sign in sign up
<<
Home , Abancay, Andean avocet, Andean gull, Cantua buxifolia, Chilean pintail, Collared antshrike

Traveler’s Guide WILDLIFE WATCHINGTraveler’s IN Guide WILDLIFE WATCHING IN PERU

CONTENTS CONTENTS

PERU, THE NATURAL DESTINATION

BIRDS Northern Region Lambayeque, and Tumbes Amazonas and Cordillera Blanca Mountain Range Central Region and surrounding areas Paracas Huánuco and Junín Southern Region Nazca and Abancay and and Madre de Dios and the Colca Valley and

PRIMATES Small Tamarin Marmosets Night monkeys Dusky monkeys Common squirrel monkeys Medium-sized primates Capuchin monkeys Saki monkeys Large primates Howler monkeys Woolly monkeys monkeys

MARINE Main

BUTTERFLIES Areas of interest

WILD The forests of Tumbes The dry forest The The Hills The cloud forests The tropical jungle

www.peru.org.pe [email protected] 1 Traveler’s Guide WILDLIFE WATCHINGTraveler’s IN PERU Guide WILDLIFE WATCHING IN PERU

ORCHIDS Tumbes and Piura Amazonas and San Martín Huánuco and Tingo María Cordillera Blanca Chanchamayo Valley Machu Picchu Manu and Tambopata

RECOMMENDATIONS LOCATION AND CLIMATE

www.peru.org.pe [email protected] 2 Traveler’s Guide WILDLIFE WATCHINGTraveler’s IN PERU Guide WILDLIFE WATCHING IN PERU

Peru, The Natural Destination

Peru is, undoubtedly, one of the world’s top desti- For Peru, nature-tourism and eco-tourism repre- nations for nature-lovers. Blessed with the richest sent an opportunity to share its many surprises ocean in the world, largely unexplored Amazon for- and charm with the rest of the world. This guide ests and the highest tropical mountain range on provides descriptions of the main groups of species Pthe planet, the possibilities for the development of the country offers nature-lovers; trip recommen- bio-diversity in its territory are virtually unlim- dations; information on destinations; services and ited. With a little over 10% of all species of institutions dedicated to related issues of interest. and on earth and a surprisingly diverse range of climates and ecosystems, Peru has be- The species in this guide are listed according to come a modern Noah’s Ark for nature-lovers, who main areas of observation. The listings do not fol- along with students from all over the world, visit low any strict scientific consideration, rather, the Peru to chalk up more experience, gain new knowl- contents are listed in a user-friendly format. The edge and to get to know unique varieties. objective is to provide the reader with an opportu- nity to observe some of the endemic and/or most A few hours drive is all it takes to get from the representative specimens of the species in each larger cities to virtually unspoiled areas that are zone. Although Peru also possesses an important interconnected with one another. The farming and number of other species such as reptiles, native communities in these areas hold a vast store and amphibians, these have been excluded from of knowledge on the wildlife that fills their sur- this guide following the criteria established above. roundings. Experienced companies that are ac- quainted with the land will provide efficient, world- class services.

Lachay Hillocks, Lima 000PromPerú

www.peru.org.pe [email protected] 3 Traveler’s Guide WILDLIFE WATCHINGTraveler’s IN PERU Guide WILDLIFE WATCHING IN PERU

Birds

The late Theodore Parker III, famous American The birds of -Olmos-Porculla field ornithologist once said “Peru offers ‘-en- (27 – 2.150 masl) thusiasts’ more than any other country in the Tworld… Being here is like being a child visiting a From an ornithological point of view, the true point huge store filled with new and fascinating toys”. of interest starts at the Olmos detour leading to- He was right. ward Jaén and Bagua, climbing toward the Porculla mountain corridor (2.000 masl) –the low- Peru possesses an extraordinary ornithological di- est mountain pass in the Peruvian Andes. The area versity. New species are continually being discov- around Olmos is also the of the White- ered every year in its cloud-forests and Amazon winged Guan, a species rediscovered in Peru only jungles, as well as in its rugged mountains and 20 years ago, which was brought back from the inter-Andean valleys. At last count, there were brink of imminent extinction. The different eco- 1.710 registered species (close to 20% of the world’s systems are laid out in succession along the as- total), of which more than 300 are endemic. Fur- cending paved highway: dry tropical forests, shrub thermore, Peru holds the record for the most spe- areas, higher altitude forests, and finally the arid cies in a single place (650 in the area surrounding Marañón Valley, close to Bagua, which is studded the Explorer’s Inn lodge, located in the jungles of with cacti. Tambopata) and the record for the highest num- ber of species seen in a single day (361 in the area Black-cowled Saltator (Saltator nigriceps) surrounding the Biological Station of Cocha Cashu, Chapman’s Antshrike ( zarumae) in Manu). Henna-hooded Foliage-gleaner (Hylocryptus erythrocephalus) For birdwatchers, Peru is a true paradise. It is Long-tailed Mockingbird (Mimus longicaudatus) filled with species dwelling in unique and fragile Pearl Kite (Gampsonyx swainsonii) , large migratory birds arriving from the Peruvian -cutter (Phytotoma raimondii) most remote parts of the world and with species Savannah Hawk (Heterospizias meridionalis) that, having disappeared in other countries, flour- Tropical ( plumbea) ish in unexplored corners of the country. These White-winged Guan (Penelope albipennis) giant flocks are a fundamental element in the life cycles of the sea, jungle and Andean lakes. The birds of Canchaque-Huancabamba (1.800 – 3.000 masl) Northern Region The city of Piura, located three hours north of Lambayeque, Piura and Tumbes Chiclayo, is situated on the northern border of the large Sechura desert. It is one of the most impor- Chiclayo is a noisy, bustling city located 763 km tant cities on the North coast and has all the ser- north of Lima. The city marches to the daily rhythm vices required by tourists, as well as excellent set by two compelling forces: the desert heat (the beaches and public bathing spots. It can be reached siesta or afternoon nap is an unbreakable law) and by the North Pan-American highway (980 km from the intense commercial activity with the commu- Lima) or by air. Birdwatchers should, however, nities to the east. Bird-watchers should take the head for the mountains to find the most interest- highway that leads to the nearby city of ing species in the region. Lambayeque (12 km north) and from there head towards Olmos on the old North Pan-American The recommended route is up the rough-grade road highway. This route cuts through an extensive leading to Huancabamba (210 km east of Piura, a section dotted with carob trees (Prosopis pallida) five-hour trip). Along the winding road, travelers and marmalade trees (Capparis longifolia), and will see the desert vegetation give way to a spec- includes communities of major archaeological im- tacular high-altitude forest that is thickest in the portance such as Jayanca and Mocupe. area around the Cruz Blanca mountain pass (3.000

www.peru.org.pe [email protected] 4 Traveler’s Guide WILDLIFE WATCHINGTraveler’s IN PERU Guide WILDLIFE WATCHING IN PERU

masl), where queñual forests (Polylepis sp.) can Scarlet-backed Woodpecker (Veniliornis callonotus) be found, and in the valley next to the community Short-tailed Woodstart (Myrmia micrura) of Canchaque (1.800 masl). The area around Superciliated (Thryothorus superciliaris) Huancabamba has been turned into agricultural Tumbes Tyrant (Tumbezia salvini)• land, but a good part of the forest still survives. White-edged Oriole (Icterus graceannae) Yellow Warbler (Dendroica petechia) Azure Jay (Cyanocorax mystacalis) Yellow-tailed Oriole (Icterus mesomelas) Bearded Guan (Penelope barbata) Crested (Polyborus plancus) Amazonas and Cajamarca Golden-headed Quetzal (Pharomachrus auriceps) Gray-headed (Myrmeciza griseiceps) The ecosystems of the department of Amazonas in Line-cheeked Spinetail (Cranioleuca antisiensis) the extreme northeastern section of the country Purple-throated Sunangel (Heliangelus viola) are marked by three great rivers that traverse it Rainbow Starfrontlet ( iris) from north to south: the Santiago River, draining Three-banded Warbler (Basileuterus trifasciatus) the cloud forests of the Cordillera del Cóndor (Con- Unicolored ( unicolor) dor Mountain Range), the Marañón River, filling an extensive and arid valley in contrast to the tropi- The birds of Tumbes cal environment of the region, and the Utcubamba, (0 – 900 masl) winding through lush cloud forests. The combina- tion of these environments that differ in climate, Although Tumbes is the smallest of Peru’s depart- species and topography has created conditions for ments, it is, paradoxically, one of the richest in unique birdlife, which teems with endemic spe- natural diversity. This region fascinates natural- cies or species with a restricted habitat. Access to ists and of course birdwatchers. Its tropical beaches Chachapoyas, the capital of Amazonas is via a high- give way to dry forests, mangroves and . way (Chiclayo to Cajamarca), although penetra- tion into its more pristine areas must be done by The species that inhabit the ravines and thick river. Although few realize this, the department of underbrush in the areas close to the small port of Cajamarca, on the western side of the Marañón Puerto Pizarro are considered to be among the most River, holds a great and natural geographic diver- interesting ones because of their rarity. The birds sity. Punas, mountains, inter-Andean valleys, found in the Tumbes Reserved Zone at 500-900 cloud jungles and tropical forests can be found along masl, are also worthy of interest. This small but an extensive highway system not often taken by well-preserved wooded area is located a four-hour visitors and filled with excellent opportunities for drive from the city of Tumbes and is one of the last birdwathers. Rare, endemic species abound on the tropical forests of the Pacific. The reserve was set eastern slopes, especially those close to the high up to protect local flora and fauna. jungle. The city of Cajamarca, an ideal spot to or- ganize a visit, is accessible via regular 50 minute Amazilia (Amazilia amazilia) commercial flights and by the coastal highway Baird’s Flycatcher (Myiodynastes bairdii) (take the turn-off at kilometer 683 of the Pan- Collared Antshrike ( bernardi) American Highway North) or Chachapoyas. Common (Sarkidiornis melanotos) Fasciated Wren ( fasciatus) The birds of Bagua and Rioja Gray-backed Hawk (Leucopternis occidentalis)• (600 – 750 masl) Long-tailed Mockingbird (Mimus longicaudatus) Masked Water-tyrant (Fluvicola nengueta) In Amazonas, a recently-paved route that starts Mountain Gwan (Penelope purpurescens) at the community of Bagua –some 57 km from the Necklaced Spinetail ( stictothorax) city of Jaén, in Cajamarca– is of great interest. (Forpus coelestis) This route leading to Pedro Ruiz and Rioja runs Peruvian Red-breasted Meadowlark through beautiful cloud-forests at the Tanagerna (Sturnella belicosa) mountain pass, as well as through tropical moun- Piura Chat-tyrant (Ochoteca piurae)• tain forests that are right next to the highway. Rufous-headed Chachalaca (Chachalaca rojiza) The only known communities in which one can Rufous Flycatcher ( semirufus) observe two extremely rare and interesting en-

Note: Scientific nomenclature follows Parker, Parker & Plenge (1982), Buteo Books. The symbol • indicates endemic species.

www.peru.org.pe [email protected] 5 Traveler’s Guide WILDLIFE WATCHINGTraveler’s IN PERU Guide WILDLIFE WATCHING IN PERU

demic species, the Long-whiskered Owlet The birds of the queñual forests (Xenogalux loweryi) and the Marvelous Spatuletail (3.000 – 4.200 masl) (Loddigesia mirabilis) are found in this region. The Cordillera Blanca Mountain Range has much The birds of the Marañón Valley to offer trekkers, mountaineers, cyclists, fisher- (900 masl) men and of course, birdwatchers. People with alti- tude-related problems can visit the unique queñual One final, long route, generally in poor condition, forests located at lower altitudes in the park, such but frequently visited by nature-lovers and scien- as the one bordering Lake Llanganuco. This is a tists, is the 294-km stretch of highway that inter- very special habitat consisting of unique flora and connects the communities of Leimebamba (south fauna that have adapted to high altitude. of Chachapoyas) with Balsas, Celendín and Cajamarca (850 km, northeast of Lima). The re- Black Phoebe (Metallura phoebe) ward awaiting at the end of the long journey is the Blue Dacnis (Xenodacnis parina) spectacular Marañón valley, home to the many Chiguanco Thrush (Turdus chiguanco) species endemic to this region. A recommended Giant Conebill (Oreomanes fraseri) lodge is the old “Hacienda Limón”, situated on the Line-cheeked Spinetail (Cranioleuca antisiensis) eastern side of the valley, only a few kilometers Pied-crested Tit-tyrant (Anairetes reguloides) east of Balsas. Treks to the most interesting forest Rufous-napped Brush- (Atlapetes rufinucha) areas start here. Rufous-webbed Tyrant (Xolmis rufipennis) Rusty-crowned Tit-Spinetail Buff-bridled (Incaspiza laeta)• (Leptasthenura pileata)• Chestnut-backed Thornbird Shining Sunbeam (Aglaectis cupripennis) (Phacellodomus dorsalis) Stripe-headed Antpita (Grallaria andicola) Gray-winged Inca Finch (Incaspiza ortizi)• White-faced Cotinga (Zaratornis stresemanni)• Great Spinetail (Siptornopsis hypochondriacus)• Line-cheeked Spinetail (Cranioleuca antisiensis) The birds of the puna (Incaspiza watkinsi)• (3.500 masl) Marañón Crescentchest (Melanopareia maranonica)• The lake, mountains and shrub-covered hillsides Marañón Thrush (Turdus maranonicus)o of the Callejón de Huaylas are excellent for bird- Pacific Parrotlet (Forpus xanthops) watching. The most interesting species are the Peruvian Pigeon (Columba oenops)• and other aquatic fowl, specially adapted to Red-crested Finch (Coryphospingus cucullatus)o feet on mud-dwelling , such as the Rufous-fronted Thornbird Puna Ibis and the Andean . (Phacellodomus rufifrons)• Spot-throated Hummingbird Andean Condor (Vultur gryphus) (Leucippus taczanowskii) Andean Goose (Chloephaga melanoptera) White-winged Blackbird (Sayornis nigricans) Andean ( serranus) Andean Lapwing (Vanellus resplendens) Cordillera Blanca Mountain Range Black Siskin (Carduelis atrata) Black-billed Shrike-Tyrant (Agriornis montana) One of the most spectacular natural scenic areas Black-chested Buzzard Eagle in the country is, without a doubt, the Callejón de (Geranoaetus melanoleucus) Huaylas. The Cordillera Blanca Mountain Range, Crested Duck (Anas specularioides) the highest tropical mountain range in the world, Giant (Fulica gigantea) is a paradise of lakes, glaciers, snow-capped moun- Giant Hummingbird (Patagona gigas) tains and high-altitude forests that lie within Mountain Caracara (Phalcobaenus albogularis) Huascarán National Park, named after the high- Plain-capped Ground-tyrant est mountain in the country (6.768 masl). (Muscisaxicola alpina) and the other cities in the area are easily acces- Puna Hawk (Buteo poecilochrous) sible from Lima via a paved highway that is in Puna Ibis (Plegadis ridgwayi) good condition (410 km northeast of Lima). There Speckled Teal (Anas flavirostris) are several hotels and restaurants in the area, as Yellow-billed Pintail (Anas georgica) well as companies that provide logistic services at very reasonable prices.

www.peru.org.pe [email protected] 6 Traveler’s Guide WILDLIFE WATCHINGTraveler’s IN PERU Guide WILDLIFE WATCHING IN PERU

Central Region Ruddy Turnstone (Arenaria interpres) Spotted Sandpiper (Actitis macularia) Lima and surrounding areas Whimbrel (Numenius phaeopus)

The birds of Lima’s parks and gardens The birds of the Villa wetlands (73 masl) (5 – 15 masl)

For obvious reasons, birdwatching in the capital The capital also has some wetlands and marshes. city is less interesting than in the field. However, The 396 hectares included in the Villa Reserved Lima’s parks and gardens attract some species Zone (18 km south), with more than 160 resident that are worth mentioning. The White-winged Dove and migratory species, is ideal for the observation and Croaking Ground-Dove are very abundant of some interesting birds. Without a doubt, the while the Amazilia Hummingbird is the most com- ones that stand out are the Egrets (seven species) mon hummingbird seen. Standing out among the and some temporary residents such as the Osprey, Flycatchers are the Southern-beardless Tyrannulet arriving annually from its North American nest- and the colored Vermilion Flycatcher, whose mela- ing grounds and the Artic tern, whose migratory nic phase (totally black) is unusually abundant circuit is considered to be the longest in the world: all along the Peruvian Coast. from the Arctic Circle to the Antarctic.

Amazilia Hummingbird (Amazilia amazilia) American Coot (Fulica ardesiaca) American Kestrel (Falco sparverius) Artic tern (sterna paradisaea) Blue-and-white Swallow (Notiochelidon Cinnamon Teal (Anas cyanoptera) cyanoleuca) Common Gallinule (Gallinula chloropus) Blue-black Grassquit (Volatinia jacarina) Great Egret (Casmerodius albus) Croaking Ground-Dove (Columbina cruziana) Great Grebe (Podiceps major) Chestnut-throated Seedeater (Sporophila telasco) Greater Red-breasted Meadowlark Hooded Siskin (Carduelis magellanica) (Sturnella belicosa) Rufous-collared Sparrow (Zonotrichia capensis) Many-colored Rush Tyrant (Tachuris rubrigastra) Scrub Blackbird (Molothrus bonariensis) Osprey (Pandion haliaetus) Southern-beardless Tyrannulet Pied-billed Grebe (Podilymbus podiceps) (Camptostoma obsoletum) Plumbeous (Rallus sanguinolentus) Vermilion Flycatcher (Pyrocephalus rubinus) Snowy Egret (Egretta thula) White-winged Dove (Zenaida asiatica) White-cheeked Pintail (Anas bahamensis) White-tufted Grebe (Rollandia rolland) The birds of Lima’s beaches Wren-like Rushbird (Phleocryptes melanops) (0 – 50 masl) Yellowish Pippit (Anthus lutescens)

Many of the typical, cold-current Peruvian bird Paracas species such as guano birds, can be observed rela- tively easily from beaches, especially those of Villa The main bird-watching center is the Paracas and Lurín (18 and 24 km south of Lima, respec- National Reserve, located 250 km south of Lima. tively) where observation is fairly easy. For those Access is down a paved highway. There are many interested in getting a closer look at these birds, hotels and hostels in the area and camping is also boats are available for rent in the port of permitted. The big beaches and rocky coastline of and in the southern fishing cove of Pucusana (some Paracas attract hundreds of different species of 60 km south of Lima). shore-birds, especially between the months of May and September when migration is in full swing. Band-tailed Gull (Larus belcheri) From Paracas, tourists can take daily excursions Common Term (Sterna hirundo) to the Ballestas Islands (a 3-hour trip). These offer Franklin Gull (Larus pipixcan) an excellent opportunity for birdwatchers to ob- Gray Gull (Larus modestus) serve colonies of guano birds and a large variety of Guanay Cormorant (Phalacrocorax bougainvillii) Northamerican shore-birds (plovers and sandpip- Peruvian Booby (Sula variegata) ers) up-close, as well as to view the singular Peruvian Pelican (Pelecanus thagus) Humboldt penguin, a species native to the Cold Peruvian Current. In summer the majestic

www.peru.org.pe [email protected] 7 Traveler’s Guide WILDLIFE WATCHINGTraveler’s IN PERU Guide WILDLIFE WATCHING IN PERU

Andean Condor is a habitual visitor of areas where an altitude range of almost 5.000 meters. Although sea lions congregate, while in winter these coasts it is possible to make the Lima - Tingo María trip are visited by birds from the Andean Highlands in 14 or 15 hours of straight driving, a birdwatcher such as the Puna Plover, the Tawny-throated Dot- must take at least four days to to get an overall terel and, from the Central Coast, the Peruvian vision of the complex and abundant birdlife of this Thick-knee. This region’s coast and cliffs are ideal region. The best places to overnight are the cities places for birdwatching and are why Paracas is of San Mateo, Huánuco and Tingo María, which synonymous with birdlife. offer travelers adequate tourist services (hotels and restaurants). The birds of Paracas (0 - 250 masl) The birds of the Central Highway (800 – 4.000 masl) Andean Condor (Vultur gryphus) Black Skimmer (Rynchops nigra) It is suggested that the first day be spent in the Blackish Oystercatcher (Haematopus ater) area between Lima and the community of San Common Oystercatcher (Haematopus ostralegus) Mateo (95 km to the east, at 3.000 masl), a small Chilean Flamingo (Phoenicopterus ruber) section that will serve to introduce the mountain- Elegant Tern ( elegans) birds of the central region. The second day should Gray Gull (Larus modestus) be dedicated to the circuit consisting of the com- Guanay Cormorant (Phalacrocorax bougainvillii) munities of Casapalca, Chinchán and Humboldt Penguin (Spheniscus humboldti) Marcapomacocha, mining areas at more than Inca Tern (Larosterna inca)• 4.000 masl surrounded by lakes and high-Andean (Larus dominicanus) pasturelands. Peregrine Falcon (Falco peregrinus) Peruvian Booby (Sula variegata) Andean Swift (Aeronautes andicola) Peruvian Diving-petrel (Pelecanoides gardnotii)• Ash-breasted Sierra Finch (Phrygilus plebejus) Peruvian Pelican (Pelecanus thagus) Band-tailed Sierra Finch (Phrygilus alaudinus) Peruvian Tern (Sterna lorata)• Bare-faced Ground-dove (Metriopelia ceciliae) Peruvian Thick-knee (Burhinus superciliaris)• Chiguanco Thrush (Turdus chiguanco) Puna Plover (Charadrius alticola) Groove-billed Ani (Crotophaga sulcirostris) Red-legged Cormorant (Phalacrocorax gaimardi) Long-tailed Mockingbird (Mimus longicaudatus) Sea-side Cinclodes (Cinclodes nigrofumosus) Morning Dove (Zenaida auriculata) Tawny-throated Dotterel (Oreopholus ruficollis) Morning Sierra Finch (Phrygilus fruticeti) Turkey Vulture (Cathartes aura) Mountain Parakeet (Bolborhynchus aurifrons) Oasis Hummingbird (Rodopis vesper) Ocean or open-sea species Peruvian Dipper (Cinclus leucocephalus) (0 masl) Peruvian Sheartail (Thaumastura cora)o Red-backed Hawk (Buteo polyosoma) Cape Petrel (Daption capense) Rufous-napped Brush-Finch (Atlapetes nationi) Great Skua (Catharacta skua) Rufous-winged Cinclodes (Cinclodes fuscus) Sooty Shearwater (Puffinus griseus) Striated Earthcreeper (Upucerthia serrana) Southern Fulmar (Fulmarus glacialoides) White-tipped Dove (Leptotila verreauxi) Swallow-tailed Gull (Creagrus furcatus) Yellow Grossbeak (Pheucticus chrysopeplus) White-vented Storm Petrel (Oceanites gracilis) Yellow-billed Tit-Tyrant (Anairetes flavirostris) Wilson’s Storm Petrel (Oceanites oceanicus) The birds of Lake Junín and surrounding Huánuco and Junín areas (3.800 masl) The Central Highway starting in Lima and head- ing in an easterly direction straight up the Andes A third section of the route takes us to Huánuco is considered to be one of the engineering marvels (410 km northeast of Lima, paved highway) and of the world. This highway connects the capital, passes by Chinchaycocha or the great Lake Junín, in the coastal desert, with mountain valleys and a paradise of high-Andean waterfowl and home to cities and with the Amazon jungle. It crosses the rare Puna Grebe, of which only a few dozen through an enormous variety of ecosystems within remain.

www.peru.org.pe [email protected] 8 Traveler’s Guide WILDLIFE WATCHINGTraveler’s IN PERU Guide WILDLIFE WATCHING IN PERU

The final section should be left for the area be- tween Huánuco and Tingo María (129 km, paved highway). Special attention should be given to the Paso de Carpish (2.700 masl) area, one of the country’s most accessible tropical cloud-forest and to the famous caves of Guans and Owlets, located on the outskirts of Tingo María.

Andean Coot (Fulica ardesiaca) Andean Duck (Oxyura ferruginea) Andean Goose (Chloephaga melanoptera) Andean Gull (Larus serranus) Gallito de las Rocas, Cuzco Andean Pflicker (Colaptes rupicola) Heinz Plenge / PromPerú Andean Snipe (Gallinago andina) Black-faced Ibis (Theristicus melanopis) Golden-headed Quetzal Cinereous Harrier (Circus cinereus) (Pharomachrus auriceps) Common Gallinule (Gallinula chloropus) Lira Nightjar (Uropsalis lyra) Puna Grebe (Podiceps taczanowskii)• Peruvian Cock-of-the-rocks (Rupicola peruviana) Puna Ibis (Plegadis ridgwayi) Peruvian Dipper (Cinclus leucocephalus) Puna Teal (Anas puna) Plain-breasted Ground-dove Rufous-backed Negrito (Lessonia oreas) (Columbina minuta)• Silvery Grebe (Podiceps occipitalis) Swallow (Tersina viridis) White-tufted Grebe (Rollandia rolland) Torrent Tyrannulet (Serpophaga cinerea) Yellow-headed Blackbird Tropical Kingbird (Tyrannus melancholicus) (Agelaius icterocephalus) Tropical Parula (Parula pitiayumi) White-bellied Hummingbird The birds of the Huánuco-Carpish area (Amazilia chionogaster) (2.000 – 3.000 masl) The birds of Tingo María and surrounding The area of Carpish is a classic example of a high- areas altitude mountain pass or corridor featuring a (600 masl) transition between two very different environ- ments: the Andean steppes and the cloud-forest. Tingo María offers a typical rainforest setting with This area is almost constantly covered by fog and tropical jungle, riverside forests (a tributary of the has abundant and dense forests as well as patches Huallaga river runs along the outlying areas of of high-altitude bamboo, a very important habitat the city) and abundant limestone caves that serve for the birds of this region. This area is filled with as a refuge for the colonies of tayos or oil-birds, the mixed flocks consisting of dozens of species of wood only birds active at night that feed on fruit. Trav- creepers (Dendrocolaptidae), elers are recommended to take some of the rough- (Thraupidae), contingas (Cotingidae), brown jobs grade roads and trails that enter the Tingo Maria (Furnariidae), tyrant-flycatchers (Tyrannidae), National Park, and, above all, the road to antshrikes (Formicariidae) and that crosses the Cordillera Azul (Blue Mountain (Tinamidae). Range), which is 40 km from the city, at 1.580 masl, on the border between the departments of Amazon Umbrellabird (Cephalopterus ornatus) Huánuco and Ucayali. Black-and-white Seedeater (Sporophila luctuosa) Black-bellied Tanager (Ramphocelus melanogaster) Bay-headed Tanager (Tangara gyrola) Blue-grey Tanager (Thraupis episcopus) Black-mandibled Toucan (Ramphastos ambiguus) Cliff Flycatcher (Hyrundinea ferruginea) Blue-browed Tanager (Tangara cyanotis) Fasciated Tiger-Heron (Tigrisoma fasciatum) Blue-headed Macaw (Ara couloni) Fasciated Wren (Campylorhynchus fasciatus) Cested Foliage Gleaner (Automolus dorsalis) Golden-collared Common Piping-Guan (Aburria aburri) (Iridophanes pulcherrima) Golden Tanager (Tangara arthus) Golden-crowned Flycatcher Golden-Crowned Tanager (Tangara rufivertex) (Myiodinastes chrysocephalus) Golden-eared Tanager (Tangara chrysotis)

www.peru.org.pe [email protected] 9 Traveler’s Guide WILDLIFE WATCHINGTraveler’s IN PERU Guide WILDLIFE WATCHING IN PERU

Golden-headed Quetzal (Pharomachrus auriceps) Bearded Mountaineer (Oreonympha nobilis) Green and Gold Tanager (Tangara schrankii) Blue Dacnis (Xenodacnis parina) Oilbird (Steatornis caripensis) Canastero (Asthenes cactorum)o Orange-billed Sparrow Coursen’s Spinetail (Synallaxis coursenii) (Arremon aurantiirostris) Creamy-crested Spinetail (Cranioleuca albicapilla) Paradise Tanager (Tangara chilensis) Chestnut-breasted Mountain Finch Rufous-tailed Antwren (Myrmotherula erythrura) (Poospizopsis caesar) Sooty Antbird (Myrmeciza fortis) Chilean Flamingo (Phoenicopterus ruber) Spotted Tanager (Tangara punctata) Giant Coot (Fulica gigantea) Spot-winged Antbird (Percnostola leucostigma) Raimondi’s Yellow Finch (Sicalis raimondii) Stipple-throated Antwren Rusty-fronted Canastero (Asthenes ottonis) (Myrmotherula haematonota) Spot-winged Pigeon (Columba maculosa) Vermillion Tanager (Calochaetes coccineus) Thick-billed Miner (Geositta crassirostris) White-eared Puffbird (Nystalus chacuru) Southern Region White-winged Black tyrant (Knipolegus aterrimus)

Nazca and Abancay Cusco and Machu Picchu

Although this is not a route often taken by tourists, Few visitors to Peru do not spend at least a few the recently paved road starts at Nazca (450 km days in the city of Cusco, attracted by its archaeo- south of Lima) travels through Puquio and reaches logical, architectural, folkloric and mystic legacy. Abancay. This highway offers many good possibili- Nevertheless, it should be noted that Cusco also ties of observing interesting birds while visiting the offers an astonishing variety of species held in high most characteristic habitats of the southern Andes. regard by the world’s ornithologists. Travelers will also be treated to a view of both the Nazca Lines, at the beginning of the journey and of The birds of Huacarpay and the area sur- the country’s largest herd of wild vicuñas, when rounding Cusco they pass through the Pampa Galeras-Bárbara (3.000 masl) D’Achile National Reserve (4.000 masl). This re- serve contains many flocks of this graceful camelids One spot that definitely must be visited is Lake that can be seen very closely and in their natural Huacarpay or Lucre (3.000 masl), located 25 km setting. When taking this journey keep in mind south of Cusco on the paved highway leading to that only the cities of Nazca and Abancay offer tourist Puno. This ecosystem is the best place to glimpse services (lodging and restaurants). the main birds of this region. It consists of a large, still lake, extensive patches of totora reeds and The birds of the Nazca-Abancay area flooded areas. The surrounding hillsides are cov- (600 – 3.200 masl) ered by cacti and other shrubs. The highway that runs through the Sacred Valley, between the com- The many priairies and meadowlands, queñual munities of Urubamba and Ollantaytambo, also forests, lakes and inter-Andean valleys of this re- includes interesting viewing points, despite this gion follow one another, and offer great possibili- being a more populated area, altered by agricul- ties for observing unique and special birdlife. At ture. Puquio, the route behind the high flatlands and enters a dry and sheltered valley (2.500 masl), American Kestrel (Falco sparverius) with singular climatic conditions, owing to the Andean Gull (Larus serranus) presence of the Pachachaca river and its riverside Andean Lapwing (Vanellus cayanus) forests. Finally, close to Abancay (3.050 masl), the Aplomado Falcon (Falco femoralis) route ascends once again, yielding agricultural and Ash-breasted Sierra-finch (Phrygilus plebejus) shrubbery areas ideal for some species of humming- Band-tailed Seedeater (Catamenia analis) birds, seedeaters and siskins. The Ampay National Bare-faced Ground-dove (Metriopelia ceciliae) Sanctuary is located close to the city and houses Bearded Mountaineer (Oreonympha nobilis) the last temperate forests in the southern part of Blue-and-yellow Tanager (Thraupis bonariensis) the country. Its dense patches of intimpa Chiguanco Thrush (Turdus chiguanco) (Podocarpus olifolius), Peru’s only native conifer- Giant Hummingbird (Patagona gigas) ous tree, provide the habitat for a variety of birds Greenish Yellow-Finch (Sicalis olivascens) endemic to this peculiar environment. Green-tailed Trainbearer (Lesbia nuna)

www.peru.org.pe [email protected] 10 Traveler’s Guide WILDLIFE WATCHINGTraveler’s IN PERU Guide WILDLIFE WATCHING IN PERU

Mourning Sierra -finch (Phrygilus fruticeti) The birds of the Machu Picchu Historical Plumbeous Rail (Rallus sanguinolentus) Sanctuary Puna Ground-Tyrant (Muscisaxicola juninensis) (1.800 masl) Puna Ibis (Plegadis ridgwayi) Rufous-backed Negrito (Lessonia oreas) Although the area next to Machu Picchu is the Rufous-collared Sparrow (Zonotrichia capensis) habitat of some species of interest for birdwatchers, Rufous-napped Ground-Tyrant it is the forests along the Urubamba River, located (Muscisaxicola rufivertex) below the archaeological site at the heart of this Rusty-fronted Canastero (Asthenes ottonis) Sanctuary, that are ideal for a successful ornitho- Slender-billed Miner (Geositta tenuirostris) logical excursion. It is advisable to do these tours Sparkling Violetear (Colibri coruscans) on foot starting from the railway line at the com- Speckled Teal (Anas flavirostris) munity of Aguas Calientes (the community of Spot-billed Ground-Tyrant Machu Picchu) and following the river downstream (Muscisaxicola maculirostris) for a few kilometers. This area is covered in dense White-browed Chat-tyrant (Ochtoeca leucophrys) tropical vegetation. What stands out in this foli- Wren-like Rushbird (Phleocryptes melanops) age are the patches of high-altitude bamboo that Yellow-billed Tit-tyrant (Anairetes flavirostris) are the habitat par excellence of an enormous num- Yellow-winged Blackbird (Agelaius thilius) ber of mountain forest species such as the spec- tacular Peruvian Cock-of-the-Rocks, Peru’s na- The birds of the Málaga Mountain Pass and tional bird. Contributing to the beauty of the area of the San Luis cloud forests are the abundant orchids and arborial ferns, con- (3.500 – 2.900 masl) sidered to be the Sanctuary’s most treasured plants. On the other hand there ar an estimated On the other hand, the dirt track between 400 species of birds. Ollantaytambo and the jungle community of Quillabamba gives the visitor the chance to pass Black-tailed Trainbearer (Lesbia victoriae) through an incredible range of altitudes and eco- Black-throated -piercer systems, as well as offering breath-taking views (Diglossa brunneiventris) of nearby snow-capped peaks, in particular Blue-and-white Swallow (Notiochelidon Verónica (5.750 masl). As the winding road leaves cyanoleuca) the Inca community of Ollantaytambo, it heads Blue-crowned Tanager (Tangara cyanocephala) toward a high mountain pass (Málaga), featuring Cinereous Conebill (Conirostrum cinereum) abundant wetlands and lakes. An accelerated de- Flower-piercer (Diglossa sittoides) scent begins here and leads into a beautiful cloud- Inca Wren (Thryothorus inca) forest that is perhaps the best preserved forest in Peruvian Cock-of-the-Rocks (Rupicola peruviana)• the region. To explore this area, it is advisable to Peruvian Dipper (Cinclus leucocephalus) use as a reference mark the spot known as San Rufescent Tiger Heron (Tigrisoma lineatum) Luis. This area, besides being abundant in many Rufous-collared Sparrow (Zonotrichia capensis) endemic bird species, is considered by birdwatchers Rufous-golden Tanager (Tangara ruficeps) as a definite destination in any journey through Rufous-napped Brush-Finch (Atlapetes rufinucha) the Peruvian Andes. Sierran Elaenia (Elaenia pallatangae) Spectacled Redstart (Myioborus melanocephalus) Andean Condor (Vultur gryphus) Streaked-necked Flycatcher Andean Swift (Apus andecolus) (Mionectes striaticollis) Black-throated Flower-piercer Torrent Duck (Merganetta armata) (Diglossa brunneiventris) Torrent Tyrannulet (Serpophaga cinerea) Brown-bellied Swallow (Notiochelidon murina) Tufted Tit-tyrant (Anairetes parulus) Creamy-crested Spinetail (Cranioleuca albicapilla) White-crested Elaenia (Elaenia albiceps) Gray-hooded Sierra-Finch (Phrygilus gayi) White-winged Black bird (Sayornis litoralis) Hooded Siskin (Carduelis magellanica) Orange-billed Saltator (Saltator aurantiirostris) Puerto Maldonado and Madre de Dios Rusty-fronted Canastero (Asthenes ottonis) Shining Sunbeam (Aglaectis cupripennis) Puerto Maldonado is a fast-growing border town. White-tufted Sunbeam (Aglaectis castelnaudii) It is located where the Tambopata and Madre de

www.peru.org.pe [email protected] 11 Traveler’s Guide WILDLIFE WATCHINGTraveler’s IN PERU Guide WILDLIFE WATCHING IN PERU

Dios Rivers join. What was just a motley collec- Neotropic Cormorant (Phalacrocorax olivaceus) tion of wooden homes with corrugated iron roofs Orinoco Goose (Neochen jubata) has been transformed into the shining gateway to Pale-winged Trumpetier (Psophia leucoptera) the southeastern Peruvian jungle. The local in- Razor-billed Curassow (Crax mitu) habitants of this city have fittingly christened it Red-and-green Macaw (Ara chloroptera) “the World Capital of Biodiversity”. Its tropical for- Road-side Hawk (Buteo magnirostris) ests hold more species of plants and animals than Rufescent Tiger Heron (Tigrisoma lineatum) in any other spot in the world, and birds are no Russet-backed Oropendola exception. (Psarocolius angustifrons) Sand-colored Nighthawk (Chordeiles rupestris) The birds of Manu and Tambopata Scarlet Macaw (Ara macao) (300 masl) Screaming Piha (Lipaugus vociferans) Spix’s Guan (Penelope jacquacu) One of the spots that is a “must-see” for any seri- Tropical Kingbird (Tyrannus melancholicus) ous birdwatcher, is Explorer’s Inn, a friendly lodge Undulated ( undulatus) just a three-hour boatride upstream from Wattled Jacana (Jacana jacana) Tambopata –accessible from Puerto Maldonado. White-and-green Swallow (Tachicineta albiventer) This lodge is famous for holding the world record White-necked Heron (Ardea cocoi) for the most species registered in any one day in Yellow-headed Parrot (Amazona ochroceophala) one specific area: more than 650! But if it’s records Yellow-rumped Cacique (Cacicus cela) we are talking about, the Manu jungles hold an even more amazing diversity: specialists calculate Arequipa and the Colca Valley that over 1.000 different species of birds can be found in the park’s ecosystems. From Cusco Manu In spite of its location in the desert spurs of the can be reached by small aircraft landing in Boca southern Andes, the White City is especially at- Manu. The next leg of the trip is via launch (five tractive to visiting nature lovers, as apart from hours to Manu). Another way of reaching the Manu satisfying the cultural and gastronomic demand is via a rough-dirt road from Cusco to the commu- of the most demanding of tourists, it is also a gate- nities of Atalaya (nine hours) and Shintuya (12 way to some of the most spectacular areas in the hours), followed by five-hour river journey. There southern region of Peru: the National Sanctuary are many hostels and lodges along the most im- of Lagunas de Mejía (Mejía Lakes), the National portant rivers and these offer travelers all the fa- Reserve of Salinas y Aguada Blanca and the Colca cilities to make their stay in the tropical jungle Valley. Lagunas de Mejía, located 150 km, or two pleasant and safe. Many of these also have a good hours, from Arequipa, south of the outlet of the system of paths and trained guides who will lead Tambo river, consist of flooded lands covered in visitors to the marvels of the Amazon forest. Puerto swampy vegetation and bull-rushes. These lakes Maldonado and Tambopata offer all basic tourist offer rest and refuge to many resident and migra- services, including daily flights to Cusco. tory birds. January through March are the best months for observing this area’s main species. Amazon Kingfisher (Chloroceryle amazona) American Caracara (Daptrius americanus) The birds of Salinas y Aguada Blanca and of Black-capped Mockingthrush the Colca Valley (Donacobius atricapillus) (3.200 – 3.700 masl) Black-collared Hawk (Busarellus nigricollis) Black-faced Antthrush (Formicarius analis) Access to Salinas y Aguada Blanca is via some of Black-fronted Nunbird (Monasa nigrifrons) the rough-grade roads originating in Arequipa and Blue-and-yellow Macaw (Ara ararauna) which lead either to the Colca Valley (150 km or Blue-grey Tanager (Thraupis episcopus) three hours) or to the city of Puno. Visitors are Capped Heron (Pilherodias pileatus) recommended to take the Puno route that passes Common Pooto (Nyctibus griseus) through an extensive queñual forest (Chiguata, Cuvier’s Toucan (Ramphastos cuvieri) 3.200 masl) and continues on toward the Great Great Black Hawk (Spizastur melanoleucus) Lake of Salinas. It is an ideal spot for viewing (Harpya harpyja) waterfowl, groups of vicuñas and, on occasion flocks Hoatzin (Ophistocomus hoazin) of guanacos (Lama guanicoe). The reserve features Horned Screamer (Anhima cornuta) vast high-Andean pasturelands, wetlands and Jabiru (Jabiru mycteria) flooded areas, as well as curious geological forma-

www.peru.org.pe [email protected] 12 Traveler’s Guide WILDLIFE WATCHINGTraveler’s IN PERU Guide WILDLIFE WATCHING IN PERU

tions resulting from erosion (the Maucarquipa and (Upucerthia albigula) Puruña stone-forests). The extraordinary Colca White-throated Sierra-Finch River Valley is located in the reserve’s eastern ar- (Phrigylus erythronotus) eas and borders the wide, high-Andean prairie. Colca and its colonial communities, spectacular Puno and Lake Titicaca terraces and landscapes, are ideal for an unforget- table visit. The birds in this valley are similar to The majority of the bird species that inhabit Lake the ones that inhabit the mountainous steppes in Titicaca can be found on almost all bodies of water other . Moreover, its cultivated land (lakes, pools and streams) that abound in the high and steep cliffs offer a place, like no other, from Andes. However, birdwatchers will be pressed to where one can watch some species of great inter- find a setting of more remarkable beauty than this est. This is the case of the majestic Andean Con- lake of truly oceanic proportions (8.380 km2). The dor, the largest of all birds capable of flight. It is endemic Titicaca Flightless Grebe, a species that easily spotled in the place called “Cruz del Cóndor”, only inhabits the Lake Titicaca basin can be eas- in the outskirts of the community of Cabanaconde. ily seen along the lakeshore all year round.

Andean Avocet (Recurviorostra andina) An area of archaeological interest and one of par- Andean Condor (Vultur gryphus) ticular appeal to birdwatchers, is the burial tower Andean Flamingo (Phoenicoparrus andinus) complex at Sillustani (20 km from Puno, on the Andean Goose (Chloephaga melanoptera) way to ). This spot, located on a hill over- Andean Pflicker (Colaptes rupicola) seeing the beautiful Umayo Lake, offers the possi- Black Siskin (Carduelis atrata) bility of observing most species of birds, Black-chested Buzzard-eagle as well as some singular mammals such as the (Geranoaetus melanoleucus) comic Wild Guinea pig (Cavia tschudii), a rodent Black-hooded Sierra-Finch (Phrygilus atriceps) with robotic movements that has made its home Creamy-breasted Canastero (Asthenes dorbignyi) among the archaeological remains in the area. Chilean Flamingo (Phoenicopterus ruber) D’Orbigny’s Chat-tyrant (Ochtoeca oenanthoides) The birds of Puno and Lake Titicaca Diuca Finch (Diuca speculifera) (3.800 masl) Giant Conebill (Oreomanes fraseri) Gray-breasted Seedsnipe Andean Coot (Fulica ardesiaca) (Thinocorus orbignyianus) Andean Duck (Oxyura ferruginea) James’ Flamingo (Phoenicoparrus jamesi) Andean Gull (Larus serranus) Ornate Tinamou ( ornata) Andean Swallow (Petrochelidon andecola) Puna Hawk (Buteo poecilochrous) Common Gallinule (Gallinula chloropus) Puna Plover (Charadrius alticola) Many-colored Rush Tyrant (Tachuris rubrigastra) ( pentlandii) Puna Ibis (Plegadis ridgwayi) Rufous-bellied Seedsnipe (Attagis gayi) Puna Teal (Anas puna) Tamarugo Conebill (Conirostrum tamarugensis) Titicaca Flightless Grebe White-throated Earthcreeper (Centropelma micropterum)•

www.peru.org.pe [email protected] 13 Traveler’s Guide WILDLIFE WATCHINGTraveler’s IN PERU Guide WILDLIFE WATCHING IN PERU

Primates

There are 32 different species of primates in Peru. Small primates These are divided into three large taxonomical (up to 35 cm long and weighing up to 1,2 kg ) families which group together the primates found Tin the New World: Callithricidae, which includes Tamarins tamarins and marmosets; Callimiconidae, which comprises one unique species (Goeldi’s ); Tamarins, at most the size of a squirrel, have large and the Cebidae, the largest of the three groups non-prehensile tails which hang vertically from which includes common squirrel monkeys, capu- below the . In the forest, they let out sharp chin monkeys, dusky titi monkeys, night-monkeys, whistles of alarm, and retreat by jumping among howler monkeys, woolly monkeys and spider mon- the underbrush, with their heads and trunk in keys, among others. typical upright position. Their social structure is highly unusual: they live in families led by a domi- Monkeys of the Old World ( Platyrrhini) can nant female and various male subordinates (poly- be distinguished from those of the New World (or- andry). Offspring, generally one or two per year, der Catarrhini) by a series of morphological differ- are cared for by the males, who carry them on ences which are the product of the adaptation of their backs throughout the day. They roam the the latter to the tropical environment in which dense vegetation area of the forest and areas con- they live. The most noticeable of these is the shape taining vines, where they find food in plentiful of their noses. The former (including those of man), supply as well as refuge from their many preda- feature elongated noses with large nostrils on each tors, which include eagles, falcons, felines and boas. side that point downwards while the latter, have wide, flat and often sloping noses. There are six species of tamarins (Saguinus spp.) in Peru: the Saddleback tamarin (Saguinus American monkeys are powerfully built. Their fuscicollis), Emperor tamarin (Saguinus faces, flattened and devoid of hair, have large eyes, imperator), Red-chested mustached tamarin small ears and short necks. Their hind legs are (Saguinus labiuatus), Black-chested mustached generally very long and have prehensile claws at tamarin (Saguinus mystax), Black-mantle tama- the ends. In most cases, American monkeys also rin (Saguinus nigricollis) and Golden-mantle tama- have long prehensile tails which act like a fifth rin (Saguinus tripartitus). limb. They are, for the most part, tree-dwelling, and come down from their tree habitats only to All of the species mentioned above measure some drink water or to cross open spaces. 22 cm in length and weigh around 350 grams. A characteristic of these monkeys is the distinctive Another characteristic of American monkeys is color-patterns on their faces, often with long mus- their ability to change color dramatically accord- taches, feathery crests or markings. They also have ing to their geographical location. As a result, a small claws rather than nails, which allow them species can change the color of its fur within a to grip tree trunks securely. These monkeys also wide range of shades, from black and ochre to yel- have large incisors used to eat fruit and capture low, depending on the latitude of its habitat. , their favorite food. Diurnal creatures, they gather in groups of up to a dozen and inhabit large Monkeys scatter the seeds from the fruits they eat areas of territory, generally between 30 and 100 over large areas, contributing to the regeneration ha, and often roam through the forest accompa- of the dominant lianas vines and trees of the Ama- nied by other species of tamarins, such as the zon forest, home to practically all of Peru’s mon- Emperor Tamarin. keys.

The only exceptions are the white-fronted capu- Goeldi’s monkey (Callimico Goeldi), or False-tama- chin monkey, which is also found in certain areas rin, deserves special mention. One of the most of the Andes’ western slopes in the northern de- unusual species in the country, it belongs to a partments of Piura and Tumbes, and the howler unique family known as Callimiconidae, and bears monkey of Tumbes, which is found only in the a strong resemblance to the true tamarin, but dif- northernmost tropical forests of the Pacific. fers from this animal in a number of internal char-

www.peru.org.pe [email protected] 14 Traveler’s Guide WILDLIFE WATCHINGTraveler’s IN PERU Guide WILDLIFE WATCHING IN PERU

acteristics of its anatomy. Black from head to toe, The five species of Dusky titi monkey in Peru are it has a long, thick coat of fur with long crests distributed among flooding forests or forests close that decorate the sides of its head like ears. A diur- to river banks and streams and are: Calliceibus nal and territorial creature, they generally move cupreus, Calliceibus oenanthe, Calliceibus close to the ground (at less than 5 meters above caligatus, Calliceibus torquatus and Calliceibus the ground), and show a preference for terra firme brunneus.Common squirrel monkeys. forests (forests not subject to flooding or those ly- ing some distance from rivers). Common squirrel monkeys

Marmosets Also known as Frailecillo, the Common squirrel monkey (Saimiri sciureus) is 25 cm long and weighs The Pygmy marmoset, also known as the pocket slightly under 1 kg. It has yellow fur on its back, monkey (Cebuella pygmaea), is the world’s small- white fur on its stomach and black markings on est . Measuring just 11 cm long and weigh- its face, as well as a black snout. Diurnal and gre- ing little over 100 grams, it is a diurnal creature garious creatures, they form large packs of up to with a well-marked territory, which it roams daily 70 monkeys. in search of food. It has a somewhat unusual tooth formation, with its lower jaw lined with small, Common squirrel monkeys are very active, spend- sharp teeth which allow it to tear the bark off trees ing most of the day roaming floodable forests in and vines to tap a highly specialized food: sap. The search of insects, and small fruits. Often Pygmy marmoset is found in forests subject to they join capuchin monkeys, developing an inter- flooding, in trees that are over 20 meters tall. esting symbiotic relationship: the squirrel mon- keys, smaller and more numerous, act as look- Night monkeys outs for the capuchin monkeys, alerting them to the presence of predators, while the capuchin, stun Night monkeys (Aotus spp.) are the only noctur- insects that serve as food for squirrel monkeys. nal monkeys in the Americas. Measuring between 24 and 35 cm long and weighing around 850 Medium-sized primates grams, their backs are ash-colored while their (up to 40 cm long and weighing up to 3,0 kg) stomachs are an orange-ochre color. They also have a white mask on their faces with a black stain Capuchin monkeys between their large eyes, while their tail is not prehensile. Living in treetops, they prefer areas of Capuchin monkeys, or capuchinos, are typical dense vegetation and vines. They form groups of medium-sized monkeys (the classic organ grinder’s two to five and eat fruit, insects and nectar. Mo- monkey that used to be seen in the cities). In Peru nogamous and sedentary, they live in small areas there are two species of capuchin monkey: the of territory which they rarely leave, and are not brown-fronted and the white-fronted capuchin. unsettled by the presence of humans. Both weigh between 1,5 and 3 kg and measure around 40 cm in length. Brown capuchin mon- Dusky titi monkeys keys (Cebus apella) are generally robust and very intelligent animals. Diurnal in nature, they roam Dusky titi monkeys (Calliceibus spp.) measure some their territory in groups of up to 20, eating almost 30 cm in length and weigh around 1,2 kg. They are anything they find –fruit, seeds, eggs, insects, rep- the only small monkeys that feed exclusively on tiles and even small vertebrates). They have strong soft leaves and shoots, especially bamboo shoots. teeth capable of cracking the tough palm nut. The Diurnal and tree-dwelling, these creatures are mo- White-fronted capuchin (Cebus albifrons) is lighter nogamous and form families of between two and and much more agile, active and elusive than the six monkeys. They are grayish-brown or reddish- brown-fronted capuchin. It eats fruit, seeds and brown in color, with rounded and compact bodies small arthropods, in particular wasps. and a long, wide tail which hangs below the animal when it is relaxed. To indicate their possession of a Saki monkeys particular strip of territory they emit an unusual call consisting of a mighty screech made in unison Saki monkeys, or Sakis, are medium- to large-sized by the male and dominant female of the group. Each monkeys, with long, spongy fur which makes them morning this call notifies the other monkeys in the seem larger and heavier than they actually are. forest of the whereabouts of the pack. They measure some 35 cm in length and weigh up

www.peru.org.pe [email protected] 15 Traveler’s Guide WILDLIFE WATCHINGTraveler’s IN PERU Guide WILDLIFE WATCHING IN PERU

to 2 kg, and are divided into two groups: Monk drink from the river banks and visit the clay cliffs Saki monkeys (belonging to the Pithecia) or collpas in search of salt and supplementary and White monkeys (of genus Cacajao). minerals.

Monk Saki monkeys (Pithecia aequatorialis, Two species of howler monkeys exist in Peru: the Pithecia irrorata and Pithecia monachus) have Reddish-orange common howler monkey (Alouatta large, furry, non-prehensile tails which hang like seniculus), typical of the Amazon jungle, and the a feather duster under their bodies. Diurnal and Black Tumbes howler monkey (Alouatta palliata), tree-dwelling, Monk Saki monkeys from groups of that lives in a tiny portion of the tropical forests between two and four and take large, sudden leaps located in the Tumbes Reserve. between branches, hence their common name of “flying monkeys”. Monk Saki monkeys live qui- Woolly monkeys etly among older and undisturbed areas of the for- est, through which they roam in search of fruit, Woolly monkeys (Lagothrix spp.) are large, thick- seeds and soft leaves. haired apes, with a powerful appearance. They are around 50 cm in height and can weigh up to 10 The White uakari monkey (Cacajao albus) varies kg. Diurnal and tree-dwelling, they are light brown significantly in appearance from its close relative and ash-colored and congregate in groups of up to the Monk Saki monkey. It has a long spongy, white- 20 individuals while they feed on fruit, seeds, nuts, yellow coat of fur and its face is bright red (hence leaves and insects. its common name). Diurnal and tree-dwelling, the White uakari monkey congregates in large groups Their size and large human presence in their habi- (sometimes of over 40 monkeys). Measuring 40 cm tat makes woolly monkeys the most heavily-hunted long and weighing up to 3 kg, it eats fruit, leaves, monkey in Peru. This and their low reproductive nectar and some types of insects, in particular rate (females reach sexual maturity at five or six caterpillars. It has large canine teeth capable of years) have caused the disappearance of this spe- cracking forest nutshells. The White uakari mon- cies from large areas, driving them to the edge of key is very active, moving around in the floodable extinction. forests more than any other species of monkey in the New World. Two species of woolly monkeys exist in Peru: the Common woolly monkey (Lagothrix lagotricha), Large primates native to the jungle fringe areas and distributed (up to 60 cm long and weighing up to 13 kg) along the entire country, and the Yellow-tailed woolly monkey (Lagothrix flavicauda), that lives Howler monkeys exclusively in the mountainous forests of the de- partments of Amazonas and San Martín. Known as howler monkeys, because of their habit of proclaiming the possession of their territory with Spider monkeys deafening roars, these monkeys (Alouatta spp.) are among the largest primates in the New World. The best known monkey of the Peruvian tropical They have a strong, prehensile tail and a bony jungle is, without a doubt, the spider monkey. Also cavity in their throat which is used as a resonat- known as maquisapa (from the Quechua maqui, ing cavity. Diurnal and tree-dwelling, they reach arm and sapa, large), it has adapted extremities 50 cm in length and weigh up to 11 kg. which allow it to move through the treetops where it lives. It reaches some 60 cm in height and weighs Due to the fact that it feeds exclusively on veg- up to 13 kg. This monkey’s strong prehensile tail etable matter (fruits, leaves and flowers) which is used as a fifth limb and it can often be seen are difficult to digest, the howler monkey leads a suspended from its tail. Diurnal and eminent tree- very sedentary existence. They end up spending dwellers, spider monkeys make up family groups most of the day in a single tree in groups of up to a of up to 20 individuals that feed on fruit, young dozen individuals. One of their most peculiar fea- shoots and leaves. tures is that when threatened, the entire group comes together in the treetops and launches a full- Like woolly monkeys, they are heavily hunted for scale aerial attack, showering faeces and urine on their meat and have disappeared from areas close the enemy. In the the come down to to human settlements. This situation has been

www.peru.org.pe [email protected] 16 Traveler’s Guide WILDLIFE WATCHINGTraveler’s IN PERU Guide WILDLIFE WATCHING IN PERU

further aggravated by their extremely low repro- spider monkey (Ateles paniscus), common in the ductive rate (females attain sexual maturity at central jungle and in the south of Peru, and the four or five years and have offspring every three to Long-haired spider monkey (Ateles belzebuth), four years). whose geographic range is restricted to the extreme north of the (departments of Two species of spider monkey live in Peru: the Black Amazonas and Loreto).

Oso de anteojos, Cuzco Heinz Plenge / PromPerú

www.peru.org.pe [email protected] 17 Traveler’s Guide WILDLIFE WATCHINGTraveler’s IN PERU Guide WILDLIFE WATCHING IN PERU

Marine Mammals

There are a total of 33 species of marine mam- A bit further south (480 km from Lima via the mals in Peru ranging from the tiniest salt-water Pan-American Highway) is Punta San Juan, a marine otters or chingungos, that inhabit inac- Reserve established to protect the nesting grounds Tcessible beaches to the large whales and sperm- of guano birds, Humboldt penguins and a large whales that roam the open sea. Scientists group colony of sea lions. them into nine taxonomic families, with the most important being the otariidae and the delphinus, Cetaceans are well represented in Peruvian wa- that group the sea lions and southern fur seals ters. Observing them, however, is rather difficult and the dolphins, respectively. since there is a lack of tourist infrastructure for this end. Several species of dolphins, such as the Bottlenose Dolphin and the Short-Beaked Common Undoubtedly the most widely-seen mammals on Dolphin, as well as Porpoise, are habitual residents the Peruvian coast, are the sea lions. Two differ- of the relatively shallow coastal waters. ent species share the coast bathed by the cold Pe- ruvian ocean current: the large South American The best way to observe these creatures is to rent Sea Lion (Otaria byronia) weighing up to 300 kg, a boat in the larger coves or ports and then to re- which prefers to gather on sandy beaches, and the quest information on the best spots and times for smaller South American Fur Seal (Arctocephalus viewing. In Peru, all cetacean species are protected australis), which tends to group on outcrops of in- by law. The capture, consumption or sale of these accessible rocks along the coast. Both species re- animals or any product derived thereof, is strictly produce between November and March, ideal prohibited months for observation. Main species The best spots for finding them is along the south- Blue Whale (Balaenoptera musculus) ern coast: Paracas (250 km from Lima) features Lesser-Beaked Whale major breeding grounds on the Ballestas Islands (Mesoplodon peruvianus) (a one-and-a-half hour boat-ride from the El Chaco Southern Right Whale (Eubalaena australis) dock or from the Hotel Paracas), Punta Arquillo Humpback Whale (Megaptera novangliae) (15 minutes on a rough-grade road that runs Short-Finned Pilot Whale through the peninsula) and Morro Quemado (a (Globicephala macrorhynchus) three-hour drive in an all-terrain vehicle) where Sperm Whale (Physeter catodon) possibly the largest number of sea lions and south- Short-Beaked Common Dolphin ern fur seals in the country congregate. (Delphinus delphis) Risso’s Dolphin (Grampus griseus) Bottlenose Dolphin (Tursiops truncatus) The coastal beaches of the Paracas National Re- Dusky Dolphin (Lagenorhynchus obscurus) serve are also the best spots for viewing the elu- Marine Otter (Lutra felina) sive chingungo or marine otter, a marmot that Porpoise (Phocoena spinipinnis) inhabits the rarely-visited rocks and beaches of South American Sea Lion (Otaria byronia) the central and southern Peruvian coast. The South American Fur Seal beaches of Mendieta and La Catedral have the (Arctocephalus australis) greatest number of recorded . Orca (Orcinus orca)

www.peru.org.pe [email protected] 18 Traveler’s Guide WILDLIFE WATCHINGTraveler’s IN PERU Guide WILDLIFE WATCHING IN PERU

Butterflies

For those in the know, to talk about butterflies is of which 3.700 have been registered. The scale of to talk about Peru. One of every five species of this figure can be appreciated when making com- butterflies in the world is found here. However, parisons of total number of species with other parts Fmore than just another world record of bio-diver- of the world: Australia (396), Europe (441) and sity, this constitutes one more reason to encour- North America (679). age nature lovers to take a journey through the Peruvian forests. The narrow band of coastal desert with its agri- cultural valleys, as well as the Andean highlands Today, butterflies make up the best-known group at more than 5.000 masl have relatively few but of land invertebrates and much of this knowledge very interesting species that have adapted to their is attributable to scientists working in the remote rigorous environment. Tropical forests are the en- jungles of Peru. In recent years, theories stating vironments that by far are home to the greatest that the natural diversity of the Amazon region variety of butterflies. In the high-jungle, as well increases in relation to its proximity to the Andes as in the Amazon lowlands, there are areas where have been proven true by overwhelming statistics. diversity is such that that a nature lover could be kept busy for weeks on end. For example, the extraordinary number of species (1.300) were recorded in the community of Pakitza, These places range from the northeastern jungles in the Manu National Park, in southeast Peru and (Tarapoto and ), to the southern jungles only 235 km away, in a small hostel on the (Tambopata and Manu), passing through the Tambopata river, 1.260 species were recorded. Chanchamayo Valley and the area surrounding What is amazing about these findings is that only Tingo María, famous for its importance as part of 60% of the entries of both places overlapped! Re- the great butterfly collections made by botanists searchers estimate that the total diversity of but- at the turn of the century. terflies in the country must be over 4.200 species,

Butterfly in Tambopata, Madre de Dios Aníbal Solimano / PromPerú

www.peru.org.pe [email protected] 19 Traveler’s Guide WILDLIFE WATCHINGTraveler’s IN PERU Guide WILDLIFE WATCHING IN PERU

Areas of interest cave, and can be reached by a dirt road leading to La Divisoria (en route to Pucallpa). The city of Tumbes Pucallpa receives regular commercial flights from The Tumbes Reserve, located 50 km east of the Lima. city on a dirt road. Tumbes (1.267 km north of Lima) receives regular commercial flights from Pasco Lima. All-terrain vehicle required. Rough-graded road inter-connect the cities of Oxapampa, Huancabamba and Pozuzo. Lowlands Loreto formed by the Pozuzo and Palcazu river basins. Tourist lodges on the outskirts of (Napo, All-terrain vehicle required. Nanay and Itaya Rivers). This city has an inter- national airport and regular commercial flights. Junín Paved highway inter-connects San Ramón-La Amazonas Merced-Satipo. Tropical valleys producing differ- Dirt roads inter-connect the cities of Chachapoyas ent varieties of fruit as well as coffee in the basins - Molinopampa - Rodríguez de Mendoza and of the Chanchamayo and Perené rivers, respec- Chachapoyas - Leimebamba and Kuélap. tively. Chachapoyas receives regular commercial flights from Lima. All-terrain vehicle required. Cusco Historic Sanctuary of Machu Picchu. Dirt roads, San Martín Cusco-Paucartambo-Valle de Kosñipata and Cusco- Paved highway to Pomacochas-Rioja-Moyobamba Quincemil. All-terrain vehicle required. and a dirt road to Tarapoto and cities (all-terrain vehicle is recommended for this final Madre de Dios stage of the route.) Tarapoto receives regular com- Tourist lodges on the Tambopata, Alto Madre de mercial flights from Lima. Dios, Madre de Dios and Manu Rivers. The city of Puerto Maldonado receives regular commercial Huánuco flights from Lima and Cusco. Tingo María National Park (outside the city) is home to the Cueva de las Lechuzas, or the owl

www.peru.org.pe [email protected] 20 Traveler’s Guide WILDLIFE WATCHINGTraveler’s IN PERU Guide WILDLIFE WATCHING IN PERU

Wild Flowers

Peru is home to an enormous variety of climates while the ceibo and guayacán can also be found in and eco-systems because of its geographic location the Equatorial dry forests. and the presence of the Andes, which gives way to Pcountless valleys –at varying altitudes and lati- Others though are endemic to this peculiar envi- tudes– that descend to either the coast or the ronment and are not found in any other place in jungle. This climatic variety has forced wildlife to the country. This is the case for the many species adapt to a series of ecosystems by developing sur- of bromeliads, tillandsias such as spanish moss vival strategies. and the small and delicate flowers that belong to several species of lianas and shade-dwelling plants Plants are, without a doubt, the best example of such as the and the amaranthaceae. this exceptional effort to adapt, colonizing practi- cally all the environs possible –from the bottom of Access to these forests is via a dirt road heading the sea and frozen lakes to the arid deserts or the east from the city of Tumbes along the road that Andean highlands. Plants have become the key leads to the communities of Pampas de Hospital players in the survival of the rest of the creatures and El Caucho. An all-terrain vehicle is recom- inhabiting the natural world. mended, as is contacting a local guide and taking along plenty of food and water. The species of Peruvian flora are a source of amaze- ment because of the diversity of species and fami- Species: Abutilón (Abutilon reflexum), Anturio (An- lies, their tiny or gigantic proportions, colors, scents thurium scandens), Bromelia (Aechmia sp.), and flavors they give off, shapes they take while Caliandra (Caliandra tumbeziana), Caña-caña they grow and finally because most of them are (Costus sp.), Espino de árbol (Epiphylum unique in the world. phyllanthus), Fuego del bosque (Malvaviscus arboreus), Granadilla silvestre (Passiflora Peruvian geography offers a majestic setting for punctata), Lantana (Lantana glutinosa), Palo de lovers of wildflowers, since there is always a seem- yuca (Carica parviflora), Pashaco (Phitecelobium ingly unlimited variety of flowers, regardless of exelsum) and Rojo-rojo (Ludwigia peruviana). time of year or location: at sea-level or 5.000 meters above it, in the tropical jungle or in the Equatorial The dry forest dry forests. (250 – 600 masl)

The forests of Tumbes Dry forests are a typical natural formation occur- (650 – 900 masl) ring on the northern coast where two species have adapted to the harsh desert conditions: carob and There is a small area in Peru filled with huge trees ceibo. The presence of these trees is common in and luxuriant forests, where jaguars, cocodriles the departments of Tumbes, Piura and and howling monkeys abide. What is curious about Lambayeque, and these are vital to the inhabit- this spot is that it is located very close to the ocean. ants’ survival. It is the Tropical Forest of the Pacific, a special spot wedged right in the heart of the department The climate in this region is warm and dry, with of Tumbes. during the summer that allow for ample and singular vegetation to develop. The dry forest The area is very damp and has a distinct rainy covers an area starting from the seashore and season between December and March, and a pro- reaching inland 100 to 150 km. The land is flat longed dry season lasting the rest of the year. This and prairie-like, with small hills in the coastal area part of the Peruvian coast receives more rainfall as well as small mountain ranges further inland, than any other. This is why the abundant vegeta- such as the Cerros de Amotape. tion is always green. Many of the plants inhabit- ing this forest have their origins in other regions. The vegetation is mostly deciduous; in other words, For example, the cedar tree, the strangler-fig and it loses its leaves during the prolonged dry period. the marmalade tree, come from the Amazon jungles The flowers, on the contrary, stand out against

www.peru.org.pe [email protected] 21 Traveler’s Guide WILDLIFE WATCHINGTraveler’s IN PERU Guide WILDLIFE WATCHING IN PERU

the landscape and are like bright signs attracting Species: Achupaya ( angusta), Cantuta hungry and other flower piercers. ( buxifolia), Contrahierba (Perezia pinnatifidia), Curicasha (Matucana The dry forest is easily accessed via many of the yunganucensis), Chekchi (Berberis lutea), rough-grade roads that branch off the North Pan- Chinchircuma (Mutisia acuminata), Chocho American highway and head east. The areas of (Lupinus mutabilis), Lleqllish qora (Werneria , Máncora and Zorritos are of special in- nubigena), Ñuqchu (Salvia oppositifolora), Ortiga terest. macho (Loasa grandiflora), Porporo (Passiflora trifoliata), Puya Raimondi (Puya raimondii), Species: Azul (Ipomoea purpurea), Begonia (Bego- Retama, qarwash (Spartium junceum), Shillcu nia pleiopetala), Borrachera (Ipomoea carnea), (Bidens alticola), Wamanpinta (Chuquiraga Cardenal (Euphorbia cotinifolia), Granadilla spinosa) and Yareta (Azorella yareta). silvestre (Passiflora tenella), Guayacán (Tabebuia chrysantha), Heliotropo (Heliotropium ferreyrae), The foothills Overo (Leucaena trichodes), Palo santo (Bursera (300 – 450 masl) graveolens), Porotillo (Erythrina velutina), Pretino (Bombax discolor) and Zapallito de monte (Cucumis If one had to choose the most singular environ- dipsaeus). ments in Peru, the coastal highland range would undoubtedly lie within that select group. The foot- The Andes hills, located in the middle of an apparently lonely, (1.000 – 3.500 masl) coastal desert, are one of nature’s most unique for- mations. These foothills that rest on sand and rock The Andes can be divided into two large altitude face west and owe their existence to the excess and climate areas: one low area with a benign cli- humidity that comes from the masses of cold air mate, consisting of the fertile inter-Andean val- pushed up against the continent by the trade leys that sit at 1.000 to 2.500 masl, and another winds, depositing moisture on the hills facing the area, known as the puna, at an altitude of over sea, which condenses and gives rise to, albeit sea- 3.500 masl. It is in the latter area, with its usu- sonal and fleeting, vital and beautiful vegetation. ally hostile weather where the altitude, oxygen and cold temperature limit the existence of many forms The foothills tour a bright shade of green each year of life, that the small Andean flowers begin to re- during the winter and the best time for a visit is veal their beauty and coloring. The area between between August and October. The most accessible 2.500 and 3.500 masl is one of transition where, foothills and perhaps the best preserved ones along for topographical and climatic reasons, both types the Peruvian coast, are found in the Lachay Na- of flowers –valley and puna– can be found. tional Reserve located 105 km north of Lima. Ac- cess is via the Pan-American Highway and along It is impossible to imagine the Andes without its a 3-km stretch of rough-grade road leading to the wildflowers that range from the minute flower of heart of the reserve. Required gear includes food the yareta to the gigantic pods of the puya Raimondi and water as well as a camera. and all the delicate passion flowers to colorful chochos and the imperceptible contrahierbas or the Species: Amancae (Hymenocallis amancaes), poison ivy in between. Azucena del Inca (Alstroemeria pelegrina), Heliotropo (Heliotropium peruvianum), Lomas Visitors to the Andean highlands will be awed by Orchid (Chloraea undulata), Ortiga (Loasa incana), the color and design of its flowers, which in gen- Papita de San Juan (Begonia geraniifolia), Tabaco eral are very different from the ones city dwellers silvestre (Nicotiana tabacum), Valeriana (Valeriana are used to seeing. Given tough environment and robusta) and Zapatito amarillo (Calceolaria sp.). that flowers represent a plant’s maximum effort to attract the attention of the few pollenating The cloud forests agents in order to be able to produce seeds and (2.000 – 3.000 masl) propagate, competition between plants is vicious. The beneficiaries of this process are the observers Cloud forests are one of the most spectacular as who have hundreds of flowers, each more beauti- well as most threatened environments in Peru and ful than the next, at their entire disposition. run along a high, narrow band of the eastern Andes at 2.000 to 3.000 masl.

www.peru.org.pe [email protected] 22 Traveler’s Guide WILDLIFE WATCHINGTraveler’s IN PERU Guide WILDLIFE WATCHING IN PERU

With humidity at close to 100% and almost 5.000 The tropical forest mm of yearly rainfall, vegetation reaches propor- (90 – 80 masl) tions that are almost impossible to imagine. Each available branch or rock is covered in a thick Despite its renowned fame for having the most mantle of moss and abounds with hundreds of or- profuse vegetation on the planet, flowers in the chids, bromeliads and other epiphitic plants. Ferns tropical forest are less abundant than one would grow to the size of trees and the ever-shiny green expect. leaves fight over every millimeter of space in search of the scarce sunlight. The explanation for this is the enormous diversity of its forests which impedes the presence of large The cloud forests are home to some of the most concentrations of plants of the same species in beautiful and rare flowers in the world such as small areas and in the fierce competition for sur- bomareas and the gigantic begonias. Depending vival in an environment teeming with all sorts of upon the time of year, visiting nature lovers will living creatures. For this same reason flowers in always find new and fascinating flowers hiding the tropical forest have had to adapt to announce between the vegetation. Even today, on the eve of their presence to the forest and its creatures: a new century, investigators are continually dis- spreading potent scents into the air, creating strik- covering more and more new species in these en- ing shapes and colors worthy of even the most cre- chanted forests. ative painter. The flowers of the tropical forest stand out like jewels in the middle of the ever-present Many areas in the country provide relatively easy green thicket. access to the cloud-forests. Highways leading to the Chanchamayo Valley (Tarma-San Ramón sec- One of the best examples that illustrates this situ- tor); Bagua-Rioja (Pardo de Miguel mountain pass); ation is that of the . These plants, with Cusco-Atalaya (Kosñipata Valley) and more than 200 different varieties, have had to cre- Ollantaytambo-Quillabamba (Málaga mountain ate singular shapes and colors in order to attract pass) are only a few of the more spectacular high- different pollenating agents to disseminate their way stretches that pass through this natural for- genetic characteristics (the ultimate objective of mation. All-terrain vehicles and warm clothing, every flower). This is why one can find heliconias especially at night, are recommended since the only a few millimeters long next to relatives whose weather is often unpredictable. pods reach over a meter in length. Aside from their evolutionary characteristics, the flowers of the Species: Giant Begonia (Begonia sp.), Bijagua tropical forest will always charm visitors. (Calathea insignis), Bromelia (Aechmia sp.), Chakpá, saltaperico ( grandiflora), Llicsa Species: Achiote (Bixa orellana), Amarillo zapatito, potocshu (Calceolaria sp.), Pico de loro (Centrolobium sp.), Bijao ( latispatha), (Mucuna rostrata), Sacha pashullo (Erythrina sp.), Bobinsana (Caliandra sp.), Jengibre (Costus sp.), Sullun sullu (Bomarea dulcis) and Toro urco (Pani- Gramalote (Eichornia azurea), Granadilla cum pilosum). silvestre (Passiflora vitifolia), Labios ardientes ( sp.), Palo balsa (Ochroma pyramidale), Platanillo (), San Miguel (Blakea gracilis) and Victoria real (Victoria regia).

www.peru.org.pe [email protected] 23 Traveler’s Guide WILDLIFE WATCHINGTraveler’s IN PERU Guide WILDLIFE WATCHING IN PERU

Orchids

Orchids make up the planet’s largest group of flow- the Equatorial dry forest, an ecosystem marked ering plants. They are representative of a very sin- by two distinct seasons: the rains, between De- gular evolutionary line that, –over millions of cember and March and a prolonged dry season Oyears– has managed to produce 20.000 to 30.000 throughout the rest of the year. These conditions, different species, with the forests of Malaysia and along with the geographic latitude (close to the blessed with the greatest diversity Equator), sparked the existence of large forests with of this family. Their variety of shapes, sizes and species adapted to arid deserts as well as to the structures is unparalleled in the plant kingdom ephemeral abundance of the . and range from plants of less than a millimeter in size –including flowers– to those of more than seven Dense thickets and patches of native trees such as meters in height. There are diminutive shrub- ceibo, guayacanes and porotillos hold some of the shaped orchids and other vine-like plants that grow most attractive and interesting types of orchids to more than 30 meters in length.Their curious for orchid-lovers. Such is the case of Cattleya adaptations to their environment has allowed or- maxima, with its huge violet colored flowers, chids to establish complex relationships with other known locally as the “orquídea de los bailes”, or organisms, favoring their existence in places once the dance orchid. This orchid is in heavy demand presumed to be too hostile to allow them to develop as it is used for decorative purposes. (arid deserts or the high-Andean frozen tundra). Extracting nutrients from an environment filled Entering the dry forests is relatively simple: a se- with competitors (tropical jungles) is without a ries of rough dirt roads extend in an easterly di- doubt a key factor, in their survival. rection (Quebrada Fernández, in Máncora, or Quebrada Bocapán, in Zorritos) from the cities of Orchids developed certain morphological modifi- Piura and Tumbes (981 and 1.267 km north of cations to eliminate competition and increase their Lima, respectively). All-terrain vehicles are rec- nutrient gathering capacity, such as tree roots that ommended, as is hiring a guide and taking along are capable of attaching themselves to the high plenty of food and water. branches or rocks, thus rendering them indepen- dent of the rare fertile soil; or developing a rela- There is also a small habitat that can be accessed tionship with ants to take advantage of their waste by a dirt road, usually in poor condition, located a and thereby benefit from the protection these in- few kilometers from the city of Tumbes. This is sects offer against abundant predators. the tropical forest of the Pacific, protected under the name of the Tumbes Reserved Zone. Its spectrum of pollenating agents, with which it has an elaborate relationship attraction-benefit, The site is home to one of the last tropical forests includes –in decreasing order of importance– bees, that exists on the western side of the Andes and is flies, moths, butterflies, wasps, birds and refuge to an abundant and diverse fauna and flora, as links for the reproduction and dissemination of and of course, to orchids. the different species. Species: Aspasia sp., Catasetum macroglossum, It is estimated that, in Peru, the family Cattleya maxima, Cycnoches lehmannii, has around 3.000 species, most of Cyrtochilum macranthum, Encyclia fragans, which grow in the tropical forests on the eastern Lockhartia schunkei, Lycaste mezae, Oncidium slopes of the Andes: the mountain fringes and the onustum, Ornithocephalus sp., Pteroglossa sp., cloud-forests (600 to 3.300 masl). It is here, among Telipogon sp. and Trichocentrum tigrinum. the luxuriant growth resulting from almost 5.000 mm of annual rainfall, that the orchids multiply Amazonas and San Martín and form actual gardens. (750 – 2.400 masl)

Tumbes and Piura The department of Amazonas, located on the ex- (7 – 2.000 masl) treme northern tip of the country on the eastern slopes of the Andes, is home to large mountain- The northwestern corner of Peru is the habitat of forests that are home to a series of highly beauti-

www.peru.org.pe [email protected] 24 Traveler’s Guide WILDLIFE WATCHINGTraveler’s IN PERU Guide WILDLIFE WATCHING IN PERU

ful orchids. Especially abundant are the orchids Above all, Huánuco is the gateway to the tropical from the genus Masdevalia, famous for its colors jungle. The paved highway that leads to Tingo and singular . Generally, Amazonas can be María, goes through a small mountain pass known reached from the city of Cajamarca, located some as Paso de Carpish (2.700 masl). This spot is ideal 800 km northeast of Lima. Access is via a paved for viewing orchids: cloud forests and dense veg- highway, a 50-minute flight with a commercial etation hide hundreds of plants –especially the carrier and then on dirt roads to the communities abundant Epidendrum– that grows on tree of Jaén, San Ignacio and Namballe. All-terrain branches, between rocks and on the ground moss. vehicles are recommended as is hiring a guide. Once in Tingo María, a visit to the National Park of the same name is a must, as is the area of the The Mayo River valley, in the department of San Owl Cave, a habitat for many colored and beauti- Martín, is known by orchid-lovers as Tierra de las ful species of orchids. Orquídeas or Land of the Orchids. Local inhabit- ants of the area make this fact well-known since Species: Ackermania spp., Catasetum spp., they are aware of the potential development of eco- Cycnoches pentadactylon, Elleanthus spp., Epiden- tourism around these flowers. The swallow orchid, drum spp., Gongora spp., Lycaste jarae, Cattleya rex, is particularly abundant, and is con- Masdevallia lamprotyria, Maxillaria setigera and sidered to be a symbol of the regional flora. The Stanhopea haseloviana. areas of greater interest are accessible via the re- cently-paved highway starting at Bagua, passing Cordillera Blanca Mountain Range through the community of Pedro Ruiz and head- (3.450 masl) ing up to the Pardo de Miguel mountain pass (2.400 masl). Afterwards, the road descends into luxuri- Orchids are not the exclusive legacy of tropical for- ant cloud-forests inhabited by orchids and toward ests. Travelers will find this out by visiting the the jungle communities of Rioja and Moyobamba. Callejón de Huaylas and the Cordillera Blanca Moun- Wildlife lovers should walk through the renowned tain Range, located some 410 km northeast of Lima Morro Calzada, a limestone massif rising from the on a paved highway. A series of dirt roads head out ground just outside of Moyobamba. For those wish- from the city of Huaraz, capital of the department ing to go further, it is possible to continue on via a of Ancash and commercial and tourist hub of the partially-paved road or by a daily 70-minute flight, region, up to the Cordillera Blanca. This mountain toward Tarapoto and the waterfall region. This is range, located east of the Santa River valley is the an area also covered by dense mountain forests highest tropical mountain range, and lies almost where orchids are abundant as well as multicol- entirely within the limits of Huascarán National ored birds. Park. One of the most well-traveled roads by visi- tors is the one starting out from the community of Species: Anguloa spp., Brassia spp., Brassia villosa, Yungay (50 km north of Huaraz) and winding up to Cattleya luteola, Cattleya rex, Coryanthes spp., the narrow glacial valley of Llanganuco, with its Lycaste spp., Masdevalia amabilis, Masdevalia two emerald colored lakes and its native queñual constricta, Masdevalia decumana, Masdevalia (Polylepis spp.) forests. replicata, Phragmipedium besseae, Phragmipedium boisserianum, Phragmipedium Once at the lakes, take the bridle path known as wallisii and Stenia wendieae. “Sendero de María Josefa”, down to the Park’s con- trol booth. Besides finding a beautiful scenic land- Huánuco and Tingo María scape, there are also several interesting species of (1.894 – 2.700 masl) orchids, of which ‘wakanku’ (Masdevalia amabilis) is the most striking. Huánuco has been called the “traveler’s oasis” since ancient times. Because of its geographic lo- Species: Aa spp., Altenstenia spp., Epidendrum cation, in a covered and fertile valley with a tem- spp., Masdevalia amabilis, Stelis spp. and perate climate, this city seems like an oasis to Trichocero spp. weary travelers who reach it after a long trip across Junín’s high-Andean puna. Huánuco is reached Chanchamayo Valley by a road branching off the Central Highway which (650 masl) starts in Lima and then splits, 175 km afterwards, at 3.800 masl, at La Oroya (take the detour to The Chanchamayo Valley, located some 350 km ). from Lima (seven hours on a paved highway, tak-

www.peru.org.pe [email protected] 25 Traveler’s Guide WILDLIFE WATCHINGTraveler’s IN PERU Guide WILDLIFE WATCHING IN PERU

ing the Central Highway and then heading toward charms of the country’s spectacular region, is to Tarma, in La Oroya), a large tropical valley of or- hike the Inca Trail that interconnects the com- ange groves and fruit orchards, deserves to be called munity of Qorihuayrachina (outside of the “Valley of the Orchids”. Ollantaytambo) with the Inca citadel of Machu Picchu. This trek takes about three to four days The narrow ravines starting at the cities of San and passes through a wide range of altitudes and Ramón and la Merced are ideal observation cir- ecosystems. There are many companies based in cuits for orchid-buffs. All-terrain vehicles are rec- Cusco that can facilitate the logistic aspects of the ommended, as is hiring a guide. Of special trip for travelers. interest is the road that leads toward the commu- nities of Pampa Hermosa and Monobamba, out- Species: Aa spp., Allenstenia fimbriata, Epiden- side of San Ramón. drum secundum, Lycaste spp., Masdevalia vetchiana, Maxillaria spp., Obralia spp., Odonto- Chanchamayo offers the possibility of finding an glossum spp., Oncidium spp. and Sobralia enormous diversity of species, with the most in- dichotoma teresting one being the endemic royal butterfly (Psychopsis sanderae) and the beautiful David’s Manu and Tambopata star (Huntleya vargasii). (250 – 350 masl)

Species: Cycnoches coperii, Elleanthus koehleri, The tropical jungles of Manu and Tambopata, lo- Epidendrum coinnabarinum, Huntleya vargasii, cated in southeastern Peru, are nature’s paradise Lycaste spp., Masdevalia ayabacana, Mormodes in the Americas and curiously lack a great num- revolutum, Oncidium spp., Phragmipedium ber of orchids, due mainly to lowland living condi- reticulatum, Psychopsis sanderae, Rodriguezia tions. Nevertheless, orchid fans will find some in- secunda, Stigmatostalix sp. and Trichopilia teresting species in these jungles such as those fragrans. from the genus Catasetum and Oncidium.

Machu Picchu Manu is accessible via commercial flights in light (1.600 – 2.000 masl) aircraft (30 minutes from Cusco) or via highway (12 hours through Paucartambo) with the last leg The most important tourist destination in Peru is of the trip being a four-hour motorboat ride. Hir- more than just a magnet for archaeology fans. Al- ing the services of a Cusco based tourist operator, though few persons are aware of it, Machu Picchu authorized to operate in the area, is recommended. is a natural sanctuary that protects territories that To visit the jungles of Tambopata one starts from range from the high-Andean plains (at more than the city of Puerto Maldonado (regular commercial 4.000 masl) to the cloud forests that surround this flights) and motors two or three hours up the famous site. It is precisely these forests that are Tambopata river. There are hostels and lodges in home to a large number of plant and animal spe- Tambopata that provide complete packages that cies and to more than 200 varieties of orchids. can be arranged for from their offices in Cusco or Among those that stand out are the renowned Lima. wakanki, Quechua for “you-will-cry” (Masdevalia vetchiana) and wiñaywayna, “forever young” (Epi- Species: Catasetum semicirculatum, Cochleantes dendrum secundum). The best way to get to know amazonica, Chauvardia spp., Masdevalia setacea the orchids and at the same time admire the many Mormodes spp., Oncidium spp., Pleurothalis spp. and Psychopsis spp.

www.peru.org.pe [email protected] 26 Traveler’s Guide WILDLIFE WATCHINGTraveler’s IN PERU Guide WILDLIFE WATCHING IN PERU

RECOMMENDATIONS parable to all of Spain, France and Italy combined). Peru ranks as one of the 20 largest countries on Always inform the local authorities before enter- the planet. Owing to its location, its coasts have ing Protected Areas. always been a vital link for seafaring vessels and for trade in the sub-continental region. Addition- Rent an appropriate vehicle or hire the services of ally, Peru claims sovereignty over 200 nautical a driver to reach the nature viewing areas. Local miles and has territorial rights over 60 million guides are ideal and in this case local children tend hectares in the Antarctic. to be “experts” in detecting all types of wildlife. Coast Always carry pencil and notebook as well as maps, field-guides and binoculars. Peru’s extensive and arid desert coast is the result of the cold Humboldt ocean current and the pres- After each entry or observation, record the date, ence of the Andes to the East. There is almost never weather and other interesting data of the commu- any rainfall in the central and southern regions of nity you are in. Don’t forget to ask the local inhab- the Peruvian coast. Which has two distinct sea- itants about the names they give the species and sons: winter between April and October and the for the best spots for observing wildlife. They will summer between November and March. During provide you with the most accurate information. the winter a dense layer of cloud covers the sky and there are frequent light showers and drizzle. Take detailed notes of the morphological charac- Although it seems much colder because of the high teristics (color, size, shape) of all species you can- humidity, the temperature rarely falls below 12° not identify and include data on its behavior and C. During the summer on the other hand, the sun habitat. These will be very useful for later identifi- beats down fiercely and temperatures often rise to cation. 30° C. The northern region of the coast does not endure the effect of the cold ocean current which Feathers, nests and even excrement of certain birds in effect yields almost 300 days of sunshine and are useful keys for identifying the species from a warm temperatures all year (up to 35° C in the certain place. Become a detective. summer).

Be an active participant in conservation efforts of Rainy season in this region is from November to Peruvian flora and fauna and inform the proper March which are considerably increased due to authorities (INRENA) in the event of any damage The El Niño weather phenomenon. to habitats. The Andes Do not cut or pull out live plants. Remember, un- der government regulations, any extraction, sale The Andes has two very well-defined seasons: a dry and export of wild orchids is punishable by law. season, between April and October, characterized by sunny days, very cold nights (often freezing) Do not light fires in the forest. and the absence of (ideal for touring); and the wet season (improperly called “winter”), between Don’t pollute, take your waste with you. November and March when rainfall is heavy (gen- erally over 1.000 mm). A typical characteristic of Do not tamper with path signs or signposts. this region is the marked variation in tempera- ture throughout the day. Normal daily tempera- Visit the specimen collections in the museums of tures range from highs of 24° C at mid-day and natural history to get to know the local species lows of -3° C at day-break. The climate in the high- better and to clear up any doubts you may have on lands is dry, pleasant and ideal for growing a great your entries. variety of crops.

LOCATION AND WEATHER Jungle

The Pacific Ocean borders the Peruvian coast, The jungle can be divided into the high-jungle or which is located in the central region of South mountain fringe (over 700 masl) and lower jungle America. Its population is 24 million inhabitants (less than 700 masl). The climate in the high jungle while its surface area covers 1.285.215 km2 (com- is subtropical and temperate, with plenty of rain,

www.peru.org.pe [email protected] 27 Traveler’s Guide WILDLIFE WATCHINGTraveler’s IN PERU Guide WILDLIFE WATCHING IN PERU

(around 3.000 mm per year) between November the morning sun in the Peruvian Andes shines and March and sunny days between April and bright, the wind is cool, this being equivalent to October. Nights are always cool. The lower jungle, spring-like weather. After mid-day, the heat on the other hand, has two distinct seasons, that sends everyone running for the shade, like in are marked in direct relation directly to their dis- the summer time. Afternoon sees the culmina- tance from the Equator. The dry season, between tion of the formation of small cumulus clouds April and October (ideal for tourism), features that have been taking shape all morning and sunny days and high temperatures that usually the weather feels like autumn. When the sun top 35° C. finally sets, which happens quite fast in the trop- ics, it gets very cold, like winter time. This sin- River water levels during these months drop and gular multiplicity of climatic conditions is caused roads are easily traveled. The rainy season, be- by the location of this extensive mountain range tween November and March is characterized by that in Peru runs from north to south and that frequent downpours (at least once a day) and by separates the warm and humid winds of the east- tough road conditions. Humidity in the jungle is ern Amazon from the masses of cold air gener- very high throughout the year. The southern re- ated in the Pacific Ocean. gion also sees the occurrence of “friajes” or “surazos”: cold fronts that drift up from the ex- The tropical nature of the Peruvian Andes –be- treme southern tip of the continent and that ap- cause of their latitudinal location on the continent– pear from May through August. Temperature dur- creates two distinct seasons throughout the year: ing these cold snaps tends to fall to 8-12° C. dry and rainy, which succeed each other, with sud- den changes from one to the other, slightly buff- Mountain Climate ered only by tenuous middle periods.

There is a saying about the tropical mountain Because Peru is situated in the southern hemi- ranges that claims “there are no yearly seasons sphere, it is winter during the European and North but rather days that contain all four”. So, while American summer.

www.peru.org.pe [email protected] 28 Traveler’s Guide WILDLIFE WATCHINGTraveler’s IN PERU Guide WILDLIFE WATCHING IN PERU

© PromPerú All or part of this document and the information contained therein may be reproduced, on condition that the source be quoted.

PromPerú Edificio Mitinci, piso 13, Calle Uno Oeste s/n Urb. Córpac, Lima 27

Tel: (511) 224-3118 / 224-3125 Fax: (511) 224-3323 E-mail: [email protected] www.peru.org.pe

www.peru.org.pe [email protected] 29