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Belogradchik Rocks, : Geological Setting, Genesis and Geoconservation Value

Article in Geoheritage · September 2011 DOI: 10.1007/s12371-011-0048-7

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Dimitar Tronkov & Dimitar Sinnyovsky

Geoheritage

ISSN 1867-2477 Volume 4 Number 3

Geoheritage (2012) 4:153-164 DOI 10.1007/s12371-011-0048-7

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Geoheritage (2012) 4:153–164 DOI 10.1007/s12371-011-0048-7

REVIEW ARTICLE

Belogradchik Rocks, Bulgaria: Geological Setting, Genesis and Geoconservation Value

Dimitar Tronkov & Dimitar Sinnyovsky

Received: 25 September 2010 /Accepted: 7 October 2011 /Published online: 4 November 2011 # Springer-Verlag 2011

Abstract The Belogradchik Rocks are one of the most cance, Belogradchik Rocks are the Bulgarian nomination famous natural landmarks in Bulgaria. This spectacular for the “New Seven Natural Wonders of the World”. The rock assemblage represents a remarkable combination of present protected area is going through the procedure for imposing rock monuments and a beautiful mountain acceptance into the European Geopark Network. landscape. It is formed in Lower red continental sandstones and conglomerates of the Petrohan Terrigenous Keywords Lower Triassic . Rock monuments . Group. The thick layers were deposited by continental Geoconservation . Bulgaria rivers in the west Balkans (Northwest Bulgaria). In a protected area of about 600 ha close to the town of Belogradchik, the impressive stone giants are named after Introduction persons and animals that they resemble: Adam and Eve, the Madonna, the Schoolgirl, the Monks, the Dinosaurs, the Bulgaria is a natural geological museum with wonderful rock Lion, and so on. However, the restricted protected area does outcrops of different ages and compositions, from Archean to not represent the entire variety and natural beauty of the Quaternary. The complicated geological structure and con- region. There are numerous impressive outcrops, rock trasting relief favour the formation of extraordinary geological formations, and single buttes in a large area of the West and geomorphological phenomena with aesthetic, scientific Balkans—a 3-km wide and 18-km long strip that meets the and educational value. At the end of the twentieth century, the requirements of a national geopark. Along with its natural Bulgarian geological society joined the GEOSITES and beauty, Belogradchik has a long history, closely connected GEOPARKS initiatives, and the Ministry of Environment to the natural landscape. It dates as far back as the and Water financed the creation of the Register and Cadastre of Palaeolithic Period as documented by simple pebble tools, the Bulgarian geological phenomena (2000–2003). This was prehistoric graphic art (mural paintings), and many relicts developed using scientific criteria and an original scientific of the Bronze and Iron ages. The Roman fortress on top of methodology established for the purpose of the project the monument field served various garrisons for many (Sinnyovsky et al. 2002). In the frame of this project, the centuries. Due to its natural beauty and historical signifi- geopark “Iskar Gorge” was developed and presented at the Third European Geoparks Network Meeting in Eggenburg D. Tronkov (Jelev et al. 2002). Unfortunately, it was not accepted and the Geological Institute “Strashimir Dimitrov” Bulgarian development of geoparks in Bulgaria is still in its initial Academy of Sciences, stage. Belogradchik Rocks are one of the most famous and Georgi Bonchev Str. Bl.24, Sofia 1113, Bulgaria attractive natural landmarks in Bulgaria and are regarded as a geological phenomenon of international significance. This D. Sinnyovsky (*) remarkable rock assemblage, considered to be of geomor- “ ” University of Mining and Geology St. Ivan Rilski , phological–scenic interest, meets the requirements of a Studentski grad, Sofia 1700, Bulgaria geopark. Its nomination as the Bulgarian representative of e-mail: [email protected] the “New Seven Natural Wonders of the World” has Author's personal copy

154 Geoheritage (2012) 4:153–164 provoked a broad public interest expressed by numerous Geological Setting publications and statements in the mass media. As usual, some of these demonstrate incorrect notions about the The remarkable rock assemblage Belogradchik Rocks geological characteristics, origin and age of the rocks. The (Fig. 2) is located in the western part of the large most usual mistake is the confusion between the age of the Belogradchik Tectonic Unit (Anticlinorium after Tronkov rock formation and formation of the rock monuments. Many 1973) in the West Balkan Tectonic Zone (Angelov et al. newspapers announced that “Belogradchik Rocks were 2006a, b) (Fig. 3). It is located close to Belogradchik town formed 220 million years ago”, considering the age of (43.62449°N, 22.68526°E). The area is composed of deposition of the red sandstones. Actually, formation of the sedimentary, igneous and metamorphic rocks of various rock monuments started during the Eocene, about 35 million age and petrographic compositions. The outlines of the years ago, when the Triassic red sandstone unit was exposed Belogradchik Anticlinorium are marked mainly by the at the surface. Another misleading statement is that the distribution of and Lower beds, but its Belogradchik Rocks are built of marine sediments. In some core is composed of Palaeozoic rocks. publications, the red sandstones are considered to be The oldest rocks in the Belogradchik Anticlinorium core “deposited in the Triassic Sea”. Principally in such types of are metamorphites of Berkovitsa Group (?), but popular publications, strict respect to the geological termi- most of the outcrops belong to the Early Palaeozoic nology is not so important. Nevertheless, an admissible level Sredogriv Metamorphites (?). of journalistic accuracy should be retained through “expert West of the town of Belogradchik low metamorphic control” by the geological community when considering probably rocks crop out composed of two units— nationally important geosites. In 2003, the authors compiled Struindol Diabase and Shashka Siltstone with a thickness of the file “Belogradchik Rocks” for the Register and Cadastre more than 1,000 m. Struindol Diabase is a volcanic– of the Bulgarian geological phenomena, with a short version sedimentary rock association of diabase and diabase tuffs published in the review of the Ministry of Environment and with rare thin interbeds of phyllites. The Shashka Siltstone Water “Geology and Mineral Resources” (Tronkov and is composed mainly of siltstones, shales and sandstones. Sinnyovsky 2005). This paper aims to point out the scientific, These rocks are interrupted by an Upper Palaeozoic educational and historic value of the Belogradchik Rocks as (?) granite intrusion of the Belogradchik an outstanding geological phenomenon. The geological Pluton represented mainly of leucocratic granite which review comprises a new outlook on the geological structure crops out north of Belogradchik town. The Belogradchik of the area according to the new geological map at 1:50,000 Pluton is covered by Upper Carboniferous– conti- scale (Fig. 1). The authors stress the genetic characteristics of nental terrigenous and volcano–sedimentary formations the conglomerate–sandstone formation and geological pre- with thicknesses of more than 1,000 m. The Borovitsa requisites that are responsible for the recent shape of the Formation (Stephanian) is composed mainly of red con- rocks and new rock monuments outside the protected area, glomerates, sandstones and siltstones, deposited under the using original photographs. In compliance with this, a brief conditions of a riverbed and floodplains. These sediments overview on the historical heritage and archive documents pass gradually into the coal bearing Zelenigrad Formation concerning the beauty of Belogradchik Rocks is given. (Upper Stephanian), composed of grey conglomerates,

Venetsa SW Kleputs NE

Stakevska r. BELOGRADCHIK 800 Izvos 600 400

200

0 m 2000 1200 400 m a b 1346257 8

Fig. 1 Schematic geological profile of the Belogradchik Anticlino- formed in the sandstones of the Petrohan Terrigenous Group; 5 rium (after Tronkov 1998, with additional data): 1 Lower Cretaceous; coal-bearing Carboniferous and Permian; 6 Palaeozoic granite; 7 2 Jurassic; 3 Triassic: a Petrohan Terrigenous Group, b Iskar Ordovician metamorphites; 8 fault Carbonate Group; 4 geological phenomenon Belogradchik Rocks, Author's personal copy

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The overlying Iskar Carbonate Group (Middle Triassic) includes four shallow marine carbonate units—Svidol, Edivetar, Babino and Toskovdol Formations (Fig. 3). During the Late Triassic, intensive vertical tectonic move- ments were revealed in the entire territory of West Bulgaria. The bottom of the Triassic sea was faulted in large tectonic blocks and uplifted above the sea level. During the Early–Middle Jurassic time, a large transgres- sion occurred with deposition of terrigenous–carbonate deposits. The Jurassic section is represented by Lower– Middle Jurassic shallow marine beds (Riksa, Kichera, Polaten Fig. 2 Belogradchik Rocks are remarkable rock monuments developed and Bov Formations) and Upper Jurassic–Lower Cretaceous in continental Lower Triassic (Buntsandstein) facies of red sandstones carbonate deposits (West Balkan Carbonate Group). and conglomerates near Belogradchik town, Northwest Bulgaria sandstones, siltstones, argillites, thin limestone layers and Morphology two coal beds. The coal was subject to primitive exploration by With full respect to the natural variety of the Belogradchik subsurface gallery during the nineteenth century. These Rocks, a rough and simplified scientific approach could old coal mines and probably the oldest coal gallery in reveal a schematic classification into three main morpho- Bulgaria were first documented by the Austrian professor logical groups (Tronkov 1998). It is of local significance Franz Toula from the Vienna Technical University during and reflects the natural stratigraphic sequence of the his first visit to Bulgaria in 1875, when the country was still Triassic continental rocks, passing from thick massive in the Ottoman Empire. From the surface outcrops of these conglomerates at the base to more or less layered bedsTouladeterminedsomeLatePalaeozoicfloralspecies conglomerates and sandstones upward in the section. Most and skin fragments of Late Palaeozoic fish (Toula 1877; Taf. of the stone figures are formed at the transitional level III) (Fig. 4). Actually, these are the first palaeontologically between the massive lower part and the stratified upper part described fossils in Bulgaria, and this fossil deposit is of of the conglomerate–sandstone unit. The monuments exceptional historic value for Bulgarian geology. formed by the fractures in the lower massive portion of The Triassic is the oldest member of the Mesozoic the section are simple vertical cliffs with uneven walls. mantle of the Belogradchik Anticlinorium. It is composed Stratification of the rocks above this level gives more of the Petrohan Terrigenous Group and Iskar Carbonate interesting and varied forms that look different depending Group (Tronkov 1968, 1972, 1973, 1974). on the angle of view and the light. The Petrohan Terrigenous Group (Lower–Middle? Tri- Morphotype M (from Monks): The rock figures of this assic) is developed in Buntsandstein facies. It occupies the morphotype represent massive vertical columns and blocks lower levels of the Triassic and covers discordantly older with vertical and nearly vertical walls that reach heights of pre-Mesozoic rocks with a clear denudation surface. It is more than 20 m. They include, for example, figures from composed mainly of red, orange-red to grey-pink conglom- the rock group, the Monks, the figure Adam from the rock erates and sandstones, and considerably less siltstones. group Adam and Eve (Fig. 5, right), and so on. The conglomerate–sandstone formation, containing the Morphotype E (from Eve) includes figures of analagous famous Belogradchik rock monuments, crops out as a narrow shape with uneven walls due to elongated horizontal strip orientated east–west (Fig. 3). They are located in the grooves. The columns possess ring-like depressions (con- whole area of the unit, which consists of red-violet unsorted strictions) and/or bulges, rarely with transitions to the coarse-grained conglomerates and sandstones composed vertical walls. For example, this morphotype can be mainly of resistant quartz and quartzite particles with cross- illustrated by the figure Eve from the rock group Adam bedding in the sandstone intervals. The entire thickness of and Eve (Fig. 5, left), the Frogs, the Pigeon, the Princess the unit east of Belogradchik is several hundred metres but Frog, and so on. west of the town it decreases rapidly and pinches out. The Morphotype S (from Schoolgirl) is composed of vaguely lower boundary is erosional with the older Palaeozoic rocks. distinct, horizontal or slightly inclined to the southeast, A remarkable angular unconformity between vertical plate-like elements, arranged one on top of another in Late Palaeozoic beds of the Zelenigrad Formation and vertical succession in irregular and uneven vertical col- slightly inclined conglomerates of the unit crops out in the umns. Typical examples are the famous monuments the Zelenigrad Graben Syncline south of Belogradchik (Fig. 1). Schoolgirl and the Lion (Fig. 6). Author's personal copy

156 Geoheritage (2012) 4:153–164 500

J -K be C2 3 1 J1-2

D Venetsa T1-2 D P1 903,6 Kaleto Belogradchik C2-P1

500 C2

c-s T1 J1-2 P1 c-s T1

Izvos

C2 sr O C2-P1

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Prolaznitsa 0 1 2 km Borovitsa

J -K J T c-s T P C -P C 3 1 12345671-2 1-2 1 1 2 1 2

be C Dsr O 2 8 9 10 11 12 13 14

Fig. 3 Simplified geological map of the Belogradchik area at a scale Formation (Lower Permian): breccia–conglomerate, sandstone, 1:50,000 (after Angelov et al. 2006a). 1 West Balkan Carbonate argillite, tuff, tuffite, lava, lava breccia; 6 Zelenigrad Formation Group (Callovian–Berriasian): thin-bedded to medium-bedded grey (Stephanian–Lower Permian): conglomerate, sandstone, argillite and beige, clayey, nodular and intraclastic limestones; 2 Riksa, with limestone intercalations; 7 Borovitsa Formation (Stephanian): Kichera, Polaten and Bov Formations (Toarcian-Callovian): con- conglomerate, sandstone, siltstone and argillite; 8 Belogradchik glomerates, sandstones, shales and sandy limestones; 3 Iskar Pluton (Upper Carboniferous?): biotite porphyry granite; 9 Shashka Carbonate Group (Spathian–Ladinian): calcareous sandstone, lime- Siltstone and Struindol Diabase (Devonian?): siltstone, sandstone, stone and dolomite, and Slivovnik Formation (Lower Triassic): chlorite–sericite shale, diabase and diabasic tuff; 10 Sredogriv coarse-grained and gravely sandstone and conglomerate; 4 Petrohan Metamorphites (Ordovician?): metamorphosed conglomerate, sand- Terrigenous Group: conglomerate–sandstone formation (Lower stone, siltstone and schist; 11 lithological boundary; 12 fault; 13 Triassic): red-violet conglomerate and sandstone; 5 Karlovitsa normal fault; 14 thrust

Some of the figures are represented by only one morpho- Genesis type, others are combined. The elements of Morphotype S usually cover and raise those of Morphotype E, such as the The natural weathering factors—water, wind, temperature Lion near the Schoolgirl, or they can have a basement of fluctuation and vegetation—had a crucial role in the elements of Morphotype M, followed upward by elements of sculpturing of the Belogradchik Rocks. However, their Morphotype E and higher of Morphotype S, like the Dinosaurs chaotic destructive influence on the earth’s surface from the (Fig. 7). Interesting figures are the Rider and the Sphinx, Eocene to recent time could not reach these impressive where split columns of one or two different morphotypes rise. results without primary (Triassic to Eocene) geological Author's personal copy

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Fig. 4 The original table with Late Palaeozoic fossils, pub- lished by Toula (1877): Table III Plant remains of the Valchia sandstone (of the Lower Rotli- gende) from Belogradchik: 1 piece of shagreen leather of Xenacanthus spec.; 2, 3 Calamites cf. dubius Brongn.; 4 Calamites infractus var. Durri Gein.; 5 Annularia sp. indet.; 6 Odontopteris obtusiloba Naumann.; 7 Cyatheites cf. arborescens Brongn.; 8 Alethop- teris gigas Gutb. spec.; 9 Walchia piniformis v. Schlotheim, 9a. Leaf apex of Odontopteris obtusiloba Naumann Author's personal copy

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Fig. 7 The Dinosaurs Fig. 5 Adam and Eve preconditions—sedimentary processes, palaeogeography homogenization of the section allows vertical penetration of and tectonics (Tronkov 1998). surface water and the following domination of vertical Considering the sedimentological factors, we should erosion. note that some specific features of the conglomerate– Conglomerates and coarse-grained sandstones with sandstone unit in the outcrops west of the Lom River many conglomerate particles occupy the lower levels of affected the erosional processes. First of all is the lower degree the conglomerate–sandstone formation. These rocks of mineralogical and structural maturity. It impeded their build up poorly bedded intervals several tens of metres spontaneous diagenetic and/or epigenetic quartzitization and thick. Such thick conglomerates form some of the strengthening, increasing their erosional sensitivity. The impressive, but severe, even gloomy, rock figures of absence of laterally traceable clay beds caused the absence Morphotype M, that is, the above mentioned rock group of significant or even local waterproof horizons. This the Monks. The distribution of these deposits in other areas is very irregular. In short distances, they are replaced by laterally punctuated (lens-like) bodies of sandstones that are softer and more sensitive to erosion without conglomerate particles. In the case of the vague bedding planes and absence of clay layers, the erosional surfaces became smoother and softer, and the rock monuments have more delicate and romantic outlines, like Eve (Fig. 5, left), the Pigeon, the Princess Frog, the Mushrooms (Fig. 8) or the Bride of the rock group the Wedding, all of them belonging to Morphotype E. In the upper stratigraphic levels of the conglomerate–sandstone formation and in the eastern area of its distribution, the conglomerate particles always diminish in size and quantity. More clear bedding is also observed. This increases the role of the horizontal erosion and provides a better contrast and morphological expressiveness of the monuments. The most vital and exciting figures of Morphotype S have been sculptured in a similar environ- ment, provoking the imagination with their figurative influence: the Schoolgirl, the Lion near the Schoolgirl Fig. 6 Rock assemblage the Schoolgirl (right) and the Lion (left) (Fig. 6) and the Dinosaurs (Fig. 7). Author's personal copy

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valleys and passes with vertical or slanting slopes, holding in places tectonic slickensides—evidence for tectonic displacement. Tectonic factors are considered to be very important for modelling the Belogradchik monuments. The beds of the Petrohan Terrigenous Group are slightly inclined. The inclination of the beds of the conglomerate–sandstone unit is less than 12° to almost horizontal. This circumstance led to a larger distribution of the outcrops of the unit and to more uniform distribution of the surface water, resulting in their slower and longer influence on the beds. The smaller tectonic joints without displacement con- tributed to the vertical disintegration of the beds and formation of separate vertical blocks, that is, the monu- ments. Initial or advanced stages of development of the vertical erosion along such joints and the establishment of vertical rock blocks are observed in many places on the well exposed slanting or vertical slopes of the transverse Fig. 8 Giant mushrooms valleys. A major tectonic factor is the block tectonic displace- ment, revealed between the Middle Triassic and Jurassic. The existing geological data include evidence for the During the following Late Triassic, pre-Jurassic erosion, the influence of palaeogeographical factors. At the end of the whole Triassic System was entirely destroyed in the most Early Triassic and at the beginning of the Middle Triassic, elevated blocks. In these tectonic blocks, the Jurassic the area northwest of Belogradchik was broad palaeotopo- sediments lay discordantly directly on Palaeozoic and graphic upland with subarid continental palaeoclimatic Precambrian rocks. On the contrary, in the scope of the conditions. Its submergence during the first Triassic relatively downthrown tectonic blocks, most of the Triassic transgression occurred later than in the eastern areas of rocks (i.e. the whole Petrohan Terrigenous Group, the the recent Belogradchik Anticlinorium. During the late Middle Triassic carbonates and the overlying Iskar Early Triassic and at the beginning of the Middle Triassic, a Carbonate Group) have been preserved. marine palaeogeographic environment occurred, and more The beds of the conglomerate–sandstone unit in this Late than 150 m of marine carbonate sediments were deposited. Triassic structural plane fell into a transitional step fault. These topographic features have been partially preserved Late Triassic erosion destroyed only or mainly the after the submergence of the Belogradchik palaeo upland carbonate beds of the Iskar Carbonate Group and almost below the Middle Triassic Sea. The transgression is entirely spared the red clastic deposits overlain directly by expressed in the more littoral character and smaller Jurassic sediments. Most likely during the Late Triassic– thickness of the Triassic marine sediments, compared to Early Jurassic erosion, erosional forms in their initial stage the synchronous sediments in the eastern area. The appeared. However, there is no particular evidence support- sediments of the conglomerate–sandstone unit, contain- ing the tempting idea that they represent entirely ancient, ing the rock monuments, are part of a very large buried Late Triassic–Early Jurassic palaeorelief. Triassic fluvial fan, where the channel deposits mark- edly prevailed over the flooding sediments. This is proved by the exceptionally coarse grained composition General Geoconservation Characteristics and Value of the unit in the examined strip and the presence of fan of the Belogradchik Rocks deposits, bad stratigraphic differentiation, absence of clay flooding deposits, punctuation of the fine-grained The Belogradchik Rocks represent various natural rock sandstone bodies and low-degree current flow dispersion monuments resembling fortress towers, pyramids, humans, based on cross-bedding measurements. animals, mushrooms and so on. They have imposing Exceptionally important tectonic factors are the vertical dimensions, from several metres to several tens of metres, joint structures. They stimulated vertical penetration of rising high above forests, green glades, little vineyards and surface water and ultimately imposed vertical erosion of the romantic valleys. The prevailing red colour of the rocks is rock layers. The joints affected by tectonic displacement in contrast with the verdant background of dense, predom- have been transformed by the following erosion in small inantly deciduous forests. Author's personal copy

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Belogradchik Rock monuments are located in the most western part of the West Balkans near Belogradchik town. They are distributed in a strip 3 km wide and 18 km long, within 8 km west and 10 km east of the town, reaching the Lom River at Falcon Bridge. The rock pinnacles are widespread on a total area of about 50 km2, with an altitude from 250 m near Falcon Bridge to 620 m at Kaleto in Belogradchik. The present protected area of 598.7 ha includes the most famous monuments near the centre of Belogradchik town and the fortress Kaleto. According to the last ordinance of protection from 1987, the Belogradchik Rocks are protected as a natural landmark “in order to preserve unique geomorphological formations, as well as the living areas of rare and endangered animal and plant species”. The density of the rock figures varies along the whole strip. Around four large groups can be distinguished. The first group occupies the western part of the strip. In this location, the most representative objects are the formidable rock monuments in the area “Sbegovete”, which are remote from the town and difficult to access. They are outside the protected area and not included in tourist destinations. Fig. 9 Vertical and slightly inclined tectonic joints and horizontal Most compact, accessible and representative are the rock bedding caused the formation of giant pots with the dimensions of buildings sculptures of the second group, strictly Belogradchik Rocks. They are included in the geosite “Belogradchik Rocks”. Many of the most beautiful and famous rock They have never been included in protected areas. Among figures of this group are well visible from the centre of these are the Lion near Izvos, the Jabba group (Fig. 12)and Belogradchik Town or from the skilfully built ancient many unnamed rocks. fortress “Kaleto”. The most attractive figures are Adam and The fourth group includes the area between Borovitsa Eve, Schoolgirl, and Bear Cub. “Adam and Eve” is an village and Falcon Bridge. The latter group includes the impressive group of two joined massive upright rocks rising imposing butte “Borovitsa Rock” or “Pine Stone” and the 25–30 m above the green field, located in the neighbour- most eastern rock monument [Virgin Stone] near Falcon hood for official ceremonies in the valley south of the town Bridge. Borovitsa Rock (Fig. 13) is a separately protected (Fig. 5). On the vertical wall from the north and northeast rock outside the protected area of Belogradchik Rocks. This side of the valley, giant mushrooms (Fig. 8) and pots with 113-m high butte is composed of the same red sandstones the dimensions of buildings are located, hanging above the as the second group. It is surrounded by picturesque rock green forest (Fig. 9). On the opposite side of the valley are assemblages of vertical cliffs and impressive rock pin- the “Bear Cub” and the rock group “Schoolgirl”—the most nacles, resembling the other groups. famous rock assemblage among the Belogradchik Rocks The small protected area close to Belogradchik does not (Fig. 6). It includes a figure resembling a girl in scholar’s represent the entire variety and natural beauty of the region. uniform from the end of the nineteenth century and the For example, the high single butte Borovitsa Rock has sitting Lion, visible only from the south. East and southeast individual status as a “natural landmark” outside the of these are located many rock monuments like the protected area near Belogradchik. Other impressive land- Dinosaurs (Fig. 7), the Pigeon, the Monks, the Rider, and scapes in the surroundings of Borovitsa village are also many named and unnamed rocks surrounding romantic assigned to the fourth group. valleys (Fig. 2). The highest point of the Belogradchik Analagous rock formations located east of the Lom Rocks is at the Roman fortress “Kaleto” (Figs. 10 and 11). River are described as a fifth group of the Belogradchik This is the emblematic rock assemblage for the entire Rocks. They are distributed in the surroundings of protected area because of the combination of historical Gyurgich village and along the Large Mountain Ridge ruins and natural landscape. Here, the most famous named between Gyurgich and Prevala villages in Montana District. rock is Hajduk Velko—a hero from medieval rebellions. Located here is the impressive rock “Hundred Sheep”, The third group is located around the Latin Stronghold, resembling an enormous haystack and included in the north and northeast of Izvos village. Here are located pictorial Register and Cadastre of the Bulgarian geological rock arcs and single rocks, disposed outside the protected area. phenomena (Sinnyovsky et al. 2010). However, these Author's personal copy

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Fig. 10 View of the Roman fortress “Kaleto” (top) and the entrance to the medieval fortress at the top of the Belogradchik Rocks: (left) aquarelle by Felix Kanitz from 1873 stored in the archives of the Bulgarian Academy of Sciences; (right) present view rock formations are rather remote from Belogradchik region, the Austrian professor Franz Toula (1877) from Town and have different geological composition, mor- Vienna Technical University. Words of admiration over the phology and genesis, so they could not be considered as beauty of Belogradchik Rocks have been expressed by part of the Belogradchik Rocks. many writers and poets. It is not possible to mention all the The first illustrations of the Belogradchik Rocks are from works of art and science inspired by their appearance. To the second half of the nineteenth century. They belong to the point out the exceptional aesthetic assets of this natural Hungarian travellers F. Kanitz and J. Szombathy. The phenomenon and its equivalence to, and even superiority aquarelles of the Hungarian ethnographer Felix Kanitz were made in 1873 and are stored in the Archive Institute of the Bulgarian Academy of Sciences. A comparison between the Roman fortress “Kaleto” of Kanitz (Fig. 10, left) and the present view (Fig. 10, right) shows insignificant degradation of the rocks. The lithograph of J. Szombathy (Fig. 14) is also an original document, published by the first investigator of the

Fig. 11 Interior of the Roman fortress “Kaleto”—aquarelle by Felix Fig. 12 Single rock fragment of a rock group north of Izvos village, Kanitz from 1873, stored in the Archive Institute of the Bulgarian resembling animals or movie characters like Jabba from “Star Wars” Academy of Sciences (right) Author's personal copy

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“We had only just walked out of Belgrashik (Belogradchik) to descend down the southern slope of the hill, when suddenly a most unexpected and unusual view came to our sight. We were entering narrow meandering vales with bright red rocks of most picturesque shape. These rocks, almost every one being separate from the others, were rising up here and there like long sharp obelisks and enormous stalagmites, sometimes demonstrating striking resemblance to animals, ships and dwellings. They occupied the left and the right side of the road like trees around a park alley. Most of the blocks reached up to a height of about two hundred metres, with stratified and Fig. 13 Borovitsa Rock or Pine Stone (113 m high) is the most crumbly look. Some of them looked as if they sprouted from impressive separately protected butte outside the present protected tree bouquets, and others as if they had such bouquets above area of Belogradchik Rocks them … I recommend to artists and geologists to travel down from Belgrashik to Verbora. The narrow mountain gorges of Olioul in Province, Pancorbo Pass in Spain, the Alps, the over, other similar natural phenomena in other parts of the Pyrenees, the wildest mountains of Tirol and Switzerland hold world acknowledged as world standards for exceptionally nothing that can be compared to this. These giant red pillars, beautiful landscape, we will adduce the assessment of two scattered on both sides of the deep road, where on the bottom authors from different generations. small waterfalls fling the water of a foaming stream; these Objective criteria for beauty and aesthetics concerning trees, hanging from a great distance, as if they were ready to the world of nature are very hard to define, if possible at all. fall; this deep solitude, scarcely disturbed by the flight of Estimation is made on the basis of comparison between eagles and vultures, all of this provokes terror even in the most objects and the degree of their emotional impact. The first tempered soul.” independent estimation of the Belogradchik Rocks was The problem with significance of geological sites has made in the middle of the nineteenth century by the French been analysed in detail by Wimbledon (1996). In the traveller Jerom Adolf Blanqui (1843)—a man with suffi- category “globally significant site”, he assigned sites that cient education and personal experience of places of are “vital in defining the course and essential stages in the exceptional natural beauty. He left the first written inorganic and organic evolution of the globe”. At the other impressions of the Belogradchik Rocks as an exquisite extreme in scale of significance, he put “inspirational and beautiful natural phenomenon. Parts of them are features like the Nigardsbreen glacier (Norway), Dinosaur inspiring comparisons to other remarkably beautiful places National Monument (USA) or the sandstone pinnacles of of nature in different parts of Europe. They have been Belogradchik (Bulgaria)”. Thus, 150 years after monsieur translated and quoted in a number of publications from the Blanqui, Wimbledon confirmed the exceptional merits of second half of the nineteenth century in the Czech, German the Belogradchik Rocks and pointed them out as one of the and Russian languages. Later, they have appeared in many global standards among the geological phenomena. Bulgarian publications as well. During the development of the Register and Cadastre of the Bulgarian geological phenomena, Belogradchik rocks are described as geosite of global significance. They were estimated according to the expert card, developed on the basis of 16 geoconservation criteria (Sinnyovsky et al. 2002).

Relationships Between the Natural Landmarks and the Human History of the Area

Along with its remarkable natural beauty, the Belogradchik region has a long human history which dates as far back as the Palaeolithic Period. On its territory, artefacts from the cradle of European civilization have been found. Simple Fig. 14 Panorama of the Belogradchik Rocks from the town square— lithograph on painting by J. Szombathy from 1875, published by pebble tools from the Palaeolithic Period in association Toula (1877) with prehistoric graphic art in the form of mural paintings Author's personal copy

Geoheritage (2012) 4:153–164 163 from the Epipalaeolithic, Neolithic and early Bronze Age Conclusions are present in , situated 18 km northwest of Belogradchik. Many relicts have been found from the The idea of the integration of geodiversity, biodiversity and Bronze and Iron ages in the vicinity of the villages , cultural heritage by the development of national geoparks is Salash, Granichak, Krachimir, and Dolni Lom and the town an important part of the national concept for Bulgarian of Belogradchik. The findings of ceramic fragments, geoheritage protection. The Belogradchik Rocks are one of agricultural tools, arms, basements of Roman baths and the most famous examples of the Bulgarian geological many Roman coins in the surroundings of Belogradchik heritage, with a long history of investigation and interna- proved that the settlement was founded before the third tional significance. They are very appropriate for the century AD. In order to strengthen their rule on the Balkan development of a geopark on the territory of the existing Peninsula, the Romans made enormous efforts to build protected area of about 600 ha. The municipality of strategic roads. Using the natural inaccessibility of the Belogradchik has already submitted an application dossier rocks, probably in the third century AD, the Roman to the European Geopark Network. The positive assessment castellum “Kaleto” was built at the highest point of the will contribute to the sustainable development of the local Belogradchik rocks to control the road between the economy by geotourism and an increasing numbers of port Ratsiaria (Archar) and the internal part of the Empire. visitors. Considering the positive consequences for the local There are two artificial 5-m deep water reservoirs in the population, we may further speculate about the regional rocks, designed for storing snow and rain water for impact of an eventual enlargement of the geopark area. As emergency supply. Not far from the fortress, the ruins of a was already stated, the area of Belogradchik pinnacles Roman aqueduct were found. In the surrounding areas, near includes about 50 km2, but it could be enlarged to include the villages of Kladorub (late Roman settlement Kambustika), other geosites of aesthetic and scientific significance like Granichak, Dabravka and other places, ruins of other fortress rock arcs in the northern and southern limbs of the constructions are preserved. After the separation of the Roman Belogradchik Anticlinorium, Permian–Triassic, Triassic– Empire in 359, the Balkans became part of the Byzantine Jurassic, Jurassic–Cretaceous and Cretaceous–Tertiary Empire. The Byzantine Emperor Justinian I decided to boundaries, Carboniferous fossil megaflora, Urgonian fossil reinforce the fortress in the sixth century when the Slavonic deposits and so on. This impact could be examined in terms invasion of the Balkans began. Nevertheless, as a result of the of both economic and educational aspects. The scientific Slav and Protobulgarian population in 681, the new Bulgarian development of a large ecologically protected area will state was created. During the end of the Second Bulgarian engage scientists and students in the equipping of modern State (second half of the fourteenth century), Tsar Ivan museums and visitor centres in the settlements of the Alexander added new walls to the fortress, which was in the geopark area, organization of international scientific work- frame of the independent kingdom under the rule of his shops, and inclusion of students and young scientists in the son Tsar Ivan Sratsimir. For a short time (1365–1369) it was modern problems of environmental protection and conser- captured by Hungarian king Ludovig I. In 1396, the Turks vation methods of the geological heritage. took possession of the Balkans and the fortress preserved its Middle Ages Bulgarian appearance up to the beginning of the Acknowledgements This investigation is a contribution to the – nineteenth century. In 1805, a total reorganization and Projects OXH 304 07 and DDVU 02/72 of the National Science Fund of the Ministry of Education, Youth and Science. enlargement started under the supervision of French and Italian engineers. As a result, in 1837 the area of the fortress was already 10,211 m2. References It was the subject of the first paintings of the Belogradchik Rocks made by the Hungarian traveller and scientist Felix Kanitz in 1873. One of the aquarelles (Fig. 10, left) shows the Angelov V, Antonov M, Gerdzhikov S, Klimov I, Petrov P, Kiselinov H, Dobrev G, Sinnyovsky D, Pristavova S (2006a) entrance to the medieval fortress with a Turkish garrison Geological map of the Republic of Bulgaria 1:50,000, K-34- arsenal several years before the liberation of the Bulgarian 21-B (Knyazhevats) and K-34-22-A (Belogradchik). Sofia, country in 1878. The Belogradchik fortress is considered to Ministry of Environment and Water, Bulgarian National be the best preserved medieval stronghold in Bulgaria and Geological Survey Angelov V, Antonov M, Gerdzhikov S, Klimov I, Petrov P, Kiselinov was declared a historical and cultural monument. It was H, Dobrev G, Pristavova S (2006b) Explanatory note to the restored and reorganized for public visits. Now, it is an Geological map of the Republic of Bulgaria scale 1:50,000, map integral part of the famous tourist attraction Belogradchik sheet K-34-21-B (Knyazhevats) and K-34-22-A (Belogradchik). Rocks. Now the medieval fortress and the Roman castellum Sofia, Ministry of Environment and Water, Bulgarian National “ ” Geological Survey, pp 108 Kaleto are the main tourist attractions for thousands of Blanqui J (1843) Voyage en Bulgarie pendant l’année 1841. visitors of the Belogradchik Rocks. Coquebert, Paris, pp 150–152 Author's personal copy

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