placeWASHINGT ON, D.C.

CAPITAL GAINS There’s more to Washington, D.C., than politics and monuments. Neighborhoods across the city are being transformed into dining and shopping hubs. Check out these five. BARRACKS ROW/EASTERN MARKET Backdropped by the U.S. Capitol and rich with Victorian town houses, this section of Capitol Hill feels like it be- longs in The West Wing—signature D.C. One highlight: the 1873 Eastern Market, a busy red-brick grocery hall. A multi-block crafts and antiques fair takes place outside the market on weekends, with offerings such as vintage barware and local art. Eighth Street SE, known as Barracks Row for the U.S. Marines quarters that lie at one end, is packed with pubs and retro-chic oyster hous- es like the clubby Chesapeake Room (thechesapeake​ The Smithsonian’s National room.com; entrées $18–$27). Arrive early at chef Aaron Museum of African American Silverman’s walk-in-friendly hot spot Rose’s Luxury History & Culture, which opens (rosesluxury.com; entrées $12–$13) if you want to taste

JIM WEST/ALAMY this fall on the National Mall. the pig-ear-and-mango salad or rib-eye tartare. >> the / place / w a s h i n g t o n , d . c .

The Arts Walk, in Brookland. STATE OF STYLE Betsy Fisher, owner of the Dupont Circle shop that bears her name (1224 Rose’s Luxury, a restaurant in Barracks Row. Connecticut Ave. NW), waffles) and Menomale com) on U to find quirky- dishes on D.C. dressing. for Neapolitan-style cool dresses and Read On the new capital style pizza (menomale.us; Wall (readwall.com), on Lots of women come to our pizzas $9–$19). Eighth Street, for D.C.- boutique asking to look like designed men’s wear. Claire Underwood from SHAW House of Cards—that fitted, This neighborhood’s NAVY YARD feminine-but-powerful look. U Street was once On the Anacostia River On dressing like FLOTUS called Black Broadway near Nationals Park, Some of the recent arrivals for its nightclubs and a restaurant-and-bar have been more casual theaters, and great scene has risen among dressers, probably because venues still stand today. the office towers. After of Michelle Obama. NOMA BROOKLAND/ Check out the 1922 games, fans head to Just north of Capitol EDGEWOOD Lincoln Theater (lincoln​ the Fairgrounds (fair​ On presidential hopefuls Hill in NoMa (short for At the forefront of this dc.com) for pop acts, groundsdc.com), a Hillary Clinton needs to North of Massachusetts fast-developing zone, Bohemian Caverns complex made of ship- lose those suits with the Avenue), Union Market the Arts Walk (monroe​ (bohemiancaverns.com)​ ping containers, or the Mao-collared jackets. I (unionmarket​ dc.com)​ streetmarket.com) is for jazz, and the tiny warehouse-like Blue mean, does she really want is crammed with food a series of street-level Velvet Lounge (velvet​ Jacket (bluejacketdc. people seeing her and stalls like Takorean, studios like Stitch & loungedc.com) for com) to throw back thinking of Communism? which blends Korean Rivet (leather goods) up-and-comers. made-on-site beers and and Mexican fare, and and Rachel Pfeffer Shaw’s restaurants pub food. Recreation Robin Buffalo & Bergen, which (jewelry). Dance Place are small and focused: includes Canal Park, Wright as serves knishes, bagels, (danceplace.org),​ down Mockingbird Hill with an ice rink next to Claire and egg creams. After the street, hosts inter- specializes in ham and a bar (canalparkdc.org); Underwood lunch, browse shops like national choreogra- sherry (drinkmore​ ​ the D.C. outpost of the in House of Salt & Sundry (Turkish phers and troupes. Eat sherry.com); Convivial New York Trapeze Cards. hand towels, barrel- at homey-hip restau- (convivialdc.com; en- School (washington​ aged maple syrup) and rants like Smith Public trées $13–$21) does dc.trapezeschool.com)​ ; Bazaar Spices, then Trust (publictrustdc. French-American dishes and the Ballpark head to the nearby tumblr.com; entrées like escargot-in-a- Boathouse (boatingindc. Dolcezza gelato factory $6–$12) for global blanket. Hit the multi- com), which rents out (dolcezzagelato.com) comfort fare (ginger brand emporium Good kayaks and canoes. for something sweet. ramen, red-velvet Wood (goodwooddc. — JENNIFER BARGER

TALKING POINTS MEMO In D.C., perhaps more than anywhere else, capital improvements have a way of getting stalled. Here’s where things stand on the city’s hot-button issues. — J.B.

Don’t Like Ike? Deep Art A team of Streetcars, Mall Makeover In 1999 Congress creatives is work- Desired The city The formerly authorized an ing to transform has spent 13 years scruffy National Eisenhower memo- the Dupont Under- and $200 million Mall is currently rial on the Mall, ground, a series pursuing a street- being returfed but opposition of mid-20th-century car project that and revitalized. from architectural transit tunnels, would link non-sub- The biggest ques- groups and Ike’s into a subterranean way neighborhoods tion now: how to family have held up Pop-ups A spike in gallery space. with the rest of On the Waterfront keep it pretty with the project. the city’s housing D.C. Officials hope The long-delayed millions of tourists demand has led passengers will Wharf, a 27-acre walking on it. to the controversial take the first rides development with practice of jam- this year. parks, shops, and ming additions on a new facility to top of existing row house the city’s fish houses. Lawsuits market, is sched- have left dozens uled to open just of projects lan- south of L’Enfant guishing in limbo. Plaza in late 2016.

GRIDLOCKED IN THE WORKS DONE DEALS CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: THE WASHINGTON POST/GETTY IMAGES (2); A-PIX ENTERTAINMENT/PHOTOFEST; HISHAM IBRAHIM/THE IMAGE BANK/GETTY IMAGES; COURTESY OF THE WHARF; COURTESY OF DC STREETCAR; COURTESY OF OF COURTESY OF DC STREETCAR; OF THE WHARF; COURTESY COURTESY IMAGES; BANK/GETTY HISHAM IBRAHIM/THE IMAGE ENTERTAINMENT/PHOTOFEST; (2); A-PIX IMAGES POST/GETTY LEFT: THE WASHINGTON FROM TOP CLOCKWISE MEMORIAL OF EISENHOWER COURTESY IMAGES; POST/GETTY DUPONT UNDERGROUND; THE WASHINGTON

34 TRAVEL + LEISURE / MARCH 2016 WHERE TO BED DOWN POWER PLATES INSIDE THE BELTWAY It’s not just a steak-house town anymore. A crop of new and reimagined hotels gives These three trends have made D.C.’s culinary the city even more halls of power. — J.B. scene more diverse than ever. — J.B.

Kimpton Carlyle JUST DESSERTS Inside this rebooted Art Deco gem in Dupont Circle, In the upscale CityCenterDC the clubby Riggsby res- shopping complex, Rare Sweets taurant (theriggsby.com; (raresweets.com) is a cornucopia entrées $16–$38) offers of refined cakes and scones. strong cocktails and Near the Navy Yard, Ice Cream American spins on classic Jubilee (icecreamjubilee.com) dishes (schnitzel with a scoops seasonal treats such as fried egg). carlyle​hoteldc. cranberry sorbet. Down the Po- com; doubles from $179. tomac in Old Town Alexandria, the Parisian-style Blüprint Choco- Kimpton Mason & Rook latiers (bluprintchocolatiers.com)​ Opening in April, this specializes in truffles and bars downtown property fea- infused with flavors like Key lime. tures cozy décor with lots of leather and tweed. The 130-seat restaurant and bar, Radiator, has a jumbo patio with shuffleboard. masonandrookhotel.com; doubles from $189.

The Sofitel SOUTHEAST ASIAN The French-owned Head to Columbia Heights’ Thip Lafayette Square property Kao (thipkhao.com; entrées just got a face-lift inspired $9–$19) for chili-spiked Lao by the White House’s Blue fare like laab e’kae (minced Room. Peruse books on alligator with mango). D.C. and Paris in the library Filipino-American spot or visit Le Bar for Gallic- Purple Patch (purplepatch​ themed cocktails. sofitel. com; doubles from $300. dc.com; entrées $14–$24) serves delicate seafood in a Mount Pleasant town The Watergate house. Logan Circle’s After a $125 million Doi Moi (doimoidc.com; overhaul, the infamous entrées $12–$23) offers 337-room Foggy Bottom pan-Asian dishes, some of complex has a rooftop bar them vegan. with views of the Potomac. The staff uniforms are by a Mad Men costume de- signer. thewatergatehotel. com; doubles from $399.

Ask an Insider Audie Cornish Cohost of NPR’s All Things Considered

MID-ATLANTIC At the Dabney (thedabney.com; en- trées $12–$28), dine in a Blagden Alley row house on 19th-century-inflected dishes like Cape May scallops with barbe- cued turnips. Book a table at Barracks Row’s Where do you shop? Garrison (garrisondc.com;​ entrées $24–$27) for Shenandoah bison steaks and Virginia wines. At the Lettie Gooch (lettie​gooch.com), seafood-centric Blackwall Hitch (theblackwallhitch.com; entrées $14–$38) in Shaw. It’s my go-to for clothing in Old Town Alexandria, take in the river views from the deck.

that isn’t so conservative. The FROM TOP: Pastries at Rare Sweets; Hue beef at Doi Moi; duck with peaches owners get my obsession with at Garrison.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: SCOTT SUCHMAN (3); COURTESY OF LETTIE GOOCH; DOBY PHOTOGRAPHY/COURTESY OF NPR; COURTESY OF THE WATERGATE HOTEL; COURTESY OF SOFITEL; COURTESY OF KIMPTON HOTELS (2) HOTELS OF KIMPTON OF SOFITEL; COURTESY COURTESY HOTEL; OF THE WATERGATE OF NPR; COURTESY PHOTOGRAPHY/COURTESY OF LETTIE GOOCH; DOBY SUCHMAN (3); COURTESY RIGHT: SCOTT FROM TOP CLOCKWISE patterns, fabric, and shiny things.

TRAVEL + LEISURE / MARCH 2016 35 the / place / w a s h i n g t o n , d . c .

6. End at Ask an Insider Right Proper WHEELING Brewery (right​ Will Sharp properbrewery. Creative director of men’s-wear brand Durkl (durkl.com), co-owner of concept AND DEALING com), where store/café Maketto (maketto1351.com). you’ll find am- D.C. is easy to explore by bicycle— 6 just remember that Capitol Hill ple bike parking and local suds. actually is a hill. Sign up for Capital Bike Share (capitalbike​ share.com),​ or head to electric-bike shop Riide 1 1. Fuel up at (riide.com) for a free test-drive. Compass Coffee Cofounder Amber Wason mapped (compasscoffee. her perfect itinerary. com). Best-dressed politico? 5. Cross Arlington 2. Pass the Memorial Bridge White House “President Obama, and head for the and the Lincoln Memorial. Washington when he plays basketball (Walk behind it for Monument. in pocketless sweats awesome sunset 2 and a tucked-in tee. vistas over Arling- ton.) Then pedal He’s just being himself, back through the and it’s powerful.” heart of the city.

5 PARTY LINES 3. Just after the Want to mingle with embassy Jefferson Memorial, types or pols? We’ve typecast the city’s night creatures. take the 14th Street Bridge toward The Jet Set northern Virginia. Society ladies and the men who 3 love them favor Georgetown’s ENO Wine Bar (enowine​ rooms.com)​ ; Fig & Olive (figandolive.com),​ in CityCenterDC; the jacket-required nightclub Huxley (huxleydc.com)​ ; and POV (shown; povrooftop.com),​ atop the W Hotel. 4. Take the Mount Vernon Trail for three miles along the Potomac. Gravelly Point is an ideal picnic spot, with views of monuments and planes taking off from Reagan National Airport. 4

The Power Players Lobbyists, lawyers, and the elected elite stick to the classics, like the REQUIRED VIEWING crimson-walled Off the Record With nearly 200 museums in Washington, even the culture-hungry need to narrow bar (hayadams.com),​ downtown; things down. Three influential curators share their must-sees. — J.B. the wood-paneled Round Robin Bar (washington.intercontinental.​ com), near the White House; and Nicholas Bell Lonnie Bunch the seafood standby Johnny’s Curator-in-charge at the Founding director of the Half Shell (johnnyshalfshell.net), Renwick Gallery, part of the National Museum of African close to Capitol Hill. Smithsonian Institution that American History & Culture, reopened last November opening this fall (nmaahc.si.edu) following a two-year renovation “At our museum, one of my The Diplomats Expats watch soccer at Lucky “I have a soft spot for favorite objects is a small, Bar (luckybardc.com),​ in Dupont utopian 1960s architecture, handmade tin box built and Circle. Nearby restaurants and the Kennedy Center Evelyn Hankins used by Joseph Trammell to Mari Vanna (marivanna.ru;​ entrées for the Performing Arts Associate curator, Hirshhorn hold his freedom papers. It $18–$28) and Barcelona, in Logan (kennedy-center.org) really Museum & Sculpture Garden proved his legal status as a Circle (barcelonawinebar.com; represents that, with all its “Spend time with sublime free man of color, which came small plates $7–$14), are awash marble and bronze. It’s a cap- paintings in the Rothko Room to him in 1852. He carried in vodka, Spanish wine, and multi- stone to the whole Camelot at the Phillips Collection it around with him in that tin lingual chatter. — AMY MCKEEVER

era, a happy building.” (phillipscollection.org)​ .” box until he died, in 1859.” SPARSHOTT DAVID BY ILLUSTRATION OF THE PHILLIPS COLLECTION. COURTESY VARNEY; JASON TIMES/REDUX; NEW YORK DOUG MILLS/THE LEFT: REY LOPEZ; FROM TOP CLOCKWISE

36 TRAVEL + LEISURE / MARCH 2016 ¡ FOR 25 FREE THINGS TO DO IN D.C., GO TO TANDL.ME/FREEDC.