©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

The Cordilleras & Yungas

Includes  Why Go? Cordillera Real . . . . 95 Caught between the Andes and the Amazon, this rugged Huayna Potosí. . . . .96 transition zone has just about everything you could ask for Condoriri Massif. . . .97 from your Bolivian adventure. Illimani...... 98 For the vertically inspired, there are glacier-capped 6000m peaks and adrenaline-charged mountain-bike The Yungas...... 99 descents. Nature lovers will appreciate the cloud forests and Coroico & Yolosa . . . 99 hillside semitropical Yungas towns of Chulumani, Coroico El Choro Trek. . . . .108 and Sorata, where you can hike to nearby waterfalls, start Takesi Trek...... 109 your river trip into the Amazon, go mountain biking, or sim- Yunga Cruz Trek. . . 112 ply enjoy the breeze from a mountain hideaway. Far off the tourist trail, the areas around the Cordilleras Chulumani...... 112 Quimsa Cruz and Apolobamba offer large swaths of wilder- Sorata...... 117 ness, a few lost ruins and great opportunities for adventure. Mapiri Trail...... 121 Everywhere in between there are treks into the past along Aucapata & preserved Inca trails, wildlife watching aplenty, warm weath- Iskanwaya...... 123 er, cool breezes and a pervading air of hard-won tranquility. Cordillera Apolobamba. . . . .123

When to Go Coroico Best Places to °C/°F Te mp Rainfall inches/mm Eat 40/104 8/200 30/86 6/150 ¨¨Café Illampu (p120) 20/68 ¨¨Carla’s Garden Pub (p106) 4/100 10/50 2/50 0/32

-10/14 0 Best Places to J FDM A M J J A S O N Stay ¨¨Hostal Sol y Luna (p105) May–Sep Climb- May–Oct Trek- Jan–May Cheaper ing season means king season is hotels, less people ¨¨Altai Oasis (p120) dry weather and longer. In shoulder and high rivers. ¨¨Huayna Potosí Refugio good visibility. months your feet Remote travel can (p97) might get wet. be tough.

S S S W S S 68ºW

16º 67ºW 15º 67º30' 68º30'W

14º30' Apolo 15º30' 16º30' Mapiri

Río

roico o C Rurrenabaque Parque Madidi Caranavi Nacional Sorata Limitada Mine

Guanay

69ºW Yungas Laza Canata Tipuani

Río 67ºW Coroico S Río Chulumani Yolosa

Mapiri Irupana Tipuani

14º30' Iskanwaya Río Área Natural de Área Natural Integrado Manejo Nacional Apolobamba Chuspipata Yanacachi Aucapata Cordillera Apolobamba La Paz El Choro Trek del Oro Trek Quime Mapiri Trail Lagunillas to Agua Blanca Lagunillas to Agua Trek (Curva-Pelechuco) El Camino Takesi Trek Agua Blanca Yunga Cruz Chairo Takesi Mina S Cordillera Real Caracoles Parque Mina San Francisco Cotapata Nacional

Curva 17º Cordillera

Chuñavi

Pelechuco ío La Paz La ío Quimsa Cruz

Charazani R Illampu (6362m) Unduavi World's Most Ancoma Mina Ulla Ulla Ventilla Viloco Dangerous Road La Cumbre Lagunillas Massif

Chachacomani (6074m)

Condoriri

Consata 67º30'W Palca Illimani

(6438m) 69º30'W Potosí 50 km Italaque Milluni BOLIVIA (6088m) (6427m) Huayana Cerro 25 miles Quiabaya Ancohuma Sorata Achacachi (5648m) Condoriri El Alto Huarina Airport Illimani Base Camp Ancoraimes Pucarani Puerto Carabuco Puerto Acosta PERU LA PAZ Tilali Huatajata Escoma 1 S Viacha Laja

15º Batallas Conima Patacamaya Pérez Moho Puerto Isla Campanario

0 0 S Lago de W Isla del Sol Isla de la Luna (Koati) S Isla Soto

Tiwanaku Lake

S W Tiwanaku

Titicaca S Huyñaymarka 68º 69ºW

15º30' 16º 16º30' 68º30' 17º ). ). ) ). ). the path the path ). ). eave the tourist the tourist eave (p107

Travel in Travel Settle down for for down Settle L Meet delicate delicate Meet Marvel at the Marvel Explore lost ruins lost Explore Treat yourself to yourself Treat et dusty as dusty Get Strap on Strap Swing over over Swing

views and discover and discover views Andean far-removed along the cultures (p109 Trek Takesi (p122). at Iskanwaya a few days of warm warm of days a few a hammock weather, in and poolside drink 100 (p Coroico you descend nearly nearly descend you 3600m (12,000ft) on bike mountain by Most the World’s Road Dangerous (p104 crampons and swing and swing crampons climb one to ax an ice peaks the fabulous of Real the Cordillera of (p95). for less-traveled less-traveled for hiking and climbing, biking opportunities. (p117to Sorata a 9 8 7 6 5 4 3

2 Highlights & Yungas 1 Cordilleras The of the Inca on the the Inca of inspiring El Choro Trek a long journey into into a long journey the Amazon from of the jungle outpost (p115 Guanay trail behind for out-of- behind for trail adventures this-world Cordi- in the rugged Cruz Quimsa llera (p99). wild vicuñas and the vicuñas wild Kallawaya renowned in the healers Cordillera remote 123 (p Apolobamba Cordilleras & Yungas Highlights

The Cordilleras & Yungas 94