and other good places for watching might require some extra effort. Visiting San Pedro de Atacama is very easy since there are several busses a week from Salta to San Pedro. The bus ride across the high (the highest pass is about 5200 m.) is really beautiful. Around San Pedro it is fairly easy to add some good , like Giant & Horned and Red-backed Sierra-finch to your list. The around San Pedro de Atacama, with the desert, Salinas, Valle de Luna, the high altitude lakes, and the world famous Tatio Geysers are definitely worth a visit.

The weather February and March are not the best months to visit north-western Argentina. It is the end of the rainy season and usually very hot. We were lucky and had only little rain on the first day in Calilegua and mist at Cumbres del Obispo. In the lower parts the temperature was often high and bird activity was really low after 9 o’clock. In the mountains and in Esteros del Iberá we had nice weather.

The We saw in total 379 species, including 10 endemic species and many rare and beautiful ones. Highlights include Puna , Golden-collared Macaw, Black-legged & Red-legged Seriema, Horned & , Andean Flamingo, Jabiru, White-throated Antpitta, Giant Antshrike, Black-and-white Monjita, Strange-tailed Tyrant, Olrog’s Cinclodes, Sandy Gallito, Rufous-throated Dipper, Yellow Cardinal, Red- backed Sierra-finch, and Tucuman Mountain-finch.

References Lonely planet Argentina: sometimes very helpul, but the latest edition is not very informative as many hotels and restaurants are not mentioned in this book. Where to watch birds in Southern America: this book by Wheatley offers some useful information about where to watch birds, but it might become outdated. Birds of Argentina & : A Field Guide: by Yzurieta & Narosky although the drawings look really aweful it is the best you can get for Argentina. Birds of Chili: by Alvaro Jaramillo is an excellent book and very helpful in the Andean highlands.

Giant Woodrail Black-hooded Parakeet

Itinerary 19-2 arrival in 20-2 Buenos Aires – night bus to Córdoba 21-2 Icho Cruz 22-2 Cruz del Condor – Córdoba - Mendoza 23-2 Mendoza 24-2 Mendoza 25-2 Mendoza 26-2 Mendoza – San Juan 27-2 San Juan – Talampaya 28-2 Ischigualasto – San Juan – Salta 1-3 Salta 2-3 Salta 3-3 Salta – Cachi 4-3 Cachi – Quilmes 5-3 Quilmes – Tafi del Valle 6-3 Tafi del Valle – Salta 7-3 Salta – Humahuaca 8-3 Laguna Pozuelos 9-3 Humahuaca – Salinas Grandes – San Martin 10-3 Calilegua 11-3 Calilegua 12-3 Calilegua – Salta 13-3 Salta – S.A. de los Cobres 14-3 S.A. de los Cobres – Salta 15-3 Salta – San Pedro de Atacama 16-3 San Pedro de Atacama 17-3 Altiplano lakes & Salar de Atacama 18-3 Valle de Luna 19-3 Tatio Geysers 20-3 San Pedro de Atacama – Salta 21-3 Salta 22-3 Salta – Corrientes 23-3 Corrientes – Mercedes – Esteros del Iberá 24-3 Esteros del Iberá 25-3 Esteros del Iberá 26-3 Esteros del Iberá 27-3 Esteros del Iberá 28-3 Esteros del Iberá – Buenos Aires 29-3 Buenos Aires 30-3 Departure from Buenos Aires

Córdoba & Icho Cruz The sierras west of Córdoba are known as Pampa de Achala. Two endemic bird species, the Olrog’s and the Córdoba Cinclodes, are restricted to this area. The area around Icho Cruz, just west out of Córdoba offer some good Chaco birding.

We arrived in Córdoba early in the morning and in time to take the 7.00 h. bus to Icho Cruz. Here we checked in in Hostaleria Icho Cruz and walked through the Chaco behind the village. We birded the area behind the village, across the river. The area along the south of the road Córdoba – Villa Dolores looks also very promising. We found Scimitar-billed Woodcreeper, Pale-breasted Spinetail, Black- capped Warbling Finch, Stripe-capped Sparrow, Many-coloured Chaco-finch, Chaco Earthcreeper, among others. I was very glad to see my first White Monjita, a beautiful bird that is quite common in Argentina but is a pleasure to see all the time.

The next morning we took a bus to El Condor. There are regular busses from Córdoba via Icho Cruz and Pampa de Achala towards Villa Dolores. Most of these busses can stop at parador El Condor. The stream near this parador holds Olrog’s Cinclodes. Córdoba Cinclodes is common in this area. North of the road lies the old road towards Córdoba. This track offers good birding. Birds seen here include both cinclodes, Gray-hooded Parakeet, Black-billed Shrike-tyrant, Andean Condor, the extremely beautiful Red-tailed Comet, Short-billed Canastero, and Rufous-naped Ground-tyrant. In the afternoon we flagged down the first bus at El Condor, picked up our luggage in Icho Cruz and returned to Córdoba. From Córdoba we took the night bus to Mendoza.

Mendoza We stayed several days with a friend in Mendoza and made a trip to Manzana Histórico. In the mountain we saw Rufous-tailed Plantcutter and White-sided Hillstar.

Talampaya & Ischigualasto Talampaya and Ischigualasto are two national parks north-east of San Juan. Although they lie in the same area they are completely different. Talampaya is a large, red-coloured canyon with a lot of scrub. We saw Andean Condor, Lesser Rhea, and heard a Sandy Gallito in the park. Ischigualasto on the other hand is a bare area with all kinds of different rock formations, most of them very strange. The area is extremely dry and hot and the only bird we saw within the park was a Common Diuca-finch. The road between the two parks passes through nice looking chaco. We stopped twice at something of a restaurant. In this area we saw Black-legged Seriema, White-necked Heron, Greater Wagtail-tyrant, White-fronted , Cinnamon Warbling-finch, Elegant-crested Tinamou, Slaty Elaenia, Crested Gallito. We also saw Guanaco’s, a Gray Fox and a Mara.

We spend the night in San Agustín de Valle Fértil in the hotel on the hilltop. The best bird here was a Red-legged Seriema that was calling in the morning. It is possible to visit both parks by public transport, but this requires some effort. You need to take the bus from San Juan to San Agustín de Valle Fértil (these buses go a few times per day, last bus leaves San Juan at 1 pm). In San Agustín de Valle Fértil there are several places to stay. From here you need to arrange taxis or a tour to both parks, or find somebody to join. There are no buses to the parks and in Ischigualasto you need your own transport to make the tour. Another option is to book an organised trip in San Juan. There are many operaters who offer different trips. We paid 330 pesos p.p. for a two day trip including convenient accommodation in San Agustín de Valle Fértil, but not the entrance fees for both parks.

Talamapaya National Park

Salta south In Salta we rented a car for 12 days. We hired the car via Avis and payed $ 1860,- (€460,-). Other companies offer cars for more or less similar prices. Ask for taxes, fees, and insurances to see which company offers the best deal. Salta is a nice town and one of the few places outside the Netherlands and Belgium where they sell papa fritas with mayonnaise! We stayed in several hotels, from which Posada del Angel (www.hotelposadadelangel.com.ar ) near Plaza 9 de Julio was really nice. The first afternoon in Salta we took the Teleférico to Cerro San Bernardo, from where you have a nice view over the area.

After we picked up our rental car we drove the road from Salta to Cachi. This road winds up the mountain to a height of about 3500 m. It passes a diversity of , including yangas and prepuna, and several good spots for bird watching, like Cumbres del Obispo and National park Los Cordones. When we crossed the pass it was very misty and we failed to find species like Rufous-bellied Saltator. Along the way we saw Woodstork, Andean Condor, Aplomada Falcon, Scaly-headed Parrot, Mitred Parakeet Golden-spotted Dove, Giant Hummingbird, Buff-browed Spinetail, Ochre-cheeked Spinetail, Crested Becard, White-throated Tyrannulet, Greater Pewee, Brown-capped Redstart, Yellow-browed Tyrant, Black&Rufous Warbling Finch, Rufous-sided Warbling Finch, and Black-backed Grossbeak.

Cachi is a small village, but there are several places were you can stay and eat. Cliff-flycatchers are common and I also found 2 White-winged Cinclodes in a stream just outside the village.

We spend the night in Cachi and drove the next morning southwards to Cafayate through Valles Calchaquíes. This road is less interesting than the Salta-Cachi road because the surroundings are rather monotonous. The is good for Sandy Gallito and Burrowing Parrot is extremely common here. Other birds we found were Ringed Warbling-finch and Purple-throated Euphonia.

Burrowing Parrot Aplomado Falcon

From Cafayate we continued to Quilmes, the old ruins. There is one hotel here, where we stayed one night. In the evening several Little were sitting on the roof of the hotel. The next morning I birded the surrounding of the hotel. Here I found Sandy Gallito, White-throated Chacolote, and White- bellied Tyrannulet.

Later that morning we left Quilmes and drove towards Tafí del Valle. We stopped at El Infernillo at km. 80 and quickly found a pair of Bare-eyed Ground doves. Other birds included, Mountain Wren, White- browed Chat-tyrant, Black-billed Shrike-tyrant, Cinereous Harrier, and Subtropical Dorito. We failed to find Tucuman Mountain Finch.

In the afternoon we visited the yunga east of Tafí del Valle. Wheatly describes the bridge over a tributary of the Rio los Sosas as a good spot for the Rufous-throated Dipper. Unfortunately no dipper

could be found here, but we did see a Torrent . We decided to return to a bridge a little back towards Tafi del Valle. At this place the old road has collapsed and a new bridge is built to cross a curve of the Rio los Sosas (map 1). From this bridge we saw the Rufous-throated Dipper. Then we returned to the picnic area mentioned in Wheatly and followed the trail into the forest. At this place we saw both White-browed and Yellow-striped Brush-finch.

Map 1. Rio de Sosas area

The next morning we left Tafí del Valle early and drove towards El Infernillo again. We stopped near the gully at km. 78 (map 2). In the gully just north of the road a White-browed Tapaculo was calling. A small track starts near the gully on the south side of the road. In the bushes along this track we found two Tucuman Mountain-finches. Early morning is probably the best time for this rare species.

Map 2. Tafí del Valle

After this success we continued toward km. 83. Near an old ruin is another gully that leads uphill through bare . We followed this gully uphill and found some good species, like , Bare-eyed, and Black-winged Ground-dove, Buff-breasted Earthcreeper, Puna Canastero, Rock Earthcreeper, Spot-billed Ground-tyrant, and Hellmayr’s Pipit. At the end of the morning we drove to Amaicha del Valle were we visited the anthropological museum. A Rufous-banded Miner was found along the road. Then we continued to Salta. The road between Cafayate and Salta passes through some magnificent landscapes (Quebrada de de Cafayate). We followed a touring car that stopped at the most scenic places. A last stop was made somewhere south of Salta. A Great Antshrike was calling in the bushes and Marije saw a . We stayed the night in Salta.

Bare-eyed Ground Dove Buff-breasted Earthcreeper

Salta north The next morning we left Salta and drove north to Jujuy. The yunga forest here looked beautiful, but we did not see many birds. A stop near a lake produced Wattled Jacana, Brazilian Teal, and a - tailed Kite.

In the afternoon we visited Yala, but because of all the rain that had fallen, the river was really high and muddy. No place for a dipper. We did not see a dipper here. The best of the few birds we did see here was a Yellow-billed Cuckoo.

At the end of the day we arrived in Humahuaca where we stayed in Hostel Posada del Sol. This hostel lies on the other side of the river on the edge of the village. We made a walk through the scrub behind the hostel and found a Brown-backed Mockingbird.

Laguna Pozuelos On 8th of March we visited Laguna Pozuelos. This high altitude lake lies about 140 kilometres northwest of Humahuaca. After Abra Pampa the road is unpaved and sometimes bad (especially when it has rained). It takes about 2,5 hours to drive from Humahuaca to Laguna Pozuelos. Just behind Abra Pampa lies a small lagoon. Here we saw Puna , Crested Duck, and Andean Avocet. Several species, like Mountain Caracara, Straight-billed Earthcreeper, Creamy-breasted Canastero, and Cinerous Ground-tyrant were seen during some stops along the road. Both Andean and several Ornate Tinamou were seen crossing the road.

Just after the ranger station there is a track/dirtroad that leads towards the lake. After about 6 kilometres there is a fence where you have to leave you car. From there you have to walk. Unfortunately the flamingos were far away. We did see many Chilean and Andean Flamingo’s but could not find Puna Flamingo. Also present were Andean , Andean Avocet, and many waders, including a Stilt Sandpiper. Other birds that were more or less common at this altitude included Black-hooded Sierra-finch and Puna Miner.

Ornate Tinamou Andean Avocet

Humahuaca – Salinas Grandes From Humahuaca we drove to (Libertador General de) San Martín, but we made a detour to visit the Salinas Grandes. The road from Purmamarca to the Salinas leads over a 3800 m. pass. When we crossed this pass it was very misty. We heard some Least Seedsnipes calling and saw one disappearing in the mist. Other birds seen along this road were D’Orbigny’s Chat-tyrant, Puna Canastero, Cordilleran Canastero, Greenish Yellow-finch, and Brown-capped Tit-spinetail. The Salinas Grandes are an extraordinary place. It looks like the whole plain is covered by snow. Our original plan was to take route 40 towards San Antonio de los Cobres, but the road was really bad and remote, with lots of washboards. Therefore we took the same road back and went straight to San Martín. Later we heard that close to S.A. de los Cobres a river had flushed the roads and that it would have been really hard to cross the river. The local road to San Martín was flushed as well and after a detour we had to take the highway to get there.

Parque Nacional Calilegua We arrived in San Martín in the evening of March the 9th. Hotel Los Lapachos is one block from the main road and very close to the plaza major. The next morning it was raining and we had to wait until noon in our hotel. When it finally became drier we drove to Calilegua. When we arrived near the entrance of Calilegua we saw that the road had turned into a river. Only after a motorcycle and another car had past that part, we decided that we had to go too. It was the only way to go to the park and we could only hope that it would not get worse on the way back, which could mean that we would end up stuck in the park. That afternoon we birded the lower parts of the park. There are several trails, each through different habitat. Despite the wheater we managed to see some of the specialities Calilegua has to offer, like Toco Toucan, Crested Oropendola, Crane Hawk, Black & White Hawk-eagle, Dusky-legged Guan, Black-capped Antwren, and Stripe-headed Brush Finch. A White-throated Antpitta was seen briefly when it crossed the path and sat under the bushes near it for a short moment. Giant Antshrike was heard but not seen.

We left the park and made some stops near the road. At one place I heard an Ocellated and we saw the bird foraging in the scrub. A bit further along the road we saw a flock of about 15 Golden- collard Macaws; beautiful birds.

The next morning we returned to the park in the hope that we would be able to reach the higher parts. There is a bus going up, but not in the early morning. Therefore we decided to go as far as possible by car and do some walking. Due to the rain it was impossible to reach the top with our own car. The road had gone really bad due to several land slides. A ranger told us that all the trails were closed because of

the rain and the danger of falling trees. We managed to get close to the second ranger station but here the mud was too deep to cross. On the way back we noticed that another land slide took place after we passed and we had to clear the road first in to get back. There was very little bird activity in the higher part and after some walking we decided to go back. On the way back we birded the small trails along the road. I was very happy to find a female Giant Antshrike. A male was calling close by but didn’t show up. These birds are really impressive! Other birds we found included White necked-robin, Oliveceous Woodcreeper, Ochre-cheeked Spinetail, Dusky-capped Flycatcher, Large-tailed Dove, Purplish Jay, Buff-banded Tyrannulet, Pale- legged Warbler, and Planalto Hermit.

The next morning we made one short attempt to find some extra birds. This was successful with sightings of Orange-headed , Golden-olive Woodpecker, King Vulture, Dusky-legged Guan, Saffron-billed Sparrow, Dark-brown Swift, Greenish Elenia, Yellow-olive Flycatcher, and a calling Tautopa Tinamou.

Despite the rain and the fact that we could not bird the higher part of Callilegua we saw several good species in this National Park. The place is beautiful and can easily be birded from the road and the few trails. There is a bus from San Martín that goes through the park (leaves in the morning, returns late afternoon) which you can use if you do not have a car.

Back in Salta we looked for opportunities to visit the chaco near JV Gonzáles, which is supposed to be a good place for chaco species. It is a long drive and without a car it is difficult to reach. We had already seen many chaco species and we decided to skip this area. This gave us more time in San Pedro and in Iberá.

S.A. de los Cobres San Antonio de los Cobres is the destination of the famous “”, the train to the clouds. The train journey is supposed to be one of the most beautiful ones in the world. Unfortunately the train only runs in June and July. Therefore we decided to make the trip with our own car. Once you have left Salta the road slowly climbs into the Andes. The road is nice, but it is not as nice as the trip from Salta to Cachi. Nevertheless we saw a Least Seedsnipe here. Other birds that we saw during this trip were Short-eared Owl, Dot-fronted Woodpecker, Mountain Parakeet, Cinnamon Flycatcher, Bright-rumped Yellow Finch, and Rufous-sided Warbling Finch. We stayed in the only decent hotel in SA de los Cobres, Hostería de las Nubes. After the trip we had our car cleaned (inside and outside!) in Salta for a real bargain (10 pesos) and returned it. The next morning we left for San Pedro de Atacama.

San Pedro de Atacama There are several buses a week from Salta to San Pedro de Atacama. They leave early in the morning and take the whole day. You will cross the border at Paso de Jama at an altitude of 4200 m. The bus passes through diverse habitats, including the Salinas Grandes. Especially in Chili the sights are extremely beautiful. During the busride to San Pedro I continuously looked out of the window in the hope to see Lesser Rhea’s or Puna Flamingo’s. Once in Chili I managed to see a Lesser Rhea. We saw another one on the way back to Salta a couple of days later. San Pedro de Atacama is a small village that is packed with tourists. There are many accommodations, restaurants and tour operators. It is possible to make several tours to the surrounding areas, like the Altiplano Lakes, Valle de Luna, Salar de Atacama, and of course the main attraction, the Tatio Geysers. All these trips can be arranged in San Pedro. We booked 3 tours to visit all the places and paid 30.000 Chilean Pesos (about € 40,-) per person.

Altiplano Lakes Everyday there are many tours from San Pedro that take you to the altiplano lakes, Laguna Miscanti and Laguna Miñiques. These lakes are one of the best places in the world to see the rare . This bird breeds in the rocky altiplano lakes in which they build large nest of small stones. They collect these stones and build hills under water until they reach the surface. We saw about 70 Horned Coots at Laguna Miñiques. Only a few were present on Laguna Miscanti. Other birds that we saw during this excursion were Plain-mantled Tit-spinetail, Yellow-rumped Siskin, Silvery Grebe, Cinereous Ground- tyrant, Andean Coot, Puna Miner, Bright-rumped Yellow-finch and Mountain Parakeet. A nice surprise was a small group of Puna that walked along the road between the two lakes.

Horned Coot Puna Minder

Salar de Atacama The tour to the altiplano lakes is often combined with a visit to Salar de Atacama. This is a beautiful place in the middle of the salt planes. There is a large number of flamingos among which Puna Flamingo is a scarce visitor (this species breeds higher in the mountains). Other birds you can see here are Andean Avocet and waders like Bairds Sandpiper and Puna Plover. Non-birding highlights include an endemic lizard and an endemic mouse, both restricted to this salty environment.

Bairds Sandpiper Puna Plover

Tatio Geysers One of the hotspots of the San Pedro area are the Tatio Geysers. These geysers are situated about 90 km. north of San Pedro and in order to get there in the early morning you have to leave at 4.00 am. You need to be there at dawn to see the Geysers at their best. The geyser area and the areas which you will pass on the way are also nice for birds. During our breakfast we saw some Red-backed Sierra-finches and a White-tailed Shrike Tyrant was present as well. On the way back we made several short stops to watch flamingo’s and lama’s. During these stops I managed to see Giant Coots, Rufous-naped Ground- tyrant and an Andean Hillstar.

Esteros del Iberá

At the end of our trip we spent about 5 days in Esteros del Iberá. During these days we saw 152 species of bird. We also saw a lot of other wildlife, including Capybaras, Caymans, Howler Monkeys, Pampa and Marsh Deer, and Geoffroy’s Cat. The weather during the first days of our stay was fine, it was somewhat clouded and therefore not as hot and humid as during the last two days. Most birdwatching was done around Carlos Pellegrini. We stayed one night in a hostel just north of the bridge and 4 nights in Posada de la Laguna.

Friday 23 March Coming from Salta we arrived early morning in Corrientes where we took the 11.00 am bus to Mercedes. There is public transport from Mercedes to Carlos Pellegrini but this takes a lot of time and the only two busses leave in the morning (7.00 h. and 12.00 h.). The best way, although more expensive, is to go by a 4x4. This costs about 180-200 pesos for up to 4 people. The private transport can be arranged at the busstation of Mercedes. It is a two hours drive to Pellegrini and we arrived there just before sunset. The trip takes you through the grassy areas and many species, like Greater Rhea, Spotted , and some raptors, can be seen along the road. We enjoyed the sunsets from the road close to the tourist information. A beautiful Scarlet-headed Blackbird was also present.

Saturday 24 March The morning was spent along the road to the visitor centre south of the bridge and in the small forest near the visitor centre. Although it gets warm very early we saw many birds. In the bushes along the road and the bridge Green-winged Saltator, Sooty Tyrannulet, Uni-coloured Blackbird, three species of kingfisher, and Large Elaenia, were present. In the forest White-rimmed Warbler was really common. We also found Cream-backed Woodcreeper, White-barred Piculet, and Golden-winged Cacique.

Giant Woodrail Large-billed Tern

At the end of the morning we moved to Posada de la Laguna on the other side of the village. Here we would spend the next four days. In the afternoon we made a boat trip to the marshes west of the visitor centre. This was a really nice trip. We saw Jabiru, Snail Kite, Yellow-headed Caracara, Large-billed Tern, Rusty-Collared Seedeater, and Anhinga. Thanks to Maximo, our guide, we had amazing views of a Rufous-sided Crake.

Jabiru Rufous-sided Crake

Sunday 25 March In the morning we made another trip to the visitor centre. This time we had a guided walk here. Nevertheless we saw only a few birds. Green-backed Becard was new. After lunch I made a walk along the road north of Pelligrini. It was too hot for most birds but I managed to find some nice ones, like Checkered Woodpecker, Scimitar-billed Woodcreeper, and Brown & Yellow Marshbird, which is very common in these marshy areas. In the afternoon we made a boat trip along the reed beds south of the Posadas. We again saw a Jabiru. Other birds include Roseate , Bare-faced Ibis, and Long-tailed Reedfinch.

Southern Screamer Vermillion Flycatcher

Monday 26 March Horse-back riding is another way to experience the marshy . The bumpy ride does not allow for much bird watching. We saw South-american Snipe, , and Gray Monjita during this trip. In the afternoon Alejandro took us on a trip to look for the Strange-tailed Tyrant. The end of March is not the best time to see this species because they have a very dull and most have lost their long tail. We saw about 10 birds, males and females, in the grasses south of Pellegrini. One of the males still had a long tail-feather. This species prefers high grass, something which has become rare due to

grazing and burning. It was therefore good to hear that an American had bought many hectares in the area to preserve the natural values of Esteros del Iberá. An attempt to find a Streamer-tailed Tyrant was fruitless, although we saw a hunting Geoffroy’s Cat, a small version of a Jaguar. Just before dark a large flock of Nacunda flew over the road.

Strange-tailed Tyrant

Tuesday 27 March This morning we went birding along the road north of Carlos Pellegrini. Here some of the rarest birds of Argentina can be found. We found two Strange-tailed Tyrants, Red-winged Tinamou, Black & White Monjita, Firewood Gatherer, Ochre-bellied Pipit, and Yellow-rumped Marshbird. We also saw a small group of several Peach-fronted parakeets. This species is not supposed to occur in Argentina, but I know of no other parakeet with an orange front on the forehead. We failed to find Streamer-tailed Tyrant and Yellow Cardinal, birds that could also be present here. In the afternoon we made a new attempt and now we found a small family of Yellow Cardinals which were foraging in the bushes. In a marshy area we found Lesser Grass-finch and some Jabirus. On the way back we found a Scissor-tailed . Just before dinner we heard a calling Tropical Screech- owl in the Bushes near the Posada.

Brown-and-Yellow Marshbird Yellow Cardinal

Wednesday 28 March This was our last day. In the early morning I made another useless attempt to find the Streamer-tailed Tyrant. Afterwards we took a canoe and peddled along the lake for some hours. It was really hot and there were not many birds. When we came back we saw a group of White-eyed parakeets in the garden of the posada. The rest of the day we relaxed near the swimming pool and packed our stuff. In the afternoon we drove back to Mercedes from where we took a nightbus to Buenos Aires.

More information about Esteros del Iberá http://www.esterosdeliberá.com/ Posada de la Laguna: http://www.posadadelalaguna.com/

Any question or comments:

[email protected] www.avg-w.com

Appendix 1

Bird List Greater Rhea Rhea americana Several in Iberá Lesser Rhea Rhea pennata a few seen in , just across the border tataupa 1 heard in Calilegua Brushland Tinamou (Marije only) 1 seen south of Salta Red-winged Tinamou rufescens Esteros del Iberá Ornate Tinamou ornata several seen in high puna Nothoprocta pentlandii 1 birds crossed the road on the way to Laguna Pozuelos Nothura maculosa many birds in Esteros del Iberá Elegant Crested-Tinamou elegans seen at several places pentlandii 3 near Laguna Miscanti Dusky-legged Guan Penelope obscura few in Calilegua Chaco Chachalaca (marije only) 1 from the bus near Palomitas Southern Screamer Chauna torquata common in Esteros del Iberá Fulvous Whistling-Duck Dendrocygna bicolor White-faced Whistling-Duck Dendrocygna viduata Esteros del Iberá Andean Chloephaga melanoptera Muscovy Duck Cairina moschata some birds in Esteros del Iberá Brazilian Teal Amazonetta brasiliensis Torrent Duck Merganetta armata 1 birds east of Tafi del Valle Crested Duck specularioides Cinnamon Teal Anas cyanoptera Speckled Teal Anas flavirostris Yellow-billed Pintail Anas georgica Puna Teal Anas puna White-barred Piculet cirratus several birds in Iberá Ocellated Piculet Picumnus dorbygnianus One bird in Calilegua White-fronted Woodpecker Melanerpes cactorum seen in the Chaco near Talampaya N.P. Checkered Woodpecker Picoides mixtus Esteros del Iberá Little Woodpecker Veniliornis passerinus Dot-fronted Woodpecker Veniliornis frontalis seen along the way to S.A. los Cobres Golden-olive Woodpecker Piculus rubiginosus I bird in Calilegua Green-barred Woodpecker melanochloros /golden-breasted woodpecker Andean Flicker Colaptes rupicola Colaptes campestris Cream-backed Woodpecker Campephilus leucopogon 2 birds in Esteros del Iberá in the forest near the visitor centre Toco Toucan Ramphastos toco several on the road before Calilegua Ringed Kingfisher Megaceryle torquata several birds in Esteros del Iberá Amazon Kingfisher Chloroceryle amazona several birds in Esteros del Iberá Green Kingfisher Chloroceryle americana several birds in Esteros del Iberá Yellow-billed Cuckoo Coccyzus americanus 1 bird near the dipper spot in Yala Squirrel Cuckoo Piaya cayana Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani Guira Cuckoo Guira guira Yellow-collared Macaw Primolius auricollis One group at Calilegua / golden-collared macaw Blue-crowned Parakeet Aratinga acuticaudata Mitred Parakeet Aratinga mitrata

White-eyed Parakeet Aratinga leucophthalmus Peach-fronted Parakeet Aratinga aurea A group parakeets with yellow-orange fronts, seen in Iberá, must be of this species, although it is not known to exist there. Nanday Parakeet Nandayus nenday Seen in Buenos Aires /black-hooded parakeet Burrowing Parakeet Cyanoliseus patagonus very common south of Salta Green-cheeked Parakeet Pyrrhura molinae Monk Parakeet Myiopsitta monachus Grey-hooded Parakeet Psilopsiagon aymara Pampa de Achala Mountain Parakeet Psilopsiagon aurifrons along the road to S.A. de los Cobres and in Chili Scaly-headed Parrot Pionus maximiliani Rothschild's Swift Cypseloides rothschildi a group near Calilegua White-collared Swift Streptoprocne zonaris seen in sevaral places Ashy-tailed Swift Chaetura andrei Andean Swift Aeronautes andecolus 1 on the way back from the Tatio Geysers Planalto Hermit Phaethornis pretrei High in Calilegua Sparkling Violet-ear Colibri coruscans Glittering-bellied Emerald Chlorostilbon aureoventris White-bellied Hummingbird Leucippus chionogaster Speckled Hummingbird Adelomyia melanogenys some birds in Calilegua Andean Hillstar Oreotrochilus estella 1 bird in Chili, after visiting the Tatio Geysers White-sided Hillstar Oreotrochilus leucopleurus some birds south of Mendoza Giant Hummingbird Patagona gigas Red-tailed Comet Sappho sparganura A beautiful hummingbird that was in many places. The first one at El Conder. Blue-tufted Starthroat Heliomaster furcifer Tropical Screech-Owl Megascops choliba One calling birds near the lodge in Esteros del Iberá Burrowing Owl Athene cunicularia very common in many places Short-eared Owl Asio flammeus I bird at the puna near S.A. de los Cobres Nacunda Nighthawk Podager nacunda Over 30 birds in Esteros del Iberá! Beautiful! Little Caprimulgus parvulus several birds in Quilmes Scissor-tailed Nightjar Hydropsalis torquata 1 bird near the lodge in Esteros del Iberá Picazuro Pigeon Patagioenas picazuro Spot-winged Pigeon Patagioenas maculosa Eared Dove Zenaida auriculata Ruddy Ground-Dove Columbina talpacoti Picui Ground-Dove Columbina picui Bare-eyed Ground-Dove € Metriopelia morenoi Several around El Infernillo Black-winged Ground-Dove Metriopelia melanoptera several birds around El Infernillo and other places high in the mountains Golden-spotted Ground-Dove Metriopelia aymara some birds in the puna and prepuna White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi White-faced Dove /large-tailed dove Leptotila megalura Limpkin Aramus guarauna a birds near the lodge in Esteros del Iberá Red-legged Seriema Cariama cristata 1 calling bird near the hotel in San Agustin de Valle Fertil Black-legged Seriema Chunga burmeisteri One seen in the chaco along the road to Talampaya Rufous-sided Crake Laterallus melanophaius 1 seen very well in Esteros del Iberá, heard several times. Grey-necked Wood- Aramides cajanea some birds in Costanera Sur Giant Wood-Rail Aramides ypecaha Very common in Esteros del Iberá Plumbeous Rail Pardirallus sanguinolentus Pampa de Achala, El Condor

Purple Gallinule Porphyrio martinicus White-winged Coot Fulica leucoptera Slate-colored Coot or Andean Coot Fulica ardesiaca Red-gartered Coot Fulica armillata Giant Coot Fulica gigantea A few on the way back from the Tatio Geysers Horned Coot Fulica cornuta 70+ at Laguna Miñiques Least Seedsnipe Thinocorus rumicivorus Some heard and poorly seen in the mist at the high pass near Salinas Grandes. Two adults with 2 chickens along the road to S.A. de los Cobres South American Snipe Gallinago paraguaiae several birds during our horseback riding trip in Esteros del Iberá Puna Snipe Gallinago andina near Laguna Pozuelos Solitary Sandpiper Tringa solitaria Semipalmated Sandpiper Calidris pusilla ? a small Calidris at Laguna Pozuelos White-rumped Sandpiper Calidris fuscicollis Baird's Sandpiper Calidris bairdii Pectoral Sandpiper Calidris melanotos Stilt Sandpiper Calidris himantopus 1 bird at Laguna Pozuelos Wilson's Phalarope Phalaropus tricolor Wattled Jacana Jacana jacana White-backed Stilt Himantopus melanurus Andean Avocet Recurvirostra andina very common at Salar de Atacama, several at Laguna Pozuelos and Abra Pampa. Puna Plover Charadrius alticola Southern Lapwing Vanellus chilensis Andean Lapwing Vanellus resplendens Kelp Gull Larus dominicanus Brown-hooded Gull Larus maculipennis Andean Gull Larus serranus Large-billed Tern Phaetusa simplex several birds in Esteros del Iberá Swallow-tailed Kite Elanoides forficatus 1 bird between Salta and Jujuy White-tailed Kite Elanus leucurus Snail Kite Rostrhamus sociabilis Esteros del Iberá Plumbeous Kite Ictinia plumbea Long-winged Harrier Circus buffoni Esteros del Iberá Cinereous Harrier Circus cinereus Sharp-shinned Hawk Accipiter striatus Esteros del Iberá, near the lodge Crane Hawk Geranospiza caerulescens 1 birds in Calilegua Hawk Buteogallus meridionalis Black-collared Hawk Busarellus nigricollis Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle Geranoaetus melanoleucus Roadside Hawk Rupornis magnirostris White-tailed Hawk Buteo albicaudatus Red-backed Hawk Buteo polyosoma also Puna Hawk Poecilochrous Black-and-White Hawk-Eagle Spizastur melanoleucus 1 birds in Calilegua Mountain Caracara Phalcoboenus megalopterus Southern Crested Caracara Caracara plancus Yellow-headed Caracara Milvago chimachima Chimango Caracara Milvago chimango American Kestrel Falco sparverius Aplomado Falcon Falco femoralis 1 birds along the Salta – Cachi road, 1 bird between Salta and Jujuy Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus Pampa de Achala White-tufted Grebe Rollandia rolland

Least Grebe Tachybaptus dominicus Silvery Grebe Podiceps occipitalis Anhinga Anhinga anhinga Neotropic/Olivaceous Cormorant Phalacrocorax brasilianus Whistling Heron Syrigma sibilatrix Snowy Egret Egretta thula Cocoi Heron Ardea cocoi Great Egret Ardea alba Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis Striated Heron Butorides striatus Black-crowned Night-Heron Nycticorax nycticorax Rufescent Tiger-Heron Tigrisoma lineatum Esteros del Iberá, near the lodge Chilean Flamingo Phoenicopterus chilensis Andean Flamingo Phoenicopterus andinus several at Laguna Pozuelos and at Salar de Atacama Whispering Ibis / Bare-faced Ibis Phimosus infuscatus several birds in Esteros del Iberá White-faced Ibis chihi Plegadis ridgwayi 2 birds at a lagoon near Abra Pampa Plumbeous Ibis caerulescens A few birds in Esteros del Iberá Buff-necked Ibis Theristicus caudatus a few bird crossed the road east of Salta Roseate Spoonbill Ajaia ajaja several birds in Esteros del Iberá Black Vulture Coragyps atratus Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura Andean Condor Vultur gryphus 1 at Pampa de Achala, many in the Andes south of Mendoza King Vulture Sarcoramphus papa 1 bird in Calilegua Wood Stork Mycteria americana in Esteros del Iberá and 1 bird between Salta and Cachi Maguari Stork Ciconia maguari several birds in Esteros del Iberá Jabiru Jabiru mycteria Great bird! Serval seen in Iberá. Ochre-faced Tody-Flycatcher Todirostrum plumbeiceps several birds in Calilegua Southern Beardless-Tyrannulet Camptostoma obsoletum Southern Scrub-Flycatcher Sublegatus modestus Ichu Cruz Chaco Suiriri Suiriri suiriri seen at Costenara Sur and at Esteros del Iberá Greenish Elaenia viridicata Large Elaenia Elaenia spectabilis Esteros del Iberá White-crested Elaenia Elaenia albiceps Slaty Elaenia Elaenia strepera some birds in Calilegua White-throated Tyrannulet Mecocerculus leucophrys Buff-banded Tyrannulet Mecocerculus hellmayri 1 bird in Calilegua Sooty Tyrannulet Serpophaga nigricans several birds at the bridge in Esteros del Iberá White-crested Tyrannulet Serpophaga subcristata White-bellied Tyrannulet Serpophaga munda at least 1 bird at Quilme Greater Wagtail-Tyrant Stigmatura budytoides Noisy birds in the chaco near Talampaya Yellow-billed Tit-Tyrant Anairetes flavirostris Tufted Tit-Tyrant Anairetes parulus Subtropical Doradito Pseudocolopteryx acutipennis 1 bird at El Infernillo Warbling Doradito Pseudocolopteryx flaviventris Mottle-cheeked Tyrannulet Phylloscartes ventralis Calilegua Yellow-olive Flycatcher Tolmomyias sulphurescens Calilegua Bran-colored Flycatcher Myiophobus fasciatus several places in chaco & scrub Cinnamon Flycatcher Pyrrhomyias cinnamomea 1 bird along the road to S.A. los Cobres Cliff Flycatcher Hirundinea ferruginea

Greater Pewee Contopus pertinax west of Salta along the road to Cachi Euler's Flycatcher Lathrotriccus euleri Calilegua Black Phoebe Sayornis nigricans Vermilion Flycatcher Pyrocephalus rubinus D'Orbigny's Chat-Tyrant Ochthoeca oenanthoides One at the pass to Salinas Grandes White-browed Chat-Tyrant Ochthoeca leucophrys Several at El Infernillo Grey Monjita cinerea 1 birds during our horseback riding trip in Esteros del Iberá White Monjita Xolmis irupero seen at several places Black-and-white Monjita Heteroxolmis dominicana A pair of this rare and beautiful species in Esteros del Iberá Black-billed Shrike-Tyrant Agriornis montana Pampa de Achala White-tailed Shrike-Tyrant Agriornis andicola 1 bird near the Tatio Geysers Grey-bellied Shrike-Tyrant Agriornis microptera 1 bird near San Pedro de Atacama Spot-billed Ground-Tyrant Muscisaxicola maculirostris 1 bird at El Infernillo Rufous-naped Ground-Tyrant Muscisaxicola rufivertex Pampa de Achala Cinereous Ground-Tyrant Muscisaxicola cinerea some birds near Laguna Pozuelos at near Laguna Miñiques Andean Negrito Lessonia oreas Spectacled Tyrant Hymenops perspicillatus White-headed Marsh-Tyrant Arundinicola leucocephala several at Esteros del Iberá Strange-tailed Tyrant Alectrurus risora several birds at different places in Esteros del Iberá, including some males, unfortunately in non breeding plumage Yellow-browed Tyrant Satrapa icterophrys Cattle Tyrant Machetornis rixosus Dusky-capped Flycatcher Myiarchus tuberculifer Calilegua Swainson's Flycatcher Myiarchus swainsoni Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus Fork-tailed Flycatcher Tyrannus savana Variegated Flycatcher Empidonomus varius Calilegua Crowned Slaty Flycatcher Griseotyrannus aurantioatrocristatus Streaked Flycatcher Myiodynastes maculatus along the Salta-Cachi road Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus Green-backed Becard Pachyramphus viridis 1 bird in Esteros del Iberá in the forest near the visitor centre White-winged Becard Pachyramphus polychopterus Crested Becard Pachyramphus validus White-tipped Plantcutter Phytotoma rutila common, seen at many places Rufous-tailed Plantcutter Phytotoma rara 1 bird south of Mendoza Giant Antshrike Batara cinerea Several heard and one beautiful female seen in Calilegua Great Antshrike Taraba major 1 calling bird in the chaco south of Salta Variable Antshrike Thamnophilus caerulescens several birds in the forest near the visitor centre in Esteros del Iberá Black-capped Antwren Herpsilochmus atricapillus Several birds in Calilegua, mostly heard Common Miner cunicularia Puna Miner Geositta punensis common at high altitude Rufous-banded Miner Geositta rufipennis 1 bird near El Infernillo Chaco Earthcreeper Upucerthia certhioides Icho Cruz Straight-billed Earthcreeper Upucerthia ruficauda Rock Earthcreeper Upucerthia andaecola A bird at El Infernillo Buff-breasted Earthcreeper € Upucerthia validirostris A bird at El Infernillo Bar-winged Cinclodes Cinclodes fuscus Córdoba Cinclodes € Cinclodes comechingonus Very common around parador El Condor

Olrog’s Cinclodes € Cinclodes olrogi A bird near parador El Condor White-winged Cinclodes Cinclodes atacamensis Rufous Hornero Furnarius rufus Brown-capped Tit-Spinetail Leptasthenura fuliginiceps Plain-mantled Tit-Spinetail Leptasthenura aegithaloides Chotoy Spinetail Schoeniophylax phryganophila Esteros del Iberá Sooty-fronted Spinetail Synallaxis frontalis Icho Cruz Azara's Spinetail Synallaxis azarae (formerly Buff-browed) between Salta and Cachi Pale-breasted Spinetail Synallaxis albescens Icho Cruz Ochre-cheeked Spinetail Synallaxis scutata Calilegua Stripe-crowned Spinetail Cranioleuca pyrrhophia common in Chaco Yellow-chinned Spinetail Certhiaxis cinnamomea busy birds at Calilegua Lesser Canastero Asthenes pyrrholeuca seem at several places Short-billed Canastero Asthenes baeri seen at several places Cordilleran Canastero Asthenes modesta seen at several places, mostly at higher elavations Rusty-vented Canastero Asthenes dorbignyi on the road to Laguna Pozuelos / Creamy-breasted Canastero Chestnut Canastero Asthenes steinbachi 1 positive i.d. south of Cafayate /Steinbach’s Canastero € Puna Canastero Asthenes sclateri El Infernillo and at the pass to Salinas Grandes Little Thornbird Phacellodomus sibilatrix Esteros del Iberá Greater Thornbird Phacellodomus ruber Esteros del Iberá Wren-like Rushbird Phleocryptes melanops Firewood-gatherer Anumbius annumbi Some birds in Esteros del Iberá Lark-like Brushrunner Coryphistera alaudina Brown Cacholote Pseudoseisura lophotes White-throated Cacholote € Pseudoseisura gutturalis Several birds around Quilmes Buff-browed Foliage-gleaner Syndactyla rufosuperciliata Olivaceous Woodcreeper Sittasomus griseicapillus Scimitar-billed Woodcreeper Drymornis bridgesii A very nice and large woodcreeper Narrow-billed Woodcreeper Lepidocolaptes angustirostris White-throated Antpitta Grallaria albigula Heard at many places in Calilegua Crested Gallito Rhinocrypta lanceolata 1 bird in the Chaco near Talampay N.P. Sandy Gallito Teledromas fuscus A bird calling in Talampaya N.P. A few along the road between Cachi and Cafayate and near Quilmes. White-browed Tapaculo Scytalopus superciliaris Both in the Yunga near Tafi del Valle and at Infernillo Rufous-browed Peppershrike Cyclarhis gujanensis Red-eyed Vireo Vireo olivaceus Purplish Jay Cyanocorax cyanomelas Calilegua Plush-crested Jay Cyanocorax chrysops Rufous-throated Dipper € Cinclus schulzi 1 bird along the river near Tafi del Valle. None at Yala. Swainson's Thrush Catharus ustulatus 1 bird in Calilegua and 1 bird along the road to S.A. de los Cobres Chiguanco Thrush Turdus chiguanco Andean Slaty-Thrush Turdus nigriceps Rufous-bellied Thrush Turdus rufiventris Creamy-bellied Thrush Turdus amaurochalinus White-necked Thrush Turdus albicollis 1 bird in Calilegua Chalk-browed Mockingbird Mimus saturninus Patagonian Mockingbird Mimus patagonicus Brown-backed Mockingbird Mimus dorsalis several north of Humahuaca

White-banded Mockingbird Mimus triurus Black-capped Donacobius Donacobius atricapillus Sedge Wren Cistothorus platensis House Wren Troglodytes aedon Mountain Wren Troglodytes solstitialis Masked Gnatcatcher Polioptila dumicola White-winged Swallow albiventer Some birds at Esteros del Iberá White-rumped Swallow Tachycineta leucorrhoa Brown-chested Martin tapera Grey-breasted Martin Progne chalybea Progne modesta Blue-and-white Swallow cyanoleuca andecola Tawny-headed Swallow Stelgidopteryx fucata riparia rustica pyrrhonota House Sparrow Passer domesticus Hellmayr's Pipit Anthus hellmayri 1 bird at El Infernillo Ochre-breasted Pipit Anthus nattereri 1 bird at Iberá Thick-billed Siskin Carduelis crassirostris along the road to Laguna Pozuelos Hooded Siskin Carduelis magellanica Yellow-rumped Siskin Carduelis uropygialis a few birds during the trip to the altiplano lakes in Chili Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis Grassland Sparrow Ammodramus humeralis Stripe-capped Sparrow Aimophila strigiceps Icho Cruz Saffron-billed Sparrow Arremon flavirostris Yellow-striped Brush-Finch € Atlapetes citrinellus 2 birds near Tafi del Valle Stripe-headed Brush-Finch Buarremon torquatus Yellow Cardinal Gubernatrix cristata A small group of these endangered birds in Esteros del Iberá Red-crested Cardinal Paroaria coronata Mendoza Yellow-billed Cardinal Paroaria capitata Tropical Parula Parula pitiayumi Masked Yellowthroat Geothlypis aequinoctialis Brown-capped Redstart Myioborus brunniceps Two-banded Warbler Basileuterus bivittatus Pale-legged Warbler Basileuterus signatus Calilegua Golden-crowned Warbler Basileuterus culicivorus White-browed Warbler Basileuterus leucoblepharus common in Esteros del Iberá in the forest near /White-rimmed warbler the visitor centre Common Bush-Tanager Chlorospingus ophthalmicus Orange-headed Tanager Thlypopsis sordida several birds at our last day in Calilegua White-lined Tanager Tachyphonus rufus Hepatic Tanager Piranga flava Sayaca Tanager Thraupis sayaca Blue-and-yellow Tanager Thraupis bonariensis Fawn-breasted Tanager Pipraeidea melanonota Purple-throated Euphonia Euphonia chlorotica Many-colored Chaco-Finch Saltatricula multicolor Icho Cruz Red-crested Finch Coryphospingus cucullatus Black-hooded Sierra-Finch Phrygilus atriceps

Grey-hooded Sierra-Finch Phrygilus gayi Mourning Sierra-Finch Phrygilus fruticeti Plumbeous Sierra-Finch Phrygilus unicolor Red-backed Sierra-Finch Phrygilus dorsalis a few birds near the Tatio Geysers Ash-breasted Sierra-Finch Phrygilus plebejus Band-tailed Sierra-Finch Phrygilus alaudinus Long-tailed Reed-Finch Donacospiza albifrons Esteros del Iberá Common Diuca-Finch Diuca diuca Rufous-sided Warbling-Finch Poospiza hypochondria a few birds between Salta and Cachi and 1 between Salta and S.A. de los Cobres Cinnamon Warbling-Finch € Poospiza ornata In the chaco near San Agustin de Valle Fertil Black-and-rufous Warbling-Finch Poospiza nigrorufa seen at several places Tucuman Mountain-Finch € Poospiza baeri we saw this beautiful bird the second morning we looked for it near El Infiernillo. Ringed Warbling-Finch Poospiza torquata Black-capped Warbling-Finch Poospiza melanoleuca Icho Cruz Puna Yellow-Finch Sicalis lutea along the road to S.A. de los Cobres Bright-rumped Yellow-Finch Sicalis uropygialis seen near S.A. de los Cobres and in Chili Greenish Yellow-Finch Sicalis olivascens Saffron Finch Sicalis flaveola Grassland Yellow-Finch Sicalis luteola Lesser Grass-Finch Emberizoides ypiranganus outside Carlos Pellegrini in Esteros del Iberá / Grey-cheeked Grass-Finch Great Pampa-Finch Embernagra platensis Blue-black Grassquit Volatinia jacarina Rusty-collared Seedeater Sporophila collaris some birds in Esteros del Iberá Double-collared Seedeater Sporophila caerulescens Band-tailed Seedeater Catamenia analis Plain-colored Seedeater Catamenia inornata Dull-colored Grassquit Tiaris obscura Black-backed Grosbeak Pheucticus aureoventris Greyish Saltator Saltator coerulescens Green-winged Saltator Saltator similis A few birds on the brigde in Esteros del Iberá Golden-billed Saltator Saltator aurantiirostris Indigo Grosbeak Cyanoloxia glaucocaerulea several birds in Esteros del Iberá Crested Oropendola Psarocolius decumanus 1 bird at Calilegua Golden-winged Cacique Cacicus chrysopterus Esteros del Iberá Solitary Cacique Cacicus solitarius Epaulet Oriole Icterus cayanensis Unicolored Blackbird Agelaius cyanopus few birds in Esteros del Iberá Long-tailed Meadowlark Sturnella loyca few birds at Pampas de Achala Yellow-rumped Marshbird Pseudoleistes guirahuro some birds in Esteros del Iberá Brown-and-yellow Marshbird Pseudoleistes virescens very common at Esteros del Iberá Scarlet-headed Blackbird Amblyramphus holosericeus This amazinly beautiful birds was seen several times in Esteros del Iberá Bay-winged Cowbird Agelaioides badius Screaming Cowbird Molothrus rufoaxillaris Molothrus bonariensis € Endemic

Appendix 2 List of species seen in Esteros del Iberá (152 in total)

Greater Rhea Rhea americana South American Snipe Gallinago paraguaiae Red-winged Tinamou Rhynchotus rufescens Wattled Jacana Jacana jacana Spotted Nothura Nothura maculosa Southern Lapwing Vanellus chilensis Southern Screamer Chauna torquata Large-billed Tern Phaetusa simplex White-faced Whistling-Duck Dendrocygna viduata White-tailed Kite Elanus leucurus Muscovy Duck Cairina moschata Snail Kite Rostrhamus sociabilis Brazilian Teal Amazonetta brasiliensis Long-winged Harrier Circus buffoni White-barred Piculet Picumnus cirratus Cinereous Harrier Circus cinereus Checkered Woodpecker Picoides mixtus Sharp-shinned Hawk Accipiter striatus Little Woodpecker Veniliornis passerinus Savanna Hawk Buteogallus meridionalis Golden-breasted woodpecker Colaptes melanochloros Black-collared Hawk Busarellus nigricollis Campo Flicker Colaptes campestris Roadside Hawk Rupornis magnirostris Cream-backed Woodpecker Campephilus leucopogon Southern Crested Caracara Caracara plancus Ringed Kingfisher Megaceryle torquata Yellow-headed Caracara Milvago chimachima Amazon Kingfisher Chloroceryle amazona Chimango Caracara Milvago chimango Green Kingfisher Chloroceryle americana American Kestrel Falco sparverius Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani Anhinga Anhinga anhinga Guira Cuckoo Guira guira Neotropic Cormorant Phalacrocorax brasilianus Blue-crowned Parakeet Aratinga acuticaudata Whistling Heron Syrigma sibilatrix White-eyed Parakeet Aratinga leucophthalmus Snowy Egret Egretta thula Peach-fronted Parakeet Aratinga aurea Cocoi Heron Ardea cocoi Monk Parakeet Myiopsitta monachus Great Egret Ardea alba Ashy-tailed Swift Chaetura andrei Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis Glittering-bellied Emerald Chlorostilbon aureoventris Striated Heron Butorides striatus Blue-tufted Starthroat Heliomaster furcifer Black-crowned Night-Heron Nycticorax nycticorax Tropical Screech-Owl Megascops choliba Rufescent Tiger-Heron Tigrisoma lineatum Burrowing Owl Athene cunicularia Bare-faced Ibis Phimosus infuscatus Nacunda Nighthawk Podager nacunda Plumbeous Ibis Theristicus caerulescens Scissor-tailed Nightjar Hydropsalis torquata Roseate Spoonbill Ajaia ajaja Picazuro Pigeon Patagioenas picazuro Black Vulture Coragyps atratus Spot-winged Pigeon Patagioenas maculosa Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura Eared Dove Zenaida auriculata Wood Stork Mycteria americana Ruddy Ground-Dove Columbina talpacoti Maguari Stork Ciconia maguari Picui Ground-Dove Columbina picui Jabiru Jabiru mycteria White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi Southern Beardless-Tyrannulet Camptostoma obsoletum Limpkin Aramus guarauna Chaco Suiriri Suiriri suiriri Rufous-sided Crake Laterallus melanophaius Large Elaenia Elaenia spectabilis Giant Wood-Rail Aramides ypecaha Sooty Tyrannulet Serpophaga nigricans Purple Gallinule Porphyrio martinicus White-crested Tyrannulet Serpophaga subcristata Solitary Sandpiper Tringa solitaria Warbling Doradito Pseudocolopteryx flaviventris

Vermilion Flycatcher Pyrocephalus rubinus Lesser Grass-Finch Emberizoides ypiranganus Grey Monjita Xolmis cinerea Great Pampa-Finch Embernagra platensis White Monjita Xolmis irupero Blue-black Grassquit Volatinia jacarina Black-and-white Monjita Heteroxolmis dominicana Rusty-collared Seedeater Sporophila collaris Spectacled Tyrant Hymenops perspicillatus Double-collared Seedeater Sporophila caerulescens White-headed Marsh-Tyrant Arundinicola leucocephala Greyish Saltator Saltator coerulescens Strange-tailed Tyrant Alectrurus risora Green-winged Saltator Saltator similis Yellow-browed Tyrant Satrapa icterophrys Golden-billed Saltator Saltator aurantiirostris Cattle Tyrant Machetornis rixosus Indigo Grosbeak Cyanoloxia glaucocaerulea Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus Golden-winged Cacique Cacicus chrysopterus Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus Solitary Cacique Cacicus solitarius Green-backed Becard Pachyramphus viridis Epaulet Oriole Icterus cayanensis Variable Antshrike Thamnophilus caerulescens Unicolored Blackbird Agelaius cyanopus Rufous Hornero Furnarius rufus Yellow-rumped Marshbird Pseudoleistes guirahuro Chotoy Spinetail Schoeniophylax phryganophila Brown-and-yellow Marshbird Pseudoleistes virescens Yellow-chinned Spinetail Certhiaxis cinnamomea Scarlet-headed Blackbird Amblyramphus holosericeus Little Thornbird Phacellodomus sibilatrix Bay-winged Cowbird Agelaioides badius Greater Thornbird Phacellodomus ruber Shiny Cowbird Molothrus bonariensis Wren-like Rushbird Phleocryptes melanops Firewood-gatherer Anumbius annumbi Scimitar-billed Woodcreeper Drymornis bridgesii Narrow-billed Woodcreeper Lepidocolaptes angustirostris Rufous-browed Peppershrike Cyclarhis gujanensis Rufous-bellied Thrush Turdus rufiventris Creamy-bellied Thrush Turdus amaurochalinus Chalk-browed Mockingbird Mimus saturninus Black-capped Donacobius Donacobius atricapillus House Wren Troglodytes aedon Masked Gnatcatcher Polioptila dumicola White-rumped Swallow Tachycineta leucorrhoa Brown-chested Martin Progne tapera Grey-breasted Martin Progne chalybea Tawny-headed Swallow Stelgidopteryx fucata Sand Martin Riparia riparia Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica Cliff Swallow Petrochelidon pyrrhonota House Sparrow Passer domesticus Ochre-breasted Pipit Anthus nattereri Hooded Siskin Carduelis magellanica Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis Grassland Sparrow Ammodramus humeralis Yellow Cardinal Gubernatrix cristata Red-crested Cardinal Paroaria coronata Yellow-billed Cardinal Paroaria capitata Tropical Parula Parula pitiayumi White-rimmed warbler Basileuterus leucoblepharus White-lined Tanager Tachyphonus rufus Hepatic Tanager Piranga flava Sayaca Tanager Thraupis sayaca Purple-throated Euphonia Euphonia chlorotica Red-crested Finch Coryphospingus cucullatus Long-tailed Reed-Finch Donacospiza albifrons Saffron Finch Sicalis flaveola Grassland Yellow-Finch Sicalis luteola