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Home , Alasitas, Ancoraimes Municipality, Aucapata, Ayoreo language, Carnaval de Oruro, Chaupi Orco (mountain)

Footprint n Extensive coverage of the most famous and lesser-known places, from the vast Salar de and the sparkling to the vineyards of Tarija

n Expert authors Ben Box, Robert and Daisy Bolivia Kunstaetter know the country inside out, having lived and travelled in BOLIVIA for over three decades n Inspirational colour section and detailed maps to help you plan your trip n Authoritative advice and recommendations to ensure you find the best accommodation, restaurant and local tour operator n Comprehensive information to immerse you in the country’s fascinating history and diverse culture n Footprint have built on years of experience to become the experts on Latin America

‘Footprint is the best – engagingly written, comprehensive, honest and bang on the ball.’ THE SUNDAY TIMES Footprint Handbook

Travel: South America UK £12.99 6th edition USA $19.99 ISBN 978 1 909268 66 1 Bolivia BEN BOX, footprinttravelguides.com ROBERT & DAISY KUNSTAETTER Planning your trip ...... 2 and beyond...... 216 This is Bolivia...... 2 Cochabamba...... 220 Best of Bolivia...... 4 Beyond Cochabamba...... 231 Route planner...... 11 Best parks and reserves...... 14 Santa Cruz and eastern lowlands. . . . . 238 When to go ...... 17 Santa Cruz...... 241 What to do...... 21 Eastern Bolivia...... 265 Where to stay ...... 23 Food and drink...... 25 Northern lowlands...... 284

La Paz and around ...... 28 Rurrenabaque and Madidi...... 287 San Borja to Trinidad...... 298 Central ...... 33 Riberalta to Brazil...... 302 South and east of La Paz...... 43 Cobija ...... 304 ...... 45 North of La Paz, Background...... 308 trekking and climbing...... 46 History and politics...... 309 Lake Titicaca, the Cordilleras and Yungas. 74 Economy...... 321 Culture...... 324 ...... 77 People...... 342 Lake Titicaca ...... 81 Land and environment...... 346 ...... 102 The Yungas ...... 109 Practicalities...... 358

Southwest Bolivia...... 122 Getting there...... 359 Getting around...... 360 Oruro and around...... 125 Essentials A-Z ...... 366 Salar de Uyuni and around...... 144 Index...... 378 Footprint features...... 379 Central and southern highlands...... 166 Acknowlegements...... 382 Sucre...... 169 About the authors...... 383 Potosí...... 184 Credits...... 384 Tarija...... 201 Colour maps ...... 385 Footprint Handbook Bolivia BEN BOX, ROBERT & DAISY KUNSTAETTER Bolivia Like its luminescent sky, Bolivia remains largely unpolluted and, in an age of rampant Disneyfication, stands out for its authenticity. There are over 17 million hectares of protected natural areas, but isolation is what best protects the intense and often bizarre beauty of Bolivia's landscapes. For the same reason, the cultural integrity of its peoples remains intact. Even though ’ government is bringing municipalities closer together, paving roads and building communal facilities, it takes time and patience to travel from one place to the next. We (the authors) have travelled the length and breadth of Bolivia between us, but just when we might think that we have figured it out, it will catch us off guard. Some amazing new experience leaves us humbled and in awe of this remarkable country. Some of our favourites include a guide playing his in a cathedral-like cave near Torotoro; listening to the choir practise baroque music in San José de Chiquitos; walking all day without ever reaching the mirage-like shore of Lago Poopó; bathing in hot springs at Laguna Blanca and not wanting to get out because the air is almost zero; gliding down the River Yacuma being watched by countless caiman and cackled at by family after family of prehistoric hoatzin. From the shores of Titicaca, the world's highest navigable lake, to the 'Lost World' table-lands of Noel Kempff Mercado National Park, following the footsteps of dinosaurs, bandits and revolutionaries, there are endless opportunities for off-the-beaten path exploration. Along the way are rest- stop cities and towns where travellers can indulge in creature comforts as well as tall tales of their adventures. Ben Box, Robert & Daisy Kunstaetter Best of

Best of Cambodia Bolivia top things to do and see

1 La Paz 3 Lake Titicaca The capital city is building up its 21st- The crystal-clear waters of the highest century credentials, but it still has its navigable lake in the world and, above, market streets where you can shop in the cloudless skies make this an essential place countless stores for multicoloured textiles to visit. Don’t stick to the shore, sail out and musical instruments, or head higher to the Isla del Sol, birthplace of the Inca up into the indigenous area for produce creation myth. Page 81. and traditional items. Page 28.

2 Tiwanaku Just a short ride from La Paz, Tiwanaku contains the remnants and artefacts of one of the most important pre-Inca civilizations in South America. Page 77.

4 • 4 Just three hours from La Paz, this town has a beautiful setting and is an ideal centre for trekking in the Cordillera Real and for cycling in the mountains or down to the river ports which will take you to Rurrenabaque. Page 97.

7 Potosí Silver from Potosí bankrolled the . What remains in the highest city in the world is a fascinating mix of colonial opulence and the workings of poor miners gleaning what they can from the tunnels in the silver mountain. Page 184. 5 The 'world’s most dangerous road' The most famous downhill adrenalin rush on two wheels in the country from the heights near La Paz past waterfalls and dizzying drops to in the Yungas. Pages 110 and 111. 6 Salar de Uyuni This is a vast white salt plain interspersed with the occasional cactus-covered island. Tours from either Uyuni or visit lakes of unimaginable colours, volcanic horizons and vast stretches of awe-inspiring emptiness. Page 149.

• 5 8 Sucre This attractive whitewashed colonial city is the seat of the republic’s judiciary and a lively student culture. Take the Sauromóvil to see some of the 5000 dinosaur footprints at nearby Cal Orcko, or explore the traditional textiles of the Jalq’a communities. Page 169. 9 Tarija 0 Torotoro National Park In the far south, Tarija is the centre of the In Potosí department, but most easily Bolivian wine trade, as well as other fruits reached from Cochabamba by a road and vegetables. Away from the main whose views change every 30 minutes, tourist path it may be, but it’s a charming Torotoro is a geologist’s paradise, with small city and on a good route to or from magnificent rock formations, fossils neighbouring . Page 201. from the ocean bed and dinosaur tracks. Page 231. A Rurrenabaque This is the starting point for tours upriver to community-based lodges in the jungles of Parque Nacional Madidi, or downriver to gallery forests and wetlands of the pampas. Expect to see plenty of wildlife on boat trips and hikes. Page 287.

6 • B Samaipata A short drive from Santa Cruz, Samaipata was an outpost of the Incas, who took advantage of a huge carved rock for their easternmost fortress. As well as ruins, there are waterfalls, a relaxing town and, nearby, the Che Guevara Trail. Page 250. C Amboró National Park At the convergence of the Amazon, the , the dry plains and the Cerrado, Amboró’s array of wildlife in its 11 recognized life zones is outstanding, and includes endangered cats and birds and more butterflies than anywhere else on earth. Page 259. D E Noel Kempff Mercado National Park UNESCO has recognized six surviving Jesuit mission churches as World Heritage Sites. This remote wilderness near the Brazilian Not only the beautiful architecture and border has more ecosystems in a single decoration survives, but also the baroque place than anywhere else on the planet music that was written and played here. and its table-top mountains, waterfalls, Page 265. forests and animal and plant species are considered by some to be the inspiration for Conan Doyle’s The Lost World. Page 277.

• 7 BRAZIL

PERU

Parque Nacional A m a z o n 15 Madidi B a s i n Parque Nacional Rurrenabaque Noel Kempff Area Protegeda 11 Mercado Apolobamba Trinidad

4 Sorata Yungas Lake Titicaca 5 Coroico San Ignacio 3 de Velasco Tiwanaku Parque LA PAZ Nacional Santa Ana 2 1 Tunari 14 San Rafael

Cochabamba Parque 13 C h i q u i t a n i a Nacional Santa Cruz San José Parque 10 Amboró 12 de la Sierra de Chiquitos P a n t a n a l Nacional Oruro Parque Samaipata Sajama Nacional El Fuerte Torotoro 8 Sucre G r a n C h a c o 6 Potosí Salar de 7 Uyuni CHILE Uyuni

9 Tupiza Tarija Reserva Eduardo Avaroa

N

ARGENTINA 100 km

100 miles La Paz

Tiwanaku BRAZIL Lake Titicaca Sorata

Parque Nacional A m a z o n 15 The 'world’s most Madidi B a s i n Parque Nacional dangerous road' Rurrenabaque Noel Kempff Area Protegeda 11 Mercado Apolobamba Trinidad Salar de Uyuni 6 4 Sorata Yungas Lake Titicaca Potosí 5 Coroico San Ignacio 3 de Velasco Tiwanaku Parque LA PAZ Nacional Santa Ana 2 1 Tunari 14 San Rafael Sucre

Cochabamba Parque 13 C h i q u i t a n i a Nacional Santa Cruz San José Parque 10 Amboró 12 de la Sierra de Chiquitos P a n t a n a l Tarija Nacional Oruro Parque Samaipata Sajama Nacional El Fuerte Torotoro 8 Torotoro National Park Sucre G r a n C h a c o 6 Potosí Rurrenabaque Salar de 7 Uyuni CHILE Uyuni PARAGUAY Samaipata

9 Tupiza Tarija Amboró National Park Reserva Eduardo Avaroa Chiquitania N

ARGENTINA Noel Kempff Mercado 100 km National Park 100 miles • 9

What to do

What to do from legendary mountain biking to trekking a thousand curves

Birdwatching for mountaineering), Apolobamba, Quimza Cruz and Occidental. The Birdwatching is just getting underway climbing season is May-September. in Bolivia as an organized activity. It In June-August the weather is offers great potential but requires better and more stable than in considerable effort. The country is any other major mountaineering estimated to have over 1300 bird area in the world. Proper technical species, about 40% of the total equipment, experience and/or a found in South America, which reputable guide are essential. A range from macaws to condors, number of summits are achievable and hummingbirds to rheas. All by acclimatized beginners with a national parks have opportunities for competent guide and the correct birdwatching, which can be combined equipment. Popular summits include: with other tours. Parque Nacional Huayna Potosí (6088 m; two days), Madidi has an estimated 900 bird Pequeño Alpamayo (5370 m; three species, and a couple of comfortable days), (6439 m; four days) and lodges. Parque Nacional Amboró has Bolivia's highest mountain, Sajama 850 species and is close to the resort (6542 m; four to five days). Other peaks towns of Samaipata and Buena Vista. of 6000 m or over are: Ancohuma Parque Nacional Tortoro is home to (6427 m), (6368 m), Chearoco the rare red-fronted macaw. (6104 m) and (6000 m). Reserva Eduardo Avaroa, visited on most salar tours, has three species Mountain biking of flamingo as well almost 70 other bird species. Experienced, fit and acclimatized riders can choose from a huge range of Climbing possibilities in Bolivia, with unlimited scope for exploration. At the same Bolivia has nearly 1000 peaks over time, a single tourist ride – dubbed the 5000 m (12 at or above 6000 m) in four ‘world’s most dangerous road’ – has cordilleras: the Real (the main area

Planning your trip What to do ● 21 Where to stay

ON THE ROAD Las mil curvas One of the highlights of the – hike in the Cordillera Where Apolobamba is a 4600-m pass reached by an intimidatingly steep slope. Climbing 500 m over loose stones in 1 km, the ascent is rendered a bit easier by a zigzag trail aptly nicknamed ‘las mil curvas’, the thousand curves. to stay Reaching the top brings quite a feeling of accomplishment, but don’t be too embarrassed if you are passed by a heavily laden little donkey carrying miners’ supplies. He does it all the time. become so popular with mainstream trip runs from Sorata to Charazani or visitors as to spawn an industry of Rurrenabaque, combining mountain its own. And for good reason, as biking, jeep and river travel. One- or this legendary route is spectacular. two-day biking trips are also offered Beginning at La Cumbre, a mountain from Sucre and Tarija. pass above La Paz at 4725 m where there is often snow, it drops more Trekking than 3600 m in around four hours and Of the many off-the-beaten-path 64 km to the subtropical jungle near travel opportunities in Bolivia, none Coroico. For most of the route the is as extensive or enticing as back- road is little more than a bumpy, rocky country trekking. There is hardly a ledge carved into the rock face of the better venue in all of South America mountains. It lives up to its reputation for the experienced, well-equipped for danger, so make sure you sign up and self-sufficient trekker who wants with a reputable operator; check all to explore new routes. In addition, equipment carefully before heading there are various established trails out and ride carefully. Some operators that have long been popular with also offer newer, more innovative independent trekkers and tour (or less hazardous) rides in the La agencies. Most of the latter are based Paz area, as well as other parts of the in La Paz, but there are others in places country. A demanding multi-day bike such as Potosí, Sucre and Tupiza.

22 ● Planning your trip What to do Where to stay

Where to stay from boutique hotel to wilderness camping

Hotels and hostales Hotels must display prices by law, but often do not. The number of stars awarded each hotel is also regulated, but not always accurate. The following terms likewise reflect the size and quality of an establishment (from largest and best, to smallest and simplest): hotel, hostal, residencial, alojamiento and casa de huéspedes. A pensión is a simple restaurant and may double as a place to sleep in smaller towns. For a selection of boutique hotels and resorts, see www.bolivianboutiquehotels.com. Camping Camping is best suited to the wilderness areas of Bolivia, away from towns, and people. Organized campsites, car or trailer camping does not exist here. Because of the abundance of cheap hotels you should never have to camp in populated areas Youth hostels Youth hostels or self-styled ‘backpackers’ are not necessarily cheaper than hotels. A number of mid-range residenciales are affiliated to Hostelling International (HI) i www.hihostels.com/destinations/bo/hostels; some others just say they are. Another website listing hostels is www.boliviahostels.com, but they are not necessarily affiliated to HI.

Price codes Where to stay Restaurants $$$$ over US$150 $$$ over US$12 $$$ US$66-150 $$ US$7-12 $$ US$30-65 $ US$6 and under $ under US$30 Price for a two-course meal for Price for a double room in one person, excluding drinks high season, including taxes. or service charge.

Planning your trip Where to stay ● 23 Central & southern highlands prehistoric footprints and the world’s highest city

Sucre and Potosí are the finest examples of Bolivia’s colonial heritage and two of its main tourist attractions. They lie only three hours apart but couldn’t be more different. Isolation has helped Sucre preserve its courtly charm and the assured confidence befitting the country’s official capital, legal centre and major university city. Surrounding this sparkling white colonial masterpiece is a hinterland of traditional weaving villages, which burst into life during market days and festivals. Dinosaur-hunters are also making tracks for Sucre, with the discovery of many prehistoric footprints. Potosí is not only the highest city in the world, at over 4000 m, but was once the largest, wealthiest city in the Americas. All around are reminders of its silver-mining heyday, while towering over the city is the giant pink hulk of Cerro Rico – Rich Mountain – from which the silver was extracted, at an unimaginable human cost. Visitors can join miners and burrow down into its bowels and experience what life was like for those who were forced to enter the ‘Mouth of Hell’. Further south is Tarija, a pleasant city with a delightful climate, known for its fruit and wines, and for its traditions, which set it apart from the rest of the country. Best for Colonial history  Fossils  Textiles  Wine 166 ● La Paz

Potosí

Sucre...... 169 Potosí...... 184 Tarija...... 201

Footprint picks H Dinosaur footprints around Sucre, page 173 The world’s largest palaeontological site. H Textile shopping, page 180 Traditional weaving in the Chuquisaca region. H Casa Nacional de Moneda, page 185 The National Mint is one of South America’s finest museums. H Cerro Rico mines, page 190 Fascinating but disturbing journey into a working mine. H Chapaco life in Tarija, page 202 One of the most laid-back and friendly towns in the country. H Wine tasting around Tarija, page 210 Bolivia’s only wine region has the highest vinyards in the world.

Best for Colonial history  Fossils  Textiles  Wine ● 167

Sucre I

Chullas Comarapa I I

Peña San I Mondo Grande

Pampagranda I

Parque Naciona l Colorada Isidro Samaipata I I Torotoro Mairana I Puerto Poso Angostur a I Izozog El Fuerte I Redondo

Rodeo Vallegrande I I

Florida I Sucre

Guadalupe I I Estancia Florida

Sapsi I

I Chuqui I Pucará Cabezas

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I I Soledad Ventilla I I Yotala I I I I Tarabuco Serrano I Izozog I I

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Aratical I

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Vaca Guzman I

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I

I I I

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Padcaya I

I

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I I I Muyuquiri I CHUQUISACA I

Tumusla I

Ubina Camargo Cuevo I Aduana

Palca Santa Elena I I

Higuero San Pedro Huacaya I I

I Carandayti

I

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I Villa Maracheti I

I

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Quechisia Villa I

Camatindi I I

Abecia I

II

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I Capirenda Vicent e I

Sella I

I I

I San Lorenzo Palos I

I Tupiza Blancos

I I

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TARIJA I Ibibobo

I Rios

I I Oruro

Chuqui I 6 Saladillo

I I

I

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I Chiquiaca Carapiri Campo Pajoso AY Yunchara I I

I Mojo Yacuiba I Algarrobal Villazón I I GU I Hito Esmeralda

La Quiaca RA

ARGENTINA PA

Bermejo Aguas Blancas

Footprint picks 1 Dinosaur footprints around Sucre, page 173 N 2 Textile shopping, page 180 3 Casa Nacional de Moneda, page 185 4 Cerro Rico mines, page 190 50 km 5 Chapaco life in Tarija, page 202 50 miles 6 Wine tasting around Tarija, page 210

168 ● Central & southern highlands Sucre

Sucre Sucre is sometimes referred to as La Ciudad Blanca, owing to the tradition that all buildings in the centre are painted in their original colonial white. This works to beautiful effect and in 1991 UNESCO declared the city a World Heritage Site. There are two universities, the older dating from 1624. Founded in 1538 as La Plata, Sucre became capital of the Audiencia of Charcas in 1559. Its name was later changed to Chuquisaca before the present name was adopted in 1825 in honour of the second president of the new republic. From 1825 to 1899 Sucre was the only capital of Bolivia; nowadays, with a population of 338,281, it remains the constitutional capital as it is home to Bolivia’s judicial branch although La Paz is the administrative one. La capitalidad remains an emotionally charged issue among sucrenses, who strive to see Sucre regain its status as the only capital.

Weather Sucre

January February March April May June 21°C 20°C 20°C 21°C 21°C 21°C * 11°C * 10°C) 10°C " 9°C ! 7°C ! 5°C 114mm 103mm 66mm 26mm 5mm .3mm

July August September October November December 20°C 21°C 22°C 22°C 22°C 22°C ! 5°C ! 6°C " 7°C " 9°C " 10°C ) 11°C 8mm 5mm 25mm 40mm 57mm 76mm

Central & southern highlands Sucre ● 169 Cochabamba

Cochabamba Colour map 2, B4. eat, drink and be merry in this appealing city

HOld town At the heart of the old town is the arcaded Plaza 14 de Septiembre with the cathedral i Mon-Fri 0800-1200, 1700-1900, Sat-Sun 0800-1200, dating from 1571, but much added to. Of the colonial churches nearby, the Convent and Museum of Santa Teresa i Baptista y Ecuador, T04-422 1252, guided tours only Mon-Fri 0900, 1000, 1100, 1430, 1330, 1630 (Sat), US$2.50, camera US$ 3 extra, original construction 1760-1790, has a lovely courtyard, a Sala Capitular with painted walls, many other paintings and a beautiful Coro (being restored in 2015). Museo Arqueológico i Jordán E-199 y Aguirre, T04-425 0010, www.museo. umss.edu.bo, Mon-Fri 0830-1800, guided tours in English Mon-Fri 1330-1600, US$3, is part of the Universidad de San Simón. The museum displays artefacts including Amerindian hieroglyphic scripts, mummies, and pre-Inca textiles, through to the colonial era. There is a lot to appreciate, but descriptions are in Spanish and the presentation is a bit dated. Casona Santiváñez i Santiváñez O-0156, Mon-Fri 0800-1200, 1430-1800, free, has a nice colonial patio, and exhibition of paintings and historic photographs.

North of the old town From Plaza Colón, at the north end of the old town, the wide Avenida Ballivián (known as El Prado) runs northwest to the wealthy modern residential areas; along it you can find restaurants and bars. Also in the north is the Patiño family’s Palacio Portales i Av Potosí 1450, T04-448 6414, guided tours in Spanish Tue-Fri 1530, 1630, 1730, 1800, in English 1600, 1700, in French 1600, Sat in Spanish at 0930, 1000, 1100, English 1030, 1130, French 1030, Sun Spanish 1100, English and French 1130, US$1.50. The gardens are open Tue-Fri 1500-1830, Sat-Sun 0900-1200. Built in French Renaissance style, furnished from Europe and set in 10 ha of gardens inspired by Versailles, the Patiño mansion was finished in 1927 but never occupied. The architectural style is predominantly French Renaissance. The great halls are filled with Napoleonic and Louis XV furniture. On the upper floor are chambers containing reproductions of the Sistine Chapel; the walls are covered in brocaded silk and it is decorated throughout in Carrara marble and paintings by Velásquez. There’s even a copy of the Alhambra in Granada. Everything imported and no expense spared, the Palacio Portales bears testament to inconceivable opulence. It is now the Centro Cultural Simón I Patiño i http://portal.fundacionpatino.org, with an excellent art gallery in the basement. Take a taxi (five minutes from the centre) or micro G from Avenida San Martín. Next to Palacio Portales is the very nice Museo de Historia Natural Alcide d'Orbigny i Av Potosí 1458 y , T04-448 6969, Mon-Fri 0830-1230, 1430-1830, US$0.65, named after the famous 19th-century French naturalist. It houses natural history collections of international importance.

220 ● Cochabamba & beyond Cochabamba Cochabamba

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Av Las Heroínas Av colonial era. There is a lot to appreciate, but descriptions are in Spanish and the o i La Compañía San presentation is a bit dated. Casona Santiváñez Santiváñez O-0156, Mon-Fri 1 Francisco 0800-1200, 1430-1800, free, has a nice colonial patio, and exhibition of paintings GeneralAchá Bolívar Plaza14 de n La Paz & Orur La Paz

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Cochabamba & beyond Cochabamba ● 221 BACKGROUND Cochabamba The name Cochabamba is derived from joining the Quechua words ‘cocha’ and ‘pampa’, which together mean swampy plain. This once swampy plain has likely been inhabited for a very long time, to judge by the wealth of pre-Columbian artefacts unearthed in 2008 at Cundisa, just one block from the main plaza. The Spanish city was founded in 1574 by Sebastián Barba de Padilla and named Villa de Oropeza in honour of the Count and Countess of Oropeza, parents of the Viceroy Francisco de Toledo, who chartered and promoted the settlement of the place. During the heyday of Potosí’s silver boom, the Cochabamba Valley developed into the primary source of food for the population of that agriculturally unproductive area. Cochabamba came to be known as the ‘breadbasket of Bolivia’ because of its high volume of maize and wheat production. Today, the valley is still an important agricultural centre, producing not only abundant cereal crops but also orchard and citrus fruits, as well as accounting for the bulk of the country’s dairy products. This high level of economic activity has seen Cochabamba grow to become Bolivia’s fourth largest city, wilth a population of 650,038.

East of the old town East of the centre is Cerro de San Pedro, at the top of which stands an enormous statue of Cristo de la Concordia. A modern cable car i Tue-Sat 1000-1800, Sun 0900- 1900, US$1.50 return, will whizz you to the top from the east end of Heroínas. Steps up to the statue are not safe, but there is a road for taxis, US$1.50. The 40.4-m, 2200-ton statue, finished in 1994, is claimed to be the biggest depiction of Christ in the world. It gives a 360º view over the city and its bowl-like setting. North of Cerro de San Pedro is the Jardín Botánico Martín Cárdenas i Av Gral Galindo y R Rivera, daily 1030-1800, with pleasant avenues of palms and jacarandas.

South of the old town To the south of the old town lie the bus and train stations and one of the best markets in Bolivia. The huge and fascinating La Cancha market i between Aguirre, Punata, República and Pulacayo, is open all week but best on Wednesday and Saturday when it is packed with campesinos and trading spills over into surrounding streets. It has four main sections and various offshoots, with a vast array of foodstuffs and local goods. Souvenirs can be found mainly in the San Antonio section, Avenida Esteban Arze y Punata, but you can find things of interest everywhere inside.

222 ● Cochabamba & beyond Cochabamba Listings Cochabamba map p221

Tourist information One of the best hotels in Cochabamba, pool, tennis courts, business centre, Centro de Información Turística airport transfers, parking. Virtual (CITV) Plaza Colón 448, T04-466 2277, www. $$ Ginas cochabamba.gob.bo/Turismo/index, México 346 entre España y 25 de Mayo, Mon-Fri 0800-1200, 1430-1830. T422 2925, www.ginashostal.web.bo. This is the municipal office and the best Has a variery of rooms for 1-5 persons, option. Every Sun a free Bus Turístico includes breakfast, safe box in rooms, leaves here at 1000 and 1500 for a 2¼-hr convenient location in the heart of the city tour. Other offices at the bus station city, monthly rates available. (Mon-Fri 0730-1130, 1730-2230) and $$ Monserrat Jorge Wilstermann airport (Mon-Fri España 0342, T04-452 1011, 0730-1130, 1700-2100). There is a kiosk http://hotelmonserrat.com. behind the cathedral (Pasaje Catedral, Older-style hotel near many bars and Esteban Arze y Sucre, Mon-Fri 0900- restaurants, helpful, good service, 1200, 1430-1830) but it’s not always convenient, cafetería, buffet breakfast. open, and another at the Cristo de la Concordia. $$ Regina Reza 0359, T425 4629, Tourist police www.hotelreginabolivia.com/regina. Plaza 14 de Septiembre, north side, Spacious, efficient, with breakfast, T04-450 3880. restaurant. Where to stay $$-$ Running Chasqui Hostel España 449 casi México, T04-425 0559, However attractive their prices, places to www.runningchaski.com.bo. stay south of Av Aroma and near the bus Good new hostel in the nightlife zone, station are unsafe at all times. private rooms with bath, and dorms $$$ Aranjuez for girls only and mixed, US$11-13 pp, Av Buenos Aires E-0563, T428 0076, each dorm has bathroom, lockers with www.aranjuezhotel.com. electric sockets, lots of information and The most beautiful of the luxury full hostel services. hotels with a nice garden and lots of $ Hostal Florida style, 4-star, small, good restaurant, 25 de Mayo S-0583, T425 7911. jazz in the bar Fri and Sat night, small Cheaper with shared bath, hot water, swimming pool open to public (US$1). noisy, popular, safe deposit box, Recommended. breakfast. $$$ Gran Hotel Cochabamba $ Hostal Maya Plaza de la Recoleta E-0415, T448 9520, Colombia 710 y Suipacha, T425 9701. www.granhotelcochabamba.com. Includes breakfast, private bath, hot water, central.

Cochabamba & beyond Cochabamba ● 223 $ Hostal Ñawpa House The most delicious meat you can find España 250, T452 7723. in Cochabamba. Simple rooms with electric shower, $$$-$$ La Estancia large courtyard, laundry facilities, book Pasaje Boulevard de la Recoleta 786, exchange. T04-424 9262. $ Residencial Familiar Best steak in town, salads and Sucre E-0554, T422 7988. international food in this traditional Secure, cheaper without bath, electric restaurant. showers, sunny courtyard. Its annex at $$$-$$ Tunari 2 25 de Mayo N-0234 (entre Colombia y Av Ballivián 676 y La Paz, T04-452 8588. Ecuador), T422 7986, has a big courtyard, Family-run restaurant specializing shared bath, hot water, comfortable. in local meat dishes (half-portions available), good filling food, also Camping sandwiches. 13 km west of the centre in Callajchullpa district, Av Costanera y Yanparticuy, $$ La Cantonata T04-431 9533, or 7140 3565, España y Mayor Rocha, T04-425 9222. [email protected]. Pleasant Italian restaurant with US$10 pp, shared toilet/bath facilities, good food and service, no smoking. breakfast extra, organic produce, Recommended. barbecue and campfire facilities, internet $$ Sole Mio and mobile reception, laundry extra, Av América 826 y Pando, T04-428 3379. games. Taxi service, 40 mins from A smart Neapolitan pizza restaurant, airport, 35 mins bus terminal, 20 mins delicious, also good for desserts. to supermarket; 10-min walk to public Attentive service. transport, 15-min walk to organic farm. New in 2015. $$-$ Paprika Chuquisaca 688 y Antezana, www. Restaurants paprika.com.bo. Opens in the evening. Nice atmosphere, international food, North of the Río Rocha on the Pasaje good cocktails and desserts. Boulevard de la Recoleta and Av Pando is a group of restaurants and bars. $ Gopal España 250, in same precinct as Ñawpa $$$-$$ Casa de Campo House. Open 1130-1400, closed Sun. Pasaje Boulevard de la Recoleta 618, Bolivian Hare-Krishna, vegetarian buffet T04-424 3937. lunch. In the same garden is Mocafé, Large menu of mostly local dishes, open daily 0800-2400 (Sun 0900-2100) all-in-one price, very popular, open for juices, coffee, teas, breakfasts and from 1200 daily, also has peña, book light meals, cocktails and wines. at weekend evenings. $$$-$$ Churrasquería Tunari Cafés Pasaje Boulevard de la Recoleta, There are several cafés at the junction of T04-448 8153. the Pasaje Catedral and Esteban Arze.

224 ● Cochabamba & beyond Cochabamba Café París dishes, desserts, lots of drinks Bolívar, corner of Plaza 14 de Septiembre. and coffees. Serves good coffee and crêpes, La Muela del Diablo traditional atmosphere. Potosí 1392 y Portales, next to Palacio Casablanca Portales. 25 de Mayo entre Venezuela y Ecuador. Bolivian rock music, theatre groups, Attractive, buzzing, good food, mostly German beer. pastas, pizzas and Mexican, and a wide Na Cúnna selection of coffee, popular for wine and Av Salamanca 577, T04-423 0729. cocktails in the evening, indoor games Thu-Sat from 1900. and music. Irish pub and restaurant, live music. Espresso Café Bar They also serve Guinness. Av Ballivián 537 just off Plaza Colón. Open 0830-2230. Entertainment Coffees, including Bolivian and specials, Art galleries and cultural centre juices, beers and other drinks, cakes and There are several art galleries in the snacks. Another branch on the Pasaje centre, such as Salón Municipal de Catedral y Arze. Verano (Plaza 14 de Septiembre); Galería Los Castores Walter Terrazas (Av Heroínas y España, Ballivián 790 y Oruro. Open 0800-1415. T04-422 7561). Popular, good for salteñas. 2 other Casa de la Cultura, Av Heroínas 399 branches. y 25 de Mayo, T04-425 2090, https:// casadelaculturacochabamba.wordpress. Bars and clubs com. Many regular cultural activities. The main nightlife district is on España, Theatre and cinema Ecuador, Mayor Rocha and Av Ballivian For cinema, see www.cinecenter. (El Prado) with lots of bars and a few com.bo. restaurants. mARTadero, Av 27 de Agosto entre Wander around and see what takes your Ollantay y Ladislao Cabrera, T04-458 8778, fancy, eg La Rambla (España y Mayor www.martadero.org. Cultural and artistic Rocha), a small, cheerful place for a drink; centre for local and international artists, Ruta 105 (Mayor Rocha 311), cocktails exhibitions, and events, in a refurbished and soft drinks, light bites, DJ. slaughterhouse. Daily 1500-1800. Micros/trufis P, Q, and 212 to Plaza de Cocafé Arte los Arrieros. Ecuador y Antezana 279. Teatro Achá, España 280 entre Heroínas Friendly, family atmosphere, good place y Bolívar, T04-425 8054. The city’s for foreigners to meet. Street musicians oldest cultural centre, with monthly always pass by to show off their skills. presentations. El Caracol Teatro Hecho a Mano, Av Uyuni 635 Mayor Rocha entre Baptista y España. entre Puente Recoleta y Potosí, T04-448 High ceilings, Mediterranean-themed

Cochabamba & beyond Cochabamba ● 225 Getting there

Practicalities Getting there Bolivia

Getting there ...... 359 Getting around ...... 360 Essentials A-Z...... 366 Index...... 378 Acknowdgements...... 382 About the author...... 383 Credits...... 384 Colour maps ...... 385

● 358 Getting there

Getting there

Air International flights to Bolivia arrive either at La Paz (LPB) or Santa Cruz (VVI). There are frequent domestic flights between La Paz and Santa Cruz, as well as plentiful bus services. For airport tax, see page 373.

From Europe Air Europa (www.aireuropa.com) and BoA (Boliviana – www.boa.bo) offer direct flights from Europe to Bolivia, four times a week each from Madrid to Santa Cruz and, in the latter case, on to La Paz. Alternatively, connections can be made in Miami, São Paulo, Buenos Aires, Santiago or Lima.

From North America Miami’s international airport is the only air transport gateway linking Bolivia with North America. American (www.aa.com) flies daily to La Paz and Santa Cruz. LAN (www.lan.com) has services from Miami to Bolivia via Lima. From other North American cities, change in Miami.

From Australia and New Zealand There are three options: 1) To Los Angeles (USA) with Qantas/American Airlines (code share, www.qantas.com.au), or Air New Zealand (www.airnewzealand. co.uk), continuing to Bolivia via Miami (see above) or via Bogotá with Avianca (www.avianca.com); 2) From Auckland to Santiago, Chile, continuing to La Paz with LAN; 3) To Buenos Aires (Argentina) from Sydney and Auckland with Aerolíneas from December 2015 (www.aerolineas.com.ar), continuing to Bolivia with various South American carriers. These are all expensive long-haul routes; round-the-world and Circle Pacific fares may be convenient alternatives.

From South America There are direct flights to La Paz and/or Santa Cruz from Asunción, Bogotá, Buenos Aires, Cuzco, Iquique (Chile), Lima, Santiago, Salta (Argentina) and São Paulo. Amaszonas’ (www.amaszonas.com) daily flight between La Paz and Cuzco is convenient for tourists visiting Bolivia and Peru.

Road, rail, lake and river Bolivia has numerous borders with Argentina, Brazil, Chile, Paraguay and Peru, and they are heavily used, see Border crossings box, page 360.

Practicalities Getting there ● 359 Index A Entries in bold refer to maps Kid 160 119 Concepción 267 A B buying textiles 327 children, travelling Condoriri 51 accident and Background 308 with 366 Condor K'ak'a 179 emergency 366 Cochabamba 222 C Chile Copacabana 85, 85 Acción Democrática La Paz 37 Hito Cajones 155 border crossing Cachimayu 183 Nacionalista 317 Potosí 188 Chimane 343 95 Caiza 197 accommodation 23 Santa Cruz 244 Chipaya 141, 343 hiking 89 Cala Cala cave price codes 23 Tarija 203 343 Coqueza 142 paintings 132 97 Balneario Miraflores Chiquitos 265 Cordillera Camargo 197 agriculture 321 196 Chirca 118 Apolobamba 102 Camino del Inca 213 Aguas Blancas Bañados del Izozog Chiriguano 343 trekking 106, 108 Camino de Oro 99 (Argentina) 214 277 Chochís 271 Cordillera de Sama Camiri 180 Aguas Calientes 272 Banzer, Hugo 316 Chola Paceño 40 213 camping 23 Aiquile 233 Barrientos, René 316 Choquetanga cordilleras 74, 346 Candelaria 179 air travel 359, 360 beliefs 344 Grande 135 116 Cañón Colorado del 18, 335 Bella Vista 253, 299 Choro Trail 49 Coroico 112, 112 Cinti 197 Alcaya 141 Beni wildlife 288 Chullpapata 196 Corredor de Cañón de Torotoro Alianza 142 Bermejo 214, 253 116, Conservacíon 231 Allen, J 141 Betanzos 183 117, 117 Vilcabamba– Carabuco 95 Almacén 298 birdwatching 21 trekking 118 Amboró 289 113, 287 347 Bitti, Bernardo 338 Chuquiago 158 costumes 325 Cárdenas, Víctor Altiplano de Tarija Bolívar, Simón 312 Chusakeri 140 Cotapata National Hugo 317 198 border crossings 360 Chutillos 20 Park and car hire 364 Alto Perú 312 Argentina Circuitos Integrated Use Caripe 137 Amazon 284 Aguas Blancas Bioculturales 157 Area 111 128, 334 dolphin 291 214 Ciudadela de Piedra Cotoca 242 dances 129 jungle tours 287 Bermejo 214 198 couriers 372 Oruro 18 wildlife 291 Villazón 160 climate 349 Culpina 197 Santa Cruz 19 Ancohuma 98 Brazil See also weather Culpina K 155 cave paintings 182, 95 Arroyo Concep- climbing 21, 46 culture 324 198, 213 Antaquilla 104 ción 281 Sorata 98 Curahuara de Cavernas de Apa Apa Ecological Brasiléia 305 Cliza 229 Carangas 137 Repechón 233 Park 119 Guajará-Mirim Cobija 304 customs 344 Central Obrera Apolobamba South 303 coca 39, 187, 234, cycling 21 Boliviana 315 trek 106 Guayaramerín 322 world's 'most Cerro Aramayo, Víctor 303 cocaine 322 dangerous Chataquila 182 Carlos 159 Chile Cochabamba 216, road' 111 Istipata 97 Arandia, Edgar 341 Chungará 139 221 La Mina 253 Arani 230 Colchane 139 history 222 D Mutún 280 Area Natural de Hito Cajones 155 listings 223 Obispo 182 dance 129, 331 Manejo Integrado Pisiga 139 sights 220 Rico 311 Day of the Dead 344 San Matías 272 Tambo Quemado transport 219, 227 Uchumachi 113 de Berrio, Gaspar Area Protegida 139 weather 219 Villa 141 Miguel 339 Apolobamba 105 Peru Codo de los Andes Chaco 116, 355 de Castro, José Arnal, Enrique 341 Cobija 306 253 Chaco War 315 Gil 339 art 340 Copacabana 95 Coimata 212 cha’lla 129 de Córdoba, Manuel arts and crafts 324 Desaguadero 95 Coimbra, Gil 340 Challapata 140 339 Atlantis in the Andes Iñapari 306 Coipasa Village 141 Chantani 142 de la Cruz Tapia, 141 95 Colchani 152 Chaquí 183, 196 Juan 340 Aymara 342 bowler hat 40 Collpa Ciaca 230 Charazani 102 de la Cueva, Gaspar Aymara kingdoms Bramadero 182 colonial rule 311 Chataquila 181 338 309, 310 Buena Vista 261, 261 Comarapa 256, Chaunaca 182 de la Puente, Diego 343 bus travel 363 258, 261 Che Guevara Trail 338 Ayque 142 Butch Cassidy and Conan Doyle, Sir 258 de la Reza, Jorge 340 the Sundance Arthur 279

378 ● Index FOOTPRINT Features 24 hours in La Paz 32 La hoja sagrada or the Devil’s leaf? A man’s gotta chew 187 234 A tale of two outlaws 160 Las mil curvas 22 Band on the run 257 Origins of Oruro’s carnival 334 Behind the mask 333 Reviving the past 180 Bolivia fact file 310 Saving the vicuña 103 Checking in 24 The Chaco War 315 Discovering the Lost World 279 The debonair dolphin 291 The history of Alasitas 335 Evo Morales 319 The Jesuits in Bolivia 268 From Africa to the Yungas 118 The ‘most dangerous road in the Fruit salad 27 world’? 111 Healers of the Andes 105 The Renaissance priest 271 Invoking blessings 129 The sacred lake 92 Killer fish 305 Tiwanaku culture 80 Knight in shining armour 253 War of the Pacific 313 La Chola Paceña 40 Wildlife of the Beni 288 La 131 Wineries of Tarija 210 del Prado, Marina El Cañón del Inca Música Guerra Federal 314 Incahuasi 197 Núñez 341 158 Renacentista Guevara de la Serna, Incamachay 182 de Rojas, Cecilio electricity 367 y Barroca Ernesto 'Che' 256, Incas 310 Guzmán 340 El Fuerte 251, 252 Americana 19 257 Inca Trail 213 Desaguadero 95 El Puente 198 Pujllay 19 Independence 312 de Sucre, Antonio embassies and San Ignacio de H Inkallajta 233 José 312 consulates 367 Moxos 20 hats 327 Inka-Rakay 228 dinosaur 173 Entre Ríos 159, 212 flamingos 153 healers 105 Inkarrakana 233 disabled travellers Epizana 233 flora and fauna 353 health 368 insurance 370 366 Escara 141 Florida 277 highlands 166, 356 Ipati 180 dolphins 291 95 food 25 history 309 Iscayachi 198 Don Diego 183 Estación Biológica fruits 27 holidays and festivals Isla de la Luna 91 Drexel, Francisco del Beni 298 367 Isla del Sol 90 Martín 339 Estenssoro, Víctor G hotels 23 Isla Incahuasi 152 drink 26 Paz 314 Gamarra, Gregorio price codes 23 Iturralde, Zenón 340 drugs 367 Estrecho de Bala 288 338 Huañacota 135, 138 dyeing 326 García Meza, Luis Huari 140 J F 316 Huatajata 81 Jalq’a communities E Falda la Queñua 198 geography 346 Huayculi 230 181 economy 321 festivals 18, 333, 367 geology 346 Huayna Potosí 50 Jesuit missions 265 Eduardo Avaroa Alasitas 18 Gil Imana 341 history 268 National Reseve Gran Poder 20 I transport 266, 275 18, 334 Gruta de la Galaxia 153 Ibibobo 263 Jesuits in Bolivia 268 El Alto 45 Carnaval de Santa 152 jewellery 328 Cruz 19, 247 113 Illampu 98 Feria 16 de Illampu Circuit 99 Jirira 142 Julio 45 Chutillos 20 95 Julo 138 Feria 16 de Guaraní 343 Illimani 51 El Angosto 159 Illimani Lookout 44 jungle tours 287 El Cañón 158 Julio 45 Guaravo 343 Junthuma geysers Gran Poder 20 Guayaramerín 303 immigration offices 376 138

Index ● 379 La Paz continued Mirador del Iminapi Pantoja, Miguel Puerto Maldonado K Miraflores 41 97 Alandia 340 (Peru) 290 Kaa-Iya del Gran Parque Mirador Mojo 343 Pariti 84 81 Chaco National Laikakota 42 money 371 Parker, Robert Leroy Puerto Suárez 281 Park 277 restaurants 56 Monteagudo 180 160 Puerto Varador 298 Kalahuta 84 safety 31 Montero 259 Parque Ecológico Pujzara 213 105 shopping 62 Morales, Evo 317, 319 Yvaga Guazu 242 256 Kari Kari Lakes 196 40, 41 most dangerous Parque Ecoturístico Pumamachay 182 Khoa 129 tourist information road in the world Machía 232 Puna 348 knitting 326 51 111 Parque Nacional Punata 230 tours 63 mountain biking 21 Amboró 259, 260 Punilla 181 L transport 30, 67 Movimiento al Carrasco 232 trekking 48 Socialismo 318 Histórico Santa Q La Chola Paceña 40 weather 30 Movimiento de Cruz la Vieja Qala Qala cave La Cumbre 46 Zona Sur 42, 42 la Izquierda 270 La Diablada 19, 128, paintings 132 La Puerta 195 Revolucionaria 316 Kaa-Iya del Gran Quebrada Palala 157 129, 131 La Reconquistada Movimiento Chaco 277 Lago Quebrada Seca 158 Trail 48 Nacional Madidi 288 Quechua 343 Naranjani 135 La Siberia 256 Revolucionario 314 Noel Kempff Poopó 140 Quetena Chico 155 Las Lomas de Arena Movimiento Mercado 277 Quetena Grande 155 Uru Uru 140 del Palmar 244 Revolucionario Otuquis 280 Laguna Quijarro 281 La Torre 158 Túpac Katari de Sajama 136 Quila Quila 182 Blanca 155 La Yunga 260 Liberación 317 San Matías 281 Chillata 99 Quillacas 141 Lechín Oquendo, music 329 Serranía del Iñao 228 Colorada 154 Juan 315 musical instruments 180 de Tarapaya 195 135 LGBT travellers 370 330 Torotoro 231 Quiroga, Jorge 317 Glaciar 99 literature 335 Muyupampa 180 Tunari 228 La Baíqui 299 Llapallapani 140 Pastogrande 119 R Normandia 298 141 N Pazña 140 Suárez 298 Longabaugh, Harry Paz Zamora, Jaime rail travel 359 Verde 154, 256 national parks 349, Ravelo 181 Alonzo 160 350, 352 316 Lagunas 137 Lost World, The 279 Pelechuco 104 religion 344 Bravas 213 138 Reserva Biológica lowland forests 353 Niño, Luis 339 people 342 de Tajzara 213 Pérez Holguín, Cordillera de Sama La Higuera 181, 256 M Melchor 338 213 Lakathiya 98 O Pilón Lajas Biosphere Reserva El Palmar Lake Huiñamarca 84 Macaya 138 180 Machacamarca 140 Observatorio Reserve 290, 294 Lake Titicaca 74, 81, Astronómico piranha 305 Reserva Nacional 92, 347 Magdalena 299 de Fauna Andina Mallasa 43 Nacional 211 Pojo 236 legend 92 Ocabaya 119 police and the Eduardo Avaroa lake transport 359 Manasaya thermal 153, 156 baths 138 Okinawa 259 law 371 La Muela del Diablo opening hours 371 politics 309 Reserva Nacional 43 Trail 99 Tariquía 214 maps 365 Oploca 158 Polques 155 land and Oruro 125, 127 population 310 restaurants 26 environment 346 Maragua 182 price codes 23 Marca Rumi 182 carnival 18, 128 postal services 372 language 370 weather 126 Postrervalle 253 Revolution 1952 La Patanka 213 medical services 369 315, 337 Mercado, Melchor Potolo 182 La Paz 28, 33, Potosí 184, 186, 195 Riberalta 303 34,38, 68 María 340 P Rimsa, Juan 340 Mesa, Carlos 317 history 188 accommodation 344 mine tours 190 Río Kala Kala 118 52 Mesa, José García Pacha Trek 107 Río Lauca 138 340 pottery 328 activities 63 Pacheco, María pre-conquest history Río Mamoré 298 bars and clubs 60 metalwork 328 Luisa 341 river transport 359 migration 323 309 city centre 33 packing 364 price codes 23 road travel 359, 361 day walks 46 military coups 316 Padilla 180 road travel tips 362 Mina Chambillaya public holidays 367 entertainment 60 painting 338 Puente Villa 116 Rodríguez, Eduardo festivals 61 135 Palca Canyon 44 318 mining 189, 322 Puerta del Diablo history 37 Pampa Aullagas 141 158 Romero, Walter medical services Mirador de Cóndores pampas tours 290 Solón 340 253 Puerto Acosta 95 369 Pantanal 356 Puerto Busch 280

380 ● Index Rurrenabaque 287, Santa Cruz 238, Tarapaya 195 La Ruta del Oso 135 293 241, 243 Tarata 229 Las mil curvas 22 W jungle tours 287 history 244 Tarija 201 Sorata 98 95, 97 pampas tours 290 listings 244 altiplano 212 Takesi Trail 48 Warnes 259 Ruta del Mango 135 medical services history 203 Trans-Cordillera War of the Pacific Ruta Intersalar 141 369 wineries 210 Trek 99 313, 314 sights 242 tax 373 Yungas 112 weather 17 S transport 241, 249 teacher travellers Zongo Valley 49 Cochabamba 219 weather 241 373 Trinidad 298, 299 Copacabana 82 Sabaya 138, 141 Santa Cruz, Andrés telephone 373 Túpac Katari 312 La Paz 30 Sacabaya 138 312 textile materials and Tupiza 157, 159 Oruro 126 safety 372 Santa Rosa de techniques 325 Santa Cruz 241 Sajama 137, 138 Yacuma 290 textiles 180, 324, 325 U Sucre 169 Sakha Waya 116 Santiago de Tiahuanaco. Ugalde, Gastón 341 weights and Salar de Coipasa Chiquitos 272 See Tiwanaku measures 377 141, 144 Ugalde, Manuel 339 Santo Corazón 272 time 374 Unduavi 110 Wi-Fi 373 Salar de Uyuni 144, San Vicente 159 tipping 374 wildlife 288, 291, 353 150, 152 Uru 343 savannah 355 Tiwanaku 77, 77, 309 Uyuni 144, 145, 145 wine 210 safety 146 Schmidt, Father Tiwanaku culture 80 women travellers tours 151 Martin 271 Toco 229 V 373 Salinas 214 sculpture 338 Tomarapi 137 woodcarving 329 Salinas de Garci Serranía de Tomatitas 211 vaccinations 368 Mendoza 141 Aguaragüe 212 Tomina 180 Valcarcel, Roberto Y Samaipata 250, 251 Serranía de Chiquitos Torotoro 231 341 San Borja 287, 298 Valeriani 46 Yacuiba 263 271 Toroyoj 158 Yamparáez 179 San Buenaventura Serranía Volcanes 253 Torre Huayco 158 Valle Alto 229 287 Valle Central 209 Yampupata 89 Sikilini 117 Torres, Juan José 316 Yampupata Sánchez de Lozada, Siles Zuazo, Hernán Totora 233 Valle de la Gonzalo 317 Concepción 211 Peninsula 89, 89 315 tourism 322 116 San Cristóbal 152 228 tourist information Valle de la Luna 43 San Ignacio de Valle de las Animas Yanacachi 2, B2 116 Sorata 97, 98 374 Yotala 183youth Moxos 20, 298 climbing 98 tour operators 374 44 San Ignacio de Valle de los Machos hostels 23 trekking 98 traditional medicine Yucumo 287 Velasco 267 Spanish colonization 105 158 San Javier 265 Vallegrande 181, 256 Yunga Cruz 49 311 Trans-Cordillera trekking 49 San José de student travellers Trek 99 vegetation 353 Chiquitos 270 vicuña 103 Yungas 47, 74, 109, 373 transport 359-365 112, 348, 355 San José de Sucre 169, 171 air 360 Villa Abecia 198 Uchupiamonas Villa Juan J Pérez 102 Afro- 118 listings 173 road 361 trekking 112 290 medical services train 365 Villamontes 263 San José mine 128 Villa Rivera 230 Yupanqui, Francisco 369 trekking 22, 46, 89 Tito 339 San Juan 155, 280 sights 170 Choro Trail 49 Villaroel, Gualberto San Lorenzo 211 weather 169 Chulumani 118 314 San Miguel del Sud-Yungas 116 Condoriri 51 Villa San Juan 135 Z Bala 289 Suriqui 84 Cordillera Villa Serrano 181 Zona Río Pimiento San Miguel de symbolism 326 Apolobamba Villa Tunari 232 280 Velasco 267 106 Villavicencio, Zongo Valley 49 San Pablo 84 T Huayna Potosí 50 Antonio 340 Zuazo, Hernán San Pedro 197 Illimani 51 Villazón 160, 163 Siles 314 San Pedro cave 97 Tacaquina 198 Inca Trail 213 visas 376 Zudáñez 180 San Rafael 267 Tahua 142 La Reconquistada Volcán Tunupa 141 San Ramón 299 Takesi Trail 48 Trail 48 Santa Ana 267 Tarabuco 179

Index ● 381 Credits Footprint credits Publishing information Editor: Felicity Laughton Footprint Bolivia Production and layout: Patrick Dawson 6th edition Maps: Robert Kunstaetter, Kevin Feeney © Footprint Handbooks Ltd Colour section: Angus Dawson September 2015

Publisher: Patrick Dawson ISBN: 978 1 909268 66 1 Managing Editor: Felicity Laughton CIP DATA: A catalogue record for this Administration: Elizabeth Taylor book is available from the British Library Advertising sales and marketing: John Sadler, Kirsty Holmes, Debbie Wylde ® Footprint Handbooks and the Footprint mark are a registered Photography credits trademark of Footprint Handbooks Ltd Front cover: Galyna Andrushko/Shutterstock.com Back cover: Top: Simon Dannhauer/Shutterstock. Published by Footprint com. Bottom: abc7/Shutterstock.com Colour section Inside front cover: Galyna 6 Riverside Court Andrushko/Shutterstock.com Page 1: Galyna Lower Bristol Road Andrushko/Shutterstock.com. Page 2: Takuji Oishi/ Bath BA2 3DZ, UK Shutterstock.com. Page 4: javarman/Shutterstock. T +44 (0)1225 469141 com, Rafal Cichawa/Shutterstock.com, Free Wind 2014/Shutterstock.com. Page 5: Noamfein/ F +44 (0)1225 469461 Dreamstime.com, Chris Howey/Shutterstock. footprinttravelguides.com com, Steffen Foerster/Shutterstock.com, Jess Kraft/Shutterstock.com. Page 6: Free Wind 2014/ Distributed in the USA by Shutterstock.com, Cory Smith/Shutterstock.com, Ben Box. Page 7: Jess Kraft/Shutterstock.com, National Book Network, Inc. Jürgen Ritterbach/SuperStock, Pyty/Shutterstock. com, J.Enrique Molina/Album, Jearu/Shutterstock. Every effort has been made to ensure com. Page 10: Elzbieta Sekowska/Shutterstock. that the facts in this guidebook are com. Page 11: Eduardo Rivero/Shutterstock.com. Page 12: Paul Clarke/shutterstock.com, Jess Kraft/ accurate. However, travellers should still Shutterstock.com. Page 13: MP cz/Shutterstock. obtain advice from consulates, airlines, com. Page 14: Yongyut Kumsri/Shutterstock. etc about travel and visa requirements com, Andrea Izzotti/Shutterstock.com. Page 15: before travelling. The authors and Andre Dib/Shutterstock.com, Magiturismo, Eye Ubiquitous/SuperStock. Page 16: Ian Trower/ publishers cannot accept responsibility SuperStock. for any loss, injury or inconvenience Duotones Page 28: gary yim/Shutterstock.com, however caused. Page 74: flocu/Shutterstock.com, Page 122: Andrey Gpntarev/Shutterstock.com, Page 166: Jess Kraft/Shutterstock.com, Page 216: Jess All rights reserved. No part of this Kraft/Shutterstock.com, Page 238: Jess Kraft/ publication may be reproduced, stored Shutterstock.com, Page 284: Elzbieta Sekowska/ in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in Shutterstock.com any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or Printed in Spain by GraphyCems otherwise without the prior permission of Footprint Handbooks Ltd.

384 ● Credits Footprint Mini Atlas Bolivia

1 5

Riberalta Cobija El Choro BRAZIL

PERU

Parque Nacional Madidi Parque Nacional Noel Kempff Mercado Rurrenabaque Trinidad San Borja Mapiri

Lake Sorata Ascención Concepción Titicaca Coroico LA PAZ Santa Ana Tihuanaco San Rafael Cochabamba Parque Nacional Amboró San José Oruro Sajama Santa Cruz de Chiquitos Samaipata de la Sierra Puerto 2 Sucre Suárez Potosí Salar de Camiri 4 Uyuni Uyuni Chiguana Reserva Tarija de Fauna Tupiza Andina Eduardo Avaroa PARAGUAY 3

CHILE ARGENTINA

Altitude in metres Paved road 4000 3000 Unpaved all weather road 2000 Seasonal unpaved road, track N 1000 500 Railway 200 Salt lake 0 100 km Neighbouring country 100 miles Map 1 Nueva M anoa N

Fortaleza

Puerto Arar a 50 km

50 miles Rio Abuná u an M o ri api M ío Buena Vista R Villa Bella A A BRAZIL Rio Yata Loma Santa Rosa Alta Guajará-Mirim de Abuna Belen Dos Calles Guayaramerín n Assis Brasil Río Orthó Riberalta Rio Chipamanu Estrella Nacebe Iñapari Santa San Pedr o Santa Ana Elena Puerto Rico P A N D O Puerto Gonzalo M oreno Cobija ios Ivon Mukden e D re d Río ad Tah ío M Porvenir uamanu Conquista R La Emboscada Tres Estrellas Nueva Beni Ethea Río

Fortaleza Río Manuripi re de Dio Florencia El Choro Extrem a d s R a ío M V o e í rd R e

o t i c e San Silvestr e n Puerto Libertad e B Avaroa ío R

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B Río Iténez (Guap B o

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n I Puerto Siles a t 5 o S n

o a í m PERU Laguna R a Gisebra s Matequa San Joaq uín

Río Heath Bella Vista Laguna Roja Aguada San Ramón L A P A Z Magdalena Guarayos Yata Exaltació n Alto Madidi San Ignacio Las Palmas B E N I Guacare Baures 2 cuma Santa Ana Laguna ío Ya R de Yacuma San Luis El Carm en Puerto La Esperanza Puerto Río Tijamuchi Río El Carm en Saucedo a Tu Tumupasa m Río ichi Santa Rosa cu Ya ío R Río Maniqui San Pedro R í Parque Reyes o Puerto Reserva

A Nacional Salina Biosférica m Madidi Reserva San Pe dro Reserva de Vida C a Biosférica del Beni n Silvestre t San Pilón Lajas C o Riós Blanc o Puina l a Buenaventura Rurrenabaque San Loma Ramón y Negra (6044m ) Suárez San Javier Queara Perseveren cia Apolo R R Lago Suches ío ío B N Río Atén El Porvenir Chevejo Trinidad l e Suches Casarabe a g San Ignacio n r Pelechuco c o San Borja o Antaquilla Area Protegida Aten de Moxos Villa Hichocolo Apolobam ba Banzer Ulla Ulla Hilo Hilo Río Ca m Yucumo Sachojere Akamani at a Río Canisaya Al R t Mapiri o San Curva í o B Francisco Charazan i e R K n í a Loreto Iskanw aya o i M k Puerto Chuma Río LlicaConsata a 1 ap 2 3 4 Calvamontes 5 6 Yaguayu ir Puerto San i Lorenzo Guanay Linare Puerto Santa Ana Río Securé Camaico Santa M aría Acosta Map 1 Nueva M anoa N

Fortaleza

Puerto Arar a 50 km

50 miles Rio Abuná u an M o ri api M ío Buena Vista R Villa Bella A A BRAZIL Rio Yata Loma Santa Rosa Alta Guajará-Mirim de Abuna Belen Dos Calles Guayaramerín n Assis Brasil Río Orthó Riberalta Rio Chipamanu Estrella Nacebe Iñapari Santa San Pedr o Santa Ana Elena Puerto Rico P A N D O Puerto Gonzalo M oreno Cobija ios Ivon Mukden e D re d Río ad Tah ío M Porvenir uamanu Conquista R La Emboscada Tres Estrellas Nueva Beni Ethea Río

Fortaleza Río Manuripi re de Dio Florencia El Choro Extrem a d s R a ío M V o e í rd R e

o t i c e San Silvestr e n Puerto Libertad e B Avaroa ío R

Apere

a Mamoré Río t a El Mojar Y

o

í R

Chive Río Manurini Todos Santos ) Río Madidi La Horquilla ore

B Río Iténez (Guap B o

Puerto Río San Matin l b

R Heath a í P o Versalles

n I Puerto Siles a t 5 o S n

o a í m PERU Laguna R a Gisebra s Matequa San Joaq uín

Río Heath Bella Vista Laguna Roja Aguada San Ramón L A P A Z Magdalena Guarayos Yata Exaltació n Alto Madidi San Ignacio Las Palmas B E N I Guacare Baures 2 cuma Santa Ana Laguna ío Ya Ixiamas R de Yacuma San Luis El Carm en Puerto La Esperanza Puerto Río Tijamuchi Río El Carm en Saucedo a Tu Tumupasa m Río ichi Santa Rosa cu Ya ío R Río Maniqui San Pedro R í Parque Reyes o Puerto Reserva

A Nacional Salina Biosférica m Madidi Reserva San Pe dro Reserva de Vida C a Biosférica del Beni n Silvestre t San Pilón Lajas C o Riós Blanc o Puina l a Buenaventura Rurrenabaque San Chaupi Orco Loma Ramón y Negra (6044m ) Suárez San Javier Queara Perseveren cia Apolo R R Lago Suches ío ío B N Río Atén El Porvenir Chevejo Trinidad l e Suches Casarabe a g San Ignacio n r Pelechuco c o San Borja o Antaquilla Area Protegida Aten de Moxos Villa Hichocolo Apolobam ba Banzer Ulla Ulla Hilo Hilo Río Ca m Yucumo Sachojere Akamani at a Río Canisaya Al R t Mapiri o San Curva í o B Francisco Charazan i e R K n í a Loreto Iskanw aya o i M k Puerto Chuma Río LlicaConsata a 1 Aucapata ap 2 3 4 Calvamontes 5 6 Yaguayu ir Puerto San i Lorenzo Guanay Linare Puerto Santa Ana Río Securé Camaico Santa M aría Acosta Tipuani Teoponte Footprint Bolivia n Extensive coverage of the most famous and lesser-known places, from the vast Salar de Uyuni and the sparkling Lake Titicaca to the vineyards of Tarija

n Expert authors Ben Box, Robert and Daisy Bolivia Kunstaetter know the country inside out, having lived and travelled in South America BOLIVIA for over three decades n Inspirational colour section and detailed maps to help you plan your trip n Authoritative advice and recommendations to ensure you find the best accommodation, restaurant and local tour operator n Comprehensive information to immerse you in the country’s fascinating history and diverse culture n Footprint have built on years of experience to become the experts on Latin America

‘Footprint is the best – engagingly written, comprehensive, honest and bang on the ball.’ THE SUNDAY TIMES Footprint Handbook

Travel: South America UK £12.99 6th edition USA $19.99 ISBN 978 1 909268 66 1 Bolivia BEN BOX, footprinttravelguides.com ROBERT & DAISY KUNSTAETTER