Table of Contents

Introduction………………………………………………………………….. 1

Step 1: Choose a walk…………………………………………………… 3

Step 2: Plan your itinerary…………………………………………….. 7

Step 3: Book your accommodation……………………………….. 9

Practical tips for long-distance walking…………………………. 10

Where will I stay?...... 10

What’s my TopoGuide?...... 11

How hard exactly is this walk going to be?...... 11

How far will I walk each day?...... 12

Camping or a little luxury?...... 12

Is this safe?...... 13

When is the weather at its best?...... 14

Walking safely and considerately………………………………….. 16

What do I need to take? 16 essential items…………………… 17

Let’s get started……………………………………………………………. 18

Dream, plan, go! Long-distance walking in © www.ILoveWalkingInFrance.com

Avignon—and while avoiding the major highways, I discovered Hey, I’m Melinda that rural France is filled with gorgeous villages and stunning I am a keen long-distance walker who enjoys nothing more than countryside. spending a week or two wandering through the picturesque And what better way to experience all the delights of rural villages and glorious countryside of rural France—always France than to walk one of the hundreds of well-marked walking finishing the day with a delicious meal and a verre de rosé. I’m paths—all part of a network overseen by the Fédèration not particularly fit, older than you might think and I want you to Française de la Randonnée Pédestre (FFRP). experience the joys of long-distance walking too. Several of my friends also thought this sounded like a mighty If you’ll provide the boots, I’ll provide the inspiration and all the fine idea and as I started to do a little more research, I had many practical tips needed to set out safely and confidently each day! questions—

➢ How far would we need to walk each day? Would there be accommodation at frequent intervals or would we have to walk thirty kilometres (twenty miles) every day? ➢ Would we always be sharing a room with a dozen snoring strangers? ➢ If one of us was injured, was there a local taxi we could call? ➢ Would we need a picnic lunch every day or would we pass a café? ➢ If it rained or we got distracted by too many historical monuments, could we catch a bus to the next town?

➢ Did we need to start out with 200 bandaids or would we My love affair with France began in 2006 when I spent one buy more easily along the way? month travelling extensively throughout the country on my own. ➢ What would the countryside be like—lush green hills, Motivated primarily by a fear of driving through large cities (and vineyards, mountainous terrain? around the Arc de Triomphe in particular), I stayed in smaller towns—Bayeux, Chenonceaux, Vézelay, Pérouges, Annecy and ➢ What would we need to take?

3 Steps to Finding the Perfect Long-distance Walk © www.ILoveWalkingInFrance.com Page 1

Maybe you have these questions too? Or if you didn’t already, you do now!

Walking in France is such a fabulous experience that I can’t bear for it to end up in the ‘too hard basket’ so my goal is to make it oh so easy for you to— 1. Choose a walk Find the walk that captures your imagination—whether that includes fairytale castles and tiny villages; wide open spaces or rugged coastlines; or an easy, flat walk along a canal towpath. 2. Plan your itinerary Put together a schedule that allows plenty of time to explore those fairytale castles; includes a rest day—or a lazy afternoon— in one of France’s most beautiful villages; and coincides with the local market day. 3. Book your accommodation Whether you set out each morning and walk as far as feels comfortable or you have your luggage transferred and need your accommodation booked in advance, it’s always nice to know where your next bed is and how to contact your host! Plage de Kervel, GR 34, 3 Steps to Finding the Perfect Long-distance Walk © www.ILoveWalkingInFrance.com Page 2

People walk the Chemin de Saint-Jacques for a variety of Step 1: Choose a walk reasons—sometimes for the physical challenge, sometimes as a Walking is almost a national pastime in France and tens of walking meditation, often for religious reasons. If you are not an thousands of kilometres of paths criss-cross the country. This experienced long-distance walker this is the perfect walk to cut can make choosing one almost impossible. your teeth on. There is almost always another walker in sight— someone to chat to and compare blister stories with… And, of But it also means there is a walk with your name on it—a walk course, there is no need to complete all 750 kilometres (470 that incorporates all the magic you are dreaming of, whether miles) in a single trip—take it as fast or as slow as you like. that be fairytale castles and tiny villages; wide open spaces or rugged coastlines; or an easy, flat walk (or cycle) along a canal towpath.

Perhaps you’d like…

The Chemin de Saint-Jacques du-Puy has been guiding pilgrims from Le Puy-en-Velay towards Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port (the starting point of the Spanish Camino) since the tenth century. Today, tens of thousands of walkers make the journey every year—crossing the wide open spaces of the Aubrac region, climbing the foothills of the Pyrénées and passing through eleven of France’s most beautiful villages (and the opportunity to dine at three Michelin-starred restaurants!). Learn more about walking the Chemin de Saint-Jacques du-Puy 3 Steps to Finding the Perfect Long-distance Walk © www.ILoveWalkingInFrance.com Page 3

For a journey with more than its fair share of fairytale castles and picturesque villages, it’s hard to go past the 130-kilometre (80-mile) walk from Martel to Rocamadour. Passing through six of France’s most beautiful villages—Turenne, Collonges-la- Rouge, Curemonte, Autoire, Loubressac and Carennac—this walk also offers the opportunity to visit the underground lakes and caves of Gouffre de Padirac and explore the châteaux at Montal and Castelnau-Bretenoux. After seven days of walking, you’ll arrive in Rocamadour, (considered the second most important religious site in France after Mont-Saint-Michel) where Zaccheus, a servant of the Virgin Mary, came to live in the caves as a hermit in the years following the death of Jesus.

In September 1878, the Scottish author Robert Louis Stevenson left the village of Le Monastier-sur-Gazeille accompanied by his donkey Modestine. Over the next eleven days, the pair travelled south through the Cévennes (one of France’s most loved National Parks) and arrived in Saint-Jean-du-Gard, having walked a little over 225 kilometres (140 miles). Now extended at both ends to link Le Puy-en-Velay to Alès, the Chemin de Stevenson, or GR 70, is a spectacular walk—of gentle slopes, endless ridges, relentless hills and majestic landscapes.

Learn more about walking the Chemin de Stevenson Learn more about walking from Martel to Rocamadour 3 Steps to Finding the Perfect Long-distance Walk © www.ILoveWalkingInFrance.com Page 4

If you are looking for a flat, easy walk with almost no chance of The Midi Canal from Toulouse to Carcassonne offers a more getting lost, canal towpaths offer a glimpse into rural France tranquil experience as it meanders through overhanging trees more commonly viewed from a boat. and opens up into fields of sunflowers. But this one of the most popular holiday destinations in France for boating enthusiasts so you are never too far from a friendly face! A few days in Toulouse before you start walking will be quickly filled with visits to museums and art galleries or day trips to Lourdes or Albi and five days of walking is rounded off nicely with a visit to the medieval city of Carcassonne. There are several opportunities for fine dining on this walk with Michelin-starred restaurants in Toulouse and Carcassonne—so reward yourself for a walk well done, no matter which direction you go!

Walking (or cycling) along the Burgundy Canal, you’ll find yourself within walking distance, or a shuttle bus ride, of eight châteaux, eleven churches, one abbey, three of France’s most beautiful villages, countless picturesque lock-houses and the historic city of Dijon. Many Tourist Offices along the canal provide a bike rental service and if you’d like to mix it up a little, you can pick up a bicycle in one town and return it a day or two later further along the canal.

Learn more about walking along the Burgundy Canal Learn more about walking along the Midi Canal 3 Steps to Finding the Perfect Long-distance Walk © www.ILoveWalkingInFrance.com Page 5

Rugged headlands and dramatic cliffs, swathes of dancing Described by locals as très sportive, the Échappée Jurassienne wildflowers, wide sandy beaches and quaint fishing ports—the follows the GR 59, GR 559 and GR 509 paths from Dole to Saint- coast of Brittany has it all! Claude. Set in the heart of the majestic Jura region, this 270- kilometre (170-mile) walk passes through farmland, vineyards and lush forest before reaching the alpine ski slopes close to the border with Switzerland. Along the way it visits two of France’s most beautiful villages—Château-Chalon and Baume-les- Messieurs—and the spectacular waterfalls of Cascades du Hérisson.

Although the 160-kilometre (100-mile) section of the GR 34 between Camaret-sur-Mer and Audierne is challenging in some areas, and not always a good choice for anyone with a fear of heights, the scenery is spectacular and on a sunny day, with a gentle breeze, I would rate this (and continuing along the GR 34 to ) as my favourite walk in France! Learn more about walking along the Coast of Brittany When you’ve finished exploring, let’s continue… 3 Steps to Finding the Perfect Long-distance Walk © www.ILoveWalkingInFrance.com Page 6

So, make a list of the places where you know you’ll want to Step 2: Plan your itinerary linger and give yourself an extra hour or two, perhaps an afternoon or even a rest day. Consider also that most historical Once you have chosen a walk, planning an itinerary that suits monuments will be closed for at least one day each week and your timeframe and your fitness level is the next step. plan your itinerary accordingly. I will happily walk 20-25 kilometres (12-15 miles) each day with an occasional thirty-kilometre (18 mile) day where necessary. But I know that thirty kilometres day in, day out will be gruelling and I’ll arrive in town each afternoon too exhausted to do anything but collapse on my bed.

If your idea of the perfect trail mix is fruit, nuts, maybe some locally grown figs or prunes, freshly baked baguette and a little cheese, then finding yourself in town on market day is the ideal start to the morning (and if it’s not market day, perhaps collecting a tarte aux fraises (strawberry tart) from the boulangerie as you go is the next best thing).

And since I have chosen a walk because there’s a village or a Perhaps you are a ‘leave at the crack of dawn and don’t worry château or something that has captured my imagination, I want about the tourist attractions’ kind of walker or you have a tent to arrive with plenty of time and energy to enjoy my visit. and can sleep wherever you stop each night. Lucky you—finding 3 Steps to Finding the Perfect Long-distance Walk © www.ILoveWalkingInFrance.com Page 7 your boots may be all the planning you need to do! You’ll find a that I will need enough time to poke my head into every church list of all villages with accommodation and the distances and check out every château along the way. between them, in the Where to find accommodation? section of If you are more like me and like to know everything that’s going each walk (and, of course, included in every I Love Walking in on, you’ll find all the information needed to plan your itinerary France digital travel guide). included in the guidebooks— I like to think that walking through France is an excuse to ✓ Distances between villages wander from one delicious meal to the next while exploring all the delightful distractions along the way! ✓ Map details ✓ Where to sleep—website links and contact details for all accommodation ✓ Where to eat—is there a café, bakery or grocery store? ✓ Other services—is there a pharmacy, doctor, bank or ATM? ✓ Website links and contact details for companies who transfer luggage between hotels ✓ Tourist Office links and addresses ✓ Market days ✓ Local attractions, including website links to check opening days and hours ✓ Train and bus access, including website links to all timetables ✓ Taxi phone numbers ✓ Useful French phrases—how to book a room, order

dinner, read your TopoGuide and talk to the taxi driver My itineraries are based around an ‘enjoy breakfast, walk for ten kilometres, have a nice lunch, walk another ten kilometres, ✓ Dozens of photos…to keep you inspired linger over dinner’ kind of schedule. And it goes without saying Once you have an itinerary planned, it’s time to… 3 Steps to Finding the Perfect Long-distance Walk © www.ILoveWalkingInFrance.com Page 8

When deciding which hotels, chambre d’hôtes, gîtes and Step 3: Book your accommodation campgrounds to include in the guidebooks, I have used the following criteria— Whether you set out each morning and walk as far as feels ✓ The accommodation has its own website—perfect, they’re comfortable or you have your luggage transferred and need to included! book your accommodation in advance, it’s always nice to know where your next bed is and how to contact your host! ✓ The accommodation is listed on the local Tourist Office

website with an address, phone number or email contact details—good enough, they’re included! ✓ The accommodation only has an address and phone number which I have discovered while in France—only included if I think this may make or break your decision to do the walk, for example, it is the only way to break a very long day of walking.  The accommodation is only listed on an online hotel booking site but I couldn’t confirm its existence—not included! Hotel booking sites take a sizeable chunk of the room rate in fees, putting pressure on the excellent value offered by small, family-run lodgings. By all means, use them to look for other options, but please make your booking directly through the hotel. Bear in mind also, that there are many villages named Villefranche or Châteauneuf. Be sure you have the right location before you book a room.

Ready to book? How to book a room in French

OK, you’re almost ready to go! Here are some practical tips to help your trip go smoothly.

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Staying at chambres d’hôtes (or bed and breakfasts) is a Practical tips for long-distance walking wonderful way to meet the locals. A smattering of French will go If you’ve never set out on a long-distance walk before, the a long way here—don’t assume English will be spoken. number of things to think about may seem overwhelming. Many chambres d’hôtes will also offer a table d’hôte—a home If you have...well, you know there are no problems that a little cooked meal featuring local produce or specialities. Request this preparation won’t solve and the results are SO worth it! when making your reservation. Where will I stay? If you prefer to wing it and not pre-book your room, or to phone ahead for accommodation each morning, you may strike out The most common concern I hear from those dreaming of a with this type of accommodation. Proprietors are very long-distance walk is... hospitable people but if rooms are not booked, they tend to get “Can I do this without camping or sharing a room with a dozen on with their lives and won’t be sitting around waiting for you to snoring strangers?” call. You may be lucky but don’t rely on last-minute bookings. Of course you can! Gîtes, mainly found along the Chemins de Saint-Jacques, offer Even in small villages, there is likely to be a variety of dormitory-style accommodation to cater for the large number of accommodation available—from hotels, chambres d’hôtes, walkers (although double rooms are sometimes available). auberges, gîtes and campgrounds. If you are not carrying a sleeping bag, bed sheets and a towel Finding a bed in your preferred type of lodging is often easier if will be provided for a small fee. The price will often include a you are willing to book ahead but what is a chambre d’hôte or a home cooked dinner but if not, cooking facilities in a common gîte? kitchen area will be available. There are four types of accommodation available in France: Gîtes are generally very cheap and therefore a good option if you want to minimise costs. Hotels in France are rated by a star system, with five-star being the best. For an overnight stay, two- or three-star hotels are fine Camping is camping and, as with the rest of the world, standards and your room should be comfortable and clean. Check at and facilities vary greatly. smaller hotels that your room has a private bathroom if this is Campgrounds in France are not obliged to open until the important to you. Some hotels offer a half-board option that beginning of June and usually stay open until the end of includes a two-course dinner from a reduced choice menu at September. Some open in April but it’s advisable to check the very reasonable prices. local Tourist Office website.

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What’s my TopoGuide? Miam Miam Dodo guidebooks (you’ll find a comparison of the two here). Personally, I love the topographic maps included in Long-distance walking paths in France are known as Grand the TopoGuide which allow me to see where I am in relation to Randonnée, or GR, paths and are overseen by the Fédération the road (and perhaps take that route in heavy rain) and to see Française de la Randonnée Pédestre (FFRP). They are well where a detour might avoid that one hill too many ☺. marked and well maintained by an army of dedicated volunteers. If there is a TopoGuide published for my walk, you can be sure

there will be a copy in my backpack!

How hard exactly is this walk going to be? The thought of walking 800 kilometres (500 miles) or more can be daunting! Who does that?? And how fit to you need to be?? Well, I can do it, and I’m not young and I’m not that fit! (But I won’t pretend that my feet aren’t tired at the end of the walk!) Broken down into a series of twenty kilometre (twelve mile) daily walks, with the occasional rest day thrown in, a long- distance walk becomes a delightful way to explore the French countryside. Of course, it is not necessary to complete all 800 kilometres in one holiday. Start with a week or two and, if you like it (which I know you will), return the following year for the next stage.

And once you find the start of trail, it’s a simple matter of looking out for the red and white blazes that keep you headed in the right direction. Several organisations publish guidebooks which provide various levels of detail on the route, the villages you’ll pass through and the distances between them. Two popular choices among walkers are the TopoGuide (published by the FFRP) and the 3 Steps to Finding the Perfect Long-distance Walk © www.ILoveWalkingInFrance.com Page 11

Giving some thought to the things that make or break a holiday If you know that you will only be happy in a hotel or cannot put for you will go a long way towards making a long-distance walk in the occasional thirty-kilometre (nineteen-mile) day, then your enjoyable. So, what are the things you need to consider? options become more limited. Perhaps a rest day will ease any stiff muscles and sore feet if a longer day cannot be avoided. How far will I walk each day? Competition for a bed in France is not as fierce as it can be along This is obviously a personal decision but it’s best to be honest up the Camino de Santiago in Spain and rising before daybreak in front or do some training. order to beat other walkers to a bed is not common—although

even those walkers with only a loose plan, will usually set a target each morning and phone ahead to secure a bed. If you prefer not to plan or book ahead, consider what you will do if you arrive in town after a day’s walk and all accommodation is full? Will you be happy to catch a bus or taxi (if there is one) to the next village or would you see this as a failure to walk the entire route?

Camping or a little of luxury? Since I live in Australia, a walk in France will be one part of a longer holiday. I don’t want to carry my dancing shoes on the walk. Nor do I want to lug my tent through Paris, so camping under the stars—glorious as that may be—is just not a practical option for me. Neither is staying a gîte unless I can rent a sleeping bag and towel for the night (so far, I have always been able to do this).

The perfect solution for me is to have my luggage transferred I am happy to walk between twenty and twenty-five kilometres between hotels each day (yes, this does need some advance (twelve to eighteen miles) each day with an occasional longer planning!). day where necessary (more than twenty-five kilometres is likely I have to be honest and say that I have stayed in a few hotel to result in a few blisters for me). I am happy to stay in a hotel, chains (not only in France) that also happen to have a restaurant chambre d’hôte or gîte but avoid camping. 3 Steps to Finding the Perfect Long-distance Walk © www.ILoveWalkingInFrance.com Page 12 onsite—but food was clearly not their core business. In small buddy. If you prefer some privacy, single and double rooms are French villages, I have occasionally stayed in restaurants that often available in addition to dormitory-style accommodation. also happened to have rooms available—if you get my drift. But, Is this safe? my goodness, what a dinner!! And, I should add, they were always cheap, clean and with enough basic amenities to see me Will you worry about getting lost or being injured and unable to comfortably through the night! get help?

If this is a big concern for you perhaps a canal (where becoming lost is almost impossible!) is your best choice. On the other hand, if the worst should happen and you fall and break a leg, it will only be a short time before a cyclist or a boat comes by to rescue you!

I can’t speak with authority on all walking paths but I can say If you are walking alone, staying overnight in a gîte is a that the Chemin de Saint-Jacques from Le Puy-en-Velay has a wonderful way to make friends and perhaps find a walking fair amount of foot traffic. It was very rare for me not to be able 3 Steps to Finding the Perfect Long-distance Walk © www.ILoveWalkingInFrance.com Page 13 to see another walker a few hundred metres ahead or behind When is the weather at its best? me and I feel confident that if I were injured, someone would Walking season in France extends from April through until find me within an hour or two at most. October. Outside of these months, many areas will be under While walking the Échappée Jurassienne however (thankfully snow and walking under these conditions carries a set of with friends), I met no other walkers! I know many consider this challenges well beyond my area of expertise. Many hotels will solitude ideal but I often get lonely if I’m walking on my own and be closed during this period also, making accommodation harder find the presence of other walkers reassuring—both from a to find. safety perspective and because it offers the opportunity for a chat. But sometimes, walks like these are partially about learning how we behave outside our comfort zone and that’s all part of the journey!

The peak period for walkers is June, July and August. Although daytime temperatures can be quite high in summer, the sunflowers will be blooming as you venture further south (and this is sufficient reason for me to endure a little heat!). Many

villages host an evening market only in summer and museums GR (Grand Randonnée) paths are well-marked wherever there is and châteaux remain open throughout the day, rarely closing for a fork or other deviation but there will not always be a blaze or lunch, which will give you much more flexibility if there is an marking in sight. Keep your eyes open and look out for markings attraction you’d like to visit. But the higher numbers of walkers in unusual places—on trees, houses, fences and kerbs. make it advisable to book accommodation as early as feasible.

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August is traditionally the month when the French take their are a slippery, muddy nightmare after heavy rain. Having my vacation—including hotel proprietors (who knows where they luggage transferred ahead forces me to keep pace with my stay!) and I try to avoid walking during this month. suitcase but you may prefer to take each day as it comes and In May and September, temperatures are much milder, the path stay put for a day or two if the weather turns bad. (TopoGuide is usually less crowded and walking is the perfect way to spend maps show the walking path and the road making it easier to the day. But, from my experience, you are more likely to find an alternative route if you prefer to stick to a solid surface— encounter rainy days in May and I now plan all walks for June or but always be aware of traffic as the verge can be quite narrow.) September. Canal towpaths, on the other hand, are often asphalt or gravel and not as affected by heavy rain. Wet-weather protection is still necessary, of course, but you are unlikely to find yourself tiptoeing gingerly along a muddy track.

But if the weather is uncommonly wet and it rains for the whole time you are walking, will you wish you had stayed at home?

I have been blessed with perfect weather almost every day while Always carry sturdy garbage bags to protect your belongs inside walking in France but some parts of the Chemin de Saint-Jacques your backpack as well as wearing good weatherproof clothing. 3 Steps to Finding the Perfect Long-distance Walk © www.ILoveWalkingInFrance.com Page 15

Walking safely and considerately Always take as much water as you can comfortably carry each day and refill your water bottles whenever you get the chance. In some tiny villages it can be surprisingly difficult to find water or even the café listed in your guidebook. REMEMBER: if water is marked as non potable, do not drink it! As you set out each day, remember that bakeries and grocery stores will close at lunchtime and may not reopen until as late as three in the afternoon, as well as closing for one full day each week. Quite frustratingly, all stores in a village often choose the same day each week (usually Monday) to close. To avoid being caught with no food, buy supplies before you leave town each morning. If you do happen across an open café at lunchtime, you can choose whether to sacrifice your supplies and stop for a leisurely lunch or find a nice picnic spot and know that a wonderful dinner awaits you that night. Better still, buy supplies (nuts and dried fruits are good choices) that will last a few days so you don’t feel guilty if you don’t eat them that day.

The usual rules of etiquette apply when walking in France— always take your rubbish with you and leave gates, open or shut, as you found them.

Smile a lot and say bonjour Monsieur or bonjour Madame to everyone you encounter.

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✓ Two sets of lightweight, quick-drying clothes for walking What do I need to take? Pack like a pro! ✓ One set of clothes to wear to dinner Your packing list for a long-distance walk will be completely ✓ One pair of boots, waterproofed and well worn-in different than if you were spending your holiday lounging around the pool at a seaside resort or being whisked from city to ✓ Two pairs of thick socks city on a coach tour. ✓ Two pairs of thin socks Although many walkers (myself included) have their luggage ✓ One lightweight pair of shoes for other times transferred from hotel to hotel, many others follow a much less ✓ structured itinerary and carry everything with them each day. One waterproof jacket The trick then, is to take as little as possible! ✓ Pack cover or sturdy garbage bags to protect your After some trial and error, I’ve narrowed down my list to sixteen backpack from rain essential items plus a few optional extras and compiled them ✓ Underwear into a handy one-page printable checklist which I keep in my ✓ Toiletries, including bandaids and disinfectant wipes suitcase.

✓ Sunscreen, sunglasses and hat ✓ Lightweight aluminium water bottle or water bladder ✓ Pocket knife ✓ Detergent for washing clothes (shampoo or soap is a good substitute) and pegs or safety pins ✓ Compass ✓ Maps (or TopoGuide or other good guidebook). Optional items include: ✓ Binoculars ✓ Torch ✓ Walking poles (although for many people these are included on the first list).

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If you are ready to start planning a walk, you’ll find many more Let’s get started… details in the digital travel guides, including—

✓ Distances between villages Not sure where to start? ✓ Map details Learn more about each walk and find one that’s right for you… ✓ Where to sleep—website links and contact details for all

accommodation Chemin de Saint-Jacques du-Puy ✓ Where to eat—is there a café, bakery or grocery store?

✓ Other services—is there a pharmacy, doctor, bank or Chemin de Stevenson

ATM? Martel to Rocamadour ✓ Website links and contact details for companies who transfer luggage between hotels Burgundy Canal ✓ Tourist Office links and addresses ✓ Market days Midi Canal ✓ Local attractions, including website links to check opening days and hours Coast of Brittany ✓ Train and bus access, including website links to all timetables Or follow this step-by-step guide to planning an itinerary and ✓ Taxi phone numbers booking accommodation in French, using my walk along the ✓ Useful French phrases—how to book a room, order Chemin de Stevenson as a case study.

dinner, read your TopoGuide and talk to the taxi driver You’ll find lots more, including practical tips for avoiding blisters ✓ Dozens of photos…to keep you inspired here. And if you’ve found this booklet useful, please pass it on to a

friend! And then…

✓ say hello on Facebook or Pinterest ✓ email me at [email protected] Happy walking, Melinda 3 Steps to Finding the Perfect Long-distance Walk © www.ILoveWalkingInFrance.com Page 18