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Northern Rockies TransCanada Ecotours® TransCanada “This book wonderfully Let the Northern Rockies Ecotour set your compass Discover the secrets of a spectacular interlaces the physical, for a remarkable journey of discovery through the Canadian landscape with the biological and historical northern part of the Canadian Rocky Mountain qualities of one of Parks World Heritage site. 265 photos, 22 maps and TransCanada Ecotours® Canada’s iconic regions. 133 Ecopoints present the region’s rich First Nations An entertaining but highly history, exploits of early fur-traders, artists, mission- aries, tourists, and scientists, and the ongoing inter- educational account that Northern play of people, wildlife and their inspiring mountain will captivate all who ecosystem. The authors draw on current research traverse the Northern to discuss key environmental issues such as climate Rockies be it by bike, car, Rockies change and biodiversity conservation. train or vicariously from their living room.” You will explore the eastern foothills (Chapter One) Highway Guide ending in historic Grande Cache, then travel west on NIK LOPOUKHINE CHAIR IUCN WORLD COMMISSION the Yellowhead Highway (Chapter Two) following ON PROTECTED AREAS major rivers across the continental divide from Hinton Guide Northern Rockies Highway to Valemount, British Columbia. In the concluding Chapter Three, the Ecotour turns southwards from Jasper along the spectacular Icefields Parkway through the Rockies, ending near Lake Louise. See the full route map on page 5 INSTITUTE RESEARCH FOOTHILLS $24.95 P.O. Box 6330 A lavishly illustrated driving guide 133 points of interest, 265 photos, 1176 Switzer Drive to the landscapes, geology, ecology, 22 maps that include: Hinton, Alberta T7V 1X6 culture, people and history of the Hinton – Cadomin – Grande Cache – Canada Northern Rockies Region of Alberta Jasper – Valemount – and the and British Columbia. Icefields Parkway ecotour.foothillsri.ca PRINTED IN CANADA Northern Rockies Ecotour FRED POLLETt • rOBERt udell • PETER MURPhy • tOM PETERSON EcoTour INTERIOR Layout no 5.ind1 1 3/27/12 1:10:53 PM Contents Acknowledgements vii Introduction 1 Chapter 1 The Eastern Foothills 1-1 Green Square, Hinton 16 1-2 The Beaver Boardwalk 17 1-3 Hinton Training Centre: The Forestry Trail, Fire Training, Forest Research 22 1-4 Mountain Bike Park and Trails 27 1-5 The Natural Resources Interpretive Park 28 1-6 Where Trails Cross 29 1-7 The Managed Forest 32 1-8 Chinook’s Christmas Fire 33 1-9 Gregg River and the Greggs 35 1-10 Mining and Reclamation 37 1-11 Luscar: Coal Mining Interpretive Site 38 1-12 Cadomin 40 1-13 Cadomin Cave: Bats at Risk 42 1-14 The McLeod River and the First Tourist 43 1-15 Whitehorse Creek Recreation Area 46 1-16 Mountain Park Cemetery 47 1-17 Whitehorse Wildland Provincial Park 49 1-18 The Cardinal Divide 50 1-19 Gregg Cabin Recreation Area 52 1-20 McLeod River Silviculture Interpretive Trail 53 1-21 Anderson Creek − Stream Protection 54 1-22 The Athabasca River 56 1-23 Old Entrance 57 1-24 Brûlé Lake - An Array of Landscapes and History 61 1-25 William A. Switzer Provincial Park - The Athabasca Lookout Nordic Centre 67 1-26 Kelley’s Bathtub: Switzer Park Interpretive Centre 68 1-27 Healthy Landscapes: Willmore Wilderness Park 69 1-28 Old Lower Road 72 1-29 Caribou Habitat Experiment − Growing Lichen 73 EcoTour INTERIOR Layout no 5.ind3 3 3/27/12 1:10:54 PM 1-30 Berland River: Caribou Country 74 1-31 Caribou − Icon of the North in Decline 77 1-32 Pierre Grey’s Lakes Provincial Park and the Hamlet of Muskeg 79 1-33 Muskeg River Graveyard 81 1-34 Bull Trout − Muskeg River − Muskeg Falls 82 1-35 Grande Cache Lake 83 1-36 Grande Cache Tourism and Interpretive Centre 84 1-37 The Sulphur Gates 88 Chapter 2 Yellowhead Across the Rocky Mountains 2-1 Moberly Cemetery 93 2-2 Overlander Rest Stop 93 2-3 The Portal to Jasper − Jasper Park Gate 95 2-4 Fiddle River 96 2-5 Pocahontas 98 2-6 Ashlar Ridge 99 2-7 Miette Hot Springs 100 2-8 Roche Miette and Disaster Point 101 2-9 Jasper House II: National Historic Site 105 2-10 Talbot Lake Picnic Site 109 2-11 Jasper Lake 111 2-12 Cold Sulphur Spring 113 2-13 Snaring River Bridge 114 2-14 Henry House Flats 116 2-15 The Palisades Stewardship Education Centre 119 2-16 The Moberly Homestead and the Métis Exodus 120 2-17 Palisades Picnic Site 122 2-18 The Brigades and the Express 124 2-19 Meeting of the Three Rivers − Turnoff to Maligne Lake Road 126 2-20 Jasper Park Lodge 127 2-21 The Skyline Trail 128 2-22 Athabasca Panorama 130 2-23 Maligne Canyon and Trail System 131 2-24 Medicine Lake Viewpoint 132 2-25 Rosemary’s Rock 135 2-26 Maligne Lake 136 2-27 Douglas-Fir at Pine Bungalows 141 2-28 Where’s Henry House? – Old Fort Point 142 2-29 Jasper Information Centre National Historic Site 145 2-30 Discovery Trail 146 EcoTour INTERIOR Layout no 5.ind4 4 3/27/12 1:10:54 PM 2-31 The Jasper-Yellowhead Museum 147 2-32 Pyramid Lake Road 148 2-33 The Church of St. Mary and St. George 151 2-34 Miette River Bridge 152 2-35 Miette River Lookout 154 2-36 Yellowhead Pass, National Historic Site 155 2-37 Internment Camp Memorial Historical Site 157 2-38 Lucerne 157 2-39 Fraser Crossing 158 2-40 The Mountain Pine Beetle and Moose Lake 159 2-41 Overlander Falls 162 2-42 Mt. Robson: The Berg Lake Trail 162 2-43 Terry Fox Memorial 165 2-44 Rearguard Falls 166 2-45 Tête Jaune Cache 167 2-46 Jackman Flats Provincial Park 170 2-47 Valemount 171 Chapter 3 The Icefields arkwayP 3-1 Miette River Bridge 177 3-2 Whistlers 178 3-3 Wapiti and Wolves 180 3-4 Athabasca River Bridge 181 3-5 Prairie de la Vache 182 3-6 Whirlpool Valley Viewpoint 183 3-7 Athabasca Falls: Alternate Route 184 3-8 Up the Whirlpool to Athabasca Pass 185 3-9 Mystery Trees 187 3-10 Meeting of the Waters 188 3-11 Mt. Edith Cavell 189 3-12 Marmot Basin 190 3-13 The Rupicaprin and/or the Mountain Goat? 191 3-14 Mt. Fryatt Viewpoint 193 3-15 Mt. Christie Viewpoint: Moberly’s Bend 194 3-16 Sunwapta Falls 195 3-17 Bubbling Springs 196 3-18 Poboktan Creek: The A.P. Coleman Story 196 3-19 Jonas Rockslide 199 3-20 Beauty Creek and the Beauty Creek Flats 201 3-21 Stutfield Glacier Viewpoint 203 EcoTour INTERIOR Layout no 5.ind5 5 3/27/12 1:10:54 PM 3-22 Tangle Falls 203 3-23 Sunwapta Canyon Viewpoint: Old Trees 204 3-24 The Shooting Gallery 204 3-25 Columbia Icefield and the Icefield Centre 205 3-26 Wilcox Pass 207 3-27 Sunwapta Pass 208 3-28 Parker Ridge Trail 209 3-29 Nigel Creek − Collie’s View 210 3-30 North Saskatchewan Valley Viewpoint 212 3-31 Big Bend 212 3-32 Weeping Wall 213 3-33 Graveyard Flats 213 3-34 Mt. Amery, Mt. Saskatchewan Viewpoint 214 3-35 Rampart Ponds 215 3-36 Glacier Lake Trail: David Thompson Walked Here 215 3-37 Saskatchewan Crossing … and Howse Pass 216 3-38 Tephra, Fingerprints of a Volcano 220 3-39 Mistaya Canyon and Howse Pass 222 3-40 Lower Waterfowl Lake 223 3-41 Upper Waterfowl Lake 224 3-42 Peyto Glacier Viewpoint 224 3-43 Bow Summit/Pass and Peyto Lake 226 3-44 Subalpine Meadow 228 3-45 Num-Ti-Jah Lodge on Bow Lake 229 3-46 Crowfoot Glacier Viewpoint 232 3-47 Hector Lake 233 3-48 Mt. Hector 235 3-49 Herbert Lake 236 References 237 Index 239 EcoTour INTERIOR Layout no 5.ind6 6 3/27/12 1:10:55 PM Acknowledgements Text Contributions: A special thanks to D.F.W. (Doug) Research and Review Pollard and Robert (Bob) Stevenson who were responsible for pioneering David Andison, Tom Archibald, and producing the first Ecotours Denise Barry, Susan Berry, Dave in Canada, in 1973 and 1974 Birrell, Jules Blais, Rick Bonar, Guy respectively. Both have been key Brassard, David Carnegie–13th Earl contributors to the Northern Rockies of Southesk, Allan Carroll, Boyd Ecotour; Doug through his research Case, Bill Cheliak, Roger Couture, and text, and Bob as a reviewer from Mike Demuth, Mike Dillon, Denis start to finish. And our particular Faucher, Jessica Desany Ganong, appreciation to Ben Gadd who, in Alison Girling, Adam Gossell, providing a manuscript edit, also Joyce Gould, Brian Haddon, Keith contributed significant and valued Hammer, Brian Kahn, Werner text changes and additions. Kurz, Lisa Jones, Archie Landals, Martin Legault, Mary Luger, Sean Finally, although he is one of the Kinney, Beth MacCallum, Bruce authors of this publication, the other Mayer, Richard McCrea, Sherrill members of the team recognize the Meropoulis, Ron Peletier, Amber privilege and value of working with Pollett, Sandra Pollett, Meghan Tom Peterson, whose dedication to, Power, Dennis Quintilio, Lisa historical knowledge of, and library Sherlock, Dave Smith, Gordon of materials relating to the region Stenhouse, Victoria Suwalski, Patrick are quite simply remarkable. Tom’s Suwalski, Scott Sunderwald, Marc knowledge is generously available Symbaluk, Diana Tomback, Joan to all. Udell, Jan Volney, Ken Walker, Kim With apologies to those we may Weir, Cliff White, Stephen Wolfe, have inadvertently omitted. Without Dave Winston, Richard Wuorinen, the input and expertise of all Chris Yorath. contributors this book would be much diminished.
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