Willmore Wilderness Newsletter

President’s Report

Spring is finally coming in the mountains after a long, deep winter. It Membership Renewal 07 - 08 2 was a welcomed change after record snowfalls in this area. Views From Sheep Creek 3

Changes seem to be coming fast 2007 Convention Information 3 and furious from our new government Willmore Wanderings 4 under Premier Ed Stelmach. Moccasin Telegraph 6 Let’s take a few minutes to consider the Land Use Framework Gourmet Cooking on the Workbook, available at .... 8 www.landuse.gov.ab.ca or MLA offices—and at many provincial gov- Backpacking in the Willmore 11 ernment or municipal offices. The deadline is June 15, 2007, so there is really feel we have enough of “limits” Tales & Trails in the Wilderness 12 not much time left. and protectionism already. This is a —“When did you stop beating your Observations of an Editor 15 wife?”— type of question. Remember this will be the HOT OFF THE PRESS template for land use in People & Peaks for years to come—so let’s look at it There are many more instances of 16 carefully. of questions, which bend the answers to more—not less—government Photos top left & centre courtesy of First, there are more than 520 intervention, and more preservationist Susan Feddema-Leonard. Parks and Protected areas in the agendas. I would strongly encourage Photo top right, Preston Berry & each of us to go to the meetings and George Hargreaves courtesy of Ishbel Cochrane. Province with more in the planning Photo of Bazil Leonard courtesy of process. This means more lost hunt- express our opinions and concerns. Susan Feddema-Leonard. ing opportunities, such as the recent It is too bad the government doesn’t creation of the Rock Lake Provincial use the Willmore Wilderness Act as a model for new parks. June 2007 Park. It seems that the emphasis is © Willmore Wilderness Foundation on Protectionism rather than Man- no portion of this newsletter may be agement. For example, Part III in the Remember, in a Democracy, the reprinted without written permission decisions are made by the 10% who a registered charitable organization Workbook regarding: “limits”—the #89655 0308 RR001 questioning is, would you accept care enough to show up and get “limits”—meaning more government involved. As the saying goes, “Vote intervention, policies, and regulations? early, vote often.” Limits to what and against whom? I Bazil Leonard, President Willmore Wilderness Newsletter Page 2

Join Our Membership -It’s Renewal Time June 1 to May 31 Find out about what’s happening in Willmore. Get the latest news, issues and developments! We will keep in touch with our members in a newsletter twice during the year. We keep you up-to-date on important events and infor- mation. Articles or letters to the Editor are always welcome. Join today!

A person may become a member by a favourable vote passed by a majority of members at a regular meeting of the Foundation, and upon payment of the fee. Written notification will be sent to accepted members with a membership card. Membership renewals will be sent out 14-days prior to this meeting, along with a formal notice. The membership year runs from June to June.

Yearly Membership is as follows: • $25.00 - dated from now to May 31, 2008 • Life Time Membership is $500.00 Find out about • Corporate Membership is $100.00 what’s happening in Willmore Wilderness. company Get the latest news issues & new developments! name We will keep in touch with address our members in a newsletter city twice during the year— in January and in June. postal code/zip country

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Views from Sheep Creek Brian Bildson - Executive Director

Greetings to all our Foundation thanks to all the folks and businesses supporters. Spring has finally arrived who donated items. after a long, cold winter with record snow falls. The melting snow will as- On the political front we have sist in recharging our water resour- been working diligently to protect ces, and the spring floods will flush our interests. Myself—and Pres- out our river systems. There are few ident, Bazil Leonard attended a places left on this planet where na- meeting with Minister Goudreau ture still plays out its natural rhythm and Minister Morton at the legis- like in Willmore Wilderness Park. lature in April. We accompanied other outdoor groups who share The Foundation has just finished our vision, and together delivered a its busiest winter ever. The amount strong message to the ministers that of work completed by our volunteers we want to be part of an effective is astounding. One of the highlights of consultative process. We brought the past season is the completion of up examples from last year such as our book “People & Peaks of Willmore the Rock Lake Park changes, and the Wilderness Park”. The book is out for M.O.U between B.C. and Alberta printing and will be available for pur- regarding Willmore Park, Kakwa chase within weeks. You can contact Wildland Park, and B.C. Kakwa Park the Foundation for purchase informa- as illustrations of significant changes tion. If you’re looking for a way to being made without public consulta- support the Willmore, the purchase tion. The Ministers seemed to be Brian Bildson, Executive Director of this book is a great way to start. receptive to our concerns but only at his home on the Wapiti River. Not only do you receive a world class time will tell. publication chock full of stories and Photograph courtesy of exceptional photos, your purchase In closing, I have one recom- Brian Bildson. goes towards continuing our work in mendation for all of us. Take time May 2007 the Park. this year to recharge yourself and spend some time in the outdoors. The Foundation has also put Hopefully you can visit the Willmore on three fund raising banquets— but, if not, find your own little piece , , and of paradise wherever you can. A . A lot of fun was had, in- day spent in the bush has a way of formation shared, and money raised changing how you look at the world. at the events. In total we had over Have a great summer! 500 attendees at the banquets. A big

Watch our website for our 2008 Convention dates: Edson - February 2, 2008 at the Edson Royal Canadian Legion Grande Prairie - March 1, 2008 Grande Cache - To be announced Edmonton - To be announded. Willmore Wilderness Newsletter Page 4 Willmore Wanderings By Mark Engstrom

Well, spring is here again. Pos- combination, the type generally used sibly the finest season, to my way of for helicopter landing sites, commonly thinking; in close competition with for seismic operations. Also obvious fall. After a long winter, it’s always so was flagging tape marking what ap- nice when spring finally arrives. I love peared to be recently surveyed spring. Saddles and tack get repaired seismic lines, marking chainsaw trails and oiled, horses get their long winter through the willow, and further up the hair brushed out, and there is a strong hill, lines cleared through the trees anticipation of rides into the Willmore. with a saw. Occasional marker flags taped to eight-inch nails lay scattered After a few days of preparation, I about. In a gully beside camp, I found was ready to go. On May 4th, a couple an empty orange spray paint can. friends and I headed out, destination— Big Graves. We went with one riding Now this camp is just outside horse and one packhorse each—load- the eastern Willmore Park boundary, ed with lots of grub for both riders where the border of the Park jogs in Mark Engstrom and horses. We took it easy the first and out west of A la Pêche Lake. Still, Photograph courtesy of day, traveling from Grande Cache to it was disappointing to see the mess Susan Feddema-Leonard Cowlick. We knew by the amount of left behind. I’m not sure if it’s just me, snow we could see on Hayden’s Ridge but seeing flagging tape flying every- from town that it was going to be a where in the bush really makes me chore to get over. I had heard stories mad. Many people traveling through from Bazil when he outfitted in that here believe they are in the Park here, area, of his spring trips. Some years even though the trail briefly ventures when there was high snowfall over outside the boundary. You would the winter, he told of having to break think cleaning up this type of mess trail over Hayden’s Ridge in snow up would be a priority when it’s so close to six feet deep. With near record to the Park. snowfall in 2006-07, I knew we may have trouble. The next morning we packed everything back up, saddled up and After an easy and uneventful trip, headed up Hayden’s Ridge. It was a we made it to the south end of the beautiful, sunny, warm day. Patches meadows at Cowlick where the trail of snow were common in the lower heads up Hayden’s. We unpacked, tied elevations, and as we rode higher we the horses and gave them their ration encountered more and more snow. of cubes for the day. We then set up About halfway up we were riding in camp and had a quick bite. The only snow steadily, and it became apparent thing that put a damper on the day when it reached the horses bellies, was what we had noticed on arrival that we weren’t going to make it to and now, looking closer, saw more of. the top. Disappointed, we headed back down. We decided to stay for Very obvious in the meadow a couple more days and do some was a large set of numbers made of riding in and around Cowlick. We small poplar cut in half, spray painted set up camp back at the same spot, orange and set in a six-letter/number and spent the afternoon walking the Page 5 – Summer/Fall Edition 2007 –

meadows and hillsides on Cowlick back to town. The next morning we Creek. We located the old pack trail decided to give the horses a rest and that heads over to A La Pêche, and head home the following day. So we talked about trying it the next day. spent the day exploring upstream on Cowlick Creek. That evening, it The third morning, with the started to rain. In my tent that night, weather looking to be good again, I could hear the rain all night. We we decided to try the trail over to awoke to more rain. We sat under a A La Pêche Lake. None of us had tarp around the fire for the morning, been there before, but then again I hoping the rain would let up—it did a had heard no one had traveled that couple of times. During one of these trail for a long time. We set out, short intervals, we packed up. Decid- bringing along one packhorse loaded ing to head straight home instead of with chainsaw and enough food and to Muskeg, we set out. Cowlick Creek refreshments for the day. The trail was flooding, higher than I had ever appeared not to have been traveled seen it, and there was water running much for a couple of years. We pretty down the trail in spots where I had much had to walk and clear the first never seen water before. The last half of the trail to just before where hour of the trip, it snowed fairly heav- it comes out of the Park. There we ily, and it was nice to get back to my hit a quad trail, which has been being barn, where I quickly had a fire going. used, and is in good shape. The Park We unpacked, hung our wet gear out boundary is marked there clearly, but to dry, and celebrated a successful the quad trail runs about a kilometre trip! into the park to a nice open meadow. This trail led us directly to A La Pêche Editor’s Note: Mark Engstrom is on Lake. The lake was still covered in ice, the Board of Directors of the Willmore Pictured above: with some open water near the edges. Wilderness Foundation. Top: Helicopter landing pad Very nice location, I heard the fishing Bottom: Orange spray paint can. there used to be fantastic. We had lunch and a drink at the lake, relaxed Photos by Mark Engstrom. for a bit, and then headed back. There were lots of sign of recent surveying activity along the trail. Another thing we noticed was horse droppings on top of the snow. Talking to Bazil later, he confirmed there are wild horses in that area. The two-hour ride back to Willmore Wilderness Websites Cowlick seemed short, as it took us five and a half hours to get to the lake, www.WillmoreWilderness.com clearing trail. www.WillmoreWildernessPark.com www.WillmorePark.com As we sat around the fire that night, we bantered about maybe riding www.MountainSolstice.com out to Muskeg on the trail through A La Pêche, and trailering the horses Willmore Wilderness Newsletter Page 6 The Moccasin Telegraph Willmore Wilderness Under Siege by Susan Feddema-Leonard

I was most impressed with a book After heated debates, it was agreed to that was published last year, called “The nominate the Sulphur Gates as a Special Alberta Forest Service 1930 – 2005. Place—with some caveats. This fine book was written by P.J. Mur- and Trapping should still be al- phy, R.E. Stevenson, D. Quintilio and S. lowed. However, it was agreed that Ferdinand. The publication details the there would be no hunting within 100 history of protection and management meters off the road. of Alberta’s forests. As I read the book I came upon a part on “Special Places” on Everyone seemed happy with this page 300 to 302. I was quite surprised nomination. The Grande Cache locals when I read, “The Special Place initiative could hunt in the Sulphur Gates area was originated from the World Wildlife after work. There was a large popula- Fund () Endangered Species Pro- tion of elk, and hunting kept the herd gram, which was endorsed by the federal culled down to a manageable size. and provincial governments.” Hunting was deemed by the locals to be a far better way to cull these Special Places 2000 involved many majestic animals than having them stakeholders who met in committees vehicle-killed. It was a win-win situa- throughout Alberta, to debate a special tion for animals and humans alike. BUT Susan Feddema-Leonard land base and make recommendation THIS WAS NOT SO! Unfortunately, May 3, 2007 at the Brule Rodeo. to nominate an area for a Special Places the hunting provision was not written status. One example of a Special Place into the final Special Places agreement. Photo by Jaeda Mae Feddema is the Sulphur Gates Staging Area ad- Somehow this important consensus jacent to Willmore Wilderness Park. of the Grande Cache Special Places Unfortunately, the hunting I was on this Special Places Committee, Committee was missed in the fine print provision was not written as I was of the Grande of the final document. This omission into the final Special Places Cache Chamber of Commerce at that would cost the Grande Cache hunting time. The committee was made up community. agreement. Somehow this of many representatives including the important consensus of the Town of Grande Cache, the M.D. of In 2002, Parks and Protected Grande Cache Special Places Greenview, the Grande Cache Trap- Areas of Community Development took over the Special Places man- Committee was missed in pers Local, the Aseniwuche Winewak Nation of Canada, and a local Alberta agement. They also took over the the fine print of the final Fish and Wildlife representative. Many management of Willmore Wilder- document. This omission arguments ensued around this land ness Park along with other Alberta would cost the Grande base—with one thing being VERY clear! parks. Unbeknown to the Grande Everyone on the committee wanted Cache locals, Parks and Protected Cache hunting community. to ensure that the traditional rights of areas put a hunting ban in the Sulphur hunting and trapping would continue Gates Special Place. The Special Places should they nominate the area for boundary somehow got expanded to a Special Places status. This was the include all of the land to the height of unanimous consensus of the group. Mt. Stearn down to the . Page 7 – Summer/Fall Edition 2007 –

Sadly, the hunters lost their right to who governed the World Heritage (OC) were secretly signed. Seven of harvest game from this area. Sites. I found out that UNESCO man- these were signed on November 22, ages “their properties” or “World 2006 creating new Provincial Parks. This winter there was a huge road Heritage Sites” out of their head- Hunting in most of these Provincial kill of elk adjacent to the Sulphur Gates quarters in France. (www.oneworld- Parks is not allowed, while trapping Area. There were more than ten elk heritage.com ). I also discovered that remains an allowable activity—for the carcasses along a one-mile stretch of most of the Continental Divide is moment. Two of the newly created Highway 40 between the Blue Bridge already designated as World Heritage Provincial Parks included Rock Lake and Number One Mine Flats, which is Site status. Areas include Waterton Provincial Park and Pierre Grey Prov- about four kilometers. National Park, the contiguous Na- incial Park. Both of these land masses tional Parks of Banff, Jasper, Koo- are located adjacent to the Willmore Since 2002, Parks and Protected tenay and Yoho, as well as the Mt. Wilderness Park. Albertans have now Areas have been rapidly increasing Robson, Mt. Assiniboine and Hamber lost the right to hunt in the Rock their management over large tracts Provincial Parks. Lake Provincial Park. This is another of land in Alberta. In the fall of 2006, notch in the belt of those trying to this Department orchestrated a secret Mt. Robson Provincial Park was stop traditional activities. Like Special signing of the Willmore/Kakwa Inter- an area where traditionally horse use, Places, they are “Eating the elephant Provincial Park, during the changing hunting and trapping were all prac- one bite at a time.” of the Alberta’s Premier. The parks ticed historically. Mt. Robson, and involved included Willmore Wilderness other World Heritage sites, allows The next alarm bell rang when Park, the and the NO hunting, trapping or horse use. I recently became aware that on B.C. Kakwa Provincial Park. As none These sites appear to limit human use. March 19, 2007, the Civil Servants of the local or regional groups had As Gordy Klassen, President of the quietly signed another Memorandum been consulted regarding this Inter- Alberta Trappers once stated, “Their of Understanding (MOU), which Provincial agreement, I set out on a idea of hunting and trapping would be will greatly impact trappers, outfit- mission to find out all I could about the to hire actors to entertain paying visitors ters and hunters alike. The MOU MOU and their new partners— with a into the World Heritage Site areas.” was again quietly signed by Alberta specific focus on the B.C. Kakwa Prov- Sustainable Resource Development incial Park. With the B.C Kakwa Provincial (SRD) and Alberta Tourism, Parks, Park making application for World Recreation and Culture (TPRC). This I decided to do a web search and Heritage Site status, I got the uncom- MOU carves the Registered Fur Man- find out about what the Ministry of the fortable feeling that the only two agement Areas (RFMA) and Wildlife B.C. Environment had to say about the Rocky Mountain Parks in the Alberta Management Units (WMU) into two Kakwa Provincial Park Management Rocky Mountain chain that are not separate areas. One is for RFMAs or Plan. (www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/ under UNESCO’s umbrella are Will- WMUs inside of Alberta Parks—and planning/mgmtplns/kakwa/kakwa. more Wilderness Park and the Kakwa the other is for ones outside of these html.) Wildland Park. These two small boundaries. It gives TPRC control parks, comparatively speaking, now over licensing of the RFMAs— as The alarm bells rang loudly, when appeared to me to be under siege. well as managing and applying “any I discovered that the B.C. Manage- conditions that TPRC may prescribe ment Plan had a stated goal to make While everyone was embroiled for access.” Worse yet, the RFMA’s application for World Heritage Site in an Alberta leadership race late ....continuted on page 10 status. My next step was to find out last year, many Orders in Council Willmore Wilderness Newsletter Page 8 Gourmet Cooking on the Brazeau River (As told to me by John Haggblad & Bill Hughes)

During the 1930s the Haggblad Luscar, accompanied the Haggblads. Brothers outfitted many wealthy Bill had gone with the Haggblads on nobleman clients from Europe and many of their past hunts. He didn’t England. On this particular occasion, work for wages but came along for they had out a Duke and Duchess the fishing and helped the cook and from Europe. wrangler with their daily chores. In return, Bill got all the food he They were hunting the South could eat. He always brought along Esk and Brazeau River areas of Al- his own saddle and packhorse, tent, berta. John and Nick Haggblad had sleeping bag and, of course, his per- hired George Woods, an English- sonal belongings. man who was among the finest of gourmet cooks. George himself had Bill enjoyed fishing and kept the come from a wealthy English family, camp supplied with all the fresh fish but had been banished by his family they could use. He also dried and and sent to Canada as a remittance smoked fish and meat on these hunts man. This was because of his drink- and there was always more than ing habits and the wild women he enough meat in camp so he had plenty Author Jim Babala associated with while drinking. Once for drying and smoking. In return for Photo by Susan Feddema-Leonard George got started drinking, he kept the meat, he helped with the flesh- February 2007 it up for a month or more. ing and caping of the trophies, drying them out and getting them ready for In the mining town of Luscar, he the taxidermist for mounting. Jim started professionally was known as the “remittance man” guiding and outfitting hunt- and received an annual payment On this hunt, Bill had skinned ing parties in 1946 in the from his family. The payment always out a sheep head and asked George Cadomin-Luscar area, with started George off on a long drunk. to cook the tongue and kidneys for brother, Bill. In 1949 he ven- him. At supper time when Bill asked tured out in his own business George was always hired as the George where the tongue and kid- and outfitted a party to the cook when the Haggblads had hunts neys were, George had his answer Hay and Sulphur Rivers—on of noble birth. George was a fussy ready. He told Bill that the Duke person when it came to cooking and and Duchess had seen him with the his first trip into what is now serving people, and became the pre- tongue and kidney and said they Willmore Wilderness Park. fect gentleman at those times. He would like to try to eat them. So he He guided hunting parties in always served people of distinction cooked them up for the Duke and this area until 1972 when he in their own tents, separately from Duchess, saying they enjoyed them took his outfit north the guides and other help of the very much and added, “You know to the Yukon. Jim still lives hunting camp. He took along with Bill, the Duke and Duchess come with his wife in him special trays, tea pots and tea first in this camp.” cups, extra coffee and other dishes. Whitehorse Yukon. He did everything up very elegantly Bill grumbled something like, on those occasions. “I like and respect my stomach as much as they do theirs.” On this particular trip, Bill Hughes, a Welsh miner and no prac- ....continued on page 9 tical joker, from the mining town of Page 9 – Summer/Fall Edition 2007 –

During the next few days, a the extra portion of sauce I made and a were brought in for to go with them, there would have skinning. Bill skinned out the deer hardly been enough for the Duke head and the coyote hide. He took and Duchess. In fact, they even re- the deer tongue, put it in a pot and marked they could have eaten more, hid it in his tent. Then he put the and that it all tasted better than the coyote tongue and deer kidneys on a sheep tongue and kidneys. I told pie plate. them once they got their moose, I would cook up a large amount. He was attending to some fish he There will even be a feed for you.” was smoking when he noticed George pick up the pie plate and take it over “That’s quite alright, George. I to the cook tent. He tended to his understand the Duke and Duchess smoking for a few more minutes and come first. I enjoyed a fine feed of then walked over to the cook tent. deer tongue at lunch time along with George was busy skinning and slicing a piece of boiled shank meat. I had a up the kidney telling Bill he always like good feed. In fact, I have some tongue to soak the kidney in salt water and and boiled shank left for tomorrow,” George looked at Bill, vinegar for a few hours before cooking. answered Bill. Then he added, as if in horror stricken. afterthought, “The small tongue you Bill commented, “It’s up to you served the Duke and Duchess was “Heaven forbid!” he said. George, you’re the cook.” George coyote tongue you know.” “You must be jesting!” answered, “I’m going to make a fine “By no means,” said Bill. sauce to go with the kidneys and George looked at Bill, horror tongue, a sauce I haven’t made for stricken. “Heaven forbid!” he said. “That dish you cooked up years.” Bill then said, “George, I “You must be jesting!” “By no means,” for the Duke and need an onion and some spice. I’m said Bill. “That dish you cooked up for going to boil up some meat. I’m tired the Duke and Duchess was genuine Duchess was genuine of canned meat. I’m going fishing in coyote tongue and deer kidneys.” coyote tongue & deer the morning too, for a change so I’ll take some bread and butter. Don’t “Why didn’t you tell me?” kidneys.” bother with lunch for me. I’ll make a sandwich and have a cup of tea in Bill replied, “George, you know, my tent.” yourself, you said the Duke and Duch- ess come first here and you never Bill left George busy preparing even asked me for the tongue and the tongue and kidneys. As usual at kidneys. You just come over and took suppertime, George attended the them and I was keeping them for my- Duke and Duchess first. Bill and the self, so I kept the deer tongue for my- rest of the crew came into the cook self. It was the only way I was going to tent for supper and Bill said, “Any get any of it. Come and see for your- kidney or tongue left, George?” self. As I said, I still have half a tongue George very apologetically replied, left and some shank meat.” “I’m sorry Bill, there’s none left. The tongue was rather small and if George walked over to Bill’s tent ....continued on page 14 it hadn’t been for the kidneys and and looked at the tongue and said, “At Willmore Wilderness Newsletter Page 10

The Moccasin Telegraph Willmore Wilderness Under Seige .... continued from page 7 Willmore Wilderness Act boundary will be changed and re- ravaging the country at an unbeliev- aligned with the lands under TPRC’s able pace. The other partner is the remains the most control. The MOU outlines that environmentalist, who wants no critical piece of legisla- SRD will establish separate WMUs human impact on the land. Both of for each class of Parks and Protected these partners are to the extreme tion and we need to Areas. This will give TPRC the right right and left. Members of the Will- vigilantly watch over it. to control and manage park access more Wilderness Foundation are by hunters, outfitters, trail riders and the third party caught in the middle trappers alike. of this ugly battle. We agree with As long as we have this the environmentalists’ principles to I believe that this MOU was protect the land, however, with a Act, we will be able to signed in contradiction to the Alberta BIG CAVEAT. We want to practice use Willmore Wilderness Wildlife Act. It is my belief that it the rights of our forefathers—to was signed with the understanding hunt, trap, outfit and use horses in Park in traditional that the Civil Servants would have Willmore Wilderness Park. The goal fashion—however, it the Wildlife Act changed to suit the of a World Heritage Site would com- terms and conditions outlined in the promise these traditional activities. appears to be a target of MOU. I ask you, who is in control Our only hope is to keep the Will- those who seek to of our province’s land? Do our pol- more Wilderness Act intact. Hope- iticians realize that the bureaucrats fully, we will be able to withstand the remove or limit hunting, have a hidden agenda, in which they siege around this Park. trapping, outfitting, trail write the agreements and then ask for amendments to the law? The Willmore Wilderness Act riding and horse use remains the most critical piece of from the Park. Now this new division of author- legislation and we need to vigilantly ity with respect to RFMAs and WMUs watch over it. As long as we have this appears to create two standards! Act, we will be able to use Willmore There is one standard for trappers Wilderness Park in traditional fash- and hunters who use lands under ion—however, it appears to be a tar- TPRC’s control and another standard get of those who seek to remove or for those outside of Alberta’s Parks. limit hunting, trapping, outfitting, trail riding and horse use from the Park. It seems to me that our Civil Service appears to be serving an I implore anyone who reads this internationally focused “green” to become active and let your MLA agenda to take away traditional rights know what is happening. Premier of Albertans. The historic rights of Stelmach needs to hear what is going hunting and trapping are being denied on behind closed doors. The Inter- to Provincial residents, as a result national mandate to create a hu- of secret and behind-closed-door man-free land base, along the Rocky agreements. This appears to be any- Mountain corridor and in other thing but transparent. key locales, will potentially violate the traditional hunting and trapping I somehow feel like we are rights of Albertans. caught in the middle of a marital dispute. One partner, industry, is Page 11 – Summer/Fall Edition 2007 –

BACKPACKING IN THE WILLMORE - A Great Adventure

To Whom It May Concern: BACKPACKING IN THE WILLMORE of horses, hikers and game so you need A Great Adventure to allow time for route finding. We My husband talked to one of the were surprised by an early snow storm “Friends of the Willmore” a couple If you enjoy solitude, spectacular and spent two days through months ago regarding our trip and it views and challenge consider the the snow. However, the cold weather was suggested we send a brief descrip- Willmore. We spent fifteen days meant fewer mosquitoes—a definite tion and a few pictures. The pictures backpacking from Kakwa Lake to plus. We saw several white tail deer, a we included are “Approaching Casket Mt. Robson and did not see another huge bull moose and numerous birds. Pass in the Snow”, “Wading Pauline person from the time we left Kakwa Other than the two to three days Creek” and “Jackpine Pass”. We Lake until we hit the North Bound- spent hiking up the Val- started our trip the very end of July. ary trail one day away from Robson. ley, we hiked over one or two passes We live in North Central Washington Most of that time was spent hiking each day. Each pass led to a new drain- and enjoy hiking, climbing and skiing through the western end of the age system and new vistas. The most in British Columbia and Alberta. We Willmore and we felt like we had spectacular was at the top of Jackpine really enjoyed the Willmore and ap- found true wilderness. Pass where we felt like we could almost preciate the information you have touch the Resthaven Icefields. made available on the area. We used Dustin Lynx’s guide for the and followed the We have barely started exploring Sincerely, main route which travels from one riv- the Willmore Wilderness. We defin- er valley to the next. Stream crossings itely plan to come back. Maribel & Curt Johnson were frequent so water was never a problem but since there are no bridges Pictured top left: Jackpine Pass (Excerpts from an email sent to that also meant wet feet the majority Pictured right: “Approaching Casket Pass the Willmore Wilderness of the time. As far as we could tell the in the snow.” Foundation on January 1, 2007.) trails are “maintained” by the passing Picture bottom right: “Wading Pauline Creek.” Willmore Wilderness Newsletter Page 12

TALES & TRAILS IN THE WILDERNESS

This is the first part of a story by his great knowledge of the trails, mus- wooden slats glued to one side. The Ethel Miller (deceased). It is printed by per- kegs, river crossings, horse packing, canvas was rolled up while it was on mission of her husband, Charlie Miller. The shoeing or whatever a “greenhorn” the pack. When it was to be used as a story will be continued in succeeding issues needed to know about this part of the table, you had to cut two poles, each of this newsletter. country. We were soon to learn about approximately six feet in length. These the adventuresome trips that could be two poles were then tacked onto four experienced—if a person wanted, and three-foot pegs that were pounded into Chapter One: Small Beginnings was so inclined to get out and see the the ground. Then the canvas with the scenery and wild animals that roamed slats was spread over the table frame. It Just like all good things in life, the vast land. Sometimes the weather made a pretty sturdy table but if it had horseback trips into the mountains could be quite a factor in how a trip been ours, it no doubt would have been come to an end, sometimes sooner would turn out, and we had some trips used for firewood on that trip! We got than one plans, but nevertheless, they that will be well remembered because it back home successfully but swore it do end. The time had come to sell our of the weather. If everything goes well would never be taken on another trip. saddle horses, and having found a buyer on a trip, it can be quite a bonus, but That was when we could see that we for the two of them, we thought it was one also recalls some of the “not-so- would rough it—and use a stump as our great they could stay together. We good times”. table while out in the bush. were down to only two saddle horses but, in earlier years, we had as many The first few years before we got A lot of the outfitters used wood- as five horses to take us out into the our own packhorses, we borrowed en pack boxes. We did not use them mountains on many an adventurous packhorses and rigging and set out to though, as we used canvas panniers. trip. Now we were not riding them see what this was all about. We both In each pannier, there were a couple as often as we should have been, and worked at the Pulp Mill so were only of thin boards to hold the shape of as we were getting older, sometimes able to get away to do trips while on the pannier better. Quite often, these thoughts of getting bucked off and vacation or on long weekends. We thin boards would serve as a tabletop really getting hurt were creeping into both had originally come from a farm or cutting board. The canvas panniers our minds. Horses had been in our lives so horses were not something to be traveled much better than the wooden for many years, and with a lump in my afraid of, but we never had good saddle pack boxes. They were lighter and a lot throat as the trailer left the yard with horses on the farm, just driving horses of supplies could be packed in them. our saddle horses, I felt like I was losing or workhorses. It was a new experi- The only disadvantage was that some- part of my family—and another phase ence to have shoes on your horse while times the bread got a little bent out of of my life was coming to an end. on trips. It was not long before Charlie shape, but never so bad that it wasn’t had picked up the knack of shoeing the edible. If a packhorse happened to hit In 1965, we moved to the Hinton horses, tying the “diamond hitch” and a tree, the wooden ones could take a area, and horses were not one of our putting in long days while out in the beating. Most packhorses soon learned reasons for moving there. But it was bush or on the trail. how to wind their way among trees not long after our move that we met without rubbing their loads. If they Carl, a fellow who had been involved The first few trips out, we trav- were acting up though, their judgment with horses for many years and had eled with heavier loads and were taking of distance seemed to be turned off been an outfitter. He knew the trails along more luxury items than we did and showed little respect for the packs and countryside in the Hinton-Jasper- later—after a few trips. I remember on their backs. Grande Cache area like the back of his one trip in particular where we took hand. At the time we met him, he still along a slatted table. It had to be the Chapter Two: Rock Lake had quite a string of horses and pack worst thing, as it would not stay in rigging. He was not in the outfitting the pack very well and kept slipping Rock Lake was one of our favourite business anymore but was not afraid out from under the tarp. The table areas to haul our horses to, and start a to lend his horses and rigging or share consisted of a sheet of canvas with trip from. Rock Lake is approximately Page 13 – Summer/Fall Edition 2007 –

forty miles northwest of Hinton. In earlier years, before the Grande Cache On one trip, when we were hunt- highway was paved, a gravel road wound ing in the Rock Lake area and after its way towards the Muskeg-Grande not hearing the familiar bell, Charlie Prairie area. About twenty miles out, decided he’d better go and see where there was a turnoff towards Rock Lake. the horses were. His unloaded rifle was The road got narrower and the gravel leaning against the tree near the tent, was pretty sparse. Some hairpin curves as he was getting ready to go. He was greeted you along the way. Willow, going to take it but on second thought, spruce and pine trees lined the edge of “Why bother dragging it along out in the road. Cut lines criss-crossed the the swamp looking for horses?” So road every so often, which gave you a with that thought, he left and, as he chance to see some game feeding on got near the swamp, saw a couple of the cut lines at different times. horses right in the thick of the swamp grass and was cursing under his breath Once you got to Rock Lake, you that they would have gone across the could unload and camp anywhere with creek with their hobbles on. But on a your horses. There were many spots better look, he realized it was a couple with a good supply of feed and water of moose standing there with their right near by. In the earlier years, you heads down, browsing in the swamp had to ride about three miles, from grass. That was when he thought of his “Rock Lake was one of where you camped, to the Willmore rifle leaning against the tree back at the Wilderness Park Gate. tent. The horses had gone off in an- our favourite areas to other direction, and the moose, sensing haul our horses to and Later, a vehicle road was put right there was a human nearby, soon lum- to the Gate and a better staging area bered off deeper into the bush. “Moose start a trip from.” was developed. Once you got to the track soup” was about all we got for Willmore Wilderness Gate, no motor- supper that night. ized vehicles were allowed, except by authorized personnel. Sometimes those On another trip when we were in Quote by Ethel Miller three miles back from the Gate to your the same area, the horses were hob- vehicle seemed pretty long, after a hard bled and were not too far from camp, trip. The horses always knew when when someone came along at night and they were heading home and were took the hobbles off. They just hung inclined to trot for miles. If you were them around the horses’ necks. The a little “saddle weary,” you certainly horses had traveled that area and they counted and felt the miles too. definitely knew the way home. Quite a few hours of tracking were spent the Some of our first trips out, we next day before we were able to locate had several packhorses borrowed and them and get them back to camp. these horses had been out in the Rock Lake area many trips. They would hang Horses travel pretty well with together and just by being hobbled hobbles on; but they make really good would stay in the area. We would bell a time without them, especially in the couple of them and that was a comfort- direction of home. ing sound at night when you woke up and heard that bell close to your tent. Author, Ethel Miller Willmore Wilderness Newsletter Page 14

Willmore Wilderness Gourmet Cooking on the Brazeau River - Continued Foundation a registered charitable organization #89655 0308 RR001 ....continued from page 9 Box 93 Grande Cache, Alberta T0E 0Y0 Canada the time I was preparing it I thought ing your own cooking, and God only Phone: 1-780-827-2696 Toll Free: 1-866-WILMORE the tongue looked rather small, com- know what you guys will be eating!” Email: [email protected] pared to the sheep tongue.” George was silent as they walked back to the The crew kept the secret because Web Pages: cook tent and when they went in, the George, as cook, held all the aces. WillmoreWilderness.com crew sat looking at George, all smiling. John Haggblad said it was the best WillmoreWildernessPark.com kept secret he ever heard of. Although WillmorePark.com after the Duke and Duchess had left, MountainSolstice.com One of the gang said, “Hell, George, don’t let it worry you. The everyone heard about the coyote Whitefox Circle Inc. Publisher Duke and Duchess enjoyed it and even tongue, cooked gourmet style, and Estella Cheverie, Editor asked for more. Nothing wrong with said that the sauce George cooked up Brian Bildson, Regular Columnist feeding coyote if it’s done up right.” must have been extra tasty. Mark Engstrom, Regular Columnist

A person may become a member George looked at the crew and By Jim Babala. by a favorable vote passed by a majority said, “Not a word of this to the Duke of members at a regular meeting of the Foundation, and upon payment of the fee. and Duchess or you will all be do- Written notification will be sent to accepted members with a membership card.

$25.00 for the 2007-2008 year. Life Time Membership is $500.00 Corporate Membership is $100.00 per year. The membership year runs from June 1 to May 31. Annual General Meeting in June of each year. Hay for Sale An independent newsletter published in January & June. check out our advertising rates: full page ad B & W - $175.00 1/2 page ad B & W - $95.00 1/4 page ad B & W - $55.00 1/8 page ad B & W - $35.00 Taking Orders circulation 2500 © Willmore Wilderness Foundation no portion of this newsletter may be reprinted without written permission. The entire Newsletter is copyrighted. Alfalfa - Timothy - Brome

We welcome feedback to this publication and any suggestions or ideas for future articles. Square bales for sale in Grovedale. Contact our Editor at [email protected] Taking orders for July: $4.00 in the field. $4.50 in the stack.

Call Judy or Greg at 780-538-9115 or 780-831-9082 Willmore Wilderness Newsletter Page 15

Observations of an Editor

I’ve been asked to share my obser- fact that life had to go on at the same vations about our book, People & Peaks time: Foundation fundraisers, news- of Willmore Wilderness Park: 1800s letters, day-to-day, time-consuming to mid-1900s. I say “our,” which is to office routine, not to mention, home include the author, the interviewees, and family life. our families, friends, members of the Willmore Wilderness Foundation and When we thought we were fin- all our respective supporters. This has ished, then came the publishing pro- truly been an experience shared by cess—time spent on research of the many, in many different ways—right what-to-dos and hows. This included down to the final anticipation of the trips to Edmonton to meet with pro- finished product—by everyone. fessionals in various categories of in- volvement. It was a case of being open It has been an interesting four (I and just absorbing when it came to think) years of a wild gamut of mixed new avenues in which we were nov- emotions, learning, enjoyment and ices. What an education! satisfaction. Like the author, this is my first venture into the literary world of When the time came that we got writing and publishing. to see what the final product would look like, (before it went to the print- Estella Cheverie of Grande Cache. Personally, I have always loved ers) what a rewarding experience it books, and seem to be a collector. In was to see the culmination of all our Editor of “People & Peaks reading a book, I don’t read fast but endeavours before us! I thought it was of Willmore Wilderness Park.” rather feast on the words and pictures beautiful! I’ll admit, at that moment, they portray in my mind. I used to we enjoyed and reveled with delight in Photo by Susan Feddema-Leonard. enjoy writing descriptive letters— the satisfaction derived from the fruits when we used to write letters! I also of our labour. However, neither of us wrote some poetry as a girl and young takes sole credit for this endeavour. adult—it was a way to present my We appreciate all the help and input experiences and share my philosoph- from all our sources. The success ical views. On the other hand, when I of this publication is the result of a read books or papers, errors seem to labour of love, by many. jump out at me. That’s my meticulous, mechanical characteristic showing. It has been a great adventure and now that I’ve “got my feet wet,” it will My part in this undertaking be difficult not to be hooked into fu- started as a proofreader, from which ture developments that will inevitably everything else blossomed. My in- evolve from this project. volvement became deeper as we progressed in the transcription of Estella Cheverie, Editor interviews, to the layout, which then People & Peaks included appropriate photos, and the of Willmore Wilderness Park painstaking refinement of those im- ages. Patience and tolerance was re- quired when we started having yester- day deadlines, especially in face of the Willmore Wilderness Newsletter Page 16 newly released “Seldom are we provided with a modern-day, close-up view of the day-to-day lives and activi- ties of the people, whose courage, resourcefulness and humour (often in the face of what would be for lesser stock, overwhelming calamity) is captured here in the pages of People and Peaks of Willmore Wilderness Park.”

Roger Brunt, Salt Spring Island, Award-winning journalist/columnist and director of The North American School of Outdoor Writing www.linksnorth.com/outdoorwriting/index.html hot off the press:

People & Peaks of Willmore Wilderness Park

456 pages with 600 images

Price $60.00 Shipping $ 15.00 call 1-866-WILMORE Visa, MasterCard & Amex

Willmore Wilderness Preservation & Historical Foundation Box 93, Grande Cache, Alberta T0E 0Y0 Canada 1-780-827-2696 or [email protected] Registered Charitable Organization #89655 0308 RR001

Top photo courtesy of Glen Kilgour; Henry Joachim courtesy of Victoria Moberly. All other photos by Susan Feddema-Leonard Design & layout by Whitefox Circle Inc.