Footprint Bolivia n Extensive coverage of the most famous and lesser-known places, from the vast Salar de Uyuni and the sparkling Lake Titicaca to the vineyards of Tarija n Expert authors Ben Box, Robert and Daisy Bolivia Kunstaetter know the country inside out, having lived and travelled in South America BOLIVIA for over three decades n Inspirational colour section and detailed maps to help you plan your trip n Authoritative advice and recommendations to ensure you find the best accommodation, restaurant and local tour operator n Comprehensive information to immerse you in the country’s fascinating history and diverse culture n Footprint have built on years of experience to become the experts on Latin America ‘Footprint is the best – engagingly written, comprehensive, honest and bang on the ball.’ THE SUNDAY TIMES Footprint Handbook Travel: South America UK £12.99 6th edition USA $19.99 ISBN 978 1 909268 66 1 Bolivia BEN BOX, footprinttravelguides.com ROBERT & DAISY KUNSTAETTER Planning your trip . 2 Cochabamba and beyond. 216 This is Bolivia . 2 Cochabamba . .220 Best of Bolivia. 4 Beyond Cochabamba. .231 Route planner . 11 Best parks and reserves. 14 Santa Cruz and eastern lowlands . 238 When to go . 17 Santa Cruz. .241 What to do . 21 Eastern Bolivia . .265 Where to stay . 23 Food and drink. 25 Northern lowlands . 284 La Paz and around . 28 Rurrenabaque and Madidi . .287 San Borja to Trinidad . .298 Central La Paz. 33 Riberalta to Brazil . .302 South and east of La Paz. 43 Cobija . .304 El Alto . 45 North of La Paz, Background . 308 trekking and climbing. 46 History and politics. .309 Lake Titicaca, the Cordilleras and Yungas 74 Economy . .321 Culture . .324 Tiwanaku. 77 People . .342 Lake Titicaca . 81 Land and environment . .346 Cordillera Apolobamba. .102 The Yungas . .109 Practicalities. 358 Southwest Bolivia . 122 Getting there . .359 Getting around . .360 Oruro and around . .125 Essentials A-Z . .366 Salar de Uyuni and around. .144 Index. .378 Footprint features. .379 Central and southern highlands . 166 Acknowlegements . .382 Sucre. .169 About the authors. .383 Potosí . .184 Credits . .384 Tarija. .201 Colour maps . .385 Footprint Handbook Bolivia BEN BOX, ROBERT & DAISY KUNSTAETTER Bolivia Like its luminescent sky, Bolivia remains largely unpolluted and, in an age of rampant Disneyfication, stands out for its authenticity. There are over 17 million hectares of protected natural areas, but isolation is what best protects the intense and often bizarre beauty of Bolivia's landscapes. For the same reason, the cultural integrity of its peoples remains intact. Even though Evo Morales’ government is bringing municipalities closer together, paving roads and building communal facilities, it takes time and patience to travel from one place to the next. We (the authors) have travelled the length and breadth of Bolivia between us, but just when we might think that we have figured it out, it will catch us off guard. Some amazing new experience leaves us humbled and in awe of this remarkable country. Some of our favourites include a guide playing his charango in a cathedral-like cave near Torotoro; listening to the choir practise baroque music in San José de Chiquitos; walking all day without ever reaching the mirage-like shore of Lago Poopó; bathing in hot springs at Laguna Blanca and not wanting to get out because the air is almost zero; gliding down the River Yacuma being watched by countless caiman and cackled at by family after family of prehistoric hoatzin. From the shores of Titicaca, the world's highest navigable lake, to the 'Lost World' table-lands of Noel Kempff Mercado National Park, following the footsteps of dinosaurs, bandits and revolutionaries, there are endless opportunities for off-the-beaten path exploration. Along the way are rest- stop cities and towns where travellers can indulge in creature comforts as well as tall tales of their adventures. Ben Box, Robert & Daisy Kunstaetter Best of Best of Cambodia Bolivia top things to do and see 1 La Paz 3 Lake Titicaca The capital city is building up its 21st- The crystal-clear waters of the highest century credentials, but it still has its navigable lake in the world and, above, market streets where you can shop in the cloudless skies make this an essential place countless stores for multicoloured textiles to visit. Don’t stick to the shore, sail out and musical instruments, or head higher to the Isla del Sol, birthplace of the Inca up into the indigenous area for produce creation myth. Page 81. and traditional items. Page 28. 2 Tiwanaku Just a short ride from La Paz, Tiwanaku contains the remnants and artefacts of one of the most important pre-Inca civilizations in South America. Page 77. 4 • 4 Sorata Just three hours from La Paz, this town has a beautiful setting and is an ideal centre for trekking in the Cordillera Real and for cycling in the mountains or down to the river ports which will take you to Rurrenabaque. Page 97. 7 Potosí Silver from Potosí bankrolled the Spanish Empire. What remains in the highest city in the world is a fascinating mix of colonial opulence and the workings of poor miners gleaning what they can from the tunnels in the silver mountain. Page 184. 5 The 'world’s most dangerous road' The most famous downhill adrenalin rush on two wheels in the country from the heights near La Paz past waterfalls and dizzying drops to Coroico in the Yungas. Pages 110 and 111. 6 Salar de Uyuni This is a vast white salt plain interspersed with the occasional cactus-covered island. Tours from either Uyuni or Tupiza visit lakes of unimaginable colours, volcanic horizons and vast stretches of awe-inspiring emptiness. Page 149. • 5 8 Sucre This attractive whitewashed colonial city is the seat of the republic’s judiciary and a lively student culture. Take the Sauromóvil to see some of the 5000 dinosaur footprints at nearby Cal Orcko, or explore the traditional textiles of the Jalq’a communities. Page 169. 9 Tarija 0 Torotoro National Park In the far south, Tarija is the centre of the In Potosí department, but most easily Bolivian wine trade, as well as other fruits reached from Cochabamba by a road and vegetables. Away from the main whose views change every 30 minutes, tourist path it may be, but it’s a charming Torotoro is a geologist’s paradise, with small city and on a good route to or from magnificent rock formations, fossils neighbouring Argentina. Page 201. from the ocean bed and dinosaur tracks. Page 231. A Rurrenabaque This is the starting point for tours upriver to community-based lodges in the jungles of Parque Nacional Madidi, or downriver to gallery forests and wetlands of the pampas. Expect to see plenty of wildlife on boat trips and hikes. Page 287. 6 • B Samaipata A short drive from Santa Cruz, Samaipata was an outpost of the Incas, who took advantage of a huge carved rock for their easternmost fortress. As well as ruins, there are waterfalls, a relaxing town and, nearby, the Che Guevara Trail. Page 250. C Amboró National Park At the convergence of the Amazon, the Andes, the dry Chaco plains and the Cerrado, Amboró’s array of wildlife in its 11 recognized life zones is outstanding, and includes endangered cats and birds and more butterflies than anywhere else on earth. Page 259. D Chiquitania E Noel Kempff Mercado National Park UNESCO has recognized six surviving Jesuit mission churches as World Heritage Sites. This remote wilderness near the Brazilian Not only the beautiful architecture and border has more ecosystems in a single decoration survives, but also the baroque place than anywhere else on the planet music that was written and played here. and its table-top mountains, waterfalls, Page 265. forests and animal and plant species are considered by some to be the inspiration for Conan Doyle’s The Lost World. Page 277. • 7 BRAZIL PERU Parque Nacional A m a z o n 15 Madidi B a s i n Parque Nacional Rurrenabaque Noel Kempff Area Protegeda 11 Mercado Apolobamba Trinidad 4 Sorata Yungas Lake Titicaca 5 Coroico San Ignacio 3 de Velasco Tiwanaku Parque LA PAZ Nacional Santa Ana 2 1 Tunari 14 San Rafael Cochabamba Parque 13 C h i q u i t a n i a Nacional Santa Cruz San José Parque 10 Amboró 12 de la Sierra de Chiquitos P a n t a n a l Nacional Oruro Parque Samaipata Sajama Nacional El Fuerte Torotoro 8 Sucre G r a n C h a c o 6 Potosí Salar de 7 Uyuni CHILE Uyuni PARAGUAY 9 Tupiza Tarija Reserva Eduardo Avaroa N ARGENTINA 100 km 100 miles La Paz Tiwanaku BRAZIL Lake Titicaca PERU Sorata Parque Nacional A m a z o n 15 The 'world’s most Madidi B a s i n Parque Nacional dangerous road' Rurrenabaque Noel Kempff Area Protegeda 11 Mercado Apolobamba Trinidad Salar de Uyuni 6 4 Sorata Yungas Lake Titicaca Potosí 5 Coroico San Ignacio 3 de Velasco Tiwanaku Parque LA PAZ Nacional Santa Ana 2 1 Tunari 14 San Rafael Sucre Cochabamba Parque 13 C h i q u i t a n i a Nacional Santa Cruz San José Parque 10 Amboró 12 de la Sierra de Chiquitos P a n t a n a l Tarija Nacional Oruro Parque Samaipata Sajama Nacional El Fuerte Torotoro 8 Torotoro National Park Sucre G r a n C h a c o 6 Potosí Rurrenabaque Salar de 7 Uyuni CHILE Uyuni PARAGUAY Samaipata 9 Tupiza Tarija Amboró National Park Reserva Eduardo Avaroa Chiquitania N ARGENTINA Noel Kempff Mercado 100 km National Park 100 miles • 9 What to do What to do from legendary mountain biking to trekking a thousand curves Birdwatching for mountaineering), Apolobamba, Quimza Cruz and Occidental.