THE ANDEAN NORTHWEST T E N a L 243 P Y L E N O L
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© Lonely Planet 243 The Andean Northwest In stark contrast with the low, flat, humid northeast, Argentina’s northwest sits lofty, dry and tough beneath the mighty Andes. Nature works its magic here with stone: weird, wonderful and tortured rockscapes are visible throughout, from the imposing formations of the Parque Nacional Talampaya in the far south to the twisted strata of the Quebrada de Cafayate; from the jagged ruggedness of the Valles Calchaquíes to the palette of colors of the Quebrada de Humahuaca. And always to the west is the brooding presence of magnificent peaks. The area has an Andean feel with its traditional handicrafts, Quechua-speaking pockets, coca leaves, llamas, the indigenous heritage of the inhabitants, Inca ruins, and the high, arid puna (Andean highlands) stretching west to Chile and north to Bolivia. The region’s cities were Argentina’s first colonial settlements and have a special appeal. The quiet gentility of Santiago del Estero recalls bygone centuries, Salta’s beauty makes it a favorite stop for travelers, while resolutely urban Tucumán, a sugarcane capital, seems to look firmly to the future. Several popular routes await. From Salta you can take in the cactus sentinels of Parque Nacional Los Cardones on your way to gorgeous Cachi, and then head down through the tradi- tional weaving communities of the Valles Calchaquíes to Cafayate, home of some of Argentina’s best wines. Another route from Salta soars into the mountains to the puna mining settlement of San Antonio de los Cobres, heads north to the spectacular salt plains of the Salinas Grandes, and then down to the visually wondrous and history-filled Quebrada de Humahuaca. THE ANDEAN NORTHWEST THE ANDEAN NORTHWEST HIGHLIGHTS Quebrada de Wonder at nature’s palette in the Quebrada Humahuaca de Humahuaca ( p252 ) Observe weavers at work in the memorable Salta Valles Calchaquíes ( p272 ) Valles Calchaquíes Cleanse your lungs in the crisp mountain air of Tafí del Valle ( p286 ) Tafí del Valle Hit Wild West Chilecito ( p303 ), the base for uplifting mountain excursions Soak up the colonial ambience in sophisticated Salta ( p260 ) Chilecito POPULATION: 4.46 MILLION AREA : 559,864 SQ KM 244 THE ANDEAN NORTHWEST lonelyplanet.com 0 100 km THE ANDEAN NORTHWEST 0 60 miles 69ºW 67ºW 65ºW 63ºW 701 21ºS Ollagüe 1 P A R A G U A Y B O L I V I A R ὄ Yacuiba í Villazón o Salvador La Quiaca Yavi Parque Mazza 23 P Laguna RN Nacional i lc Pozuelos 9 Baritú o Aguas Tartagal m Tres Iruya Blancas a Lago de RN y Cruces 34 o Vilama L Río Grande RN de Tarija J u j u y 9 A RN Embarcación 40 Orán Río Bermejo RP S RN 23ºS ὄὄ16 Susques 81 23ºS RP Tropic of Capricorn 70 Tilcara Humahuaca Salinas Quebrada de RN Y Parque 23 52 Grandes Libertador Nacional F o r m o s a Purmamarca General U Calilegua To Formosa To Antofagasta San Martin N San Antonio JUJUY RN San Pedro S a l t a 66 G s Tolar de los Cobres RN RP Socompa 51 de Jujuy e Grande 5 RP La Poma General A 27 SALTA RN Güemes RP 9 S nd Minaὄὄ La 17 5 Casualidad RP JV González C h a c o A Cachi RP 33 5 RN Seclantás 16 Calchaquíes 25ºS 25ºS Valles Embalse s Metán Taco RP RN Cabra Pozo o 43 40 Corral Rosario de Cerro RN la Frontera Parque 68 Galán RN Nacional Copo Antofagasta 9 RN RP (6600m) Cafayate 34 RN To e de la Sierra Quebrada 4 RN 16 Resistencia de Cafayate 92 dl Pampa Quilmes T u c u m á n Río Salado C H I L E Amaicha de los C a t a m a r c a del Valle Guanacos Santa Tafí del S a n t i a g o r Cerro de María Valle TUCUMÁN d e l RP Incahuasi 6 31 (6620m) San José de Lules E s t e r o Acheral RP lle a Hualfin RP RP Monteros RN RN 46 RN 47 5 i 9 34 27ºS 45 RP 27ºS 48 RN Fiambalá Andalgalá 38 Cerro Pissis Belén Termas RP La Banda (6779m) El Shincal de Río RN To Resistencia 46 La Cocha RP ord 89 e RP Hondo Londres RP RN SANTIAGO 116 d 3 RN C a 46 75 RN 157 RN DEL ESTERO n Villa Las a RN 40 64 Cerro RN 60 Pirquitas RN r Bonito Chico ti 34 42 Añatuya r RP (6850m) a CATAMARCA 7 Laguna e RN Colonia Dara m Frías Vinchina RN Brava i 75 RN RN a RN RN 74 38 9 RP 95 S S Anillaco RP 98 F V 30 RP RP 2 i 26 a 9 Chilecito e RN Río Dulce l r RP 157 Villa Nonogasta RN r 5 Tostado co a Unión a 98 n Villa Ojo 29ºS Sañogasta s RN a d LA RIOJA 60 de Agua RN 29ºS l c Pagancillo e 34 B Salinas RP o L a RN 26 Parque Grandes RP 40 RN R i o j a Villa de 17 Nacional 38 Río Talampaya María RN Villa Parque RN Patquía 79 RN RN Trinidad Provincial 150 60 9 Ischigualasto Los RP Chamical RN Baldecitos 27 Laguna Mar E n t r e 150 RN Chiquita Río Barmejo 38 THE ANDEAN NORTHWEST THE ANDEAN NORTHWEST R í o s RP RP 28 17 S a n J u a n ὄVilla RP C ó r d o b a RP Santa 23 510 RP Rita 29 RP RP RP CÓRDOBA To Santa Fe 31ºS 12 20 28 RN & Paraná RN Chepes Salsacate 19 31ºS SAN JUAN 141 RN RN 79 Río Segundo Sastre 40 R í RP o S RN 412 an J 9 uan RP RN 18 RN Merlo 36 RN RP 20 34 39 RN 146 RN To Rosario 147 RP RP 1 4 MENDOZA 33ºS 33ºS RP 69ºW 67ºW 20 65ºW 63ºW lonelyplanet.com JUJUY & SALTA PROVINCES •• Jujuy 245 Climate to the west, the zone climbs from the sweaty Dryness and cold characterize the extreme cloud forests of Las Yungas westward to the northwest’s weather. Drought is often a puna highlands and some of the most majestic problem and many zones are virtual desert. peaks of the Cordillera de los Andes. Although the zone’s crossed by the Tropic The two capitals – comfortable Jujuy of Capricorn, the altitudes here keep things and colonial, beloved-of-travelers Salta – chilly. To the south and east, however, tem- are launch pads for exploration of the jag- peratures are much warmer, and you’ll sweat ged chromatic ravines of the Quebrada de it out in the steamy cloud forest of Parque Cafayate and Quebrada de Humahuaca; for Nacional Calilegua or the scorching summer the villages of the Valles Calchaquíes, rich in of La Rioja. artisanal handicrafts; for the stark puna scen- ery; for nosing of the aromatic Cafayate tor- National Parks rontés whites; or for rough exploration in the This region holds some important national remote national parks of El Rey or Baritú. parks, mostly in Jujuy and Salta provinces. Parque Nacional Calilegua ( p250 ) preserves JUJUY subtropical cloud forest and is home to an %0388 / pop 278,336 / elev 1201m array of birdlife, as well as pumas and jaguars. Of the trinity of northwestern cities, Jujuy The less accessible Parque Nacional El Rey lacks the colonial sophistication of Salta or ( p251 ) is the most biologically diverse park urban vibe of Tucumán, but nevertheless in the country and teems with birdlife, in- shines for its livable feel, enticing restaurants cluding toucans. Far-flung Parque Nacional and gregarious, good-looking locals. It’s got Baritú ( p252 ) contains subtropical montane the most indigenous feel of any of Argentina’s forest and is home to monkeys, big cats, otters cities. The climate is perpetually springlike; and forest squirrels. Between Salta and Cachi, the city is the highest provincial capital in Parque Nacional Los Cardones ( p272 ) is full of the country. cactus-studded photo opportunities. Much fur- San Salvador de Jujuy (commonly called ther south, Parque Nacional Talampaya ( p305 ) simply Jujuy) was founded in 1593 as the most has aboriginal petroglyphs, photogenic rock northerly Spanish colonial city in present- formations and unique flora and fauna, while day Argentina. It was the third attempt to in the far east of the region, Parque Nacional found a city in this valley, after the previous Copo ( p293 ) harbors anteaters, parrots and the two incarnations had been razed by miffed fabulous quebracho colorado tree. indigenous groups who hadn’t given planning THE ANDEAN NORTHWEST permission. Getting There & Away On August 23, 1812, during the wars of There are flights from Buenos Aires to Jujuy, independence, General Belgrano ordered the Salta, Tucumán, Santiago del Estero, Catamarca evacuation of Jujuy. Its citizens complied in and La Rioja, and flights from Salta to Córdoba what is famously known as the éxodo jujeño. and Iguazú. Salta has the most flights. Bus con- All possessions that could not be loaded on nections are generally available for destinations the mules were burned, along with the houses, all over the country, particularly from the large in a scorched-earth retreat. Belgrano reported cities of Tucumán and Salta. Slow trains from that most citizens were willing. They were Buenos Aires make it to Tucumán. able to return to what was left of their city in February 1813. The province of Jujuy bore the brunt of conflict during these wars, with Spain launching repeated invasions down the JUJUY & SALTA Quebrada de Humahuaca from Bolivia.