MARSEILLE Highlights 2017 / 2018

Home , Arc (Provence), Calanque, Calanques National Park, CMA CGM Tower, Durance, En Concert Tour

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Marseille, a major city with 26 centuries of history, European Capital of Culture in 2013, 2016 UEFA EURO Host City, European Capital of Sport in 2017, and candidate for the 2024 Olympic Games... but also in the process of radical transformation, invites you to allow this guide to take you to essential sites and unusual places. Whether you have two hours, a day, a weekend or several days, Marseille offers itself to you and will not fail to make an impression on you. Experience Marseille’s new look for yourself: the pedestrianised Old Port, Norman Foster’s Ombrière, the J4 esplanade with the Mucem, the Villa Méditerranée and Musée Regards de Provence alongside many cultural sites which opened in 2013, the Musée d’Histoire, Musée des Arts Décoratifs et de la Mode, FRAC PACA and many more. Shop ‘til you drop in Marseille where you’re spoiled for choice! Stroll around the city centre shops, explore the new La Joliette shopping centre and wander through the Panier to see artisan boutiques. The Marseilles area is vast and is made up of many districts. On some routes the Tourist Office and Convention Bureau will give you the keys for understanding and appreciating the town’s assets. Some fifteen tours are suggested. Most of them start in the Vieux-Port, the focal point of Marseille, and are on foot, by bus or by petit train. At the end of each route it suggests returning to the town centre by public transport. One after the other you will discover landscapes, monuments, museums and atmospheres at your own pace. Do not hesitate to step inside the many shops listed for you district by district. Local Marseille designers, exceptional places, traditional shops or gifts from Marseille, these addresses will help you to find what you are looking for! Shops, cafés, hotels, restaurants, tourism and transport professionals are committed to providing a warm and professional welcome! Are you ready then? Marseille offers itself to you, offer yourself to Marseille! We hope you have a pleasant stay in our town.

3 treat yourself to MARSEILLE Our activities Prices for children and families on request

18€/pers. ‹ MARSEILLE « CITY TOUR » An audio guided tour aboard a panoramic minibus.

From 19€/pers. MARSEILLE PANORAMIC TOUR › An audioguided tour « hop-on-hop-off ».

8€/pers. ‹ MARSEILLE BY TOURISTIC TRAIN

85€ (1 to 3 pers.)

130€ MARSEILLE (4 to 6 pers.) BY TUKTUK ›

From 35€/pers. ‹ MARSEILLE BY ELECTRIC BIKE

120€/pers.

BOUILLABAISSE 4 COOKING LESSON › From 35€/pers. ‹ MARSEILLE ‹ BUGGY TRIP « CITY TOUR » An audio guided tour aboard a panoramic minibus. 29€/pers.

ELECTRIC SCOOTER TRIP ›

39€/pers. ‹ THEATRICAL WALKSS in Marcel Pagnol’s hills (from 1st of May to 18th of June) New show in 2017 : La fille du Puisatier

IN THE HEART OF THE CALANQUES NATIONAL PARK

‹ DIVING BEGINNER 70€/pers. SESSION

27€/pers. SNORKELING ›

SEA KAYAK 38€/pers. ‹ From 34€/pers. TRADITIONAL BOAT TRIP ›

38€/pers. ‹ ROCK CLIMBING 55€/pers. ‹ ADVENTURE TREK 5 treat yourself to MARSEILLE Our guided tours Prices for children and families on request

2 HOURS WALKING From TOURS › 9€/pers.

VISIT OF THE ORANGE VELODROME STADIUM

13€/pers.

GUIDED TOUR OF THE CITÉ RADIEUSE LE CORBUSIER UNESCO World Heritage

10€/pers. › Marseille 26 24h / 24hrs 33 Marseille City Pass 48h / 48hrs

Save 40%! Boat, touristic trains, 41 museums, If Castle… 72h / 72hrs 6 treat yourself to MARSEILLE our EXCURSIONS

Luberon Monaco Nice Excursions in 8-seat minibus with driver from Marseille. our EXCURSIONS

From 51€/pers.

Luberon Monaco Nice Around the Old Port North side

This is where everything began 2,600 years ago… Legend has it that Marseille was born from the love affair between the Greek sailor Protis and the Ligurian princess Gyptis. Today, the Old Port is still the nerve centre of Marseille. Something is always happening here and the highlights of the city’s history took place here. The Old Port will be one of your key destinations on the visit to Marseille and you can devote several hours to it if you have enough time. Guided tours with the Tourism and Convention Bureau according to the program. The north side of the Old Port Les consignes sanitaires This aera was colonised when the In the 18th century, the very fine city was founded by the Greeks in Consignes Sanitaires building was 600 BC and it has kept numerous the headquarters of the Health traces of its ancient past (Ancient Authorities of Marseille in charge Port and Marseille History of the prevention of epidemics Museum, Roman Docks Museum, and the systematic quarantining of Vieille Charité Museum). ships. A second identical building was built here in the 19th century. The old Port has been completely In 1720, in spite of these measures, renovated by Norman Foster’s the ship called Grand Saint- British architectural firm alongside Antoine spread the plague all over French landscape designer Michel the city and soon after throughout Desvignes. southern France. The architectural concept of the Venture further and you’ll find Old Port is the Ombrière, all in Fort Saint Jean and the Tour du polished metal which, also has an Roi René built in the 15th century aesthetic function. It offers shelter to defend the entrance to the Old when the sun is too strong. Port. It was restored to become This new development gives more part of Mucem. Enjoy a lovely space to pedestrians by reducing walk taking you around the fort traffic routes, which allows to the J4 cultural centre. You can Marseille residents and tourists to also access Mucem through Fort find a convivial area for a pleasant Saint Jean. If you’re feeling brave stroll. you can walk up the Tour du Roi René’s 154 steps to reach the Turn right at the Quai du Port terrace overlooking the Old Port Hôtel de Ville with fantastic views of the Abbaye de Saint Victor and Notre Dame The City Hall was probably built de la Garde. by Pierre Puget, Marseille’s most famous architect. It was completed You can also head right to Place in 1673 in the Genoan Baroque Villeneuve Bargemon style. Built from Couronne pink stone like many monuments of Place Villeneuve Bargemon the Ancien Régime in Marseille, it is notable for its bust of king Louis Under this square is hidden the XIV on the façade, a symbol of the new Municipal Council room and royal power. museum built in 2006 by Franck ille en une appli ! Hammoutène. You can cross the Old Port on This superb public square ideal the ferry boat in front of the for festive events is a genuine link Town Hall.( €0,50) between the Old Port and the Continue on the Quai du Port Panier district. It has preserved and you’ll reach the Consignes a number of ancient remains at Sanitaires. which you can stop to admire the view.o en une appli !

10 Around the Old Port North side

La Maison Diamantée and the Accoules navettes make Built in 1570 for Pierre Gardiolle, it a lively place. Its cellar, dating a rich merchant who made his from 1899, offers wines, cheeses wealth by trading with the eastern and tapenades (Provençal dish Mediterranean. Its name derives consisting of puréed or finely from the carved faceted stones of chopped olives, capers, anchovies its façade. It was saved from the and olive oil)...rseille en une destruction of the old districts in appli ! 1943 and for many years housed Continue on Rue Saint-Laurent the Museum of Old Marseille. Saint-Laurent church, Sainte- Pavillon Daviel Catherine chapel A former courthouse, this building th This pink stone from the site of dating from the 18 century and La Couronne church is a rare built in the style of Provencal remnant of the Roman Provencal country houses but it is used style in Marseille. The campanile today for the offices of City Hall. from the 17th century is a listed Note the superb wrought-iron historical monument. Adjoining balcony from which the sentences the church is the Sainte-Catherine were read out.. chapel. The parvis of the church out Marseille en une appli ! offers one of the finest panoramic Hôtel Dieu views of the port of Marseille. Originally the hospital of the Holy The walkway from here connects Spirit, rebuilt in the 18th century the Panier district to Fort Saint- and extended during the Second Jean, part of the Mucem (Museum Empire, the hospital was still in of Civilisations from Europe and service up to a few years ago. This the Mediterranean), work of splendid building transformed into architect Rudy Riccioti. a luxury hotel reopened in spring 2013. Fort Saint-Jean Turn left onto Rue Caisserie The site of the fort of Saint-Jean was occupied since Antiquity, and out Marseille en une appli ! in the 13th century the order of the Knights Hospitallers of Saint Accoules church John of Jerusalem (the future The Accoules parish is the oldest Knights of Malta) built the fort that in Marseille. Of the original church gives the district its name. demolished during the Revolution, The Fort’s renovation was granted only the bell tower remains, built to Marseilles architect, Roland in the late Gothic style, and the Carta. Stunning Mediterranean traces of the nave. The present gardens have been developed church dates from the 19th which offer an ideal location for a century. delightful stroll and a breathtaking view across the J4 and the Joliette Port. Place de Lenche out Marseille en une appli ! An ancient Greek agora and then out Marseille en une appli ! a Roman forum, this square takes its name from that of the family of Lenche, a rich trader who came from Corsica to found the Compagnie du Corail. Numerous restaurants, an ice-cream parlour

11 Place de la Joliette vers la Gare vers l’Estaque Rue de la République vers Euromed

Vieille Rue d’Aix vers Euromed Charité Place Cathédrale Le Panier Sadi Carnot Rue Colbert Paroisse

oral t Saint-Canat t i Place des Hôtel L u Moulins Dieu d Musée Rue de la République D Regards de Provence Rue Méry Cours Belsunce B Grand Rue Eglise Rue Bonneterie BMVR Villa des Accoules Place Méditerranée Place de e ss u b ra B ir n e H e u R Daviel Hôtel Musée nt-Laure Lenche ai n de Cabre d’Histoire S t e Place u Rue Caisserie MuCEM n Villeneuve ve Musée Docks A Bargemon Saint-Jean Musée Eglise Rue de la Loge Marine O ce MuCEM Saint-Laurent Mairie La Canebière Avenue Gare maritime vers Longchamp Fort Quai du Port vers les calanques Ombrière Rue Saint-Ferréol Ferry-Boat St-Jean Rue Vacon Rue de la

Tour Rue Pythéas VIEUX-PORT Gare maritime Cours Jean Ballard Ferry-Boat vers lf et Frioul Molière Palais Rue du Pharo Fort Rue Saint-Saëns Opéra Rue Francis Davso Saint Nicolas Rue Fort Notre-Dame Cours Rue Paradis Quai Rive Neuve Rue Lulli d’Estiennes d’OrvesMaison La Criée artisanat Boulevard Charles Livon Sainte-Catherine Musée Cantini Rue Neuve Rue Sainte Rue Breteuil vers la Corniche Rue Montgrand Rue Grignan Abbaye Saint-Victor la Corderie vers la Préfecture Rue d’Endoume Boulevard de

Vers Avenue de la Corse Notre Dame de la Garde par la rue des Lices

12 Place de la Joliette vers la Gare vers l’Estaque Rue de la République vers Euromed

Vieille Rue d’Aix vers Euromed Charité Place Cathédrale Le Panier Sadi Carnot Rue Colbert Paroisse oral t Saint-Canat t i Place des Hôtel L u Moulins Dieu d Musée Rue de la République D Regards de Provence Rue Méry Cours Belsunce B Grand Rue Eglise Rue Bonneterie BMVR Villa des Accoules Place Méditerranée Place de e ss u b ra B ir n e H e u R Daviel Hôtel Musée nt-Laure Lenche ai n de Cabre d’Histoire S t e Place u Rue Caisserie MuCEM n Villeneuve ve Musée Docks A Bargemon Saint-Jean Musée Eglise Rue de la Loge Marine O ce MuCEM Saint-Laurent Mairie La Canebière Avenue Gare maritime vers Longchamp Fort Quai du Port vers les calanques Ombrière Rue Saint-Ferréol Ferry-Boat St-Jean Rue Vacon Rue de la

Vers Avenue de la Corse Notre Dame de la Garde par la rue des Lices

13 Around the Old Port North side

Mucem is free to enter during A quay for small cruise ships opening hours of the Museum (500/800 passengers) was and you can walk around the developed and completes the Fort saint Jean before taking the cruise terminal further north bridge to the Museum. which welcomes very large cruise ships. Today, Marseille welcomes Mucem more than1 million cruise A Museum for the Mediterranean. passengers. The first museum devoted to the cultures of the Mediterranean and Villa Méditerranée the first French national museum The Villa Méditerranée, designed to be transferred to the provinces, by Stéfano Boeri, is entirely the Mucem is breaking new devoted to the various forms of ground. expression of the Mediterranean A remarkable site Basin. The Mucem is a large complex spread across 30,000 m² In the distance, is the Regards located right in the centre of de Provence Museum Marseille, between the Vieux- The Musée Regards de Provence, Port and the Panier and Joliette housed in the former sanitary neighbourhoods. station, designed by Fernand Its architecture, combining Pouillon in 1948 and officially modern and historic, is a symbol listed as Heritage Building of the of Marseille’s past glory and its Twentieth Century. It celebrates renewal: the fort Saint-Jean, a 17th its collections of paintings, century historic monument that drawings, photographs and has been totally restored, is linked sculptures related to Marseille, by a narrow footbridge soaring Provence, and the Mediterranean, above the sea to the J4, a cube from the eighteenth century clad in a delicate web of concrete, to the present. It also presents designed by the architect Rudy Memories of the Sanitary Station, Ricciotti in collaboration with the permanent artistic, historical Roland Carta. and multimedia documentary. Temporary exhibitions, bookshop A rich and varied program and restaurant. The Mucem’s unique architecture embraces the J4 and the fort On your left you will notice the Saint-Jean. Divided between these foundations of the cathedral, two sites, its exhibitions reflect you can see Les Voûtes which the richness and diversity of welcome shops, restaurants, Mediterranean civilizations and are markets etc.. accompanied by a vibrant program In the past, port warehouses were of performances, concerts, films, found here and «peseurs-jurés», talks and other events. a profession which has today Visit the J4 esplanade disappeared.. The J4 comes from the name of Here you have a choice between the port of the passenger ships two routes: Joliette 1, Joliette 2… Formerly, this space welcomed Panier old town (p15) via the travellers and immigrants coming monumental staircase or explore to Marseilles, and then the area the new Euroméditerranée was left without real function, (p12) area by turning left onto the until the ambitious project for a Boulevard du Littoral. cultural centre, boosted by the nomaination in 2008 of Marseilles Both routes lead to the Old Port. as European Capital of Culture.

14 15 EUROMEDITERRANEE district

Launched in 1995, Euroméditerranée is a huge operation to rehabilitate more than 480 hectares in the heart of the Marseille metropolis. This economic, social and cultural development is the largest urban renovation project in Southern Europe and is a boost to international appeal and influence. The biggest architects are building the city of tomorrow: Zaha Hadid’s CMA-CGM tower, Jean Nouvel’s quais d’Arenc, Rudy Ricciotti’s Mucem, Eric Castaldi and Roland Carta’s Silo, Massimiliano Fuksas’s Euromed Center and Norman Foster’s pedestrianisation of the Vieux Port, etc.

Take on your left the Boulevard du Zaha Hadid (Pritzker Prize) in Littoral to Les terrasses du Port 2011. Les Terrasses du Port On the left is located Les Terrasses The tower houses the du Port, Hammerson’s 190 units headquarters of the shipping shopping centre, it stands between company CMA-CGM. the sea and the Docks.Thanks to its shops opened on the street, In front of the building, you can its restaurants and its cultural see the group of sumo wrestlers activities, the Terrasses du Port is a nod towards the CMA-CGM contribute to the city’s life. Company and its main activity: the With 2600 m2 of promenade shipment of containers across all on the sea, Les Terrasses du Port the oceans of the world. aimed at providing a new view The work named “It Takes two to point on the sea and on Marseille. Tango” is signed by Scottish artist Parking: 2600. David Mach. On the right, Docks Village and in front of you The Euromed centre is under These superbly renovated the supervision of Italian architect, nineteenth century warehouses Massimiliano Fuksas, where you have become a key attraction. will find a convention centre, a Since 2015, the building is home hotel and a multiplex cinema. to shops, restaurants, and artists in a lively new site to visit that In the middle of the complex is open seven days a week. you’ll find LeThéâtre de la Joliette Expositions and other events - La Minoterie which opened in make Docks Village a pleasant September 2013 and provides the distraction for visitors to the heart public with a library, food court, of the new Marseille.” two concert venues (280 and 100 seater), two rehearsal rooms and Carry on and you’ll reach the Silo a room for the performers. The Silo is a 2000-seat auditorium On your left, continue on the opened since September 2011. boulevard de Dunkerque That’s a wonderful place with sea view to organize cultural events The departmental archives (opera, concerts, ballets …) and This building was designed by professional meetings in the heart architect Corinne Vezzoni in 2005 of Euromediterranee area. which is also responsible for the reserves of the Mucem and From here you see The CMA- houses not only the departmental CGM Tower archives but also the temporary exhibitions linked to the Bouches- Measuring 147 metres, it is the du-Rhône department. tallest office buiding in Marseille. 16 It was built by Anglo-Iraqi architect Come back to the Boulevard 3 different complexes: de Dunkerque. • The Heritage complex which brings together on the site of the The FRAC PACA old Tobacco Factory the CICRP This building designed by (interregional centre for the Japanese architect Kengo Kuma conservation and restoration of is situated in the heart of the the heritage) and the Municipal Euroméditerranée district Its Archives. aim is to collect and display a collection of contemporary • The Media complex for art, plan and put on temporary audiovisual and multimedia exhibitions, meeting/conference professionals, and film studios and publication programs, as made famous in France thanks well as organising awareness and to the popular television soap training campaigns for various opera Plus Belle la Vie. audiences. The studios cannot be visited. Opposite, you will find an orange • Pole authors: sculpture by Charly Bové and Theater Massalia for children Miguel Chevalier. Nicknamed and restaurants, «Second Nature», it must be seen Les grandes tables de la friche at night during the projection of organizes workshops opened images onto the Dock’s facade. to the amateurs of cooking. Continue to the place de la www.euromediterranee.fr Joliette. To join the Old Port take the You can join the Old Port by la rue de la République rue de la République or extend (tramway or bus 55) the tour at the Euroméditerranée going to La Friche de la Belle de The rue de la République, Mai by bus number 49. formerly rue Imperiale, was opened during the Second La Friche de la Belle de Mai Empire and is the only Haussman cultural centre style street in Marseille. A link between the Old Port A reinvented and enlarged Friche and the new Joliette trading with all the colours of the world port, it was a financial failure and its creators for 365 days! because this model of architecture Contemporary art exhibitions, regarded as too Parisian was concerts, shows (music, dance, never accepted in Marseille. theatre, etc.) cinema, video, In the framework of the festivals, digital art installations, Euroméditerranée project, the urban and underground culture, rue de la République was given a etc. total rehabilitation and its shops and apartment buildings were For 2013, young architect Mathieu renovated. It now offers a very Poitevin completed the panorama pleasant stroll from the Old Port tower which hosts performances for window shopping and to and exhibitions. admire the superb façades. Guided tour programmed by the Tourism and Convention Bureau.

17 THE PANIER DISTRICT

The Panier disrict beggars of Marseille”. The architect Located on the northern end of Pierre Puget began work on it in the Old Port, the Panier district is 1670 but it was not completed the historic heart of Marseille, the until 1749. Puget designed here site where the Greeks founded one of his finest architectural the city. This district is called “Le achievements. The chapel in the Panier” (basket) from the sign of centre of the building was inspired the inn called “Le Logis du panier” th by the Roman baroque style, as installed in the 17 century on can be seen in its oval cupola. The the present rue du Panier. The th Panier district has been carefully façade dates from the 19 century rehabilitated and today you will and evokes the theme of Charity. find numerous crafts shops, The building was saved from museums and restaurants in this destruction thanks to the efforts maze of narrow streets. of Le Corbusier in the 1950s. The Vieille Charité today houses THE CATHEDRALS : museum administrations, several museums, a bookshop and a tea Vieille Major : room. From the 5th century on, several Place des Moulins : buildings succeeded each other on this site, but the present church The culminating point of the dates from the middle of the 12th district, this small shady square century. It is a very fine example with its benches and its school is a of Provençal Romanesque haven of peace in the heart of the architecture built in pink stone district. In the old days it featured (from the Couronne quarry, north forty windmills. Today the square of Marseille). The construction only has two, while the others of the new cathedral removed were transformed into houses. two bays of the Vieille Major but revealed an early Christian Go back down through the baptistery with impressive square to Rue Caisserie. Pass the dimensions, over 25 metres on Hôtel Dieu you’ll reach the front each side, not visible today (closed of Hôtel de Cabre. to the public). L’Hôtel de Cabre : Nouvelle Major : L’Hôtel de Cabre is the oldest Marseille began to experience house in Marseille (dating from in the 19th century tremendous 1535). Miraculously spared during social, demographic and economic the destruction of the old districts expansion. A period of major during the winter of 1943, it was construction projects got under rotated to fit into the alignment of way in Marseille and a series the new street. of very fine buildings emerged. You cross the rue de la From 1852 on, three architects République to succeeded each other in the construction of this immense The Museum of the History cathedral in the Roman-Byzantine of Marseille and the Old Port: style: Vaudoyer, Espérandieu This completely renovated and Revoil. The cathedral is the museum reconstructs the history point of departure for the great of France’s oldest city in thirteen procession on 15 August for sequences from the Cosquer Sainte-Marie Majeure whose Cave,the Greek settlement statue is carried around the Panier through to modern times and the district. present day.The visit benefits from multimedia and a children’s tour. It Vieille Charité Arts Centre: presents the only visible remains A royal decree in 1640 ordered of the Greco-Roman period of the construction of a General Marseille. Exit by the Ancient Port Hospital to care for the poor and and along the Grand’Rue. 19 AROUND THE OLD PORT THE SOUTHERN SIDE

In 1660 Louis XIV ordered the techniques, he also introduced expansion of the city and the innovations and was the first to construction of an arsenal on the heat the little figurines that had southern side of the Old Port. hitherto been made of dried clay. Numerous streets were laid out, private mansions set around a Le Four des Navettes courtyard and garden were built, The oldest bakery in Marseille and the bourgeoisie left the old occupies this legendary address city to live in these new elegant facing the Abbey of Saint-Victor. It districts. possesses a completely round oven, built in 1781 on the Roman model. Take the cours Jean Ballard and The “navettes”, (orange-flower turn to the right on Cours biscuits), a speciality of the bakery, d’Estienne d’Orves are blessed on 2 February, the feast of Chandeleur (Candlemas) and A favourite centre for night-life, this scent the street with the delicate lively pedestrian district contains aroma of orange flower. numerous restaurants, cafés, galleries, shops and night clubs. Abbaye Saint-Victor A key centre of Christianity in Arsenal des Galères the Middle Ages, the founding of The Arsenal des Galères was the Abbey of Saint Victor goes built in 1666 to demonstrate the back to the end of the 5th century strength and prestige of the royal but Christians had already been power. In 1748, the Arsenal was coming together around the tomb transferred to Toulon and this of the martyr from the 3rd century. area was then re-used for the The church which was fortified construction of a district laid out in the 11th century dominates on geometric lines which today is the Old Port. For the feast of the pride of Marseille’s inhabitants. Chandeleur (Candlemas), at 6:00 At the bottom of the courtyard, on the morning of 2 February, turn right onto the Place aux a crowd of the faithful gather Huiles then left onto the Rive around the statue of the Black Neuve bank where you’ll go past Virgin, carried in procession in the Bar de la Marine made famous by presence of the Archbishop to Marcel Pagnol and his legendary bless the city and boats, before attending mass. “card game.” From the abbey esplanade you La Criée : Théâtre National can see Fort Saint Nicolas and de Marseille : The Fish Market Palais du Pharo below. occupied this building until 1975 when it was transferred Fort Saint-Nicolas : to the north of Marseille in the fishing port of Saumaty. With its In 1660 the Chevalier de Clerville preserved original façade, this built the Fort of Saint-Nicolas on building has a cultural destiny once the orders of king Louis XIV who more, with the creation in 1981 of wished to dissuade the people a national theatre now directed by of Marseille from any thought of Macha Makeïeff. rebellion. This site once held a tower used to operate the chain Going up on the left on the rue that closed the entrance to the du Plan Fourmiguier to rue port. Taken off as a trophy after Neuve Sainte-Catherine: the sacking of the city by an army from Aragon in 1423 (Sac des The Marcel Carbonel Aragonnais), this chain is now Christmas creche figurines in Valencia cathedral in Spain. workshop: Marcel Carbonel, During the Second Empire, during the founder, realised his childhood the construction of the Imperial dream here. Beginning in 1935, Residence (the Pharo), the fort he created his own models which was cut in two to make a road, he painted in bright colours. thus destroying the symbol of 20 Respectful of the ancestral royal authority MARSEILLE from NOTRE DAME DE LA GARDE

A panorama that will take your breath away! A 360° sweep from l’Estaque in the north to the Calanques in the south, taking in the Frioul islands and the Château d’If. This exploration of Marseille seen from above is an essential treat for visitors.

From the hill of Notre Dame de of Marseille and its tourists, who la Garde, the culminating point have not hesitated in recent years of the city, you can discover one to finance part of the restoration by one the different districts of thanks to their donations. Marseille and visit the basilica, The lofty church is decorated the city’s emblematic monument. with mosaics and numerous ex Guided tour of Notre Dame de votos, eloquent testimonials of la Garde and its ex votos with the people’s faith. The campanile Tourism and Convention Bureau supports the monumental statue (consult its programme). Three of the Virgin gilded with gold leaf direction-finding tables enable by the Christofle workshops. you to identify the monuments Opening hours: Winter, from 7.30 and the surrounding geographic am to 5.30 pm - Summer, from 7 features. am to 7 pm. To Notre Dame de la Garde On the spot: the restaurant l’Eau from the Old Port Vive and a shop selling souvenirs, religious books, medals. • By bus 60, departure every 20 min, The Musée d’Art Sacré • By land train, Notre Dame (Sacred Art Museum) de la Garde tour and with Nap This contemporary route through Tourisme City Tour and the the heart of the basilica tells you Colorbüs of Marseille: leaving everything you need to know from the Vieux Port. Information about Marseille’s legendary and tickets at the Tourist Office landmark: 800 years of sanctuary and Convention Bureau. history, ex voto collection, mosaics, • On foot, for keen walkers, an models, audio-visuals. itinerary is proposed from the Old Port. Follow the circuit with the You can also choose to go explanatory panels. It lasts about back down by foot to the city 45 min. centre by going through the Jardin de la Colline: The Basilica of Notre Dame de You go past the Char Jeanne la Garde: The Fort of the Garde, d’Arc, a Sherman tank that took some of which still remains, was part in the liberation of Marseille built by François I in 1524 to during the summer of 1944. protect Marseille from the armies Go down the street on the left of the Holy Roman Emperor th and over the small bridge to enter Charles V. In the 13 century, a the garden. The Jardin de la Colline church was built here and was (garden of the hill), laid out in the gradually transformed into a 19th century, is the oldest public centre of devotion for sailors. garden in Marseille and offers The first ex votos date from this a unique view over the city. You period. The present basilica dates arrive on the Cours Pierre Puget. from the Second Empire and This road, opened in the early was built in the Roman-Byzantine 19th century, is lined with private style by the architect Henry mansions that were formerly the Espérandieu. The emblematic offices of maritime companies and monument of Marseille, “the banks. Good Mother” is dear to all the citizens

22 Marseille harbour If Castle and the Frioul Islands

Treat yourself to a boat trip for a few hours from the Marseille harbour, one of the finest in the world! From the Old Port, numerous boat trips are proposed to the Frioul islands, the Château d’If, the Calanques and the Marseille coastlines. For an easy cruise, to have a swim or a ramble on shore, don’t hesitate any longer and get on board!

The Frioul archipelago Regular connections Formed of four islands: Pomègues, to the Frioul islands (30 min) Ratonneau, If and Tiboulen, the and the Château d’If (20 min) archipelago offers a remarkable from the Old Port. natural heritage. It is also an Frioul If Express : integral part of the Calanques Tel : +33 (0)4 96 11 03 50 National Park where you can www.frioul-if-express.com enjoy unrivalled views of it. It is therefore protected by the Park’s Tickets to visit the Château d’If specific rules. Tel : +33 (0)4 91 59 02 30 The islands shelter over 99 species www.if.monuments-nationaux.fr of sea birds, and over 300 rare and protected plant species. Ports of call for the sailors of The shuttle: the Mediterranean, warriors or Take to the open sea with RTM! adventurers, these islands were In summer, three sea shuttles are also used as anchoring points for available : the boats put into quarantine to • Pointe Rouge - Vieux-Port - protect the city from epidemics. In Pointe Rouge the early 19th century, the architect • Pointe Rouge - Les Goudes - Michel-Robert Penchaud built the Pointe Rouge. Hôpital Caroline on Ratonneau • Vieux-Port - Estaque - Vieux- island to care for sailors who had Por t contracted yellow fever. Le Frioul Timetables and prices: is a port with 700 docking spaces www.rtm.fr which receives numerous yachting holiday-makers. Pomègues island has a fish farm that breeds sea Cruises in the bay bass and bream, and it was one of of Marseille the first in the world to obtain the from the Old Port “organic fish farm” label. Bleu Evasion Tel. +33 (0)6 34 13 74 22 [email protected] The Château d’If King François 1, when Localanque he visited Marseille in 1516, was Tel.+ 33 (0)6 10 11 43 58 the first to measure the strategic www.localanque.com importance of this little island and ordered a fortress to be built on it. The work was completed in 1531. The castle with its three towers and a keep henceforth guarded access to Marseille harbour. Very soon it became a prison and its most famous prisoner was the Count of Monte Cristo, from the imagination of Alexandre Dumas. The novel was such a success that numerous visitors came to see the hole dug by Edmond Dantès… when legend met up with reality! 24 From the Pharo palace to the Prado seaside park

Departure from the Old Port, with bus no. 83, by bicycle or on foot along the Corniche. Opened in the middle of the 19th century, the Corniche soon became a holiday attraction very popular with the people of Marseille who gradually discovered the pleasures of swimming in the sea. Forming a stunning balcony over the Mediterranean more than 5 kilometres in length, the Corniche attracts strollers, fishermen and joggers or simply dreamers in quest of distant horizons.

Palais du Pharo Maison M The Pharo Palace is an ancient This highly original private house imperial residence of Napoleon was built in 1980 by Edouard III who in 1852 when staying in Sarxian and is a reminder of the Marseille decided he wanted a influence of the Mediterranean: “residence at the water’s edge”. the blue, white, the porticos and After serving as a Medical School, the mosaics. it is now dedicated to the organisation of congresses, Vallon des Auffes seminars and conventions. Hidden away under the Corniche, this little fishing port offers Swimming Circle strollers a thousand colourful Marseille Swimming Circle, a details where traditional private club started in 1921 Mediterranean “pointu” fishing by the Spanish-born architect boats, fishermen’s huts and Picornell. turquoise water compose an ideal Through its training policy, postcard view. Marseille Swimming Circle has From pizzeria to Michelin been one of the main sources star restaurants, including of French water polo players traditional restaurants serving for decades. bouillabaisse, Vallon des Auffes is a recommended gastronomical Plage des Catalans centre. Access by the stairways. This small beach near the Old Port is very popular with the Monument aux Morts des people of Marseille who come in Armées d’Orient et terres family groups to swim. Restaurants, lointaines showers, cloakrooms, rest-rooms This monument was erected by and a volleyball pitch (reserved to the architect Castel in 1927 to the members of the volleyball club) memory of the soldiers of all faiths are proposed. «who died for France» in North Africa.

26 Anse de Malmousque Villa Valmer Maldormé The villa was built in 1865 by the It was when the Corniche road Marseille architect Condamin, in was opened that this district of a renaissance style, overlooking fishermen became popular. There a vast park planted with tropical are still fishermen’s huts here plant species brought back as well as the sumptuous villas from his voyages in the East by the owner, a rich trader in overlooking the Mediterranean. oilseeds. The villa belongs to the It is the setting for the restaurant municipality today and the public of Gérald Passédat awarded 3 park offers an extraordinary view stars by the Michelin Guide. of Marseille harbour.

Fausse monnaie viaduct Château Berger During the construction of the This little folly was built for Baron viaduct, in 1861, workers are said Houitte de la Chesnaye in 1860 to have discovered a quantity of in the French renaissance style counterfeit money when digging of the Château de Chambord. the foundations. In the Vallon de A seawater spa centre has been la Fausse Monnaie is the Théâtre open here for many years. Silvain, opened in 1923, which puts on open-air concerts and ballet performances. Villa Gaby On the heights of the Corniche, this sumptuous villa was built Le Marégraphe for Gaby Deslys, a music-hall This small building built in the late singer in the early 20th century. 19th century is the key measuring The villa cannot be visited and point of the public network of tide belongs to the Marseille public gauges which serves as the point hospital authority. No visit is of origin of all altitudes and tides. programmed for the villa, which is It can be visited as part of the today an event location for parties, guided tours of the Tourism and seminars, conventions. Convention Bureau. La plage du Prophète The seaside villas This sandy beach is frequented at all hours of the day and night. The leading industrial families In the morning by the habitués and the bourgeoisie of Marseille of the district who come for a flocked to the lands made stroll and a chat, in the daytime accessible by the Corniche to by families and in the evening build villas rivalling each other in by young people who improvise originality and fantasy. The seaside unforgettable parties. “follies” built during the Second Empire are testimonials to the wealth and maritime power of L’Hélice de César Marseille during this period. This sculpture was executed in Some residences are still in private 1971 by César, a native of the city, hands, while others belong to in homage to the French settlers the municipality. repatriated from North Africa. From the esplanade you can see in the distance the islands of Marseille that mark the entry into the Calanques. You can see the Prado seaside park and its green spaces which are the final point of this itinerary

27 From the Prado seaside park to the Goudes

Beaches, gardens, a marina, restaurants and cafés share this colourful coastal strip which all year round puts on numerous sports and cultural events, most of them free.

The Prado seaside park Ecole Nationale Supérieure In spite of its 57 km coastline, de Danse (National School of Marseille had no beach until 1975, Dance) when the Prado seaside park was Founded in 1992 on the initiative created by using the excavations of Roland Petit, the Ecole of the Metro to reclaim land from Nationale Supérieure de Danse the sea: its 26 hectares of parkland de Marseille trains professional and 10 hectares of sandy and fine dancers gravel beaches welcome each year nearly 3.5 million visitors. Borély racecourse and golf course The reefs This racecourse by the sea, laid 30,000 m3 of reefs lie on the sea out in the 19th century, was bed parallel to the beaches of the restored in 2001. Inside the Prado, protecting and increasing racecourse is a 9-hole compact the marine resources of the south golf course, 2 driving ranges, a pro of Marseille bay and restoring life shop and a restaurant. to the sea bed. L’Escale Borély The statue of David This seaside complex which is This replica of the statue by very popular with the people of Michelangelo carved in Carrara Marseille and tourists features marble was donated by the Ecole shops, restaurants, discotheques, des Beaux Arts de Marseille in cafés, public and private beaches, 1956 and fits into the perspective activities for children, etc. of the Prado. You can continue on towards Borély park and its château Goudes or turn left at the The park covering roundabout towards Bonneveine. 17 hectares features a rose garden, a botanical César’s Thumb sculpture garden and an 18th century This sculpture by César was château. It offers bicycle rentals, installed in 1998 to mark the ball games, paddleboat trips and opening of the Museum of fairground rides for all the family. Contemporary Art (MAC). The bronze Thumb is 6 m high Open all year round from 6 am and weighs 4 tonnes! to 9 pm. The [mac]: Now fully restored, the château Contemporary Art Museum Borély, masterpiece of 18th century architecture, houses over 1400 m2 The MAC is recognised of exhibition space devoted to the on the international art scene musée des Arts décoratifs, de la and brings together a rich Faïence et de la Mode. In all, 200 collection of art from the second pieces of furniture, 563 decorative half of the 20th century. It features objets d’arts, 750 ceramic pieces, paintings, sculptures, photographs, 5,600 fashion items and 1,600 videos and installations by major accessories, 100 bottles of artists. perfume, etc

28 From the Prado seaside park to the Goudes

In the direction of Mazargues Return to Catsellane square or when leaving the MAC through the Old Port by bus 21. the Bortoli garden Previously a fishing village, From the Escale Borély continue Mazargues is a residential district along the coast: which has preserved its village atmosphere. Le Bowl The obelisk was erected in 1811 Skaters from all over the world by the architect Michel-Robert come here to enjoy the attractions Penchaud. of this skatepark built in 1991 and regarded as one of the biggest in Go on the boulevard Michelet - Europe. On foot or Bus 21 Plage de la Pointe Rouge La Cité Radieuse Le Corbusier A beach of fine sand, with fairly The Cité Radieuse (radiant city) shallow water, it is the ideal place is a building 165 m long by 24 m for families to go swimming. Lined wide and 56 m high. Resembling with beach huts and restaurants an urban liner anchored in a park, where you can enjoy a pizza or a this building of the architect Le BBQ beside the water… Family Corbusier was built between fun guaranteed! 1947 and 1951. Raw concrete RTM ferries during summer and pilings are combined with season (april-september). polychrome loggias and the unit contains 337 apartments of 23 Parc Pastré different types, a hotel and a In direction of the Calanques, the restaurant. public parc Pastré is a pleasant place to enjoy games, walking trails Special ! Tour of the Cité near the pond and across the hills. Radieuse and an appartment with the Tourism and Conference Les Goudes district Office. Registration mandatory. Located near the entrance to the Calanques in the 8th In the former gym on the district of Marseille, this district terrace roof of the MAMO has preserved the charm and (Marseille Modulor), Designer ambience of a fishing village. Ora-Ito has opened a design Numerous fishermen’s huts have and contemporary art centre. been renovated and are now Temporary exhibitions. inhabited all year round. RTM ferries during summer Unité d'habitation in Marseille included in season (april-september).

NIO M O UN IM D R T IA

A L

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W Diving is easy in Marseille!

A I

D L D N Dive in!

H O E M R I E TA IN G O E • PATRIM The natural variety and the quality United Nations The Architectural Work of Le Corbusier, Educational, Scientiﬁc and an Outstanding Contribution of the undersea world around Cultural Organization to the Modern Movement Marseille have made it become inscribed on the World Heritage List in 2016 very popular among divers and La Bastide de la Magalone swimmers. Set out with your family to An elegant 18th century country discover the sea bed with a mansion with a French formal qualified monitor. garden, fountains and classical sculptures. The Magalone now Try the scuba diving. houses a music school. For children from 8 year old. Reservations : www.resamarseille.com 29 Entrance of the Calanques

From the Goudes, take the no. 20 bus because the road is long… You are still in the municipality of Marseille, but you can see the contrast with the agitation of the city centre. For over 20 km, nature recovers its rights and only a rambler can enjoy the landscape. The Calanques are worth the effort! From Callelongue, in just 45 min, you reach the first Calanque and get an unforgettable panoramic view of the islands of Marseille. The landscape’s magnitude will thrill you

Callelongue Marseilleveyre The road comes to an end at this The Calanque de Marseilleveyre is narrow but very long Calanque accessible to all in 45 min. Sturdy as its name indicates (calanque shoes and water are indispensable longue/Callelongue). once you start going over the One gets the impression that time Massif. has stood still in this district with its old-world charm. Les Calanques Fishermen’s huts with evocative Over 97% of the Massif des names, nets drying on fishing Calanques is located within the boats, kayaks gliding on the water municipality of Marseille, and further out from the shore… it stretches for 20 km as far as Cassis. With a total area of 5,000 You will also find here the point hectares, it has been a listed site of departure of the GR 98 hiking since 1975. The name “Calanque” route which crosses the Massif comes from the Latin “Calanca”, des Calanques as far as Cassis. It meaning a rocky creek. In takes more than one day (11h for Provençal, a “Cala” is a steep slope. an experienced hiker) to “do” the Calanques.

La Calanque de

30 The archaeological richness Entry to the park is strictly of the site was confirmed by controlled due to the risk of forest the discovery in 1991 of the fires, especially between June and Cosquer cave, the oldest painted September. underwater cave, dating from 27,000 years before our time and Before hiking, please check entry listed as a Historical Monument in terms in summer on: 1992 (closed to the public). + 33 (0) 811 20 13 13 (0.06 €/min) or on the Bouches- A site of absolute freedom and du-Rhône Prefecture website a total change of scenery in the (www.bouches-du-rhone.gouv.fr) heart of Marseille, this fragile area is a victim of its growing popularity Public transport is available to among tourists coming by land the park’s main entry points and by sea. (Callelongue, Baumettes, Luminy). With over 2 million visitors per Information on the RTM transport year, the site is one of the most operator website (www.rtm.fr) visited places in France. Departing from the Old Port, In 2012 the Calanques Massif several navigation companies became a National Park. propose a cruise in the Calanques as far as Cassis, lasting around This is the biggest peri-urban park 3h30. in Europe and the only French national park that’s peri-urban, This boat trip is a magical land and sea-based. exploration of the Calanques from the sea. The Calanques are bursting with fabulous flora and fauna. Over • Croisières Marseille Calanques 9000 species of plants thrive here www.croisieres-marseille-calanques.com and rare species, such as Bonelli’s • Icard Maritime eagle, come here to breed. www.visite-des-calanques.com Tél : +33(04) 91 333 679 A national park is an exceptional area that’s open to everyone but Ordnance survey maps and is also everyone’s responsibility. It topographical guides are on sale is therefore protected by specific in the shop of the Tourism and rules e.g. you cannot light a fire, Convention Bureau. smoke or set up camp in the Calanques National Park. Information on the Park’s website: www.calanques-parcnational.fr 31 The orange Velodrome

The arena of the hours of glory of the OM football team, the Vélodrome Stadium is one of the best-known stadiums in the whole world. Owned by the City of Marseille, it is the second largest French stadium, after the Stade de France.

The stadium you have in The sport symbol of Marseille and view, currently undergoing of French football, the Olympique reconstruction, is the 3rd de Marseille club has won the generation Velodrome Stadium. most titles in France. In fact, the first building, dating OM unifies and assembles back to 1937 and even conserved supporters of every religion and the cycle tracks which circled the from every social category for a grass until the 1980s. single objective: to win! The whole For the 1998 World Cup, in order city vibrates with its team. to host important matches, it was completely renovated apart from Exclusive ! Visit the Orange its original facade, and expanded Velodrome with the Tourist and to fill a capacity of 60,000 Convention bureau Registration spectators, which has allowed mandatory. it to become a multi- purpose www.resamarseille.com site offering not only football and rugby but also prestigious OM official shops: concerts. Orange Vélodrome : 3 bd From the perspective of Euro Michelet, 13008 Marseille - 2016, work on the renovation of 10h à 18h the stadium began in June 2011 +33(0)4 91 24 82 75 and is due for completion in 2014. In addition to putting a roof Canebière : 44, la Canebière, over all the stands and taking 13001 Marseille - 10h à 19h capacity to 67,000 seats, the + 33 (0)4 91 39 30 30 modernisation project will be accompanied by the creation Valentine : centre commercial of an economic attraction Géant Casino, route de la sablière pole comprising shops, offices, 13011 Marseille - 9h à 20h restaurants and hotels. +33 (0)4 91 01 80 10 Access bus 21 or Metro line 2 - www. boutique.om.net Rond Point du Prado stop Return to the Old Port by the The Olympique de Marseille team no. 21 bus + metro line 1 or 2 celebrated in 2010 its 110 years or no. 83 bus by the Corniche of history!

32 Around Castellane / Prado

Go down the avenue du Prado in the direction of Castellane.

Le parc Chanot Le Sacré Cœur The Parc Chanot today hosts This basilica was built to the city’s Parc des Expositions commemorate the bicentenary of (Exhibition Centre) and the Palais the plague epidemic of 1720 and des Congrès (Convention Centre). is a votive sanctuary of the Sacred The two Colonial Exhibitions of Heart. A baroque music festival is 1906 and 1922 were held in these held here each year in October. centres and have left as witness the superb entrance gates and the Prado market Palais des Arts. The International The Prado market is open Fair of Marseille takes place each every morning from Monday to year in September, as well as Saturday. It offers fruits, vegetables numerous other fairs and trade and spices as well as clothing shows. There is also a vast public and shoes, often off-label at garden, a concession stand stall, very attractive prices. On Friday merry-go-round, Punch & Judy morning the flower market is held, show, etc. an explosion of colours and scents. Le Prado Place Castellane This avenue with its right-angled This lively square links the city prolongation is one of the centre to the residential districts major thoroughfares of the city, of the Prado. The busy square linking the city centre to the features a metro station, tramway, sea. Inaugurated by the Duc restaurants, cinemas and the d’Orléans in 1839, the first Prado market. stretched in a straight line for 1.6 km. In 1892, the opening of the boulevard Michelet prolonged the Prado by 2.5 km and created a nice view from the Porte d’Aix to the Obélisque de Mazargues.

34 It is a popular meeting place at all It also contains splendid theme hours of the day and night. In 1911 gardens, a delightful lake and the the marble worker Jules Cantini Tree of Hope with the names of offered the city the monumental 500,000 Marseille inhabitants. fountain, whose principal figure is This previously industrial district that of Marseille enthroned on the has been redeveloped since 2001. top of the column, flanked by the Close to the city centre as well as Mediterranean and the Durance, to the motorways, the district is Rhône and Gardon rivers. attracting increasing numbers of inhabitants. See Marseilles on the chemins de travioles Palais Omnisports Marseille Through the antiquarian quarter Grand Est and along secret streets and In the heart of the Capelette unfamiliar steps you will discover district undergoing rapid urban a secret of Marseille taking you development, this centre offers to the top of the town and the facilities for enthusiasts of ice esplanade of Notre Dame de la sports and urban skating covering Garde. (rue Edmond Rostand, over 20,000 sq m. Opened in quartier des Antiquaires, les hauts 2010, it is unique in Europe. de Breteuil and boulevard Vauban). Within 5 floors it ofters an See the city map. Olympic skating rink of 1,800 1 sq m, a fun rink of 250 sq m, 2 Return to Vieux-Port by metro an indoor skate-park with four 3 line 1- tramway T3- Bus 41 skill levels, a shop, a restaurant 4 Or take the direction la and numerous meeting rooms. 5 Capelette through Jules Cantini Environment-friendly, it is equipped avenue. with 110 sq m of photovoltaic panels. Parc du XXVIe centenaire 12, bd Fernand Bonnefoy To commemorate the 26 Tel: +33 (0)4 91 16 52 70 centuries of Marseille, a 1 Bus no. 18, stop on avenue de la public park was laid out on 2 Capelette and bus no. 72, stop on the site of a former goods train 3 boulevard Bonnefoy. station. The old station roof and 4 the layout of the rails set the 5 tone of the park, a geometric and original design for an urban landscape.

35 From the Prefecture to the canebière

From the Place Castellane, turn onto the rue de Rome. The rue du Rome was recently equipped with the tramway. The rue de Rome is a busy shopping street with shops for all tastes and for all budgets. The Prefecture district is famous for its numerous shops selling antiques, decorative items and old books. Small restaurants welcome you in a cosy retro atmosphere.

Préfecture Antique shop district Marseille is the police This district, built in the 19th headquarters of the Provence century, groups around the Alpes Côte d’Azur Region. Built Prefecture a large number of during the Second Empire, the antique shops and, increasingly, imposing building of the Prefecture vintage antique shops. You will punctuates the perspective of the certainly find here designer lamps rue Saint Ferréol. and pieces of furniture from the 1930s to the 1970s. On the rue de Rome corner, you On four Sundays of the year a big can see the memorial of the King Antiques-Secondhand market is of Yugoslavia and the Minister held here. of Foreign Affairs Louis Barthou The district is then reserved for who were assassinated on La pedestrians, the shops move Canebière on 9 October 1934. out into the street and this big open-air market becomes a highly popular destination of Marseille shoppers and tourists.

36 La rue Paradis Rue Saint-Ferréol The longest street in Marseille, Familiarly known as the “rue Saint it runs for over 2.8 km from the Fé” by Marseille people, it is the Canebière to the Prado and principal pedestrian street of the through 3 city districts. city which derives its name from an early 3rd-century martyr. With its attractive shops selling When you walk along this street decorative items, tea rooms, you should not forget to look up florists, luxury clothing shops, at the upper storeys and roofs bank and company headquarters. rather than only into the shop The rue Paradis and its side- windows. streets give a distinctly bourgeois You will discover superb façades accent to this city so often from the Ancien Régime as well presented as working-class. as from the 19th and 20th century. Take special note of the fine Place Estrangin - Pastré buildings housing the Crédit This square is the headquarters Lyonnais bank, Mango and Eurodif. of the financial world of Marseille and reflected the wealth of On left - Rue Grignan Marseille in the 19th century. It Cantini museum - contains the Banque de France The famous Marseille marble- built in1885 and the headquarters worker Jules Cantini donated to of the Caisse d’Epargne bank the city this private town house built in 1904, decorated with an of the 17th century to create a allegory of saving. The Estrangin museum dedicated to modern family offered the city the fountain art. Opened to the public in 1936, whose sculptures represent it exhibits French collections allegories of Trade and Navigation, from 1900 to 1960, covering symbols of the maritime power of the Neo-Impressionists, Fauves, Marseille in the 19th century. early Cubists and Surrealists, up to artists of the 1960s. At the Cours Pierre Puget intersection of the rue Saint- This avenue was laid out in the Ferréol and the Canebière, an early 19th century on the line of interactive screen will help you to the ancient ramparts linking the locate your favourite retail chains. place Estrangin to the Jardin de la Colonne, the point of departure You can go back down on the for the walk up to Notre Dame left towards the Old Port or de la Garde. It also features the turn right on to the Canebière Palais de Justice (law courts) built and head towards the Palais in the 19th century in a neo- Longchamp. classical style.

37 From the Old Port to the Palais Longchamp

Vieux Port Municipal Opera House The Old Port is the cradle of the Built in the 18th century, the opera oldest city in France. house was partly destroyed by Born from the love of Protis the a fire in 1919. Of the original Greek for the Ligurian princess building it has kept only the main Gyptis, Marseille developed on the walls and the principal façade with northern bank of the Old Port. its Ionic columns. It was rebuilt in The Old Port is still today the an Art Deco style which adds to nerve centre of Marseille. The the originality of the building. The setting for great popular nautical, facade was entirely restored as cultural and sport events, it is also well as the beautiful art deco grills the most celebrated of the 14 and the lighting of the building is a marinas of the city with a capacity huge success. for 3,500 boats. Large sailing boats, Visit exclusively with the Tourism yachts and more modest vessels and Convention Bureau and by cohabit here, like Marseille, a reservation: www.resamarseille. varied and welcoming city. com Every morning since the XVII century under the Colbert’s Place Général de Gaulle jurisdiction, the fish market peps Palais de la Bourse up the Vieux Port. The Chamber of Commerce of The semi-pedestrianisation of Marseille is the oldest in France. the Old Port makes it even more It was set up in 1599 but it was attractive and Marseilles residents during the Second Empire that the have rediscovered the desire to building was erected to reflect the stroll peacefully along the quays commercial power of Marseille. and to once again stop to admire Designed by the architect Pascal the boats and the forts along the Coste, this edifice marked the way. launch of an unprecedented phase of construction of public buildings The Canebière in Marseille. The building houses Celebrated worldwide, the the Navy Museum. Canebière is the principal street of Marseille. The name Canebière Cours Belsunce and the Alcazar comes from the Provençal In the 17th century, following the “Canebe” meaning hemp, which example of the avenue laid out was used to make boats’ rigging. for carriages in Aix en Provence, Evoking the great years of Marseille decided that it needed maritime trade that enriched the one and it quickly became the city during the Second Empire, people’s favourite city outing. It it used to be packed with cafés, is named after Monseigneur de luxury hotels and department Belsunce who became famous stores. th during the great plague of 1720 In the late 19 century, Marseille and whose statue can be seen in had 281 cafés and 46 clubs. front of the cathedral. Today the Law University, The celebrated Alcazar music the presence of the tramway hall dates from 1857 and has and the coming of new retail featured concerts by numerous outlets enliven this legendary singers such as Yves Montand, Tino thoroughfare. Rossi and Johnny Halliday. A fire Guided tours programmed by destroyed it with the exception of the Tourism and Convention the awning which was saved and is Bureau: www.resamarseille.com now at the entrance of the BMVR regional municipal library.

38 With the recent work, the avenue Here the city’s Creche figurine has acquired a new lease on makers come for the Messe des life, with the tramway now the Santonniers on the 3rd Sunday favourite means of transport of November. The mass is said in instead of carriages! Provençal and marks the official opening of the Foire aux Santons La BMVR: Bibliothèque (Christmas Creche Figurine Fair). Municipal Regional Library This superb building designed by Boulevard Longchamp the architect Fainsilber (La Villette and the Longchamp Palace in Paris) covers 18,000 sq m This elegant boulevard was devoted to books. As well as for opened at the beginning of borrowing or consulting books, the 19th century and lined with it is used to put on temporary the typically Marseille model of exhibitions or for reading the apartment buildings called “three national and international press. windows”. The Longchamp Palace was built by Henry Espérandieu La Marseillaise Memorial but it was the engineer Franz 25 , rue Thubaneau Mayor de Montricher who built a Through music and images, canal over 85 km long beginning re-discover the epic history of in 1838 to convey the water of the world- renowned French the river Durance to the centre national anthem. The volunteers of the city. After 10 years of work from Marseille (fédérés) began and 18 aqueduct bridges later, their march to the Tuileries palace the monumental water tower in Paris from here, while singing celebrated the arrival of water in the Army of the Rhine war song Marseille. that would later become la Its public park is a haven of Marseillaise. peace in the city centre and each More information at the Museum summer it hosts the open-air of History Festival Marseille Jazz of the 5 Continents. Allées de Meilhan The Longchamp Palace also In 1666, the Allées de Meilhan houses houses the Museum of was laid out to create a public Fine Arts and the Museum of walk outside the ramparts of Natural History: The Museum of the city. Adopted by the people Fine Arts has been fully renovated of Marseille, the Allées hosted and particular attention has been since 1883 the Foire aux Santons paid to the exhibition areas which (Christmas Creche Figurine Fair) have gotten their former size which moved in 2009 to the back. 17th-19th century painting Canebière. and sculpture collections by Provençal and Italian schools have Eglise Saint Vincent de Paul returned to the museum’s walls. ou les Réformés This church is traditionally called “les Réformés” by the people of Marseille because it was built in 1855 in a gothic style on the site of the monastery of the Reformed Franciscans.

39 AROUND Cours Julien

Trendy Cours Julien is a lively and convivial district. Take your time to ramble about, find a rare stamp at the Stamp Market which is held every Sunday morning. Seek for the best deals at the flea market that takes place regularly or the 2nd Saturday of each month at the old books’ market and check out the organic products at the market held every Wednesday morning. One gets the impression here that time has stood still...

The church of Notre-Dame Lycée Thiers (secondary school) du Mont Right next door is the lycée Thiers Built between the late 18th and which is one of the city’s top early 19th century, this church secondary schools where Marel displays very fine paintings by Pagnol, Edouard Balladur, director Michel Serre and organises Daniel Mesquich and lawyer Paul numerous classical concerts. Lombard studied. At a stone’s throw from the Rue du théâtre français Cours Julien is the Plaine, officially This is where the theatre is found, named the place Jean Jaurès. managed by Dominque Bluzet for 10 years who also manages two Cours Julien more theatres in Aix-en-Provence. The old market garden It was built in 1804 on the site of warehouses have been taken an old convent destroyed during over by the shops of designers, the Revolution and presents an artists, secondhand dealers and Italian-style theatre. It was saved bookshops specializing in old from demolition in the 1980s books and comics. thanks to the municipality and The Cours Julien is a popular American philanthropist, Armand meeting place with a large choice Hammer. of cafés and small restaurants with their colourful terraces. Guided tour “Around the Cours Enjoy a free guided tour at the Julien” with the Tourism and Licorne soap workshop which will Convention Bureau (see their reveal the secret of how Marseille program). soap is made. The Plaine market Palais des Arts (Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday) The building was designed by Street market where you can find Henry Espérandieu during the clothes, food, all at a fair price Second Empire to house the School of Fine Arts, the library Return to the city centre from and the Medals Museum. Today the Cours Julien via the stairs on it houses the Pierre Barbizet the rue Estelle. National Regional Conservatory.

40 l’estaque Painters’ district

In the north of Marseille, at the foot of the Nerthe chain of mountains that protect it from the Mistral, the small port of l’Estaque is one of the most picturesque districts of the city. Its expansion in the 19th century was linked to the development of industry, notably roof tiles, cement and chemicals. The atmosphere of a working-class district is recreated in the film by Guédiguian “Marius et Jeannette” which was made in the old factories of l’Es t a q u e . But for lovers of painting, L’Estaque is above all the birthplace of modern painting

No. 35 bus from the place de la In the early 20th century it was Joliette, get off at Estaque Port. a popular venue for enjoying Triptime: about 1 / 2 hour. sea urchins, panisses, chichi and sardines in the hotels and In summer, you can also go to the restaurants by the water’s edge. Estaque on a shuttle boat from Not far from the small houses of the Old Port or reach the city fishermen and workers are the centre from Estaque. luxuriant gardens of sumptuous Timetables and prices: residences (Château Fallet, villa la www.rtm.fr Palestine, etc.) with their decor from the Thousand and One From the 1860s to the 1920s, Nights. influenced by Cézanne, numerous Impressionist, Cubist and Fauve Today, l’Estaque still perpetuates painters flocked here. Thanks its tasty traditions: chichi Freggi to the multiplicity of motifs, (fritter sprinkled with sugar), the diversity of shapes and and panisses (chickpea fritter.) colours, and its incomparable Three well-known stalls, “Magali”, light, l’Estaque was a source of “Chez Freddy” and “Au goût de inspiration for them. Dozens of la tradition” rival each other in paintings of l’Estaque can be found producing tasty local specialities. today in the greatest museums around the world. The festival of l’Estaque takes place in the first weekend of September Setting out from the port, follow and is celebrated for its nautical on foot the circuit marked out by entertainments, sardinades, giant plaques of enamelled lava: “The aïoli and popular open-air dances... Painters’ Path”. The walk lasts about 2 hours (See CIty map).

42 l’estaque Painters’ district

Espace Mistral The 2009 prize for urban development was awarded to Guided tours by the Tourism this district with a special mention Convention Bureau of Marseille in the category of towns with (see program) of the l’Estaque over 50,000 inhabitants. The jury district: “The Painters’ Path” and appreciated the landscaping and “The art of living in l’Estaque. the way the villas of l’Estaque fit into their exotic vegetation. Shopping Commercial Centre Grand Littoral : 200 shops 11 Avenue de Saint-Antoine 13015 Marseille Tel : + 33 (0)4 91 09 88 00 A tasty break > In l’Estaque you must stop at one of the three stalls making chichi. Essential specialities of this district, these three well- known halts for strollers will make you mouth water with their sweet and savoury treats made and cooked in front of you in a few minutes. Open in the afternoon from 3 pm.

43 the outskirts of Marseille

To the east of Marseille there are districts that have come through the centuries with their village identity and Provençal traditions intact. For this itinerary, a car is advised. We are in the footsteps of Marcel Pagnol “at the foot of the Garlaban in the time of the last goatherds...

Access by car from the A50 Château Gombert motorway in the direction of Access by metro line 1 La Rose Aubagne / Toulon, exit at Valentine, o station, then bus N°5 or by car take the road to Allauch / n . 12S with La Rose road in the direction bus from the metro line 1 - of the Château Gombert. La Timone station. This district located in the 13th arrondissement of Marseille has Camoins les bains the atmosphere of a Provençal A residential district with spa village. establishments specialising in respiratory diseases. Marseille has A typical Marseille treat at earned its label as the “spa city”. Christmas is a trip to the Château Gombert to admire the superb table of 13 desserts of the Musée La Treille du Terroir Marseillais (museum of This district dear to Marcel Pagnol local culture and customs) or to has the tranquillity of a village attend a concert sung in Provençal. of Provence soothed by the song of cicadas. It was here that young Marcel spent his holidays in the new country farmhouse at the foot of the Garlaban in the company of his parents, his brother and sister, as well as uncle Jules and aunt Rose. This gentle existence is described in his novels: “La Gloire de mon père”, “Le Château de ma mère” and “Le Temps des secrets”. La Treille is the point of departure for trails around the hills made famous by Pagnol.

Le Château de la Buzine Bought by the Mayor of Marseille in 1995 and completely renovated, the chateau is now the home of the “Maison des Cinématographies de la Méditerranée”, covering an area of 4,000 m2 with a 342 seat cinema, a permanent exhibition room on the theme of Mediterranean cinema, reception rooms, a library, a video library, an organic restaurant and a souvenir shop. 44 The traditions and culinary specialities

Marseille, a metropolis with 111 villages, has kept its popular and religious traditions. From the Foire aux Santons to Marseille soap and pastis, here are some examples of the living culture of Marseille

La Foire aux santons Le Pastis (Fair of Christmas creche Invented by Paul Ricard in 1932, figurines) the recipe for the Pastis of The strongest and the most Marseille is based on numerous popular tradition of Marseille, plants including aniseed, star anise whose origins go back to just after and fennel. It is drunk chilled, the Revolution. It is inaugurated among friends, with moderation each year on the last Sunday of and preferably in Marseille. November to the sound of fifes and drums. Navette Ends December 31st For over 200 years, the recipe of this biscuit flavoured with orange La Chandeleur (Candlemas) flower has been kept a secret. On 2 February each year, this feast ends the Christmas season Les Marseillotes with a mass at dawn in the A sweet treat imbued with all the Abbey of Saint-Victor. The statue flavours of Marseille and Provence: of the Black Virgin is brought up aniseed, orange, almond, honey from the crypt in a procession, and cocoa. accompanied by the faithful holding green candles. Aïoli A complete dish consisting of Marseille soap cod, potatoes, French beans or The manufacture of Marseille haricot beans, carrots and whelks. soap began under Louis XIV and It is seasoned with a mayonnaise expanded very rapidly in the 19th flavoured with garlic (“ail” in century. After losing ground with French, which gives it is name). the arrival of chemical detergents, Marseille soap has come back in Les pieds et paquets fashion thanks to its therapeutic (mutton tripe and hoofs) qualities. This Marseille speciality is made with sheep’s tripe and hoofs Pétanque cooked for 7 to 8 hours in a The true sport of Marseille, boules bouillon flavoured with white wine is a popular and omnipresent and herbs of Provence. sport played between the ages of 7 and 77. All the districts of Pistou (pesto soup) Marseille have their pétanque It consists of diced vegetables, ‘pitches’. Worth a try! red and white beans, courgettes, onions, tomatoes and pasta, pesto sauce made with garlic, basil, tomatoes and olive oil. A summer TO TASTE dish.. Bouillabaisse fish soup Les chichis et les panisses Originally regarded as a working- The chichis and the Panisses class dish cooked in the families of Specialities from Estaque district, fishermen, this simple and family the chichi freggi is a fritter dish is today ennobled by fish such sprinkled with sugar and the as monkfish or shellfish. Little tip Panisses are chickpea fritters. and secret of the recipe: when it boils, turn down the heat!

45 The museums OF MARSEILLE

The museums of Marseille present rich and varied collections from Antiquity to Contemporary Art. Unless otherwise indicated, museums are open every day except Mondays and certain public holidays from 10 am to 6 pm and in summer from 10 am to 6 pm. Free entrance to museums on the 1st Sunday of the month and with your City Pass.

OLD PORT DISTRICT Vieille Charité Museum Metro line 2: Joliette ; Marseille History Museum Tramway T2 ; Bus : 55 - 49 Metro line 1: Vieux-Port 2, rue de la Charité (2ème) Rue Henri Barbusse (1er) Tel. +33 (0)4 91 14 58 80 Tel. +33 (0)4 91 55 36 00 Combined ticket with the Roman - Museum of Mediterranean Docks Museum and the Marseillaise Archaeology Memorial Museum. - Museum of African, Oceanian and Native American Art Roman Docks Museum - Temporary exhibitions. Metro line 1: Vieux-Port Place Vivaux (2ème) La Maison de la Boule Tel. +33 (0)4 91 91 24 62 by la Boule Bleue Petanque and games of the Marseillaise Memorial Museum Provence. Place dedicated to the Metro line 2: Noailles games (history, museum, movies ..) 25, rue Thubaneau (1er) 4, place des 13 Cantons Marine and Economy Museum 13002 Marseille Metro line 1: Vieux-Port Tel. 04 88 44 39 44 Palais de la Bourse, la Canebière (1er) Open from Wednesday to Sunday Tel. +33 (0)4 91 39 33 21 from 10 am to 6 pm during ow Open every day from 10 am to season and everyday from 10 am 6 pm. to 7 pm during peak season Art and Crafts Museum EUROMEDITERRANEE Metro line 1: Vieux-Port / VIEUX PORT DISTRICT er 21, Cours Estienne d’Orves (1 ) Metro line 1 Vieux-Port or Joliette Tel. +33 (0)4 91 54 80 54 Metro line 2 : République/dames From Tuesday to Friday 10 am or Joliette - Bus 49, 82, 60 to 12 pm and 1 pm to 6 pm. Saturday 1 pm to 6 pm. Mucem Temporary exhibitions. Museum of European and Free admission Mediterranean Civilisations Tel : + 33 (0)4 84 35 13 13 Soap museum www.Mucem.org Métro 1 : Vieux Port Open every day except Tuesday 25 Quai Rive Neuve (7ème) - May June.11 am to 7 pm - July Tél : + 33 (0)4 96 12 00 91 August 9 am to 8 pm - November Open 7 days a week from to April 11 am to 6 pm - Late night 10 am to 6pm. Friday until 10 pm in Summer. Free entry on the 1st Sunday of the PANIER DISTRICT month. Bookstore and restaurants. Le musée Regards de Provence Préau1 des Accoules / Allées Léon Vaudoyer (2ème) Children’s2 Museum ème Tél : +33 (0)4 96 17 40 40 29,3 montée des Accoules (2 ) www.museeregardsdeprovence.com Tel.4 +33 (0)4 91 91 52 06 Open everyday from 10 am to Opened5 on reservation. 6 pm. except Mondays. Bookstore and panoramic restaurant.

46 EUROMEDITERRANEE / BONNEVEINE DISTRICT JOLIETTE DISTRICT Contemporary Art Museum FRAC PACA (MAC) - Bus : 23, 45 Bus 35 - 49 - 82 69, boulevard de Haïfa (8ème) Metro line 2: Joliette Tel. +33 (0)4 91 25 01 07 Tramway 2 : Euroméditerranée MAMO Marseille Modulor Gantès - 20, boulevard de ème Centre d’art de la Cité Radieuse Dunkerque (2 ) Bus 21 - Only open during Tel : + 33 (0)4 91 91 27 55 - exhibitions from Wednesday to www.fracpaca.org Sunday from 11 am to 6 pm. Open from Tuesday to Saturday ème 10 am to 7 pm. 280, boulevard Michelet (8 ) Sunday, 2 pm to 6 pm. [email protected] (free entry) Decorative arts, fashion and ceramics Museum EUROMEDITERRANEE / Bus 19 - Bus 45 ST CHARLES TRAIN STATION Parc Borély - 134, avenue Clot Bey DISTRICT (8ème) - Tel. +33 (0)4 91 55 33 60 www.marseille.fr La Friche de la Belle de Mai Combined ticket with Botanical Bus 49 – métro 1 et 2 : St Charles Gardens + Mac. Tramway 2: Longchamp 41, rue Jobin (3ème) Tel : + 33 (0)4 95 04 95 95 www.lafriche.org LA ROSE AND CHÂTEAU Open Monday-Saturday 8.30am- GOMBERT DISTRICT midnight and Sunday 8am-9pm. Motorcycle Museum CITY CENTER Bus : 32, 38 - 18, traverse St-Paul, Le ème Musée de la basilique Merlan (13 ) Open 10 am to 5 pm, Notre Dame de la Garde Tuesday to Saturday. Tel. +33 (0)4 91 55 48 43 Bus : 60 Tel : + 33 (0)4 91 13 40 80 Open Tuesday to Sunday from Musée du Terroir Marseillais - 10 am to 5.30 pm and from Espace Pignol April to Septembre from 10 am to Château Gombert 6.30 pm. Bus 5, Château Gombert ème Grobet Labadie Museum 5, place des Héros (13 ) ème Tel. +33 (0)4 91 68 14 38 140 bd Longchamp (4 ) Open Wenesday to Friday 10 am to Metro: Cinq-avenues Longchamp 1 pm/2 to 5 pm; Tramway : 2 Open upon appointment only. Please Currently closed. contact Espace Pignol. Fine Arts Museum - Palais Longchamp Metro line 1: Cinq-avenues LA VALENTINE DISTRICT Longchamp Tramway : 2 Château de la Buzine Tel. +33 (0)4 91 14 59 30 Mediterranean Cinematography Museum d’Histoire Naturelle Museum Bus 50 depuis la place Castellane Palais Longchamp puis de la Valentine bus 51 Metro: Cinq Avenues-Longchamp (except Sunday) Tramway :T2 56, traverse de la Buzine (11ème) Tel. +33 (0)4 91 14 59 50 Tel. +33 (0)4 91 45 27 60 Musée Cantini Open from Tuesday to Sunday from Metro line 1: Préfecture Estrangin 10 am to 6 pm and open 7 days a 19, rue Grignan (6ème) week during peak season. Tel : + 33 (0)4 91 54 77 75

47 for the children

Marseille does not forget its children. With so many gardens and parks in the heart of the city, children can enjoy a romp in the open air all year round! From the Calanques to the beaches, including the public parks, it is easy to find a place to have fun.

FAMILY OUTINGS Information and reservation: www.resamarseille.com The Open Tour, touring Marseille on the top of double decker bus. FOR KIDS The Petit Train to Notre Dame de la Garde or the Panier district. On the Canebière, the Caroussel merry-go-round will delight The City Tour, Visit Marseille by toddlers. open-topped minibus. Borély, Longchamp and Pastré A boat excursion to discover the parks are ideal places for romping Château d’If and shiver in the cells around on the grass, enjoying a of the Iron Mask or the Count of candy floss or riding on a merry- Monte-Cristo. go-round. In Pastré, children will enjoy the Then, for the more adventurous, tree-climbing activities from the a stroll around the Panier district age of 5. with its maze of narrow streets, stopping at the Préau des Numerous theatres programme Accoules, the museum dedicated shows for children all year round. to children. On the Old Port: the Badaboum. In the Longchamp park: the Girafe. The History Museum, the Roman In the Friche de la Belle de Mai: Docks, the Egyptology section of the Massalia. the Vieille Charité museum, the Natural History Museum, Mucem and the MAC are recommended FOR TEENAGERS for families. Free for children under 18. For football fans, a match at the Vélodrome stadium is an obvious During the school holidays, the choice, as well as a trip to the Tourism and Convention Bureau new Vélodrome Stadium hosted proposes some visits to discover by Tourist Information (during Marseille with the children (only half-term). in french). Unless your teenagers prefer to • Hunting the treasure of go ice skating in the new Patinoire 1 (ice rink) de Marseille or skate Marseille 2 around the curves of the Bowl • A guided tour «Street Art 3 4 alongside the beaches, or in the et graffiti» 5 Friche de la Belle de Mai. • Mistery in the Panier They can also explore Marseille on an electric bike, scooter or by They are intended for children segway. aged 6-12 and enable them to Get an adrenalin rush on the Big discover Marseille in a fun and Wheel in l’Escale Borély or on the original way: Old Port. Finally, to end the family’s day out, Don’t forget to buy The City Pass there are numerous restaurants for children (7-15 years) - 24h, in the city centre or at the seaside 48h or 72h: €17, €20 and €23. which offer you children’s menus.

48 MARSEILLE in dates

27,000 years BC: 1 st human Dès 1830: Marseille becomes presence on the Provençal coasts once again a flourishing (Cosquer cave) Mediterranean port. 600 BC: Foundation of Marseille: the Greek sailor Protis falls in love 1848 to 1870: “Gateway of the with the Ligurian princess Gyptis. Orient”, the city expands, a new From their love Massalia is born. trading port is built, monuments and churches. The Paris-Lyon- Marseille railway line arrives 49 BC: Siege of Marseille by in Marseille, the Suez Canal is Caesar: Marseille becomes Roman opened. and is now called Massilia. Remains from this period are on view in the History Museum. 1906 to 1922: Colonial Exhibitions in the Parc Chanot. 416 AD: Foundation of a monastic community by Cassien on the 1943: Destruction of the districts tomb of the martyr Victor. of the Old Port. 1945 destruction of the famous Pont Transbordeur (bridge). 1229: The city rebels against the monastic rule and the bishop is removed. The merchants take 1962: Massive arrival of repatriated power: the Republic of Marseille French settlers from North Africa. is born. The city builds blocks of flats in the north of Marseille. 1262: Charles d’Anjou recaptures Marseille which is attached to the 1995: Creation of the largest Comté de Provence. Construction planning and economic of the Arsenal, for the conquest development projects : of Italy. Euroméditerranée

1423: The sacking of the city by 2001: Marseille Paris in 3 hours the Aragon army (the chain that with the TGV was used to close off the Old Port is taken back as a trophy and 2013: European Capital of Culture exhibited today in the cathedral of Valencia). 2014: «European City of the year Award 2014» from the Royal 1481: Marseille and Provence Urbanisme Academy of London are attached to the Kingdom of France. 2016: Eurofootball 2017: 1660: Louis XIV visits Marseille European Capital of Sport and orders the extension of the city, the construction of a new Circus Arts International Biennial arsenal and two forts. Made a free (BIAC) port by Colbert, the city prospers 2018: and expands. MP 2018, What a Love ! 2019: 1720: Great plague of Marseille. Circus Arts International Half of the population dies. Biennial (BIAC) 2020: 1792: March on Paris of the Manifesta (International Marseille battalion singing “la Biennial of Contemporary Art) Marseillaise” 49