Willmore Wilderness Foundation ... a registered charitable foundation

2018 Annual Newsletter

Photo courtesy of Susan Feddema-Leonard Page 2

Jw Mountain Metis Willmore Wilderness Foundationotipemisiwak - freemen

Long Road Home Long Road Home Centennial Commemoration of Jasper’s Mountain Métis

In 1806 Métis guide Jacco Findlay was the first to blaze a packtrail over Howse Pass and the Continental Divide. He made a map for Canadian explorer David PeopleThompson, & whoPeaks followed one year later. Jacco left the North West Company and People & Peaks became one of the first “Freemen” or “Otipemisiwak” in the Athabasca Valley. Ancestors Calling AncestorsIn 1907 the Canadian Calling Government passed an Order in Council for the creation of the “Jasper Forest Park”—enforcing the evacuation of the Métis in the Athabasca Valley. By Buy DVDs On Line 1909 guns were seized causing the community to surrender its homeland--including Jacco’s descendants. Six Métis families made their exodus after inhabiting the area for a century. This documentary, evicted families, as well as Jacco’s progeny. Stories are shared through the voices of family members as they revealLong their Road struggle Home to preserve traditions and culture as Mountain Métis. Long Road Home: 45:13 min - $20.00 Ancestors Calling focuses on a 14-day return trip by the descendants of the Ancestors Calling Registered Trade Name Willmore Wilderness Foundation Mountain Men People & Peaks Productions Share in the adventures of mountain men who couldn’t see spending their copyright © Willmore Wilderness Foundation In 1804, the North West Company brought voyageurs, proprietors, CollaborativeWillmoreWilderness.com Production with the Mountain | PeopleandPeaks.com lives penned up; and devoted their efforts to being free spirits. The characters interpreters, and clerks into the Rocky Mountain District near the present town

of Jasper, Alberta. A new culture, traditions and way of life was born. The 1872 Jasper House: PA-009129 have strived to be independent souls, travelling the old pack trails in the Canadian www.MountainMetis.com indigenous Shuswap and Beaver Indians intermingled with the new French, Métis Centre Rockies where few have journeyed. They have spent their lives experiencing the Scottish and Iroquois immigrants. The Mountain Métis, a horseback culture sounds and beauty of the earth, immersing themselves in the mountains—their Wildie: 44:14 min - $20.00 Long Road Home emerged from this unique blend of people. Ancestors Calling shares the rich home. These men were enticed by the Rockies because of the rugged wilderness, Mountain Men

culture through music and stories of award-winning musician Laura Vinson, a and horseback culture that nurtured their spirit. Some of these trailhands have Men Mountain Rosie Award Nominee in 2013 by Alberta Filmdescendant & of an earlyTelevision voyageur of the Canadian Fur Trade: Louis Loyer. trekked Alberta’s eastern slopes for over sixty years. This is part six of the 6 X 60’ HD • 44:27 minutres. Canadian Rockies Series. • In partnership with the Facebook.com/WillmoreWilderness MD of Greenview Facebook.com/PeopleandPeaks 45:25 minutes 1872 Jasper House: PA-009149 Vimeo.com/PeopleandPeaks Produced with the assistance of the Government of Alberta Women of Willmore Wilderness: 44:50 min - $20.00Twitter.com/WillmoreTweets Alberta Multimedia Fund Rosie Award Nominee in 2014 by Alberta Film & Television Municipal Sustainability Initiative (MSI) Willmore Wilderness Park Infrastructure Support Facebook.com/WillmoreWilderness

Facebook.com/PeopleandPeaks People & Peaks Productions Vimeo.com/PeopleandPeaks Ancestors Calling: 44:28 min - $20.00 Twitter.com/WillmoreTweets People & Peaks Productions Rosie Award Nominee in 2015 by Alberta Film & Television Mountain Mustang Canadian Rockies Series Mountain Mustang Mountain Mustang

Mountain Mustang: 44:03 min - $20.00 Mountain Mustang Mountain Mustang shares the story of Master Horseman Larry Nelles teach- ta Film Alber ing true horsemanship through feeling: sensitivity, kindness, patience, and a soft & Television Rosie Award Nominee in 2015 by Alberta Film & Television People & Peaks Rosie Awards manner. Nelles has a mystical way of communicating with these four-leggeds. Nominee Women of Willmore Wilderness 2014 Trailmen seek advice from this amazing trainer and bring their free-spirited colts Canadian Rockies Series to turn them into faithful friends. Larry trains three young horsemen between the ages of 11, 13 and 15, who start Mountain Mustangs that were raised in the Alberta Rockies. Larry shares his Mountain Men ... Ways of the Trail: thoughts about the synchronicity of working with the same family that his father Women of Willmore Wilderness had worked with, when he was a Jasper Park Warden in the early 1900s. The boys 45:25 min - $20.00 are the descendants from the Canadian Fur Trade, whose forefathers arrived in the Rocky Mountain district in the early 1800s. • 43:54 minutes Rosie Award Nominee in 2015 by Alberta Film & Television Facebook.com/WillmoreWilderness Facebook.com/PeopleandPeaks - Vimeo.com/PeopleandPeaks Twitter.com/WillmoreTweets People & Peaks Produced with the assistance of Trials & Tribulations of Old Trailmen Alberta Multimedia Fund Women of Willmore Wilderness Following the lead of historic women who challenged the traditions of the day, blaz People & Peaks ing trails into a man’s world on horseback in the Canadian Rockies, modern genera- Women of Willmore Wilderness tions of women face their own challenges to travel these same trails. 46:18 min - $20.00 Canadian Rockies Series VER Women of Willmore Wilderness shares the stories of riding the Rockies thru time. It CO shares the stories of women past and present as they revealProduced how their with experiences the assistance in of mountain culture deeply inspired them. Meet free thinking individuals who blazed NT Alberta Multimedia Development Fund Nominated forO 2 (two) 2014 Alberta Film & Television Rosie Awards trails into a man’s rugged world. Share theta Film humour and deep emotion of these souls R who find the essence of their lives’Alber work on trails rarely travelled. F elevision Women of Willmore Wilderness & T ta Film Rosie Awards Alber Nominated for a 2013 Nominee Facebook.com/WillmoreWilderness & Television Alberta Film & Television Rosie Award 2014 Facebook.com/PeopleandPeaks Go to SHOP at: Rosie Awards Nominee R Vimeo.com/PeopleandPeaks 2013 Nominated for a 2013 Alberta Film & Television Rosie Award VE Twitter.com/WillmoreTweets CO S K PIN C - WillmoreWilderness.com BA E People & Peaks ta Film Alber People & Peaks.com Women of Willmore Wilderness elevision & T Rosie Awards Nominee 2013

Following the lead of historic women who challenged the traditions of the day, blaz ing trails into a man’s world on horseback in the Canadian Rockies, modern genera- AlbertaRockiesAdventures.comtions of women face their own challenges to travel these same trails. Produced with the assistance of _ _ _ _ Women of Willmore Wilderness shares the stories of riding the Rockies thru time. It shares the stories of women past and present as they revealAlberta how Multimedia their experiences Development in Fund SAFETY mountain culture deeply inspired them. Meet free thinking individuals who blazed TEXT

PayPal accepted trails into a man’s rugged world. Share the humour and deep emotion of these souls _____ who find the essence of their lives’ work on trails rarely travelled. Facebook.com/WillmoreWilderness CUT/FOLD _ Facebook.com/PeopleandPeaks _ _ _ Vimeo.com/PeopleandPeaks BLEED Twitter.com/WillmoreTweets ON CATI O Y 0.0.6”6 ODE L B C X 1.21.25”5 B TE BAR WHITE BOBOX PLEASE INDICAUDING A BY INCL

TRAPSHEET February 2018 DVD SIZE: 10.75” x 7.2” Willmore Wilderness Foundation Annual Newsletter Inside This Edition © Willmore Wilderness Foundation President’s Report 3 2017 Trail Clearing Report 18 no portion of this newsletter may be reprinted without written permission. Moccasin Telegraph 6 Back Country Campsite Restoration & Cleanup 21 Registered Charitable Organization Willmore’s Wild Camera 8 #89655 0308 RR0001 2016 Financial Report 24-25 Welcome to the Kohlers 9 Membership Online 26 Report of the Royal North West Mounted Police 10 From Willmore’s Wild Camera 27

Diary of Sergent Harper 14 Book/DVD Sales Online 28

Page 3 Annual Edition - 2018

President’s Report by Bazil Leonard

Time waits for no one and it been completely renovated into a keeps marching on. Change is the Multimedia/Audio Visual Center for constant and we are wise to bend public use. We want to thank our with it. Regretfully this will be the Partner the Municipal District of last newsletter from the Willmore Greenview for supporting Canada’s Wilderness Foundation. Like all 150th. We cost shared a Historical newspapers and magazines, we Photo Exhibit, Film Festival and are moving into the digital realm. Dinner Theatre to promote the We have found the cost of printing History of the Canadian Rockies. This and mailing the newsletter to was held over a week-long period be prohibitive, so in the future, during December in the Willmore a President’s Report and Annual Wilderness Multimedia/Audio Visual Financial Statements will be mailed Centre. with the Annual Membership Renewal Form. We are moving The Newsletter details the work to an expanded social media and accomplished in the 2017 Trail multimedia format of disseminating Clearing Report and the Back Country our stories and educational material Campsite Restoration & Cleanup on the internet and television. I am Report, so I won’t go into that in detail always open to an old-fashioned here. The most important take away Pictured on top: telephone call if anyone wants more is that we are launching a campaign Bazil Leonard and Bill Leonard, detailed information. You can reach to keep Willmore Wilderness Park at the Jackpine Falls. me by calling 1-780-827-2696. clean. If you pack it in—pack it out. We don’t want to become Pictured on Bottom: The good news is that the the Himalayas of the Rockies. The Trail hands in training: Willmore Wilderness Foundation is beautiful Himalaya mountains have Jaely Willow Moberly and sitting in a good financial position. heaps of garbage strewed on the Loren Feddema Our building is paid off, and we have trail networks and base camps. We Photos courtesy of Susan Feddema-Leonard operational funds to offer programs are embarking on a program to KEEP and services. The basement has WILLMORE PRISTINE. Please send ... continued on page 4 Willmore Wilderness Foundation Page 4

President’s Report .. continued from page 3

your garbage stories and pictures to built many cabins in Willmore [email protected] and Wilderness Park and Jasper National Park, during his forty years as a Pictured above: we will post on our social media sites. trapper, guide and outfitter. Art

I would be remiss if I didn’t was a master log-man and used an Left: Tom Wanyandie holding up some mention that we re-roofed Art adze to build his cabin. The walls wild oinoins, that were growing next to Allen’s cabin on the Jackpine River. were flattened on the inside— Art Allen’s trapline cabin. Art started trapping coyotes at his demonstrating the work of a highly homestead near Mt. Robson, British skilled craftsman. The moss roof had Columbia in 1918, as a twelve-year Pictured above right: fallen in, so we decided to preserve old. He continued trapping through Bazil Leonard, Bill Leonard, the structure. Our trail crew packed in the 1920s and, by the winter of 1927, the tin and we put a new roof on the Tom Wanyandie and Martin Hallock. was working with Curly Phillips on his structure, preserving it for another trapline on the Jackpine River. He was generation to enjoy. There is a journal Pictured on right page: from left to right: hired on with a topographical survey of Art’s and other trappers etched on party in 1927, but it didn’t take long the inside wall of the building, which for him to find work as a guide with Left: The oldest face carving. is now preserved. Curly Phillips, Jack Hargreaves, Roy Middle: Tom Wanyandie and Bazil Leonard . Hargreaves and George Hargreaves. There are two campgrounds for Right: Tom Wanyandie , Logan Leonard and He eventually started his own outfit Willmore Wilderness travellers at Bazil Leonard with the old face. and ultimately sold out to Outfitter Boulder Creek. One is on the trail at Leonard Jeck in the 1960s. the creek crossing, with the second Photos by: Susan Feddema-Leonard site about ½ a kilometer away at Me In 1945 Art built a hand-hewn and Charlie Creek. There are several trapline cabin on the banks of the trees at this second site, with faces Jackpine River, approximately five carved on them, adjacent to Coyote kilometers downstream from the Cliff Faulk’s fallen down trapper’s mouth of Pauline Creek. Art Allen cabin. Page 5 Annual Edition - 2018

President’s Report .. continued from page 4 Coyote Cliff Faulk was an old whittling away at some of the newer Newsletter about this expedition called trapper who trapped the Smoky River carvings in the trees, during the long Grave of Jacque Thappe at Deadman and Boulder Creek area in the 1940s winter months that he spent trapping Creek, and Grave of Baby Delorme at and 1950s. His home was in Entrance, that country. It is doubtful that he Little Grave Flats. The crew travelled on Alberta. He used Stan Clark’s boat carved the oldest tree, which looks to Big Grave Flats; then moved again at Clark’s Crossing to traverse the similar to a carving at Camp Parker and made a camp at Zenda Creek. Smoky River. Coyote Cliff ’s first in Jasper National Park (circa 1927). They rode out to Deadman Creek and cabin is just upstream from Clark’s This carving has been cut down and Little Graves, in order to erect the Spirit establishment, as well as a cabin on is preserved in the Jasper Yellowhead Houses and have Elder Tom Wanyandie Me and Charlie Creek. Museum and Archives building. bless the graves.

Coyote Cliff was a slim and fairly The tree with the oldest face was After spending nine days in the tall man. Tom Wanyandie told me a dead and the roots were rotten, and hospital, and having surgery on my story about him. A friend of Coyote was in danger of falling down and leg, I managed to spring myself loose Cliff was crossing the Smoky with a destroying the face. Tom Wanyandie and bargained my way onto the next string of horses and was drowned and I decided to cut the tree down trip. There was no way I was going in the river. Some time after that, and bring the section with the face in to be left behind. We left Kvass Flats Cliff ran into Tom’s older brother, it back to Grande Cache, where it will and made our way to Boulder Creek Daniel Wanyandie and said that he be on display for future generations. Camp. There was a lot of deadfall to could take all of his traps and could clear through the Copenhagen Hill trap his line. He walked out towards The Foundation embarked on burn, and over to Boulder Creek. Entrance and never came back. Tom three extended trail clearing trips, Once we made camp, our crews Wanyandie figured that old Coyote along with some shorter ones, to work spent time cleaning up garbage, Cliff might have seen the ghost of his on the cross-jurisdictional trails with building toilets, corrals, benches and friend, which scared him off. the MD of Greenview. I injured my hitching rails. The crews did the same knee on the first trip out to erect Spirit at Me and Charlie Creek, making Tom Wanyandie didn’t know who Houses, and had to be air lifted out both campsites more comfortable for carved the faces in the trees, but we from Cowlick Creek Camp, so missed suspected that it was old Coyote Cliff, that trip. There are two stories in the ... continued on page 8 Willmore Wilderness Foundation Page 6

The Moccasin Telegraph by Susan Feddema-Leonard Muddy Water Manhunt During the summer of 2016 the Grande Prairie’s incorporation as Willmore Wilderness Foundation a municipality. I contacted the GP restored an unknown baby’s grave Herald and received permission to on the Muddy Water River, placing share the article. 1 a Spirit House on the site. Elder When all was said and done, Tom Wanyandie blessed it with some of the facts in the 2016 Holy Water, and said a prayer. This Newsletter were not accurate, grave was unlike others we had however the seeds of truth led us to seen in Willmore Wilderness Park, a sessional chronicle. Emil Moberly’s as it was built with notched logs, story proved to be the key to help had a large stone placed on top unlock a riveting saga. The Moberlys, of the wood frame, and was the like Asa Hunting and Mildred Shaw, size of a new born infant. The 2016 were new arrivals to the Grande Newsletter featured a story called Cache region a century ago. I Spirit House #2 Location: Muddy previously filmed and interviewed Water River. A short narrative was Emil, grandson of Ewan Moberly who published detailing an account shared, “My grandfather and great- Pictured above: Elder Emil Moberly shared with me. grandfather came from the Hudson Susan Feddema-Leonard at Ptarmigan Lake He imparted a tale about an older Bay Company.2 My grandfather came man from Grande Prairie who had Photo by Bill Leonard; 2017 up here (Grande Cache) dragging abducted a young girl, disappearing a boat, bringing up groceries, and

into the wilderness and ending up made a cache here. He went to see on the Muddy Water River. It was the the people, and traded groceries The Asa Hunting & only description we had that could for fur. My grandfather and my dad be connected to the tiny grave. were kicked out of Jasper in 1910. Mildred Shaw abduction The family stayed at Entrance on this was a scandalous Jaeda Feddema discovered a side (north) of the Athabasca River story of Asa Hunting and Mildred for a couple of winters, but then the newspaper story that Shaw the night before we were to (Alberta) Forestry kicked him out. My mail the newsletters worldwide. She grandfather worked on clearing the dominated Canadian found an account that was published (Moberly) trail in order to move his media headlines from on January 16, 2014 by Bill Scott stuff to Grande Cache. He has been in the Grande Prairie Daily Herald here since 1913.”3 Ottawa Ontario, west Tribune (GP Herald). The article was called The Runaway Lovers of during the Nose Mountain, and was printed 2 Ewan Moberly was the son of the Scot- for the centennial celebration of tish Factor, Henry John Moberly, who ran Jasper last half of 1913 & House from 1859 to 1861. His mother was Suzanne 1 The Muddy Water River has a well- Karakuntie, the daughter of Louis Karakuntie, who first 6-months of 1914 established campsite, close to the confluence of the was one of the original Kahnawake Mohawks who Smoky River, where travellers historically stopped settled in the Athabasca valley in the early 1800s. to repack their dunnage after crossing the Big Smoky. Horses traditionally swam the river during 3 Quote taken from a 2009 interview be- the summer months and travellers would raft the tween Susan Feddema-Leonard and Emil Moberly. waterway. In later years, a boat was packed in and used to cross the dangerous ford. ... continued on page 7 Page 7 Annual Edition - 2018

Mildred Shaw manhunt, travelling ... continued from page 6 250 kilometers one way, for a 500 Ewan built a store at Victor Lake kilometers round trip. I wondered transporting goods from Hinton what the normal time frames used with his packhorse outfit. He was a to be when travelling the Rockies in Freeman, or Otipemisiwak in Cree, the winter months. During his filmed a businessman in today’s world. His interview, Elder Emil Moberly now store was about a 4-hour horseback in his 80s, shared that it would take ride from the Muddy Water River four days to ride from Victor Lake camp. When Emil originally shared to Entrance, near Hinton Alberta. the story, he told me his grandfather His family would often take a pack had reported the couple on the string of horses, three times a year, Muddy Water River to the authorities sometimes in freezing weather. This in Entrance. This is corroborated by was a 150 kilometer journey one way, the Report of Sergeant Harper which for a 300 kilometer round trip. They stated, “He (Ewan) expected the normally travelled each spring, fall and ANNUAL GENERAL MEETING 4 after the New Year festivities. Emil said police out after him (Asa).” May 27, 2018 at 2:00 pm it was a 15-day horseback trip and 400 The Asa Hunting and Mildred kilometers to Lac St. Anne one way; an Smoky River Ranch Shaw abduction was a scandalous 800 kilometer round trip. for good weather or the newspaper story that dominated Willmore Foundation Office Canadian media headlines from Bazil Leonard and I had often Ottawa Ontario west during the last ridden from Victor Lake to the Kakwa if raining. half of 1913 and the first six-months (Porcupine) River, normally a two- Meal to follow the meeting. of 1914. Asa was painted as a villain day ride. Victor Lake to Compton for abducting poor Mildred. This Airstrip is a long one-day ride. It story featured one of the biggest takes another day to trail from the manhunts in NWMP history. It was Compton Airstrip to the confluence as big as the tale of Albert Johnson of Compton Creek and the Kakwa known as the Mad Trapper of Rat River. We have ridden this trail in River, a fugitive whose actions summer and winter. sparked a search in the Northwest Territories and Yukon Canada. The Shauna (Hunting) Rosland event became a media circus as contacted me early in 2017 Johnson eluded the Royal Canadian after our Newsletter was mailed Mounted Police. It ended after a out and posted on the website. 240 kilometer foot chase lasting Shauna shared that she was the more than a month, and a shootout granddaughter of Asa Hunting and which left Johnson fatally wounded Mildred Shaw. I invited Shauna on the Eagle River, Yukon on February and her husband Don Rosland on 17, 1933. All in all it was a forty day a four-day packtrip, as I wanted to manhunt.5 take her to the Muddy Water River gravesite. Shauna was engaged in The NWMP spent a total of extensive research and shared the 77-days on the Asa Hunting and Report of Sergeant Harper and The Asa Willmore Wilderness Foundation Hunting Manhunt documents with 4 Report of Sergeant Harper: Sessional the Willmore Wilderness Foundation, ... mentoring youth Paper No 28, Appendix B. Sergeant S.S. Harper, Lake Saskatoon to Grande Cache, B.C. to Effect an Arrest. which have been published later in in traditional skills. Lake Saskatoon Detachment, January 26, 1914. this Newsletter. 5 Source: https://en.wikipedia.org/ wiki/Albert_Johnson_(criminal) ... continued on page 9 Willmore Wilderness Foundation Page 8

President’s Report .. continued from page 5 future travellers. We trailed over to the burnt timber. Our crew was amazing, five years. Our team of local creatives Jackpine River and set up a cozy camp. laboring long days in the field. A lot are telling our story with class. Our crew cowboy’d up and cleared trail more work needs to be done in some through the burn to Ptarmigan Lake. of the alpine muskegs to mark the Travelling the Willmore with a This was laborious work, which took trail. We were able to place yellow 7-month-old baby and 86-year-old us two days of hard clearing through plastic trail markers on the burnt Tom Wanyandie shows that anybody the burnt timber to the alpine lake. It trees, so that travellers can more who really wants to ride the Rocky was a beautiful sunny afternoon when easily find their way. A lot more work Mountains, can do so. Our elders we finally arrived at the shore with an needs to be done in 2018. continued to teach our young trail amazing reflection of Mount Saurian’s hands the traditions of the Rockies. glacial fed waters. We also cleared interjurisdictional We started four three-year old colts, trails between the MD of Greenview and showed the youth how to pack This was a very special trip for me and Willmore Wilderness Park this and track. They were shown the as I got to travel with my 7-month- fall. In 2018, we will be working more trail system, the lay of the land, and old granddaughter Charlie. She was a on the trail up Mount Stearn, along were shown how to setup a camp, real trooper, riding from the Jackpine Lightning Ridge and down Corydalis and more. I would like to thank River to Kvass Flat during the nine- Creek. We are trying to ensure that our 2017 staff that included: Tom hour return trip. Charlie loved the the trails between Willmore and Wanyandie, Lance Wanyandie (29), horses, but was glad to reach camp Greenview remain open. Some of the Emily Wanyandie, Emily Fehr (20), for a good supper. best Big Horn Sheep hunting takes Martin Hallock (18), Payton Hallock place in the MD of Greenview, so trail (14), Bill Leonard, Gord Leonard, Our third trip took us along the work is necessary for access. Logan Leonard (25), Randi Lester Continental Divide. We rehabilitated (30), Charlie Leonard (7-mo), Ally Lea seven campsites, building more Throughout these expeditions Lamb (18), Chehala Leonard (28), toilets, corrals, benches, hitching our cinematographers were and Susan Feddema-Leonard. We are rails and cleaning up garbage. This out filming three one-hour proud that we are building capacity, created camper friendly stopping documentaries that will be aired on ensuring the skills of our forefathers places along the Great Divide trail. Wild TV, as well as being distributed are being passed on. We cleared from the airstrip to Cote to international networks. People Creek through the Sheep Creek & Peaks Productions have been Happy Trails in 2018 burn, which resulted in a lot of heavy nominated for nine Alberta Film and chainsaw work through the dried Television Rosie Awards over the past Bazil Leonard Page 9 Annual Edition - 2018

Pictured left: from left to right: Bazil Leonard Don and Shauna Rosland. Shauna is the granddaughter of Asa Hunting and Mildred Shaw. Shauna Rosland believes that they had a total of eleven children, counting the infant on the Muddy Water River.

Pictured on Left Page: Left: Randi Lea Lester & daughter Charlie at 7 months at Vivien Lake, named after Charlie’s great grandmother.

Right: Tom Wanyandie - 86 years young

... continued from page 6 Shauna and Don arrived in Mildred a clay stove to cook on; and River; and the North West Mounted Grande Cache on a beautiful the NWMP diary noted that Mildred Police (NWMP) did not leave in search September day. Don was determined was cooking dinner in her wickiup of Mildred Shaw until November 6, to make the four hour ride to the when they found her. The couple 1913. It is perplexing why the NWMP Muddy Water River gravesite despite lived in a comfortable stick tipi, and waited until winter to pursue Asa. the fact that he was recuperating Mildred was dressed nicely, as can from a knee injury. We rode to Kvass be seen from the photo. The pair There is no proof that the Baby Flats the first day, and stayed in a had made their home on the Muddy Grave on the Muddy Water River comfortable base camp, travelling to Water River, close to the confluence is that of Asa and Mildred in 1913, the Muddy Water River the following of the Smoky River, sometime however the coincidences are day. It was a warm fall afternoon and between July 2013 when they left remarkable. Asa Hunting and Mildred the fall colours were magnificent. We Red Willow Creek, and December 23, Shaw had ten children after their crossed the Muddy on horseback and 1913 when they were arrested. marriage. Shauna Rosland believes headed to the grave. that they had a total of eleven I remembered that Caroline children, counting the infant on the Shauna and Don Roseland Hinman had images of her 1915 Muddy Water River. Asa and Mildred were deeply moved when they journey with Mary Jobe and Curly have many grandchildren and great dismounted and observed the Phillips when they travelled from grandchildren, who are a testament infant’s burial site. Shauna, filled with Mt. Robson to Mt Sir Alexander. to their union. emotions, stated, “This is a grave of Caroline Hinman had photographed my uncle or aunt.” Bazil and I left the a wickiup on the Muddy Water The Willmore Wilderness couple alone and hiked to the bank River; as well as a photo of a cache, Foundation will continue to research of the Muddy Water River to see the a corral and a wall tent frame. The and share stories. We can see that spectacular view of Turret Ridge. photo was taken eighteen-months there was a lot of activity in the Grande after Asa and Mildred were arrested. Cache area and Smoky Valley in the Asa Hunting and Mildred Shaw 1800 and 1900s from many ethnicities. arrived in the Smoky Valley in 1913, Caroline’s images painted a picture of the same year as some of the families a standard winter camp. The following pages detail relocated to the Grande Cache area It is of interest to note that the the Report of Sergeant Harper, The after being evicted from Jasper. abduction of Mildred Shaw took Asa Hunting Manhunt and other Shauna told me that Asa had built place in July 1913 at Red Willow interesting documents. Willmore Wilderness Foundation Page 10

Report of the Royal North West Mounted Police:

One of the strangest cases in planned to hunt along the way. Since Hunting’s hay camp and return by the annals of the Royal North West forage would be difficult, 500 pounds no later than December 12. Charlie Mounted Police began on October of oats were added. Joachim promised to keep an eye on 3, 1913 with a short telegram from the cache and the three horses they Supt. A.E.C. McDonell, Athabasca, Leaving the detachment on the left behind. Alberta to Staff Sergeant C.S. morning of Tuesday, November 4, Harper in charge of Lake Saskatoon they headed to Beaverlodge. The After resting for a day at Nose detachment near Grande Prairie. It mishaps, and problems that were to Creek, the three men began the climb advises him that a man known as Asa plague their trip started almost at of Nose Mountain. “It took us from the th st Hunting had been seen in Porcupine once when a pack horse went lame 13 to the 21 of November to make (Kakwa) country that lay in the semi- through stepping on a nail. They the top of Nose Mountain,” Harper mountainous area between Grande reached the Shaw homestead two reported. “We had a cold spell and Cache and the northern boundary of day later and spent the night there. heavy snow which obliterated the trail Jasper National Park. It ordered him From the Shaws they obtained a and made the rustling for the horses to apprehend the said Asa Hunting. description of the missing girl and bad. We had to feed a lot of our oats also the disturbing news that she was during this time.” In places, the snow Sgt. Harper was keenly aware wearing only light, summer clothing was three feet deep. With no trails, of Asa Hunting. In July of that year when she was abducted. they had to follow the creek, crossing information had been laid before it no less than 18 times. At one point a him that Hunting had kidnapped From the Shaw homestead they pack horse slipped and rolled 50 feet Mildred Shaw, 15-year-old daughter struck south, crossing Red Willow down a cliff before a tree stopped its of a homesteader near Beaverlodge, River with difficulty as it was not plunge. It took hours to get it back to 24 miles to the west. A warrant had completely frozen over, and struck the trail and then it had to be retired been issued for Hunting’s arrest for the Wapiti River. On the way, one and one of the saddle horses pressed but before it could be served the of the pack horses went through the into service as a packer. mountain man had disappeared into ice severely injuring itself. By the end the rugged foothills, taking the girl of the first week, they had covered 77 By the end of the second week, with him. miles through muskeg and snow- they had travelled approximately 120 swathed creek banks. miles from Lake Saskatoon in this zig Knowing the cruel and zag fashion. treacherous nature of the Porcupine Tuesday, November 11, they country, Sgt. Harper made his pressed on in the face of a blizzard to Once on top of Nose Mountain, they preparations carefully. He consulted reach the banks of Nose Mountain, struck the old Jasper Trail which had a local hunter and guide, Richard 2,500 free high. There they met two been blazed and they made better time Harrington, and learned that Hunting trappers who were seeking shelter, despite blizzards and waist-deep snow. had two hay camps in the district Charlie Joachim and Francis Mosier. After following the ridge, or escarpment where he raised horses and that, From them they learned that the of the mountain, they dropped down with good luck, the round trip to the country ahead was even more into Porcupine Country on November 25, camps could be made in six weeks, difficult, with no trails, little game three weeks out from the detachment. Harrington agreed to show him the and scant picking for animals. By then they had used the last of their location of the camps. oats and were running short of food for Sgt. Harper decided to make themselves. Fortunately, the snow was Sgt. Harper got together an outfit a cache at the Creek and to press light in the valley and they rested two comprised of himself, Harrington and on with only six horses and days while their horses and pack animals Constable F. Stevenson; three saddle reduced rations for himself and his recuperated. horses and six pack animals and companions. By travelling light, he hoped to cover the distance to sufficient food for a month. It was ... continued on page 11 Page 11

Photo courtesy of the Glenbow Museum Image No: PA-331-1

From Left to Right: Asa Hunting Guide Richard Harrington Mildred Shaw- Constable F. Stevenson - Sgt CS Harper

Photo taken in Grande Cache December 1913 Grande Mountain in background.

... continued from page 10 Having reached the Porcupine Establishing a temporary base Porcupine flats and hit into the Smoky Country, the quest for Asa Hunting and camp on Sheep Creek,2 Harper and River over the Jasper Trail, which went his victim began in earnest. Several Harrington pushed ahead to the over Porcupine Mountain as I felt forays to search for tracks turned up second of Hunting’s hay camps. They convinced that Hunting was in the nothing and on Friday, November 28, found white man’s tracks, but these country somewhere and that he could they scouted the first of Hunting’s hay were at least a month old. Bad luck not take the girl out of it once he had camps on Sheep Creek.1 There was still dogged them. On December got her in, owing to the difficult travel.” 4, their horses bolted and returned ample hay, but no fresh tracks in the Back at base camp beside to base camp, forcing them to walk vicinity. The next day, they moved their Hunting’ hay stacks, their food ran back. The next day, one of the horses camp to the hay stacks and allowed the out and only a supply of moose slipped over a river bank and was animals to feast. meat from one of Delorme’s caches killed. The two men loaded the sustained them. Owing to the deep That night, Richard Harrington saddle horses and proceeded on foot. located some fresh tracks and on snow, hunting had been extremely following them came upon a group They reached the second hay poor. For the next five days, they of Indians returning from a hunt. camp on December 6 but found that lived on dried moose meat and tea. They had not seen Asa Hunting for it had been burned out. There were Said Harper: “The more you boil it, two months, but had seen his tracks. no fresh tracks. the harder it seems to get.” Harrington brought them into camp. With food running dangerously Travelling towards Smoky River, One of them, Phillip Delorme, low, Harper had to make a decision. they met a band of Indians on their agreed for a stiff price to guide Grande Cache lay 40 miles away over way to Grande Cache to trade. They Sgt. Harper to the spot where the mountainous terrain. “Phillip Delorme purchased some flour and sugar mountain man’s tracks had been told us that it was impossible to go from them. These said that they had seen but all the others flatly refused that way with the horses as the snow seen Hunting and the girl about two to assist, citing bad weather. Harper was too deep over the mountains and, months before but know nothing of suspected that it was fear of Hunting on Harrington’s advice, I decided to their present whereabouts. that deterred them. follow our old tracks back again to the 1 It is most likely that the Hay Camps 2 Harper has obviously mistaken were located on the Kakwa River, Sheep Creek for the Kakwa River. ... continued on page 12 Willmore Wilderness Foundation Page 12

... continued from page 11 and rifle there. Alarmed, the decided just another trapper, but when to carry the information to Grande he informed her that he was a On Sunday December 14, having Prairie, but owing to the heavy policeman: “She starting screaming reached the Smoky River, Harper left snows did not reach that settlement for Hunting. I picked her up and took Constable Stevenson at the Indian until Christmas Day. Word was sent her into the bush as I thought Hunting camp with the horses and pushed from there to Superintendent A.E.C. would come up on the run.” forward on foot with Harrington to McDonell at Athabasca that the Leaving the girl in the care of reach Grande Cache. They travelled Harper party was long overdue and Harrington and Delorme, Harper with some of the band who were feared lost. returned to the teepee to await the going to the post and under ideal arrival of his quarry. The arrest itself conditions, they covered the 30 miles Superintendent McDonell at once a few minutes later was effected to the settlement and reached it at organized a strong and well-equipped without any difficulty. Asa Hunting 11:30 that evening. rescue party made up of Corporal F.S. Pearson, Constable H. Peters, willingly surrendered his rifle and was Grande Cache consisted of a Constable T.W. Tendrup and Constable given the customary warning. His trading store operated by Ewan F. Anderson. Leaving Athabasca on only concern was for the safety of Moberly. It was he who had notified December 27, they arrived in Grande the girl. the authorities that Hunting was Prairie on January 5, 1914. Harper had hoped to return to in the area. The rest of the town was Grande Cache that evening, but an made of six or seven Indian cabins Meanwhile, Harper had spent unexpected blizzard swept down nestled in the firs. The whole was several days in the vicinity of Grande upon the area and they sought the set in a mountainous area where Cache trying to determine which way shelter of the trapper’s cabin until it access and departure were difficult Asa Hunting and the girl had gone, had passed. The next day, Christmas even in the summer. He learned from but “owing to the absence of snow Eve, they returned to the (Victor Moberly that Asa Hunting and the could not see any tracks.” He talked to Lake) settlement. girl had been there only three days Indians and the odd trapper and came to the conclusion that he must be at previous. Moberly had deliberately The nearest telegraph office the Muddy (Water) River “as it was the given them scant supplies so they was at Hinton, which was about only part of the country where someone would have to return. The pair were 10-days hard travel through the had not visited.” He also formed the expected back within ten days. mountains, but on the chance that impression that the mountain man some Indians might be going in that Of interest to Sgt. Harper was was of a volatile nature and that the direction, he wrote a telegram to the the news that Mildred Shaw seemed natives—even Ewan Moberly—were Commissioner to bring officialdom quite happy to be in the company of afraid to cross him. up to date on his status. Then he the mountain man. The following morning, Delorme sat down to a Christmas dinner Sending a runner to the Indian scouted ahead and returned with of “rabbit, with rice pudding and camp with instructions to have the news that he had spotted camp slapjacks, tea.” Constable Stephenson bring the smoke about a mile away. Going Harper learned from Hunting horses to Grande Cache, Sgt. Harper ahead alone, Harper found the spot. and Shaw that trapping had been took a welcome rest from the hazards “I crossed the Muddy River and, going extremely bad in the Muddy River of the trail. into a bunch of spruce, came onto district and that the couple had a teepee made of poles and spruce subsisted mainly on rabbits caught Elsewhere, a tense drama was boughs. I went inside and saw the girl in snares. He was assured by both developing. Harper had left his main Mildred Shaw cooking some food. I Mildred and her “husband” that cache of food and supplies at Nose asked here where Hunting was and she there had been no kidnapping in the Creek, anticipating an early return. said he was out visiting some trap and forcible sense of the word and that On December 15, trappers Charlie would be back soon.” Joachim and Francis Mosier checked she had come willingly. the cache and found it intact. More Mildred Shaw was under disturbing, they found a shotgun the impression that Harper was ... continued on page 13 Page 13 Annual Edition - 2018

Photo taken by Caroline Hinman in August 1915. Asa Hunting’s cache, wall tent frame and corral.

Photo courtesy of Whyte Museum of the Canadian Rockies. v282-pg 70.1 Story is published in Women of Willmore Wilderness

... continued from page 12 On Monday, December 29, blizzard and cold. Story based on: unaware that the rescue party under Canada, Sessional Papers Corporal Pearson was hurrying south, What kept them on track? In Harper visited the Hunting camp and this report, Charles Harper said: “I Report of the Royal North West picked up horses and supplies. Then looked on it as a matter of life and Mounted Police: Pages 201 to 207 death to catch Hunting before the cold he started for Lake Saskatoon with Sgt. C.C. Harper his prisoner and “the bride.” weather struck us as the people I met said that they had very little food and Sergeant Charles Harper was By travelling on the now-frozen were poorly clad, which was true, and born in 1881 and came to Canada rivers, they made excellent time, the opinion of Constable Stevenson, at the age of 19. After enlisting in averaging 15 – 20 miles a day with Harrington and myself is that they the NWMP at Maple Creek, he rose the girl riding. Even then, it was not would have frozen to death if we had through the ranks and became until January 12 that they reached not gone for them.” Corporal in 1904 and Sergeant in the cache of food and supplies left 1909. In 1913 he was posted to at Nose Creek. They arrived there in As for the charges against Asa Hunting, he was brought before a Lake Saskatoon, then a thriving the evening and were met by a relief community at the foot of the Lake. It party under Constable Cornelius magistrate and committed to stand trial. The case heard before Mr. Justice no longer exists. Following the Asa which had found the cache only Hunting patrol, he was promoted to ten minutes earlier. From him they Simmons at Grouard on July 14, 1914. His Lordship showed a good deal Staff Sergeant. After overseas service learned that Harper’s telegram had in 1914-1918, he rejoined the NWMP reached the Commissioner and that of compassion and understanding and while he entered a conviction and served until his death of diabetes the wide-spread search for them had mellitus at Whitehorse Yukon, on been called off. against Hunting, he suspended the sentence. Asa Hunting and Mildred December 11, 1922. A week later, January 20, the Shaw were married on July 30, 1914. weary little cavalcade reached Lake After putting together an adequate Saskatoon. Harper, Stevenson, and outfit, they disappeared back into the Harrington had been 77 days on the wilderness of the Porcupine (Kakwa trail, travelling through some of the River) Country. worst terrain in central Alberta and under extreme duress from snow, Willmore Wilderness Foundation Page 14 Diary of Sergent Harper

Report of Sergeant Harper which I used as a pack animal. and rolled down about 50 feet until caught by a tree, hurting itself so that We packed 500 pounds of oats Sessional Paper No 28: Appendix B we changed off with a saddle horse with us, as Harrington stated that and walked. Another pack horse’s Sergeant S.S. Harper, Lake there were some camps we should front cinch broke and the horse Saskatoon to Grande Cache, B.C. have to tie up and feed, there being bucked itself clear, without hurting to Effect an Arrest. Lake Saskatoon no feed in that vicinity. Detachment, January 26, 1914. itself by good luck. At the time I did On the 6th of November, we not think that we could have got the To The Officer Commanding crossed Red Willow River, and on horse up. of the Royal North West Mounted the 8th crossed the Wapiti River. On top of the mountain we hit (RNWM) Police, Athabasca These rivers had not frozen over, the old Jasper Trail, which is a blazed and the ice in the middle and sides Re: Patrol to Arrest Asa Hunting trail. Snow here was waist deep in made crossing difficult. On the 11th Wanted for Abduction. places and we followed along the of November we made Nose Creek edge of the mountain for 50 miles and met two half-breed trappers Sir, I have the honour to report on until we dropped into the Porcupine st camped there. Charlie Joachim and precept of your telegram dated 31 (Kakwa) River Valley on 25th of Francis Mosier. Here I found our trail October authorizing me to proceed November. We fed the last of our oats lay for about 40 miles along the bed after Hunting. on the mountain, as there was very of Nose Creek until we went up Nose little rustling for the horses. I hired Richard Harington as Mountain, and the creek which is a guide and packer at $5 per diem, big one had to be crossed frequently There was good feed on the who stated that he knew where enroute. I decided to make a cache Porcupine (Kakwa) Valley, and we Hunting’s hay camps were, and six of the bulk of our provisions and had to lay over two days and rest the pack horses at $1 per diem. The hire leaving three pack horses as a relay horses, who were nearly all in. of these horses covered insurance as for our return with Charlie Joachim to death or accident. to look after, I took three packhorses We decided to push on to Hunting’s and three saddle horses and pushed I took with me a month’s field hay camp (Kakwa River), which we on light. In this way we could lead a nd rations purchased at the Peace River made on the 2 of December. We horse apiece and if it came down to Trading and Land Company; this I found 3 tons of hay in a corral, but a fine point we could use the saddle reckoned would last me six weeks or there were no signs of recent tracks. horse as a pack, and walk. two months at a stretch. We fed our horses on this hay and that night. A bunch of Indians and half It took us from the 13th to the 31st Harrington assured me that if we breeds who had been trapping in the of November to make the top of Nose found Hunting at his hay camp we vicinity of Two Lakes told me that they Mountain, about 40 miles from our would get back in six weeks at the had not seen Hunting for two months, cache at Nose Creek, from the 15th latest. I decide to take Reg. No. 5591 but they had seen his tracks. to the 18th we had a cold spell with Constable Stevenson with me, as a heavy snow, which obliterated the man was necessary to assist guarding I hired Phillip Delorme and horse at trail and made the rustling for horses prisoner when caught. $5 per day to come with us and show bad. We had to feed a lot of our oats us these tracks. None of the other men On the 4th of November, during this time. would come for any money. Constable Stevenson, R. Harrington The ascent of Nose Mountain, th and myself left Lake Saskatoon On the 6 instance we saw the which is about 2500 feet high, is very with the pack train and three police tracks which were made by a white steep and difficult owing to snow, horses; Registered No 612, No 25 and man but about a month old. especially the last 500 feet. One mare Registered No. 69, the latter of of the pack horses lost its footing ... continued on page 15 Page 15 Annual Edition - 2018

“Moberly brings his supplies by pack train from Hinton; about a dozen shacks belong- ing to Indians and his store comprise Grande Cache.”

Ewan Moberly’s store (lt) at Victor Lake. Ewan’s home is center, with the wagon used to move his family to Grande Cache.

Courtesy Whyte Museum of the Canadian Rockies v282-pg-74 Grande Cache 1915 Photo by Caroline Hinman. Story is published in Women of Willmore Wilderness. ... continued from page 14 On the same day we got a cache of dried moose meat on the Constable Stevenson behind with the to Hunting’s second hay camp Porcupine. I sent him on to get it horses at one of the Indian tepees. (Compton Creek) and found he had and he returned with a sack full. This evidently got burnt out, as there was is what we lived on until the 12th of We made Grande Cache that only the charred remains and no December. The more you boiled it the night at almost 11 pm, having to recent sign of tracks at all. harder it seemed to get. On the 11th of cross the Smoky River on foot three December we climbed the Porcupine times. The water took us about the The trail led over the mountains Mountain and made the Big Smoky waist and then froze our clothes, and to Grande Cache and Phillip Delorme River on the night of the 12 instance. we were all in when we got there. told us that it was impassible to go that way with the horses as the snow There is an Indian encampment Grande Cache is a trading store was too deep over the mountains here in the Smoky River Valley and kept by a half breed by the name of and, on Harrington’s advice, I decided good feed for horses and no snow. Ewan Moberly. It is in the main range to follow our old tracks back again of the Rockies, and is difficult to get to. to the Porcupine Flat and hit into I found these Indian particular out of grub, except Lynx and rabbits. Moberly brings his supplies the Smoky River over the Jasper by pack train from Hinton; about a Trail, which went over Porcupine They let us have 20 pounds of flour and some sugar, which was all they dozen shacks belonging to Indians Mountain, as I felt convinced and his store comprise Grande Cache. that Hunting was in the country had, but informed us that Ewan somewhere, and he could not take a Moberly at Grande Cache, some 30 To my delight I found that girl out of it once he had got her in, miles farther had lots. They had all Hunting had been there three-days owing to the difficulty of travel. seen Hunting and the girl about two before to purchase food but none of month before, but did not know the people around here knew which th On the 4 of December we lost where they had gone. way he went. Hunting told Moberly a pack horse that tumbled off a cut As our horses were all in, I that he would come back again in ten bank into the mountains. We packed days’ time to get more food. our saddle horses and walked. decided to leave them on this good th feed and on the 14 of December, This is the first definite news we th On the 6 of December we ran Harrington and myself, accompanied had of Hunting being in the country out of all food except tea and sugar, a party of Indians who were going and was encouraging, after being so and Phillip Delorme told us he had to Grande Cache to trade fur. I left ... continued on page 16 Willmore Wilderness Foundation Page 16 Harrington and I ran down and hid horses would pull through, but we ... continued from page 15 in the spruce wood and, when he had to go on as our own food was long away. I bought $43.75 worth came opposite, I shouted to him to limited. Our little wedge tent was no of provisions for our return trip (all throw his hands up. Hunting offered good on our return trip, as it would Moberly could spare) and had to no resistance and made no remarks only hold three, and was too cold. hire two horses and men to take beyond asking where the girl was. We camped in the open, making it back to the Smoky Flats, where windbreaks of the tent and Hunting’s our horses were. The trail between I warned him in the correct canvas and spruce boughs, the girl Grande Cache and these flats is very manner and took his gun, a 38-55 having one for herself. One of us had dangerous and slippery; and I had to Winchester away from him. to keep awake all night to keep the pay $35 for their services. I sent word We reached Grande Cache on fires going and to watch Hunting to Constable Stevenson to come on Christmas Eve, and lay over Christmas and the horses, which were given to to Grande Cache. He arrived on the day, during which I wrote a telegram straying long distances from camp in 20th of December, and on the 21st.. I to the officer commanding on chance search for food. It was very cold on hired Phillip Delorme, who knew the that some Indians would leave for top of Nose Mountain, as a high wind country thoroughly; and with him th Hinton, which was about ten days’ blew there all the time. On the 8 and Harrington I started out on foot travel from Grande Cache. we dropped down on to Nose Creek, for the Muddy (Water) River, where where forage was more plentiful. It Hunting was supposed to be. I gave two orders on the took us four days to make our cache Hudson’s Bay Company at Edmonton, from the foot of the mountain. We I left Constable Stevenson at one in favour of Ewan Moberly and again ran short of food, having only Grande Cache to guard that place if the other to Phillip Delorme, as I dead lynx, which we caught in a Hunting should come there while I had no money with me. I enclose snare, tea and two cupful’s of tapioca was away. these two bills, in detail, under per diem; this for three days before On the 22nd Delorme, who had separate cover. We returned to we reached the cache, which we climbed a hill on the one side of us, Hunting’s camp, where he had two reached the night of the 12th. Here returned with word he saw smoke of a horses running and took these with we met Constables Cornelius, and camp fire about one mile ahead. I told blankets, kit, etc., and returned over Gordon and Patrick Woneada, who Harrington and Delorme to stay and our old trail to the Smoky River Flats, brought out relief supply of food and to come up if I called. I walked on and where we left our horses, which medicine. They arrived at the cache crossed the Muddy River and, going place we reached on the 29th. We just a few minutes before we did. into a bunch of spruce, came onto only found about 10 pounds of flour, I had sufficient food cached here a teepee made of poles and spruce 2 pounds of corn meal and a little to have taken us to the settlement, boughs. I went inside and saw the girl sugar at Hunting’s camp; what they but the new supplies were very Mildred Shaw cooking some food. I lived on principally was rabbits which welcome, especially the oats, Bovril asked here where Hunting was, and the girl caught in snares. Hunting had (an energy drink), and medicine, as she said he was out visiting some traps been unable to catch any fur, and we Hunting had frozen both feet slightly and would be back soon. She thought found none with him. After paying and we all had pretty bad colds. The I was a trapper but when I told her I back to the Indians on the Smoky relief horses also were in good shape was a policeman who had come to the grub we had borrowed when and, with the two horses that were take her back she started screaming we first struck there, we climbed left as the relay at the cache (one had for Hunting. I picked her up and took Porcupine Mountain on our return died during our absence) we were her into the bush as I thought Hunting trip, leaving on the first of January, able to let our horses travel the rest would come up on the run. 1914, and reached the Porcupine (Kakwa) River on the 3rd. Here we of the way with empty saddles. We I left her with Delorme, and stayed two days to rest the horses reached Beaverlodge settlement th Harrington and myself ran on to before we climbed Nose Mountain. on the 18 , and returned to Lake th the side of the mountain to see if We found our old tracks covered Saskatoon on the 20 , when I sent a we could see him coming. We saw in with snow. We had no oats, and telegram to you. him coming along the big Smoky feed was scarce; what there was of it River with his gun under his arm. was frozen. None of us thought the ... continued on page 17 Page 17

... continued from page 16

GENERAL REMARKS

The police horses I took with me all returned, but two of Harrington’s pack horses died during the trip. The terms of my agreement with him was that he would take all risks for a $1 per day per head. I should like to note the loyal support given me by Constable Stevenson and Harrington. As there were many times on the trip when things looked black. The health of the party was good and the exceptional weather was the only thing that saved the horses. Ewan Moberly told me he had been frightened to refuse Hunting food, as he thought he might shoot some of his, Moberly’s horses, but he only gave him a small quantity at a time, not sufficient to take him out of the country, as he expected the police out after him. He expressed himself as glad that he was caught as the Indians regarded Hunting as a menace to the community, and were all afraid to trap in the direction which he was supposed to have gone. I was very sorry for all the anxiety I have put everybody to, owing to our continued absence, but I could not send word before I did, and it was no good coming back while the man was in the country; another thing. I looked on it as a matter of life and death to catch Hunting before the cold weather “I walked on and crossed the Muddy River struck us as the people I met stated and, going into a bunch of spruce, came onto a that they had very little food and were poorly clad, which was true, and the teepee made of poles and spruce boughs. I went opinion of Constables Stevenson, Harrington and myself is that they inside and saw the girl Mildred Shaw would have frozen to death if we had cooking some food.” not gone. I attach a tracing of a map of that distance, showing our trail, which will supplement this report. I was Photo taken by Caroline Hinman in August 1915. fortunate in obtaining this map before I Mary Jobe standing in a wickiup - v282-pg 70.1 started out. It is drawn to scale and was Photo courtesy of Whyte Museum of the Canadian Rockies. made by the Government surveyors. I Story is published in Women of Willmore Wilderness also attach a copy of the diary. In 1915 Caroline Hinman’s packtrip ran into an unknown wikiup on Certified Correct the Muddy Water River. It was later realized that it was Asa Hunting and C.S. Harper Sergeant Mildred Shaw’s 1913-1914 winter camp In Command of the Patrol Willmore Wilderness Foundation Page 18

2017 Trail Clearing Report Two Camp Corral

Many people don’t realize 12 Days: Cowlick Creek to Deadman 19 Days along the Continental Divide the distances that the Willmore Creek Wilderness Trail crews need to ride on We worked on the trail from Sulphur horseback, packing chainsaws, brush We cleared from Big Grave Flats to Gates Staging area to the upper saws, axes and gas. Then there is the Monaghan Creek. This clearing kept Sheep Creek, down the Continental long ride back to camp on a trusty the main artery between Grande Divide and around Mt. deVeber, to steed. Trail crews have to deal with Cache and Rock Lake open. The trail the Jackpine River and back to Bazil nature and unforgiving weather…and turns into a CAT trail at Deadman Creek. We also worked on spur trails as can you always hope your horses don’t Creek and is open all the way to Rock be seen on the map. Heavy cutting took stray too far by morning. You want an Lake. We did a rough cut restoration place through the 2007 Sheep Creek early start in order to clear that extra up Whistler Creek to Whistler Lake, burn again this year. Heavy winds mile, allowing you to see more pristine which was a spur trail. and massive blowdown made the vistas. No matter how hard crews trail restoration slow to Ptarmigan work, the restoration is never finished. 18 Days: Sulphur Gates Staging Area Lake. We blazed the trail with yellow It is a labour of love for the people to the Jackpine River plastic markers. More restoration who support the Willmore Wilderness Heavy cutting took place through work will be needed in 2018. Foundation, and have a passion for the 2002 Smoky River burn again Willmore Wilderness Park. this year. Heavy winds and massive There is a section of muskeg trail at blowdown made the trail clearing the summit of the Muddy Water River The Willmore Wilderness slow. We blazed the trail with yellow and Bazil Creek that needs work. The Foundation spent the following days plastic markers. More restoration trail along upper Bazil Creek needs to clearing trail work will be needed in 2018. be cut out and restored. This will need to take place in 2018. 4 Days: Davey Creek and Mt. Stearn Heavy cutting took place through the 2007 Jackpine River burn this year. Copper Kettle Camp is named after Heavy blowdown during the winter Heavy winds and massive blowdown the Hudson Bay copper kettle lid that of 2016-2017 saw a lot of trees across made the trail restoration slow to Carolyn Hinman found on her 1915 this trail. Ptarmigan Lake this year. We blazed the trip with Curly Phillips.1 trail with yellow plastic markers. More restoration work will be needed in 2018. Pictured above: from left to right Logan Leonard, Randi Lester, 1 Section One: Page 26 Martin Hallock, Tom Wanyandie, Bill Leonard and Bazil Leoanrd. Women of Willmore Wilderness Park New corral at Boulder Creek. by Susan Feddema-Leonard Page 19 Annual Edition - 2018

Boulder Creek Camp

This camp is on the ledge above 8 Days restoring trails up Davey Sheep Creek on the trail before you Creek to Lightning Ridge. go up Surprise pass. We cleared the triangle from Copper Kettle Camp We returned to clear the trail up and over located in the upper Sheep Creek Davey Creek to Sheep Creek. We cut trail Valley, up and over Casket’s east to Lightning Ridge but were hampered shoulder. We turned east and cut by snow and bad weather. We will have trail downstream on Casket Creek to finish this project in 2018. to George Hargreaves grave at the confluence of Casket Creek and Trail crews were out for a total Sheep Creek. The crew headed back of 61-days. Tom Wanyandie, an upstream on Sheep Creek to Copper 86-year-old Elder and Bazil Leonard Kettle Camp. mentored four young men in the traditional skills of the Rockies. Three We cleared a spur trail up Surprise young women were also mentored Pass. Surprise Pass is named after in outdoor cooking skills, mountain Surprise Lake (now Cecelia Lake) horsemanship and trail life. The Willmore Wilderness Foundation that Caroline Hinman named on her Trail Clearing in the Sheep Creek Burn 1915 journey from Mt. Robson to Mt. is focused on building capacity Sir Alexander.2 The trail had heavy for future generations. A People & spruce second growth that made Peaks Production film crew were the trail barely visible. We did some fortunate to shoot three one-hour cutting and restoration work but documentaries that will be aired on were hampered by heavy winds and Wild TV. The shows are called Spirits bad weather. We will need to return of the Rockies, Ghosts of the Jackpine and work on the spur trail in 2018. River and Through the Mists of Time. We are using the footage to promote awareness of the traditions, culture and history of the Rocky Mountain region. Footage shot this summer will be used in social media, multimedia 2 Section One: Page 26 Women of Willmore Wilderness Park and tourism marketing initiatives. by Susan Feddema-Leonard Sheep Creek Corral Willmore Wilderness Foundation Page 20

Copper Kettle Camp

Sheep Creek Camp

Morkill Camp Corral

Copper Kettle Camp

Me & Charlie Creek Camp

Jackpine River Camp Muddy Water River Camp Page 21 Annual Edition - 2018 Back Country Campsite Restoration & Cleanup

Willmore Wilderness Foundation Crews have worked on seven back country campsites in 2016 and 2017. Crews have cleaned a massive amount of garbage out of these camps. We burnt a ruined zodiac raft, harness, bed rolls, tents, plastic tarps, blow up mattresses, and more. We packed out packhorse loads of gas cans, oil containers, propane bottles, liquor bottles, metal stoves, metal frames and more. We piled up metal trash this year on random sites on the Smoky River, and will continue to pack out this garbage in 2018. Trail clearing crews cleared encroaching brush around various sites and cleaned up downed timber.

We have made benches, installed toilets, made corrals, installed hitching rails and built or restored fire rings on the backcountry campsites. Susan Feddema-Leonard personally filmed, photographed and GPS’d these activities during both years. She shot and filmed “before” and “after” pictures of each campsite.

A map of the seven main sites we worked on has been posted above. Access begins at the Sulphur Gates Trail head near Grande Cache and traverses around Mt. deVeber, to the Continental Divide Trail, then to the Jackpine River, forming a loop back to Grande Cache. The Great Divide Trail traverses the Continental Divide between Alberta and British Columbia, wandering through the vast wilderness of the Canadian Rocky Mountains for more than 1200 kilometres. It is one of the most spectacular and challenging long‐distance trails on the planet. The trail crew also travelled from Cowlick Creek, up and over Hayden Ridge. We went upstream on the Sulphur River and camped at Zenda Creek. The trail crew continued upstream to Deadman Creek. This was about 80 kilometers one way, with a 160 kilometer return trip. Willmore Wilderness Foundation Page 22

2017 Spirit House Project

Grave of Jacque Thappe visible in 2009 when Tom last visited and was only three years old when his at Deadman Creek the grave, although most of the bones father died. His sister Louisa (Thappe) were gone. The old Spirit House was McDonald was born circa 1886, and Tom Wanyandie turned 86-years- rotted and travellers did not know that was a baby at the time of her father’s old on June 15, 2017. He speaks the pile of rotten wood was a grave death. the Cree language, along with a of an Indian trapper by the name of bit of broken English which is hard Jacque Thappe. Jacque Thappe died in an avalanche to understand. His daughter Emily in1886, while hunting at what is now Bequette travelled with Tom on the Jacque’s family had been called Deadman Creek. Jacque’s young 12-day trip to restore his grandfather’s, employed by the Hudson Bay widow Louise Findlay-Thappe was Jacques Thappe’s grave. She acted Company in the Athabasca District left to raise two young children—Joe, as interpreter during the expedition. for some time before Jacque’s birth. and Louisa—Tommy’s mother. She Tom’s youngest daughter Chehala Baptism records show that Jacque remarried a Métis man by the name Leonard joined her sister and father on Thappe was born on Oct 1853 in Jasper of Donald McDonald, and the couple the expedition. House, the son of Jacque Thappe (Sr.) resided at Jasper House, but left for the and Therese (?). No second name can Grande Cache area, when the Canadian Tom was born in 1931 in a Tipi. be found for Jacque’s mother at this Government created Jasper National He was 38-years-old when The New time. Jacque Thappe married Louise Park. Town of Grande Cache was settled Findlay who was also born circa 1860 in 1969. The Town was created in Jasper House. Scrip records show Tom Wanyandie oversaw the because a new coal mine was built. that Louise and Jacque Thappe knew reconstruction of his grandfather’s Tom wanted to guide the restoration each other growing up in Jasper. The grave. He sang a traditional song, after of his grandfather’s Spirit House couple had six children, however only blessing the grave. Sadly, the skull that reconstruction. His grandfather’s two survived. Marie, Annie, Baptiste, had laid at that burial site since 1886 remains were in a dilapidated grave Samuel and Peggy all died young and was missing. It was still there when Tom in Willmore Wilderness Park, on the were buried at Jasper House. Joseph visited his grandfather’s grave in 2009. Mountain Trail. The skull was still (Thappe) McDonald was born in 1883 Page 23 Annual Edition - 2018

Grave of Baby Delorme at Little Grave Flats

Little is known about the baby been vandalized by either human that is buried at Little Grave Flats. and/or predators. An old cross is etched with “Baby Delorme.” The Willmore Wilderness In light of the fact that we were Foundation and the Mountain Métis not going to travel over Jackknife Center erected a Spirit House over Pass to restore Madeleine Joachim’s this gravesite in 2009. We rode past grave, Susan Feddema-Leonard the grave on the way to Jacque asked Tom Wanyandie to oversee Thappe’s grave and could not see the reconstruction of the little grave. the baby’s Spirit House. The expanse Tom instructed the men to cut four of willows that had overtaken the big logs. They cut them and notched meadow made it impossible to them, making a base that the Spirit Pictured on left page from left to right: see the gravesite. Susan Feddema- House could be nailed onto. This Martin Hallock, Leonard sent the trail crew in search made the white Spirit House more Descendants of Jacque Thappe Tom Wanyandie, Grandson of Thappe of the grave. Bill Leonard rode on secure, making it difficult to pull the structure off of the burial plot. Emily Wanyandie: Great Granddaughter horseback, weaving through the Chehala Leonard: Great Granddaughter thick underbrush. It took an hour Tom took the hand carved cross Pictured top: before he spotted it. The Spirit House and instructed the crew to re-attach was tossed a dozen meters away Baby Delorme Grave and it to the Spirit House. Tom sang a Willmore Wilderness Foundation Trail Crew from the grave site and the cross traditional song, after blessing the with “Baby Delorme” etched on it grave. The trail crew stood in reverence Pictured bottom: was some meters off in the brush in as Tom performed the ceremony. Bill Leonard, Gord Leonard a different direction. The grave had and Tom Wanyandie at Jacque Thappe’s grave. Willmore Wilderness Foundation Page 24

WILLMORE WILDERNESS PRESERVATION AND HISTORICAL FOUNDATION BALANCE SHEET AS AT DECEMBER 31, 2016

2016 2015 $ $ ASSETS Current Cash 1,076.46 0.00 Accounts Receivable 6,847.23 2,487.90 Security Deposits 200.00 200.00 8,123.69 2,687.90 Capital Assets Building 287,000.00 287,000.00 Equipment 15,175.20 13,855.19 Office Equipment 5,335.97 3,972.02 Camera, Video & Film Equipment 64,371.22 64,371.22 Computer 65,792.83 54,955.14 Furniture & Fixtures 15,143.31 14,427.26 452,818.53 438,580.83 Less: Accumulated Amortization 118,846.71 105,982.13 334,071.82 332,598.70

342,195.51 335,286.60

LIABILITIES & EQUITY

Current Liabilities Bank Overdraft 0.00 19,669.38 Accounts Payable 77,525.79 43,833.53 77,525.79 63,502.91

Equity Retained Earnings 264,669.72 271,783.69

342,195.51 335,286.60

Thanks to: Municipal Sustainability Initiative (MSI) Alberta Multimedia Funding Agreement; Travel Alberta: Cooperative Marketing Funding; Alberta Historical Resources Foundation Page 25 Annual Edition - 2018 WILLMORE WILDERNESS PRESERVATION AND HISTORICAL FOUNDATION STATEMENT OF EARNINGS FOR THE YEAR ENDED DECEMBER 31, 2016

2016 2015 $ $ REVENUE General Sales 20.00 80.00 Grants 355,004.94 200,773.51 Memberships 2,737.50 2,046.96 Book Sales 7,691.15 12,159.72 DVD Sales 336.50 632.50 Donations 10,820.00 12,565.00 Contracts 3,537.11 0.00 Interest 19.24 40.70 380,166.44 228,298.39

OPERATING EXPENSES Accounting & Consulting 0.00 4,205.48 Advertising & Promotion 18,974.51 9,606.51 Donations 250.00 135.00 Amortization 12,764.58 13,311.46 Bank/Credit Card Charges & Fees 2,153.51 4,226.04 Insurance 2,289.00 2,233.00 License, Fees & Permits 1,743.60 1,590.81 Loan/Mortgage Interest 0.00 1,219.06 Supplies 19,942.24 4,318.62 Conventions, Banquets & Meetings 2,631.45 2,784.02 Training & Clinics 27,078.01 13,964.57 Office 20,379.68 18,889.98 Utilities 4,104.45 4,098.48 Property Taxes 0.00 1,205.81 Book & Film Production Costs 48,172.06 11,015.67 Telephone & Fax 2,518.59 2,774.64 Maintenance & Repairs 4,500.98 145.44 Travel 10,161.49 7,005.35 Wages & Benefits 122,022.50 91,517.41 Contract Services 87,593.76 73,643.85 387,280.41 267,891.20 Thanks to Macro Properties EARNINGS (LOSS) FROM OPERATIONS -­7,113.97 -­39,592.81 for their generous support

In Partnership with the MD of Greenview Willmore Wilderness Foundation Page 26

Willmore Wilderness Foundation

a registered charitable organization #89655 0308 RR001 Box 93 Grande Cache, Alberta T0E 0Y0 Canada

Phone: 1-780-827-2696 Toll Free: 1-866-WILMORE Email: [email protected]

Web Pages: WillmoreWilderness.com PeopleandPeaks.com Great Divide Consulting Inc., Publisher

© Willmore Wilderness Foundation No portion of this newsletter may be reprinted without written permission. The entire Newsletter is copyrighted ©.

Join Our Membership Online www.youtube.com/user/WillmoreWilderness Purchase Membership’s Online Go to SHOP at: www.youtube.com/user/PeopleandPeaks WillmoreWilderness.com PeopleandPeaks.com AlbertaRockiesAdventures.com Facebook.com/Willmore Wilderness PayPal accepted 1-866-WILMORE or 1-866-945-6673 or 1-780-827-2696 or mail a cheque or money order to the Willmore Wilderness Foundation: Facebook.com/PeopleandPeaks Box 93 Grande Cache, Alberta T0E 0Y0 Canada

Facebook.com/AlbertaRockies Adventures Yearly Membership is as follows: • $25.00 Individual Membership or $100.00 for five years Twitter.com/ABRockies • $35.00 Family Membership or $140.00 for five years • Life Time Membership $500.00 Twitter.com/WillmoreTweets • Corporate Membership $100.00 • Youth Fees are 1/2 price • Visa, MasterCard, American Express, Debit, Interac, PayPal, & Cheques Vimeo.com/PeopleandPeaks Page 27 Annual Edition - 2018 From Willmore’s Wild Camera

Pictured left: Arthur and Laura Veitch Photo by Susan Feddema-Leonard

Photo below courtesy of Arthur Veitch

I shot a lot of “rabbits” while the bloody bunny body. A few years growing up in the Yukon. My brother later, I was tracking a cougar along the and I would load up our .22 calibre Sulphur River. The tracks went from rifles and set off in chilly October a cat taking a leisurely walk to a mad mornings. We learned to spot them dash that ended in entire body slide by looking for their beady black eyes. with small bloody smear to cap it off. They thought they were safe, hiding I could easily envision the 100-pound under their fallen stumps and dead cat tackling the hapless hare. falls. They became sitting ducks when the snow suddenly melted, In keeping with my desire to standing out like white cotton swabs photograph and film all of Grande on a dark grey chair. When their Cache’s wildlife using remote populations peaked, a white tide of cameras, I set up a simple camera rabbits washed through the bush as trap in an area densely populated they retreated from us. with hares. In over two weeks, I managed to make dozens of images I have since learned they are of hares. Scrolling through these actually snowshoe hares. Unlike true images, there is one particular image rabbits, hares change color through of a hare looking alarmed. The next the seasons. In the summer they are image is the backside of a lynx as it a grey, brown. In winter, they become bolted through the scene, hot on the a pure white. The varying camouflage heels of the hare. I don’t know what helps keep them a head of predators transpired after that. Did the hare’s like the Veitch brothers. speed and agility prevail? Later, I found a series of images of a barred I no longer have any interest in owl, inspecting the same site. These killing or eating hares but they still owls are normally eaters of mice and have plenty to worry about. They are smaller rodents but they could tackle on the appetizer menu for almost all bigger hares. of the predators in the Grande Cache area. While hiking the trail circling Even within the boundaries of the golf course, I once spooked up a Grande Cache’s municipal limits, the goshawk that had just killed a hare. life of a hare can be… harrowing. It stared angrily at me from a tree branch just overhead as I inspected By Arthur Veitch Purchase People & Peaks Books & DVD’s Online : Go to SHOP at: WillmoreWilderness.com/shop PeopleandPeaks.com/shop AlbertaRockiesAdventures.com/shop PayPal accepted 1-866-WILMORE or 1-866-945-6673 or 1-780-827-2696 Box 93 Grande Cache, Alberta T0E 0Y0 Canada

People & Peaks of the Panther River & Eastern Slopes

Susan Feddema-Leonard RN, author of People & Peaks of Willmore People & Peaks Share in the history of some of Wilderness Park, shares the unique of the Panther River & Eastern Slopes the biggest Bighorn Sheep taken traditions, culture and history of a social structure in the Canadian People & Peaks of the Panther on Alberta’s eastern slopes. This Rockies. She has a passion for the River & Eastern Slopes is an exposé publication outlines the saga of trail life, mountains, horses, and the of twenty colourful mountain some of the Wardens, Rangers, wilderness; as can be seen in both men and women, whose stories early outfitters, trappers, and her writing and film productions. are woven into the very fabric of mountain men and women. It describes the early geological the Canadian Rockies. Experience For more information on the the first person accounts of survey expeditions on horseback, which opened the oil and gas Willmore Wilderness Foundation or trail men like Bud Brewster, Rex People & Peaks Productions go to: Logan, Dewy Browning, Phil sector. This book will open the reader’s eyes on how our mountain Temple, Ray Legace, Stan Burrell, www.WillmoreWilderness.com regions were first explored by Glen Kilgour, Bob Kjos, and more. www.PeopleandPeaks.com rugged, tenacious people. This The tales of mountain women Facebook.com/WillmoreWilderness untold story of Alberta’s Rocky are revealed as well. Linda Rose Facebook.com/PeopleandPeaks Mountains will be a hard book is a trail hand and expert horse Vimeo.com/PeopleandPeaks woman who will inspire ladies to put down. The publication is @WillmoreTweets that have a passion to be one illustrated with stunning images

with the land. Her frank, matter- and supplemented with archival

Women of Willmore Wilderness Willmore of Women People & Peaks & People of-fact accounts will leave the photos. Following the lead of historic women who challenged the traditions readers enthralled and laughing. of the day, blazing trails into a man’s world on horseback in the Canadian Rockies, modern generations of women face their own challenges to travel these same trails.

Traveling as horseback people was a way of life for Native and Métis women living nomadically with their families in the Rocky Mountains. Later, and prior to World War I, a small number of affluent women afforded the services of packhorse outfitters to guide them into unexplored areas of the Canadian Rockies. With the advent of the Second World War, there People & Peaks

was a birth of feminism, and women began participating in non-traditional Women of Willmore Wilderness Author: roles, including careers in the mountain wilderness. Many were trying to survive the post depression era, etching a living off the land; while others Susan were adventurers seeking a sense of freedom. Most of these women lived “outside the box” and were visionaries of their time. These explorers shed Feddema- society’s expectations and followed their dreams, becoming more of “who Leonard they were” in a landscape they loved. Photos front and back

Women of Willmore Wilderness shares the stories of women past and Published by: present as they reveal how their experiences in mountain culture deeply courtesy of Bud and Annette Brewster

inspired them. Meet free thinking individuals who blazed trails into a Willmore man’s rugged world. Share the humour and deep emotion of these souls

who find the essence of their lives’ work on trails rarely traveled. Wilderness Foundation

PeopleandPeaks.com

12-12-06 10:30 PM Facebook.com/WillmoreWilderness Author: Susan Facebook.com/PeopleandPeaks WillmoreWilderness.com Feddema- Twitter.com/WillmoreTweets Leonard WOWW Cover.indd 1 Published by: Vimeo.com/PeopleandPeaks

Willmore Wilderness Foundation

Face of Time - Book Cover_web.indd 1

13-02-26 7:59 PM

This is our last hardcopy newsletter. Stay informed by visiting our websites, LIKING our social media sites and FOLLOWING us on YouTube. Members will still recieve a President’s Report and Annual Financial Statement with their Annual Membership Renewal by mail each year.