Willmore Wilderness Newsletter

Youth Venture into Willmore

We want to recognize this year’s who accompanied Zarina and her mom. Emy who both started ‘wildies’ that were youngest traveler in Willmore. Jaely Continuing on in the youth theme, running free in the mountains. Angeen Moberly (age two weeks) was the smallest pictured above are youth who hiked to also started a frisky four-year-old mare Willmore trail hand, and she traveled to Kvass Flats Camp with their moms for a in the Larry Nelles Clinic. Our hats go Kvass Flats Camp on two occasions. A three-day camping trip in August. From off to these three ladies. The Willmore close second in the youngest category is left to right are travelers Payton with Wilderness Foundation sponsored these five-week old Payden who went to Corral mom Jaeda Feddema, also holding Jaely young women along with many other Creek Camp with big sister Brooklyn on their second trip. The lovely Rowan youth at the colt starting clinic. and his parents, Joey Landry and Tyler is eating a cookie with her mom Kim Jenn, Angeen and Emy spent McMahon. The third youngest goes out Teneyck also holding son Julien, with son extensive time in Willmore Park this to six-month old Zarina who traveled Kahleb to the right. summer and fall riding their colts. to Kvass Flats with her mother Becky Pictured (from left to right) above are These three young ladies were filmed Leonard. Special mention goes out to Jenn Houlihan, Angeen Hallock and Emy during the clinic for the movie “Wildie” three-year-old Zachary and one-year-old Hallock. We wish to commend Jenn and currently in production. Way to go girls! Marcus, sons of Jim and Angela Leonard Willmore Wilderness Newsletter Page 2 Willmore Bannock Queen

Gather around fellow riders So it came to be The contest is over. For a sad story I tell On one rainy night They called out in glee About the Willmore Bannock Queen The Queen & the stranger “The strangers is better Her slow descent to hell. Did meet for the fight. And what’s more its free!”

It all started with a challenge The wood stove was fired The Queen was despondent That Queen Suzie threw out And ingredients a-mix And started to cry. “My bannock is the best Honest judges were chosen She jumped on her horse Of that I have no doubt!” To ensure there was no fix. And off she did fly

But her subjects all muttered Throughout the dark night Back home to her cabin This cannot be true The bannock baked late Tucked along the Kvass, For a stranger has arrived But soon it was time Where she can still be heard saying And only his bannock will do. And the judges set to ate. “That Brian can kiss my ass!”

It was amazing to see The Queen she got mad Anonymous And said “Off with his head!” The look on their faces But her subjects all demanded When the stranger’s bannock A cook-off instead. Was put in front of their places.

Inside this issue

January 2011 President’s Report 3 Willmore Wanderings 20 Willmore Wilderness Foundation Annual Newsletter Views from Sheep Creek 6 Jenn’s Journal 22 © Willmore Wilderness Foundation no portion of this newsletter may be reprinted Financial Report 24 without written permission. Marvin (Red) Creighton 8 Registered Charitable Organization #89655 0308 RR0001 Moccasin Telegraph 10 Auction Dates 24

Memberships 12 Youth Mentored 32

Grizzly Findings 14

Motion 507 16

Tales & Trails in the Wilderness 18 Page 3 Annual Edition - January 2011

President’s Report

Hi Everyone: Nelles Colt Starting Clinic. The It has been another busy year for Foundation sponsored a dozen youth the Willmore Wilderness Foundation. to attend. Two young teens brought Of note, an extremely important ‘wildies’ that had been running piece of legislation called Motion 507 freely in the mountains. The girls was passed on April 12, 2010. Robin successfully started the wild mares. Campbell, West Yellowhead MLA We also sponsored several teenage introduced the Motion to the Alberta boys who started some pretty snuffy Legislature. Motion 507 was designed colts. All in all, the six-day clinic was to keep Willmore Wilderness a huge success. The youth, along with Act intact. In the end, it wil keep many participants who were young Willmore Wilderness Park unique, at heart, learned some valuable governed under its own legislation. lessons from Larry Nelles. We were A re-print of the Alberta Hansard very pleased as three Jasper Park Report dated April 12, 2010 is in this Wardens attended the clinic along newsletter. It is well worth reading with one Jasper Park Warden who and will help everyone understand was a spectator. Thanks to Danny what went on behind the scenes. I Leonard and Cody Leonard who would say that this shows excellent were a great help to Larry. We hope to bring Larry back again in June 2011. foresight on Robin Campbell’s part. Pictured Above: Bazil Leonard One of our biggest education Bottom Left: Larry Nelles endeavors this year was the Larry Bottom Right: Brittney Penny .... continued on Page 4 Photos by S. Feddema-Leonard Willmore Wilderness Newsletter Page 4

President’s Report - continued from Page 3 Our trail clearing initiatives and year we replenished Big Grave, garbage clean-up initiative went Sulphur Cabin, Camp Awasuk, Little well. We would like to thank the Grave, Boulder Creek and Porcupine Alberta Conservation Association Lick campsites with wood. This was for sponsoring garbage clean up and done as bush etiquette, and we hope trail maintenance done in Willmore. that people who use the Willmore We thank our volunteers Brian and would replace the firewood for the Deana Bildson, Andrew Manske, and next party that comes along. Virginia Moore who worked hard on Alberta Parks is constructing half a nineteen-day trip in August of this a dozen patrol cabins in Willmore. year. Our youth participants included They started the building this year. Logan Leonard and Tyler Hallock. The Willlmore Foundation Executive In fact, the Foundation mentored is concerned about the location of eight youth during the 2010 Trail some of these cabins. We feel that Clearing Initiatives. These youth were this is much more of a ‘Big Brother’ from Edson, Hinton and Grande approach to managing the Park. In Cache. A snow fence was among days gone by, the Alberta Forest some of the garbage that the youth Service and Fish and Wildlife used collected. Our volunteers and youth horses and tents like the rest of the picked thousands of yards of pine Willmore users. Alberta Parks appear beetle ribbon from trees. This type of to be adopting a Jasper Parks style of plastic is not biodegradable. The youth management. also picked up campsite garbage, as A second concern that surfaced well as doing basic trail maintenance this year is regarding the motion Garbage has been gradually cameras that Alberta Parks is using accumulating in the Park since 2002. extensively. The Board of Directors is Foundation volunteers have been very unhappy about the use of these trying to keep the campsites and cameras and feels that it is an invasion trails clean of trash, but the issue has of privacy. Please read Brian Bildson’s reached critical mass. A coordinated Article called “Big Brother,” which effort needs to be organized with elaborates on this. respect to garbage removal. Old We want to thank the Alberta barbed wire and metal posts are Fish and Game Association and the strewn throughout the Park, which Wild Sheep Foundation-Alberta SRD abandoned and have forgotten Chapter for sponsoring the 2010 about. The wire is a hazard to wildlife Grizzly Bear Survey. We have had and horses alike. We need to look twice as many sightings reported this at an organized plan regarding the year than in 2009. Our staff member, collection of the abandoned research Jenn Houlihan is working very closely sites—whose researchers have long with Nathan Webb, the Provincial ago, gone and forgotten their scientific Carnivore specialist on the 2010 projects. Survey. One thing I have noticed is The Willmore Wilderness that the number of reports of twins Foundation stocked various campsites and triplets has increased dramatically. in Willmore with firewood as a This would indicate a very healthy bear courtesy during the 2010 year. This population. I would encourage you Page 5 Annual Edition - January 2011

to read “2010 Grizzly Survey Report” around the beaver dams and we There are many developments on in the newsletter, which was put want to thank Ken and Gordon future book publications and film together by Jenn Houlihan and myself. Groat, who were working in extreme productions. I would encourage you The Willmore Wilderness weather conditions and on some of to check out the Moccasin Telegraph Foundation was awarded the the toughest trails that Willmore has. regarding this. I would be remiss if I Alberta Parks Trail Clearing Brian Allen completed the work on didn’t thank Susan for all her hours in Contract for Willmore Wilderness the Little Berland and did a great job. the mountains as a full-time trail hand. Park and Kakwa Wildland Park. The We thank Ken and Shelli Groat, Tom She also does the cooking, filming, Kakwa Contract went well and Wanyandie, Dylan Kowalski and Banjo journalizing and is the camp nurse. She the Board was very pleased with Hallock who completed work on Jack helped me tremendously in this regard. the help that Grande Prairie Parks Knife Pass. Last but not least, we depend staff supplied. They provided our The Foundation did a lot of other on the support of our members at trail clearing crew with helicopter work, which was not part of the Alberta our yearly auctions and fundraisers. support and use of their cabins Park Trail Clearing Contract. This work Without your support, we cannot do The Willmore Wilderness Trail was completed as our Foundation felt the this kind of work. We are hoping for Clearing Contract was going well trails were in desperate need of clearing. a good turnout for our fundraisers until September when weather We thank Ed Regnier who cleared trail this year. The dates are listed in the ground things to a halt. Six-inch snow from Blue Grouse Camp to half way up Newsletter on Page 24. conditions made it necessary to leave the Blue Grouse Pass. The Foundation cleared trail from Big Grave Cabin up to Porcupine Lick earlier than expected, Pictured Above: Participants take their colts as the snow conditions in the high Rocky Pass. This portion of the trail was out for their first ride alpine area was less than ideal to cleared by five youth that the Foundation move an outfit through. All trails in mentored. These youth included Tyler Opposite or Left Hand Page: that area are in poor condition and Hallock, Banjo Hallock, Angeen Hallock, Top: Jasper Park Warden Patti Walker, need a lot more work Eli Hallock and Jenn Houlihan. The youth one of three Wardens who started ranged in age from thirteen to twenty. a colt at the clinic. We thank Ken South, Dave Middle: Tyler McMahon, a Willmore guide Wildman and Richard Aarsen who They were all proficient trail hands at the starts a colt at the clinc completed the Adams Creek and end of the trip. Bottom: The crowd watches Larry Nelles a Collie Creek Trail. The re-route Susan (Feddema-Leonard) “horseman’s horseman.” on the North Jack Knife was done continues with her writing and filming. Photos by Susan Feddema-Leonard Willmore Wilderness Newsletter Page 6 Views from Sheep Creek Brian Bildson - Executive Director

Flash forward to August and my Big Brother in the Bush own personal trip deep into the Willmore. After three weeks on the trail, I had finally depressurized and reached that calm mental state that only the bush can bring. That is, until I met a bunch of irate cowboys on the trail. As our pack-string passed theirs, they called out, “Make sure you smile for the camera!” At which point I turned back to find out what they were talking about. It wasn’t much of a conversation as it essentially boiled down to the fact they’d spotted a trail camera set up taking pictures of anyone passing by on the trail, and they were mad about it. I couldn’t blame them, but at that point I wasn’t sure whose camera it really was. Once I hit civilization, it didn’t take long to find out that the Brian Bildson traps a wolverine cameras were set up as part of the on his trapline at Sheep Creek Human Dimension study. I started to dig deeper and I’ve always been proud to be a being conducted by Debbie Mucha, a U contacted Debbie Mucha who was in Canadian. Not a rah-rah Yankee- of A grad student. This study was being charge of the study. Debbie informed style patriotism, but just damn proud done in partnership with Alberta Parks, me that while they may not have of what this country has stood for the U of A, and the FRI. The purpose mentioned the cameras at the AGM, over the years. Canadians have gone of the study is “visitor-use analysis of they had put an ad in the Hinton to several wars fighting and dying Willmore Wilderness Park” in an effort newspaper about them. As I pushed for what we believe in—democracy, to “help Parks identify users and deploy for more evidence of the consultation human rights, and freedom. Yet resources to benefit users and provide process, Debbie went into defense somehow we’ve allowed our own crucial data in developing marketing mode, and that was the last I heard freedoms to be slowly eroded right strategies…” It sounds pretty from her. At that point I felt that here at home. harmless on the surface, doesn’t it? contacting Parks was the way to go. I’d like to share one example of At the AGM we were told that To be clear here; the real issue is this slippery slope of loss of our rights, the information would be captured not the flawed public consultation/ and not surprisingly, my battle is with through in-person surveys and information process, although that is the bureaucrats at Alberta Parks. Let through the use of GPS tracksticks an all too-familiar trend with Parks. me explain. Back in June of this year, offered to Park visitors to track their No, the Foundation’s real concern a representative from the Foothills movements throughout the Park. is the use by Parks of the cameras Research Institute (FRI) attended the One of our members brought up the for the purpose of capturing human AGM of the Willmore Wilderness subject of trail cameras and was told images. In fact, the Board of the Foundation. Peter was there to discuss by the representative that he had no Willmore Foundation decided this a “Willmore Human Dimension” study knowledge of cameras being used. Page 7 Annual Edition - January 2011

issue was too big to ignore and tasked the Research, at the same time, I’ve me with pursuing this matter. sure noticed a lot of damage control. During the course of my Foothills Research Institute has pulled investigation, I discovered that trail their web page info on the project; cameras are being used throughout U of A researcher Debbie Mucha Alberta Parks to capture human has ceased all communications with images. Whether it’s an attempt to us; and, coincidentally, they finally identify Willmore users or track managed to run a piece in the Grande snowmobilers in the Wild Kakwa, Cache paper on the project on cameras have become pervasive in September 29th—just before they many of our Parks. How do you feel terminated the project for the year. about that? Doesn’t sound much like a project I know how I feel, and it’s not they are proud of. good. Over the years I’ve bumped On the surface some folks may into several trail cams set up by Parks; think, what’s the big deal with however, by their location it was cameras unless you’ve got something obvious they were there for species to hide? And besides, the cameras If you do, shouldn’t a Wilderness management purposes. From grizzly to aren’t there for enforcement purposes Park by definition be that very place? wolverine camera set-ups, I’ve found anyway, right? While we have The world is changing at a blazing them all. I’ve never complained about nothing to hide, I’m not naïve, and rate of speed. We have high speed or tampered with the cameras, as I when pushed, the regional manager communication tools everywhere, and could see the rationale behind them. conceded they would be used for our kids have disengaged from the real enforcement purposes should the So what’s the big deal with a trail world, preferring instead to spend their infraction be serious enough. camera set-up for humans then? How time in some virtual world. In time about the slow erosion of our rights to As for their other planned use for our wilderness parks have the real privacy, in the very place it should be the data to develop marketing plans, potential of being an oasis of serenity treasured and protected? Take a look at I’d suggest they focus on actually in a too-fast and over-developed world. our society today. We’ve allowed fear, making the Park safe for those new But apparently we need to be vigilant, or apathy, to taint our common sense, visitors. The trail systems are in or they’ll just turn into another Banff and we have put cameras everywhere. disarray and trail map information still or Jasper—beautiful destinations, but Whether in the name of fighting crime incorrect after years of Foundation not a true wilderness. or terrorism, cameras have become input and corrections. It seems like The Willmore Wilderness pervasive in our public spaces. Parks is in a hurry to get customers Foundation was formed because of for a product that isn’t yet safe for It was with this thought in mind issues just like this. The members are their own residents, let alone a foreign that I entered into discussion with the committed to maintaining the original visitor. By the way, increased tourism managers at Parks. After much back- intent of the Willmore Act, and that was their rationale for pushing for a and-forth, an initial offer was made: does not include being photographed by World Heritage designation for the back off for this year, and the cameras researchers looking for an easy way to Willmore as well. wouldn’t be put in place next year. Our capture marketing data. Parks Minister response was if they’re not appropriate At the end of the day though, this Cindy Ady, at Calgary.shaw@assembly. next year, they’re not appropriate all comes down to one basic question. ab.ca , is the perfect place to make your this year. I continued going back and Do you believe there should be places opinion known. forth on the matter with Parks, but in for citizens to go where they can get the end they are standing behind the away from it all—places where you have project and continuing on with it. a reasonable expectation of privacy, and Big Brother, back off, While they may be standing behind chance to connect to the land? and leave the Willmore wild! Willmore Wilderness Newsletter Page 8 Marvin (Red) Creighton by Jim Babala Marvin F. (Red) Creighton was and his attorney of many years Col. born October 6, 1902 in Greenhill, J. K. Howard. Col. Howard had just Nova Scotia and moved to Alberta returned to civilian life from the US in 1920. He went to work at logging Army and was recovering from a bout camps driving and breaking horses to of malaria. He had been a colonel work skidding logs and as teams. Red under Gen. Stillwell. got to be known as one of the best Larry McGuire was a good friend of teamsters in the business, driving John Haggblad, and he asked John if he four and six-ups. His horsemanship would guide for them during the 1946 got to be well known among logging season. John was assigned to guide companies. Col. Howard As the colonel was just He next moved to Jasper, Alberta getting over malaria, he made the trip in 1924 and drove a dray team mostly to help regain his health—so he delivering coal and other services was taking it real easy. He was leisurely around the town of Jasper. In 1930 enjoying his trail ride, camp life and he started working for Jack Brewster fishing. This outing was agreeing with breaking horses and as a guide. In the colonel, and he was feeling better 1936 he and Stan Kitchen formed a than he had for some time. partnership in the outfitting business John and the colonel decided to that lasted until 1943 when he sold his make a try for a goat as they had Author, Jim Babala was a interest to Stan Kitchen. seen many goats low down on the long-time Willmore Wilderness Park guide and outfitter. In 1944 Red, in partnership with mountains. Even in the valleys, goats Photo courtesy of Jim Babala Larry McGuire, bought out Jack were everywhere. The colonel Brewster’s outfitting business. thought a goat would make a nice rug Jack Brewster had a number of for his daughter. young unbroken horses ranging They made a spike camp and took along the Rocky River. These horses a goat as well as a good buck mule had never been handled or halter deer. While spike camping, the topic broke, as Jack hadn’t been active for a of sheep hunting came up. The colonel number of years. Larry McGuire had was an experienced sheep hunter and grown up in Jasper and had worked as had made several trips after sheep. He a guide and wrangler. He had helped had made two trips with the famous outfitters in many horse roundups Jim Simpson from Bow Lake who had and also had experience in breaking taken the famous Simpson ram in 1924. horses. Larry and Red took on the The best ram Col. Howard had job of breaking these horses, and they taken with Simpson had a 39¼-inch broke out forty head. The two of curl with a light base and was taken them started outfitting in partnership in 1929. The colonel told Jim that he during the 1945 season and had a very wanted a ram with a curl over 40 successful year. inches and a heavy base. John told The next year they were booked the Colonel that he figured he could up better than ever. That season they get one out of the Coal Branch area booked a party of five from Boston: a where he and his brother Nick used wealthy businessman by the name of to hunt and outfit. Endicott. Endicott brought along his John told the colonel he had son, daughter, a friend of his daughter, promised to guide for Babala Bros. Page 9 Annual Edition - January 2011

for the 1947 season. Babala Bros. to work a trip or two with Red and were starting an outfitting business Larry, but due to involvement in my in Haggblad’s old hunting area, the own outfitting business and constant Coal Branch and Brazeau River. The bookings, I was unable to do this. colonel said he would make the Red continued to take good hunt the following year if his health rams in the Kvass area, taking an continued to improve and if John exceptionally good head in 1949. would guide him. He also made Ed Moberly guided a hunter to a arrangements with Red Creighton 41½-inch ram during that season. Red to hunt elk in the Brazeau River area told me he felt the wrong hunter from September 1 to 21 of 1947 had taken this fine ram, as he was to get an elk with better than six definitely not a sheep hunter. Red points to the side. What he wanted said that the goat this hunter also was seven points to the side or took meant as much to him as the better. He would then book with fine ram. He was not a trophy hunter, Babala Bros. from September 25 to and it was his first big game hunt and October 12 and would confirm the probably his last. Red said he never hunt during February of 1947. This heard from the hunter again, as quite all depended on his health. often happens when a hunter only He phoned me during February, makes one trip in a lifetime. confirming the proposed hunt, but Red Creighton bought out Larry better yet, said his daughter would McGuire in 1951, and Larry joined the accompany him also as a hunter. This Park Warden Service. Red carried was Babala Bros.’ first non-resident on, however, running a first class hunt from outside of Canada. This outfit. He retired from the outfitting made John Haggblad the “grandfather” business in 1964 and sold his business of Babala Bros. outfitting and Red and the Black Cat Ranch to Dave Creighton the “godfather.” I have Slutker from Edmonton. On his much to be grateful for to both these retirement Red lived in the Brule and men. Without their help and good Hinton area and worked during the words of recommendation of the Coal winter months in Hinton and Jasper as Branch area, I don’t believe we would an ice maker for winter sports. Red Creighton in 1949 have booked this hunt. He was an expert at making curling with a Record Book Ram The Endicott party had a very ice. Curling is a very popular winter on the Sulphur River successful hunt, taking a fine bag of sport in Canada. As well, Red did a mixed trophies. The best rams taken lot of carpentry and eventually built that was not were in the 37 to 38-inch class. No himself a home in Brule where he officially recorded. 40-inch rams were seen, and now retired and lived permanently. I visited more than ever, this encouraged the Red for the last time in late November Photo courtesy of Jim Babala colonel to hunt the Coal Branch area. 1984 and spent an evening with him. John Haggblad came back very I had just come back from hunting pleased with his trip with Red and Whitetail deer in the Czar-Provost Larry. He was very impressed at how area of Alberta and was feeling pleased well Red was organized and how well as I had taken a fine record book he managed his outfit. John suggested Whitetail, scoring 171-3/8 points. it would be good experience for me ... continued on page 13 Willmore Wilderness Newsletter Page 10 The Moccasin Telegraph Many changes have hit Alberta’s The big question was, “Was it possible eastern slopes over the past half to get film productions to a television century. The traditions, culture and standard, so that the story could be seen business of the people who have lived by a wider audience?” There was so in this region for generations have much to learn and a big mountain of been threatened. In order to become knowledge to climb. proactive and help remedy this The Foundation started the big situation, the Willmore Wilderness task of filming old timers and getting Foundation applied to Alberta their interviews for posterity. These Agriculture and Rural Development interviews were transcribed and for funding to help the mountain placed in a database. In fact, the business community make a transition Foundation is still in the process of into today’s economy. The Foundation interviewing and transcribing. Editor developed the Transition to Traditions Estella Cheverie and author Susan initiative, which was successfully Feddema-Leonard are working on funded through the Government three more books and hope to go of Alberta’s Rural Community to press with one of them in the Adaptation Grant Program. spring of 2011. All of the publications Transition to Traditions will spend are about the people and peaks of two and a half years focusing on the Alberta’s eastern slopes. transition of a traditional economy Susan Feddema-Leonard The Foundation has also acquired Photo by Jaeda Feddema on Alberta’s eastern slopes. The a state of the art film production project will end in September 2011. studio. People & Peaks Productions Transition to Traditions is designed in was registered with Consumer and Thanks to the part to create a database of the old Corporate Affairs as a Trade Name time knowledge and resources in the under the Willmore Wilderness Government of Alberta’s region. The program also focuses Foundation. Susan Feddema-Leonard, on producing and disseminating Film Producer and Director, explored Rural Community educational videos and material, educational options and became Adaptation Grant Program featuring the old time traditions a successful graduate of the Serac of the area. The initiative hopes Adventure Film School in Colorado to facilitate a strategy to help a and two Banff Adventure Filmmakers traditional business sector keep its Seminars. She had the good fortune & to MLA Robin Campbell operations viable. The main goal of to study under the world-renowned the Transitions Program is focused on Film Producers Michael Brown and facilitating the mountain community, Keith Partridge. businesses and stakeholders into a The next step was to develop unique way of doing business. a movie production team. The The Willmore Board of Directors Foundation decided to enlist the felt it imperative to find a way to services of the mountain community give the mountain culture, traditions musicians and film production and businesses a second breath of personnel, subcontracting out many life. What better way than through of the projects. For example, the multimedia. The Foundation had Foundation secured the services of vision and believed that educational Laura Vinson and Free Spirit to write film production was a key ingredient some original songs about Alberta’s to get “the mountain story out there.” eastern slopes. Laura was an ideal Page 11 Annual Edition - January 2011

Working on Long Road Home’s postproduction sound at Dave Martineau’s recording studio in Brule Alberta. Pictured from left to right are Susan Feddema-Leonard Jerry Woolsey and Dave Martineau.

Photo by Dawn Woolsey choice as she was born and raised worked in film post-production sound Foundation contracted Andrew in the Rockies. She was the perfect with clients such as the National Manske, a cinematographer, editor and person to do the job as she has been Film Board of Canada, Karvonen director who has more than ten years nominated many times for the National Films, Alliance Entertainment, experience in the television industry. Juno and Canadian country Music LucasArts Entertainment, Northstar Andrew and Brian Bildson, Executive Awards. Laura and her band Free Spirit Entertainment, Frame 30, Great Director for the Willmore Wilderness have many ARIA Awards for best Band, North, Kicking Horse, and many Foundation guided the production team Vocalist, Album, Single, and Song. other production companies. Film and as they edited the first documentary, We were also fortunate to be able video shows have included Bye Bye Long Road Home. to hire Dave Martineau who did all Blues, Due South, The Diviners, The X It was the team’s first time the pre-production sound. Dave, a Files, Jake and the Kid, Kung Fu - The working together and it didn’t take resident of Brule is a singer, songwriter, Legend Continues, Lonesome Dove, long for the synergy to develop. Long producer and multi-instrumentalist. Medicine River, Moccasin Flats, North Road Home was the end result. It is His musical proficiency has resulted in of 60, Ordeal in the Arctic, The Outer a HD documentary that focuses on two nominations for Pedal Steel Player Limits, Pigeons and Doves, and more. the history of the formation of Jasper of the Year in the Canadian Country He has two Junos under his belt for National park. The story features Music Association Awards. A native work with Long John Baldry and The a fourteen-day return trip of the Albertan and well-known session McDades. descendants of six families who were player/performer, he has provided There was no second choice though evicted from the Park in 1909. The instrumental as well as vocal tracks on when it came to finding a narrator. Ken forty-five minute production featured numerous recordings across western Groat was the number one man to a Centennial Commemorative Canada. Dave has performed over the provide professional narrations. His Journey in 2009—the long road home years with people such as Tommy Banks, roots run deep in the Canadian Rockies after one hundred years. Stories were The Edmonton Symphony Orchestra, for more than two hundred years. shared through the voices of the Ian Tyson, Crystal Gayle, kd lang, Laura Ken has more than five generations descendants as they revealed their Vinson, Tommy Hunter, Ronnie Prophet, of knowledge and experience behind fight to preserve traditions, culture Dick Damron and Wilf Carter. him. His leadership is invaluable, and and a way of life as Mountain Métis. Next, the Foundation had to he is an excellent spokesperson for the Producer/Director Susan enlist a post-production soundman. traditional knowledge, values and culture Feddema-Leonard decided that she We were very fortunate to bring of the eastern slopes. He has a unique wanted to get a second opinion on on board, Jerry Woolsey who has ability and is an outstanding narrator. the technical and artistic quality of over thirty-five years experience The production team needed an Long Road Home. She wanted to as a performing musician, engineer, expert to guide the overall process know if it would stand up to the producer and technician. Jerry has to ensure quality control. The Continued on Page 13 Willmore Wilderness Newsletter Page 12

Willmore Wilderness Join Our Membership - Foundation Find out about what’s happening in Willmore. Get the latest news, issues and developments! We will keep in touch with our members in an annual newsletter a registered charitable organization each January. We keep you up-to-date on important events and information. #89655 0308 RR001 Articles or letters to the editor are always welcome. Join today! Box 93 Grande Cache, Alberta T0E 0Y0 Canada A person may become a member by a favourable vote passed by a majority of Phone: 1-780-827-2696 voting members at a regular meeting of the Foundation, and upon payment of the Toll Free: 1-866-WILMORE fee. Written notification will be sent to accepted members with a membership Email: [email protected] card. The membership year runs from January 1 to December 31. Yearly Membership is as follows: Web Pages: WillmoreWilderness.com PeopleandPeaks.com • $25.00 Individual Membership Great Divide Consulting Inc., Publisher • $35.00 Family Membership Estella Cheverie, Editor • Life Time Membership $500.00 Brian Bildson, Regular Columnist • Corporate Membership $100.00 Mark Engstrom, Regular Columnist

A person may become a member company by a favourable vote passed by a majority of members at a regular meeting of the Foundation, and upon payment of the fee. name Written notification will be sent to accepted members with a membership card. address $25.00 per year. Life Time Membership is $500.00 city Corporate Membership is $100.00 per year. The membership year runs from Jan 1 to Dec 1. Annual General Meeting in June of each year. postal code/zip An independent newsletter published in December & June. country ADVERTISING RATES: full page ad B & W - $295.00 full page colour - $500.00 telephone 1/2 page ad B & W - $145.00 1/4 page ad B & W - $80.00 1/8 page ad B & W - $45.00 fax

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We welcome feedback to this amount enclosed publication and any suggestions or ideas for future articles. year Contact our Editor at [email protected] date Page 13 Annual Edition - January 2011

M occasin Telegraph by Susan Feddema-Leonard, continued from Page 11 technical challenges of HD television. The documentaries will also be Municipalities in the near future, She decided to email one of her marketed to television, both nationally promoting Alberta’s best-kept instructors, Michael Brown, who has and internationally. secret—Willmore Wilderness Park. received over forty international film There is some anticipation that People & Peaks Productions will detail festival and industry awards, including People & Peaks Productions has a strong the majesty and beauty of Alberta’s three Emmys from five nominations. potential to have huge spin-off effects Rockies, along with the historic values, She hoped for some honest feedback. for the entire economic region. The culture and traditions. Michael is a busy man and Susan Foundation’s film production company The Transition to Traditions was very pleased when he emailed is in the beginning phases of building initiative is breathing a new life back a response. Hel stated, “I think regional partnerships to promote the force into the mountain community your film is really interesting and does a eastern slopes of Alberta through and business sector, so that there great job of telling a story from the inside. international tourism initiatives. is a new generation of activity. We The cinematography, sound and technical Many people do not know thank the Government of Alberta’s aspects are impressive.” Michael went that Willmore Wilderness Park is Rural Community Adaptation Grant on to give her some ideas on how her Improvement District #25. The Program, Alberta Agriculture and team could make productions for a Willmore Wilderness Foundation is Rural Development, and to MLA wider audience. He provided some tips the steward of Willmore Wilderness Robin Campbell for their vision and and tricks to make future films stronger. Park and is actively maintaining its belief in this exciting and unique Susan was elated with his comments. infrastructure, as well as marketing project. People & Peaks Productions will be and promoting the Rocky Mountain For more information go to provided to the educational system, so playground. The Foundation intends http://www.PeopleandPeaks.com or that local youth can learn more about to be sitting at the table with http://www.WillmoreWilderness.com. local history, culture and traditions. other Improvement Districts and

Marvin (Red) Creighton by Jim Babala - continued from Page 9

I had a great time talking about the At the time I visited him, Red was this would be his last winter as he didn’t good old days with Red, and as I had eighty-two years old and his mind was expect to be around for another one. recently returned from New Zealand, we very keen and active. His memory could I looked at Red and said, “Hell, Red, had something else in common to talk not have been better, even as a young you’ll be here next fall and we’ll cook up a about. I had taken red deer, fallow deer man. His health was failing. He had a feed of halibut and salmon. You take care, and chamois. Red had made a trip to New severe calcium deficiency and was just and I’ll see you then.” Zealand in the late 1940s with Colonel recovering from a broken arm. His bones Red invited me to spend the night Howard. The colonel had hunted in New were so fragile that as he went to throw with him, but I had promised friends in Zealand on different occasions and was out an old portable TV set, his arm bone Edson I would join them on a deer hunt, very impressed with the numbers of snapped. as I still was hunting for a trophy mule game animals there. He had talked with As Red told me, “Jim, it’s hell to deer. I left, telling Red I would see him the government officials there about starting get old when your mind wants to do next October. a hunting and outfitting service for visiting something but your body can’t.” non-resident hunters. He had made a trip Red said, “I hope so, but don’t bet on it, with Red to New Zealand for this purpose, I have seen many old people who have Jim, as there’s not much left in this old hide.” had a hard time remembering things, but but Red decided against starting a business I thought of this as I drove to Edson. who were fine physically. Red’s case was there. As Red put it, there was too much Red contracted pneumonia and died in the the opposite. His mind was sharp as a damn government red tape, bureaucracy Hinton Hospital early March—another tack, but his body was worn out. While and money problems controlled by the of Alberta’s great guides, outfitters, and we were visiting, Red commented that New Zealand Government. outdoorsmen gone. Willmore Wilderness Newsletter Page 14 Grizzly Findings 2010 Grizzly Bear Survey Report Synopsis by Bazil Leonard and Jenn Houlihan

The Willmore Wilderness Nate Webb, the Provincial Carnivore grizzlies appear to be doing fine. Foundation started the Grizzly Bear Specialist with Alberta Sustainable We have collected a large image Survey to help achieve an accurate Resources Development (ASRD). database, which can differentiate population census in Alberta. This All of Jenn’s data is sent to Nate between bears that have been is the third year that the Foundation Webb and placed into the Provincial spotted in the same area. Jenn will has been running the survey. It Database. In an e-mail to Jenn be putting together a PowerPoint of is sponsored by the Alberta Fish Houlihan dated August 3, 2010, Nate all of the 2010 images, which will be and Game Association (AFGA). stated “Ultimately, we’ll need to put shown at our conventions. We will Wild Sheep Foundation: Alberta the Willmore Foundation grizzly bear be giving copies of the PowerPoint Chapter (WSF), and the Willmore sightings into this format in order to CDs to AFGA and WSF to show our Wilderness Foundation. Because load it into our system, which then appreciation for their sponsorship. of the partnership, we were able makes the info readily available to all It is interesting to note that bears to advertise full-page and full-color ASRD staff in the entire province. We have been reported as far south as ads in every issue of Alberta Bow can do this here in Edmonton, or if the Montana Border and spotted Hunter’s Association (ABA), Alberta you have the time, I can explain to you as far west as the Alberta-British Trapper’s Association (ATA), and the how you can load your data directly Columbia Border. They have been Alberta Fish and Game Association into these files, or transfer it from your seen as far north as High Level and (AFGA). We were able to advertise database into this one.” Jenn is really as far east as the Whitecourt area. half-page full-color ads in Alberta excited about working with Nate, and One interesting set of images we Outdoorsmen Magazine. Our the public will be getting a much more have shows grizzly bears walking right advertising campaign has proven to be comprehensive grizzly bear census. through the town of Cranbrook, B.C. positive, as we have had many more The following represents some of One news report detailed how a bear grizzly bear sightings this year. the key points that Jenn gathered in walked right through Canmore, AB— Three years ago some of the the 2010 Grizzly Bear Survey. in broad day light. scientists were reporting as few as The survey to date has calculated In October there was a report thirty bears north of Highway 16. Our five hundred and seventy-five sightings of a bear disturbing cows in the staff couldn’t believe this unbelievably from February to November. We Dovercourt area north of Caroline. A low count and wondered what planet expect one hundred or so more bear claimed a dead cow as his own. the scientists were from. In the sightings by the end of the reporting The bear had been seen in that area Grande Cache area, grizzlies were period (Dec 31). The reason we do not almost every night. One other bear live-trapped in the school yard at have all the sightings in from everyone killed two miniature breeding donkeys Susa Creek. They were also reported is because most of the outfitters and on a woman’s property just west of to Fish and Wildlife as being on the guides are hunting until the end of Grande Prairie in May. Officers told Muskeg Co-op, Joachim Enterprises November. They usually phone or her that the bear had been trapped Co-op, and many other local locations. e-mail their reports in December. and moved out of Alberta into The bears were becoming more The number of grizzly sightings northern B.C. last year after killing brazen and were coming into many has doubled compared to last year’s another miniature donkey near Sundre. of the local outfitter camps. The survey. So far eighteen sows have been Grizzlies decided to sample some pigs Foundation decided to “take the bull spotted with triplets, equalling fifty- north of Cochrane in the fall of 2009. I by the horns” and conduct a survey. four cubs. Thirty-five sows have also guess they had quite a feed. Jenn Houlihan has spent the been observed with twins, equalling There have been reports of grizzly entire year working on the Grizzly seventy cubs. This data does not bears charging people in the Sheep Bear Survey. She works closely with include sows with one cub. Momma Creek area near Mountain Aire Page 15 Annual Edition - January 2011

This buffalo was spotted in April at 7:00am in Yellowstone National Park.. The photographer described the sound of a “horse and carriage” The buffalo was apparently scalded by a geyser at Yellowstone. The grizzly was chasing the buffalo and was quickly gaining on him. We have a newspaper article and link with many other images that accompany this story. For more information email Jenn Houlihan at [email protected]

Lodge, Willmore Wilderness Park, his feet. He quickly started to stomp Edson, and Lethbridge areas. A man on his tree stand and yell. The bear was attacked on the Berland Road dropped down and ran out of sight. north of Hinton in June. Luckily his The man quickly got off the stand and dog distracted the bear long enough started walking to his truck about an so that he could get away with only a hour away. He claimed this to be the bite mark in his boot and a fairly small longest hour of his life. puncture wound in his foot. We have The survey indicates that there We live in a land the official report that was issued by has been an increase of bears showing West Fraser Hinton Wood Products where there are little fear of humans. It is evident that on this incident. the bear population is steadily growing. both predators and In October at Kvass Flats in Bears are adapting to new habitat and prey. Our ancestors the Willmore Wilderness Park, an prey—donkeys, cows, and pigs and are experienced guide/hunter came across getting more aggressive towards humans. were smart enough a bear that was moving an elk carcass. More people are participating and The bear acted very aggressive towards to maintain their role are aware of the Willmore Wilderness the man. A week later two hunters Grizzly Bear Survey, but we believe that were on the flats and they came across as the top predator, there are many more grizzly sightings what they believed to be a bear’s cache. that have not been reported to us. but with lack of There were skulls and carcasses where the grizzly had buried them in a pit In conclusion, we live in a land management, the about six feet in diameter. where there are both predators and prey. Our ancestors were smart grizzly has lost his Near Hinton there was a report of enough to maintain their role as a man hunting deer in his tree stand. fear of man and is the top predator, but with lack of A grizzly bear came sniffing around management, the grizzly has lost and caught his scent. The bear took increasingly becoming his fear of man and is increasingly off. About an hour later the man went becoming the dominant predator. the dominant predator. to have his lunch and a bathroom break. Well instead of climbing down We would like to thank AFGA the tree stand he just went off the and Wild Sheep Foundation: Alberta side of the tree stand—which was Chapter for their ongoing support. The probably a smart choice on his part. 2011 Grizzly Bear Survey promises to He looked down and saw this big bear be better yet—with the support of the standing below him with its nose at public and their sightings. Willmore Wilderness Foundation Page 16 Motion 507 – Willmore Wilderness Park - April 12, 2010

5:07 Mr. Campbell moved: those who are not experienced and get Be it resolved that the Leg- themselves in trouble. islative Assembly urge the govern- This is a true wilderness area ment to not bring forward changes fraught with dangers for those not properly equipped or experienced in to the Willmore Wilderness Park outdoor activities. In my own experience Act which would restrict traditional of over 25 years of guiding, I could spend land uses such as outfitting, trapping, the whole afternoon talking about people hunting, and fishing. who’ve had to be rescued or supported because they were not outfitted properly Mr. Campbell: Thank you, Mr. Speaker. or were outside of their capabilities. It’s my pleasure today to talk about Motion The Willmore is one of those areas, Mr. 507. The Willmore wilderness area is in my Speaker, that can provide that. riding just north of Grande Cache, and it This area is also located on the encompasses over 4,600 square kilometers Continental Divide. The divide provides of land. The purpose of this motion is to many streams and rivers that supply ensure that the government of Alberta water to the Peace and Athabasca rivers. continues to recognize as is the Willmore Other rivers within the park are the Wilderness Park Act. This act promotes Sheep, Jackpine, Smoky, Berland, Sulphur, the management and conservation of Muskeg, and Wildhay. In many of these resources within the Willmore wilderness rivers and streams within the park are park and provides the legislative assurance Rocky Mountain whitefish, rainbow trout, of traditional activities like outfitting, and bull trout. trapping, hunting, and fishing. Activities Mr. Speaker, this park was like hunting and fishing are key elements created in 1959, when local residents The Willmore of conservation, and it is those who were concerned about the amount of Wilderness Act participate in these activities who are the roads that the oil and gas sectors were conservationists. By continuing to support developing through the region. Norman and Motion 507 their activities, as Motion 507 urges, the Willmore, who at the time was the MLA ensures that future Willmore wilderness park will continue to for Edson, lobbied for and eventually be preserved for future generations. had the area declared a wilderness park generations Mr. Speaker, I think it’s important where trapping and fishing would be will be able to use to note that Grande Cache became the permitted; however, all motor vehicles home for a number of aboriginal families were restricted from the area. The only Willmore Wilderness Park, in 1905 and 1906 after they were asked to permitted transportation is by foot, just like the mountain men leave Jasper national park, and today, you horse, or bicycle. These regulations were know, a hundred years later, many of the reflected in the Willmore act. of yesteryear. descendants of these families continue to Mr. Speaker, the current hunt, fish, and outfit in the Willmore. situation we face is that Alberta The Willmore is still a pristine Tourism, Parks and Recreation along Thank you Robin Campbell wilderness area but does have some pres- with Parks Canada and B.C. Parks have sures. The mountain pine beetle has the been considering a new nomination for capability of destroying the old-growth UNESCO world heritage status of the Photo by: forests that line the river valleys within Canadian Rocky Mountain parks, which Susan Feddema-Leonard. the 4,600 square kilometers. could include the Willmore wilderness Mr. Speaker, this is an area that is park along with other protected areas for the most part self-governed. Of course, that are adjacent to the current UNESCO SRD patrols through fish and wildlife offic- designation. I quote from the Alberta ers and parks has their officers patrolling, Tourism, Parks and Recreation website. but it’s the people who use the landscape on a regular basis that understand its true Alberta Parks is in early discussions with value and keep its integrity intact. It is Parks Canada and B.C. Parks on the these people that clean the trails and look possibility of expanding the current Canadian to see that those using the area do so in Rocky Mountain Parks World Heritage Site. a responsible manner and at times help Should the expansion have clear benefits, the Page 17 Annual Edition - January 2011

project committee will consult with the public, there has been unanimous consent by the The other thing that concerns affected stakeholders, communities, First people in the Grande Cache area to leave me, Mr. Speaker, with UNESCO’s Nations and Métis, and government depart- the Willmore as it is. I’ve also attended a designation is buffer zones. Wherever ments in both provinces before proceeding number of functions, Mr. Speaker, across necessary for the proper conservation with submission of a re-nomination package Alberta put on by the Willmore wilder- of the property an adequate buffer zone to UNESCO. ness foundation, where people have should be provided. For the purpose continued to say: “Leave the park the way of the effective protection of the Parks Canada states: it is. Let us be stewards of that land. We nominated property a buffer zone is an use it, we know what we’re doing, and we area surrounding the nominated property Four other contiguous protected areas on the have to look after it as it should be.” which has complementary legal and/or Alberta side would also merit consideration Mr. Speaker, I think that when customary restrictions placed on its use in a re-nomination of this site [the Canadian you look at the UNESCO sites, there are and development to give an added layer Rocky Mountain Parks World Heritage Site]. a number of things that I have concerns of protection to the property. These include the Ghost River and White over. One is the protection and manage- Mr. Speaker, when you look at the size Goat Wilderness’s (IUCN category I), Peter ment. Protection and management of of the Willmore wilderness area, it’s Lougheed Provincial Park, and the Willmore world heritage property should ensure 4,600 square kilometers. When you get Wilderness Park. All of these offer high qual- that the outstanding universal value outside of the Willmore area, especially ity habitat, equivalent and complementary in and the conditions of integrity and/or to the east and the south, you’re into value to the existing World Heritage site. The authenticity at the time of inscription are Grande Cache and the eastern foothills inclusion of these six additional contiguous maintained or enhanced in the future. All of the Rockies. One of the important provincial protected areas would result in properties inscribed on the world herit- economic developments that is hap- a 13-park World Heritage complex and an age list must have adequate long-term pening across this country now is shale approximate 25% size increase [in area]. legislative, regulatory, institutional, and/or gas. Shale gas deposits are prominent traditional protection and management to within the Grande Cache and area south Mr. Speaker, I think it’s important to ensure their safeguarding. This protection towards Hinton, and I can tell you that understand what the Willmore Wilder- should also include adequately delineated companies like EnCana, Talisman, CNRL ness Park Act says. boundaries. Similarly, state parties should are all working towards developing those demonstrate adequate protection at areas. Those areas are also a major In this Act, the national, regional, municipal, and/ economic boom to this province. As we (a) “land” means land of the Crown in or traditional level for the nominated see conventional gas prices start to decline right of Alberta; property. and we see oil prices up and down, we need (b) “Park” means the Willmore Wilderness Mr. Speaker, you know, I’ve spent the shale gas. Also, we have coal mines and Park established by this Act. some time dealing with UNESCO sites, coal mine deposits all along the eastern Under part 3 of the act, Use of Park, it states: being that I live in and represent West slopes of the Rockies. Yellowhead. I also live in Jasper national 5:10 The Park is dedicated to the use of the park, which is a world heritage site. I can If you look at a buffer zone, Mr. people of Alberta for their benefit, education talk to you about when we were involved Speaker, what would be considered adequate? and enjoyment, subject to this Act and the in the Cheviot mine and trying to get that Is it one mile? Is it five miles? Is it 10 miles? regulations, and shall, by the management, mine going south of Hinton, which was an Is it 20 miles? In the Grande Cache area the conservation and protection of its natural expansion of the Cardinal River coal mine. town of Grande Cache butts right up against resources and by the preservation of its natural I can remember the letter I got from the Willmore Wilderness Park. You have Foothills beauty, be maintained for the enjoyment of UNESCO world heritage people saying Forest Products that, if they were within future generations. that the Cardinal River mine should not go the buffer zone, would go under. That’s 265 Also, part 4 of the act says under ahead because of its proximity to a world people unemployed in the town of Grande industrial activities: heritage site. That mine is in production Cache. You’ve got Grande Cache Coal, which today, employs over 300 people, and is butts up right next to Willmore wilderness No person may conduct any industrial one of the main economies of the town area. That would be over 500 people out of activities, including, but not limited to, mining, of Hinton. It is also a wildlife sanctuary. work in Grande Cache. You have ConocoPhil- geological and geophysical explorations, water There are grizzly bears, there are elk, lips, EnCana, CNRL, Talisman, you know, that management, hydro-electric power and pulp there are deer, there are moose, there are employ hundreds of people in the Grande and paper mills, saw mills and other forestry wolves, and there are cougars all within Cache area. related industries, within the Park. that mine site. Sheep: actually, people pay I think that the park and the act up to $250,000 for the minister’s permit as it stands now will serve the province to shoot bighorn sheep, which come off ... continued on page 26 of Alberta well. I know that in my riding that property of Cardinal River. Willmore Wilderness Newsletter Page 18

TALES AND TR AILS IN THE WILDERNESS – by Ethel Miller Chapter Seven: The Caribou Hunt

At the beginning of September, In the late 1960s, we decided we daylight didn’t arrive too early, but would try to get a caribou on one Charlie and Carl were up early getting of our fall hunting trips. During the the horses fed, saddled and packed up summers when we had been out in for our trip. We planned to put in a Willmore Wilderness Park, we had pretty good day’s travel and were on often seen caribou in the areas we the trail in good time that morning. traveled. At that time we only had The four pack horses traveled well three horses. We planned on being out together and had been down that road for a week in early September, so we many times. Our pack horse Joe got borrowed Carl’s four pack horses and put into his place every time he tried rigging. That gave us five pack horses to change his spot in the string of pack and lots of space to pack a good supply horses. I brought up the rear and had of food, a stove and tent. At that time to keep an eye on the horses to make we did not have our sail silk tent, but sure no ropes came undone or that Carl had a huge 12’ x 12’ silk pyramid any packs slipped. But this day, even tent that he told us to take, along though the day was hot— probably with a stove. The weather was really twenty degrees—we made good time warm, and the leaves were all changing and got to the head of the Hay (River) colour—just a beautiful fall. Charlie got Campground where we set up camp. All of a sudden, a caribou license along with the usual It was just a perfect day, warm but no Charlie pulled Casey to elk and moose. I just got a deer license flies around, and a mild breeze was and didn’t bother getting a caribou blowing. The meadow out from the a halt and motioned to one, as we doubted that we would be campground was knee-deep with grass. lucky enough to come across a herd. From the camp you could look me to look towards the A couple years earlier, I had taken a out and see where the horses were, Hunter Trainer’s course and carried but with the grass so good and water north. He could see a a thirty-thirty in the scabbard on my nearby, they didn’t wander. They were horse. Charlie always carried a bigger caribou coming in our all hobbled or on picket ropes, so gun, a model 95 Winchester 30 US we had a relaxing time once we had direction, but it was caliber in his scabbard. the tent and stove up. We gathered quite a distance away. Carl helped us haul the horses a good pile of wood but doubted out to Rock Lake on August 31st and that we would need to use much of We had never hunted spent the evening with us around the it, seeing it was so mild. I took a few for caribou before and camp fire relating many tales of his pictures around the campsite and out trips out in the bush. He had brought towards the mountains where there were not too sure how along his sleeping bag and decided to was not a cloud in the sky. stay the night so he could help Charlie During the night I woke up. It alert they were, but the pack up the horses in the morning was very quiet and felt quite chilly and get us away in good time. It was wind was in the north in the tent, but after a few minutes, a warm evening, so we didn’t pitch I just sank farther into my sleeping a tent. Charlie and Carl just slept in so was in our favour. bag and drifted off to sleep. What a their sleeping bags on the ground, but surprise in the morning—the ground I chose to sleep in my sleeping bag in Photo by Susan Feddema-Leonard. was covered with snow! Clouds were one of the trucks. hanging low on the mountains west Page 19 Annual Edition - January 2011

of us and everything was wet outside. he would have spooked the caribou. Charlie pack-saddled him and once What a difference from yesterday. We By this time I was not sure where again headed out to where the animal were glad we had put a pile of wood Charlie was or how close he had was. Shortly before we got in sight inside the tent and had the stove set got to the animal. But nothing doing, of the kill, Charlie got off his horse up. It was not snowing anymore but Sandy gave another whinny, and to and loaded his gun. We approached was very overcast, and there was my surprise, I could see the caribou cautiously just in case a bear had quite a drop in the temperature. coming towards us. It was snowing come across the carcass while we After we had breakfast, we pretty hard by then. The caribou was were away. It was still snowing hard checked on the horses. They were all half trotting, and every now and then, and no tracks were visible. Much to okay and eating away, but the picket he would grab a mouthful of grass as my relief, there was no bear there, ropes and hobbles were wet and dirty. he approached. and everything was the same as we We decided to take Charlie’s horse About this time though, Charlie had left it. The pack horse never Casey and my horse Sandy and go out had him in his gun sight and let fire. flinched as the animal was loaded on towards the mountains to see if we The caribou dropped to the ground. his back, but my horse didn’t care for could see any game. We left the pack There were a couple more coming the smell of blood. He did a bunch of horses hobbled in the meadow and behind him, and they seemed to be snorting when I first tried to mount headed out. curious and still kept coming closer to him because I still had blood on my We went up towards Persimmon see what was happening. Because I hands from loading the meat. Creek but had not been on the trail very didn’t have a license, I was not able to Once we got back to camp, we long before it started to snow again, bag one. I still had the horses in tow, unsaddled the horses and put them and the clouds socked in around the and they seemed to be more afraid of out in the meadow to graze before mountain tops. It was difficult at times the gunshot than the caribou were. starting to cook supper. Darkness to see just where we were heading. I tied up the horses and helped came early that time of the year, and All of a sudden, Charlie pulled Charlie as he skinned, gutted and with the snow still falling, it was darker Casey to a halt and motioned to me cleaned up the animal. It was getting even earlier. We always took along to look towards the north. He could bitterly cold on the bare hands. As we some reading material on our trips, but see a caribou coming in our direction, worked on the animal, I was thinking because we just had a candle to read but it was quite a distance away. We more about the cold than how I was by, we didn’t read too long at nights. had never hunted for caribou before using the knife, and the first thing I We stayed at the camp another and were not too sure how alert they knew, I had taken a slice off my finger. day and rode out again the next day, were, but the wind was in the north It bled for a while, but shortly after but didn’t see a sign of any animals. So so was in our favour. I was not sure if it was my blood or the following day, we packed up and We both got off our horses. from the caribou, as my hands were came back in with our caribou meat. Charlie grabbed his gun out of the covered with warm blood! Caribou are It was considered a successful hunt. scabbard and told me to hang onto pretty small animals, but the meat has Casey and get back out of sight with to be the best tasting wild meat there The final part of a story by the horses. He would try to keep out is—at least in my opinion. There has Ethel Miller (deceased) printed by of sight but get closer to the caribou. not been a season on them for quite permission of her husband, Charlie Miller (since deceased in 2007) So I took the horses and got back a few years now, but if they are all as behind some scrub and rocks. Sandy curious as those were, it’s no wonder was always alert to things going on that they were fast disappearing. around him, and all of a sudden he Once we got it dressed out, we let out a big whinny as he spotted decided to leave it there and get a the caribou. I gave his head a jerk and pack horse to bring it back into camp. tried to keep him quiet as I was sure We picked up one of the pack horses, Willmore Wilderness Newsletter Page 20 Willmore Wanderings - Lucky 13 By Mark Engstrom

October, 2010. I shifted on my have never been hunted. Over those seat as a rock dug into my backside. I thirteen years I have been successful in had been sitting in the same spot near taking several non trophy sheep (ewes), the top of a mountain for the last but never brought home a ram. two hours, with a Swarovski spotting I did shoot one though. My first scope on a tripod in front of me. It year of sheep hunting, thirteen long was aimed at a bighorn ram who lay years ago. I had a full curl, heavily below me 240 yards away, down a broomed old ram lined up. He and steep mountainside. He had his back three smaller rams stood facing me at to me, facing to my left and looking one hundred yards. It was very windy, down over the valley. There were but I felt good when I pulled the other sheep with him, a few rams, and trigger with my crosshairs on the old some ewes who had recently fed over giants chest. I saw a ram drop on the into the rams, mysteriously appearing spot. The joy of killing my first ram out of no where a half hour before. I soon turned to horror though. As I had watched these rams from this walked up, instead of the giant, one of spot, and from another spot around the smaller rams lay dead. He wasn’t the bend in the mountain earlier in even a legal ram as he fell just short the day for another two hours. None of the required 4/5th curl. I don’t of the sheep had seen me during the know what happened. This ram had four hour wait. Suddenly he got up been hit in the horn, from the side, from his bed, turned and started and the bullet deflected downward feeding from my left to right, showing into his head, with no exit, killing him me the right side of his head through instantly. Windy, yes. Buck (or ram) the spotter. I quickly determined fever, probably. Bad shot, for sure. No his right horn passed for the matter, I was now in trouble. I’ll admit required 4/5th curl, and a couple a few options went through my head minutes later a single shot from as I sat by the short sheep. Not all of my 270wsm dropped him on the them were of the noble variety. But spot. He slowly rolled over once, I knew deep down what I was going then twice, then picking up speed to do, and that’s how I ended up at he rolled down the steep draw he the local Fish and Wildlife office with was in, kicking up rocks and dust the illegal ram. I received a fine, and forfeited my trophy sheep tag. I was as he went. Finally he disappeared lucky not to lose my hunting license. around a corner behind some This was a defining moment in my poplar and fir trees growing low on sheep hunting career. the mountain. Years of searching In the years that followed, I for “the” ram were over! became a sheep hunting addict. I I began bighorn sheep hunting love the country they inhabit, and thirteen years ago. Most years I have the bighorn sheep itself is, to me, hunted them for at least two weeks, the pinnacle of hunting in Alberta. and often much longer. I’ve covered Every year I would prepare, plan and much of the Willmore Wilderness in look forward to that first trip of the search of the elusive bighorn, searching hunting season which is the bighorn for old rams in hidden drainages that sheep opener in late August. I keep Page 21 Annual Edition - January 2011

Mark Engstrom on a Sheep Hunting Trip in Willmore Wilderness Park in October 2010

Photos courtesy of Mark Engstrom a few horses, I think mainly so I can goat including 2008 when I was lucky caped and quartered my quarry, taking use them for sheep hunting. I do ride enough to draw one of the rare tags, until well after dark. He will now hold them lots through the spring and and spent those three years chasing a place of honor among all my trophies. summer in the Willmore Wilderness, goats instead of sheep. I’d like to thank my friend Larry Clegg always watching for sheep, and in Back to October 13th,2010. for being there with me on this trip, I particular rams. Thirteen years after killing my first enjoy being on the trail with you, they Now, being as I had shot a short sheep, I finally killed another, this don’t come much tougher than you. Larry sheep, I was very careful and picky time legal, ram. That’s why I call him is always happy, with a smile and quick on what type of ram I would shoot. Lucky 13. After he rolled out of sight, wit, there’s nothing that will faze him. I I passed up a few legal ones, lamb I laid my spotting scope and rifle on enjoy all the knowledge and stories that tipped rams that were just barely legal, my backpack, leaving them there, and he is always willing to offer. On this trip, “squeakers” as they are called. There headed down the mountain with only he endured what started out as a small was no way I was going to sweat it my knife. I found the ram caught on sore that looked like a tick bite or pimple out in the Fish and Wildlife office some downed timber just into the on his shin, and turned into a raging again as an officer put the square on trees growing low on the steep slope. infection. He stuck it out until the end, a set of horns to see if it was legal Using my trekking pole I confirmed he even though it almost killed him. Thanks or not. I also missed a gorgeous full was legal. Thirteen years of effort was also to my brother Toe, and Traci, who curl ram, misjudging the distance rewarded with this fine old warrior rode out after I took this ram, to bring and shooting under him. I bought a of a ram, and I let out a big sigh of horse shoes and shoeing tools that I was rangefinder right after that hunt. The relief. Ten and a half years old, he had in need of. Toe and I have been on many years passed, and I remained snake good mass, his horn tips broomed sheep trips over the years, I wish he had bit. I had a run of three years where back, legal on his right, a fine trophy. been there for this one. Next year is I knew people drawn for mountain Thankful to say the least, I respectfully your turn brother!

Thanks to the Wild Sheep Foundation: Alberta Chapter for supporting the 2010 Grizzly Bear Survey Willmore Wilderness Newsletter Page 22

Jenn’s Journal - Twelve-Day Trail Clearing Expedition by Jenn Houlihan crew consisted of Bazil Leonard, outfitter; Susan Feddema- …Was supposed to be twenty- Leonard, cook/film maker/nurse; one but you know how mountain Dan Hallock, main wrangler/trail weather can be .... hand; Angeen Hallock, wrangler; I had the pleasure of cooking Banjo Hallock, chainsaw man; for an eight-man crew for twelve Tyler Hallock, chainsaw man; days in one of the most beautiful Eli Hallock, trail hand; and Jenn places that I have ever seen, the Houlihan (myself), cook. We were Willmore Wilderness Park. Our trailing with twenty-four horses journey started at Victor Lake and one Daisy Dog. on September 5, 2010. We rode I have a lot of good memories seven hours from Victor Lake to of this trip but one stands out our home of the next five days, the most. About four days into Big Grave Camp. For the first part our adventure, Bazil, Sue, Angeen of the trip, we had the comfort and I went to scout the trail from of the Sulphur River Patrol Rocky Pass to Porcupine Lick. I Cabin—very comfortable, I must was riding my freshly-started wild say. On the first day, we arrived at Jenn Houlihan, Administrative Assistant mare Mildred. I had no problems Willmore Wilderness Foundation Big Grave shortly after nightfall. riding or working with her. It was photo by Susan Feddema-Leonard I scrambled to get a fire made a pretty rough ride for a young so I could cook for the hungry horse considering we had to crew. Bazil quickly instructed the plough through muskeg, beaver boys to unpack and unsaddle our dams, and thick over-grown trails. horses. The horses were sent to Well, Murphy’s Law certainly graze on the Big Grave Flats. applied here. I decided not to For the next several days, bring my rain gear, and it rained I explored and enjoyed my cats and dogs! To make matters second trail-clearing expedition worse, the rain turned to snow. with Sue and Bazil. I saw the On the way back, we came wonderful sculptures of the across a log that had fallen mountains and valleys, and the across the trail. The other horses splendid paintings of the sunrises jumped it. When it came our turn and sunsets. The Willmore is to jump the log, I went flying definitely a place that everyone forward and landed on Mildred’s should see. I feel blessed to have neck. Bazil stopped in front of me spent time there and am looking and let me use his saddle horse forward to many more years. I to push myself back into the plan on traveling within the saddle. Sue was shocked that I boundaries of this magnificent didn’t fall off and said, “You got a jewel for years to come. pretty good horse if you can land We call our trail crews on her neck without her freaking Willmore Warriors. Our eight-man out.” I would have to agree with Page 23 Annual Edition - January 2011

Willmore Warriors Trail Clearing Crew September 2010 from left to right: Danny Hallock Bazil Leonard Banjo Hallock Eli Hallock Tyler Hallock

Other Willmore Warriors include: Angeen Hallock Jenn Houlihan Susan Feddema-Leonard

Photo by Jenn Houlihan

Sue on that one. Mildred never I really enjoyed my stay at such a perfect winter’s day. flinched, but instead let me get Porcupine Lick. On the first This trip was a wonderful back on and try again. I’m so morning, we woke up to six experience that I will cherish proud of that little wild mare, inches of fresh, sticky snow. forever. Waking up to a Willmore which I had started earlier in the Angeen my tent mate and I sunrise is something that I will year at a Willmore Wilderness woke up after our tent was never forget. I encourage everyone Foundation clinic. flattened like a pancake because to experience the deep connection This experience has taught of the snow. Our surroundings with this pristine mountain me that no matter how warm it were white—our camp was landscape. Willmore Wilderness is and how blue the sky is, NEVER white—everything was white. Park is something that should live forget your rain gear in camp. You couldn’t walk out of the cook on—keep it wild and free. tent for more than ten minutes You just may end up coming Remember, if you fall off—get without becoming covered in back from your ride with a cup of up—dust off—get right back on! water in each boot. snow. It was nice to wake up to

Thank you Alberta Fish & Game Association for your support with the 2010 Grizzly Bear Survey Willmore Wilderness Newsletter Page 24

WILLMORE WILDERNESS PRESERVATION AND HISTORICAL FOUNDATION BALANCE SHEET AS AT DECEMBER 31, 2009

2009 2008 $ $ ASSETS Current Cash 150,440.67 12,318.76 Accounts Receivable 37,320.88 8,749.00 Prepaid Expense 6,890.96 6,890.96 Security Deposits 200.00 4,025.00 194,852.51 31,983.72 Capital Assets Building 287,000.00 0.00 Equipment 11,996.31 10,561.31 Office Equipment 6,307.53 8,419.24 Camera, Video & Film Equipment 24,858.16 0.00 Computer 23,223.85 23,223.85 Furniture & Fixtures 2,450.00 2,450.00 355,835.85 44,654.40 Less: Accumulated Amortization 8,658.97 8,658.97 347,176.88 35,995.43

542,029.39 67979.15

LIABILITIES & EQUITY

Current Liabilities Accounts Payable 9,006.86 6,100.77

Long Term Liabilities ATB Mortgage Payable 148,583.44 0.00

157,590.30 6,100.77

Equity Retained Earnings 384,439.09 61,878.38

542,029.39 67,979.15

Edson Shindig (DANCE) Grande Cache Gala featuring Laura Vinson & dance the night away with the TRUCKS March 5, 2011 Saturday, Feb 5, 2011 Mountain Métis Hall Royal Canadian Legion: Joe Wynn Live and Silent Auction Live and silent auction Roast Beef Buffet - $35.00 tickets. Banquet buffet - $50.00 tickets Doors open at 6 p.m. & dinner at 7 p.m. Doors open at 6 p.m. and dinner at 7 p.m. Page 25 Annual Edition - January 2011

WILLMORE WILDERNESS PRESERVATION AND HISTORICAL FOUNDATION STATEMENT OF EARNINGS FOR THE YEAR ENDING DECEMBER 31, 2009

2009 2008 $ $ REVENUE General Sales 977.07 1,430.85 Grants 541,050.00 31,220.82 Memberships 1,530.00 9,028.50 Book Sales 11,726.84 39,015.38 Donations 35,150.00 15,268.00 Fundraising Proceeds 107,671.41 157,302.91 Rental Income 1,200.00 0.00 Interest 64.77 24.81 699,370.09 253,291.27

OPERATING EXPENSES Accounting & Consulting 16,152.91 1,200.00 Advertising & Promotion 9,547.59 4,039.47 Donations 6,883.72 1,947.00 Fundraising Costs 73,382.93 103,161.78 Bank/Credit Card Charges & Fees 2,834.42 2,910.24 Insurance 2,154.00 650.00 License, Fees & Permits 2,405.13 555.00 Loan/Mortgage Interest 1,583.97 0.00 Supplies 9,154.15 11,000.48 Equipment & Trail Costs 191.61 1,370.08 Conventions, Banquets & Meetings 494.24 2,731.09 Training & Clinics 4,482.40 5,669.96 Office 16,567.89 13,432.01 Utilities 3,973.60 2,556.94 Property Taxes 6,519.22 4,256.03 Book & Film Production Costs 33,202.58 0.00 Telephone & Fax 3,549.77 2,975.19 Rent 6,287.50 28,700.00 Maintenance & Repairs 22,184.82 2,646.13 Travel 12,716.94 8,365.44 Wages & Benefits 38,647.49 40,257.11 Sub-Contracts 103,892.50 42,890.00 376,809.38 281,313.95

EARNINGS (LOSS) FROM OPERATIONS 322,560.71 -28,022.68

Grande Prairie Roundup & Audited May 18, 2010 People & Peaks Film Fest Y L Services Saturday April 9, 2011 Accountant - Yvonne Lambert Five Mile Agricultural Society Community Hall - Grande Prairie, AB Live and Silent Auction - $50.00 tickets. Doors open at 6 p.m. and dinner at 7 p.m. Schedule for the People & Peaks Film Fest TBA Willmore Wilderness Newsletter Page 26

Motion 507 – Willmore Wilderness Park - April 12, 2010

... continued from page 17 same area. Right now in Alberta we have over 350 parks and protected areas, yet The only thing that wouldn’t be only 40 of these have management plans. affected – and I don’t know if that’s true So for the Willmore wilderness park or not – would be the jail. We have a to be protected, the enforcement has federal institution in Grande Cache that to be there as well to ensure that the employs about 300 people. That would traditional usages, as the hon. member be the only economic employment in has pointed out, since the early 1900s are this community. Also, it would affect, maintained and protected. What we do you know, right down along the eastern need is oversight through a management slopes. plan, and we need the enforcement Mr. Campbell moved: Mr. Speaker, while I’m talking through combination and cross ministerial about the Willmore wilderness park, I’d co-operation between the ministries be remiss to also not talk about Y2Y, of Sustainable Resource Development which is Yellowstone to Yukon. These ar- and Tourism, Parks and Recreation, and Be it resolved that the eas also employ the eastern slopes. This we need also, obviously, co-operation is something that we as a government and through the Ministry of Environment to Legislative Assembly all our colleagues in government should ensure that the pristine and natural nature be aware of. Thank you, Mr. Speaker. of this area is preserved. urge the government The Deputy Speaker: The hon. Now, the hon. Member for West Member for Calgary-Varsity. Yellowhead pointed out what the act states. to not bring forward Mr. Chase: Thank you very much. I I would like to add to it. The Willmore want to applaud and support the hon. Wilderness Park Act also permits the changes to the Member for West Yellowhead for bring- Lieutenant Governor in Council to make ing forth this legislation. I will be voting regulations increasing or decreasing the Willmore Wilderness in favour of it, but I do have reservations size of the park. I hope there is never that I want to get on the record. First a thought of decreasing the size of the Park Act off, if we had the accomplishment of our park. Most importantly for myself and land-use framework, for which I want to the members of my caucus, it prohibits which would restrict offer a bouquet to our current finance industrial activity in the park, including but traditional land uses minister, the MLA for Foothills-Rocky not limited to mining, geological and geo- View, for getting the discussion going – if physical exploration, water management, such as outfitting, we actually had a land-use framework hydroelectric power, pulp and paper mills, bill in place with all its regulations, then sawmills, and other forest-related activities. trapping, hunting, this Willmore wilderness park, that’s the In other words, it keeps it at its historical subject of Motion 507, would be dealt purpose, which was the conservation and and fishing. with under designated land use. protection of its natural resources. At the same time I’d like to offer The point of this act is to allow a challenge to the Minister of Sustainable First Nations and Métis and, to a degree, Resource Development, the MLA for guiding outfitters to continue to practise Grande Prairie-Smoky, to follow up the their historically approved activities work that was begun by the hon. Member within the park. I understand, but I will for Foothills-Rocky View but has yet come from the other side of the debate, to be completed. With the sustainable about making it a world-protected site, resources network based on six water- because I believe that with the proper shed regions being the basis for land use, enforcement, that would potentially add I think a lot of the conflicts between land extra security to the area because there usage will be dealt with. would be a global standard in terms I’m hoping that at some point of the protection of this wilderness this government moves from the concept area. I do want to raise, however, some of multi-use to priority use. You know, concerns that were brought to us by the without going Roger Miller on you, there Alberta Wilderness Association concern- are certain activities, roller skating in ing Willmore Wilderness Park because a buffalo herd being one of them, that I want to have them on the record. you cannot do simultaneously in the Hopefully, this motion will address these Page 27 Annual Edition - January 2011

concerns. Willmore wilderness concerns: you limit the recreational experience. bringing forward this very interesting • A management plan that addresses key • Backcountry guardianship is almost topic that kind of hits near and dear to concerns for the Willmore, including wildlife, non-existent and few parks people know my heart as a practising forester in the watersheds, wilderness protection, fire the Willmore, except perhaps from aerial province of Alberta for many, many years. programs, trail system maintenance and overviews. It’s kind of interesting that we’ve always recreation is urgently needed. We talk about police feet on the set aside pieces of land in our province As I stated before, we have over beat. Well, we need people, conservation and around the world to protect although 350 parks and protected areas and very few officers and SRD, regularly patrolling this it was always poorly defined exactly what management plans to guarantee that they area along with the people that usually sit protect meant. Certainly, Alberta has a are kept in a maintained manner. I know on a regular basis and provide their input history and examples of protected areas. you can love a park to death, but in this and observation and their love turned Jasper and Banff are jewels of our national case the park, to some degree, has not into enforcement. parks system. Wood Buffalo park: we’ve been managed and enforced to the extent • Lack of fire has allowed the former excellent had protected areas for a very long time. that I believe it deserves. wildlife habitat of the area to become The discussion around protected Another concern that the Alberta overgrown with shrubbery and trees and poor areas and what they should be and what Wilderness Association brings forward: for ungulates in particular. Fire hazards are they provide and all those things was • Pressures for inappropriate resource also building to the point where conflagrations refined greatly over the years. Somewhere development such as commercial recreational may be supported once the area burns. A around the time that the United Nations use. Recreational developments including a program of controlled burns to create habitat released the Brundtland commission report, downhill ski operation, golf course and alpine and relieve fuel loads is important. there was a world-wide effort to start village, as well as new roadways for off-road Fire suppression is also nature talking about protection of ecosystems, vehicles have been proposed in and near suppression. functioning ecosystems, functioning popula- Willmore Wilderness Park. • Species at risk such as the grizzly and tions, those kinds of things. There was a Now, the hon. member talked mountain caribou are not receiving adequate mad rush, you know: Canada’s convention about a buffer zone, and hopefully that official attention. on biodiversity and those sorts of things. will be part of this motion because it’s These are the concerns, and We’ve talked about protected absolutely essential that we don’t have I believe they’re just concerns that the areas more and more. Somewhere along overlap and cross-purposing within this Alberta Wilderness Association has the line we’ve towed along this very old natural site. put forward. However, it is my belief concept that we can increase the level The Alberta Wilderness that by working with associations such of protection for a piece of land by being Association also has concerns over as the Alberta Wilderness Association, increasingly restrictive of its use. In some • commercial sales and inappropriate the government can accomplish this. I places it’s a park. We can put trailers development of registered traplines that will end as I began. The important work and have weekend camping, but nobody include increased and out-of-season use of begun by the current finance minister, is talking about protecting an ecosystem ORV’s and the growth in size and numbers of the Member for Foothills-Rocky View, in that case. We might be protecting a associated cabins. must be followed up on by the Minister scenic view shed or something like that. • Non-commercial recreational use [is a of Sustainable Resource Development, By being increasingly restrictive concern]. Trails must be maintained for the the Member for Grande Prairie-Smoky. of use, eliminating industrial activity and safety of park users and to limit their impact This is something that is of value to all eliminating hunting, fishing, trapping, on the park. The rules of the area, including Albertans, whether we live in the north other uses up to the point where we a prohibition on off-highway-vehicle use must or not. We need to designate our parks would build a chain fence or a wall be enforced. and protected areas, and we need to around apiece of ground: now it’s really In other words, we’ve got this protect them. Thank you for allowing me protected. And that might, in fact, be pristine jewel; let’s maintain it in its to contribute. true if our objective was to protect some pristine, natural state. 5:20 static entity; historic rock paintings, for • Pressure to remove boating prohibitions for The Deputy Speaker: The chair has example. It could be very clearly demon- the section of the Smoky River in the park. a list of speakers here. The first three strated that if humans weren’t allowed As I stated to begin with, would be the hon. Solicitor General, the anywhere near it, that’s how it’s going to • lack of official stewardship is allowing trails hon. Member for Cypress-Medicine Hat, last the longest, and if you allow people to become eroded in some areas and unsafe and the hon. Member for Rocky Mountain up to touch it, that’s how it’s going to last in others due to lack of maintenance. House.The hon. Solicitor General. the least. In that particular case, being I’ve seen that in my own personal Mr. Oberle: Well, thank you, Mr. very restrictive of access does in fact lead experience working in Cataract Creek. Speaker, for the opportunity to The danger of not maintaining pathways participate in this debate. I thank the ... continued on page 28 means that you end up closing them, and hon. Member for West Yellowhead for Willmore Wilderness Newsletter Page 28

Motion 507 – Willmore Wilderness Park - April 12, 2010

... continued from page 27 requires some form of intervention. It’s the MLA for Edson. This act established often habitat intervention, controlled the Willmore wilderness park, where burns or some other disturbance, that traditional land uses, including trapping, to increased or more rigorous protection. will alter the vegetation pattern on the hunting, fishing, and outfitting, would be What about if the value we’re landscape, but it could be population permitted and preserved. This act also trying to protect is not static? Ecological intervention as well. In that regard, I restricts all motor vehicles from the area, values – for example, functioning ecosys- wholeheartedly support the efforts of where the only permitted transporta- tems, functioning populations – are not the Member for West Yellowhead in that tion is by foot, horse, or bicycle. The static, and simply putting a fence around I believe that hunting, fishing, trapping, Willmore Wilderness Act was clearly them doesn’t preserve them for future those activities, are highly effective legislation created by the people for the generations. That’s been proven in spades. management tools and can be used in people of Alberta. It was created so You know, some of that thinking came out accordance with a management plan to that there would be assurances of the of Cape Breton Highlands national park, make a system unfold the way we want proper management and conservation where they allowed a system to evolve it to unfold, which will give us the future of resources within the park as well as that was all over-mature spruce and fir. desired condition that we want, which ensuring the perpetuation of traditional The budworm came in and cleaned it out, is why we protected the area in the first activities such as outfitting, hunting, fish- just wiped that park out in a matter of place. Merrily sticking our heads in the ing, and trapping. weeks at way higher levels than normally sand, putting a fence around something, Alberta has a rich history of would have happened because we didn’t and saying that it’s protected will not locally driven environmental legislation intervene and create a population work. We need active management tools, that protects our environment as well situation there that would have handled a and the tools that the hon. Member for as traditional land uses; for example, the spruce budworm outbreak. West Yellowhead defined are certainly Wilderness Areas, Ecological Reserves, You may be able to make the part of a wide tool box of interventions Natural Areas and Heritage Rangelands argument that we’re setting ourselves up that we could do in order to achieve a Act, which became law in the late 1990s. for disaster from fire or pine beetle in desired condition in a protected area. I This act defines and preserves significant some of our parks by doing exactly the strongly support the member’s motion, ecological areas across Alberta. They same thing: refusing to intervene. But Mr. Speaker. were divided into wilderness area you’ll notice that in Jasper park, for exam- The Deputy Speaker: The hon. designations with respective specific ple, they’ve been quite proactive over the Member for Cypress-Medicine Hat, regulations. Similar ecological reserves, last few years about habitat maintenance followed by the hon. Member for Rocky natural areas, and heritage rangelands or landscape vegetation maintenance. Mountain House. had their own distinct regulations as well, They’re doing burns. They’re actu- Mr. Mitzel: Thank you, Mr. Speaker. It’s with ecological reserves being the most ally doing single-tree logging events. It’s a pleasure and an honour to rise today restrictive. wonderful, and they’re trying to maintain to speak to Motion 507, proposed by I was a part of the discussions a condition for future generations. That’s the hon. Member for West Yellowhead. for the areas in my part of the province; the point of protection when it comes to At first blush, when I looked at this, it namely, the southeast of Alberta. I co- an ecosystem. It’s a dynamic system. You looked like a negative motion, a move chaired the committee that looked into have to decide what future condition you that would not bring forward changes. all the applications and met with stake- want and then: what action and tools do I But on a closer look at it, it’s apt. It’s very holders to determine the significance of need to take in order to make that future apt. This motion focuses on preserving each area and then recommended the condition hold true? the Willmore Wilderness Park Act. I’ll approved areas for designation. Our com- In just ignoring it, it isn’t going to go a step further, then, from what the mittee was charged with not only coming happen. The only thing that you know is other hon. members have said. It’s been up with appropriate areas but were given that it won’t stay in its current condition. suggested – and I think the suggestion parameters that stated there must be It’s going to change. Our forests are could possibly be true – that by the inclu- a certain percentage of Alberta lands dynamic, and the populations that live sion of the Willmore wilderness into the designated in both ecological reserves in them are dynamic. So we require UNESCO world heritage site designation, and in natural areas. management plans. I agree with the hon. there may be no need for the Willmore At the beginning, Mr. Speaker, member and the hon. Member for West Wilderness Park Act once this designation there was no mention of heritage range- Yellowhead. We do require management is made. lands. This particular designation came up plans because we want to define what Therein, Mr. Speaker, lies the when the committee could not come up condition we want to maintain this problem. As we’ve been discussing, the with the desired percentage for natural protected area in and what we have to do Willmore Wilderness Act was passed in areas. Our committee agreed to the new to ensure that it stays in that condition. 1959. It was an act promoted by locals, designation with restrictions: one, that it The “what do we have to do?” introduced in 1959 by Norman Willmore, would remain under Alberta agriculture, Page 29 Annual Edition - January 2011

as the grazing leases were then; second, recognition that designation as a world lot of good things with it. that all existing uses would be maintained. heritage site would bring to the Willmore When you look at the activities Since then, heritage rangelands, because wilderness. What is of concern to me, Mr. that are permitted in that area, it’s very, it’s within an all-inclusive act, is now Speaker: as I noted in my example of what very important to recognize that our under Alberta Tourism, Parks and has happened with the heritage rangeland parks act is a very protective piece of Recreation. The mandate of this ministry designation, being now administered by legislation. It does give the opportunity is somewhat different from the mandate a totally different body from what it was for management plans that can vary some, of Agriculture. originally intended with a vastly different but it restricts a lot of the activity that 5:30 mandate, these grazing lands are now would tend to destroy an ecosystem. As Another example. The Alberta under parks administration. This is what I the Member for Peace River was talking Hunting, Fishing and Trapping Heritage fear may happen: to a much larger degree about, these things do change, so there Act is another example of legislation that it’s an organization – and I’m talking about are times when perhaps we need to protects our traditional land uses and UNESCO – not located in Alberta and intervene. I remember about 15 years ago also our cultural values. This act created not having the same knowledge of the his- or so, when rabies was going rampant and a statutory right to hunt, fish, and trap tory and values of Alberta and Albertans a lot of the wildlife was dying from that that could be defended in court. I had who would suddenly be in charge. I’m sure disease, there was some intervention in the honour of bringing this act forward the intent is to have things remain as they that case to try to limit the area that was and having it proclaimed. Again, this is are right now, but as my previous example being affected. legislation that many Albertans support, showed, I’m suspicious of management But I’m really worried if we specifically because it’s part of their by people who are not from here but, start turning these things over to, say, heritage. That’s why so many Albertans rather, from around the world and with UNESCO. For the life of me, I don’t support the Willmore Wilderness Park headquarters in New York. With that, Mr. understand why some Albertans would Act, not only because it was established Speaker, I would urge all members of this be supporting this particular move. It’s by locals but because it has proven House to stand in support of Motion 507. not a lot different than the Y to Y, the effective in maintaining and sustaining the Thank you. Yellowstone to Yukon, concept. That Willmore wilderness park. The Deputy Speaker: The hon. Mem- would be taking a strip all along the The Willmore Wilderness Park ber for Rocky Mountain House, followed national parks from the Montana border Act is a clear example of locals pursuing by the hon. Member for Calgary-Buffalo. clear up and through Alberta and on environmental sustainability in a way that Mr. Lund: Well, thank you, Mr. Speaker, into Yukon. This concept, of course, was maintains traditional land uses. Willmore and thanks to the hon. Member for West something that we dealt with back in the park, Mr. Speaker, is considered one of Yellowhead for bringing this very impor- year 2000, even with the national parks. the best-kept secrets, in large part due tant topic to the floor of the House. I I remember meeting with one of the to the act that regulates it. The land had the privilege of being in the Willmore superintendents. He suggested to me that stewardship of this park is exceptional, wilderness along about ’57, ’58, in that we should have a buffer zone in Alberta which may be why some have suggested time frame. I was one of those bad guys for the park, and they would manage the it be incorporated into a UNESCO with industry going into that pristine area. buffer zone. I said: that’s fine as long as world heritage site. If for the past 50 we have an area inside the park that we years the Willmore Wilderness Park Mr. Groeneveld: Still are. would manage. Of course, that wasn’t Act has led to effective management of Mr. Lund: Okay. I had the opportunity acceptable. So it was a one-way street. this park, there is no need to change it. to be in that area again a couple of times With so many things like this, that’s really I support the act as it is now. It doesn’t not that many years ago, and I was the way it works. need to be amended or abolished to fit really pleased to see how little things have The people in Alberta that in with any international guidelines or changed and how this act actually has pro- promote this sort of thing: you have to regulations. The present act is a strong tected the area. As the Member for Peace look at where they’re coming from and piece of legislation that will ensure the River was talking about with an ecosystem, what their ideas are. Quite frankly, they environmental sustainability of this park with an area of that size certainly you are are in the minority, and this is the only as well as the traditional land uses well able to protect an ecosystem and have it way that they feel they could get the into the future. work. Of course, it’s over 50 years since opportunity to govern, not just to have For me, the concerns far out- it was proclaimed a provincial park by Dr. input– we provide them input – but weigh the advantages of being a UNESCO Norman Willmore. Incidentally, I believe actually get the opportunity to govern. site. I thank our hon. colleague from West he was the minister that was killed in an When you look at the park act, when you Yellowhead for introducing this motion, accident between here and Edson on the look at what it’s done for the Willmore, and I do not have anything whatsoever highway. I remember that situation was against UNESCO or the strong mandate a very sad occasion because he certainly ... continued on page 30 that they have and the prestigious knew the portfolio that he had and did a Willmore Wilderness Newsletter Page 30

Motion 507 – Willmore Wilderness Park - April 12, 2010

... continued from page 29 that we don’t want to change it. Thank people. Lots of activities with industry you, Mr.Speaker. are going on in that area and industry I don’t believe they could manage it any that should go on in that area, but with all better. I think it’s just wonderful the way The Deputy Speaker: The hon. that activity, with us doing some of these it’s currently being managed. Member for Calgary-Buffalo, followed things, it needs continued monitoring and To think about turning this over by the hon. Member for Grande Prairie- continuing enforcement. The boots-on- to an organization like UNESCO – I Wapiti. the-street analogy by my hon. colleague remember an incident that we had down Mr. Hehr: Well, thank you, Mr. Speaker. for Calgary- Varsity was very right. at Dinosaur provincial park where an It is indeed an honour to rise and speak to Without adequate enforcement these oil company drilled a well just inside the this motion, Motion 507, on the Willmore good things we do in this Legislature park. If I remember right, it was 70 feet. wilderness park. I’d like to thank the become meaningless. That was an interesting one. It created Member for West Yellowhead for bringing On that note, I would encourage a huge, huge incident. Because it’s a forward this legislation as it looks like some of these things to be done through UNESCO site, it got international play. good legislation for both the park and our land-use framework and through the Quite frankly, it was a stupid mistake the people whom this act is meant to development of our policies and practices that somebody made. If you look at the serve and to assist in their way of life. For through that framework and the various boundary of the park, it’s right along the instance, traditional land-use activities are divisions that are laid out in there. lip of the valley except for this one little an important way of life for the aboriginal There are also some areas that are noted place where there was a quarter section communities in the Willmore area, and for improvement from those in the park that came up maybe a hundred feet and we should not be seeking limitations on itself. Willmore wilderness park needs then back over, just a little triangular these practices without good reason. an updated park management plan that area. Somehow the surveyors missed it. We heard some of those good reasons addresses a number of concerns voiced by The well went in. They drilled. It started brought up by the Solicitor General, that environmental and conservation groups. producing. Then somebody discovered these forests and these areas do not live A draft plan was apparently prepared that, well, really, it’s on the edge of the in isolation, that you don’t just put up a in 1980 but not finalized. Like I said, the park. It was one of those wells where fence or a brick wall, that these forests government needs to move forward there was no surface disturbance. The and wild areas don’t prosper in that way. on the implementation of the land-use road that came into it: there was some It takes interaction in the way they’ve framework, and consultative mechanisms disturbance there. They managed to always been used and have interaction with aboriginal populations need to be reseed with the natural grass so that all with, I guess, other beings and other renewed and strengthened in advance of you would see as you were coming up activities to make these wild areas flourish. any discussions about traditional land-use to it in a helicopter would be this little Now, the second component activities. green strip. That’s all you could see. But it of that is that although we like to have Nonetheless, despite these was an international event, and that was these areas that have all this activity going reservations and despite this advice, if all because it had been turned over to on in them to sustain the health of the I could call it that, to the government, I UNESCO. area, there’s a tipping point when there think this is a good step forward and will 5:40 is too much human interaction. That’s allow for sound forestry management I’m really pleased that we have why conservation organizations such and sound management of the Willmore this opportunity to nip this in the bud. as the Alberta Wilderness Association wilderness park as well as allow for There are areas like the one at Dinosaur believe that consumptive activities like traditional usage by our aboriginal provincial park. There’s access to the area. hunting and trapping are sustainable, but communities of many and much of the If you’d turned this over – there are some they have to be managed properly under wilderness and streams and for trapping that are saying: well, it’s a great thing to the values of healthy wildlife populations and the like. Nevertheless, do because of tourism. Well, really, that and biodiversity. That’s where this act those are my comments. Thank you very means that you’re going to have to have and our protection of this park have to much for allowing me to speak on the the access in there, and you’re going to be co-ordinated with our Sustainable record on this very good motion. Thank have a lot more people accessing the area. Resource Development department to you, Mr. Speaker. Of course, they’re not satisfied with just monitor the effects of any activity in the The Deputy Speaker: The leaving it in the wilderness state. There Willmore wilderness park. hon. Member for Grande Prairie- are a lot of things that happen if you have Like I said, I agree with this act. I Wapiti, followed by the hon. Member for too many people going into an area. agree on having healthy, active wild areas Strathmore-Brooks. I’m very pleased that we such as the Willmore wilderness park. Mr. Drysdale: Thank you, Mr. Speaker. are going to pass this, I would hope They have to have some of these activities. I’m pleased and honoured today to speak unanimously, to send the right message We also have to monitor these as Alberta to Motion 507. The purpose of Motion out that this motion is a good motion and is 3.5 million people, heading for 5 million 507 is to ensure that the government Page 31 Annual Edition - January 2011

of Alberta continues to recognize the support it, and I encourage all members with regard to this afternoon. Mr. Willmore Wilderness Park Act as it to support it. Thank you. Speaker, I certainly support the intent of is. The Willmore Wilderness Park The Deputy Speaker: The hon. this motion and look forward to being Act promotes the management and Member for Strathmore-Brooks. able to support it. Thank you. conservation of the resources within 5:50 The Deputy Speaker: Do any other Willmore wilderness park and provides hon. members wish to speak on the motion? the legislative assurance of the traditional Mr. Doerksen: Thank you, Mr. Speaker. Seeing none, the chair shall now activities like outfitting, trapping, hunting, It’s also my privilege to rise today and call on the hon. Member for West Yellow- and fishing. speak in favour of Motion 507. I would head to close the debate on Motion 507. Activities like hunting and fishing like to also thank the Member for West Mr. Campbell: Thank you, Mr. Speaker. are key elements of conservation. Hunters Yellowhead for bringing this motion Motion 507 may not be popular among and fishers are true conservationists. By forward. I’ve listened with interest and certain environmentalists who have continuing to support their activities, as intently to the presentations that have urged a greater global control over Motion 507 urges, the Willmore wilder- already been made this afternoon and Alberta lands and especially the natural ness park will continue to be preserved certainly support the sentiment that has lands, but I can say that Motion 507 will for future generations. Albertans have been expressed. I have to admit that I instill confidence in Albertans who are exemplified their dedication to conserva- have not actually been in the Willmore concerned about the ramifications of tion, and as such Motion 507 promotes wilderness park but had the opportunity transforming the Willmore wilderness that Willmore wilderness park stay fully to visit it online to view some of the park as a UNESCO world heritage site. within Alberta jurisdiction. The Willmore absolutely fabulous pictures that have ` The Willmore Wilderness Park Wilderness Park Act has proven effective been taken and put online with regard to Act has proven effective in maintaining in maintaining and sustaining Willmore Willmore. While I haven’t actually been and sustaining our Willmore wilderness wilderness park for the past 50 years and to the park, I certainly support the prin- park. The Willmore wilderness act is an will continue to do so in the future. ciple that other members have brought example of locals pursuing environmental Mr. Speaker, I’ve been going to forward here this afternoon. When you sustainability in a way that maintains this park since the 1960s as a boy with my look at an area that’s 46,000 square traditional land uses. Mr. Speaker, the dad on horseback trips, and I can attest kilometers and it has been protected by Willmore wilderness act is popular to you that this park has been maintained local input and the dedication of local among many of the locals in the Grande and is in as good a state today as it was residents of that area for more than 50 Cache area as well as many Albertans 40 years ago. In fact, I have pictures of the years and hearing the other members from all over this great province who side of a mountain from a friend of my who have talked about the way that this participate in activities in the Willmore dad’s from the 1930s, and looking at the park has been preserved and protected wilderness park. same site last year, the site looks better by the existing Willmore Wilderness Park I would ask all my colleagues today than it did then because back Act, I see no reason why we would want to support this motion, and I would like then it was burnt. The whole side of the to further restrict activity that has gone to thank all of my colleagues who spoke mountain was burnt black and didn’t look on in that area for very many years. today on behalf of it. Thank you, Mr. that great, but it looks good today, I can I had the opportunity to go on Speaker. tell you. In fact, it’s even harder to find the Willmore Wilderness Foundation [Motion Other than Government the old trails. Like, there used to be trails website. The mission of that organization Motion 507 carried] from the natives and the hunters from is to preserve the history of the area, years ago back there. Now you can’t even focus on the advancement of education find the trails on horseback. It’s grown of the park, restore historical pack trails back into its natural state. and sites, and enhance the use of the I suggest that we leave the park Willmore wilderness park for Albertans in the control of Albertans, as it is. It’s and visitors alike. That is a success story beautiful back there in the mountains, the that I certainly want to support. intersection mountain where the Alberta- Again, the principle of not adding B.C. border is and where it bends to go further restrictions when there is not south. If you get up on that mountain, you a need to do that, I think, is something can see a long ways, and you can see no that we need to respect. I want to thank sign of man or interference. I’d like to keep the Member for West Yellowhead for this for my children and my grandchildren. bringing that issue forward. It’s one that I would like to thank my col- he certainly knows well and has a great league the Member for West Yellowhead deal of experience with, and I appreciate for bringing Motion 507 forward. I fully his asking me to make some comments Youth Mentored in Traditional Skills

The Willmore Wilderness Pictured above is Tyler Hallock Foundation recognizes that our & Logan Leonard cleaning up debris youth are the future… for both left in the Park at an abandoned the continuation of our lifestyle weather station. Thanks to a grant and the preservation of Willmore from the Alberta Conservation Wilderness Park. For over a decade Association we were able to clean up the Foundation has been mentoring this mess plus miles and miles of red youth on the trail, showing them the ribbon left behind by the Pine Beetle ways of the land. crews. While there is much more to do, we can take comfort that we From Left to Right: Willmore Warrior Trail hands We dedicate this issue to all the Banjo Hallock, Logan Leonard, hard working youth who had the have a young contingent of Willmore Dylan Kowalski, Eli Hallock, Tyler Hallock desire and drive to learn the old ways. Warriors in training today! with Chehala Leonard in the background.