THE ANDEAN NORTHWEST T E N a L 243 P Y L E N O L

THE ANDEAN NORTHWEST t e n a l 243 P y l e n o L

© Salta Tafí del Valle Humahuaca Quebrada de Valles Calchaquíes Chilecito AREA : 559,864 SQ KM 559,864 SQ KM : AREA  Quebrada Quebrada de Humahuaca ( p252 ) uplifting mountain excursions Salta ( p260 ) Calchaquíes Valles ( p272 ) del Valle Tafí ( p286 )

( p303 ), the base for ), the base for p303 Hit Wild West Chilecito ( Soak up the colonial ambience in sophisticated Observe at work in the memorable weavers Cleanse your lungs in the crisp mountain air of in the palette Wonder at nature’s POPULATION: 4.46 MILLION 4.46 MILLION POPULATION:

    HIGHLIGHTS HIGHLIGHTS 

Several popular routes await. From Salta you can take in the cactus sentinels of Parque await. From Salta you can take in the cactus popular routes Parque sentinels of Several The area has an Andean feel with its traditional handicrafts, Quechua-speaking with its traditional pockets, has an Andean feel area The

 and then down to the visually wondrous and history-filled Quebrada de Humahuaca.and then down to the visually wondrous and of San Antonio de los Cobres, heads northof San Antonio de los Cobres, to the spectacular salt plains of the Salinas Grandes, best wines. Another route from Salta soars into the mountains to the puna mining settlement from Salta soars into the mountains Another route best wines. tional weaving communities of the Valles Calchaquíes to Cafayate, home of some of Argentina’s home of some of Argentina’s to Cafayate, Calchaquíes tional weaving communities of the Valles Nacional Los Cardones on your way to gorgeous Cachi, and then head down through the tradi- Cachi, on your way to gorgeous Nacional Los Cardones resolutely urban Tucumán, a sugarcane capital, seems to look firmly to the future. a sugarcane capital, seems to look urban Tucumán, resolutely del Estero recalls bygone centuries, Salta’s beauty makes it a favorite stop for travelers, while for travelers, stop beauty makes bygone centuries, Salta’s it a favorite recalls del Estero Argentina’s first colonial settlements and have a special appeal. The quiet gentility of Santiago quiet a special appeal. The colonial settlements and have first Argentina’s puna (Andean highlands) stretching west to Chile and north to Bolivia. The region’s cities were cities were region’s to Chile and north west The highlands) stretching to Bolivia. puna (Andean coca leaves, llamas, the indigenous heritage of the inhabitants, Inca ruins, and the high, arid heritage of the inhabitants, Inca ruins, and llamas, the indigenous coca leaves, de Humahuaca. And always to the west is the brooding presence of magnificent peaks. of magnificent de Humahuaca. presence And always to the west is the brooding the jagged ruggedness of the Valles Calchaquíes to the palette of colors of the Quebrada Quebrada of colors of the to the palette Calchaquíes of the Valles the jagged ruggedness Nacional Talampaya in the far south to the twisted strata of the Quebrada de Cafayate; from from Quebrada de Cafayate; strata of the far south to the twisted in the Nacional Talampaya and tortured rockscapes are visible throughout, from the imposing formations of the Parque formations of the Parque visible throughout, from the imposing and tortured rockscapes are tough beneath the mighty Andes. Nature works its magic here with stone: weird, wonderful with here works its magic Nature Andes. tough beneath the mighty In stark contrast with the low, flat, humid northeast, with the low, flat, In stark contrast northwest Argentina’s sits lofty, dry and Northwest The Andean Andean The THE ANDEAN NORTHWEST 244

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if it sounds like an arch exclamation of exclamation of an arch if it sounds like 0388 / pop 278,336 / elev 1201m On August 23, 1812, during the wars of of On August 23, 1812, during the wars The city’s name is roughly pronounced San Salvador de Jujuy (commonly called The two capitals – comfortable Jujuy The two capitals – comfortable Jujuy to the west, the zone climbs from the sweaty the sweaty climbs from west, the zone to the Las of westward to the Yungas cloud forests JUJUY JUJUY Orientation the Río Grande floodplain Jujuy sits above the smaller Río Xibi Xibi meets it. where two parts: the old city, with a It consists of two incarnations had been razed by miffed planning groups who hadn’t given indigenous permission. independence, General Belgrano the ordered Jujuy. Its citizens complied in evacuation of what is famously known as the All possessions that could not be loaded on burned, along with the houses, the mules were Belgrano reported retreat. in a scorched-earth willing. They were that most citizens were their city in to what was left of able to return Jujuy bore of 1813. The province February conflict during these with wars, the brunt of invasions down the repeated Spain launching Quebrada de Humahuaca from Bolivia. hui; doing well. surprise, you’re % Jujuy cities, northwestern Of the trinity of Salta or of lacks the colonial sophistication Tucumán, but nevertheless urban vibe of enticing restaurants shines for its livable feel, good-looking locals. It’s got and gregarious, Argentina’s any of of feel the most indigenous is perpetually springlike; cities. The climate capital in the city is the highest provincial the country. simply Jujuy) was founded in 1593 as the most colonial city in present- northerly Spanish to the third attempt It was day Argentina. the previous found a city in this valley, after puna highlands and some of the most majestic the most majestic puna highlands and some of de los Andes. the Cordillera peaks of the jag- exploration of pads for launch are Quebrada de the of ravines chromatic ged Cafayate de Humahuaca; for and Quebrada in Calchaquíes, rich the Valles of the villages artisanal for the stark handicrafts; puna the aromatic Cafayate tor- ery; for nosing of rontés El Rey or Baritú. national parks of remote and colonial, beloved-of-travelers Salta – Salta – beloved-of-travelers and colonial,

PROVINCES •• Jujuy JUJUY & SALTA

Climate National Parks two northwestern provinces harbor an inspir- provinces two northwestern natural beauty and traditional ing wealth of and appealing sites archaeological of culture, national parks and wineries. urban spaces, of Bounded by Bolivia to the north and Chile PROVINCES yin and yang, Argentina’s like Intertwined JUJUY & SALTA JUJUY & SALTA cities of Tucumán and Salta. Slow trains from Tucumán and Salta. cities of it to Tucumán. make Buenos Aires nections are generally available for destinations available generally nections are large the country, particularly from the all over Salta, Tucumán, Santiago del Estero, CatamarcaSalta, Tucumán, Santiago del Estero, and La and flights from Salta Rioja, to Córdoba and Iguazú. Salta has the most flights. Bus con- Getting There & Away Getting There & Away to Jujuy, flights Aires from Buenos are There fabulous quebracho colorado tree. colorado fabulous quebracho Copo ( p293 ) harbors anteaters, parrots and the anteaters, ) harbors p293 Copo ( has aboriginal petroglyphs, photogenic rock photogenic has aboriginal petroglyphs, formations and unique flora and fauna, while Nacional Parque the region, in the far east of cactus-studded photo opportunities. Much fur- cactus-studded photo opportunities. Much ) p305 ( Talampaya Nacional ther south, Parque Parque Nacional Los Cardones ( p272 ) is full of ) is full of p272 Nacional Los Cardones ( Parque cluding toucans. Far-flung Parque Nacional Parque cluding toucans. Far-flung ) contains subtropical montane p252 Baritú ( big cats, otters and is home to monkeys, forest Between squirrels. Saltaand forest and Cachi, ( p251 ) is the most biologically diverse park biologically diverse ) is the most p251 ( in- with birdlife, in the country and teems array of birdlife, as well as pumas and jaguars. birdlife, array of Nacional El Rey Parque The less accessible Parque Nacional Calilegua ( p250 ) preserves p250 Nacional Calilegua ( Parque is home to an and subtropical cloud forest This region holds some important national This region and Saltaparks, mostly in Jujuy provinces. Nacional Calilegua summer or the scorching Laof Rioja. it out in the steamy cloud forest of Parque Parque of cloud forest steamy it out in the Although the zone’s crossedthe Tropic by things keep Capricorn, the altitudes here of south and east, however, To the tem- chilly. and you’ll sweat warmer, much are peratures northwest’s weather. Drought is often a a Drought is often weather. northwest’s virtual desert. many zones are problem and Dryness and cold characterize the extreme extreme the characterize and cold Dryness lonelyplanet.com 68ºW 22º S 22º 23º S 23º

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showcases by well- exhibitions 423-7565; www.paisajesdelnoroeste.tur % ( (stir-fried pork with boiled maize) or pork with boiled maize) (stir-fried sopa de maní 424-9539; cnr San Martín424-9539; cnr San admission free; & Sarmiento; 8:30am-midnight Mon-Fri,8:30am-midnight & 4:30pm-mid- 8:30am-1pm Hostal Casa de Barro Club Hostel Club Hostel % Sleeping Sleeping Friendly staff a tour agency. also operate Oterobarro.com.ar; 294; s/d without bathroom AR$40/75) welcoming, this and genuinely Light-hearted place has rooms that original and enjoyable bathrooms bright and shared and chirpy, are Semana de Jujuy in- of the city during the wars evacuation of gathering is the The next-largest dependence. the known as pilgrimage religious la Virgen del Río Blanco BUDGET cheap lots of are There the bus terminal. around streets chaotic .ar; San Martín 134; dm/s/d AR$35/70/120; new location across the road, this busy hostel bath- lockers, has good dark dorms that have per room. The rooms and only four berths also decent, rooms with bathrooms are private out the Jacuzzi and tiny a kitchen and there’s applies. discount International) back. HI (Hotel text, p249 ). Simple eateries around here serve around here ). Simple eateries p249 text, specialties; try hearty regional mote spicy Tours trips to the offer Jujuy operators Several Salinas Grandes, Quebrada de Humahuaca, Nacional Calilegua and other provin- Parque cial destinations. See Tourist the Provincial ) for a full listing. opposite Office ( Noroeste & EventsFestivals event,In August, Jujuy’s biggest the weeklong CULTURARTE CULTURARTE the modern space, An attractive ( h night Sat & Sun) DEL SUR MERCADO the bus termi- opposite market, Jujuy’s lively indig- trading post where nal, is a genuine swig enous Argentines (see boxed coca leaves maize soup) and peddle .ar; San Martín 136) Based at Club Hostel ( below ), it hits the below .ar; San Martín 136) Based at Club Hostel ( Quebrada de Humahuaca Salinas Grandes and more. area, established Argentine contemporary artists. artists. contemporary established Argentine little bal- a great with cafe-bar also a There’s the street. cony elevated over

ca- Museo 8am-8pm 422-1315; 422-1315; h 8am-1pm & 4- % ( . Police mu- h . There is also . There PROVINCES •• Jujuy JUJUY & SALTA 9am-3pm & 5-9pm Mon- 8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am- h h Museo Histórico Provincial dates only from 1912. 1912. only from dates Museo Histórico Franciscano is definitely worth a visit. worth is definitely Iglesia y Convento San Francisco 423-7715; admission free; 423-7715; admission free; % ( (colonial town hall) houses the Museo Arqueológico Provincial 422-1355; Lavalle 256; admission AR$2; 423-3434; admission AR$2; , alongside on Belgrano, a strong se- retains % % and Flemish masters; this school gradually this school masters; and Flemish its own that developed a high-quality style of still exists today. which came about when monks taughtwhich indig- Spanish the great the style of enous Peruvians ( Fri) school, colonial art from the Cuzco lection of (cnr Belgrano & Lavalle) While the Franciscan order has been in Jujuy since 1599, IGLESIA Y CONVENTO SAN FRANCISCO IGLESIA Y CONVENTO SAN FRANCISCO some English labels, and guides on hand to labels, some English answer questions. Jujuy and 19th-century fashion. There are are Jujuy and 19th-century fashion. There Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm & 4-8pm Sat & Sun) and colonial art, as well as exhibits religious on the independence era, the evacuation of of the wars of independence. The story of The story of independence. of the wars of Lavalle unfolds in ( the imposing wooden door of this colonial the imposing wooden door of house, killing General Juan Lavalle, a hero MUSEO HISTÓRICO PROVINCIAL MUSEO HISTÓRICO PROVINCIAL a bullet pierced civil wars, During Argentina’s of a llama. of the discovery that in 1876 you could expect a the discovery carnal knowledge peso fine if you wanted five grisly crime photos, indiscriminate homage to homage grisly crime photos, indiscriminate in this case gem, authority and the odd quirky seums in Argentina are funny things, with are seums in Argentina On the plaza, the attractively colonnaded On the plaza, the attractively bildo Policial CABILDO & MUSEO POLICIAL CABILDO & MUSEO POLICIAL typical possessions. Stafftypical possessions. hand out a booklet English. that has information in for cosmetic reasons) and mummified bodies for cosmetic reasons) been their displayed with what might have 1400 BC to 800 BC. a selection also There’s (practiced skulls with cranial deformities of ture, which existed in Las existed which Yungas from about ture, Lavalle 434; admission AR$2; Lavalle 434; admission & Sun) 1pm & 3-7pm Sat MUSEO ARQUEOLÓGICO PROVINCIAL PROVINCIAL ARQUEOLÓGICO MUSEO The Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book Nevertheless, its 9pm Mon-Fri, & 6-8pm Sat & Sun) 9am-noon The standout exhibit is a vivid 3000-year-old The standout exhibit is a vivid 3000-year-old with snakes depicted figure, goddess fertility a giving birth. She’s in the act of for hair and San Francisco cul- the advanced product of 66 66 66 66 66 66

THE ANDEAN NORTHWEST rant (see rant (see opposite ). They’re OKfortheprice, tucked awaybehind the ChungKingrestau- de Abril 469;s/dAR$80/140) de Abril of characters at theaged Avenida, buttheyall Avenida Hotel MIDRANGE further back,thequieter itgets. with shared bathroomare alittlepoky.The carefullybut select (upstairs) assomeof those without bathroomAR$38/76) [email protected]; Alvear627;s/dwithbathroom AR$78/95, is included. comfy lounge andakitchen, andbreakfast withrock-artmotifs.There’sthroughout a that are very clean.Theplaceisdecorated 248 4 1 2 3

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The best 7am-6pm Mon-Sat) This is plaza-side dining at This is plaza-side peñas 422-2982; Alvear 627; mains AR$14-34; Alvear 627; mains 422-2982; h This place offers traditional This place offers

424-3427; Av Senador 222; mains Pérez 424-3427; Av 422-4911; Sarmiento 368; meals AR$15- 422-4911; Sarmiento boliches This is a popular, worthwhile worthwhile a popular, This is % 423-1126; Balcarce 272; mains AR$15-40; 423-1126; Balcarce 272; mains (

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% % southeastern edge of town; another is of edge southeastern ( & Sat) town, while out on RN9 south of (Alvear 526; but a big, popular central pub with an elevated music. for live stage chips. But, as in Russian roulette, there are are there But, as in Russian roulette, chips. outcomes. than negative positive more 4-course lunch AR$35; food – there’s is a standout. The vegetarian a daily set menu – is excellent and the sal- and soups can be washed down ads, crepes the It’s an earthy place where juice. with fresh a welcome food makes simple, home-cooked out the front does a range The bakery change. wholesome breads. of Drinking & Entertainment Jujuy’s folkloric to be a cab ride away and open week- tend the best is end nights only. One of ( h place option is this central, upscale restaurant) in a re- favorites all your barbecued offering on plenty more But there’s atmosphere. laxed tasty sauces to go of the menu, with a range pork or beef, and chicken, of with your choice Prices starters. various appetizing avocado meat the way you the fair, and you’ll get are want it cooked. new creations. alongside trendy Andean plates is filling and tasty; starter crepe The vegetarian but the pork with honey-mustard sauce could dignified bed than crinkle-cut do with a more h menu Argentine with an extensive restaurant daily specials (AR$18 to including good-value popular attached an evenAR$24); it has more the the name, about despite In fact, pizzeria. is Chinese. here can’t get you only chow the full gamut of its finest. Miralejos offers inter- of and pastaa wide choice (with steak local trout dishes esting sauces), with a few place a great thrown in. The outside tables are music selection and the eclectic for breakfast to say the least. is interesting, 32; AR$32-45;

) . The . The Smack 9am-8pm) ) An oasis bica h and aiW PROVINCES •• Jujuy JUJUY & SALTA One of Jujuy’s best One of coca coca aiWs 422-2539; www.elarribo.com; 422-2539; www.elarribo.com; 423-0203; www.hotelaugustus 424-3270; Av Senador 381; Pérez 424-3270; Av % ( %

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( lunch & dinner)

– chicken, tongue or mixed – or mixed tongue – chicken, refers to bicarbonate of soda, of soda, to bicarbonate refers h (Lavalle 415; cakes AR$5-8;

Bica picante picante

COCA CHEWING COCA CHEWING Once you get seriously north, you see signs outside shops advertising former refers to the leaves, mainly grown in mainly grown in to the leaves, former refers used to produce and Bolivia, which are Peru cocaine. an alkaline that, when chewed along with (as is customary among Andean the leaves their mild stimulant effect peoples), releases Chewing and combats fatigue and hunger. coca and possessing small amounts for personal use is legal, but only in the northern them of Salta and Jujuy. Taking provinces or into Chile is illegal, into other provinces plenty of searches. are and there Manos Jujeñas

Posada El Arribo Hotel Augustus mains AR$14-26; traditional slow-food for no-frills addresses buzz cooking, this fills up with a contented several clas- are evenings. There on weekend dishes to choose from, but sic northeastern it’s the the house. that’s the pride of cake. refined decor, where you can take your well- you can take decor, where refined deserved and rather tasty for coffee break CaféLe Petit salon with classic, A stately and well-loved Eating Eating by comparison, but go for an older room if by comparison, but go you can. ful, with high ceilings and wooden floors; ful, with high ceilings and wooden floors; garden. a huge and patio space galore there’s doesn’tThe modern annex behind lose much family-run place is a real visual feast. The The visual feast. family-run place is a real 19th-century mansion is wonder- renovated Belgrano 1263; s/d AR$210/255; Jujuy, this highly impressive in the heart of personable servicepersonable for money. The and value with draped and are newish, feel mattresses the rooms have Half bedspreads. fleur-de-lis pleasant can use balconies. You the pool at a away. cab ride just a 15-minute hotel .com.ar; Belgrano 715; s/d AR$182/230; .com.ar; Belgrano this offers (er, block), street on the pedestrian and nice touches include a morning paper include a morning and nice touches Good value. door. put under your with good-looking clean bathrooms. Some Some clean bathrooms. with good-looking the plaza, spectacularout over views have Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book THE ANDEAN NORTHWEST airport. central choices; there are alsobranches atthe are just19kmfrom Jujuy;themineral-rich dry riverbed, thehotspringsof greenSituated inadeep valleyabove amostly AROUND JUJUY Belgrano 715) .hertz.com.ar; www.avis.com; Güemes864) remise it’s AR$65ina (AR$20).Otherwise flights Internacional at12.30pmtocoincidewith center. leaves fromtheHotel Ashuttleservice 6-7 airportis33kmeastofJujuy’s ElCadillal the Around Getting 4-5 Tucumán 62 69 5 Tilcara 10 Susques 26 35 1¾ Salvador Mazza 4-5 Salta 23 1¼ Purmamarca 9 23 2 210-250 Mendoza La Quiaca 3 13 Humahuaca 20 210 Libertador General Córdoba 166 Catamarca 96 10 14 Buenos Aires Destination Cost destinations andfares: Quiaca. Sample and theBolivianborderatLa (AR$) and northtotheQuebradadeHumahuaca Duration run onTuesday,Thursday andSunday. dothesame Andesmar orPullman.Geminis Wednesday andFriday;bookitinadvancewith (hr) (AR$160)around8:30amonMonday, Atacama hasmore butSalta alternatives. services, Dorrego &Iguazú) The old-school BUS (AR$827) oncedaily. ices BuenosAires’ Aeroparque Jorge Newbery Argentinas tions toPuertoMadryn andIguazú. (AR$68),withconnec- (AR$712) viaSalta 1283) Andes AIR &Away There Getting 250 a atn 9 2 19 San Martín Buses coming from Salta runtoSanPedro comingfromSalta Buses de If you’re after arental car, There southtoSalta are frequent services flies six times weekly toBuenosAires fliessixtimesweekly UU AT RVNE • Aon uu JUJUY &SALTA ••AroundJujuy PROVINCES

( % (radio taxi). 431-0279; www.andesonline.com.ar; San Martín 431-0279; www.andesonline.com.ar; SanMartín

( % hasprovincial andlong-distance 422-7198; Av Pérez 355) Senador bus terminal or , inHotel Augustus,are Hertz

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% Aerolíneas Aerolíneas 424-4938; serv-

market than theanimalsthemselves. as pumas,tapirs andjaguars, are easiertosee colorful, butthetracksof rare mammals,such of Chacototheeast.Birdlife isabundant and reaches above theforest forboundlessviews Hermosotions, about 3600m,verdant Cerro eleva- 760-sq-km park.Atthepark’shighest isthegoalof thisaccessible preservation forest of theSerranía whose de Calilegua, treeless altiplanogives cloud waytothedense tothe devoted sugarcane industry.Here, arid, a humidandfertile subtropicalzonemostly Jujuy province’s Yungas, eastern portionisLas % PARQUE CALILEGUA NACIONAL ist office. GorritineartheJujuytour-utes) fromCalle acceptunder-16sIt doesn’t asguests. rooms (viewscostmore) andspatreatments. with acentral-Europeanfeel, very comfortable .termasdereyes.com; s/dAR$210/360; 8:30pm) them fortheirmagicalproperties. indigenous tobathein chiefsbecause used 50ºC. Theyare sonamed(Kings’Springs) water emerges atanaturaltemperature of aliso and queñoa. Above 2600m thisgrades forest ofthe montane is composed conifers, lianas, often mistcovered. Above 1200m, punctuated30m tall, byferns, epiphytes and canopyofforms adense trees more than 550m and1600m,thecloudforest Between such asdeciduouslapacho andpaloamarillo. of tree speciescommonintheGranChaco, from 350mto500mabove consists level, sea ecosystems. Thetransitional avarietyof comprises Calilegua dry season, ayear,butwith adefinedwintercipitation 600m higher. Thetrailsare wellmarked. las Colmenas,13kmpastAguas Negrasand There’s anotherranger atMesada station de more informationabout trailsandconditions. (admission free; formation, buttheranger atthe SanMartín.General Ithasgeneral parkin- lage, 5kmnorthof thetownof Libertador .gov.ar; The park’s Information Bus 1Crunshourly(AR$1.75,45min- Receiving 1000mmto1800mmof pre- There’s apublic 03886 , andfree campsite here, aswelltheup- h Hotel TermasHotel deReyes 7am-2pm Mon-Fri) headquarters h 9am-6pm) pool inAguas Negrashas

(admission AR$15;

( is in Calilegua vil- isinCalilegua % ( %

422046; calilegua@apn lonelyplanet.com 0388-492-2522; www aiWs selva park entrance (jungle) h 9am- ) , ,

THE ANDEAN NORTHWEST ) ,

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([email protected] Parador 34 Parador 6am-midnight) h Parque Nacional El Rey Nacional Parque 423790; Entre Ríos 400; s/d AR$80/100; Ríos 423790; Entre 430334; San Lorenzo s/n; s/d without bathroom s/n; s/d without bathroom 430334; San Lorenzo % (

(ranch) that formerly occupied the (ranch) % is a lovely bungalow with rooms, a bungalow with rooms, a is a lovely (

The park’s emblem is the giant toucan, The park’s emblem is the giant toucan, A daily bus (at 8:30am) goes from Libertador Little Calilegua, 5km north, is a much Little Calilegua, a much 5km north, is is at the southern end of the Las is at the southern end of Yungas PARQUE NACIONAL EL REY NACIONAL EL REY PARQUE which is appropriate because of the abun- because is appropriate of which mosquito might but the be just dant birdlife, yourself for ticks, (also check as appropriate although they don’t carry disease). Most of the same mammals found in Calilegua and also here. Baritú are General San Martín to Valle Grande (two Grande (two to Valle General San Martín through the park. It passeshours) the Aguas bus station at 9am. The return Negras ranger for day trips to passes around 6pm; perfect a taxi from ei- the park. It’s also easy to get ther Libertador Negras or Calilegua to Aguas (AR$20 to AR$30). Salta,East of .ar) a habitatsubtropical corridor and protects in the that is the most biologically diverse its name from the country. The park takes estancia and whose led to the park’s expropriation area creation. bledown tropical feel and a deafening cho- and a deafening bledown tropical feel Near the park office, cicadas. rus of Colonial AR$25/50) Getting There & Away Numerous buses between Jujuy/Salta and the stop at Mazza Bolivian border at Salvador and Calilegua,Libertador General Martín San on the highwayand some will let you off at the Libertador junction for the park, 3km north of Calilegua. It’s 8km from and 2km south of Negras; station at Aguas to the ranger here enough trafficthere’s to hitchhike. arcane, whosearcane, sweet sickly smell pervades to stay Places include all corners. Lapachos with its scalloped handbasins tries hard which plaza. a block from the carpets, and wine-red Eating, Posada del except at the upmarket town, is dire. outside Sol hotel bright little besides lights, bouts, but offers steak, TV, a huge internet, overcooked and and rabbit. chicken stay, appealing place to with a tum- more shady porch and a verdant, sculpture-filled sculpture-filled and a verdant, shady porch garden. the highway is esteemed herea- in the center, Belgrano & RN 34; mains AR$9-22; Belgrano & RN 34;

La Guaraní , about , about (Aguas Negras) (Aguas

Nacional El Rey PROVINCES •• Parque & SALTA JUJUY La Lagunita campground , dotted with weird signboards, with weird signboards, , dotted starts 3km up the road from Aguas starts 3km up the road from Aguas

There are seven marked trails in the park, trails seven marked are There The 230 bird species at home in the park bird species at home The 230

Nearby Libertador General San Martín Nearby Libertador General San Martín From Valle Grande, beyond the park park Grande, beyond the From Valle Vehicles with clearance can get right right get with clearance can Vehicles is a sizable town devoted to processing sug- is a sizable stay accommodations at San Francisco, 39km end the western Negras, beyond from Aguas the park. of is some 300m from the ranger station at the is some 300m from the ranger and has bathrooms and It is free entrance. simple home- are There shower, but no shop. Camping is the only option in the park itself. The developed Sleeping & Eating Sleeping & Eating boundaries to the west, it’s possible to hike Cerro Hermoso and the nearly impenetrable Cerro Hermoso its steep ravines. of forests Junta trail been no park, if there’s through the 23km of outstanding views of rain. The road offers in a week along the Sierra de to Humahuaca Zenta, or to Tilcara. Negras, and is a four-hour return walk with return Negras, and is a four-hour views over great by steepish climbs rewarded the park. For waterbirds, head to For waterbirds, Negras. The walk from Aguas 1½ hours’ cultural trail introduces you to the lower tropical forest. from 20-minute strolls to tough four-hour tough strolls to from 20-minute four-hour campground, a short From the hikes. marked with numerous animal tracks, includ- with marked an takes cats. The descent large ing those of hour, the ascent twice that. station at Mesada de las Colmenas, follow the de las Colmenas, follow the station at Mesada creek trail down to a beautiful , rugged steep The best places for bird and mammal watch- The best places for bird in the early courses near the stream ing are the ranger From afternoon. morning or late Activities Aguas Negras, there’s little chance of spotting of little chance Negras, there’s Aguas species. reclusive caries and otters. The presence of the road of The presence caries and otters. the park, the nearby through the middle of harvesting gravel hydro-station and regular mean that, on the trails near in the riverbed and colorful toucans. Importantand colorful mammals pec- collared pumas, jaguars, include tapirs, de Humahuaca. ducks brown eagles, torrent include condors, into moist grasslands, which become drier drier become which grasslands, into moist proceedsas one the Quebrada west toward Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book THE ANDEAN NORTHWEST which inhabitsthemoist forest above 1300m. tapirs. Thepark’s emblemistheforest squirrel, ern river otters, cats,jaguars Geoffroy’s and black howlerand capuchin monkeys, south- number of threatened mammals, including Like andElRey,itharbors alarge Calilegua forest. subtropicalmontane conserving northernmost of Yungasparks thethree Las isthe theBolivianborder, Baritú Hugging PARQUE BARITÚ NACIONAL short of thepark. getstransportation asfarLumbreras, 91km ( is viaguidedtourfromSalta p265 ). Public hiring a4WD,theeasiestwaytoget here extragas.Ifyouaren’tso considertaking Güemes,160kmfromthepark,at General fuelis raining.Last ifit’sbeen impassable on rough blog (http://pnelrey.blogspot.com). forup-to-dateSalta infoorcheck therangers’ snacionales.gov.ar; España366; Administration There the isnoshop. Contact showers andpowerfrom7pmto10pm. quarters, withtoilets,drinkable water, cold AprilandOctober.between get yourfeet wet. river crossings, sobringwaterproof or shoes get toknowthepark.Trailsinvolve multiple rangers recommend athree-day toreally stay Two othertrailsare of similarday-triplength; to moss-covered waterbirds. Longer trailslead ties toobserve from parkheadquarters, offers opportuni- accessible byvehicle. 252 hour climbtoanarea teeming withbirdlife. There are variouswell-marked trails,some It’s tough togetIt’s tough here. Thelast46kmare There isfree campingatthepark’shead- Entry isfree andthebesttimeto visit is Bolivia. Here youcrossthe station),oneofthecountry’stwomajorfrontierswithknown asPocitos,thenameofdefunct RN 34continuespastCalilegua settlement, to Argentina’s northernmost Salvador Mazza(also BOLIVIA VIASALVADOR MAZZA B$6.90. cities. BoliviaisonehourbehindArgentina.buses fromJujuy,Saltaandothernorthern Canada, Australia, NewZealand bynumerous and SouthAfrica didnot.SalvadorMazzaisserved if youneedone. At thetimeofresearch, USnationalsneededavisa,butcitizens oftheEU,UK, and SantaCruz(US$11,15hours).There’s noBolivianconsulate, sogetyourvisainJujuyorSalta settlement ofYacuiba, whichhasweeklyflightstoLaPaz, andbusestoTarija (US$14,12hours) UU AT RVNE • Pru ainlBrt JUJUY &SALTA ••Parque PROVINCES NacionalBaritú At thetimeofwritingexchangerate forbolivianos wasAR$1toB$1.80andUS$1 ripio

(APN; (gravel) roadthat’salmost Pozo Verde Pozo % 0387-431-2683; www.parque Laguna LosPatitos h , athree- tofour- 8am-3pm Mon-Fri) frontier National Parks

( h , 2km 24hr) in , and take ashared, andtake taxi5kmtothelarger Bolivian [email protected]) four-hour walkeach impressive waythrough Los a ranger butnootherservices. station at thenorthwestcornerof thepark.Ithas another 26kmbringsyoutoLipeo,ahamlet further 17kmgets youtoLosToldos,and ing backintoArgentina Mamora. atLa A heading westward113km,before cross- you hugthenorthbankof RíoBermejo, then Aguas Blancas.CrossingintoBolivia, headforOrán34, 90kmbeyondCalilegua, Bolivia.only roadaccessisthrough FromRN tion byinfiltratingfromBoliviain1963.The Masetti theArgentine triedtostart revolu- España 366; (APN; at obtained Admission isfree andinformationcanbe deep reds;deep therockformations inplacesrecall from shadesstantly, of creamy white torich, World Heritage–listed valleychanges con- undulating waves. The palette of thisUnesco mations thatreveal a spectrumof colors in scallopedfor- erodedintospectacular been have strata sedimentary whose mountainsides dry butriver-scoured canyonoverlooked by Bolivia. It’saharsh butvividlandscape,a Humahuaca snakes itswayupwardtoward North of Jujuy,thememorable Quebrada de QUEBRADA DEHUMAHUACA accommodation intheirhomes. canofferthis ride. LocalsinLipeoandBaritú cedar forest. Youcanrent horses inLipeofor away, andtotheremote hamletof ing tothehotspringsof requires a4WD. a supermarket. Thedrive tothe parkusually Toldos hasaccommodations,telephone and Here, psychopathic disciple CheGuevara’s From Lipeo, there are varioustrails, includ- % 0387-431-2683; www.parquesnacionales.gov.ar; h 8am-3pm Mon-Fri) park or

headquarters National Parks Administration inSalta. Cayotal lonelyplanet.com

( % , twohours 03878-450101; Baritú , a

THE ANDEAN NORTHWEST

. 253 , with 8am-6pm) La Vicuñita emigration h Small and en-

(hill), whose strik- 8am-1pm & 2- 7pm) 8am-1pm & 2- 490-8038; Salta s/n; camping cerro h 490-8089; elintidepurmamarca@ (

% (

% Behind this is a the church, (

(admission by donation;

church information office El Pequeño Inti El Pequeño There’s an ATM on the plaza, as well as on the plaza, as well as an ATM There’s marine-schemed bathrooms. marine-schemed ing colors are best appreciated in the morning in the best appreciated are ing colors or evening sunlight. SLEEPING & EATING Hostería Bebo Vilte bathroom AR$40/100, with per person AR$20, dm/d without bathroom AR$150/220) rooms good motel-style popular place offering rooms and interior with bathroom, simpler and a camping bathroom dorms with shared more much with barbecues. Prices are area high summer. outside of realistic Offering value (for two), it has una- plaza. dorned rooms with comfortable beds and The village is postcard pretty, with ochre with ochre pretty, is postcard The village housesadobe trees ancient algarrobo and This, and 17th-century church. by the bijou it perhaps to Jujuy, has made its proximity spot; if most over-touristed the northwest’s vil- for an authentic Andean looking you’re is Purmamarca on. Nevertheless, move lage, goods; place to shop for woven an excellent setsup on the market poncho a flourishing plaza every day. an easy but spectacularmaps that include the 3km walk around the hotmail.com; Florida s/n; s/d AR$90/110) ticing, this is a fine little choice just off the just off ticing, this is a fine little choice PROVINCES •• Quebrada de Humahuaca & SALTA JUJUY , 130km from Purmamarca, which has gas and an ATM. which has gas and , 130km from Purmamarca, , which serves up tasty meals, too. is some way before it. No fruit, vegetables or coca leaves are allowed into Chile – allowed into Chile – are or coca leaves it. No fruit, vegetables is some way before (a stew of maize, beans, beef, maize, of (a stew locro Susques 8am-10pm) 03887-490207; [email protected]; San Martín bathroom AR$30/60, r per person without 121; s/d with Susques is well worth village its terrific a stop for four Saturday and Sunday from Jujuy to Susques (AR$26, Thursday, AndesBus runs Tuesday, de Paso Beyond Susques, the road continues a further 154km (fuel up in Susques) to the h % 0388 / pop 510 / elev 2192m Dating from 1598, it has a thatched roof, cactus-wood and beaten-earth ceiling floor, as well as a tourist office There’s adobe walls. paintings of saints on the whitewashed charismatic, naïve the bank, friendly opposite on the main road, and basic places to stay, including, ( ( bathroom AR$20) and Antofagasta in Calama de Atacama, road continues toward San Pedro they check. paved The South Australia, Nationals of the USA, Canada, this route. Buses from Salta and Jujuy travel Chile. for is payable a fee However, Chile. and the EU do not need a visa to enter New Zealand Africa, – that’s what Chileans pay to (US$61) citizens (US$132) and Australian US (US$131), Canadian apply for a visa for those nations. CHILE VIA SUSQUES CHILE VIA SUSQUES through spectacular bleak highland scenery road climbs doggedly from Purmamarca paved The partly You hit civiliza- to a 4150m pass, then crosses a plateau occupied by the Salinas Grandes. tion at hours) via Purmamarca. to five Argentine is the Chilean border, although Jama (4230m), a spectacular journey. This Dotting the valley are dusty, picturesque, dusty, picturesque, valley are Dotting the There are many interesting stops along this stops along many interesting are There sits under the celebrated Cerro de los Siete sits under the celebrated Seven a spectacular (Hill of Colors), Colores the marzi- formation resembling and jagged a megalomaniac pastry chef. pan fantasy of % highway, the west of Purmamarca, 3km Little when the colors are more vivid and the wind more are when the colors hasn’t got up. Purmamarca south in Salta. The Quebrada de Humahuaca south in Salta. itself in the morning, shows its best side early colonial post route between Potosí (Bolivia) colonial post route buses the road run along and Buenos Aires; easy to or so, so it’s quite every 40 minutes only spot The jump off and on as required. is in Jujuy, or further a car hereabouts to hire has experienced a tourism boom in recent boom in recent has experienced a tourism full in summer, when ac- very and gets years commodation prices soar. warming pork and sausage) and llama fillets. The region of places to stay, plus pretty, historic adobe historic adobe places to stay, pretty, plus of serving restaurants and homey churches, indigenous towns that have a fine variety variety a fine towns that have indigenous canyon’s southern stretches are overlooked by overlooked are stretches canyon’s southern sentinels,cardón cactus but these out peter as the road rises.beyond Humahuaca a necklace of sharks’ teeth, in others the knob- in others teeth, sharks’ of a necklace beast. The some unspeakable of bly backbone Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book THE ANDEAN NORTHWEST Ruta 52,Km5;d/aptAR$260/500; option, though thefoodismediocre.option, though another block tothechurch. cess roadtothesquare, PlazaPrado,andon runsfrom theac- The mainstreet, Belgrano, on thetown’sdusty streets. existence hascreated aninteresting balance and artyurbanrefugees looking foraquieter ers getting onwithacenturies-old wayof life retreats tohostels. Themixture of localfarm- modations choice –fromluxuryboutique andoffersHumahuaca base awideaccom- many people’schoice astheirQuebradade valley fromthePurmamarcaturnoff, is Picturesque Tilcara, 23kmfurtherupthe % Susques, a130kmsteepclimbaway. isin at Volcán.Westward,thenextgasstation can befound25kmnorth,atTilcara, orsouth, hours) viaSalinasGrandes. Monday) toSusques(AR$20,three tofour AR$8). There’s day(bar atleastonebusevery 30 minutes) andHumahuaca(1¼hours, one totwohours; others gotoTilcara (AR$3, toJujuy(AR$9,1¼hours) runevery Buses THERE&AWAYGETTING your meal,thisisthebest if youwantthewholelocalmusicdealover diners but eatingestablishment, innearlyevery mains AR$12-30; as localtrout,orlambstew withquinoa. dishessuch the town’sbestrestaurant, serving h to holeupforawhile. with it.Theyare stylish andcozy; fineplaces are tucked intothe right movie, strange butinvitingapartments these outofLooking straight ascience-fiction .com.ar; Chapacals/n;aptfor2/4peopleAR$320/460; ously smallerbutstilllovely. Goodvalue. local fabricsandcardónwood;roomsare obvi- five andare justbeautifullydecorated with buildings. There are two apartmentsthatsleep views andhandsometerracotta-colored adobe road above outforitsvalley town,thisstands handful of characterful hotels onthemain 254 Tilcara Purmamarca has no gas station; the closest theclosest Purmamarca hasnogasstation; deClaudiaVilte El Rincón Los Morteros Los Colorados Huaira Huasi Tilcara isconnected byabridge toRN9. lunch &dinner) 0388 / pop 4358 / elev 2461m 0388 /pop4358elev UU AT RVNE • Qerd eHmhaa JUJUY &SALTA ••QuebradadeHumahuaca PROVINCES h

( ( Warmlylitandstylish, thisis %

% ( lunch &dinner) % 490-8002; Saltas/n;mainsAR$30-45; 490-8070; www.huairahuasi.com.ar; 490-8070; www.huairahuasi.com.ar; 490-8182; www.loscoloradosjujuy (Libertad s/n; admission AR$10, s/n;admissionAR$10, (Libertad

aiW folklore Minstrels serenade cerro, andblendin (folk music) (folkmusic) ) Oneof a i

) insight intothelifeinsight of peoplelivingaround tifacts fromthe has alistofaccommodationprices. 2-9pm Sat,8am-noonSun)Goodinformationonwalksand .com.ar; Belgrano366; stimulation, there’s acactusgardenbythe lived anddiedhere. Forfurthersucculent soulthat acardónforevery and, seemingly, wall alongside. hasgreat Thesite itself views note thenichewalkway toanaltar; inthe is the‘church,’ abuildingwithshort paved able fortifiedcommunity.Mostinteresting can get afeel of whatwould have asiz- been plaza wouldhave you Nevertheless, been. archaeologists bangwhereto pioneering the worse yetistheearlier,ridiculousmonument The 1950sreconstruction hastaken liberties; the ruinsdate fromthe11thto15thcenturies. thesite before,though wasundoubtedly used commanding theriver valleybothwaysand, bridge. Its situation isundeniablystrategic, is 1kmsouthof thecenter acrossan iron ArqueológicoAR$10,Monfree; incl Museo tion, the The reconstructed pre-Columbian fortifica- Pucará SIGHTS office Tourist theplazaonLavalle. off call centers aswellabankwithATM just There are centralinternet placesand several INFORMATION when the sunisonthepool. y fauna.’ left justafter asignthatsays path totheGarganta leaves thisroadtothe along theriver before crossing thebridge. The terfall. Head towardthe delDiablo Garganta the mostpopularistwo-hour hike to interestingOf several walksaroundTilcara, ACTIVITIES Plaza Prado. on isinastrikingcolonialhouse museum nial masksisparticularlyimpressive. The that time. Theroomdedicated toceremo- 6pm) Belgrano 445;admissioninclpucaráAR$10,Monfree; well-presented The Universidad deBuenosAires runsthe Museo Arqueológico entrance. of regional artifacts.There are somear- Swimmingisbest inthemorning, pucará ( % Museo Arqueológico Museo

Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels 495-5135; mun_tilcara@cootepal (walled city; pucará, h , apretty canyonandwa- 8am-9pm Mon-Fri, 8am-1pm& 8am-9pm Mon-Fri, andexhibitsgive an pucará, % 495-5073; admission ‘Cuide laflora butturnleft h (

% 8am-6pm) 495-5006; h 9am- , THE ANDEAN NORTHWEST 255 ) These With With ) sW 495-5130; www.rin aiWs % ( ) This rustic complex complex This rustic W 495-5017; www.posadadeluz 495-5720; www.hoteldeturismo.8k 495-5331; Lavalle 397; dishes AR$11- % % ( 495-5744; www.cerrochico.com; d/q 495-5744; www.cerrochico.com; Hit the corner of the square the square Hit the corner of

Two kilometers from town from town Two kilometers ( ) % (

% Romantic and welcoming, this ( )

Rincón de Fuego Ws lunch & dinner) aiW h o Cerro Chico Posada de Luz Hotel de Turismo without bathroom AR$180; bathroom AR$180; without 18; longstandingfor this cheery local restaurant, cover folkloric music with no live offers which locals and a mix of of every night, more charge than in most places, and low-priced visitors dishes. regional all feature pot-bellied stoves and individual and individual stoves pot-bellied all feature and views out over with deckchairs terraces just six rooms, so book are the valley. There ahead. Ambrosetti 445; s AR$270-365, d AR$305- condefuego.com; 415; town; away at the top of posada (inn) is tucked to with someone you it’s a fine spot to retreat and stone bare artistic use Effective, of love. the rooms atmosphere; adobe lends much with woodstoves. darkish but seductive, are cozy, and exquisitely are The common areas in the patio’s baked bread features breakfast clay oven. EATING de CarlitosPeña location, mountainviews and pool (summer cheaper It’s much bet. it a safe only) make off-season. AR$220/280; .com.ar; Ambrosetti 661; r AR$240-320; place is this little charm, a nouveau-rustic days. a fantastic spot to unwind for a few but sitting areas, rooms have expensive More a special place, both hotel and hostel. The The and hostel. both hotel a special place, situation, secluded, shady welcoming owners, dorms, and new stone- thoughtfully different with hammocks and deckchairs clad rooms end up place you of it the sort out front make a There’s than you expected. staying longer included and HI discount. good breakfast .com; Belgrano 590; s/d AR$150/195; but the facili- always lack character, hotels ACA rooms aren’t The good for the price. ties are balconies. The central little but some have huge down a dirt road, this attractive complex of of complex down a dirt road, this attractive Quebrada gorgeous cabins climbs a hill with The stand- feel. relaxing views and a remote, compact but handsome, and ard cabins are spot. Turn left little is a great the pool area into Tilcara straight bridge crossing the after and follow the signs. up a path three blocks west of the church is the church of blocks west three up a path

is a Semana 495-5399; Carnaval (room in % 8am-7pm) is a recom- (

h 0388-15-500-8570; 0388-15-500-8570; PROVINCES •• Quebrada de Humahuaca & SALTA JUJUY Caravana de Llamas % ( (horseback rides) rides) (horseback , with sports, music , with sports, music

495-5410; www.casalosmolles casa de familia casa 495-5197; www.malkahostel.com % (

Genara de Vargas % (

cabalgatas (Mother Earth) festival is also is also festival (Mother Earth) Enero Tilcareño , whose well-kept house , whose is opposite well-kept Run with laissez-faire friendliness friendliness Run with laissez-faire ) (Holy Week). August’s indigenous (Holy Week). August’s indigenous 495-5326; www.caravanadellamas.com) 495-5326; www.caravanadellamas.com) There are several places for horseback rid- horseback severalfor places are There Hostel Malka Casa Molles los Tilcara Mountain BikeMountain Tilcara % .ar; San Martín s/n, Barrio Malka; d dm/s/d AR$50/150/220, scene. and a garden to lounge around in. There’s around in. There’s and a garden to lounge space and a good social kitchen plenty of iW blocks three by a young couple, this hostel views a rustic feel, has uphill from the square .com.ar; Belgrano 155; dm/d without bathroom AR$38/90; .com.ar; Belgrano 155; dm/d without bathroom AR$38/90; a private home with shared bathroom). They bathroom). home with shared a private a room spotless, and you get invariably are to yourself for around AR$20 to AR$30 per Lavalle 439) person. One is person. There are heaps of simple hostels; another hostels; simple heaps of are There option is a budget Pachamama Pachamama SLEEPING Santa worthwhile. is equally important as in other Quebrada is equally important as in other Quebrada as is April’s de Humahuaca villages, January’s January’s and cultural activities. February’s Tilcara celebrates several festivals dur- several celebrates festivals Tilcara is which ing the year, the most notable of FESTIVALS & EVENTS & EVENTS FESTIVALS area. Llamas are pack animals: you walk, they are Llamas area. carry the bags. Tilcara (AR$1750 to AR$2600). The guide AR$2600). The guide (AR$1750 to Tilcara the informed about and well is personable day trips in the Salinas Grandes (AR$180) day trips in the Salinas including a five- and multiday excursions, day marathon from Las to Yungas lowlands mended llama- trekking operator running operator running trekking mended llama- half-day (AR$140) around Tilcara, excursions Based in the Posada de Luz, ( TOURS TOURS everywhere, and most accommodations can everywhere, it for you. arrange numbers for for numbers (AR$8/40 per hour/day) and provides a help- hour/day) and provides (AR$8/40 per the area. trips in ful map of You’ll see a guide. ing with or without phone hires out well-maintained mountain bikes well-maintained out mountain bikes hires [email protected]; Belgrano s/n; Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book the hospital. friendly setup that just past the bus terminal THE ANDEAN NORTHWEST century carriage. impressively fierce swordsandafine19th- some ing exhibitsinclude leathersuitcases, Quiacarailwayopened. Theinterest-the La stop ontheroadto Boliviauntil1908,when independence, andremained animportant battlesduringthe wars important ofseveral Tilcara. Foundedin1772,itwasthe sceneof tifully restored post11kmsouthof staging de Hornillos Buenos Aires duringviceregal times, ifyoufancyovernighting.and placestostay while anthropologicalandhistoricalmuseum loved oneshere. Thetownalsohasaworth- respectfully; bearinmindthatlocalsburytheir withapicturesquesight backdrop.Take photos hillside cemetery isasurprisinganddifferent (Painter’s Palette) hill.Justoff themainroad,its andaptlynamedPaletaspectacular delPintor beneaththe set cal adobevalleysettlement The townof Around Tilcara utes) (AR$31,fourhours). and six toSalta dailytoPurmamarca(AR$3,30min- services Quiaca(AR$20,3½hours). There La are several north toHumahuaca(AR$3,45minutes) and 45 minutes toJujuy(AR$10,1¾hours), and town center. every roughly There are services The busterminal isabout 500msouthof the THERE&AWAYGETTING like andlocaltrout. cornlasagne but inventive menuof mostlylocalingredients andashort restaurant offers earnestservice Thu-Sun, dinnerWed-Sat) ( the clayoven, thatwinfriends. touches, such astinybread from rollsstraight becued llama(AR$24)isone–butit’ssmall Tasty regional specialtiesfeature heavily –bar- with itsdecorof localstoneandchunky wood. pipes atlunchtime –thismakes upground rendition of ‘Soundsof Silence’onthepan- we can’tguarantee youwon’tbetreated toa AR$16-40; from-the-madding-crowd atmosphere. inventive salads, tasty llamadishes andafar- Itoffersand gardenseating. awiderange of and thechurch, thishasalovely shadedpatio h 256 % Part of achain thatranfrom Limato Argentino delNorte Escuela Gastronómica Los Puestos El Patio lunch &dinner) 495-5264; Bolívar651;mainsAR$25-29; UU AT RVNE • Qerd eHmhaa JUJUY &SALTA ••QuebradadeHumahuaca PROVINCES h

(

(admission AR$3; % lunch &dinner)

( % Maimará Tucked theplaza awaybetween 495-5044; Lavalle352;mainsAR$15-36; 495-5100; cnrBelgrano&Padilla; meals This hospitality school Thishospitality Though alittletouristy– Though , 8kmsouth,isatypi- h 8am-6pm) isabeau- h La Posta lunch other office gives outfree. pamphletsthatthe young rascalsoutside sell isusuallyshut, but ist office onthe highway there’s alsoanATM onthis plaza. Thetour- rooms andrestaurant. plazas. Youcanfeel thenearbypunahere, blestoned streets, andquaint adobe houses its mosthandsome,withatmosphericcob- The Quebrada’slargest isalso settlement % Humahuaca AR$110/165/175; Uquía fine painted panels.Bythechurch, dry. There’s alsoagilt their trustinGodbutkeeping theirpowder gels) –features Gabriel,Urieletalputting ángeles arcabuceros collection of Cuzcoschool paintings– the & 2-4pm) century but inthisroadsidevillage’s fabulous17th- hosts armedwithmuzzle-loadingweapons, It’s notoften thatyouimaginetheheavenly % Uquía spots. or pickyouupatthese south alongtheQuebradawilldropyouoff pair of photo-hungryalpacas. sundial, the crosses Gómez s/n; The open untilmidnight. from theplazathathave internet accessand Martín, isnear thebusterminal. the church and town. Themainsquare, PlazaGómez,has themiddleof railwayrunsthrough disused andtheriver. thehighway is between The Humahuaca isvery compact.Thetowncenter Straddling theRíoGrandeeastof RN9, ORIENTATION &INFORMATION restaurants. sicians strumandsinginthemore popular handicrafts shopsaroundtown,andfolkmu- south, andisthebetter forit.There are good affected bytourismthanthetownsfurther Quechua population. Humahuaca feels less with chilly sparse airandaquiet nights, Some 15kmnorthof Tilcara, theroad There are twoplacesonCorrientes ablock Any of thefrequent runningnorth– buses 03887 / pop 7985 / elev 2989m 03887 /pop7985elev 2818m 03887 /pop525elev

( that’s just what you see. Arestored that’sjustwhatyousee. % church artesanía artesanía h 490508; [email protected]; s/tw/d 490508; [email protected]; Tropic ofCapricorn 10am-9pm Mon-Fri) a

(admission bydonation; ) cabildo; isaneatplacewithdecent (handcraft) offerings anda (arquebus-wielding an- retablo anotherplaza,San isinthe , marked byalarge tourist office tourist lonelyplanet.com (retable) with h 10am-noon Hostal de cabildo;

(Plaza THE ANDEAN NORTHWEST

257 ) Promesantes Run by warm- Just across the W Right in the heart 421055; lachurita@argentina Spacious rooms with 421228; www.hostallasoniada % ( % 421022; www.hosterianaty.com.ar;

(

421917; www.intisayanahostal.com This warm and attractive This warm and attractive % (

% (

(cnr Buenos Aires & Salta; mains AR$14-30; & Salta; mains AR$14-30; (cnr Buenos Aires

. The guitar-playing owner is helpful . The guitar-playing lunch & dinner) Naty Hostería Hostal La Soñada Inti Sayana Posada La Churita tracks from the center, this is run by a kindly this tracks from the center, spotless rooms with local couple and features good bathrooms. and colorful bedspreads is servedBreakfast common in the attractive welcome. very and guests feel area, & DRINKING EATING Casa Vieja and is hung with basketry corner restaurant .ar; La Rioja 83; s/d AR$90/110) at this pleasing surround a little courtyard hostal advice on what to and friendly, and can offer do around town. town, this has a friendly boss, photos of of nearby places you want to go to, and rooms and sizes at a fair price. varying shapes of is included. Breakfast .com; San Martín s/n; s/d AR$90/130; 800m across the river bridge, this curious, ap- this curious, bridge, across the river 800m quirky of has a variety adobe hostel pealing doubles and pretty with lockers, dorm rooms dorms cane ceilings. Some under traditional the than this place is more cramped, but are and use, its parts. Kitchen breakfast sum of and included, are taxi the bus terminal from HI discounts. there’s AR$45) 456; r per person .com; Buenos Aires a few and motherly Olga, this is one of hearted In theory, the on this street. cheapies unheated one may well get dorms, but you rooms are clean are bathrooms to yourself. The shared the use of Guests have reliable. and hot water with tables. and a common area kitchen h Buenos Aires 488; s/d AR$90/120) Buenos Aires decent beds – good for families and groups – decent beds – good for families , a Hasta is famous (bull) as the central participant. This tiny and remote adobe adobe (bull) as the central participant. tiny and remote This . Iglesia de la de la Iglesia toro cabildo rents out bikes. rents PROVINCES Humahuaca •• Quebrada De JUJUY & SALTA faces Plaza Gómez. Gómez. faces Plaza feature a feature 421466; www.posadaelsol.com.ar; 421659; Jujuy 221) , which is celebrated through- is celebrated , which % , is recommended for exciting , is recommended ( Virgen de Candelaria Monumento a la Independencia Monumento a

421075; www.hlmexpeditions.com.ar; Av Av 421075; www.hlmexpeditions.com.ar; a widespread tendency in Latin tendency a widespread ) In a peaceful location, signposted % (

Casabindo (Buenos Aires) % (

Carnaval village celebrates the Assumption on August 15 in style, and thousands make the journey 15 in style, and thousands make the journey on August the Assumption village celebrates

Casabindo is west of the Quebrada, accessible via a rough road beyond Purmamarca. Tour Tour is west of the Quebrada, accessible via a rough road beyond Purmamarca. Casabindo The bull’s horns are garlanded with a red sweatband that contains three silver coins. coins. silver sweatband that contains three garlanded with a red bull’s horns are The TOREO DE LA VINCHA TOREO DE LA VINCHA century – but the unusual – it was banned in the 19th You won’t see bullfighting in Argentina fiestas of puna operators in Jujuy ( p247 ) and Tilcara ( p255 ) run trips to the festival. p255 ( ) and Tilcara p247 operators in Jujuy ( (young men from the village) armed with only a red cloth then try to distract cloth then try the animal’s atten- (young men from the village) armed with only a red bull is The the coins to the Virgin. then offers successful torero tion and rob it of its crown. The in similar Spanish fiestas. has its origins festival unharmed. The to see the main event – man against beast in a duel of agility and wits. agility – man against beast in a duel of to see the main event Ser Andino Posada El Sol The organization of mountain guides, of The organization AR$180/116; midrange hotels. Prices given are for summer are Prices given hotels. midrange high season; they rise for Carnaval and drop the year. of for the rest Humahuaca, which keeps it real with cheap with cheap it real keeps Humahuaca, which family-run accommodations and a couple of SLEEPING SLEEPING boom hasn’t yet hit The boutique hotel Humahuaca observes February 2 as the day of Humahuaca observes of 2 as the day February its patron, the Besides Quebrada de Humahuaca in February, out the FESTIVALS & EVENTS & EVENTS FESTIVALS forest systems. They also offer sandboard- They also offer systems. forest and (AR$160 for the day) Pampa ing at Abra high-mountain excursions. vulgarity produced by local sculptor Ernesto by local sculptor vulgarity produced Baritú national parks, with a stunning change as you descend into the subtropical in terrain las Manos las Manos Ejército del Norte s/n) with mules to the Calilegua or multiday treks overwhelmed by colonialism. overwhelmed izingly extols the virtues of native cultures cultures native of izingly extols the virtues Soto Avendaño. The sculpture exemplifies exemplifies The sculpture Soto Avendaño. indigenismo, but patron- American art that romantically climbs to the climbs to the liver a benediction. From the plaza, a staircase From the plaza, a benediction. liver Nearby, the lovably knobbly lovably Nearby, the of figure a life-size tower, where for its clock at noon to de- Solano emerges San Francisco SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES & ACTIVITIES SIGHTS in 1641, Humahuaca’s Built Candelaria Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book Barrio Milagrosa d with/without bathroom s/n; dm AR$41, THE ANDEAN NORTHWEST sells fair-tradesells buses to Salta (AR$36,4½hours) toSalta andJujuy buses blocks southof theplaza. There are regular adobe houses and spectacular mountainscapes mountainscapes andspectacular adobe houses pretty yellow-and-blue church, streets, steep onions andbeans, andreaches Iruya,withits valley, where smallholders farm potatoes, from liquidofferings toPachamama. by travelers forluck).Theplasticbottles are (a cairnthataccumulates stonebystone,left boundary. Here, there’s amassive provincialpass thatmarkstheJujuy–Salta the Turning off RN9,26kmnorth of Humahuaca, the busybarreling highway. Quebrada deHumahuacaregion awayfrom and alsoallowsproperappreciation of the a great destinationtorelax forafew days, but aworldawayinotherrespects. Itmakes mote village just50kmfromthemainroad There’s something magicalabout Iruya, are- % Iruya Iruya (AR$14,three hours). three hours). There are to three dailybuses Quiaca(AR$15, (AR$13, 2¼hours), andtoLa The THERE&AWAYGETTING Near theplaza, has woolengoods,souvenirs andatmosphere. The handicraftsmarket, nearthetrainstation, SHOPPING real find. to bashoutlocalmusicuntilratherlate. A bar. Localsgatherintheattractive interior attheriverturn right toreach thisunsigned railway tracksfromthebusterminal and 8pm. There’ssauces. live from night musicevery llama inavarietyof rathersimilarcreamy and asimplemenu,which mostlyconsistsof thispopularrestauranttables, haspoorservice rated withcactus-woodfurniture andbooth mains AR$14-30; from9pm. nightly Portions are generous. There’s live music beanandquinoastew.dishes, andalsoatasty large simplellama dreamcatchers. Itserves 258 The roadthenwinds downintoanother The journeyisworththetripinitself. El Portillo Aisito 03887 / pop 1070 / elev 2780m 03887 /pop1070elev ripio ripio bus terminal UU AT RVNE • Qerd eHmhaa JUJUY &SALTA ••QuebradadeHumahuaca PROVINCES

(Arías s/n; road ascends to a spectacular 4000m road ascendstoaspectacular

( h % artesanía 8am-midnight)

h 424-9000; cnrTucumán &Corrientes; (cnr Belgrano&Entre Ríos) Manos Andinas Manos 10pm-late) . Attractively deco- Head acrossthe

(Buenos Aires 401) isthree apacheta

more upmarket option,justabove theplaza but noATM intown. opening hours are irregular. There’s abank of white rooms thetown,thisplacehaslight erico.com.ar; cnr San Martín &Salta;rperpersonAR$100) erico.com.ar; cnrSanMartín Juan and Tina serve delicioushome-style Juan andTina serve .ar; s/dAR$195/235,withviewAR$240/275) rooms have views. rooms surroundalittlecourtyard.Some at thebottomof town;pretty whitewashed private room). for money(AR$20toAR$30perperson ina firm thattheyare spotlessandoffer value ing thewealthisbesthere –butcancon- homes. Wewon’trecommend any–spread- There are manycheap inlocals’ placestostay SLEEPING &EATING AR$15 perperson. stargazing, musicandAndeanlegends for unusual andrecommended walkswith night ( other communitiesinthevalley. rounding hills–askforalocalguideorvisit periences here. You can alsohike inthesur- of mosttravelers’locals isthehighlight ex- respect iscalledfor. Chattingwiththefriendly community withfairlytraditionalvalues,so (with soaringcondors). It’sanindigenous entering Iruya. A parkingfee (AR$2)issometimes charged hitchhiking locals. –it’sagoodway tomeet due to rain.You’lloften villagerspassable see RN9.Insummer itoftenoff becomesim- hours). daily direct fromTilcara buses (AR$19, four leave three times daily;there are alsotwo fromHumahuaca(AR$14,threeBuses hours) THERE&AWAYGETTING atmosphere. dishesinacozytin-roofedmeat andsalad dishesAR$5-15; & SanMartín; localcuisine. At serve Note thatcredit cards are notaccepted. decent restaurant here (mainsAR$20AR$30). There’swindowed roomswithvalleyvistas. a views. It’sworththeextracashforbig- a picturesque stoneterrace withmemorable with widebeds,aspaciouscommonarea and % Hostería Iruya Hostería There is50kmof simple Several Federico III Federico Iruya hasa 0387-15-458-8417; [email protected])

( % tourist office tourist

( % Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels 03887-15-629152; www.complejofed comedores 482002; www.hosteriadeiruya.com ripio ripio Comedor Iruya h

(Calle SanMartín) road tonegotiate 10am-9pm) (basiccafeterias) Atthetop Pablo Harvey (cnr Lavalle

, genial runs , but A

THE ANDEAN NORTHWEST

) A 259 Frontera iWs bife de chor- and featuring and featuring (noodles with Nights can get a Nights get can Set back from the 423875; www.hostelco % artesanía ( 422269; cnr Belgrano & Árabe 422269; cnr Belgrano 422243; [email protected] 423924; www.munayhotel.jujuy

% ( %

% ( ( 422644; [email protected];422644; has meat plates, Spanish omelet has meat plates, % tallarines al pesto al pesto tallarines ( Across the tracks from the center, the tracks from the center, Across ) plus a set for AR$14. lunch , i (sirloin steak) with the works is AR$25, the (sirloin steak) 7am-7pm) Branches at the border, and at the southern at the southern the border, and Branches at 7am-7pm) Hotel de Turismo Hostería Munay If coming from Bolivia, things get better better If coming from Bolivia, things get Copacabana Hostel eating-wise a few hours down the road. The hours eating-wise a few bet; de Turismo is the best Hotel izo set AR$20. The down-home lunch (mains AR$11-21) and decent and a block up the street with the Banco de la and a block up the street small, place offers Nación on the corner, this rooms with shared pink rather sweet heated staff.bathroom and amiable .ar; cnr Árabe Siria & San Martín; s/d AR$95/140; hand- offers hotel good deal, this friendly very and rooms with parquet floors some heated best option in town. fine bathrooms. It’s the in and (but you can still drive pedestrian street option with cheery park), this is a reassuring with rooms decorated small bathrooms, big beds and heating. It’s for walk-ins. cheaper Tourist office Eating Sleeping & Hospedaje Frontera Siria; without bathroom AR$30/50) s/d a popular and proper behind clean rooms are hot have Bathrooms (shared) local restaurant. is welcoming. and management water, without bathroom 141; r per person Pellegrini pacabana.com.ar; AR$30; entrance to town. h pesto) .com; Belgrano 51; s/d AR$100/135) little chilly here, but the darkish, motel-style the darkish, motel-style but here, little chilly . At the time of research, US nationals needed US nationals needed the time of research, . At 24hr) h (

, a forlornly PROVINCES •• La Quiaca JUJUY & SALTA immigration Abra Pampa 9:30am-1:30pm & 4-7pm) Run h ( is 1.5km north of the border crossing – a taxi costs B$3 per person. There are four four are is 1.5km north per person. There of the border crossing – a taxi costs B$3

(Árabe Siria 445) Has an ATM.

At the time of writing the exchange rate for bolivianos was AR$1 to B$1.80 and US$1 to for bolivianos was AR$1 to B$1.80 and US$1 to the time of writing the exchange rate At (Automóvil Club Argentino; cnr Internacional & 03885 / pop 13,761 / elev/ pop 13,761 03885 3442m BOLIVIA VIA VILLAZÓN BOLIVIA VIA VILLAZÓN and Bolivia, walk, get a taxi or local bus to the bridge, Crossing from La Quiaca to Villazón, then walk across, clearing a visa, but citizens of the EU, UK, Canada, Australia, New Zealand and South Africa did not. did not. and South Africa New Zealand Australia, of the EU, UK, Canada, a visa, but citizens stalls and straight to cut-price promises, so head past the Bolivia is much nicer than Villazón by accommodation options are but reliable or train station. A couple of cheap the bus terminal (B$10, 2¼ hours), La Paz Buses head to Tupiza and the plaza if you need them. the bus terminal The (B$40, eight hours). Oruro and Tarija (B$80 to B$120, 20 hours) via Potosí (B$40, 10 hours), train station weekly train services to Tupiza (B$13 to B$51, three hours), Uyuni (B$36 to B$152, six hours) hours), Uyuni (B$36 to B$152, six hours) (B$13 to B$51, three weekly train services to Tupiza Bolivia is one hour for schedules. and Oruro (B$65 to B$230, 13 hours). Check www.fca.com.bo behind northern Argentina. B$6.90. La defunct train Quiaca is divided by its The road to La Quiaca is intriguing. After LA QUIACA by a hostel, this offers decent information opposite the by a hostel, this offers bus terminal. Bustamante) Maps and motorist services. Information kiosk ACA Banco Macro border or at the bus terminal. Call centers and Callborder or at the bus terminal. centers places abound in town. internet Change money on the Bolivian side of the Bolivian side of money on the Change Quiaca with Villazón, Bolivia. Information of town, a bridge across the river links La across the river town, a bridge of main routes. tracks; most services them. North west of are goats) that can survive ichu on the sparse vicuña off grass. Look for the endangered cal altiplano landscapes. Nightly frosts make Nightlycal altiplano landscapes. frosts make focus sub- so people precarious, agriculture effortssheep, (llamas, sistence on livestock windy town 90km north of Humahuaca, Humahuaca, of windy town 90km north and typi- and climbs through picturesque leaving the Quebrada de Humahuaca, paved the Quebrada de Humahuaca, paved leaving RN 9 passes through buildings recall more optimistic times. optimistic more buildings recall Nevertheless, it’s not seedy, and noble stone to Bolivia. It’s a cold, windy place that has has a cold, windy place that It’s to Bolivia. to staydecent places little to de- and eat, but tain terminus, Once a bustling railroad you. theseLa days is life sign of Quiaca’s main trudging betweenweary Bolivians the bor- bags. toting heavy der and the bus terminal Truly the end of the line, La Quiaca is 5171km the line, of Truly the end crossing point and a major Ushuaia, north of % Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book THE ANDEAN NORTHWEST for winter nights. wooden floors and rusticroomswithstoves cent meals(AR$30adish). rooms andaninformalatmosphere withde- eating area, whilelikeable aroundanadobe courtyard,andaprettyset a lovable library. niture, exhibitsonmore recent puna 222; dm/dAR$25/120) AR$20, dwith/withoutbathroom AR$80/50) dm 422316; [email protected]; cnrPérez &SanMartín; ( Yavi river, there are placestostay. several or accommodations. de Castilla petroglyphs at Colorados–torockpaintingsand Cerros Sat &Sun) (admission AR$3; out. translucent onyxwindowsalsostand but includingonefineFlemish original.The sculptures, mostlyfromtheCuzcoschool, and adornedwithexcellentpaintings in sober baroquestyle, covered ingoldleaf stunningaltarpieces century, itpreserves Built bythelocalmarquisinlate 17th the most fascinating innorthernArgentina. 9am-noon Sat&Sun,3-6pmMon) 3-6pm Tue-Fri, buildings. twofascinatingcolonial-era lage preserves romanticism of itsadobe streets, thevil- lazy hideaway.Apartfromthetumbledown than justifiesadetour,andisgreat little Quiacaviapaved16km eastof La RP5,more Picturesque, atmospheric,indigenous Yavi, % directly fromVillazón’sbusstation. to Bolivia,butafew Argentine leave buses mediate points.There isnotransportation Buenos Aires (AR$190,27hours) andinter- to five hours), hours), (AR$65,eight Salta frequent connectionstoJujuy(AR$35,four The chaotic &Away There Getting 260 Ruta 5;s/dAR$60/100) economy inthe18thcentury.Nowa familydominated theregionalnoble whose of aSpanishthe house themarquishimself, YAVI YAVI % Near Yavi are short walksinthe several Yavi’s As wellasagoodfree campgroundbythe Opposite, the 03887 / pop 207 / elev 3440m 03887 /pop207elev

03885-423235; www.pachamahosteria.net; cnrPérez & 03885-423235; www.pachamahosteria.net; ( % UU AT RVNE • Yv JUJUY &SALTA ••Yavi PROVINCES , itdisplaysbeautifullyrestored fur- 421659; www.hostaldejavi.blogspot.com;Güemes church . Ask fordirections atthemuseum bus terminal h

(admission bydonation; Las Cuevas 9am-1pm & 2-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm 9am-1pm &2-6pmMon-Fri, hasrathercharming rooms offers simple,comfortable Casa del Marqués Campero delMarqués Casa (cnr Belgrano&España)

ortospringsat La Casona Hostería Pachamá Hostería hasgnarled h is perhaps

( 9am-noon & %

Hostal de life and museum 03885- has Agua was

buses dailytoRinconada,westofbuses thelake, a longwayfromtheflamingoes. lars asyou’lllikely inanyevent, findyourself April andlowestinNovember. Take binocu- ing onthewater which levels, are in highest not; youmayhave towalkup3kmdepend- north toaparkinglotnearthelakeshore. Or of thelake. Fromnearhere, a7kmroadheads impassable. the mainhighway mer rainscanmake theunpaved routes off of drinkingwater. aware thatheavy Be sum- and La Quiaca. Make sure youalsotake plenty Abra Pampa, Humahuaca midwaybetween fuel up:there isnogasolineavailable beyond hereabouts. 4000m. There’s alsoalarge vicuña population atanaltitudeof wetlandhabitat nearly tant ren shores of this160-sq-kmlake, animpor- and manyotherbirdsbreed alongthebar- ducks,threeCoots, geese, speciesof flamingo LOS POZUELOS MONUMENTO NATURAL LAGUNADE it’sAR$25orsoinataxi. that. Otherwise, frequent 6amand8ambutslowerafter between Municipal onHipólitoYrigoyen;departures are utes) runtoYavi Quiaca’sMercado fromLa in Argentina. more colonialarchitecture thanmostplaces vibeoffortable asmallerplace andpreserves the facilitiesof alarge town,retains thecom- música candles withitsplaza-sidecafes andthelive romantic and lighting museums, outstanding engagingactive mindswithits sion of services, psychesers, withitsprofu- smoothingruffled Sophisticated isafavoriteSalta of manytravel- % SALTA over thehillstoPozuelos village. Quiaca,where aroadmakesLa itswaywest AbraIntermedia, halfwaybetween Pampa and QuiacawestviaCieneguillas;andfromLa La lake: fromjustnorthof Abra Pampa; from basic infrastructure, attheranger station. sites,lake. with ispossibleonexposed Camping butyou’llhavestation, towalkfromthere tothe request, the buswilldropyouoffattheranger where there are simpleaccommodations.On From Abra Pampa there are midmorning There’s aranger atRíoCincel,south station option,but A caristhebesttransportation Shared andpickups(AR$5,20min- taxis There are three mainaccessroutes tothe 0387 / pop 468,583 / elev 1187m 0387 /pop468,583elev

folklórica of itspopular lonelyplanet.com peñas . Itoffers THE ANDEAN NORTHWEST 261 11am- h 8am-3pm 431-2683; h % 9am-9pm) Efficient 431-0551; cnr Rivada- (APN; 8am-9pm Mon-Fri, 431-0950; www.turismo 437-3340; www h % 432-0445; Tobías 69) 432-0445; Tobías 437-0499; www.maam.org h % % % ( ( % ( (

has a serious and informative has a serious and informative MAAM (B Mitre checks 101) Changes traveler’s (Deán Funes 140) (Deán Funes (cnr España & Balcarce) Changes euros and US (cnr España & Balcarce) Changes (Santiago del Estero 363; service del Estero 363; (Santiago AR$15) wash (Automóvil Club Argentino; Club Argentino; (Automóvil The centerpiece of the display is the mum- of The centerpiece Mon-Fri) On the 3rd floor of the Aduana building, it offers national excellent information and advice on the region’s Contact remote parks. going to the more this place before parks such as El Rey or Baritú. www.parquesnacionales.gov.ar; España 366; www.parquesnacionales.gov.ar; via & B Mitre) Road maps and route advice. particular, the child sacrifices the Inca left on particular, the child the Andes’ most imposing peaks (seesome of ). p264 text, boxed (ro- children the three one of mified body of at the peak discovered every six months) tated TRAVEL AGENCIES AGENCIES TRAVEL along Buenos numerous agencies are There between CaserosAires, and Alvarado, and all that can book airfares around the town center for tour operators. p265 Seeand bus tickets. Sights MUSEO DE ARQUEOLOGÍA DE ALTA (MAAM) MONTAÑA museum in northern the premier Perhaps Argentina, .ar; B Mitre AR$10/30, 77; Argentines/foreigners 7.30pm Tue-Sun) and, in exhibition focusing on Inca culture POST POST Post office TOURIST INFORMATION ACA Municipal tourist office Administration National Parks Provincial tourist office LAUNDRY LAUNDRY Laverap a (dearer) accommodations also have One of many. Most service. MEDICAL SERVICES Bernardo Hospital San MONEY Cambio Dinar (high commission) and cash. Citibank multilingual staff. .saltalalinda.gov.ar; Caseros 711; .saltalalinda.gov.ar; dollars, and has a high ATM withdrawal limit. dollars, and has a high ATM salta.gov.ar; Buenos Aires 93; Buenos Aires salta.gov.ar; 9am-8pm Sat & Sun) Top marks – friendly, efficient and multilingual. Ask staff about the condition of the roads if car. heading out in a rental

Telecentro 7am-2pm . h 10am-11pm) 431-8456; Caseros 362) h % (

421-0359; Buenos Aires 83) Large 421-0359; Buenos Aires PROVINCES •• Salta JUJUY & SALTA 422-0438; Maipú 35;

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It’s the most touristed spot in northwest spot in most touristed It’s the Orientation Mon-Fri) Twelve blocks west of the plaza, near Caseros. Decent selectionbooks, mostly classics. of English selection. (Alvarado 766; per hr AR$3; centers dotted throughout the town center. throughout dotted the town center. centers One central option for both is INTERNET ACCESS & TELEPHONE & TELEPHONE INTERNET ACCESS and call cafes internet dozens of are There Migraciones IMMIGRATION IMMIGRATION Librería San Francisco Feria del Libro Information Information BOOKSTORES the town. de Febrero and Cerro San Bernardo overlook de Febrero of central Plaza 9 de Julio. North–south North–south central Plaza 9 de Julio. of of their names on either side change streets east–west streets the plaza, but the names of Cerro the center, continuous. East 20 of are Although Salta has sprawled considerably, Although Salta sprawled considerably, has blocks within a few are interest most points of of work, fleeingconditions in the economic of rural areas. cline. In recent years, growth has been rapid as years, In recent cline. in search settled here numerous families have food. When the extension of the Belgrano of food. When the extension sugar to to market railroad made it feasible the pampas, the city the immigrant cities of slightly from its 19th-century de- recovered not possible to grow in the frigid Bolivian the frigid Bolivian not possible to grow in industry cre- the mining highlands, where enormous demand for hides, mules and ated could pasture their animals in the surround- could pasture crops that it was ing countryside and produce rounded by verdant peaks. This valley’s per- rounded by verdant the Spaniards, who petual spring attracted Founded in 1582, Salta lies in a basin sur- for a better life in the big city. life for a better History province and Bolivia searching, often in vain, in vain, and Bolivia searching, often province there’s a poorer Salta readily visible if you ven- visible Salta readily a poorer there’s a large city’s outskirts, with toward the ture farmfolk from the indigenous of population organized for onward travel. Nevertheless, Nevertheless, for onward travel. organized Argentina, and has numerous accommoda- has numerous and Argentina, travel bristles with The center tion options. things get this is the place to and tour agents: lonelyplanet.com THE ANDEAN NORTHWEST 262 0500m

SALTA 00.25miles ‚ JUJUY &SALTA ••Salta PROVINCES A B Estación C To Jujuy D E F r" (90km) Ferrocarril Ameghino Belgrano 48 ?"59 i"29 Av Belgrano @" @" 333333 51 1 25 64 S" À" 17 3#2 <" !0 @" # 68 #H12 A Alsina 54 España 22 S" s To Norte Trekking (3km) S" 23 e ‚ ón Plaza n

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berd 4 Mendoza Fl l s San A i"37 Martín Aire nción 7" Av Ciudad de Asu as nos ri To Camping Municipal Carlos San 53 70 J A Xamena (4km); Airport (9km); Juan To Hostel Salta @" r F Bue D Sayta (40km); por Siempre (200m); 333333To Portazuelo San Antonio de los Cobres French Consulate (300m); Abraham Co 41 Restaurant

San Luis rnejo i" ‚ (168km); Cafayate (186km) Backpacker's Home (400m) ‚ 6 6666‚ 66 (500m) 333333 THE ANDEAN NORTHWEST E4 B4 B3 C2 C4 C1 C1 C1 C4 C1 A4 A4 D1 D1 D2 D3 D2 D2 D2 422- 263 is a Museo Museo 66 68 69 70 71 53 54 55 56 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 57 65 67 % (

the the À museum cabildo, ? 421-5340; Caseros 549; admis- 9am-6pm Tue-Fri, Sat 9am-1:30pm % ( 10am-1pm & 4-8pm Mon-Sat) h Balderrama...... Argentinas...... Empanada...... Peña Boliche Teatro Provincial...... TRANSPORT Aerolíneas Aerosur...... (see 26) AndarSalta ...... (see 26) Andes...... Asís ...... Bus Terminal...... Europcar ...... LAN...... (see 26) Noa...... (see 40) La Céfira...... La Leñita ...... Mercado Central ...... New Time Café ...... Patio de la Viejo Jack...... DRINKING Macondo ...... Plaza de Almas...... ENTERTAINMENT Casa de Cultura ...... Cine Ópera...... La Casa de Güemes...... La Vieja Estación ...... h B4 B3 B2 B3 B3 C2 C2 C1 C3 C4 C4 C4 C2 C2 C2 C4 C2 C1 C2 C1 D2 D4 D2 D1 D3 D2 D3 healers and finely crafted Mapuche Mapuche and finely crafted healers 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 has a collection that ranges from pre- has a collection that ranges PAJCHA – MUSEO DE ARTE ÉTNICO – MUSEO DE ARTE ÉTNICO PAJCHA & Sun) Set on the plaza in the Histórico del Norte Sun; sion AR$3, free admission AR$10; art in indigenous must-see interested if you’re rooms presented Six exquisitely and culture. artisanal and recent contemporary present Latin The quality America. work from all over include amazing macaw- the pieces (which of from the sculpture religious creations, feather Bolivian the trade of tools of Cuzco school, kallawaya jewelry) is extraordinarily high, testa- silver study and collection by ment to decades of It’s an exquisite the anthropologist founder. color and beauty, and run with great dose of enthusiasm by the English-speaking manage- you a worthwhile guided ment, who will give tour for an extra AR$15. MUSEO HISTÓRICO DEL NORTE This eye-opening private This eye-opening private 838; 9417; www.museodearteetnico.com.ar; 20 de Febrero AMERICANO AMERICANO Columbian ceramics through to colonial-era the (admire painting and sculpture religious

illas i @ Convento...... Hotel Salta...... Inti Huasi...... Marilian Hotel...... Munay Hotel...... Provincial Plaza...... Residencial Balcarce...... Residencial Elena ...... EATING Bio's Diet...... Café del Tiempo ...... El Solar del Convento ...... Entre Indyas...... José Balcarce ...... Jovi II ...... Salta Rafting...... Tastil...... Turismo La Posada...... SLEEPING Aldaba Hotel...... Alejandro I...... Bloomers B&B...... Bonarda Boutique Hotel...... Carpe Diem...... Correcaminos...... Design Suites...... Hostal El Alcázar...... Hostel Terra Oculta...... Hotel Candela...... Hotel del Antiguo E2 E2 B3 B3 B2 B1 C2 C3 C1 C3 C3 C2 C2 C2 C1 C1 D3 D2 D2 D2 D2 D3 D4 D1 D1 5 6 7 8 9 1 2 3 4 24 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 10 11 13 14 25 22 23 12 PROVINCES •• Salta JUJUY & SALTA The grave goods that accompanied the chil- The grave Étnico Americano ...... Alta Montaña (MAAM) ...... Contemporáneo (MAC) ...... Administration...... Museo Histórico del Norte...... Pajcha - Museo de Arte Museo de Arte Museo Antropológico...... Museo de Arqueología de Convento de San Bernardo...... Güemes Monument...... Iglesia San Francisco...... Bien Argentino...... Catedral...... Telecentro...... SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Post Office...... Provincial Tourist Office...... Municipal Tourist Office...... National Parks Italian Consulate...... Laverap...... Librería San Francisco...... Citibank ...... Feria del Libro...... Hospital San Bernardo...... Cambio Dinar...... Chilean Consulate...... INFORMATION ACA ...... Bolivian Consulate...... temperature can be pretty chilly for the rest of of for the rest chilly can be pretty temperature a library as well as a good cafe-bar us. There’s and wi-fi. with terrace reproduced on laminated sheets in various lan- sheets on laminated reproduced comfortable mummy a jacket: Take guages. clothed in textiles. It’s difficult It’s clothed in textiles. to imagine that a South look at pre-Columbian privileged more us. Also will ever be offered American culture Cerro,’ is the ‘Reina del exhibited a mummy robbed from an Inca tomb in the 1920s that a turbulent history. after finally ended up here background informa- Some good videos give the mummies and the expedition.tion about the museum’s panels are information Most of (small votive figurines of animals and humans) figurines of (small votive and onyx, and many are gold, shell silver, of are dren impress by their immediacy, with colors impress dren produced. The as the day they were as fresh passing or a tortured death. You decide. passing or a tortured and clothes are perfectly preserved, perfectly and their and clothes are – who knows? – a distant past or faces reflect a typical 21st-century Salta face; a peaceful to-face with them. The intricately plaited hair plaited intricately with them. The to-face was a controversial decision to display the decision to display the was a controversial may choose to view or not) bodies (visitors and it is a powerful experience to come face- of Llullaillaco during the 1999 expedition. It Llullaillaco of lonelyplanet.com THE ANDEAN NORTHWEST & 4:30-8pm) Martín MigueldeGüemes, a the ashesof General (among other notables) pink Salta’s CATEDRAL regularly andare usuallyof quality. high lit andexpertlycurated. change Exhibitions iswell and thewiderworld.Thespaceitself aswellother partsoffrom Salta, Argentina has ondisplaytheworkof contemporary artists Zuviría 90;admissionAR$2; The MUSEO DEARTECONTEMPORÁNEO overlooking theplaza,islovely. withcobbled patioandgallery building itself, Renault thatputsanyHummertoshame. The children’s funerals andanenormous1911 for used collection includesasomberhearse whilethetransportation museum, moustache nors wouldn’tbeoutof place inabeard-and- ofThe endless series portraitsof gover- Salta’s inthe19thand20thcenturies. plays onSalta Jesuitfine pulpitfromSalta’s church), anddis- 264 ing glimpseofIncareligion andculture. Whatever yourfeelings onthem,andtheroleofarchaeology,theyoffer anundeniablyfascinat- they were discovered, butthis,oncethelocationwasknown,wouldhave beenimpossible. goods), whichincludedtextiles andsmallfigurinesofhumanoidscamelids. families. Theycame fromhigh-ranking were accompaniedeachbyan to seven (thegirl had cranialdeformationsthatindicated damagedbyalightningstrike), they ‘virgin ofthesun’),aprestigious roleinIncasociety.The othertwo,aboyandgirl bothagedsix The Doncella(Maiden)wasabout15atthetimeofdeath,andperhapsan perfectly. The cold,lowpressure andlackofoxygen andbacteria helped topreserve thebodiesalmost 480km westofSalta,ontheChileanborder. It’sthehighestknownarchaeological site intheworld. sleep,presumablythe mountainandentombedintheirdrunken never toawaken. made fromfermented maize) intothemountains.then taken They were fed, andgiven quantitiesof months.an arduousjourneythatcouldtake Oncehome,theywere feted andwelcomed, fiesta, theywere paradedtwicearoundtheplaza,andthenhadtoreturn homeinastraightline– them helpedtocementdiplomaticlinksbetweentribesacrosstheIncaempire. At theendof they were thecenterpieces ofalarge celebration–the watched over thecommunitiesfromhighestpeaks. The Incafelt thatthechildren didn’tdieassuch,butwere reunited withtheir forefathers, who Cordillera delosAndeswere alwaysconsidered sacred, andwere chosenassites forthesacrifices. an offering toensure oftheirpeopleandtheland.The thecontinuedfertility highpeaksofthe time offered thelives ofhigh-bornchildren topleaseorappeasetheirgods. The Incasawthisas The thattheIncaculture phrase‘humansacrifice’issensationalist,butitafact fromtimeto THE CHILDRENGIVENTOMOUNTAIN Museo de Arte Contemporáneo deArte Museo UU AT RVNE • Sla JUJUY &SALTA ••Salta PROVINCES The mummies’transfer toSaltawascontroversial. Manyfelt theyshouldhave beenleftwhere Three suchchildren were foundin1999nearthepeakof The children, carefully selected fortherole,were totheceremonial taken capitalofCuzco, where was consecrated in1878andharbors wasconsecrated catedral (cnr España & B Mitre; (cnr España&BMitre;

h 9am-8pm Tue-Sat, 4-8pm Sun)

to drink. Whentheypassedout,were uptothepeakofto drink. taken (MAC; salteño % h 437-0498; 437-0498; 7am-noon (resi-

today, thegauchos of province Salta proudly dent of andindependencehero;even Salta) visitors canapproach theblindingly white- de SanBernardo Convento nuns mayenterOnly Carmelite 16th-century CONVENTO DESAN BERNARDO ofmuseum religious artandtreasures. nation appropriate) thattakes inamediocre tour (which runondemandinSpanish;do- lovely viaguided gardencloister, accessed a ratherspookycrownedfigure. There’s a here, includingtheNiñoJesús deAracoeli, There are much-venerated several images ornately painted toresemble stucco-work. by aslendertower;inside,thesinglenave is landmark. Theexuberantfacadeistopped h yellow Two blockseastof theplaza,magenta-and- IGLESIA SANFRANCISCO istheothercentralfeature.altarpiece baroque ponchos). Thehigh (traditional Salta flaunt theirred-striped 7:30am-noon &5-9pm) capacocha Iglesia SanFrancisco Llullaillaco . Ceremonial marriagesbetween ajuar chicha , a6739mvolcanosome is Salta’s moststriking isSalta’s (a selection ofgrave (aselection (cnr Caseros&SantaFe)

(an alcoholicdrink ponchos de güemes

(cnr Caseros&Córdoba; lonelyplanet.com aclla , but (a THE ANDEAN NORTHWEST 265 One ) s 423-1341; Av 423-1341; Av (barbecue % (

asado route; AR$190), Salinas AR$190), route; 497-1024; www.clarkexpe 421-6544; www.turismola 436-1844; www.nortetrekking % % 40km from Salta runs excellent ( 421-4114; www.saltarafting.com; ( % ( % ( estancia 0387-15-683-6565; www.sayta.com.ar; 0387-15-683-6565; www.sayta.com.ar; 431-1223; www.turismotastil.com.ar; Caseros la Posada

% % ( ( Tren a las Nubes Some operators: diciones.com) Professional agency offering trips Professional with highly diciones.com) competent English-speaking national guides to the region’s bird- serious They’re about uplands. parks and remote watching; tripsa half/full day in the Reserva include Huaico Nacional El Rey (US$340) (US$70/140), two days to Parque itineraries. Book well ahead.and multiday tailored of Argentina’s best campgrounds, this has best campgrounds, this has Argentina’s of a week(it takes pool and a huge sites 500 tent Take to fill). It’s typically loud in summer. bus 3B from Ituzaingó between San Martín near a supermarket There’s and Mendoza. the campground. Tastil Turismo Sleeping BUDGET Camping Municipal Carlos Xamena Norte Trekking Salta Rafting Sayta popular trips head to Cafayate (AR$120), to Cafayate trips head popular (AR$120), Cachi los Cobres Antonio de San (AR$140), (the and Humahuaca (AR$150). Grandes (AR$290) riding, horseback Several offer operators rafting and also available. kayaking; hiking are climbing and paragliding, abseiling, Clark Expediciones posada.com.ar; Buenos Aires 94) This multilingual company Buenos Aires posada.com.ar; has a good variety of trips, horseback riding, and offers hiking and rafting. Buenos Aires 88) Runs two-hourBuenos Aires white-water rafting trips from Salta (AR$150 on the Class III Río Juramento, 100km including a barbecue lunch; transportation Salta to/from AR$60 extra). spectacular At the same location are 400m ziplines across a canyon (four-/nine-line trip AR$120/180). mountain-biking excursions. Also runs 468) One of the operators with a variety of day trips Some use a characterfuland multiday excursions. but pricey open truck (MoviTrack), while cheaper ones go in a minibus. .com; Libertador 1151, Barrioof four Grand Bourg) One Nacional tripsagencies specifically approved for to Parque El Rey, it runs various multiday hikes, with some guaran- teed departure on its website. dates listed Chicona) This horseback-riding days, with optional grill). It’s also a place you can stay to experience a taste of lunch costs A half-day with/without Argentine gaucho life. AR$170/125, and full-board accommodation for a night is AR$230 (with a day’s riding AR$345). Pricesinclude from Salta. transfers Libano; campsites per person/tent AR$3.20/4.80; 431- from % 0387-15- (cafe of-(cafe shops. %

( . It has good 422-2960; www.an 8am-noon & 2-6pm) 10am-7pm) (cable car;

PROVINCES •• Salta JUJUY & SALTA confitería %

h ( h artesanía teleférico (city hall) and it’s a 1km is one operator. 0387-15-475-8679; www.bien-argen cloud forest reserve % (

Museo Antropológico 9am-7pm Mon-Fri, Sat) 10am-6pm municipalidad

h Just above the Güemes monument, on the Just above

tours (AR$60) and excursions in the Salta in the Salta (AR$60) and excursions tours on Buenos agencies the travel try any of area, Other between CaserosAires, and Alvarado. Salta is the base for a range of innovative innovative Salta of is the base for a range companies. For city by many offered tours, Tours Tours Salta appeals as a spot for a Spanish course. Spanish course. Salta appeals as a spot for a Bien Argentino Courses Courses at the to the reserve. Moreno walk along Mariano including guans, tanagers, parrots, humming- including guans, tanagers, A taxi – all common. birds and woodpeckers any from Salta costs AR$20, or you can get bus (AR$1.25). Get off San Lorenzo–bound by appointment only and includes a four-hour by appointment only and includes a four-hour guided walk along the reserve’s trails. 15km of bird-watching the Salta’s proximity, Despite than 205 spe- is extraordinarily good: more those – with 100 of been recorded, cies have is in San Lorenzo, 8km west of Salta, and run 8km west of is in San Lorenzo, foundation. Entry is nature by a not-for-profit 489-0118; www.reservadelhuaico.com.ar; Mariano s/n, Moreno 4hr guided tour AR$60; San Lorenzo; RESERVA DEL HUAICO DEL HUAICO RESERVA This 60-hectare from the Tastil ruins (Argentina’s largest pre- largest ruins (Argentina’s from the Tastil displays Inca town), and some well-designed spaces. purpose-built in its attractive, AR$3; local ceramics, especially of representations lower slopes of Cerrolower slopes of San Bernardo, is the friendly cnr Ejército del Nortetropologico.com.ar; & Polo Sur; admission views, a watercourse and views, a watercourse of Paseo Güemes. Atop is a Paseo of light meals), whose has the best fering terrace For outstanding views of SaltaFor outstanding its sur- and views of the take roundings, CERRO SAN BERNARDO BERNARDO CERRO SAN door. The church, too, is open for visits be- too, is open for visits church, The door. early weekday mornings, Saturday Mass fore evenings mornings. and Sunday washed adobe building (consider sunglasses) (consider adobe building washed the carved,to admire algarrobo 18th-century Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book tino.com.ar; Pje Zorrilla 239) tino.com.ar; 0641; one way/roundtrip AR$10/20; Parque San Martín to the top of Cerro to the top of San San Martín Parque hill you up the A trail that takes Bernardo. at the top begins at the Güemes monument THE ANDEAN NORTHWEST this value-packed place. Inmanyways,it’sa alargea smallentrancedisguises interior at longtime Spanishowners keep it shipshape. on abusycentralstreet, it’svery quiet, andthe location notfarsouth of theplaza. it’s Though a charming interior patio,thishasachoice AR$80/130; HI discountsapply. pool area. includebreakfast Rates anddinner. hostel appealsforthegreat backyardbarand so fromthecenter, butthisinstant-social-life ers bythetimeyou’ve walked thekilometer or Souvenir shopshave given waytopanelbeat- erssalta.com; BuenosAires 930;dm/dAR$52/170; attractive shared spaces.Breakfast isincluded. have beds,others bunks–aproperkitchen and colorful roomswithbathroom–somedorms and handsomebuildinghasglisteningly clean trudge tothissuper-friendly hostel. Thequiet blockssouthofIt’s eight theplaza,butworth aporsiempre.com.ar; Tucumán 464;dm/dAR$40/120; go loudandlate. excellent rooftop bar,where theactioncan fromthe dormswellseparated comfortable hasitslight, an upbeathostel thatsensibly center, thislaid-back, labyrinthine spotis located thebusterminal between andtown .com; Córdoba361;dm/dAR$35/80; makelevels itasoundchoice. hygiene patioandhigh ice, grapevine-shaded with decentbathrooms,butthefriendlyserv- standard bathroom AR$60/100) carce.com.ar; Balcarce460;s/dwithoutbathroomAR$35/60,with dorms, butwithoutthecourtyardspace. a more modernkitchen andfewer bedsinthe appealing. Itrunsanotherhostel opposite, with mer, butthelocationandlaid-back vibeare Dorms are insum- spaciousifalittlestuffy barandpooltable. that boastsawell-used ‘Roadrunner’ isacheap-and-cheerful hostel Vicente López353;dm/dwithoutbathroomAR$33/90; you feel like you’re crashing atamate’s place. area. Dormsare and spacious and comfortable, socializing inthegoodkitchen andgrassypatio a really appealingatmosphere, withplentyof stroll fromthebusterminal, thishostel has Cornejo120;dm/dAR$30/90; Abraham 266 Backpacker’s Home Backpacker’s SaltaporSiempre Hostel Balcarce Residencial Correcaminos Inti Huasi Residencial Elena Residencial Hostel UU AT RVNE • Sla JUJUY &SALTA ••Salta PROVINCES

W Terra Oculta residencial,

( ) Set inaneocolonial building with Set %

431-0167; www.intihuasihostel.com.ar; 431-0167; www.intihuasihostel.com.ar; ( Justsouthof PlazaGüemes, %

( % 422-0731; www.saltahostel.com; 422-0731; www.saltahostel.com; (

% ( with unadorned rooms withunadornedrooms ( % % 421-1529; BuenosAires 256;s/d 431-8135; www.residencialbal 421-8769; www.terraoculta

423-5910; www.backpack ( % iW 423-3230; www.salt iW ) Handily A short Ashort ) iWs iW iW

) ) ) central, thisoffers cleanprivate roomswith decorated withrestrained modernelegance, and tranquil.Runwithapersonal touch, it’s six-room placeisnevertheless superblyquiet from the .com; Balcarce81;s/dAR$90/125; Mitre 910;s/dAR$170/260; Mitre is outdoors, ontheroof. upthebuildingwithviews.Thepool higher spacious; superiorandexecutive roomsare more expensive thandoubles,butalotmore more thanfairforthequality.Twinroomsare at thiscentralfour-star option,butthepriceis ratherthanspectacular Rooms are serviceable .ar; Caseros786;s/d/twAR$160/185/250; Plaza Provincial MIDRANGE to bookahead. andbreakfastshower curtains –thisisone you,well-furnished andcleanbedrooms, see whoare to pleased a handylocation,staff every thing youcould wantinabudget hotel – 656;s/dAR$100/135; .com; Av SanMartín prices. friendly attitude. It’sadecentdealatSalta (eg agoodkitchen) andalaid-back traveler- bathroom butalsohashostel-like facilities ing aduplex apartmentout theback.Different rooms,includ- good facilitiesand comfortable ertheless centraland features excellentstaff, shaped pooland grassy garden,thisisnev- Decked outlike acountry villawithanL- .com.ar; Pueyrredón 346;dAR$215-330; our friendshave aplace thispretty. feel like aguestinfriend’shome,butfew of pany andlaissez-faire environment makes you different Thegoodcom- andalldelightful. good things.Thecolor-themed roomsare all untilnoonandreplete with brunch, served Bhere for The second guesthouse. stands sitely stylish yetrelaxed andcomfortable you get oneof thefive roomsatthisexqui- be,butmakeCommandments ifneed sure 270; ers-salta.com.ar; VicenteLópez129;sAR$200,dAR$240- new onesonthegroundfloor. (but notprice);there are planstoaddafew Roomsvarywidelyinsize friendly service. and boastssuper-comfortable bedsand Munay Hotel Munay Hotel Candela Hotel o Aldaba Hotel Hostal ElAlcázar aiW peña Bloomers B&B )

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Break anyorallof theTen ( % ( % action of Calle Balcarce, this action of Balcarce, Calle

% Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels ( % ( 432-2000; www.provincialplaza.com %

421-9455; www.aldabahotel.com; B 421-9455; www.aldabahotel.com; 422-4936; www.munayhotel.jujuy 422-4473; www.hotellacandela aiW 422-3800; www.hostalelalcazar

( % iW 422-7449; www.bloom ) Ablockaway aiWs ) Reliableand aiWs W ) With )

) THE ANDEAN NORTHWEST

) 267 This aiWs This mostly veg- Caseros 602; snacks AR$8-

This handsomely (stuffed corn dough) (cnr San Martín & Islas Malvinas;

431-6461; 01-15-199-7465; www.designsuites 01-15-199-7465; (cnr Florida & Av San Martín) San (cnr Florida & Av

% %

( A long terrace overlooking overlooking A long terrace 421-5771; Santiago del Estero 496; dishes , where various stalls surround , where ( 421-4922; Córdoba 481; pasta AR$16-29; . The taxi drivers’ favorite is is favorite . The taxi drivers’ humitas In the race for the accolade of In the race for the accolade of 432-9438; Balcarce 601; mains AR$15-30; % % ( (

lunch & dinner Mon-Sat) % ( peñas

Cerro San Bernardo and cathedral, h 8am-late) Design SuitesDesign lunch & dinner) lunch Fri-Sun, dinner Tue-Sat) 10am-midnight) h La Céfira Mercado Central Bio’s Diet New Time Café New Time Jovi II tasty fish and a succulent plate of the day are the day are of plate and a succulent tasty fish excellent service. up by backed h blocks south styled dining room a few the usual is a cut far above the center of etarian little restaurant mostly functions as etarian little restaurant wooden ta- simple but has a few a take-out, displayed at the glass are bles. Daily dishes counter. 19; this two-level corner Salta’s best plaza cafe, shady It offers spot wins by several lengths. the views of tables, great (in the afternoon) cabildo, It also servesand wi-fi. and food, though coffee music some nights. Live it isn’t the cheapest. h Plaza Güemes is just one reason the palms of that does this popular local restaurant to like well, without frills and dishes of range a huge portions. Severalin generous dishes, rabbit wickedly toothsome in both places. Locals in both places. Locals toothsome wickedly fried (in an iron skillet – the merits of debate – tastier). (in a clay oven juicier) or baked in them, includ- Numerous places specialize ing the de la Empanada Patio h will a dozen eating area; an indoor-outdoor set you back AR$15. panadas and fruit and vegetables. with fresh .com; Belgrano 770; r/ste AR$648/733; AR$648/733; 770; r/ste .com; Belgrano this whether the look of sure not 100% We’re and urban-trendy place – all exposed concrete Salta, as in a colonial city such design – works The space. attractive but it’s an undeniably floor-to-ceiling rooms have excellent, quiet pool and Jacuzzi the rooftop windows, and memorable nighttime views of space offers town. Service is willing. Eating It’s a toss-up between Salta and Tucumán best empanadas, but they’re for Argentina’s AR$8-16; large, lively market is very interesting, as well interesting, is very market lively large, places to eat in town. the cheapest as one of pizza, em- You can supplement inexpensive )

) ) (old) or (old) or aW aiWs 422-7267; www.ho There’s a real a real There’s aiW ) PROVINCES •• Salta JUJUY & SALTA %

antiguo ( i 421-5786; www.hotel % ( 421-6700; www.hotelmarilian.com 426-7500; www.hotelsalta.com; Buenos 426-7500; www.hotelsalta.com; 421-8736; www.carpediemsalta.com 400-0000; www.alejandro1hotel.com.ar; % Astronauts, cosmonauts or cosmonauts or Astronauts, You pay extra for location here You pay extra for location here ) % ( ) % % (

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Also recommended: Alejandro I Hotel Salta Hotel Convento del Antiguo Some parts of this not-quite-convincing ‘boutique’ hotel attractive;are like others feel they’ve been done on onto a spacious interiorthe cheap. Rooms open inward courtyard; airier some are than others. bright this hotel offers Nestled among the tour agencies, white-tiledand pretty and rooms with hanging headrests small but new bathrooms. bonarda.com; Urquiza 427; s/d AR$170/225; Urquiza 427; s/d AR$170/225; bonarda.com; .ar; Buenos Aires 176; s/d AR$200/250; 176; s/d AR$200/250; .ar; Buenos Aires move higher up the building. The restaurant higher up the building. The restaurant move and service is swift is reader-recommended, and efficient. from the whole city. The rooms are slick and from the whole city. The rooms are as you pricier and larger modern, and get whether Salta’s most upmarket hotel is visible is hotel whether Salta’s most upmarket or worse, from orbit – it certainly is, for better Balcarce 252; r standard/superior/executive AR$415/478/550; aiWs and Cerro San Bernardo. Superior rooms are and Cerro Superior rooms are San Bernardo. than the compact standards,bigger and have bathtubs. excellent, but the rooms are a tad disappoint- excellent, but the rooms are the church one with a view of ing. Try to grab tional hotel. Facilities are good and service are Facilities tional hotel. aiWs Aires 1; s/d standard AR$248/350, s/d superiorAires AR$339/430; connection in the attractive rooms. A single connection in the attractive garden is small bathroom in the with shared but a good deal at AR$120. bread at breakfast, enticing places to sit about enticing places to sit about at breakfast, bread with internet with a book and a computer home-from-home feel about this B&B that’s about this B&B feel home-from-home home-baked like thoughtful touches, full of Carpe Diem .ar; Urquiza 329; s/d AR$240/300; TOP END TOP END Marilian Hotel Bonarda Boutique Hotel it sleeps four and goes for AR$340. ern and sunny and there’s a great little pool little a great and there’s ern and sunny to A duplex apartment next out the back. area There really is nothing really There mod- place: rooms are about this like convent teldelconvento.com.ar; Caseros 113; r AR$230; teldelconvento.com.ar; grades of room differ chiefly by size. The decor size. by room differ chiefly of grades range an eclectic with easy elegance, of is one art on the walls. of Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book Google Earth aficionados might know Google Earthaficionados might know (but what a location) on a corner of the post- (but what a location) on a corner of tradi- central plaza, in a stately, card-pretty THE ANDEAN NORTHWEST far it’sapaininthebacksidetoget to,this the touristzonetobeauthentic,butnotso dining street. There’s fine onwhatisahit-and-miss hits meatyheights Sat) &Necochea;mainsAR$30-50; .ar; cnrMitre AR$28-42; AR$33-45; Balcarce zone; atopspotfor adrink.There’s Balcarce but offers astylish terrace intheheartof the a BuenosAires cafe, thishaspricestomatch best. toSalta’s with gaytendencies. Close human terms –merlotisasensitive listener, each grapevariety describedin wine listsees land-type dishes involvinglambortrout.The with passionfruitandginger, orother high- bass llama carpacciocouldbefollowedby sea gourmet diningexperiencehere. Starters like thesceneforasatisfying set solicitous service serenade diners withSalta staff satile whether you’re inasuitorsinglet.Thever- a widerange of cuts,andsolicitous service 70% of theprice. a singleportion(stillbigslab of meat)for are huge –designedfortwobutyou’llget locals forits is adown-to-earthspotvery popularwith for 2AR$22-36; ing steak) fish dishesand lomo points –andavariedmenu.Itspecializesin –thefree apéritifwins offers solicitousservice rated andpopular,thisreliable touristychoice mains AR$18-40; ble chapatis, orquinoaandcornsalads. includeshitakemight stirfriedvegeta- ceviche, such, justthree orfourdailyspecials,which and Peruvian traditions.There’s nomenuas vegetarianwith tasty cuisine,blendingIndian spot transcendsitsshopping-arcade location AR$18-25; sauce. Tasty thedeal. seal salads or spinach fettuccini andcaper withsalmon assquid-inkraviolitemptations withcrab, includessuchDelicious homemadepasta gnocchi-with-four-cheese-sauce joints. 268 halfway through dinner.halfway through (priced-up) provincial choices. Café delTiempoCafé Jack Viejo El SolardelConvento Indyas Entre La Leñita José Balcarce Exposed stonewalls,ambientmusicand Exposed (sirloin) with tasty sauces, andalsohas sauces, (sirloin)withtasty UU AT RVNE • Sla JUJUY &SALTA ••Salta PROVINCES h h h

options. Thewinelistoffers lotsof

( 10am-3pm &8-11pm) lunch &dinner)

7pm-late) % h ( % parrillada h

( ( % 421-4865; cnrBalcarce&AAlsina;mains lunch &dinner) % parrillada 422-3911; Av Virrey Toledo145;mains lunch &dinner)

( 421-1628; www.cocinadealtura.com % 474-3879; BuenosAires 44;dishes Decked outtoresemble 432-0771; Balcarce 901; dishes 432-0771; Balcarce901; dishes

( and pasta. The serves Theserves andpasta. This popular % (mixed grillinclud- Far outof enough carne Thisintimate little 421-5124; Caseros444; Warmlydeco- (meat),with h dinner Mon- parrilla parrilla folklore to Buenos Aires (AR$660), and also services to Buenos Aires (AR$660), andalso services a classicalballetperformance. as likely tocatch aHoudini-stylemagicianas Itrunsthewholegamuthere:events. you’re cultural center neartheplazahasregular live drink neartheplaza. Themostatmosphericplacefora into Salta. movedthis Tucumánclassichasseamlessly sanía late Mon-Sat) ists, itkeeps itlively untillate. come asarelief. Popularwithlocalsandtour- indie ’90s–’00smixinthistrendy barmight After allthe pattern, sojustfollowyournose. typical boom-bust-reopen-with-new-name zone. andclubsaroundhere Bars follow the the surroundingstreets, are themainnightlife two blocksof northof Balcarce Alsina,and experience. The night-time the classicSalta theboxedSee text ( opposite ) forinfoon & Entertainment Drinking (shared appetizerplates) are great foragroup. –areceviche designedtoshare, andthe andesonline.com; España478) west of townon RP51. Salta’s AIR &Away There Getting get here, take bus2,3or7fromdowntown. work andtheregion’s distinctive ponchos. To mocks, stringbags,ceramics,basketry, leather Articles includenative handicrafts, such as ham- sponsored market isthemostnoteworthy place. h south fromthebusterminal. stretchingalong Balcarce, acoupleof blocks market Sunday up every An artisan’s sets new theater ina’40sbuildingontheplaza. offbeat fare inoriginalversion. andmoremas, showingHollywoodstandards cine- This isthemostcentralof several Salta’s Shopping tional offerings such aschop suey,sushi and Mostofnight. thedishes–includinginterna- some sortof performanceorlive musicevery Casa deCultura Casa Plaza deAlmas Macondo Teatro Provincial Cine Ópera Mercado Artesanal Mercado 8am-8:30pm) shops,abar,lounge, cafe andrestaurant, airport Offering aneclecticmixof Offering ( %

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For souvenirs, thisprovincially (SLA; 431-7191; Balcarce980;

( % 421-3520; Urquiza 560; tickets AR$10) 421-3520; Urquiza560;tickets

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% ( 422-8933; Pueyrredón 6; % 424-3115) 421-6042; Caseros460) musiconthisstreet, the 422-4515; Zuviria 70) 422-4515; Zuviria flies six times weekly fliessixtimesweekly 439-2808; Av San Martín 2555; 439-2808; Av SanMartín Andes is9.5kmsouth- (

lonelyplanet.com % 437-3514; www. h 8pm-late) Great h picadas This peñas arte- 9am-

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THE ANDEAN NORTHWEST 269 parrillada parrillada serves Cachi Cachi serves goes to San daily 421-4447) % ( . It can be a lot of fun, but 427-1127)

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lunch & 9pm-5am Tue-Sun) This lunch & 9pm-5am Tue-Sun) lunch & 9pm-late) This central historic h h Marcos Rueda is a great deal of fun. Traditional fare is is fare deal of fun. Traditional is a great with a stage, wooden tables and three live shows per three with a stage, wooden tables and Sample fares to other destinations: Sample fares Ale Hermanos peña while departing daily at 7am (AR$37, 4½ hours), and also at 1.30pm Tuesday and Saturday, at and at 5pm Sunday. 3.30pm Thursday Destination 4 Buenos Aires Cafayate 35 14 8 2 Cost (AR$) Catamarca 91 Duration (hr) Córdoba 160 210 Jujuy 23 La Quiaca 18 La Rioja 22 Mendoza 230 Puerto Iguazú 10 Resistencia 126 50 Río Gallegos Salvador Mazza 117 235 San Juan Santiago (Chile) 8 530 72 4½ Santiago del Estero 10 21 55 Tucumán 305 68 201 48 6 25 6 16 a few days before. The buses on to service go days before. a few Calama, Iquique and Arica. Antofagasta, Antonio de los Cobres (AR$25, 5½ hours), (AR$25, 5½ hours), Antonio de los Cobres (nightclubs) – it’s Salta’s main nightlife zone. zone. main nightlife (nightclubs) – it’s Salta’s peñas, (folk music), which is far more national in scope national in scope which is far more (folk music), , 431- boliches flies folklore % (resident of Salta) independence hero who looms large in gaucho and (resident ( salteño 421-1542; www.boliche-balderrama.com.ar; Av San Martín421-1542; www.boliche-balderrama.com.ar; Av 1126; show AR$20; is quite a touristy experience, with scheduled performances, touristy experience, with a is quite CD % 434-2835; Luis Burela 1; mains AR$18-35; Burela 434-2835; Luis (a stew of maize, beans, beef, prok and sausage), and a wide range of other choices. (a stew of maize, beans, beef, prok ( peña 422-8978; España 730, mains AR$13-28; % locro ( 421-7727; www.viejaestacion-salta.com.ar; Balcarce 885; show AR$12-15, mains AR$18-45; Balcarce 885; 421-7727; www.viejaestacion-salta.com.ar; % 401-1248; Av Hipólito Yrigoyen) 401-1248; Av ( is a bar or social club where people eat, drink and gather to play and listen listen and gather to play and people eat, drink club where is a bar or social % ( %

( Aerolíneas Argentinas to get you started: peña PROVINCES •• Salta JUJUY & SALTA 432-0149; www.aerosur.com; Buenos Buenos 432-0149; www.aerosur.com; flies three times daily to Buenos times daily to Buenos flies three which often traditionally took the form of an impromptu jam session. form of an impromptu jam traditionally took the which often % peñas (

heartland is Calle Balcarce, between Alsina and the train station. There are several here, here, several are heartland between Alsina and the train station. There Balcarce, is Calle culture hereabouts. Decent, fairly priced worthwhile food – with some hereabouts. culture lunch specials – and good local music. 421-7330; www.lan.com; Buenos Aires 88) 421-7330; www.lan.com; Buenos Aires bus terminal flies three times weekly to Santa flies three Cruz, 9pm-1.30am) With cheap but unremarkable this is Salta’s most touristy food, 8pm-3am Tue-Sun) The best established of the Balcarce The best established of the Balcarce 8pm-3am Tue-Sun) folklore, Peña These days, the Salta These Some % (

sales, tour groups and high prices, and it’s difficult to find an authentic spot. There are a couple a couple are spot. There it’s difficult to find an authentic and high prices, and sales, tour groups you may catch a spontane- time, and their spare folk musicians hang out in where (ask around) ous performance. Nevertheless, the standard Salta a wider menu including wine – delicious, but most of the places offer empanadas and red and quinoa featuring. and ‘Andean cuisine’, with llama meat steak) grill including (mixed house was once occupied by Güemes, a folklore former mansion, about 20 blocks west of Plaza 9 de Julio, is a Salta classic that goes sinfully late at weekends. west of Plaza 9 de Julio, is a Salta classic that goes sinfully late former mansion, about 20 blocks It has performersseveral with different spacious rooms, each around the tables rather than on a stage. who work h night. Tasty empanadas and night. Tasty along with other restaurants, bars and along with other restaurants, Boliche Balderrama Peña de Güemes La Casa La Casona del Molino La Casona to PEÑAS OF SALTA OF SALTA PEÑAS for its Argentina-wide Salta is famous A than tango. feels contrivedfeels these days. h Things typically get moving at 9.30pm, but go on till late, especially at weekends. especially at but go on till late, at 9.30pm, get moving typically Things La Vieja Estación La Vieja Two companies, Andesmar and Pullman, Flights are heavily oversubscribed, so try to oversubscribed, heavily Flights are Aerosur hours and costs AR$180. It’s worth reserving and costs AR$180. hours on Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday. It goeson Tuesday, Thursday 10 to 11 takes de Jama, via Jujuy and the Paso do the run to San Pedro de Atacama, Chile, do the run to San Pedro at around 7am on Monday, Wednesday and service,Friday. Geminis, an inferior does it southeast of downtown, has frequent services downtown, has frequent southeast of the country. The information to all parts of the concourse. desk is in the middle of BUS BUS Salta’s book well ahead. Aires 88) Aires Puerto Madryn. Puerto Madryn. 1331; Caseros 475) Newbery (AR$813). Jorge Aeroparque Aires’ LAN and Jujuy (AR$68). Through Buenos Aires and Jujuy (AR$68). Through Buenos Aires you can connect to its other destination, Córdoba (AR$402), Puerto Iguazú (AR$602) lonelyplanet.com Bolivia (AR$537). the same route twice daily. the same route THE ANDEAN NORTHWEST an enormous desert canyon at an enormous desert and224mlong.Itspans viaduct 64mhigh – astunning tle furthertothetrip’s highlight Antonio delosCobres, before continuingalit- Toro, continuing pastTastil ruinsandSan to ascendthemulticolored Quebradadel (Train totheClouds)leaves Valley theLerma the century. FromSalta, tothe start running again,after anuncertain Argentina’s mostfamous trainrideisupand TREN ALASNUBES tion anddowntownwiththebusterminal. (AR$15). thatdohotel pickups bookable shuttlebuses a AR$17 it’s runs totheairport(AR$1.25),otherwise Bus 6fromSanMartín nearBuenosAires Around Getting Tren alasNubes exceptthe nolongerSalta hastrainservices, TRAIN Noa Europcar Asís AndarSalta AR$300 orso. the paperwork,which willcostyouanextra require afew days’noticeof thistoprocess is possibletotake themintoChile. Companies tourist office forcurrent conditions. car.standard Alwayscheck withtheprovincial ina and SalinasGrandesisnormallypassable only, butthe Grandes towardAbra Pampa are usually4WD Poma (enroute andnorthof toCachi), Salinas SanAntoniodelosCobres between andLa hire, ortriplethatfora4WD.Thestretches charge AR$170toAR$220perdayforaweek’s airport orcitypick-ups.Typically,companies are often specialoffers available. Mostwilldo aroundgetting quotes,cies; cruise asthere andvalleys.Therehighlands are manyagen- thesurrounding inordertosee days inSalta Many travelers torent choose acarforfew CAR 270 Buenos Aires 88) Decent prices; cheaperifyoupaycash. Buenos Aires 88)Decentprices; .com.ar) Goodweeklydeals. andfairlypriced. Aires 68)Straighttalking 1) IntheHotelSalta. Local bus5(AR$1.25)connectsthetrainsta- You can’ttake rental cars intoBolivia,butit Some companies: ( ( % % UU AT RVNE • Te a ue JUJUY &SALTA ••Tren alasNubes PROVINCES 431-1704; www.asisrentacar.com.ar; Buenos 431-7080; www.noarentacar.com; BuenosAires ( % ( remise % 421-8848; Córdoba20;www.europcar ripio ripio 431-0720; www.andarsalta.com.ar; (taxi ride).There (taxi are also (see (see below ). road between SanAntonio road between Tren alasNubes La Polvorilla ,

168km westof and over Salta, 2600mabove This dustylittleminingtownisonthepuna % SAN ANTONIODELOSCOBRES include theviaductandcostaroundAR$190. route, which ascent;they isalso aspectacular trips alongtheroadthatparallelstrain’s also dothisforyou. travel BuenosAires agents alongCalle can wherestation youcanbooktickets; most .com.ar; eat inthediningcarortake apicnic. and snacks,butnotlunch ordinner;youcan trip costsUS$120,which includesbreakfast train runsonlyonSaturday,andthereturn therenight andmake theirownwayback.The togetchoose inSanAntonio,spendthe off and notgetting backuntil11pm.Somepeople It’salongday–leaving at7am, mentary. Salta formances, karaoke andmultilingualcom- Chilean border,571kmwestof Salta. Pasocontinues tothehigh deSocompaonthe is thetrain’slaststop,buttrackactually very impressive onceyouget This upclose. underwhelmingatfirstit’s glimpse, it seems any reasonable economicgrounds.Though achievement unjustifiableengineering on 4220m above andisamagnificent level, sea the center of town, andalittlekiosk atthe cover the800km. 20days to It wasarugged journey,taking to thePacificAtacama andthenon toLima. ofing therugged elevations thePunade here, through trains; oneroute cross- passed northwestern Argentina depended onpack of (see theyear,southtoCachi p274 ). Salinas GrandesandPurmamarca,and, some here totheQuebradadeHumahuacavia American life. Youcanheadnorthfrom the feel of thisfacetof Argentine andSouth or street art,butisworthstoppingintoget It’s nottheplaceforcutting-edge nightlife temperature down. assoonthesungoes dropin streetsalmost deserted andaserious withadobe houses, settlement, cal highland Tren alas Nubes railway, andrelies heavily ontourismandthe tion of theregion’s miningandassociated it. It’ssuffered greatly sincethedeteriora- Many touroperators (see inSalta p265 ) run There’s an The tripisatouristyone,with In colonial times, transportation fromIn colonialtimes,transportation There’s atouristoffice near thebridge in 0387 / pop 4274 / elev 3775m 0387 /pop4274elev h 8am-10pm Mon-Fri, from6amSat) 8am-10pm Mon-Fri, office forincome. It’savery typi-

( % 422-3033; www.trenalasnubes lonelyplanet.com folklore at Salta atSalta per- THE ANDEAN NORTHWEST

, 271 Tren road is is salt plain salares ripio and the and the Olacapato (mains AR$15 (mains

La Casualidad Paso de Sico Paso (breaded cutlets) and local and local cutlets) (breaded (salt plains) are in Salta prov- (salt plains) are ( opposite ). There’s precious lit- precious ). There’s opposite ( salinas milanesas road that heads north 97km from San The Simple restaurants are dotted along along dotted are Simple restaurants SALINAS GRANDES in a remote part of the puna, at some 3350m part of in a remote sea up in the dried level. Once a lake above ince, but are most easily reached by heading most easily reached ince, but are RP 52 from Purmamarca west along the paved the 5km west of About in Jujuy province. good RP52 and RN40 (the of intersection ripio a saltmining there’s Antonio de los Cobres), onto the salt drive you can building; opposite, basins from out the rectangular pan to check the salt is periodically dug out. A few which runs 97km north, skirting the Salinas Grandes runs 97km north, skirting RP52. with the paved to intersect Bring sunglasses for this spectacular salt Holocene this is now a 525-sq-km crust of thick. On a clear day, the meter up to half a blinding contrast between the bright blue sky white and crusty expanse of and the cracked is spellbinding. Book ahead. The restaurant ahead. The Book to and 7pm noon to 2pm open to AR$25; 9.30pm) serves local dishes; menu of a short nourishing. and well prepared all are Belgrano; empana- good bets for these are das, staples. Getting There & Away daily buses from Salta are (AR$25, 5½ There Seealso the with Ale Hermanos. hours) a las Nubes tle transportation running over the Paso de the Paso tle transportation over running trying to Sico to Chile these if you are days; town for trucks due to ask around hitchhike, a good From San Antonio, leave.

. Sixty kilometers west of San Antonio, Remises artesanía Socompa The best place ) PROVINCES •• Salinas Grandes SALTA JUJUY & , where there are accommodations in private homes. Beyond here it’s it’s Beyond here homes. accommodations in private are there , where 490-9059; www.maresur W This basic but very This basic but very ( opposite ). From the opposite ( % (

490-9912; www.vivirenloscobres. 490-9019; hostalelpalenque@hotmail % ( Tolar Grande

% Welcoming and tidy, this is a (

Tren a las Nubes From Olacapato you can continue west to the Paso de Sico, or head southwest across From Olacapato you can continue west to the Paso

the end of the road and one of Argentina’s most remote spots. Needless to say, it’s a trip only Needless to say, it’s a trip only spots. most remote the end of the road and one of Argentina’s you all your fuel needs from San Antonio, where Take possible in summer, and an arduous one. Don’t wander off-road around Mina La can buy 200L drums, and inform police of your plans. still around. Chile are with as some landmines from a 1970s dispute Casualidad, remote rail and road crossing at remote If you thought San Antonio de los Cobres was remote, think again. Hundreds of kilometers of Salta of kilometers of Salta think again. Hundreds was remote, If you thought San Antonio de los Cobres and include two passes to Chile: the barren west of here, stretch province WESTERN SALTA PROVINCE PROVINCE WESTERN SALTA Argentina’s highest village, at 4090m above sea level. All the area’s settlements are mining camps mining camps settlements are All the area’s sea level. highest village, at 4090m above Argentina’s up around the railway that serviced abandoned now. or grew many are the mines; (salt flats) to to the abandoned mine of de Socompa, or 131km southward 139km to the Paso Hostería de las Nubes El Palenque

in San Antonio charge about AR$30 for the in San Antonio charge journey. return which boast doubleglazing and heating. boast doubleglazing and heating. which family ownership. paratively) warm, there’s hot water and sound hot water warm, there’s paratively) room AR$90/120) past blocks from the center, a few fine choice It looks closed from outside, but the church. and (com- insulated it’s not. The rooms are .com; Belgrano s/n; d without bathroom AR$60, tr/q with bath- fast included. There’s a small anthropological a small anthropological fast included. There’s museum next door. spotless, comfortable dorms; bathrooms are comfortablespotless, bathrooms are dorms; break- get also mighty clean; HI members will drop you here if you ask, otherwise if you ask, it’s will drop you here two are There about 1km from the center. org.ar; Belgrano s/n; dm AR$35) org.ar; Busesing toward the viaduct. from Salta Sleeping & Eating Sleeping & Eating Hostal del Cielo parking lot, which has a couple of has a couple of parking lot, which is the viaduct at Lais the viaduct stop Polvorilla, the last of the There’s little to see little to in town – thoughThere’s the sun- spectacularsetsthe west – but 16km to are eastern entrance to town. In theory they are they are In theory to town. entrance eastern try your but it’s a fiction; to 8pm, open 8am luck. Sights a zigzag path to the shops, you can climb up and walk across it. the viaduct top of Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book .com; Caseros 441; s/d AR$160/200; friendly hostel is on the edge of town, head- town, of is on the edge friendly hostel to stay and eat in town, this has attractively to stay and eat in town, this has attractively simple decoration in its comfortable rooms, THE ANDEAN NORTHWEST ported totheviceregal haddied or had capital The lastdescendants of the270familiestrans- name of onegroup of displacedpeople. these Aires, suburbof whose Quilmesbears the to relocate asfaraway asBuenos theDiaguita labor problems,sincetheironlysolution was packtrains. attacking fromsowingtheir owncropsand the Diaguita having armedforces toprevent tomaintain but foundthemselves tions ontheDiaguita, forcedlaborobliga- twice triedtoimpose plagued bylaborshortages, theSpaniards toSpanish rule.sistance Inthe17thcentury, putupsomeof(Calchaquí) re- thestiffest neoclassical columnsorMoorish arches. have might modest adobehouses tion –even chitecture valleysmeritsspecial atten- inthese Thevernacularpeaceful andpopularbase. ar- the Parque isanother NacionalLosCardones, roadthatcrosses viaaspectacular from Salta accessible orMolinos,whileCachi, Angastaco a contrasttomore remote such as settlements its wineriesandpaved presents quite highway, wines. Smallbutsophisticated with Cafayate, adobe villages andsomeof Argentina’s best traditional workshops, strikinglyattractive winning combinationof rugged landscapes, zones:a most seductive off-the-beaten-track The Valles isoneof Calchaquíes Argentina’s VALLES CALCHAQUÍES want toprioritizeotherattractions. that way(orhave already youmight been), Bolivia are more even so;ifyou’re heading worldly unless youopttoovernight inPurmamarca. From thelatter,Salta. it’sahellishlylongday, Purmamarca, ortake atourfromJujuyor tohitchhike. traffic road hasenough of hours later, butonotherdaysit’snot.This to catch abusbacktoPurmamarcacouple before doingthis;onsomedaysit’spossible carefullyPurmamarca. Checkthetimetables aSusques-boundoff busfromJujuyor salinas and Susques.Theonlywayof reaching the are placestostay yet. Theclosest SanAntonio drinks andfoodare ontheroadnearby. here.made fromsalt Acoupleof placestobuy andllamas decentstonecarvings sell artisans 272 Military dominationdidnot solveMilitary Spanish valleys,indigenous DiaguitaIn these The hireOtherwise, acar,grab a hotel’ hasn’tappeared ‘salt The inevitable UU AT RVNE • Vle acaue JUJUY &SALTA ••Valles PROVINCES Calchaquíes by public transportation istojump bypublictransportation salinas salares are buttheother- spectacular, (salt flats) (salt

in southwestern remise from s/n) Buses between Salta and Cachi willstopfor andCachi Salta between Buses plenty of water andprotection fromthesun. there isa main roadisgraduallybeingrenovated –but avisitorcenter –though onthe no services otherworldlysentinels. with these manya Certainly, tract, readily sprouted aroundtheirlatrines. which, theintestinal after passingthrough people of thepunaate blackseed, itssweet tors of archaeological sites: theindigenous Kirbus, clusters of cardónescanbeindica- According toArgentine writer Federico buildings andtheregion’s colonialchurches. itoften Yousee invernacularand similaruses. of timberforrafters, doors, windowframes source animportant the cardónhaslongbeen striking plantspecies. cactus knownasthecardón,park’smost takes itsnamefromthecandelabra Cardones delObispo, the Cuesta Parque NacionalLos across toCachi the windingRP33fromSalta Occupying some650sqkmonbothsidesof Parque NacionalLosCardones das of theAndes. Spaniards intolarge ruralestates, thehacien- forcenturieswasformedbythe the Diaguita ence. Theproductive landthathadsustained dispersed bythetimeof Argentine independ- San José and thetouristoffice. Güemes s/n; Artesanal fully planneditinerary. of placethateatsextradaysoutof yourcare- explore thesurroundsmeanthatit’ssort tranquilplazaandopportunities to houses, Thecobblestones, adobe days andcrispnights. itboastsfreshmountains, air,sunny highland bynobleby stunningscenery.Overlooked tle more thanavillage, albeitonesurrounded abouts, enchanting isnevertheless lit- Cachi here-The biggest placebysomedistance % Cachi sible, picturesque partof thepark. at Valle which Encantada, isthe mostacces- you, butverify times.Mostpeopledisembark Los Cardones isfree toenterLos Cardones andstillhas In thetreeless Andeanfoothillsandpuna, Opposite, thesimplebut attractive On thewestsideof theplaza, inPayogasta, 11kmnorthof Take Cachi. 03868 / pop 2189 / elev 2280m 03868 /pop2189elev (1796) has gracefularches and a

( h % ranger office 8am-8pm) 491902; [email protected]; pucará isbothahandicraft shop

( % 03868-496005; San Martín 03868-496005; SanMartín intheregion bristles lonelyplanet.com Mercado Mercado Iglesia THE ANDEAN NORTHWEST 273 ) With its Just off the plaza ) Built of traditional Built of ) Opposite the ACA the ACA Opposite 491912; s/d with bathroom aiWs 491105; www.soldelvalle.com 490020; www.lamerceddelalto % 491094; www.bodegaelmolino

( 491902; [email protected]; camp- [email protected]; 491902; aW % % ( %

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( 491034; www.elcortijohotel.com; Av ACA 491034; www.elcortijohotel.com; Av s ) On a hill southwest of the plaza, of On a hill southwest % s (

El Cortijo La Merced del Alto El Molino de Cachi ACA Hostería Cachi Hotel Nevado de Cachi .com.ar; d AR$610; race with loungers (doubles AR$380) – have (doubles AR$380) – have race with loungers an origi- There’s the sierra. fabulous views of and various further nal-looking restaurant in the works. improvements .com; s/d AR$599/701; and with ceramic floors adobe whitewashed from across the river cane ceilings, this hotel an historic mon- town is designed to look like excellent facilities and great It offers astery. rooms peace and quiet, with cool, restrained either the hills beyond (slightly looking over Public patio. or the interior expensive) more a good include a most inviting lounge, areas mas- offering and a rustic spa area restaurant, sierra with a pool and Jacuzzi treatments, sage views. Service top-notch. is multilingual and shared and private – work well enough. and private Prices shared a bit negotiable and vary slightly by room; are double round the back. try for the upstairs ACA s/n; s/d AR$203/302; .ar; Av has hotel hilltop position, this family-friendly worse are and there the best views in town, poolside relaxing ways to spend your day than comfortable them out. Rooms are checking surround a and unexciting but picturesquely even a little zoo. patio; there’s s/n; s/d from AR$250/295; Cachi this stylish small entrance, Hostería but are large rooms that aren’t offers hotel with finesse, and some – particu- decorated ter- with its own private larly ‘Los Padres’, SLEEPING SLEEPING Camping Municipal sites AR$15-20; individual with shaded campsites this offers munici- the by hedges; barbecues surrounded with basic also a hostel There’s pal pool is here. bathroom AR$20/12) dorms (with/without (AR$125); reservations cabins of and a couple at the tourist office. must be made AR$60/80, s without bathroom AR$30) and right by the bus stop, this is a decent with rooms around a patio. choice budget Beds comfortable, and bathrooms – both are converted mill makes a highly relaxing rural a highly relaxing mill makes converted kilometers Four base for exploring the area. Cachi, it’s also a winery. of from the center It doesn’t walk-ins, so book ahead. No take cards. or credit children

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( Calchaquíes PROVINCES •• Valles SALTA JUJUY & 03868-15-638545; san Museo Arqueológico % (

is a well-presented and and is a well-presented dotted around the valley; dotted Todo lo Nuestro , a tiny village where there’s there’s where , a tiny village . and then its picturesque hilltop and then its picturesque pool ; nearby is a rather unlikely airstrip. airstrip. ; nearby is a rather unlikely Santiago Casimiro (a big clay vessel for storing oil). for storing (a big clay vessel viewpoint is a labor of love that features replica replica that features love is a labor of 491080; admission by AR$5 or AR$10 donation; 491080; admission Cachi Adentro There’s a handful of rather unremarkable rather unremarkable a handful of There’s For more strenuous hiking and mountain- strenuous For more Two kilometers southwest of the center, on the center, southwest of Two kilometers Next door, Cachi’sNext door, % eering, these are signposted and also appear on the signposted these are desti- and make area, the map of tourist office or drives. hikes nations for picturesque archaeological sites this will lead you back to Cachi via the hamlet Laof Aguada. to the lovely Algarrobal campground); and Algarrobal to the lovely road winds around the valley and eventually turn left afterwards, shortly crosses the river; road (or rightwhen you hit a bigger for 2km past the church and then take a left down the and then take past the church road labelled Camino This de las Carreras. with water. From here, you could return a could return you From here, with water. bear left 26km roundtrip): way (about longer to swing on the seats deal to do save not a great from the only in the demi-plaza or sip a soda walk in sum- It’s a particularly lovely store. alive cascades are and mer, when the streams A short walk from Cachi’s plaza brings you to a ACTIVITIES ACTIVITIES have just stepped out for a minute. There’s a There’s out for a minute. just stepped have too. here, rustically styled restaurant you walk (an hour and a bit) takes A longer buildings from several the valley’s phases of in some of project; history. It’s a fascinating as if the occupants feels the buildings it really cemetery 5668; [email protected]; admission AR$10; 5668; [email protected]; 7pm) the edge of town, of the edge background information on archaeological on archaeological background information the wall miss Don’t methods, all in Spanish. in the secondary stones patio, composed of with petroglyphs. professionally arranged account of the sur- account of arranged professionally cultural evolution, with good rounding area’s ( Sun) 7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-1pm of cardón, while the holy water lives in a large in a large lives water cardón, while the holy of tinaja barrel-vaulted ceiling of cardón wood. The cardón wood. ceiling of barrel-vaulted made also are other features and confessional Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book [email protected]; Barrio Casa 17) Cooperativa for signs or ask in the tourist office. After all After for signs or ask in the tourist office. in the you can always cool off that endeavor, municipal local guide. Many locals hire out locals hire Many local guide. THE ANDEAN NORTHWEST dishes AR$10-25; 40; Salta and Cachi. It’s a spectacular ride, It’saspectacular andCachi. Salta travels bylonelygoat farmstoa4895m pass. ariver ascent thatcriss-crosses and tacular Antonio delosCobres, isanarduous,spec- the endof the line. The road beyond,toSan is town that,asfar publictransportgoes, Poma (AR$17,1¼hours), anold hacienda Adentro (AR$2.20,30minutes). Saturday runtoCachiMonday through Molinos five whilethree timesweekly, buses dailyand isserviced on Sunday.Seclantás Thursday andFriday,a3.30pm service onMonday, Saturday. There’s a3pmservice (AR$37, 4½hours) leave at9.05amMondayto Parque toSalta Buses NacionalLosCardones. then traveling thecactus-studded through delObispopass, winding uptotheCuesta Rueda Marcos THERE&AWAYGETTING Wine pricesare mostlyover theodds. the plazaisalsoafineplaceforsundowner. couple of creative meatymains.Theterrace on able choice anda pizza,bruschetta for tasty restaurant wooden-tabled multilevel, isareli- in anopenkitchen behind thebar. fried filletswithvegetables –thatare prepared more elaborate mains–quinoarisottoorpan- andacoupleof menuoftasty salads pasta, snug, thislikable littleplacehasashortbut dishes AR$15-35; traditional dishes. anddecentfor-the-tourists amiable service local artandphotosonthewalls,slowbut plaza, thishasarelaxing diningarea with deCachi. the Hotel Nevado comedores best are thevariousno-frills For localdishes such as EATING Hostal delInkañan La Mamama 274 Decent roomsaroundagrassypatiouphillfromtheplaza. mail.com; Güemess/n;dm/dwithoutbathroomAR$30/80) Cachi-casual feel. street, withsimplerooms withsaggymattresses anda bathroom AR$20/40)Awelcomingspotonthebusstop There northtoLa are buses fourweekly Other options: Oliver Oliver Ashpamanta Platos yDiseño h UU AT RVNE • Vle acaue JUJUY &SALTA ••Valles PROVINCES Calchaquíes 8am-midnight) ( % aroundtheplazaandacrossfrom ( 491903; RuízdelosLlanos160;mainsAR$15- %

h ( h

( % % 491305; Suárez 590;dm/rwithout lunch &dinner)

( ( lunch &dinner) Ontheplaza,thishomey, % 491063) 0387-15-451-4267; Bustamantes/n; % 0387-15-513-3861; Güemess/n; 491135; luisreicolque@hot buses runbetween buses locro Uphillfromthe Compactand confiterías and humitas and , tinues toMolinossomedays. (AR$12, 1¼hours, twoonSaturday);itcon- pool that’sopentothepublic. ground isjustbehind thechurch, andhasa common areas anddecentrooms.Thecamp- and spotless,features pretty, comfortable, AR$70/90, withoutbathroomAR$50/70) Rueda around theplaza. Amongthem, top of town. from 1835;theevocative worn byPopeJohn Paul II. known hereabouts forhaving woven aponcho of theArtisans the stretch of dubbedthe roadhasbeen theirwares;that youcandropinandperuse homesaresans’ marked withasignindicating north of here, arti- alongtheroadtoCachi, are manyweavers’ workshopsintown,and the spiritualhomeof poncho. theSalta There Charming isaquiet littleplacethat’s Seclantás % Seclantás San Antoniothelongwayround. you’llhavefor advice. Otherwise, toapproach December); phonethe timesof to certain year(normallySeptember inanon-4WDvehicleIt’s onlypassable at agricultural research vicuñas and armraises ( shipment toBuenosAires.and subsequent here in Salta withskins,wool andwoodforsale Well intothe20thcentury,packtrains passed the trans-Andean route to ChileandPeru. on Like Molinoswasawaystation Angastaco, twin belltowers andatraditional tiledroof. San Pedro deNolasco The town’srestored 18th-century operational flourmillontheRíoCalchaquí. modations. There’s anATM ontheplaza. augmented byshady streets andgoodaccom- reveal somereal gems. Itspicturesque appeal is thestreetstle decline;astrollthrough will a collectionof strikingadobe buildingsingen- you see Molinos, alovely littlebackwater with waslaid-back, Cachi waituntil If youthought % Molinos % There’s a daily bus from Cachi to Seclantás There’s toSeclantás adaily busfromCachi are clustered inSeclantás Places tostay Seclantás’ About 1.5km westisthe Molinos takes itsnamefromthestill- 03868 / pop 927 / elev 2020m 03868 /pop927elev 2100m 03868 /pop306elev 0387-15-407-1259)

( % 498041; cnrCornejo&Ferreyra; s/dwithbathroom . One of them, Señor Tero,. Oneof them,Señor iswell church Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels , intheCuzcostyle,features where thegovernment’s , pretty inyellow,dates police cemetery ( Criadero Coquera Criadero % ishospitable 0387-490-9051) Hostería La Hostería isatthe Iglesia de Route Route

THE ANDEAN NORTHWEST

275 grape vin- or police or police Horseback Horseback vino patero , the village’s , the village’s in the municipal in the municipal 03868-494044; www % (

municipalidad Virgin of the Valley bodega features chic and relaxing rooms rooms chic and relaxing features designed by artist James Turrell, designed by artist James Turrell, ) pucará. archaeological museum is easily arranged via the Hostería via the Hostería is easily arranged 2-6pm) and making of foot-trodden and making of There’s a daily bus to Molinos from CachiMolinos from bus to a daily There’s 03868 / pop 881 / elev03868 / pop 1955m Angastaco has a gas station but no bank. Angastaco’s major fiestaAngastaco’s is on December 8, major h Angastaco Angastaco fields of anise and cumin, and the ruins of an aniseruins of and cumin, and the fields of ancient as well is a tourist office square, on the There as an station will help. and someone riding Angastaco. the the day of (AR$17, two hours) on Monday, Wednesday, Wednesday, on Monday, two hours) (AR$17, from and Sunday. It returns Friday, Saturday Thursday Monday, Tuesday, Molinos at 7am and 2pm on Sunday. and Saturday, % the most Angastaco of sits among some Tiny the valley tortuous rockscapes of dramatically Molinos and south of Forty kilometers route. San Carlos, other it resembles 54km north of intervalsplaced at regular oasis settlements Calchaquíes, with vineyards, in the Valles but hours, open irregular building. Both are ask around in the patron. On February 17 and 18, the patron. On February tage is celebrated with a festival. is celebrated , which is set (as they say hereabouts) ‘where ‘where , which is set (as they say hereabouts) aiWs , (admission free; (admission free;

10:30am-6pm) Hacienda 494061; car- h

( is an excellent Casa de Entre Ríos Casa de Entre Ríos museum for sale. There are two two are for sale. There (family homes) scattered scattered (family homes) Calchaquíes PROVINCES •• Valles JUJUY & SALTA (www.estanciacolome.com; d AR$1486; (www.estanciacolome.com; 494094; www.haciendademolinos.com.

is also known as the Casa de ) % ( Los Cardones de Molinos

hotel hospedajes The The Not far from Colomé, Bodega El Humanao is also worthBodega El Humanao is also a visit for its beautifully balanced Not far from Colomé, iWs with a permanent exhibition of nine of his works. These are utterly memorable installations memorable installations utterly are These with a permanent exhibition of nine of his works. Both perception; it’s a remarkableinvolving light and the strange frontiers of our own place. bodega and museum visits should be booked ahead by phone or email (museo@colomeargen- to AR$29) for a light lunch. bodega also serves (AR$27 The salads and baguettes tina.com). cabernet-malbec blend, among others. blend, cabernet-malbec .bodegacolome.com; tasting AR$30-50; .bodegacolome.com; accompanied by excellent multilingual service and a raft of facilities, including a picturesque Apart novels from lolling about reading pool surrounded by the grapevines and beds of lavender. criollo horses – really some of the impressive and enjoying the wine, you could also head off on restau- The the surrounding hillscapes. trained by whispering rather than the lash – to explore rant (book ahead) to is open to visitors, with a short mains (AR$45 menu of just two changing AR$60), one of which is vegetarian. FINCA COLOMÉ produced at this ecological finest wines are Some of Argentina’s the devil lost his poncho,’ some 20km down a spectacular gravel road west from Molinos. The The from Molinos. road west the devil lost his poncho,’ some 20km down a spectacular gravel enjoy a stunning vines) and hotel European vineyards (including some ancient pre-phylloxera that seem to change color hourly. Forward natural setting, surrounded by hills and mountains thinking on environmental, social and cultural fronts is also in evidence: the complex is electri- in the local community cally self-sufficient, has funded substantial infrastructural improvements and now boasts a stunning Across from the church, adobe from the church, Across The and great bathrooms, set around lovely patio bathrooms, set around lovely and great and ut- the village of spaces. It’s on the edge restaurant. a good peaceful. There’s terly inviting beds, antique furniture, cane ceilings inviting beds, antique furniture, ing residence in a town that was a stronghold in a town ing residence It’s been picturesquely royalist resistance. of with sober, handsome rooms with restored, Isasmendi, after Salta’s last colonial governor, Isasmendi, Salta’s after last colonial governor, and died in this sprawl- who was born, lived part of the former Estancia Luracatao, where the former Estancia Luracatao,part of where de Molinos r superiorar; Cornejo s/n; s/d standard AR$300/380, AR$450- 510; source of local advice. Breakfast is included. Breakfast local advice. source of and can use exceptionally wel- the the kitchen; owner is a good coming and accommodating choice, with comfortable with cactus rooms choice, the family as one of treated You’re furniture. [email protected]; cnr Sarmiento & San Martín;[email protected]; cnr r per person with/without bathroom AR$50/40) around town are more like homestays than like more are around town anything. simple rooms (AR$30 per person) here. (AR$30 per person) simple rooms there’s a fine artisans’ market with spectacular a fine artisans’ market there’s de güemes ponchos manages to shear them without damaging without damaging shear them to manages is the alongside their health; lonelyplanet.com THE ANDEAN NORTHWEST is signposted offthemainroadatCachi budget choice. (the It’s50mtoyourright laying up forawhiletoexplore thesurround- invitesto visitinandaround town,Cafayate wineries budget,dations forevery and several route. of Withaselection excellentaccommo- southern terminus of theValles Calchaquíes andisalsothe QuebradadeCafayate, tacular feel. It’seasilyreached viathespec- fromSalta tination butstillhasatranquilsmall-town production, isapopulartouristdes- Cafayate Argentina’s center forquality wine second % CAFAYATE flair andbeauty. rooms (alldifferent) are decorated withrustic innovations. Theowners are potters, andthe it incorporates someingenious environmental tilesandcaneceilings, adobe, withterracotta end of town.Builtinthetraditionalmannerof Vientos herea specialplacetostay in butthere’s or Angastaco, toCafayate through riving fromthenorth.Mostvisitors pushon by paved shockifyou’re road,apleasant ar- 22km northof isconnected Cafayate, toit A sizable traditional village, San Carlos, % San Carlos take water. walk. Hitchhiking isvery slowhereabouts; it’sahitchhikeroom. Otherwise, orlong Monday; they’lltake touristsforfree ifthere’s returns them toMolinosataround6amon ataround5pmonFriday,and to Angastaco from theboardingschool inMolinoshome There’stotal. alsoatransportthattakes kids run theroute inacarortruckforAR$120 and are limited. Transport optionstoMolinos,40kmnorth, Friday and4pmSunday(noSaturdayservice). at6amMondayto andCafayate San Carlos wasonebusthatheadedsouthto portation a restaurant andsummer-only pool. throws onthebedsandcardónchests. There’s excellent valueforitsroomswithartisanal s/d AR$40/70; facing thechurch. one withthefancyporch) ifyou’re standing person with/withoutbathroomAR$30/20) 276 At research time,theonlypublictrans- Hospedaje ElCardón 03868 / pop 10,714 / elev 1683m 03868 /pop10,714elev 03868 /pop1887 Miguel Pastrana Miguel UU AT RVNE • Cfyt JUJUY &SALTA ••Cafayate PROVINCES

( % s 495073; Barrio Cemitigre; rAR$120) 495073; Barrio Moisés López ) feels abitabandonedbutoffers Hostería Angastaco Hostería

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admission AR$2; plaza. Martín; plaza. Mon-Fri, 11:30am-3pmSat) Mon-Fri, Colón &Calchaquí;admissionbydonation; The private MUSEUMS Sights &Activities informationkiosk Tourist Locutorio La Red plaza; alsochangesmoney. Banco delaNación Information 40 isAv Güemes. General town,RN the QuebradadeCafayate. Through through toSalta andRN68,whichCachi, goes northwesttoMolinosand40, which goes RN nearthejunctionbetween Calchaquíes, sitsatthefootofCafayate theValles tannat. reds malbecand from cabernet sauvignon, bodegas hereabouts alsoproducesomefine producing aromaticdrywhite wine,butthe craftspeople, socheck outthe ing area. Italsohasmanyyoungartistsand paintings terfall furtherup.Lookout forhidden where youcanswim.There’s wa- asecond for about1½hours toget toa10m the RíoColorado. Followthe river upstream A 6kmwalk southwest of townleadsyouto RÍO COLORADO time youvisit. justhavewings might transformed itbythe dry, butambitiousplansfornew,interactive antiquated winemakingequipment.It’spretty local wineproductionanddisplaysarange of explanation, thematerial speaksforitself. across tworooms.Whilethere’s notmuch andIncapottery,Diaguita allwelldisplayed of andAguada theCandelaria cultures tolate of ceramics,fromtheblackandgraywares the collectionconsistsof anexcellent array grave sites ina30kmradiusfromCafayate, and wellworthavisit.Sourcedmostlyfrom enthusiastic archaeologist RodolfoBravo Orientation Orientation Cafayate isfamousforitstorrontés Cafayate The h (Toscano 79;perhrAR$3)Internetaccessonthe (Toscano Museo deVitivinicultura Museo ontheway (forabout AR$10, local (Av Güemes&Belgrano) General 8am-9pm) On the northeast cornerofthe 8am-9pm) Onthenortheast h Museo Arqueológico Museo 8am-8pm) (Plaza San Martín) ATM (PlazaSanMartín) onthe isthecollectionleftby ( details thehistoryof details % 422442; PlazaSan lonelyplanet.com

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position at the foot of the jagged hills. The short the jagged position at the foot of tour and tasting but if nominally costs AR$15, It also does tastyyou buy wine it’s not charged. it is open and Ring ahead to check picadas here. if you want to eat. Grape-picking day in March welcomed. fun, with volunteers is lots of wines you want to try. tours AR$20; www.elesteco.com.ar; noon, 2:30pm, 3:30pm, 4.30pm & 5:30pm Mon-Fri, 10am, 11am & noon Sat) winery producing is a smart and attractive best wines and offering the region’s some of accommodations. upmarket h tour including tasting. It produces some six quality torrontés, cabernet million bottles of and malbec per year. ‘Mounier’),to Río Colorado (it’s signposted and friendly small, organic ( production. The tour is free, but tastings cost production. The tour is free, AR$30, AR$60 or AR$90 depending on which Etchart

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? i A @ El Porvenir Salvador Figueroa La de Martin...... DRINKING Chato's Wine Bar...... EATING Casa de las Empanadas...... Colorado...... El Rancho ...... El Terruño...... Heladería Miranda...... Hotel Tinkunaku...... Killa...... Ñusta Hospedaje...... Portal del Santo...... Rusty-K Hostal...... Villa Vicuña...... SLEEPING El Portal de las Viñas...... Hostal del Valle...... Hostal Ruta 40...... Hostel El Balcón...... SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Bodega Nanni ...... El Porvenir...... Museo Arqueológico...... Museo de Vitivinicultura...... Salvador Figueroa...... INFORMATION Banco de la Nación...... La Red...... Locutorio...... Post Office ...... Tourist Information Kiosk...... Bodega Nanni The tour and tastings are short and bright The tour and tastings are Tiny Tiny CAFAYATE 3 2 1 porvenir.com; Córdoba 32) porvenir.com; year with small hand-operated equipment. year with small hand-operated Nearby, sonly 5000 bottles of torrontés and malbec per sonly 5000 bottles of Junio 25; tasting AR$5; 6:30pm Mon-Sat, 11am-1pm & 3-6pm Sun) at Chavarría 151; tours with tasting AR$5; with a cooler welcome. and around the town. Some are small, easy- and around the town. Some are larger, are going and friendly, while others WINERIES WINERIES Several tastings and in tours wineries offer waterfall becomes strenuous and dangerous. becomes strenuous waterfall Nubes ( right ). Note: if the river is high after the river if ). Note: right Nubes ( the to the route and February, rains in January at the nearby house for a few pesos. You could at the nearby house for a few combine this walk with a visit to Bodega de las children will guide you). If you want to ride children your bike out to the trailhead, you can leave lonelyplanet.com tral winery with a lovely grass patio. Its wines grass patio. tral winery with a lovely and drinkable. uncomplicated organic, are friendly family winery in town that produce THE ANDEAN NORTHWEST patio gardenhere isbroken only by theocca- cious dorms suffer from noise atweekends fromnoise cious dormssuffer The rooftop bar’sagreat spot,butthespa- sional pock-pock of tennis. table Cute doubles AR$120/100; 281;dm AR$40,dwith/withoutbathroom .com; Rivadavia itstours hard. sell staff and there’s – amercenaryfeel tothesetup i .com.ar; 20deFebrero 110;dm AR$30-40,d/twAR$180/200; the road. annex withmore roomsablockfurtherdown able roomsandagenerous spirit.There’s an withavarietyofguesthouse simple,comfort- value istobehadatthiswarm-hearted family .com.ar; Catamarca15;rperpersonAR$35; grocery store. blows. Facilities are OK,andthere’s asmall Güemescanget dustywhenthewind General 10 minutes’ walkfromthecenter alongAv tent AR$5/6; Lorohuasi Camping BUDGET rooms andsimple new boutiquehotels poppinguplike mush- with hasnumerousplaces tostay, Cafayate Sleeping andgets4, isthetownfiesta lively. The very worthwhile three-day deCafayate LaSerenata Festivals &Events scenery speaksforitself. travelers before choosing –buttheQuebrada offered –check withother away bytheservice on theplaza. Readers aren’t usuallyblown hire outbikes (aroundAR$35forafullday). (AR$125) toallday(AR$250).Many places Horseback ridesrange fromacoupleof hours more cheaply ifyou’re inataxi twoormore. ing, whileQuilmes(AR$75)canbevisited Day-long tripsto (AR$225)areCachi tir- and RíoColorado(AR$80)are alsopopular. to four-hour treks intheQuebrada(AR$120) more vivid,andcostsaroundAR$60.Three- leaves intheafternoon, whenthecolors are minibus The standard tour of the Quebrada Tours 278 Rusty-K Hostal ElBalcón Hostel Ñusta Hospedaje The maintour operators have theiroffices ) Travelers eitherlove orhate thisplace. Fiesta de la Virgen delRosario Fiesta delaVirgen UU AT RVNE • Cfyt JUJUY &SALTA ••Cafayate PROVINCES iW s ) Thismunicipalcampground )

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( ( % ( ( % % hospedajes % 421852; nusta.hospedaje@arnet 422292; campsitesperperson/ 422031; rustykhostal@gmail , inlate February, isa 421739; www.elbalconhostel folklore on every street. onevery W , onOctober Excellent Excellent ) festival. a 155;dAR$140; delRosario vinias.com.ar; NuestraSeñora This enticingplaceoffers myriadflowering 243;s/dAR$124/186; .com/hostaldelvalle; SanMartín Hostal delValle MIDRANGE &TOPEND out back. relaxed familyatmosphere andahuge pool in aquiet,centrallocation.Theplacehas rather stylishoptionhasclean,modernrooms s/d AR$90/169; a vine-shaded courtyard. floors andspaciousbathrooms,are around set tranquility. Therooms,withterracotta-tiled ing owner,thecentrallocationandgeneral genuine personal welcomefromtheinterest- areing spot.Highlights thecourteous and ultrabudget category, butit’sstillacharm- there’s akitchen. HIdiscountapplies. are adecent deal,breakfast isincludedand central hostel. Private roomswithbathroom but facilitiesandatmosphere are goodatthis Dorms are darkish andcanbealittlestuffy, .com; Av Güemes178;dm/dAR$40/140; General only five dormbeds. budget gem. there Bookahead,though: are and anexcellentattitudemake thisCafayate’s sleep four.sleep viewsand alittlemoretain space. The suites floor (double/suite AR$320/500) have moun- garden andpool area; the rooms onthetop the frontporch andalsothe invitingback arched arcades.Thelowerroomsopenonto hotel thatresembles acolonialpalace withits elegance isthestockintradeof thishospitable .ar; Chavarría250;s/dAR$220/280; sculpture inthecourtyard. hourslose decipheringtheoffbeat mural andbreakfast are good,and youcan Service big bedsandreproduction antiquefurniture. retreat with beautiful,spotlessroomswith aroundtwinpatios,thisoffersset anintimate Belgrano 76;s/dAR$200/300; leged views. with privi- inarooftop conservatory served little cheaper butstillworthwhile. Breakfast is a coupleof smaller,darker roomsthatare a ing bedsandexcellentbathrooms.There are pot plants,andpretty roomswithlarge, invit- Hotel Tinkunaku Hotel delasViñas El Portal Ruta40 Hostel Portal del Santo Portal Vicuña Villa ) Anupgradehastaken thisoutof the aWs

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( ( % 422145; www.villavicuna.com.ar; % 421039; www.welcomeargentina 422400; www.portaldelsanto.com ) Thiswell-pricedifnot 421148; DiegodeAlmagro12; 421689; www.hostel-ruta40

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shops on and Mercado Artesanal 422128. cooperative fea- cooperative leaves three to four three leaves % Jorge Barraco artesanía 9am-10pm) has three to four buses to four buses has three h

(Nuestra Señora(Nuestra del Rosario 132; (Belgrano s/n) . Run by a cordial English-speaking English-speaking Run by a cordial

A short way north of Cafayate, Los Médanos way north of A short is an extensive dune field that gives way to way to dune field that gives is an extensive distinc- a series of the canyon proper, where named and signposted landforms are tive as El Sapo (the from the road. Some, such Taxis congregate around the plaza and can be around congregate Taxis out-of-townuseful for reaching bodegas. If none around, call there’s QUEBRADA DE CAFAYATE Cafayate, the Saltaroad heads North of Quebrada and spectacular through the barren colored richly de Cafayate, a wild landscape of sandstone rock formations. and unearthly Carved the Río de las Conchas, out by the sedimentarycanyon’s twisted strata exhibit a ochre red tones, from rich stunning array of a visual feast While you get green. to ethereal country’s the from the road itself – it’s one of or rides – it’s worth memorable drives more the canyon. parts of taking the time to explore the canyon is in The best time to appreciate when the low sun brings afternoon, the late out the most vivid colors. Colón 157) Getting There & Away El Indio to four daily servicesalso three are to San Carlosbus to and a (AR$5, 40 minutes), at leaving Angastaco (AR$14, two hours) 11am Monday through Friday and 6.30pm on Sunday (no Saturday service). General Güemes & Alvarado) (cnr Av to 6½ times daily for Tucumán (AR$44, five del and Tafí del Valle via Amaicha hours) buses go three (AR$24.50, four hours); Valle (AR$13, two hours). to Santa María Getting Around Drinking Wine Bar Chato’s midnight) place is Cafayate’s boss, this unpretentious to try place bar and a great only true wine and have local drops by the glass fairly priced a chat. Shopping numerous are There The around the central plaza. General Güemes; (Av check fine silver, many locals’ work. For tures out the workshop of daily to Salta (AR$35, four hours). There There daily to Salta four hours). (AR$35, A and and ) Classy, Classy, locro

but it doesn’t , lunch & dinner) PROVINCES de Cafayate •• Quebrada & SALTA JUJUY h 454111; Mitre dishes 24; aiWs humitas, . The gorgeous rooms – . The gorgeous %

No-frills and pretty and pretty No-frills ( and some good chicken and some good chicken Plaza-side seating and Goat stew, local dishes local dishes Goat stew, 03868-15-455836; Mitre 25; mains 422254; www.killacafayate.com.ar;422254; A frequent dilemma in dilemma in A frequent (Av General from cream Güeme; ice (Av locro

421256; www.elranchocafayate.com 422460; Av General Güemes 30; mains 422460; Av % % 421280; Belgrano 26; mains AR$24-42; ( artesanía ( Microbrewed beers, Mexican Mexican beers, Microbrewed

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lunch & dinner) lunch & dinner) ( lunch & dinner)

at this not-too-touristy place, with Killa 10am-10pm) h h . h h folklórica lunch & dinner) El Terruño Colorado La de Martín El Rancho Casa de las Empanadas o lamb fillets. like salmon and avocado salad, salmon and boned and avocado like polite servicepolite up by the food at this backed are curiously has two menus, which restaurant, is less traditional, with dishes which one of AR$30-45; Thai red curry are among the things that make among the things that make curry are Thai red from a break this welcoming bar-restaurant the norm in these parts. h helpful waiters and fair prices. helpful waiters and the odd llama special sit alongside reliable and the odd llama special sit alongside reliable parrillada AR$15-30; winter nights, with a crackling fire, and the and the nights, with a crackling fire, winter nights when a blind guitarist plays unobtru- sive dishes. It’s owned by a bodega, so compe- It appeals on overpriced. tition wines are around the plaza, this has a short, simple simple around the plaza, this has a short, menu, including .ar; V Toscano 4; mains AR$13-25; hit-and-miss places the string of cut above tamales empanadas beyond the usual chicken or or empanadas beyond the usual chicken as well as meat range, tasty local dishes are the reason to come to to come to the reason are tasty local dishes are There the plaza. this friendly spot off Cafayate’s pride and joy. AR$2-24; usually occur in ice-cream parlors. It does parlors. usually occur in ice-cream are the Miranda’s wine ice creams here: Argentina is whether to go for a rich red ca- red is whether to go for a rich Argentina torrontés bernet or a dry white Heladería Miranda AR$4; balcony spaces. There’s a pretty pool area and pool area a pretty balcony spaces. There’s impeccable hospitality. Eating and the upstairs suites – worth the small extra – worth the small suites and the upstairs and private cracking views – have investment warmth by its creative use of natural wood, natural wood, use of its creative warmth by stone and local not a TV bathrooms, great sight in – have comfortable and and well run, this handsome has colonial style given hotel recommendable Colón 47; s/d/ste AR$303/355/396; s/d/ste AR$303/355/396; Colón 47; Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book dishes, spinach and blue cheese salad,dishes, spinach and a THE ANDEAN NORTHWEST enjoyably sleepy feel. enjoyably sleepy del Estero province isabackwater withan road.SouthofCafayate Tucumán, Santiago pre-Columbiantant site isQuilmes, onthe Argentina’s mostimpor-to thewest.Beyond, cleansing airof Tafí delValle, upinthehills energy, incomplete contrastto the lung- logical problems. wealth andlanddistribution,aswell aseco- it hasalsocreated tremendous inequitiesin the province industry, secondary todevelop While thismonoculturetance. hasenabled sugar industryisof great economicimpor- pendence wasfirst declared, andthemassive role inArgentina’s story.Itwashere thatinde- province, Tucumánhasplayedasignificant it’sthecountry’ssecond-smallest Though TUCUMÁN &AROUND ofeasy walkingdistance here. otherattractions aredel Diablo; several within yourexplorationistheGarganta place tostart of water inthishot,dryenvironment.Agood andcarryfoodplenty andCafayate, Salta aware oflater on.Be theschedules between around forawhileandthenflaganotherbus bus (withyourrental bike orbyfoot),tour private vehicle: fromanyElIndio disembark the bus,hitchhiking andwalking. easily hired instead; youcouldalsocombine butnotCafayate,wheresible inSalta bikes are ( Cafayate closer p278 ). Rentingacarispos- mented; it’s much better totake atourfrom canyon. Tours are fromSalta briefandregi- There andexplore are the waystosee several &Away There Getting buy foodorwater. landmarks, butthere’s no reliable placeto andmusicianshoversellers aroundthese some pesosfora bit of ‘guiding.’ you maybefollowedbylocalshopingfor heavals intoextraordinaryconfigurations. visible layers have twisted been bytectonic up- appreciate thetortured clearly stone,whose Gashes intherockwallletyouenter and (Amphitheatre) are much more impressive. Throat)andAnfiteatrodel Diablo (Devil’s the Km49mark,adjacentGarganta Toad) are fairlyunderwhelming,butaround 280 The cityof Tucumánisfullof heatand Here’s withouta thelowdownforthose landmarksareThese heavily visited, and UUÁ RUD • uuá TUCUMÁN &AROUND••Tucumán Artesanía

ferment, whenithosted thecongress that the culminationof the early-19th-century fromtherestguished itself of theregion in Founded in1565,Tucumánonlydistin- History remarks)(flirtatious here. expect higher-than-usual numbers of mano is thecourtshipbehavior of theaverage abitprovincial.neighbors advanced seem Less bitions andtraditional its stylish cafe-bars, great bookstores, artexhi- quality. Italsohasalively culturalscene,and with ablue-collarfeel andadown-to-earth full name)isbakinghot,energetic andbrash, come tolife. of thedayhave lulled,andthe cafes andbars prefer whenthefumesandheat itatnight, spent getting toknowit.Youmayfindyou Tucumánreally rewardsthe usualpatter: time like itatfirst, Thisisn’t butdon’tbeputoff. elsewhere inthenorthwest.Youmaynot tals shock after themore genteel provincial capi- bustlethatcancomeasquite a metropolitan tion’s fifth-largest cityandfeels like it,witha cradle of Argentine independence,isthena- souls initsgreater urbanarea, Tucumán, the onallthree-quartersWith nigh of amillion % TUCUMÁN there’s plentyof optimismabout thefuture. asafuelsourcemeans sugarcane’s growing use years of the 21stcenturyhitTucumánhard,but inthe1960sandearly Economic crises contributedcapital totheindustry’sgrowth. oftransportation sugar,andlocalBritish the railwayreached thecity,permitting easy tage of growing market. thecapital’s By1874 toBuenosAires enough totakeclose advan- frost-free zoneof sugarcaneproduction,itwas tolocation;atthe southernendof portance the from thelate 19thcenturyandowesitsim- after independence. Modern Tucumándates Tucumán successfullyreoriented itseconomy ing Europeansupport. a constitutionalmonarchy inhopesof attract- constitution thatwouldhave institutionalized by Federalist factions,itfailedtoagree ona despite avirtualboycottplished littleelse; soldiers andclergy, thecongress accom- Dominated merchants, byUnitarist lawyers, declared Argentine independencein1816. Unlike othercolonialcitiesof thenorthwest, Tucumán (SanMigueldeisits 0381 / pop 738,479 / elev 420m 0381 /pop738,479elev (inhabitant of(inhabitant Tucumán)–womencan peñas lonelyplanet.com make itsserene piropos tucu-

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THE ANDEAN NORTHWEST )

A a ) 283 Everyone Everyone ) Run with a Run with a ) aiW aW aW 422-9760; www.hotelversaill 425-6974; www.casacalchaqui 425-6974; 421-1828; www.redcarlosv.com 431-0781; www.franciahotel.com; % % ( ( %

( 421-8500; www.dallashotel.com.ar; 421-8500; www.dallashotel.com.ar;

431-0211; Chacabuco 18; s/d AR$85/100; 431-0211; Chacabuco 18; s/d AR$85/100; (

Six kilometers west of the center center the west of Six kilometers % ) and friendly multilingual hosts. and friendly % ( (

parrilla, Traveling salespeople keep returning to salespeople returning keep Traveling ) Hotel Francia Hotel Versailles King Hotel Casa Calchaquí Hotel La Vasca this understated, old-fashioned hotel. The The hotel. old-fashioned this understated, compact and look a little tired rooms are a have for the price, but the public areas dis- will heavily appeal. It often worn stately count prices if you ask; it’s not worth the otherwise. cash Dallas Hotel Corrientes 985; s/d AR$180/235; popu- plenty of are with decent beds. There you sure nearby; make lar bar-restaurants out the beautiful train station also check if you pay It’s 10% off around the corner. cash. Cristósomo 467; s/d AR$190/239; Álvarez decent block from the plaza, this features prints on modern-ish rooms with French the walls and good bathrooms. It will usually for walk-ins. rate lower the above Crisóstomo 481; s/d AR$209/256; estuc.com.ar; Álvarez elegance to is indeed a certain French There with/without bathroom AR$100/83; with/without bathroom AR$100/83; deserves to their room, 3m-high doors to have choice. budget and you can in this central – go for around two courtyards Rooms are the back if you can – and room at an upstairs Staff with original oils by the owner. decorated welcoming. are a fair very things. Prices are in the heart of fills up by by Tucumán standards. It often so you might midafternoon, want to book ahead. MIDRANGE & TOP END aiWs this Buena, Yerba of barrio in the upmarket city. from the sweaty retreat is a welcome lawn, bar service a wide green Hammocks, and Add to spot to relax. it a top a minipool make that comfortable a kitchen bunks and doubles, and restaurants Buena also has many good Yerba a taxi Grab (AR$15) or choices. and nightlife the bus terminal. bus 102 or 118 from opposite Casa out bikes. Calchaquí hires also .ar; Mendoza 289; s with/without bathroom AR$76/63, d .com; Lola Mora 92, Yerba Buena; dm/s/d AR$45/100/140; AR$45/100/140; Buena; dm/s/d Mora 92, Yerba .com; Lola this hotel becausethis hotel it’s comfortable, clean and smile, this likable place has padded doors place has padded doors smile, this likable rooms sizable to reveal way softly that give

also celebrate also celebrate •• Tucumán TUCUMÁN & AROUND 430-2716; www.back % ( 0381-15-609-3336; www 0381-15-609-3336; 422-7636; tucumantur@

0381-15-444-7508; www Día de la Independencia 485-0814; canoasyaventuras@ 485-0814; (Battle of Tucumán) on Tucumán) (Battle of % Tucumanos % ( % ( % It’s easy to like this breezy this breezy It’s easy to like 420-1584; www.tucumanhostel.com ( ) ([email protected]) Reader- ( % (

iWs This reliable hostel is a short walk away is a short hostel This reliable Batalla de Tucumán ) Backpacker’s Tucumán Some companies offering tours: offering companies Some sinectis.com.ar; Crisóstomo 435) Guided trips Álvarez to del Valle including Tafí around the province, spots of interest (AR$100). in Las Yungas and Quilmes (AR$210), or a circuit .montanastucumanas.com; Laprida.montanastucumanas.com; and 196) A cordial canyoning, hiking, climbing, this offers setup, professional and Tucumán both in locations near and more, rappelling further afield. yahoo.com.ar) Offersa long day- canoeing excursions and hike waterfalls to some pretty forest through subtropical (AR$90 per person). .tucumanparapente.com.ar) Excellent tandem paragliding .tucumanparapente.com.ar) Excellent as well as instruction. forests, flights over the Yungas recommended hang-glidingrecommended instructor tandem who offers flights (AR$250 per person). mon areas. HI discount applies. mon areas. high ceilings, the rooms tight but comfortable com- attractive and the cool patio spaces make has a relaxed, airy charm allied to plenty of fa- allied to plenty of airy charm has a relaxed, spacious, with fans and cilities. The dorms are i packerstucuman.com; Laprida 456; dm AR$45, s with/without bathroom AR$100/110, d with/without bathroom AR$120/130; careful not to get brained by falling fruit from not to get careful tree. the avocado clean, as is the kitchen, and there’s also a bar. also a bar. and there’s clean, as is the kitchen, If lounging around the pool at the back, be solid dorm beds and enthusiastic staff, it very a fine base. The bathrooms are makes AR$95/85; Tucumán Hostel Tucumán 669; dm AR$35, d with/without bathroom .ar; Buenos Aires BUDGET BUDGET Most of Tucumán’s hotels are overpriced, but overpriced, are Tucumán’s hotels Most of substantial discounts, par- you can negotiate ticularly if paying cash. the the September 24. Sleeping vigorous in Tucumán, the cradle of the coun- vigorous in Tucumán, the cradle of try’s independence. Celebrations the of Independence Day) on July 9 are (Argentina’s Walter Castro ‘Paco’ & EventsFestivals Turismo del Tucumán Tucumán Parapente Tucumán Montañas Tucumanas Canoas y Aventuras Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book from the lively 25 de Mayo eating scene, and eating scene, 25 de Mayo from the lively hostel seven blocks south of the plaza; with sevenhostel blocks south of THE ANDEAN NORTHWEST 351; dishesAR$2.50-26; and thelike. Delicious andauthentic. aroundempanadas, formed menu,based door/outdoor eatery hasa tiny butperfectly east of Plaza Independencia,thisrusticin- can sortyouout. ice-creameriesseveral aroundtheplazathat ice cream inyourhandatalltimes;there are want toblendinhere, you’dbetter have an ditional andinternational cuisines.Ifyou modern cafe-bars offering avarietyof tra- 25deMayoCalle iseatstreet, studdedwith empanadas, which you’llfindeverywhere. Tucumán isvery famousforitsexcellenteggy Eating aerial excursion. There’s achopper even should youfancyan thisisasitshould be. and anticipatorystaff, sauna ant outdoorpool,babysitting service, and arange of comfortsthat includeapleas- modious (ifnothuge) roomswithgreat views, by thelarge Parque 9deJulio. com- Offering barely three-star comfort.Notsoatthisspot hotels charge thissortof priceforwhatis AR$492/548; com; Av Soldati380;s/dstandardAR$420/480,superior mer; check thewebsite forspecials. with bubbles.Itoffers bigdiscountsinsum- Suites comewithspacetospare andabathtub and thehuge bedsare comfortable. mighty small gymandoutdoorpool–are first-rate, andfacilities–includinga of town.Service market, business-class hotel banginthecenter AR$1040; 230;s/d AR$396/449,stefor4 25deMayo terhotel.com.ar; location. thevery central asdoes up foralotthough, rooftoproom only).Thefantastic poolmakes bythetinybalconies(standing offset slightly cious bathroomsonoffer here are perhaps aiWs 524;s/dAR$346/438; telmetropol.com.ar; 24deSeptiembre rant, thisisadecentTucumánaddress. classic ambience,aswellabusycafe-restau- huge. afinecentrallocationandfairly Offering bedspreads,and bright aren’t fortheycertainly here –itmustbetheparchment-colored walls something rathercharming abouttherooms 330;s/dAR$215/265; 25 deMayo 284 o Park Catalinas Tucumán Center Metropol Swiss Hotel V Carlos Hotel UUÁ RUD • uuá TUCUMÁN &AROUND••Tucumán aiWs El Portal aiWs ) Themodernroomsandspa-

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brick warehouse eatery. It’spopularwithall, withpanache inthisatmospheric are served Thu-Sat) 1199;dishesAR$12-26; 24 deSeptiembre such as dishes, with afewChinese localfavorites fet atthisvegetarian restaurant hasmostly AR$15; can-eat hosted manyArgentine luminaries. here, isthemusic:venue though, has regional specialties.Thereal reason tocome standard as Argentina’s oldest late andgets rowdy. very about 10pm,goes and Saturdaysstarts empanadas. Live aprettycultural events, patioanddelicious putting ontouristyshows. There are regular placeswerewhat these like before theystarted ical andtraditional AR$10-24; Junín 86. portions. There’s anotherbranch nearbyat varioustapas-sized Italsoserves is sky-high. (ofworth it:thestandard thepizzaespecially) and youoften have towaitforatable. It’s pizza &pastaAR$10-25; of chicken posh salads, stirfry, crusted salmon short menufeaturesrestaurant, whose apair bottles decorate thissmart wineshop and 45; cally toavoid theair-con’s arcticwind. delicious of themeat.Try quality andthesheer outforservice but stands thesportsbarlook wasagoodidea?), thought this winsfew pointsfor interior design (who restaurants around inthispartof theworld, 39; menus,aswellàlacarte.other set lunch isAR$19andtherethe set are several allfeature; salad raw mincemeat)andtabouleh Mashed tasty eggplant, cuisine thatmakes awelcomechange of scene. societyoffers Levantine tasty Syrian-Lebanese h thejob. it does empanadas thrownin.It’snotgourmet,but Fon Restaurante El AltodelaLechuza Peña ElCardón Il Postino Setimio La Leñita La Sirio-Libanesa h h lunch daily,dinnerMon-Sat) 7:30pm-1:30am Mon-Sat) lunch &dinner) Foundedin1939andbillingitself h ensalada rusa

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lunch Tue-Sun, dinnerTue-Sat) % h ( % 431-2792; SantaFe 512;dishesAR$28- 422-9196; 25 de Mayo 377;mainsAR$28- 422-9196; 25deMayo lunch Mon-Sat) 421-0440; cnr 25 de Mayo &Córdoba; 421-0440; cnr25deMayo Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels

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( h Oneof thebest folklore % (Maipú 575;setmenusAR$19-28; (Maipú (sweetbreads). Sitstrategi- peña 497-8235; LasHeras50;dishes 7am-2am) 421-8715; Maipú 435;all-you- 421-8715; Maipú

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431-1030; 9 de Julio 110) Art exhibitions, crafts has two daily flights to % 422-9118; cnr Jujuy & Cristósomo ( % flies three times weekly to times weekly to flies three ( 422-0825; Monteagudo 250)

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9:30pm-4am Wed-Sun) 9:30pm-4am h The principal one of several Tucumán The principal one of 430-6400) 422-0606; Laprida 176) 421-6024; 25 de Mayo 265) Cine Atlas Costumbres Argentinas Centro Cultural Universidad de Tucumán Nacional Sample destinations and fares: Teatro Alberdi Teatro % % % major project with 60 platforms and plenty of with 60 platforms and plenty of project major shops and services. The bus ( 33 Destination Bariloche 374 6½ Buenos Aires Cafayate 44 Cost (AR$) 7 4 5 Duration (hr) Catamarca 32 Córdoba 106 180 Jujuy 62 La Quiaca 13 La Rioja 18 Mendoza 165 16 12 Posadas 200 4½ Resistencia 138 115 Río Gallegos Salta 55 59 Salvador Mazza 11 San Juan 499 Santiago del Estero 6 del Valle 110 Tafí 23 de Río Hondo Termas 40 15 138 10 22 2 1 12 2½-3 Getting There & Away Getting There & Away AIR Aerolíneas Argentinas to four daily flights to Buenos Aires’ three Newbery (AR$760). Jorge Aeroparque ( (AR$743), Buenos Aires Tucumán with Rosario, and 9162; Rivadavia 137) Santa Cruz in Bolivia (AR$537). BUS Tucumán’s dress seems like a contradiction in terms, this seems in terms, a contradiction dress like has an and welcoming bar unusual, popular on vibe and sometimes puts arty bohemian a big two-level beer garden There’s music. live sum- is the place to be on which out the back, mer nights. Simple food is also available. ( theatrical and mu- and regular for sale, a cafe, sical performances. theaters. handy tourist office is opposite platform 12. is opposite handy tourist office Álvarez) Juan 666; Juan 666; remaining central cinema. remaining 8pm- pasta can can tucu- On a (quick h choices at boliches minutas 8am-late) milanesas, parrilla . The interior is . The interior h (blended fruit drinks) tucumanos A blessed relief it is to step it is to step A blessed relief 497-5597; Crisóstomo Álvarez 456; 497-5597; Crisóstomo 456; Álvarez (Maipú 791; mains AR$11-22;

TUCUMÁN & AROUND •• Tucumán licuados 422-6066; San Juan 526; mains 422-6066; San Juan 526; mains % 421-9687; Mendoza AR$8; 501; licuados ( 497-8555; Junín 81; smoothies AR$6; 497-8555; Junín lunch & dinner) Round the corner from the lunch & dinner) Round the corner Glasses gleaming on the gantry,

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This intimate and engaging multilevel multilevel and engaging This intimate 7am-8pm Mon-Sat) Cheery in apple green, this place this Cheery in apple green, 7am-8pm Mon-Sat) 7am-1am) lunch & 8pm-late) Also recommended:

Plaza de Almas Filipo Harris Künstner AR$13-26; main eating drag, this does family-friendly meals), as well as tasty empanadas and meals), as well as tasty empanadas other choices. manos menu The short but interesting tural centers. and salads, among kebabs of a range offers many combination cafe-bar-restaurant-cul- late) young place is popular with bohemian outdoor tables and bow-tied waiters make make outdoor tables and bow-tied waiters is superlative, The espresso cafe. this a great and the apple deserve a prize. h the tables and chairs are at the very top of top of at the very are the tables and chairs drinks Excellent mixed the Coca-Cola range. than the food is also more and good coffee; passable. smartly-dressed smartly-dressed padded seats and elegant dark wood; outside, and pizza. busy corner, this is a popular hangout for are brewed in this convivial spot, which also in this convivial spot, which brewed are serves as food such fine cheap off this noisy, fume-filled street into the gentle into the gentle street this noisy, fume-filled off and hops. Four tasty malt beers aromas of h be found in Yerba Buena, 6km west of the Buena, 6km west of be found in Yerba town center. take your pick. Other popular take Lillo. Follow San Lorenzo west from the town Follow San Lorenzo Lillo. the zone and you’ll hit the middle of center, doz- are our map. There blocks west of three and nightclubs to choose bars from – ens of From Thursday to Saturday nights, most of to Saturday nights,of most From Thursday on Calle region, the action is in the Abasto Drinking & Entertainment Drinking & Entertainment h sandwiches, iced fruit smoothies does tasty breakfasts, in or takeoutand salads to eat a little patio – there’s space, too. Los Hornos Bamboo and other toothsome delights. Several toothsome and other wines pick and you can glass, by the available are from the bottles the several hundred any of fee. for a AR$6 corkage shelves lonelyplanet.com a good price. THE ANDEAN NORTHWEST or the offering camping,swimmingand windsurfing, of reservoir formation ondestinations, which includethe offerbusy city.Thetourist offices goodin- pealing daytripsthatget youout of thehot, is knownas ing, departfromTucumán’sbusterminal. site foranout- toLules,apleasant Buses roes. busts of variousArgentine independencehe- licas of colonialdocumentsandaplethoraof hasrep- asaschool. Thesmallmuseum served present ruins date from the1880sandonce assumed controlof thecomplex,whose After the Jesuits’ expulsion,theDominicans sionaries) amongtheregion’s LuleIndians. created(Indian settlement bySpanish mis- south of Tucumán,wasaJesuit Until 1767theruinsof AROUND TUCUMÁN .movilrenta.com.ar; SanLorenzo 370) liable choice is tions onthefront. (AR$1.50) clearlymarktheirmajor destina- AR$22 fromthetowncenter. by publictransport;a 8km eastof downtown.It’strickytoget there BenjamínMatienzo Aeropuerto Around Getting AR$400 fortwoinasleeper. class)/1st class/Pullman (reclinableor seats) arriving at10pmonSunday. at 7pmThursday) and8.50pmonSaturday, trains leftat6pmonWednesday(arriving around noonthenextday.FromTucumán, Monday andFriday,arrivinginTucumánat Buenos Aires’ at10.40amon Retirostation budget. innohurryoronastrictappeal tothose a littlelike stepping backintimeandmight longer thanadvertised, butit’sanexperience frequently take hours west of town.Services ( fromthebeautiful twice aweek Aires (viaSantiagodelEstero andRosario) be, butTucumánisstillconnected toBuenos Argentina’s trainsaren’t to whattheyused TRAIN 286 % The fertile, hillyarea northwest of Tucumán For getting aroundthecity,localbuses The tripcostsAR$45/70/130in At timeof research, trainswere leaving There are car-rental several places.Are- 430-9220; www.ferrocentralsa.com.ar) UUÁ RUD • rudTcmn TUCUMÁN &AROUND••AroundTucumán Parque Sierrade SanJavier Las Yungas El Cadillal Móvil Renta (Dique Celestino Gelsi) Gelsi) (DiqueCelestino , andoffers plentyof ap- San JosédeLules remise .

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( % costsaround , auniversity- inthenorth- % 431-0550; www Estación Mitre turista reducción 426-4906) , 20km (2nd is

1830s, was restored toitsoriginal configura- Jesuits’ expulsion andthenexpandedinthe by theFríasSilva family of Tucumánonthe information at the junction of the pedestrian street. ofthe pedestrian information atthejunction building. ChangesUSdollarsandhasanATM. Orientation Orientation at. ranches tostay There are alsoacoupleof memorablehistoric accommodations andalaid-back scene. air,manybudgetdays, withcrispmountain onthebus. seat trip;grab awindow roadisaspectacular tain Sierra delAconquija. Theprecipitous moun- misty valleybeneaththesnowypeaksof the subtropical forest onallsides–opensontoa verdant –withitsdense, the RíodelosSosas northwest of Tucumán,thenarrowgorge of one:about 100kmthe cityisaspectacular from thesummerheat.Thejourney of Tucumántraditionallyheadto take refuge The lovely hilltownof Tafí iswhere thefolk % TAFÍ DELVALLE here. Tucumán touroperators alsoruntripsout there are afew andthereserve. placestostay) platforms 57to58)runsSanJavier (where while SanJavier (noticket booth, leaves from (AR$5.20,onehour), terminal to ElCadillal 69) runsregular buses from Tucumán’sbus waterfall. SanPedro (gototicket boothNo cluding onetothesmallbutpretty RíoNoque offeringoperated guidedwalks,in- reserve José Friás Silva;admissionAR$2; José Friás This 18th-century CAPILLA LABANDA Sights &Activities office Tourist Banco Tucumán There’s a Information plaza. the unusualsemicircular are near past thechurch. Most publicservices climbsfromPerónof activity,andBelgrano it,Avyou soonjoinit.Off Perón isthecenter to west.Ifyouturnleftoutof the busterminal, Miguel Crittoisthemainstreet runningeast Tafí’s center isatriangleof three streets. Av ternet access. of placesoffering several phonecallsandin- Tafí makes afinespottohangoutforfew 03867 / pop 3300 / elev 2100m 03867 /pop3300elev locutorio locutorio (Av Critto; Miguel (Av Inthe Critto) Miguel Jesuit chapel Jesuit at thebusterminal, one h h 8am-6pm) lonelyplanet.com 8am-9pm) Tourist 8am-9pm) Tourist

( % municipalidad , acquired 421685; Av

THE ANDEAN NORTHWEST

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421330; www.hosteri ( iW % ( 421768; www.lacumbretafidel 420179; www.nomadehostel

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421821; www.estancialastacanas.com; 421821; www.estancialastacanas.com; % % ( (

This stylish and popular hotel and popular hotel This stylish ) Estancia Los Cuartos Las Tacanas Hotel Tafí Hostería Lunahuana Hostel la Cumbre o Nomade Hostel whole place is decked out with interesting and out with interesting whole place is decked decorations, and servicetasteful is professional and friendly. 372; s/d AR$280/310; Perón Belgrano 177; s/d AR$135/170; when you see for things it from the street, inside, with a ski-lodge get once you improve and helpful staff.feel The medium-sized gleaming bathrooms, wood-tile rooms have mountain views and tiny TVs.floors, There’s fire- a pleasant rocky garden, and the huge the area the comfortable lounge place makes night. place to be on a chilly Miguelalunahuana.com.ar; Critto 540; s/d AR$250/330; Av aiW flair – some have with has rooms decorated mezzanines accessed staircases. by spiral The valle.com; Perón 120; dm/d without bathroom AR$40/80) valle.com; Perón the court- of color and ochre happy orange make terrace roof yard and views from the cramped The rooms are this a good choice. and kitchen a decent but clean, and there’s welcoming staff. www.estancialoscuartos.com; Critto s/n; s/d AR$125/189) this lovely from every pore, Oozing character spot with grazing llamas lies between the bus Two centuries and the town center. terminal a museum, with venerable like old, it feels and authentic books lining antique shelves, wood aged with the smell of rooms redolent rooms in a are There and woolen blankets. comfortable beds more new annex that offer true to but less history, although they remain are cheeses Traditional the place. of the feel also made here. from the church, this place offers bright, white bright, white offers this place church, from the and comfortable enough private rooms with – minor inconveniences are bathroom. There for example – but in the rooms, no sockets the price is right. Rustic, comfortable bathroom dorms with and courtyard with sierra views surround a cartwheels. and It’s very artistic stone pillars an and there’s is included friendly, breakfast follow bus terminal, HI discount. From the the first Critto past the tourist office and take about 400m up this road. left; the hostel’s .unlugar.com; Los Palenques s/n; dm/d AR$30/80; s/n; dm/d Los Palenques .unlugar.com; served this fabulous historic and decorated, for ) for Cerro Cerro Cerro Cerro Pelado ‘cabalgatas’ del Valle •• Tafí TUCUMÁN & AROUND or 421170; Belgrano 443; r per person %

( 421768; www.lacumbretafidelvalle.com; 421768; www.lacumbretafidelvalle.com; (six hours); and 4500m and 4500m (six hours); next door. % , a four- to five-hour climb; 3600m to five-hour , a four- (

, reached from the statue of Cristo from the statue of , reached ‘alquilo caballos’ offers various two- to three-hour trips various two- to three-hour offers Set uphill back from the road 100m

museum

Hospedaje Celia The chapel is a short walk from downtown. walk from downtown. is a short The chapel AR$28) distinctly chilly at any time of year. of at any time distinctly chilly about 25% in January, Easter and July when about 25% in January, rooms can get Unheated packed. gets Tafí budget places charging AR$30 per person for AR$30 per person places charging budget dorm rooms without bathroom. Prices rise There are many choices, including several many choices, are There rigorous full-day trips and excursions to the rigorous full-day trips and excursions Quilmes ruins. Sleeping and a traditional cheese factory (AR$70 to more It also organizes AR$90 per person). around the valley on 4WD tracks or taking in around the valley on 4WD sights as the menhir park near El Mollar such La Cumbre 120) Perón Tours Tours rides in the valley. These start about 10 at rides in the valley. These recom- have Readers pesos for half an hour. mended the setupthe bus terminal, opposite out quad bikes. also hires which HORSEBACK-RIDING HORSEBACK-RIDING Several out horses people around town hire (look for come down. takes about 1¼ hours to climb, and less to about 1¼ hours takes office. An easier hike climbs An easier hike office. able; you can hire a guide for about AR$10 an a guide for about able; you can hire information at the tourist for more Ask hour. El Negrito The trails Acheral. Redentor on RN 307 to avail- and no trail maps are badly marked, are El Matadero Cerro Pabellón hiking in the mountains around Tafí del del hiking in the mountains around Tafí 3000m prospect; try an attractive Valle HIKING HIKING Several make nearby peaks and destinations you’ll see 750m. after it on your left Cross the river bridge and follow the road; and follow bridge Cross the river consisting mostly of funerary urns, but also funerary of consisting mostly ecclesiasti- school, the Cuzco art of religious that once furniture and period cal vestments in the Frías Silvas – is on display to belonged the tion in the 1970s. Note the escape tunnel in tunnel in the escape Note the 1970s. tion in – collection small archaeological A the chapel. Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book views over the town. The path starts the town. on the views over It crossed the bridge. left as soon as you’ve THE ANDEAN NORTHWEST as popular forlunch. Regionalspecialtiessuch warm thatched barnof aplaceisincredibly where localscongregate todinecheaply and de Perón; mainsAR$15-25; head the other way to Santa Maríahead the otherwaytoSanta (AR$17, day toTucumán(AR$22, three hours). Buses a Empresa Aconquijahas six toninebuses Critto) Miguel Tafí’s impressive &Away There Getting tention totravel. down there ifthey’ve tosocializeeven noin- an unexpectedly smartplace,andlocalshead range. beer try thelocalartisanal food optionsbutaniceterrace where youcan are quiet. offer. whenthings openevenings Itdoesn’t menu, but live (AR$2extra). entertainment ingenerous portions.There’s oftenserved or order off themenu.Kidneys, the set extras, butthemeatistrulyexcellent.Bypass varies,anditcharges toomuch for service h terracepleasant overlooking thestreet. watch footballormartialartsfilms.There isa meals AR$10-20; Bar ElParaíso Eating &Drinking La Posada Sauzales Camping generations. come fromthefamilythathasowneditfor in acountryretreat, andthere’s awarmwel- it’s inthecenter of town,itfeels like you’re noble furniture andbeamedceilings.Though avarietyofhouse tasteful, rusticroomswith buildings, more thanthree centuriesold, Theadobemost memorableplacetostay. complex wasonceaJesuit 288 of theplaza. campsiteabout1kmwest tent &percarAR$10)Riverside and warmlyfamilyrun.Don’tconfusewithnearbyRosada. opposite thechurch,somewithbalconyaccess. Goodprice, Av Belgranos/n;s/dAR$50/100)Smallbutcomfyrooms locro Kkechuwa Don Pepito The bar-restaurant atthebusterminal is deFélix El Rancho Other options: chivito lunch &dinner) UUÁ RUD • rudTf e al TUCUMÁN &AROUND••AroundTafí delValle parrillada and ( (goat)are allfinechoices andare % is400meastof thetowncenter.

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( and pasta are andpasta alsoon % h h 421880; LosPalenques s/n;per feature heavily onthe 421022; cnrBelgrano&Juan 10am-midnight) lunch &dinner) Thiscozy baris estancia bife dechorizo

( % Mediocre Thisbig, 421031; Av andisa

h Santa María Santa María lage of ElMollar. The site lies12kmsouthof Tafí, nearthevil- being removed fromtheiroriginallocations. have somehowstrippedof been dignityby Tafí culture some2000years ago,butthey surrounding area. Theywere producedbythe stonesfoundinthe standing than 100carved (admission AR$5; around Tafí, including There are attractionsinthevalley several AROUND TAFÍ DELVALLE them. between make acircuitof thevalleybywalkinglink another onthesouthside,soit’spossibleto dle of onthenorthside, thevalley.Onegoes ElPelado,circuit aroundCerro inthemid- domostofter), localAconquijabuses the threeHourly insummer(every hours inwin- Around Getting as Abra delInfiernillo(LittleHell Pass). crossingthe3050mpassknown is spectacular, María,the roadtoSanta QuilmesandCafayate turnoff. via Amaicha delValle andtheQuilmesruins (AR$24.50, fourhours, three tofourdaily) two hours, fourtosixdaily)andCafayate tional goat’s cheese, andisworth visitingfor tional goat’s cheese, Marca Cabra more-than-fair prices. Ontheedge of town, wovenselling goodsandotherhandicrafts at are stored. Nextdoorisan lot more elaborately decorated funeraryurns zone. Ask the backroom,where awhole tosee archaeologicaljewelry fromthisimportant tion of ceramicsandgoldsilver grave Mon-Sat, 10am-1pmSun) Boman Eric plaza, therecommended trees inthesquare Ononecornerof itself. the heroic openinghours, islocated underthe remarkably helpful nine blocksnorthof thebusterminal. A makes afinestopover. It actually province and sits within Catamarca forexploringtheruinsatQuilmes. handy base Tafíbetween delValle andisa andCafayate, This seductive littletownliesontheroute % The plazaisthecenter of town,andlies The roadfromTucumánisbeautiful,and 03838 / pop 10,800 / elev 1900m 03838 /pop10,800elev 7am-11pm Mon-Fri, 8am-10pmSat&Sun) 7am-11pm Mon-Fri,

(cnr Belgrano&Sarmiento;

( h h 8am-5pm Mon-Sat) Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels 8am-6pm) hasaworthwhilecollec- tourist office tourist , acollectionof more Parque delosMenhires Museo Arqueológico Arqueológico Museo artesanía cooperative cooperative artesanía makes tradi- h

( % 9am-7:30pm , with 421083;

, THE ANDEAN NORTHWEST 289 charge Remises (residents of Santiago del Santiago del of (residents . Dense construction sprawls . Dense sprawls construction at the site, as well as a museum. at the site, pucará 0385 / pop 327,974 / elev 200m Quilmes’ thick walls underscore its defen- walls underscore Quilmes’ thick Santiagueños In theory, there is a beautiful hotel and and is a beautiful hotel In theory, there Estero) enjoy a nationwide reputation for for enjoy a nationwide reputation Estero) work. A over and relaxation valuing rest claims that they are joke popular Argentine for champions, world hammer-throwing to be as far away from anything they prefer 5km to the ruins. Easier off the bus is to get jeeps will charge where del Valle, at Amaicha around AR$40 to the ruins, including waiting wanting to go, so people are a few Often time. you may end up paying less. SANTIAGO DEL ESTERO % enjoys the distinc- Santiago del Estero Placid de Ciudades’ (Mother the title ‘Madre tion of this, founded in 1553, was the Cities) for of Spanish urban settlementfirst in what is now no architectural Sadly, it boasts Argentina. a from that period, but still makes heritage pleasant stopover. confitería the govern- research, However, at the time of ment, local Diaguita community and conces- in a prolonged embroiled sion holder were closed.legal battle, so it was all If it’s open, friendly folk selling ceramics will look local your bags and sellafter cold drinks. GETTING THERE & AWAY or Tafí Buses from Cafayate to Santa María at the junction, will drop passengers del Valle to walk or hitchhike you’ll have but from there vived contact with the Inca, which occurred occurred contact Inca, which with the vived not but could 1480 onward, AD from about who in 1667 the Spaniards, of outlast the siege 2000 inhabitants the last deported to Buenos Aires. than purpose, more but clearly this was sive just a nu- and south from the central both north a va- buildings, in the outlines of cleus, where even to the casual obvious are shapes, riety of of extent the of views For revealing observer. up either flank of the ruins, climb the trails the valley vistas of offer the nucleus, which once only glimpsed the city’s defenders. by for intense with no shade, sun Be prepared on exploring fly population keen and a large your facial orifices. AR$40 for the half-hour journey from Santa with waiting time. to Quilmes, more María From Cafayate think AR$70.

El El 0381- Caasama 8am-7pm) %

( h 421004; admis- % Quilmes (

Residencial Pérez , a traditional and ) by the bus terminal, by the bus terminal, that serves good coffee 420897; cnr Esquiú & San Martín; is a picturesque if locally is a picturesque as % ( •• Santiago del Estero TUCUMÁN & AROUND

lunch & dinner) . You’ll need to book ahead in 8am-6pm) h festival in February, which includes includes which in February, festival confitería Museo de Pachamama h from the terminal to the town center center to the town from the terminal , with spotless rooms set, with spotless around a boliche

420257; [email protected]; San Martín420257; [email protected]; 94; s/d 421627; www.hotelcaasama.com.ar; cnr 9 de Julio & 25 de cnr 9 de Julio & 25 de 421627; www.hotelcaasama.com.ar; 03892 03892 / pop 3214 There are several buses are daily to Tucumán There

Eating the plaza include options on There are many places to stay in town, to stay many places in town, are There remise Amaicha is useful to the ruins Amaicha for getting % % many as 5000 people. The Quilmes locals sur- many as 5000 people. that occupied about 30 hectares and housed 30 hectares as that occupied about Dating from about AD 1000, AD 1000, Dating from about AR$5/10; 15-443-6805; Argentines/foreigners Quilmes Quilmes % between Tafí (AR$14, 1½ hours) and Cafayate (AR$14, 1½ hours) between Tafí stop here. (AR$14, 1½ to 2½ hours) at Quilmes, and has several places to stay, and campgrounds. Busesincluding hostels sion AR$10; the harvest. and road, the ornate On the main unusual Pachamama Pachamama music, dancing and a llama sacrifice to bless On the main road between Tafí del Valle and del Valle On the main road between Tafí Cafayate, this dusty settlement has a notable and, indeed, feel is famous for its indigenous Amaicha del Valle Amaicha del Valle % is AR$2.50. A 1½ hours) and two daily to Cafayate (AR$13, 1½ hours) buses via Quilmes. Three a week two hours) go to Belén via Hualfin. hours) (AR$20, five (AR$32, five hours) via Tafí del Valle (AR$17, (AR$17, del Valle via Tafí hours) (AR$32, five and tamales, a set for AR$13 and fuller lunch dining room. meals in the upstairs Colonial del Valle attractive summer months. floodlit tennis court and pumping summer- court and pumping floodlit tennis time accommodations in a colorful provincial gov- provincial accommodations in a colorful includes a big pool, ernment complex that Agosto; s/d AR$135/160; Agosto; unusual comfortable and very offers which ( AR$50/80) plaza near the a cafe behind viney courtyard the somewhat surreal (no sign), and ( the free guided tour, which includes a chance a chance includes which guided tour, the free to meet themselves. beasts the horned lonelyplanet.com including the welcoming including the meals AR$7-20; controversial collection of indigenous art and indigenous collection of controversial setting. indoor-outdoor artifacts in a sizable was a complex indigenous urban settlementwas a complex indigenous THE ANDEAN NORTHWEST evenings. confiterías It’s afineplacefor awander,andhasfew (riverside road)alongtheerraticRíoDulce. pool and,onthe farside,anew has asmallzoo,campingareas, aswimming eucalypt- andcasuarina-filled theenormousblocks fromPlazaLibertad, resembled large armadillos. an extinctfamilyof creatures thatsomewhat also someimpressive fossilsof glyptodonts, filledwithornate There loomweights. case are sition) –aswelljewelry,flutes andalarge remains were put inthepotafter decompo- burial(the forsecondary funerary urnsused of indigenous ceramics–mostlysizable, noble intown.There’s astunningarray thing tosee gist brothers, itisbyfarthemostinteresting collection foundedbytwoFrench archaeolo- h Naturales lery andthe anartgal- ums –thecityhistoricalmuseum, it tothemarket, three itwillhouse muse- as performancespacesandabridge linking the plazainlate 2010orearly2011.As well SantiagodelEstero Cultural ofThe glitzynewdevelopment Sights office tourist Provincial office tourist Municipal wi-fi intheplaza. internet places are widespread. There’s free bridges, Banda. isthetwintownof La On theothersideof theriver, connected by Dulce runstothenortheastof thetowncenter. side of Avs andBelgrano. Libertad TheRío thecity.Street nameschangebisects either Av trending Libertad, southwesttonortheast, fromwhichThe towncenter isPlazaLibertad, streets. the pretty plazaanditsadjoiningpedestrian whenlifeularly intheevenings orbitsaround plenty of bustlearoundthetowncenter, partic- work related aspossible. there’s Nevertheless, 290 plaza. Displaysworkbylocalartists. 10am-1pm&5-8pmSatSun)Onthe 3-9pm Mon-Fri, turismosantiago.gov.ar; Av 417; Libertad Sat) In a kiosk intheplazaitself. Sat) Inakiosk s/n; &information Orientation Named forthecity’sfounderandonly 10 downtownbankshave ATMs,Several and 8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-7pmSat). 8am-8pm Mon-Fri, h UUÁ RUD • ataodlEtr TUCUMÁN &AROUND••SantiagodelEstero 8am-1pm & 5-9pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm&5-9pm 8am-1pm &5-9pmMon-Fri, ( % andbars thatget lively onweekend 421-1380; Avellaneda 355;admissionfree; Museo de Ciencias Antropológicas y deCienciasAntropológicas Museo ( ( % % 422-9800; Plaza Libertad 422-9800; PlazaLibertad isduetoopenon 421-3253; www. h An excellent Parque Aguirre Parque Aguirre 7am-2pm & costanera Complejo

without bathroomAR$40/60; .com.ar; Pedro 405;s/dwith bathroomAR$70/110, León Gallo and deafeningly noisyonweekends. butitcanbeoppressivelyLibertad, crowded and secure area, lessthan1kmfromPlaza shadycampground isnormallyapleasant, Aguirre; perperson/tent/carAR$1/3/1) lasCasuarinas Campamento Sleeping all mannerof drums. center of thecitybysome2000localsbanging de losBombos July, Humahuaca. Duringtheentire of lastweek celebrationsintheQuebradadesembles Santiago’s chaotic Festivals &Events spiral staircase. therestaurantgo through andup a narrow building astheHotel Savoy –toget there, western Argentina. isinthesame Theoffice offers goodtripstootherpartsof north- to theremote Parque NacionalCopo;italso is currently theonlyoperatoroffering tours ( A competent andprofessional setup, Tours AR$450; .ar; Independencia110; s/d standardAR$250/340,dsuperior It’s alsoexcellently located. is attentive. decent showers, and theservice but thesmallish roomsare with comfortable, or slaves fanningyouwithostrich feathers, glance. Sadly,there are nofour-poster beds thisplacelookslike apalaceatfirststaircase, a sumptuousentranceandgorgeous spiral .ar, inSpanish;Tucumán 39;s/d AR$150/210; ofa dose naturallight. askforoneatthefront mind street noise, rooms withsmallbathrooms.Ifyoudon’t stuffy on apedestrianmall,thishasslightly Tucumán 19;s/dAR$135/200; town center. side of town.Still,it’sonlyashort walktothe the citymoved thebusterminal totheother opposite thebusterminal.art andright Then hotel, beautifully decorated withindigenous upawelcominglittle people:theyset these the city.Thecenterpiece of thisisthe % Hotel Avenida Hotel Hotel Carlos V Carlos Hotel Savoy Hotel Palace Hotel 421-3055; www.sumaqturismo.com.ar; Tucumán 39) santiagueños aiWs , aboisterous processionintothe

( ( % %

( ( % % Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels 421-2700; www.palacehotelsgo.com; 421-1234; www.savoysantiago.com celebrate the foundingof 424-0303; [email protected] 421-5887; avenidahotelsgo@yahoo Carnaval ) Byfarthe mostluxuri- a aW ) You have tofeel for

( , inFebruary, re- % Just off theplaza Justoff Thismunicipal ) 421-1390; Parque aW Marcha Marcha With Sumaq )

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‚ To Aeropuerto Mal Paso (5km); Catamarca (150km) ous option in town, this has a great central central ous option in town, this has a great location and rooms with business-level facili- comfortable beds and carpet that ties, large Some rooms could do with a color change. enjoy the city views. a balcony to really have a table and have larger Superior rooms are a gym and sauna as well There’s and chairs. as the indoor pool.

Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book 6 THE ANDEAN NORTHWEST takeout) and,aswellfairly-priced ferent interesting wines (youcanalsobuyto Ithasmanydif- also hasstreetside seating. tive conversion of torestaurant house stately offerings, hasmore imaginative specialslike few few market cheap hasfoodstalls, eateries anda from AR$3; Roca; mainsAR$15-36; outdoor tables right bytheriver right outdoor tables andsnacks,with popular placefor draft beer tends tokickoff around11pm. andcheapsome evenings food.Themusic is abigbarnof a de Vargas; admissionAR$10) delFolclorista La Casa Entertainment Friday nights. meals anddrinks.Itgets busyand lively on and offers decent-qualitybutvery overpriced Nevertheless,house. thisplace ispopular when thebarissizeof atractorware- coziness transmitquite thesame it doesn’t and darkwoodof aBritish-style pub,but Everyone likes thebooths, polishedbrass andspinach. tomatoes pork onabedof mash,sundried mustard AR$22-45; formal service. Spanish touch are accompaniedbycordially cuisine. Elaborate creations and tasty witha belies thequalityandwelcomevarietyof its of theJockey Clubbelongstoanothererabut riders, atmospherepint-sized horse thestaid AR$18-34; a lavalenciana mous and awidechoice of foodthatincludesenor- vegetables (AR$18,orAR$11withamain) There’sneed. barwithplentyof afinesalad well-dressed toyourevery waiters whosee this isadiscreet andreliable restaurant with AR$15-34; surroundings. inno-nonsense Santiago delEstero, served creamery) hassomeof thebesticecream in Armonía Mercado Eating &Drinking 292 Costa Madero Chester La Casa Club Jockey Mía Mamma Heladería Cerecett artesanía UUÁ RUD • rudSnig e seo TUCUMÁN &AROUND••AroundSantiagodelEstero parrilla parrilla h h h h

( ( % % lunch &dinner) dinner daily,lunchSat&Sun) lunch &dinner) 11am-11pm)

shopsupstairs.

( ( % % 421-0433; Av Roca475;mains General 422-4972; cnrPellegrini &Av General

options as well as a tasty options aswellatasty (Costa delRíoDulces/n;

(similar topaella). (Tucumán) peña 429-9715; 24 de Septiembre 15;mains 429-9715; 24deSeptiembre 421-7518; Independencia68;mains (

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Totheeastof town,this (Av 525;icecream Libertad Set backfromtheplaza, Set thathaslive folkbands This 421-7518; Parque Aguirre, Pozo noon-3:30pm &7pm-1am) Strangely emptyof Santiago’sartdeco heladería Thisattrac- h 8pm-late) parrilla (ice- arroz A

547) weekly. Theyalsoleaveweekly. to twiceweekly ( Banda TrainsrunfromLa weekly. 14 Aires–Tucumán trainline,which runstwice 1 isontheBuenos Banda) twin townof La Santiago delEstero (actually,theadjacent 173 TRAIN 7 8 Tucumán 23 Termas de RíoHondo 2 99 San Juan Salta 68 13 109 Rosario 121 Resistencia 6 200 Mendoza 9 10 La Rioja 157 17 Jujuy 77 Duration(hr) Cost(AR$) Córdoba 77 Catamarca 35 7 6 4½ Buenos Aires Destination Sample destinationsandfares: bus intotown,butit’sonlyAR$4inataxi. There’sPlaza Libertad. noconvenient local cnr Perú &Chacabuco) Santiago’s shinynew BUS Argentinas Aerolíneas &Away There Getting lar plaza (San Martín) as welloneof the has twounusual features: ithasatriangu- unless youplanaspatreatment. Thetown tination forArgentines, it’sof littleinterest it’s very wellknownasawinter vacationdes- 200 hotels allhave hotmineralbaths. While famous foritsthermalwaters, anditsnearly its provincial SantiagodelEstero, capital is Termas deRíoHondo, 70kmnorthwestof % Termas deRíoHondo AROUND SANTIAGODELESTERO around townshouldcostAR$4toAR$6. justabout anywherecosts AR$10.Ataxi west of fromthecitycenter downtown.Ataxi (SDE; to Bus 15(AR$1.25)goes Around Getting across theriver tothere. a circuitof Santiago’scenter before heading bus17does Banda; isintheheartofstation La Buenos Aires’ (22hours). Retirostation The % 03858 /pop27,838 fliesdailytoBuenosAires (AR$689). 427-3918) % 434-3651; Av deCiudades) Madre toTucumán(4½hours) twice issixblocksnorthwestof ( % bus terminal 422-4335; 24 de Septiembre 422-4335; 24deSeptiembre Aeropuerto Mal Paso Mal Aeropuerto lonelyplanet.com , 6kmnorth- (

% 422-7091; station

THE ANDEAN NORTHWEST 293 shelters shelters 8am-9pm) Catedral Basílica h 7am-9pm Mon- 7am-9pm) h 437791; www.turismo h 437413; turismocatama (

% % ( ( (Rivadavia and has 520) Cashes traveler’s checks The town of Catamarca of The town immediacy has an 03833 / pop 171,923 / elev 530m San Fernando del Valle de Catamarca, to del Valle San Fernando There are numerous internet and phone numerous internet are There and lively feel, while La Rioja’s calm center while La feel, center calm and lively Rioja’s also are celebration Tinkunaco and moving the to know. Further towards worth getting Orientation the Virgen del Valle, who is the patron of the patron of who is del Valle, the Virgen Catamarca northern Argentina’s and one of since the 17th century. images most venerated The atmospheric cathedral also contains an carvedelaborately altar to St Joseph, an ornate paintings baroque pulpit and an exhibition of places around the central streets. BBVA Municipal tourist office Provincial tourist office Sights Dating from 1859, Catamarca’s de Nuestra Señora del Valle authorities have been energetically promoting been energetically authorities have products, and trade natural the province’s oils and showcasing wines, walnuts, olive fairs full. often are jams mean the city’s hotels central the city its full name, has a lovely give To buildings dot the streets. plaza, and noble Parque of eucalypts town, the huge the west of the by backed are scent the air and Navarro spectacular sierra beyond. Nearly everything is in walking distance in cir- 12 blocks square an area the city center, Belgranocumscribed by four wide avenues: to the north, Alem to the east, Güemes to the to the west. The del Valle south and Virgen downtown is the beautiful Plaza 25 focus of de Mayo. sierra, the remote poncho-making town town poncho-making remote sierra, the Belénwhile of miles from anywhere, feels heritage a fascinating mining Chilecito has and is the base for several excellent excursions mountains. into the lofty CATAMARCA % to feel Catamarca different has a very Vibrant local The this size in the region. other towns of an ATM. Helpful place on the plaza. There’s a desk in the bus There’s Helpful place on the plaza. terminal as well. [email protected]; Av República 446; [email protected]; Av Fri, 8:30am-9pm Sat-Sun) Near the plaza. Professional staff Fri, Professional 8:30am-9pm Sat-Sun) Near the plaza. with excellent information on the whole province. catamarca.gov.ar; Av República 446; Av catamarca.gov.ar;

tourist is six hospedajes (filled sandwich 421513; Las Heras) alfajores % (

in Pampa de los Guanacos in Pampa 03841-15-669206; [email protected]; 03841-15-669206; [email protected]; & LA RIOJA •• Catamarca CATAMARCA on the main street. on the main % (

421571; www.lastermasderiohondo.com; Alberdi 421571; www.lastermasderiohondo.com; bus terminal 7am-9pm) % (

h The town has many banks, internet places places many banks, internet The town has

Before entering the park, head first to the the park, head first Before entering The There are numerous hotels and hotels numerous are There the region has many important archaeologi- the region cal sites. several important pre-Columbian cultures, several cultures, important pre-Columbian who developed mostly maize cultivators and styles, and techniques unique pottery provinces are great fun to explore, and are rich rich and are fun to explore, great are provinces home to in scenery and tradition. Both were CATAMARCA & LA RIOJA & LA RIOJA CATAMARCA these by travelers, little visited Comparatively del Estero and Resistencia. In the park itself, and Resistencia. del Estero a there’s 24km west then north from Pampa, p290 facilities. See but no simple camping area Santiago del Estero. to the park from for tours (where there are simple accommodations). are there (where Daily buses from Santiago run through here ranger office San Francisco Solano s/n) covered 80% of the province as recently as as recently the province 80% of covered 1907. Less remains. than a quarter eaters and jaguars. When visiting the park, and jaguars. eaters forest thoughtit’s a sobering this type of that unusual creatures include endangered tatú include endangered unusual creatures armadillo), ant- species of (a large carretas

this 1150-sq-km national park was created park was created this 1150-sq-km national Chaco it is Nacional the Parque in 2000. Like the quebracho of an important last redoubt some huge are there which of colorado tree, and noble examples in the park. Among the parrot, and several species of are birdlife rich Parque Nacional Copo del Santiago corner of Right in the northeast the Chaco, of on the edge province, Estero stop). Buses run regularly to Santiago del Estero to Santiago stop). Buses run regularly (AR$15, one(AR$8, one hour) and Tucumán further afield. hour), as well as destinations blocks west of the plaza (where all buses also the plaza (where blocks west of remain open slash their prices. There’s a huge a huge There’s open slash their prices. remain restaurants. of quantity (if not variety) from November to April, when those that from November 245; and other tourist facilities. There’s a facilities. There’s and other tourist office tasty chocolates and tasty chocolates cookies). country’s few public monuments to Juan and to Juan monuments public few country’s selling shops numerous are There Perón. Evita lonelyplanet.com strung out along the main street; most close street; strung out along the main THE ANDEAN NORTHWEST enough to come to Catamarca ifyouhave an tocomeCatamarca enough tral courtyard, theAvenida, meters fromthe With plentyof roomsarranged aroundacen- without bathroomAR$30, dwith/withoutbathroomAR$58/45) Convento deSanFrancisco. Take bus101A(AR$1.75)fromoutsidethe and holidays,ithasfiercemosquitoes. spot. It’sloudandcrowdedonweekends riversideAmbato foothills,thisisapleasant Four kilometers westof town,intheSierrade Municipal Autocamping BUDGET Sleeping is similarlyfeted. del Valle. day,December 8,she Onhersaint’s other Andeanprovinces tohonortheVirgen of pilgrimscomefromtheinterior andfrom manifestation of popularreligion andhordes after Easter.for twoweeks Inanimpressive The Festivals &Events deChoya(p296). Gruta guided bicycletours toplacessuch asthe mail.com) tucked awayinanarcade. El Shincal ruins(AR$350).Kidsgofree. It’s Londres and(AR$75), andtripstoBelén, tions, includingGruta de laVirgen delValle 916) .ar; Rivadavia Turismo Yokavil Tours religious section. ground tobacco). There’s alsoacolonialand tosnortlinesofand traysused a spookyshrunken headfromtheAmazon, found at5000mare alsopresent, aswell quality. Acoupleof dehydrated mummies animal decoration–isof trulyremarkable Aguada stylized ceramicswiththeirincised, is ondisplay.Some–inparticulartheblack differentics fromseveral cultures anderas superb collectionof pre-Columbian ceram- interest inArgentine indigenous culture. A 9am-8pmSat&Sun) 12:30pm &3-8pmMon-Fri, ( palm trees. with robustjacaranda,araucaria,citrusand 25 deMayo, atrulybeautifulsquare filled of theVirgin. Thecathedraloverlooks Plaza 294 % Residencial Avenida Residencial Patatí Iskay The fine 437413; Sarmiento450;admissionAR$4; Fiesta de Nuestra Señora delValle Fiesta deNuestraSeñora AAAC AROA • aaac CATAMARCA &LARIOJA••Catamarca canhire you bikes ortake youon Museo Arqueológico AdánQuiroga Arqueológico Museo (

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To Autocamping ‚ front of the building and you’ll be content the building and you’ll be content front of rian.com; República d AR$509; 347; with more color, and some of the windows color, and some of with more but the facilities louvres, irritating fixed have good. guests are of and treatment Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book upmarket hotel is well appointed and coolly is well appointed hotel upmarket room at the a mountain-view modern. Grab THE ANDEAN NORTHWEST panadas AR$2; for wines, olive oil, walnuts,andvarious jams fine naturalproducts; theregion iswell known isenthusiasticinpromoting its Catamarca Shopping this cinemascreens thelatest releases. .com.ar; Av Güemes850) social clubedificenexttothatbuilding. itoccupiespartof thehandsome Catamarca, designed thecathedralandmuch of central architect Namedafternoise. theItalian who races, thisisalittleremoved fromthetraffic night) around Ave GobernadorGalindez. action isinazonenorthof the center onand República westof theplaza,butreal pub There are acoupleof weekend &Entertainment Drinking though. bar (AR$20onitsown)isn’tsoinspired, insisted youdon’twantanymore. Thesalad cutslongafteryou withhigh-quality you’ve some places–rather,itinsistsontempting youwithchorizo firstcynically stuff like in you-can-eat and solicitousspotoffers all- ahigh-class AR$45; clude panadas are onoffer, andmeatyoptionsin- cuisine. TastyCatamarcan andem- tamales offers agreat opportunitytotrytraditional locals, thistypicalrestaurant and 36; to AR$30),available fromnoontillnight. food. Goforoneof thedailyspecials(AR$23 cally restrained filling decorandno-nonsense 32; northwardsfromit. curves Castillo Follow RepúblicaeastwardsthenAve Puente when there’sevenings alive rilla dishes AR$10-32; classic. andaCatamarca tosee, sight on thestreet intwowood-fired clayovens. A or chicken –thishole-in-the-wallcooksthem legendary spotforempanadas–meat,cheese 296 CCA Cinemacenter Caravati Salsa Criolla Los Troncos Open Plaza Los Hornitos El Rincón deLucho El Rincón h h eastof thecenter gets lively onweekend Themostinvitingof theplaza’s ter- AAAC AROA • rudCtmra CATAMARCA &LARIOJA••AroundCatamarca h 8am-late) chivito lunch &dinner) lunch &dinner) ( h %

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( ( % Ontheplaza,thisbright % 457000; Av Puente Castillo65; 423040; www.cinemacenter Theprovince’s most . It doesn’t tryto. Itdoesn’t (suckling pig). Thispopular folklore boliches h parrillada 10am-mid- show. along par-

32. Thepresent image isareplica of thatin onRP 7km northof downtownCatamarca Güemes 850) a un 8 8 4½ 15 98 2 35 Tucumán 32 142 Santiago delEstero 4 25 San Juan 16 Salvador Mazza Salta 91 135 Rosario 125 Mendoza 8 175 11 La Rioja 10 Jujuy 96 Duration(hr) Cost(AR$) Córdoba 73 Buenos Aires 10 5 Belén 20 Destination 4½ and fares aroundthecountry: cinema. Following are destinations sample spruce Catamarca’s BUS of townonRP33,tocoincide withflights. Felipe Varela Hotel Arenales onSarmientoto 15-685208; AR$23) Rioja (AR$211).A and toLa toBuenosAiresthree flights weekly (AR$975) Argentinas Aerolíneas AIR &Around There Getting ments andbasketry. jewelry, red onyxsculptures, musicalinstru- market arange alsosells of ponchos, blankets, rugs,the market.visit thisartisans’ Besides characteristic hand-tiedrugs, For Catamarca’s Alfombras the plaza. alongSarmientoandRivadaviaing these near There are shops stock- several and conserves. by anindigenous groupwho hadmoved south the ruinsof a9th-century-AD built settlement the campground, Francisco monastery. 40 minutes (AR$1.75)fromoutsidetheSan deChoyaevery totheGruta bus 104goes ture shelters Empresa Cotca’s thegrottoitself. cathedral,andaprotective struc- Catamarca’s Choya of theVirgen delValle appeared in According tolocallegend, in1619theimage AROUND CATAMARCA Mercado Artesanal Permanente y Fábrica de yFábrica Permanente Artesanal Mercado Six kilometers westof town, notfarfrom

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( % bus terminal 424460; Sarmiento589) h , some22kmeast minibus lonelyplanet.com 8am-1pm &2-8pm)

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lunch 297 Museo Museo h wine lunch & dinner) ) It’s hard to patero , but festivities , but festivities h ai cheap cheap 461304; turismobelencat@461304;

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( 461501; www.belencat.com.ar; cnr 461250; Calchaquí 213; s/d AR$40/60) % ( Día de la Fundación

% (cnr Lavalle & Rivadavia; admission AR$2; (

7am-1pm & 2-10pm Mon-Fri,7am-1pm Sat, 8am-10pm

tourist office in town. It features an attractive an attractive in town. It features by the bus terminal, and another at by the bus terminal, 461100; Belgrano 391; mains AR$14-26; (Roca 74; mains AR$12-34;

h (thatch-roof hut), (thatch-roof % (

Beyond-the-call service to this is the key dates from 1907 and faces Plaza Olmos 1907 and faces Plaza from dates parrilla 9am-noon & 1-8pm Mon-Fri) El Único Hotel Belén 1900 There’s a There’s the plaza. It’s very popular, but it hates to turn popular, but it hates It’s very the plaza. ta- of reshuffling people away, so a Tetris-like ’em. Prices are bless bles is a constant feature, large a number of are than fair, and there more sal- Well-mixed designed to be shared. platters highlights. are ads and juicy brochettes begin at least a weekat earlier with a dance The wel- basic rooms with bathroom and TV. come isn’t exactly effusive, but that’s life. Belgrano & Cubas; s/d AR$159/181; exists in hotel believe that this superstylish Belén Catamarca (thank the enlightened gov- back). The exposed years a few ernment of rock bathrooms, with inlaid-tile mosaics on extremely and wall, and grotto-like, the floors unusual and a delight. comfortable rooms are & dinner) a block down fromhighly enjoyable restaurant bronze axes, gold-leaf jewelry and an illus- gold-leaf jewelry and an bronze axes, on hal- information panel (in Spanish) trated uselucinogen among the Diaguita people. & EventsFestivals officially celebrates On December 20, the town its founding, blocks the Cerro three the foot of de la Virgen, leads to A steep 1900m trail the plaza. west of side by side with a the Virgin, a 15m statue of the Christ child. of 4.5m image Sleeping & Eating Hotel Gómez on the main hotels cheap a handful of One of patio and road, this spot has a plant-filled gmail.com; gmail.com; 9am-10pm Sun) similar hours. keeps 180, which General Paz Sights brick The neoclassical Belén pines by is well shaded which y Aguilera, at Up some stairs and colossal pepper trees. arcade, the a little shopping the end of Cóndor Huasi h some fine collection, including archaeological A block and a bit west of the plaza, this is the A block and a bit west of best quincho and friendly service.

, near , near is great value, value, is great LA RIOJA •• Belén & CATAMARCA (textile workshops) workshops) (textile Villa Las Pirquitas teleras (colonial labor system) of of system) (colonial labor Hostería Provincial Las Pirquitas where the shallows are too muddy too muddy the shallows are where ,

encomienda 03833-15-584944; s/d AR$30/50) 03835 / pop 11,003 / elev 1250m Before the arrival of the Spaniards in the Before the arrival of From Catamarca’s Empresa bus terminal, Free camping is possible at the basic river at the basic river camping is possible Free

The Sierra de Famatina, the province’s the province’s de Famatina, The Sierra % 180km southwest of Santa María. 180km southwest of In the western highlands of Catamarca, highlands of In the western Belén capital and is 289km from the provincial ans of the Diaguita wars, on the condition that the Diaguita wars, ans of in the area. they support evangelization Orientation & Information Diaguita resistance. More than a century than a century More Diaguita resistance. the priest José Bartolomépassed Olmos before divided a land grant among veter- de Aguilera nearby Londres, a Spanish settlement that nearby Londres, several floods and shifted times because of Juan Ramírez de Velasco, founder of La founder of Rioja, Juan Ramírez de Velasco, with intertwined but its history is intricately Inca empire. After the Inca fell, it became it became fell, the Inca After Inca empire. the mid-16th century, the area around Belénmid-16th century, the area was the Diaguita periphery of on the territory, dotted around town, turning out their wares around town, turning out their wares dotted and alpaca wool. The made from llama, sheep reason another are El Shincal nearby ruins of to visit. goods, particularly ponchos, in Argentina. in Argentina. goods, particularly ponchos, many are There friendly. It’s got an excellent place to stay friendly. It’s got an excellent place to stay the best places to buy woven and is one of long way from anywhere, and will appeal and will appeal long way from anywhere, things small-scale and who like to travelers % Belén and is, a like, feels Slow-paced little BELÉN BELÉN You can catch it on Salta betweenYou can catch Esquiú and Prado. Cotca’s bus 201 leaves hourly for the village. hourly for the village. Cotca’s bus 201 leaves ( with clean and comfortable rooms, and a bar meals. cheap with pool table and very beach for swimming. Catamarca via RN 75. The foothills en route hospitable with people small villages shelter architecture. vernacular and interesting road to picturesque road to picturesque the same of name, 29km north the dam of highest from the is visible mountain range, to see, however; walls re- only low foundation (AR$1.75) from outside bus 101A main. Take monastery. the San Francisco from the puna, perhaps driven by extreme by extreme driven the puna, perhaps from deal a great not There’s conditions. climatic Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book THE ANDEAN NORTHWEST destination served dailyatareasonable hour destination served four tofive hours) istheonlylong-distance (AR$20, andCatamarca underused, is sadly block southandonewestof theplaza, and looks after the site. one of thewelcoming familythatlives here altars. Entrance usuallyincludesatour by asbothlookouts and they probablyserved square. sun, Alignedtotherisingandsetting climb twohillocksoneithersideof thecentral barracks) have restored, been andyou can emonial platform)and excavations beganin1991,butthe The site waspretty ruinedwhen thoroughly viewsand greatwith fantastic atmosphere. isspectacular, valley tothesouth.Thesetting thevast foothills of surveying themountains, town occupiedacommandingpositioninthe are wellworthvisiting.Foundedin1470,the ruins of of February. Festival) takes placehere thefirst fortnight delaNuez Festival Provincial Mary of Tudor,queen England,in1555.The prince of Spain(andlater KingPhilip II)to name (London)celebrated themarriage of the uprisingofagain duringtheDiaguita 1632.Its ing here fled in1612,andtheinhabitants itmovedthough timesbefore several return- Itdates from1558, oldest Spanishsettlement. Londres (population2134)istheprovince’s sleepyOnly 15kmsouthwestof Belén, Shincal El & Londres AROUND BELÉN to Catamarca. María. orSanta Catamarca andTucumán,youcanchangeFor Salta at MaríaSanta (AR$20,fourhours) viaHualfin. to aweek 14 hours), aswellfourbuses (AR$30, five hours) andCórdoba (AR$83, Rioja toLa (1pm). There’s service anight Belén’s &Away There Getting shipping. prices, acceptsmajor credit cardsandarranges del Poncho wine. Formore upmarket woven goods, camelid-wool clothingandfoot-troddenlocal of friendly There’s off theplazawithanumber amarquee Shopping 298 Seven kilometers westofSeven Londres, theInca Hotel Belén has irregular minibus service hasirregular minibusservice Hotel Belén AAAC AROA • rudBln CATAMARCA &LARIOJA••AroundBelén bus terminal El Shincal

( % artesanía 461091; Roca144)

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(cnr Sarmiento&Rivadavia) stalls selling ponchos, selling stalls kallanka (Provincial Walnut hasreasonable h (possibly a ushno 8am-sunset) , one Cuna Cuna (cer- behind are actuallycascadesof finewhite ley; the‘snowdrifts’visibleonmountains proudabovestand theusuallydryriver val- amazingreddishturnoff, rockformations mal bathcomplex;alittlefurthersouthof the west, the museum. Next tothechapel isasmallarchaeological of desert. cultivated fieldsandthedistant leads toamiradorwithpanoramicviews 142-step staircase small promontorywhose tive pinkchapel, datingfrom 1770,beneatha midst of abarren landscape,ithasanattrac- Hualfin. Surprisinglygreen andfertile inthe lar RN40isthegrape-growing village of About viaspectacu- 60kmnorthof Belén Hualfin excellent. Sierra Famatina tothewest,androadis drive one,withtheimposing isaspectacular along RN40,ifyouhave The transportation. Rioja provinceChilecito, 200kmawayinLa ple of basic and acabincomplex.Londres alsohasacou- Londrescampground between andtheruins, to aspotshort walkfromtheruins.There’s a toLondres (AR$2),thatcontinue from Belén person AR$30) sand. Beyond Londres, youcanheadonsouthto Beyond There MondaytoSaturday are buses seven Hospedaje AltaHuasi Two kilometers south,andafurther2km Antofagasta tion available,in cluding the Fiesta delaPuna livestock- andtraditionalculture–based visitinginearlyMarch forthe larly worth where flamingoescongregate. It’sparticu- canoes, pumicefields,saltpansandlakes landscapeof a spectacular guanacos, vol- on Monday andFriday. Friday (AR$60, 12hours),returning atnoon Catamarca at6:15am Wednesdayand ince. This Andes inthefarwestofCatamarca prov- AntofagastadelaSierra you’re sure toappreciate out-of-the-way gettingoffthebeatenIf youlike track, WAY OUTWEST s/n; s/dAR$65/87) Termas delaQuebrada , 1km along the Santa María, 1kmalongtheSanta road

puna villagesitsat3320mamid residenciales

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299 7pm- chaya chaya 9am-1pm h is set in Convento h is Argentina’s is Argentina’s Convento de San Convento de San Museo Folklórico (cnr Av San Nicolás de Bari (cnr Av

(stretched leather used (stretched , run by monks, has a (cnr Pelagio Luna & Lamadrid; Luna (cnr Pelagio (people who live in La La in (people who live lagar lagar

catedral (Alberdi 650; admission AR$2;

contains the image of patron patron of contains the image riojanos (cnr 25 de Mayo & Bazán y Bustos;

museum houses the image of the Niño Alcalde, the Niño Alcalde, of houses the image 428500; Pelagio Luna 811; admission by donation; by donation; 811; admission Luna 428500; Pelagio 9:30am-12:30pm & 6-8pm Mon-Fri)9:30am-12:30pm 9am-1pm & 4-8pm Tue-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat & Sun) The enormous and spectacularThe enormous and neo- The curious neo-Gothic The curious neo-Gothic % from the region from a number of different different from a number of from the region cultures. Activities & Tours Several around run excursions operators including visits to the Parque the province, includes invariably which Nacional Talampaya, of the region’s culture. Themes include culture. the region’s of (local La music) and the Tinkunaco Rioja (with bright traditional weaving festival, with plant extracts) and wallhangings colored winemaking. The a sight, as is the grapes) is quite for treading the room that deals with mythology, includ- to required rituals ing a demanding series of sell your soul to the devil The hereabouts. guided tour is excellent if your informative Spanish is up to it. MUSEO INCA HUASI blocks from the plaza, this curi- A couple of ous ceramics pre-Columbian notable collection of as the city’s mayor (see the boxed text, p301 , , p301 text, as the city’s mayor (see the boxed for details). Byzantine 1899 & 25 de Mayo) devotion saint Nicolás de Bari, of an object for both neighboring the inhabitants and of Rioja) provinces. MUSEO FOLKLÓRICO worthwhile The hugely ( h build- a wonderful early-17th-century adobe ing, and has fine displays on various aspects Sights Sights BUILDINGS LANDMARK devotional so La center, is a major Rioja in ecclesiastical. Built are most landmarks of Diaguita1623 by the direction under the the picturesque friars, Dominican de Santo Domingo h in the appears The date oldest monastery. carved also the work algarrobo doorframe, Diaguita artists. of Francisco 9pm) a Christ-child icon symbolically recognized icon symbolically recognized a Christ-child & 4-8pm, Sat 9am-1pm Tue-Fri ) 8am- h 8am-9:30pm) h 426345; www.larioja % ( (Plaza 25 de Mayo; LA RIOJA •• La Rioja & CATAMARCA (Av JD Perón 324; per load AR$15) 324; per load AR$15) JD Perón (Av (Av San Nicolás de Bari San 502; per hr AR$2.50) (Av

(Av San Nicolás de Bari 476) Changes US dollars. (Av 03822 / pop 143,684 / elev 500m Juan Ramírez de Velasco founded Todos Juan Ramírez Velasco de Minibuses twice daily from Belén run to

North–south streets change their names their names change North–south streets The city’s appearance reflects the con- The city’s appearance reflects

LA RIOJA Orientation .gov.ar/turismo; Pelagio Luna 345; Luna Pelagio .gov.ar/turismo; Helpful. 9:30pm) On the plaza itself. Telecentro Provincial tourist office Municipal Tourist Kiosk BBVA Mama Espuma Information Information at San Nicolás de Bari, but east–west streets at San Nicolás de Bari, but east–west streets continuous. are walking distance of each other. each walking distance of Velasco, La Rioja is relatively small, with all La is relatively Rioja Velasco, within easy and most hotels interest points of At the base of the picturesque Sierra de Sierra de the picturesque At the base of local materials. Many early buildings were early buildings were Many local materials. destroyed in the 1894 earthquake. and colonized: the architecture combines combines and colonized: the architecture and techniques European designs with native flict and accommodation between colonizer colonization of what Vásquez de Espinosa what Vásquez colonization of Paradise.’ called ‘a bit of and made peace with the conquerors (see and made peace with the conquerors the way for Spanish ), paving p301 text, boxed los Santos de la Nueva Rioja in 1591. The The in 1591. los Santos de la Nueva Rioja converted were here Diaguita tribe who lived might consider stopping off here – it’s halfway might consider stopping off here and Salta a tour – to take between Mendoza national and Ischigualasto to the Talampaya parks. sunny day. And there are plenty of sunny sunny of plenty are sunny day. And there rise sky-high in days: summer temperatures this quiet, out-of-the-way capital. provincial highlights on a short tour, you if you’re Even Encircled by the graceful peaks of the Sierra peaks of Encircled by the graceful a sightLa on a is quite Rioja de Velasco, % week) stop here. also Hualfin (AR$7, 1½ hours) from Monday Monday from 1½ hours) Hualfin (AR$7, to Friday; Belén–Santa buses a (four María from the church, offers simple accommoda- simple offers church, from the locally grown look for Around town, tions. goat’s slices of on creamy paprika sprinkled cheese. lonelyplanet.com On the plaza. Internet and telephones. On the plaza. Laundry. THE ANDEAN NORTHWEST mals that make itagreat zonefor hang-gliding Rioja areaThe La drop-offs andther- hashigh Terra Riojana Corona delInca destinations). on these boxed(see text, p305 , formore information parts of theAndesinwestof theprovince panies alsooffer excursions remote tohigh, AR$180 toAR$210perperson.com- These day triptothetwoparkstends tocostaround vary accordingtonumbers, butthe13-hour (‘Valle delaLuna’)inSanJuanprovince. Rates the nearbyParque Provincial Ischigualasto 300 H Yrigoyen 240) H Yrigoyen .ar; Pelagio Luna 914)

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Also recommended: Naindo Park HotelNaindo Park King’s Hotel Plaza Hotel Diciembre 524; s/d/tw without bathroom AR$30/50/60, s/d Diciembre with bathroom AR$40/70) Dark but decent rooms with fan for a pittance. Eating Eating Regional dishes to look for include empanadas, tel.com; Av San Nicolás de Bari 475; s/d AR$374/430; tel.com; Av aiWs has Lanating it assertively, finest hotel Rioja’s servicean excellent level of and and comfort particularly are The rooms prices to match. good views. spacious, and many have Camping Alameda Park Residencial Florida King’s has a few gray hairs appearing, it still appearing, gray hairs few King’s has a space and have The rooms has atmosphere. comfortable enough, big pluses but the are the service,are and the pool, buffet breakfast gym. sundeck and San Nicolás de Bari AR$228/261, s/d supe- 502; s/d standard Av rior AR$320/341; from inside deal better looks a great this hotel are the plaza than out. Rooms overlooking nicer than those much looking onto internal also available; light are wells. Superior rooms and king-sized beds. a newer feel they have 75, Km 9; campsites per person AR$10) Best and closest catch city bus 2 or campground west of town; to get there, 5 southbound on Perón. 107; s/d AR$160/280; 107; s/d (lieutenants) with uniform and flag. The ‘Diaguita,’ ‘Diaguita,’ The with uniform and flag. (lieutenants)

) aW alféreces alféreces Definitely a a Definitely ) LA RIOJA •• La Rioja & CATAMARCA 438580; www.granhotel ai What was formerly % ) (

422005; Av JD Perón 1290; s/d 1290; JD Perón 422005; Av 424836; Coronel Lagos 476; s/d 424836; Coronel 426955; cnr Copiapó & Dalmacio % % % ( (

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Offering for two, excellent value ) aiWs wear headbands with mirrors and ponchos. The processions meet, and solemnly all fall meet, and solemnly all fall processions The wear headbands with mirrors and ponchos.

aillis, The Tinkunaco (the word means ‘meeting’ in Quechua) commemoration commenced not long in Quechua) commemoration commenced not long (the word means ‘meeting’ Tinkunaco The after these historic events. Every year at noon on December 31, two processions – one representing year at noon on December 31, two processions – one representing Every these historic events. after ‘Spaniards’ The de Gobierno. at the Casa the Spaniards, one the Diaguita – cross town and meet and penitents as religious dressed are (mayor) resign and that his replacement be the Christ child. The Spaniards agreed and peace and peace Spaniards agreed be the Christ child. The and that his replacement (mayor) resign new mayor became known as Niño Jesús Alcalde. The was made. or It’s a powerful the image of the Niño Jesús Alcalde, then embrace. moment to their knees before and compromises. with a deep message about cultural differences The fascinating and moving El Tinkunaco ceremony is a symbolic representation of the resolution of the resolution is a symbolic representation ceremony El Tinkunaco fascinating and moving The de Velasco When Juan Ramírez at the founding of La Rioja. that occurred of the clash of cultures the fact that the land was owned and farmed by founded the city in 1591, he blithely ignored being carved territory the Diaguita, who naturally took exception to their Spanish up among in 1593, and a bloody conflict by the mediation of the friar was averted rebelled They settlers. to the cleric and listened Diaguita trusted for his efforts. The canonized Francisco Solano, later to down their arms on two conditions: that the Spanish then agreed They his message. EL TINKUNACO – CONFLICT RESOLUTION IN THE 16TH CENTURY IN THE 16TH CENTURY – CONFLICT RESOLUTION EL TINKUNACO Hotel Talampaya Gran Hotel Embajador Residencial Anita Pensión 9 de Julio Pensión Sleeping Sleeping at this price (especially the singles), and have at this price (especially the singles), and have excellent bathrooms and noisy balconies. here. also a good restaurant There’s the Hotel Turismo has been taken over by Turismo has been over the Hotel taken good The rooms are the nearby King’s Hotel. AR$140/250; and is popular as a result; reservations and is popular as a result; are advised. some have balconies. It offers plenty of value, plenty of balconies. It offers some have rooms in a central part of town. A shady, town. A shady, of rooms in a central part the plaza of overlooking patio vine-covered the same bonus. The draw- name is another back is substantial traffic noise exterior from rooms. Vélez Sársfield; s/d AR$80/100; Vélez Sársfield; s/d AR$80/100; clean and pleasantgood deal, this place has Rooms are very clean, with spotless bath- clean, with spotless very Rooms are patio the plant- and saint-filled rooms, and bonuses. It’s not the and plump pet dog are you rolling that will appreciate place sort of in pissed at 4am. the quiet and proper Anita is a few blocks proper Anitathe quiet and a few is district. in a residential center away from the La Rioja’s hotels often offer discounts if you if you discounts offer often La hotels Rioja’s afraid to bargain. aren’t pay cash and Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book AR$80/95; embajador.com.ar; San Martínembajador.com.ar; 250; s/d AR$95/130; This cheery place is very tidy; the rooms up- place is very This cheery and sunnier – a good thing larger are stairs you – and oppress color schemes if dark-red THE ANDEAN NORTHWEST menu here atthissimplebuteffective local with aHalloween theme. (San Martín 162) (San Martín ful the ColegioNacional, andpacked andcheer- are latest moves. Twoof themostpopular options of discoswhere youcanshowthelocalsyour If you’re upforalate there’s night, anumber Entertainment busy kitchen. too, andwonderfulsmellswafting fromthe There’s Rioja of a fairselection La the a longmenuof Argentine standard dishes – gional specialties,creative choices and house is acrackingplacewithgreat range of re- AR$19-44) regional specialties. at thisspot,whenitoffers agoodrange of dinner options,lunchtime istheplacetobe breakfasts andafairlypredictable range of 10am-3pm Sun) 756; lunchesAR$18-25; dishes inanintimateItalian environment. and upimaginative seafood restaurant serves to eatintown,thisfriendlyneighborhood h on hand,too. near theplaza. There’s goodcheap Rioja wine make thisapopularchoiceoutdoor seating and withbigflatscreenpizza andpasta TVs h licuados are wellprepared andfairlypriced. Thefruit eatery. 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(AE Dávila 70; . It’s on the way to Samay Huasi about . It’s on the way to Samay Huasi about Cuesta Vieja Cuesta Yops 03825 / elev 1300m and 423854; www.salirdelcrater.com.ar; 25 de Mayo 87) 423854; www.salirdelcrater.com.ar; Though only a trickle of water winds through water Though only a trickle of as translates language, what, in the Quechua the spectacular the Trees,’ of the ‘Dry River this national rock formations and canyons of far action of the erosive evidence of park are It’s a dusty desert water. quantities of greater nights, infrequent days, chilly scorching of Getting There & Away Getting There & Away the is 1.5km south of The new bus terminal near the Museocenter, del Cablecarril. There services regular are to La (AR$22, three Rioja and beyond to Rosario, Buenos Aires hours), and other cities. no are and in half an hour less. There more buses north to Belén; the lengthy to avoid backtrack through La and Catamarca Rioja you and stay in Belén. a tour to Shinkal could take PARQUE NACIONAL TALAMPAYA % Atmospheric and darkish, this bohemian spot bohemian this Atmospheric and darkish, servingis comfortably Chilecito’s best cafe, Watch drinks. mixed and decent fine coffee battles. the locals’ epic chess Entertainment a Saturday night, in Chilecito on If you’re out castle-like you’ll want to check mission AR$10; coteca fun. Girls get town, and a lot of 1km out of and you may evenwin a in a little cheaper, or similar in the prize draw. motorbike minibuses also do the La AR$8 run for Rioja % (

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aiWs Seven blocks Salir del Cráter Talampaya Nacional •• Parque & LA RIOJA CATAMARCA Just the sort of Just the sort of run these trips, which cost around AR$150 to AR$250 per person around AR$150 to AR$250 per person run these trips, which cost 422481; Av Pelagio Luna Luna Pelagio 422481; Av % ( Right on the plaza (as

422201; hotel_acachilecito@hot lunch & dinner) (chicken stew: yum), and stew: (chicken % h ( lunch & dinner) 423641; www.inkanan.com.ar; Martínez 49)

. 425988; cnr 19 de Febrero & Roque Lanús; 425988; cnr 19 de Febrero h % 422696; 25 de Mayo AR$10-25; 58; mains (

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parrilla Operators in town such as Operators in town such as breakfast, lunch & dinner) breakfast, depending on numbers. There’s usually a minimum of two people, but it’s always worth usually a minimum of two people, but it’s always asking. There’s depending on numbers. available, too. trips are multiday Tailored Inka Ñan TRIPS AROUND CHILECITO CHILECITO AROUND TRIPS portion western destinations in with plenty of intriguing is fascinating, The La Rioja of province Nacional Parque excursions. pad for a range of excellent Chilecito is a launch the sierras, and park takes trip, which also ) is one appealing provincial in the Ischigualasto below ( Talampaya Northbound Miranda crosses the picturesque ) and pass. up RN 40 take jaunts in the ruins p373 ( some serious 4WD mountain while for Fiambalá, at hot springs or the remote ) p298 ( of El Shincal action, an ascent that takes mine at La Mejicana (4603m), up to the abandoned head in some Deeper into the including a striking of colors, and broad palette amazing scenery river. yellow flamingo-filled lake by awe- surrounded Laguna Brava, a is sizable sierras by the Chilean border Andean scenery. Highersomely bleak and beautiful 5600m, is the sapphire-blue still, at crater lake only accessible in summer. of Corona del Inca, .com; Joaquín V González 467) La Posta El Rancho de Ferrito Hotel Chilecito on the pretty good, especially the empanadas cooked good, especially the empanadas cooked pretty tive (stewed goat with torrontés, for example) (stewed tive doesn’t taste The presented. and attractively up to the service live quite or decor, but it’s mains AR$22-59; place you wouldn’t expect Chilecito to have, restaurant stylish it is – an intimate, and here of and lined with shelves warmly decorated innova- deli products on sale. The dishes are mosphere make it truly excellent. make mosphere local wines – but the quality, price and at- is worth every step. You’ve seen You’ve the menu is worth every step. – except for house as specialties such before de gallina cazuela 647; mains AR$13-26; There are various set meals for AR$24 to are There AR$32, and all-you-can-eat pasta for AR$16. the name suggests), this warmly decorated this warmly decorated the name suggests), specializes in tasty pizza and pasta. restaurant La Plaza h and pleasant, with tiled floors and gleamingand pleasant, floors with tiled also a decent restaurant. bathrooms. There’s Eating & Drinking here, with a garden and cavernous recreation recreation with a garden and cavernous here, light, brightroom (pool table). The rooms are among rocky hills, this ACA establishment of- among rocky hills, this ACA space to burn fine value for money. There’s fers mail.com; T Gordillo 101; s/d AR$117/156; mail.com; T Gordillo 101; s/d AR$117/156; the town ends where With a quiet location near Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book from the plaza, this inviting local restaurant from the plaza, this inviting local restaurant THE ANDEAN NORTHWEST © Lonely Planet Lonely © © the clericalfigure of ElMonje. formationand is aguaranteedhit,theCatedral impressiveChimenea delEco,whose echo effect asthe such highlights by, inthecanyonitself, 2½-hourvisit(AR$65),followed the standard oxidized slabs are sandstone thefirst stopon canyon floor. varieties of algarrobotree alongthesandy intheshadeof theseveral maras canbeseen soar onthethermals,and guanacos, rheasand Condors cliffs. bounded bysheer sandstone deTalampayaCañón , ausuallydrywatercourse The focusof mostvisitsisthespectacular Sights &Activities guided visitstothepark. (AR$8 forArgentine citizens),andarrange lampaya.gov.ar; Juan’s Parque Provincial Ischigualasto. north of theturnofftoSan LosBaldecitos, 26, itis58kmsouthof VillaUniónand58km de Mirandaroute, RP18and26.Via via acombinationof RN40’sscenicCuesta Talampaya is141kmsouthwestof Chilecito &Information Orientation have transport. ( p373 ) andit’seasytocombinethetwoifyou Provincial Ischigualasto inSanJuanprovince Talampaya isadjacenttofossil-rich Parque are surroundingmountainscapes. thedistant are cliffs amazing,as winds. Thesandstone but torrential summerrainsandgustyspring 306 the park.Here youpaytheAR$25admission private vehicles are notallowedfurtherinto I w o r n i r g o

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