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Contents: fabulous vineyards Ganja-Gazakh cultivated connoisseurs 2 and the Lesser Caucasus 27 , an ancient cradle of viniculture, is once history different tastes again coming of age. Beautifully balanced are in Azerbaijan 4 unique experiences 34 made with love from grown on Caucasian slopes, unearth the flavours soaked in sunshine and soothed by Caspian breezes. types 7 with delightful wines 36 Come... Taste... Delight... wine regions wine bars of Azerbaijan 8 in 40

Caspian salam shoreline 11 Azerbaijan 44

Shirvan useful wine and the Caucasian foothills 17 vocabulary 45 IN AZERBAIJAN fabulous vineyards cultivated connoisseurs

Azerbaijan is a country of fascinating surprises. The Wineries & Wine Tours st dazzling 21 -century architecture of Baku. The glitzy While some families do make their other non-grape wines, most notably ski resorts of Shahdag and Tufandag. The Silk Route own wines – notably in the culturally full-flavoured pomegranate wines which unique village of Ivanovka or in the are a current favourite amongst Baku’s gem-city of Sheki... And, yes, the wonderful wine. Gazakh region – most of Azerbaijan’s younger social circles and tourists visiting production comes from larger our country. The best-known versions companies with access to a wide are made by Az-Granata (Agsu) and Azerbaijan is very proudly a secular, Azerbaijan’s wine industry has variety of vineyards. This provides the Tovuz-Baltiya (Tovuz), which can also be multicultural country, a place of been expanding rapidly over the last conditions for a similarly wide variety of tasted during the traditional Goychay passionate Caucasian spirit, and one decade with extensive investments in grape types to be grown which in turn Pomegranate Festival held every year in of the cradles of world . The top quality technology, and a playful facilitates some imaginative blending. early November. capital buzzes with bars. Fine wines are experimentation with both internationally Many of the top producers now offer very much part of many an Azerbaijani known grape varieties and many local factory tours and have tasting rooms – dining experience. And the vineyards of alternatives. The result is an original and often very attractive places where you Discover more at: the Caucasus foothills produce a bounty ever-improving gamut of fine wines. might also sample fine brandies and azerbaijanwine.com/ of grapes that soak up the rich sunshine, Come, taste and surprise yourself. vodkas. azerbaijanwine.az producing vintages that are likely to As well as the classics, Azerbaijan surprise and delight. also has a fast-growing demand for

2 3 WINEMAKING IN AZERBAIJAN wine history in Azerbaijan

Millennia ago, long before the Caucasus region was divided up into nation states, people living here were cultivating grapes, and pretty soon they had the great idea of crushing them to make wine. One of Noah’s first impulses after surviving the flood was to plant a vineyard... And to drink rather excessively of the wine that it yielded. According to firmly believed local legend, Noah’s post-ark settlement was founded at what’s now the Azerbaijani city of Nakhchivan – where there’s even a tomb site of Noah that you can visit.

4 5 WINEMAKING IN AZERBAIJAN grape types

Red White Azerbaijan’s wineries make extensive use of well- Matrasa Bayanshira known grape varieties Also variously known as Matrassa, Also known as Bayanshire, Shirei and by including Merlot, Madrese, Qarashira, Siray and by several other names, this sort grows quickly and Cabernet Sauvignon, other names. Round and waxy, the blue- and is resilient to drought, making it a black grapes are sweet and very juicy, popular grape to grow in less irrigated , Viognier, and grown especially in the region zones. Traditionally its reputation was not . But there are where a wine-growing village shares the especially glowing as a single varietal grape’s name. Predominantly used in but treated with care, some contempo- also several important coupage with other varietals, it tends to rary wineries have managed to tease out Pan-Caucasian and local produce tannic, richly coloured red wines crisply mineral white wines with lingering varietals. For now, many but also citrusy rosés with a long finish. lemon notes. More often the grape is Shirvanshahi used as a blend with , adding a of those are little more pleasantly citrus acidity. Local people living in the Kurdemir region than historical curiosities, and the valley of the Kur River have Misgali though there is a new grown this grape for centuries. It has a Misgali is a local sort whose name drive to revive some old dark colour and is mainly used for kagor- means ‘measuring unit’ in Azerbaijani. It type dessert and late- wines has a high and stable productivity and strains. However, it’s well high in residual sugar. It goes especially is especially suitable for producing table worth familiarizing yourself well with desserts, cakes and all sorts of wines. sweets. The most popular wine produced with the following varieties from Shirvanshahi grapes is called Arna-Guirna which are commonly used ‘Kurdemir’. Arna-Guirna is a local sort mostly Meleyi cultivated in the regions of Sharur, in Azerbaijani wines. Sadarak, Babak and Ordubad in small Dark-coloured table and dessert wines quantities. Mostly used for table and dry are produced from this sort which is wines, its aroma is a bouquet of fresh late to ripen (in early October) but tropical fruits while the taste is well- highly productive. Although there are no structured, with pleasant savoury notes Meleyi-based wines currently for sale, the and a long mineral finish. grapes are being cultivated by Chabiant and Wines for production in the Rkatsiteli coming years. Originally Georgian but also one of the Khindogny most popular white-wine grapes in Azerbaijan, Rkatsiteli ripens slowly with This local sort of Azerbaijani wine is a potentially high sugar content and sufficiently widespread and included a taste that’s fresh and juicy, creating in the ‘List of Standard Varieties’ wines that can become heavily fruity recommended for cultivation in the and mildly tannic when matured in oak. country. Khindogny grapes are very dark Though somewhat sensitive to drought, in colour and have been cultivated for the vines are seen as helpfully phylloxera up to 300-500 years, some even for resistant. The name means ‘red vine several millennia. Wines from this grape shoot’ in Georgian. are high-quality and possess a beautiful colour and pleasant fragrance. 6 7 WINE REGIONS OF AZERBAIJAN wine regions of Azerbaijan

While Azerbaijan doesn’t have strictly defined vinicultural regions like France’s AOC (appellation d’origine controlée) system, most major wine producers fall geographically along three main routes that fan out from Baku. They span north along the Caspian shoreline, west through Shirvan along a beautifully varied road that follows the foothills of the Greater Caucasus, and west on a more southerly route through the centre of the country via historic Ganja. Inexpensive car hire makes it relatively affordable to visit a selection of the country’s wineries. However, since you’ll no doubt want to taste plenty of the wines en route, you might prefer to join a tour.

8 9 WINE REGIONS caspian shoreline

From the north shore of Wineries the Absheron Peninsula

to the Russian border A short drive from Baku, Marandi is one at the Samur River of Azerbaijan’s foremost new-breed win- lies a narrow strip of eries, welcoming to visitors and produc- ing a growing range of well-balanced coastal plain from which wines, many grown in Fireland vine- rise the foothills of the yards that lie on the Absheron Peninsula between two salt lakes, close to some Greater Caucasus intriguing mud volcanoes. In all, some 15 Mountains. Historically grape varieties are now cultivated on 160 hectares of land producing several wine the route of traders ranges: refined Yalli, premium Terra Ca- and invaders, these spea and Terra Caucasea plus the softer, easy-drinking Ilkin table wines. lands were guarded by Further north, close to the town of three fortified pinch- Siyazan, Caspian Coast produces the Hamya, Shani and Four Season brands. points with fortresses Originally founded in 1970, it was mod- whose ruins still create ernized a decade ago when all its impressive scenes for production equipment was entirely re- placed. Relative newcomer Merit Brand travellers. As a wine has around 150 hectares under grape in terroir, the land is a the Shabran region. Overseen by master vintner Jamaladdin Zeynalov, their range curiosity, with a rich of dry red wines includes the Golden minerality, swirling Shabran, Mirvari, and La Perla brands.

sea breezes and Discover more at concentrated sunshine azerbaijanwine.com/ producing wines that azerbaijanwine.az can be explosively fiery and highly original.

10 11 WINE REGIONS

Enjoy a Baku wine crawl Baku is alive with a what to see smorgasbord of tempting restaurants and enticing drinking holes across all price ranges, most serving and do a range of wines. Better still, several excellent wine bars such as KEFLI Local Wine & Snacks, Saqi Wine Bar and Enoteca Meydan are conveniently located in and around the city centre meaning that in between sipping the many flavours of Azerbaijani wine, you can stroll around Baku’s most popular sights.

Tours of Fireland Stroll through the city centre Fireland’s tours include Nestled in the heart of Eurasia, Baku combines the best of East and West. Here you’ll a look at the factory, discover ambitious 21st-century architecture, European elegance and a medieval old degustations, lunch or city, as well as buzzing bistros and vibrant nightlife. Whether unravelling the myster- dinner featuring national ies of the Maiden Tower, nosing about museums or shopping in high-end boutiques, dishes and fish from the there’s something for everyone in the Azerbaijani capital. A great place to start is by nearby , taking a free walking tour. and options to purchase wines at favourable prices.

12 13 WINE REGIONS

Discover Azerbaijan’s fire legacy Baku’s energy-rich landscape amazed travellers as early as Marco Polo, and while the earth no longer throws out spontaneous bursts of flame, the Ateshgah Fire Temple is testament to a time when Zoroastrian and Hindu pilgrims flocked here to worship them. Built in the 17th-18 th centuries around a naturally burning flame, the site now functions as a well-designed museum recounting the lives and beliefs of those that ventured here. Combine this with a trip to nearby Yanardag (‘Burning Mountain’), where the last flames continue to blaze on the hillside.

inside knowledge

Ivan Uvarov, Co-founder of Kefli: Take tours to Gobustan and the

Three years ago there was nowhere to drink local wine in Baku.

mud volcanoes We love wine and we wanted Azerbaijanis to drink and rediscover From prehistoric artworks to a “ their own wine as well. We’re very glad to start this new wave. “ state-of-the-art museum, the Restaurateurs and winemakers now feel revitalized. Bakuvians have past of the Azerbaijani people learned to drink wine very fast. And they do it so beautifully. comes dramatically to life in the Gobustan preserve, a UNESCO- listed World Heritage site home to over 6,000 prehistoric petroglyphs spanning 20,000 years, as well as a Roman inscription from the 1st century Nasimi Sadigzade, Founder of Nasimi’s Wine Tours: AD – the furthest east one has

ever been seen! While here The reason I started the wine tours is that, as a local, I enjoy the food,

don’t miss the chance to see wine and hospitality of our people, so I share it with my guests and some of Azerbaijan’s roughly 350 they love it. It’s as simple as that. If someone is open-minded and “ “ mud volcanoes, the greatest sees two wines in a shop – one from France and one from Azerbaijan concentration of this rare natural – and tries our wines, they’ll be amazed by how great our wines are. phenomenon anywhere in the All our guests leave surprised by their quality. world.

14 15 WINE REGIONS Shirvan and the Caucasian foothills

This fabulous stretch of Wineries Azerbaijan running along the Greater Caucasus Branded as Meysari (the name of the Mountains into the company’s main base location), Shirvan northwest is home to Wines is one of Azerbaijan’s newest winemakers and the country’s first to be scenic country roads, considered an organic producer by EU historic fortress ruins and certification. Their first 40 hectares of vineyard were only planted in 2014, with charming villages still the first harvest in 2017, so as yet the 2018 practising ancient crafts. bottling is all we have to go on. But signs are promising. Already the area under But it also has plenty to vine has grown to some 310 hectares, offer wine aficionados, the brand new processing unit uses top-quality French equipment made with five varied wineries by Pera, and a museum, restaurant and leading efforts to revive guesthouse have been built to facilitate Azerbaijani viticulture. wine tours. In the small town of Agsu, Az Granata’s giant modern plant processes a wide range of fruits into wines, liqueurs and juices. The word ‘granat’ from which the winery takes its name means ‘pomegranate’ in Russian (the word is ‘nar’ in Azerbaijani), and indeed a major product here is pomegranate wine. But the concern also produces an impressive range of spirits and inexpensive, easy- drinking table wines made from a range of European and Caucasian grape varieties grown on the hills of Shamakhi province to the north.

16 17 WINE REGIONS

Half hidden amongst hilltop vineyards in a deeply rural corner of Ismayilli district, Chabiant’s winery (aka Chateau Monolit) is one of Azerbaijan’s most appealing destinations for wine tourists thanks to a quality guesthouse with open-air swim- ming pool, a splendid tasting room and impressive wine storage caves designed to look centuries old. Set at an altitude of around 750 m, the naturally rain-fed soils of the terroir produce excellent quality grapes that benefit from sun- soaked days but mildly chilly nights. Over recent years the winemaking here has undergone a major rethink and now aims to “bring new life to local viticulture in Azerbaijan”. In the short decade since its founding in 2007, Savalan has become one of Azerbaijan’s most popular and widely distributed ranges of premium quality wine. The winery conjures up attractive imagery of crystal-clear Caucasian mountain streams watering its sunbathed vines which cover very considerable areas of rolling terroir south of the foothill city of Gabala. Set at an elevation of some 400 m above sea level, these soak up plenty of daytime sunshine allowing for the cultivation of numerous heat-loving grape varieties including red-fleshed Alicante Bouschet. The company’s international winemaking team combine expertise from Italy and Azerbaijan to create a range that includes nearly 20 different wines. Further west, the ASK Sheki Sherab winery opened in 2006 in the settlement of Chalabikhan, about a 20-minute drive from the charming city of Sheki in northern Azerbaijan. ASK boasts a state-of-the-art factory equipped with European technology and is currently producing two brands of wines, ASKona and Bouquet Sheki, using Chardonnay, Madrassa, Rkatsiteli, Saperavi and Merlot grapes grown across the regions of Oguz, Yevlakh, Ismayilli, Agstafa and .

Discover more at azerbaijanwine.com/ azerbaijanwine.az

18 19 WINE REGIONS

Tours of Chabiant The winery is in the what to see tiny settlement of Hajihatamli, on a small country lane that links Goychay and do and Ismayilli. As well as great food and wine, tours also promise live music and other activities. Chabiant also organizes a harvest festival (late August) and a Vino Nuovo celebration (Late- November) mimicking Nouveau festivities worldwide.

Tours of Savalan Wines The winery offers tours in English and Russian with various options for tastings. On a clear day there are glorious mountain views from the site that sits on the edge of a Tours of Meysari plateau 25 km south of Gabala which is Azerbaijan’s foremost mountain resort city, and home to another major winemaking complex. Complete with a 200- seat restaurant, the attractive Meysari winery complex is beside the main road, a short drive west of Shamakhi, making it an easy stop if you’re heading from Baku towards Ismayilli, Gabala, Sheki or Agsu. For now, tours include tasting the three organic wine variants on offer made from a curious mélange of French grape varieties, but the range will expand and change once newly planted vineyards of Caucasian seedlings come to maturity.

20 21 WINE REGIONS

Tours of Az-Granata Winery Discover local crafts Tasting a glass of Less than two hours’ drive from Gabala via a geologically spectacular canyon, the pomegranate wine is a pretty little village of Lahij woos visitors with its antique copperware workshops, unique experience offered cobbled streets, stone houses and crafts and souvenir shops. A popular hike finishing by Az-Granata where, here begins in the picturesque village of Basgal, which itself was once a stop-off on the by arrangement, visits Great Silk Road. Today a kelaghai workshop still operates in the village, willingly sharing to the production plant with visitors the secrets to making Azerbaijan’s exquisite silk headscarves. are possible and highly engaging. They culminate in a tasting room adorned with barrels and an exhibition of sepia photos that illustrate the history of winemaking in Azerbaijan. Tastings might encompass flavoured vodkas and ‘Azerbaijan’s first Raki’.

Tours of ASK Sheki Sherab Excursions to the vineyards aren’t an option but tours and tastings at the factory can be organised through local tour agencies or by contacting the winery directly. Or, if you’re short of time, a better option may be to visit the recently opened ASK store on In the footsteps of the Sheki’s central trading street (M. F. Akhundov str.) which also hosts degustations. Shirvanshahs Shamakhi was the ancient capital of Shirvan, whose rulers (the Shirvanshahs) held sway over much of Azerbaijan between the 7th and 16th centuries. Although stumbling across medieval fortress ruins while hiking over hilltops and mountain ridges is still very possible, in the city itself invaders and earthquakes have left little in the way of an old town. Nevertheless, the city’s mosque was one of the first established in the Caucasus and, in rebuilt form, is truly splendid. And across the valley Yeddi Gumbaz is a fascinating little collection of old 19th-century mausoleum with a great view back across the city.

22 23 WINE REGIONS

Relax in the great outdoors In winter, Gabala’s Tufandag Mountain Resort offers skiing, snowboarding and skidoo-rides while in summer the region can host quad-bike rides, jeep tours, rafting, shooting and hiking. Many hotels in and around the city have excellent swimming pools and spas. History hunters have plenty to do seeking out the archaeological reminders of the once great kingdom of Cauca- sian Albania. That state’s 4th-cen- tury capital was some 20km west of Gabala, a site that’s now a beau- tifully set, rural archaeological site with a splendid new museum.

inside knowledge

Aygun Atayeva, Chief Sales Manager at Savalan:

In 2002 I found myself at the epicentre of the development of wine

culture in Azerbaijan, although to say that there was one would be

“ wrong. But now decent and in some cases very good wine is being made. Sample honey and wine in What happened? The rapid development of the oil industry helped. “ Ivanovka Lots of foreign specialists came to Azerbaijan and preferred drinking South of Ismayilli, take the wine to strong alcohol and many Azerbaijanis began to travel more to opportunity to stop in the European countries where wine culture is part of daily life. village of Ivanovka which still maintains a Soviet-style cooperative farm. Many of the villagers are so-called ‘Molokans’, groups of Russian non-conformist Christians Rena Alimardanova, Marketing Manager at who were effectively banished Chabiant: here in the 1830s. These days Ivanovka is renowned across The idea behind the Chabiant brand was to create young, light, modern

Azerbaijan for the quality of wines reflecting the mostly local grape varieties grown at own vineyards,

its dairy products and honey, “ located in one of the best terroirs in the country. Our philosophy is to while some villagers also have promote wine culture in Azerbaijan by holding various wine tasting “ a sideline in winemaking – events in Baku, and to promote wine tourism by hosting wine tours and sold in old water bottles, such wine festivities, such as the Wine Harvest Festival and the Young Wine wines can be surprisingly festivity (which is like the Beaujolais Nouveau). drinkable.

24 25 WINE REGIONS Ganja- Gazakh and the Lesser Caucasus

This is where it all Wineries started. Back in 1860, when the town of Goygol Renamed Concordia, almost half of all grapes harvested in Azerbaijan were was a small village processed here in the 1920s. During the of German settlers Soviet era the wineries were nationalized, and in the 1940s the region’s German known as Helenendorf, population was deported. But today a certain Christopher the Goygol Winery still traces its origins Vohrer started a joint to the Vohrer original. The company processes 13 varieties of grapes stock company to harvested from over 500 hectares of expand his vineyards vineyards, and is celebrated for its prize-winning brandies as well as a into a fully-fledged wine selection at varying quality levels wine industry. Within marketed as Xan, Goygol, Yelenendorf and Karabakh. a generation this had A winery since 1984, but entirely re- become Azerbaijan’s built after 1998, Ganja Sharab was one of the first major producers in Azerbaijan single biggest producer to institute international standards of of wines as well as the viticulture. In the early 2000s, their mid- range blended ‘legend’ wines including first to export Azerbaijani Qiz Qalasi and Yeddi Gozel were wines to Europe. mainstays of Baku social functions, while the less sophisticated Ivanovka range offered inexpensive yet very passable tipples. Today, these brands are still produced along with a dozen others but Ganja Sharab is now most appreciated for its premier-quality Hillside wines, many of them aged in French oak.

26 27 WINE REGIONS

Close to Shamkir, backed by starkly arid hills, is the Sharg-Ulduzu (Şərq Ulduzu) winery. Meaning ‘Star of the East’, Sharg- Ulduzu produces a range of dry red single grape wines (Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz (Syrah), Merlot, Saperavi) along with blends in which a traditional cooling technique stops fermentation to produce low-alcohol semi-sweet wines maintaining much of the natural sugar. Examples include Shemkirskaya Krepost (Şəmkir Qalası or Merlot-Cabernet- Sauvignon), Shishtapa (Şiştəpə or Saperavi-Merlot) and Skazka Vostoka (Şərq Nağılı or Saperavi-Tavkveri). The whites follow a similar pattern and include a decent, dry Bayanshira. Further west still, Tovuz has a striking faux-fortress set in a traffic circle at the town’s eastern entrance and is home to Tovuz-Baltiya, a winery best known for its brandies but also making a variety of table wines as well as an eclectic series of still and sparkling wines from pomegranate and quince. One of the best is AzerNar, a sweet pomegranate wine that’s best drunk with plenty of ice.

Discover more at azerbaijanwine.com/ azerbaijanwine.az

28 29 WINE REGIONS

Tours of Sharg Ulduzu The winery organises what to see tours of the site and degustations of the various wines produced here, accompanied and do by tasty snacks. Also included is a guided tour of the Sharg Ulduzu museum, which offers a glimpse into the winemaking traditions of the Shamkir region.

Tours of Goygol Winery Visitors can arrange various degustations at the winery’s impressive cellar, but go easy if you choose to do a full tasting of 15 types of wine and brandy. The complex is handily located at the northern end of Goygol town and easily accessible by public transport. Various guest packages are available, some including horse riding in the vineyards or wagon rides around Goygol town.

Tours of Tovuz-Baltiya The winery boasts lovely views of Tovuz’s idyllic countryside and tours are available when prearranged. But if you don’t fancy travelling all the way to the far west of Azerbaijan you can always call into the Tovuz-Baltiya store in central Baku (Shamsi Badalbeyli str.) instead to sample the winery’s full range of brandies, wines and .

30 31 WINE REGIONS

Discover German traces Despite being tragically exiled to Kazakhstan by Stalin in 1941, the Germans’ presence can still be felt in central Goygol and Shamkir, the two largest former German colonies in Azerbaijan. In both, the town centre is set around well-planned streets lined by original part-timbered houses and giant plane trees. The towering red- stone Lutheran church in Goygol today functions as a museum, while the luxury Excelsior hotel in Shamkir serves up homebrewed Locate the Bottle House German beers in a cosy ground-floor pub. The most unusual building in Ganja is the Bottle House, a two-storey building completed in 1967 by Ibrahim Jafarov as a shrine to his brother who went missing during World War II. The walls are adorned with 48,000 bottles of different sizes and colours. Unusual, even for Azerbaijan!

inside knowledge

Relax in the Goygol National Park The Goygol National Park is known for its crystal-clear lakes. While many consider Goygol (meaning Blue Lake) to be Azerbaijan’s most beautiful lake, it also has an interesting story behind it because it formed after a 12th-century earthquake sent Asgar Alirzayev, CEO at Sharg Ulduzu: rocks crashing down from the peak of Mount Kapaz, damming the Agsu river flowing My childhood was spent among the vineyards between the villages beneath. Today, this stunning lake sits at 1,500 m in the Lesser

of Irmashli (previously Eichenfeld) and Shishtepe in Shamkir. When surrounded by lush forests and alpine meadows with panoramic views and hiking

the vineyards were destroyed all over Azerbaijan during the Soviet opportunities. “ Union, these ones were also affected, and so after the country became independent I decided to restore the region’s winemaking “ traditions. Sharg Ulduzu is based on the rich viticulture traditions of the [Shamkir] region and you can see this in the appearance and taste of our products.

Christian Dejakum, Vineyard Manager at Goygol Winery: I’m Italian and come from a family of grape and apple producers.

Every time I go to Italy, I take various bottles of Azerbaijani wine

“ to introduce to my friends and relatives who always ask for more and different bottles. Although perhaps the same grape variety is “ produced in Italy, the taste and organoleptic characteristics are very different. When I describe the wine of Azerbaijan to my friends, the first thing I say is ‘different’, but in a good sense.

32 33 FRUIT WINES different tastes unique experiences

For a completely unique Azerbaijani wine experience, how about sampling some of the increasingly popu- lar fruit wines and champagnes being produced from pomegranate and quince at several Azerbaijani winer- ies? They also make the ideal gift.

Pomegranate wine

Pomegranates are considered the ‘king of fruit’ in Azerbaijan and grown all over the country, but most famously in Goychay, which hosts the annual Pomegranate Festival to celebrate the late-autumn harvest. This favourite fruit is ever-present in in the form of sauces, juices, jams, and of course... wine! Pomegranate wines have a dark ruby colour, a tart, sweet taste (but not overly sweet) and a nutty aftertaste with hints of tobacco and cherry.

Quince wines

Quince has been grown in Azerbaijan for millennia and today, like pomegranates, this gloriously yellow fruit is made into compotes, jams and juices, as well as being a key ingredient in meat stews and a popular version of the national dish . With its sweet and sour taste, quince also gives fragrant sparkling, liqueur and dessert wines with a beautiful amber colour, a delicate, balanced flavour and a fruity and flowery aftertaste – ideal for cozy winter evenings!

34 35 FOOD & WINE

Kebabs unearth the flavours Chunks of lamb soaked in a sauce of onion, vinegar and pomegranate juice, impaled on a large skewer and with delightful wines grilled on the barbecue – just one of many Azerbaijani kebab combinations! Some are made with lamb or beef, others with chicken or fish, Infused with the ancient flavours of the Silk Road, while potatoes, aubergines, green peppers, mushrooms, Azerbaijani cuisine is still yet to be fully discovered. To and tomatoes add help unravel its full potential, be sure to try these great succulence and flavour. food and wine pairings. Azerbaijani kebabs are best paired with red dry wines, such as a local , as well as Shiraz (Syrah), Saperavi or Cabernet Sauvignon.

Dolma One of our classic dishes which comes in endless varieties, dolma is traditionally made from grape leaves stuffed with various fillings of meat and rice, enriched with herbs or nuts. Its name comes from the Azerbaijani verb ‘dolmaq’, meaning ‘to stuff’.

Dolma goes ideally with dry red wines, such as Madrasa, Alicante Bouschet, Shiraz (Syrah) or Cabernet Sauvignon.

36 37 FOOD & WINE

Lavangi In terms of popularity, lavangi stands head and shoulders above other signature dishes of the southern region. It’s prepared with either chicken or fish, which is stuffed with a scrump- tious walnut paste along with raisins, onions, and herbs. Given the prox- imity of the Caspian Sea, the fish lavangi is especially popular, particularly when done with Caspian kutum. For the most delicious results, lavangi should be cooked in foil over hot coals in a traditional Plov tandir oven. Plov can never be boring! Made of rice mixed with herbs, dried fruits, meat or fish and other local ingredients, it comes in hundreds of varieties and is always around during You can try lavangi with red any Azerbaijani holiday. dry Madrasa, Pinot Noir or even Chardonnay. For the ultimate plov experience, enjoy it with a dry white Bayanshira, dry white Chardonnay, semi- dry white Taminer or dry white Verdejo. Pakhlava Our most sinfully tasty pastry consists of layers of dough stuffed with nuts, and coated with honey or syrup. Traditionally, it’s eaten during the Novruz holiday together with Kuku shekerbura and shorgoghal, but it’s also enjoyed throughout the year. This popular omelette- like dish hailing from Any dessert wine is a great accompaniment to pakhlava, but opt for a local Shirvanshahi, Meleyi, Nakhchivan is made of Khindogny or Muscat for the optimum match. herbs, vegetables and egg cooked together in butter, creating a wonderfully crunchy and golden exterior. As well as adding flavour, the egg is really the glue that holds this dish together. Traditionally enjoyed in summer, it can be served at breakfast or brunch, as a side dish or main course.

Kuku goes extremely well with rose wines, a local dry white Bayanshira or dry white Rkatsiteli.

38 39 BAKU BAKU

Saqi Wine Bar wine bars This relaxed, high-ceilinged wine bar in the centre of Baku has a cosy, informal vibe, a piano to tinkle and more than 90 local wines to try – best accompanied by their excellent cheese in Baku and meat boards.

–– Tue – Sun, 17:00 – 01:00 Baku is alive with a smorgasbord of tempting restaurants 12 Azerbaijan ave. +99450 333 6803 and enticing drinking holes across all price ranges, most fb.com/SaqiWineBar serving a range of wines. To get sipping, try these great choices:

KEFLI Local Wine & Snacks CafeCity Wine Furnished with understated style and lit by Baku’s ever-popular Café City chain has a great lamps fashioned from old bottles, KEFLI is an reputation for artistic interiors, unhurried ideal place to taste your way through a very conversation and family dining. Its Sahil Park wide range of local Azerbaijani wines in a branch now specializes in wines, and you can refreshingly peaceful atmosphere. also listen to live music.

–– –– Sun – Thu, 15:00 – 01:00; Every day 18:00 – 00:00 (wine menu) Fri – Sat, 15:00 – 03:00 8 Rashid Behbudov str. 4a Terlan Eliyarbeyov str. +99450 598 8833 +99451 308 9909 fb.com/kafesitivayn fb.com/kefliwinebar fb.com/cafecity.az

PORT Wine & Grill Enoteca Meydan On the stylishly redeveloped southern waterfront, Passionate about wine, this wonderful Old City this suave restaurant has great food and a long wine bar offers a relaxed ambiance with friendly, winelist that covers many international bases, casual service and lots of authentic Azerbaijani but also includes Azerbaijani vintages by Fireland wine. Join for a degustation by local sommeliers to and Savalan. On summer weekends you might learn more about our wines. find party nights but at other times expect an indulgently calm ambience. Vinoteka is also host –– to Baku’s new wine school. Mon – Sun, 11:00 – 01:00 20 Boyuk Gala str., Icherisheher (Old City) –– +99470 497 7414 Sun – Thu, 12:00 – 00:00; fb.com/enotecaMeydan Fri – Sat, 12:00 – 01:00 YARAT Modern Art Center, Netchilar ave, National Flaq Square +99450 246 1414 portwine.az

40 41 BAKU

Wine City One of the best stocked wine shops you’ll find anywhere, Wine City offers an inviting atmosphere to buy or taste a great selection of local and international wines. They even stock vintage Petrus Pomerol.

–– Winter: Mon – Sat, 10:00 – 21:30; Sun, 11:00 – 21:30 Summer: Mon – Sat, 10:00 – 22:00; Sun, 11:00 – 22:00 38C Mikhail Lermontov str. +99412 437 2887 fb.com/winecitybaku

ROOM Baku - Fine Art Wine & Dine Mellow in the early evening, Room becomes increasingly lively as the night continues with good music (DJs possible) and great food to complement the fine wines. Stays open very late.

–– Every day, 17:00 – 04:00 10 Tarlan Aliyarbeyov str. +99450 888 0069 fb.com/RoomFineArtWineDine

Barfly social hub This pointedly fashionable cocktail bar has skilled mixologists, cutting-edge DJs and a top French chef to entice the beautiful crowd into the heart of the Old City. They serve house wines from the Sharg-Ulduzu range (Shamkir region) and plan a much expanded wine list in coming months.

–– Mon, 18:00 – 00:00; Tue – Thu, 15:00 – 01:00; Fri – Sat, 15:00 – 03:00; Sun, 15:00 – 00:00 41 Boyuk Gala str., Icherisheher (Old city) +99450 449 4616 www.fb.com/barfly.baku

42 43 PRACTICAL INFORMATION Country Size 86, 600 km2 salam Population useful wine Azerbaijan 10 million vocabulary

4 hrs Moscow

written pronounced meaning

4 hrs Minsk 3 hrs ağ [agh] white 2 hrs London Frankfurt kaberne sovinyon [kaberne sovinyon] Cabernet Sauvignon Kiev Paris Vienna kaqor [kagor] Cahors 1 hr kəmşirin [kem-shirin] semi-sweet

Aktau kəmturş 5 hrs [kem-tursh] semi-dry Rome Tbilisi Barcelona Istanbul Baku konyak [konyak] brandy Madrid Ankara merlo [merlo] Merlot

Tehran qırmızı [g’rmizi] red Accommodation Best time to visit Language nar şərabı [nar sharabi] pomegranate wine We have a complete range of options, Dec-Mar: Cold, but perfect Our state from luxury and mid-range hotels, to şampan [shampan] sparkling wine for skiing. language is rural en-suite bungalows, provincial New Delhi Azerbaijani, which motels and even private homestays. şardone [shardone] Chardonnay Apr-Jun: Getting warmer - try is similar to Turkish. hiking in the foothills. Take an Many people Transport prices Doha Dubai umbrella in spring! şərab [sharab] wine speak Russian On the bus and Baku underground one and basic English Jul-Aug: Very warm. Ideal for journey costs 30 gapiks, taxisRiyadh are also şirin [shirin] sweet hiking in the high mountains, is understood widely available as an alternative option. or relaxing at a Caspian Sea by most of the süfrə şərabı [soofra sherabi] table wine Driving resort. population. A few mountain villages An international driving licence is turş [tursh] dry Sept-Oct: Perfect for walking have their own advised. Car rental is increasingly at medium altitudes. unique languages. available in Baku. Nov: Enjoy the changing Telephone foliage. Wear layers! The country code is +994, the dial out code from Azerbaijan is 00. Visa For some Internet Time zone nationalities visas Most good hotels are fully equipped with 4 hrs ahead of GMT. Since are available upon Wi-Fi connection throughout, and big 2016, we no longer put the arrival. For others hotels will also have business centres clocks forward an hour in e-visa can be with at least a few computers. Major summer, so while the time obtained within hotels sometimes charge for Wi-Fi, but is 4hrs\3hrs ahead of UK\ 3 days via evisa. it’s free in dozens of cafes, parks and Western Europe in winter, that gov.az. We advise restaurants across Baku and beyond. drops to 3 hrs\2hrs April- you to check Mobile phone providers offer relatively October. requirements inexpensive dongles so that you can before booking access the web through 3G mobile Religion your trip. networks. While we are a secular country, most of the Exchange rates Shopping population follow Islam. Mastercard\Visa Most international goods are available Muslim dress code is not ATMs are very in Baku, which has a phenomenal enforced nor expected. widespread and range of designer boutiques. Export Alcohol is very widely available in main certificates are only required for carpets, available. All religions have towns. Changing art and antiques. There’s a 125 g limit on somewhere to worship in money back is no exporting caviar. Azerbaijan. problem.

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Published by: Azerbaijan Tourism Board, 96 E Nizami Street, 3rd floor, Landmark I Baku AZ1010, Azerbaijan