Ralph Lauren Watches from Brand President, Martial Petit

2013/2014 EVERYDAY CHIC EVERYDAY MARCO BICEGO’S DELICACIES MARCO

THE WOMEN OF MAD MEN THE WOMEN DAVID YURMAN’S WORLD OF BEAUTY YURMAN’S WORLD DAVID

ROLEX MAKES COLLECTORS HAPPY HAPPY MAKES COLLECTORS ROLEX Time

Interprets A TUFTS COMMUNICATIONS FINE JEWELRY FINE PUBLICATION COMMUNICATIONS TUFTS A Lauren

MAGAZINE Ralph

BENARI MAGAZINE • EXTON & NEWTOWN SQUARE, PA • 2014/2015 • ISSUE 5 24111_DY_Benari_SL440.indd 1

Account Name BENARI JEWELERS Publication Name - Color 4 COLOURS Image Selection M8-LF14 Bleed size 18.25” (W) X 11.125” (H) Trim size 18” (W) X 10.875” (H) Live Area - Date of Request 01/09/2014 Due Date - Layout Version 1ST LAYOUT - 01/09/2014 COOP IN HOUSE UK WATCH STIRRUP DIAM PETITE LINK 9X10,875.indd Toutes les pages 09/09/14 14:15 COOP IN HOUSE UK WATCH STIRRUP DIAM PETITE LINK 9X10,875.indd Toutes les pages 09/09/14 14:15 memorable moments

Benari was honored to support TeamNaya at the Four Seasons Parkway Run & Walk to help raise funds for pediatric cancer research.

Benari Jewelers owner, Jacob BenAri received a personal Benari Jewelers proudly served as the exclusive jewelry sponsor for the Hamels invitation from Marco Bicego himself in Italy. Foundation’s Diamonds and Denim event for the third year in a row.

299 Main Street • Exton, PA 19341 3606 West Chester Pike • Newtown Square, PA 19073 BenariJewelers.com Harold was personally invited to attend a Breitling one-one-one training in Basel, Switzerland where he took a scenic helicopter tour.

We were honored to receive valuable sales training for our new line of Ralph Lauren Watches from Brand President, Martial Petit.

A few moments from memorable events at Benari Jewelers this year. A memorable BENARI BRIDE moment of Justin proposing to Laura at the Grand Canyon.

BENARI JEWELERS MAGAZINE [9 contents ISSUE FIVE • BENARI JEWELERS MAGAZINE

8 Benari Memorable Moments 11 Welcome 12 Mikimoto’s Modern Classics 14 Women of Mad Men 18 Rolex Keeps Collectors Happy 24 Jewelry Trend Report p18 28 David Yurman’s World of Beauty 30 Guardians of the Estate 32 Roberto Coin — Everyday Chic 34 Layer Upon Layer 36 Marco Bicego’s Delicacies 38 Breitling Navitimer 40 TAG Heuer Times the Races p34 43 The Meaningful Beauty of John Hardy 45 Bali Beaches 46 Ralph Lauren Interprets Time 47 Get Your Tom On 50 How to Choose a Jeweler 56 Ball — The Watch that Rocks 59 Man About Town p64 62 Classic Lines 64 Your Benari Wedding Planner

Todd Tufts • Editor in Chief/Publisher/Creative Director Carol Besler • Assistant Editorial Director Larry Stuart • Art Director Stephen Lewis • Assistant Copy Editor Vence Vida • Production Manager/Designer Kyle Boyer • Designer Nell Hoving Photography • Select Jewelry Photography

*Prices subject to change. Please contact the store for current pricing and availability.

Benari Jewelers Magazine is published by Tufts Communications, 1201 E. 5th Street, Suite 1009 • Anderson, IN 46012 T: 765-608-3081 • E: [email protected] • © 2014, Tufts Communications. All rights reserved. Printed in the USA. WELCOME TO BENARI JEWELERS MAGAZINE

Better Brands. Better Service. Better Selection.

DEAR FRIENDS,

Warmest greetings from all of us at BENARI JEWELERS. This year we look forward to the opportunity to share with you our passion for exquisite jewelry. Year after year, we endeavor to stay ahead of the latest jewelry and watch industry trends and innovations, while staying true to our high standards and objectives: to give the utmost attention to customer service, provide knowledgeable sales assistance and guidance in a friendly and truthful manner, and to offer great value and unsur- passed quality with every purchase. We are dedicated to creating an experience that allows those who visit our store to enter as customers, but leave as members of the BENARI family.

We welcome the opportunity to help you select the perfect gift to honor those who give you special meaning to your life. We treasure the experience of being part of your celebrations, from generation to generation. In closing, may this coming year be one of good health, joyous occasions and prosperity. Many of you have been loyal customers and friends for a long time. We are grateful for your continuing friendship and patronage. As always, we appreciate the experience of sharing your personal celebrations. We look forward to seeing you soon!

Sincerely, – The Benari Family

299 Main Street • Exton, PA 19341 3606 West Chester Pike • Newtown Square, PA 19073 BenariJewelers.com by CAROL BESLER designer spotlight

Mikimoto’s Modern Classics

The world’s original pearl company celebrates its heritage

A century ago, Mikimoto established its first black cultured pearl farm on Okinawa Island. Since then, the brand remains the authority in the highest quality black South

Sea cultured pearl. Black South Sea cultured pearl, mint tourmaline and diamond Innovation is always at the heart of Mikimoto, as rare stones and precious metals – earrings in 18k white gold. and, of course, pearls – combine to create contemporary classics. Mikimoto’s earrings, rings, bracelets and necklaces incorporate Akoya, as well as natural black, white, golden, multi-color or baroque South Sea cultured pearls, offering a varied palette. Classic to contemporary, everyday essentials to evening or bridal wear, each piece is a flawless example of the company’s design aesthetic. Eighteen-karat white, yellow and rose gold or platinum are used exclusively for clasps and other adornments, while the finest silk thread strings the strands. This year, in celebration of the discovery of the Black South Sea The Mikimoto limited-edition strand of multi-colored South Sea cultured pearl, Mikimoto has created a limited-edition set that features a pearls celebrates the discovery of the black South Sea pearl. multi-colored black South Sea cultured pearl necklace with de- tachable bracelet, embellished with a special Mikimoto an- niversary clasp. The 1914 gradient pearl set showcases the different variations and tones of black pearls – peacock, pistachio, aubergine, slate, grey, silver and midnight black with overtones of green, rose and blue.

Black South Sea cultured pearl and diamond Twist earrings in 18k white gold.

Multi-colored black South Sea cultured pearl strand with pavé diamond rondelles in 18k yellow and 18k white gold.

12] BENARI JEWELERS MAGAZINE 23752_MM_Benari_WSS-long.indd 1

MIKIMOTO.COM 9/2/14 4:57 PM hollywood beauties

THE WOMEN OF

MAD MENby SHANNON HOUSTON

14] BENARI JEWELERS MAGAZINE Christina Hendricks as Joan Holloway he final season of Mad Men is under way. Don, Roger, Pete — you guys are great. Really, you are. But the women of Mad Men are kind of a huge deal. As the great Waka Flocka Flame would say if he were tuning in to the AMC show (and if we were back in 2010), Peggy, Betty, and Joan go hard in the paint. In anticipation of another great season for these women, here are just a few reasons we’re all going to have a difficult time letting go of Elisabeth Moss, Christina Hendricks, and January Jones of Mad Men.

W e're Gonna Need More Peggy Olsons, Please Any conversation about the women of Mad Men has to begin with the incomparable Peggy Olson. Peggy Olson is the answer to practically everything every feminist with a television set has been asking for since the dawn of feminism and television sets. Now that she is here, this statement can be made in full confidence: We don’t need more women on television. We need more Peggy Olsons. To say that Elisabeth Moss’s performance has stolen the show would be putting it lightly. Jon Hamm’s Don Draper has become iconic, but Peggy Olson is complex and revolutionary in ways that Draper simply is not (and, arguably, is not meant to be). From the moment she handed that “basket of kisses” over to Freddy Rumsen, to the time she had way too much fun researching “The Rejuvenator,” all the way up until she slayed Draper himself when she walked into a boardroom with an enormous Heinz ketchup bottle on a poster, Peggy Olson has consistently proven that she goes beyond the scope. She goes hard, and for that we thank her.

We don’t need more women taking their clothes off on television, for what- Elizabeth Moss as Peggy Olson ever reason — titillation, feminism, plot. We need more Peggy Olsons. We need more versions of that one scene in “Waldorf Stories” where Peggy life. There was that time when she invited Dawn to her house and they shared Olson takes off her clothes to call Stan Rizzo’s bluff and then proceeds to dis- that awkward moment, when Peggy, if only for a second, became that young, cuss the Vicks account. It was one of the only times in the history of women purse-clutching white woman. She didn’t end up taking her purse out of the taking off their clothes on television that actually, truly meant something. It room, but she damn sure thought about it. meant, I’m calling you out — liberals, and nudists, and feminists, and everyone. Peggy Olson is not a superhero. She is not a god among men (though it You don’t really want to be naked and free, and if for a moment someone gave takes everything in me not to call her that). In truth, she’s really just a very it to you, you wouldn’t know what to do with it. Well, we should probably let well-written television character. But the writers took it upon themselves to Peggy speak for herself: “I can work like this. Let’s get liberated.” turn her into a representation of so many other issues. So Peggy functions as We don’t need more fearless, strong women on television. We need more this double signifier of change. As Peggy Olson onMad Men represents the versions of that one scene where Peggy Olson finally quits in “The Other changing times for women in the 1960s, Elisabeth Moss playing Peggy Olson Woman,” just after Sterling Cooper Draper Pryce lands the coveted Jaguar represents an evolution of representations of women in contemporary media. account. She is simultaneously strong and confident and terrified, but mainly She’s not the new Don Draper. She’s Peggy Olson (and she wants to smoke terrified. some marijuana. Nope, couldn’t resist). In this moment — and in many others on the show — Peggy is not a fierce, independent woman. There’s no real empowering GIF that could be In Defense of Betty Draper created out of this moment, and there is not a Beyoncé song in the world Oh, January Jones. Is that you? Or is that Betty Draper/Francis being all that could explain to us the magnitude of this scene. Peggy has had her fair vapid and ridiculous? The world may never know. Okay, here is the truth, for share of badass moments and so has Don, but this isn’t it for either of them. me, about the second Mrs. Draper. If you pay close attention, she is crazy — This is a moment of weakness. Even as she’s doing the right thing, the adult in a way that she never would have revealed to her therapist — and it makes thing, the feminist thing, it’s killing her! And even though it’s problematic her whole existence invaluable. Or as Buzzfeed once eloquently put it, there to say this — even though this is not the defining moment of Peggy Olson have been at least thirteen moments when Betty Draper didn’t give a damn. — watching her become the only woman to truly bring Don Draper to his One of the first times we learned this was during season one. We all remem- knees in a real, please-don’t-leave, can’t-let-go-of-your-hand way is deeply ber the pigeon incident. This is what happens when you live next door to the satisfying to at least one feminist in this world. (That would be me.) Drapers and you casually threaten their family dog. Betty Draper will shoot your We don’t agree with her all of the time. Some of us still cannot get over the beloved pigeons down one by one while Bobby Vinton plays in the background. fact that biologically she’s a mother, but in reality her child has no place in her Betty Draper will also cut off a lock of her hair and give it to your young son

BENARI JEWELERS MAGAZINE [15 January Jones as Betty Draper

Joan Holloway Shows Us How To Werk A Friendship Joan Holloway makes us uncomfortable. From the very first episode, as she ushers us into the crazy world of Madison Avenue and introduces us to work life at Sterling Cooper, we feel awkward next to her. Admit it — your jaw was on the floor when she looked Peggy Olson right in the eyes and made the following speech with a straight face:

"Go home, take a paper bag, cut some eyeholes out of it. Put it over your head, get undressed, and look at yourself in the mirror. Really evaluate where your strengths and weaknesses are. And be honest."

Instantly we hated her. Or loved her. Or hated her. It was impossible to say for sure.It’s easy to see Joan from the perspective of the men who love, lust, and obsess over her — Roger Sterling; Lane Pryce; Greg Harris; Bob Ben- son; that horrible horror of horrors, Herb Rennet from Jaguar. Hell, even Don Draper broke down and had to get her flowers one day. We could consider some of the most powerful moments her story brought to the show. Because of Joan’s character and “The Mountain King” episode, we learned that there are still many, many people who believe that you cannot really be raped by your fiancé (or that if you go out to dinner after being raped, that means it wasn’t really rape). Joan’s sexual arrangement with Herb has also sparked much dialogue — and rightly so. Is she a prostitute? An entrepreneur? Is she the next Peggy Olson? All valid questions, all open for debate. But there is one aspect of Joan that should receive as much attention as her waist-to-hip ratio and her relationships with the men on the series. More than a gorgeous emerald dress, more than a boardroom full of men, Joan Holloway knows how to werk the hell out of a relationship. She is — or becomes — an and then slap you in the supermarket if you call her on it. (Remember Helen unbelievably amazing friend. Of all the roles we see women play on television, Bishop?) Because Betty Draper is nuts. this may be one of the least common. Her interactions with Peggy are the most Then there was that time when she took her crazy to a whole new level interesting to watch, as their friendship is one that transforms over the seasons. during a conversation with second husband Henry Francis. The season six Joan does not start out as an unbelievably amazing friend, especially as Peggy premiere rape joke heard round the world (described by creator Matt Weiner goes on to gain new responsibilities in the office. She’s jealous and simultane- as proof that Betty is not bland, but rather, playfully perverse) had us all won- ously arrogant, and it was sometimes unpleasant to watch. But eventually she dering if we really just heard what we thought we heard. Did Betty Francis becomes an actual friend, even if we still get the sense that she sees Peggy as a just joke about helping her husband rape her adolescent daughter’s friend kid sister. The world of Mad Men feels that much more true to life when we’re Sandy, the violin prodigy?! watching Peggy and Joan lament their work troubles behind closed doors. You almost wish the writers could have given her more moments like this, In the season six episode “To Have and to Hold,” we got a glimpse into but that would have taken away from the genius of it all. Betty is a fascinating another important friendship in Joan’s life. Kate, the Mary Kay saleswoman character because she’s full of surprises; if she shoots too many pigeons, or (also a notable woman of Mad Men, as she was in town looking to make a big makes too many horribly inappropriate jokes, the wholly important surprise career move with Avon), shows up at a crucial point in Joan’s life. Because Joan factor becomes nonexistent. agreed to sleep with Herb in exchange for a partnership, she’s being criticized Like many of the women characters on Mad Men, she’s simultaneously at work and her marriage to Greg is in a shambles. But Kate shows up and unique and a symbol of her time — when she fires Carla, she’s dripping does what best friends from out of town are supposed to do: she reminds Joan with white privilege; when she sleeps with the door-to-door salesman, she that she is a brilliant, amazing, inspiring human being and gets her into a little is the epitome of the desperate housewife; but when she catches that flight trouble for the night. The two end up making out with a couple of young fellas to elope in Reno (baby Gene in tow), and when she teaches those squatters in a club while Bonnie and Clyde plays. Because that’s what friends are for. in the city how to make goulash, she’s something totally other. However She’ll also give you valuable advice, when you haven’t quite figured out you read Betty — too cruel, too cold, or too crazy — her significance on the your upper management position: “You want to be taken seriously? Stop show should never be doubted. dressing like a little girl.”

16] BENARI JEWELERS MAGAZINE marcobicego.com by CAROL BESLER designer spotlight

keeps collectors happy

Every year, amidst a sea of New colors, online predictions and wish-list jeweling and a postings, watch aficionados and fans ceramic break- of Rolex eagerly await the brand’s new introductions. The new models through for Rolex introduced this year did not disappoint. The Oyster Perpetual GMT Master II, with red and blue Cerachrom bezel.

18] BENARI JEWELERS MAGAZINE The most talked about novelty was the long awaited Oyster Perpetual GMT Master with a distinctive red and blue bezel (which Rolex lovers call the “Pepsi” because of its coloring). The GMT Master II captures the color code of the original 1955 version of this iconic model, but with a Cerachrom bezel for the first time. It is a particular color combination that is extremely difficult to do in ceramic, not just in terms of achieving a seamless break between red and blue halves — a major accomplishment in itself — but because this particular shade of red is a chal- lenge, and long considered impossible to create in ceramic. (The bezel of the 1955 version was Plexiglass). The new GMT Master II also has a revamped movement, the self-winding Caliber 3186, with a blue Parachrom hairspring made of niobium and zirconium, which is ten-times more precise than a conventional hairspring and highly shock resistant. The 40mm case is white gold, and the model is not limited. Rolex also introduced an updated version of the Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller this year. The model was first launched in 1967 as the Sea-Dweller 2000 (water resistant to 2,000 feet), and the new one is the Sea-Dweller 4000 (water resistant to 4,000 feet). The only other revision of this iconic model was in 1978, also rated at 4,000 feet. New is the black Cerachrom bezel with PVD platinum markers, gold Chromalight hands and markers, blue Parachrom hairspring (in Caliber 3135) and a bracelet with Glidelock extension system and Oysterlock safety clasp. The new version, which is steel, retains the look of the ’70s version, including the famous helium escape valve. Another innovation is a collection of three new versions of the Sky-Dweller: 18k Everose

Rolex Oyster Perpetual gold case and bracelet (with a beautiful “Sundust” dial); 18k white gold on a strap; and 18k Sea-Dweller. yellow gold on a strap. The Sky-Dweller, with 14 patents, was first launched to acclaim in 2012 and includes a bezel-driven function setting. With Caliber 9001, it has a dual time zone and annual calendar, with months uniquely displayed through apertures on the periphery of the dial.

The three new versions of the Rolex Sky-Dweller. Female collectors are thrilled to see the new Oyster Perpetual A new series of Oyster Perpetual models in 31mm and 36mm sizes previewed exclusive new dials in sporty colors, including Azzurro Blue, Red Datejust Pearlmaster Grape, White Grape (a gold tone), Steel and White Lacquer with blue Roman 34 collection this year, numerals. The watches contain the Caliber 3130 self-winding movement, with Parachrom hairspring. Two of the watches are set with diamonds in combi- a series of three 34mm nation with either blue or pink sapphires in two different shades — with the models that are gems adjacent to the hour markers contrasted in a slightly darker hue. The Oyster Perpetual Milgauss is another favorite of collectors. An an- gem-set, each with ti-magnetic timepiece designed for engineers and scientists in the 1950s, it was options that include reintroduced in 2007 with a unique green sapphire crystal, a first in watchmaking. This year’s version features an electric blue dial which, under the green diamonds on the crystal, takes on a powerful magnetic hue. This is perhaps the most unique bracelets as well color combination of any other Rolex watch, and is sought after by both men and women, and by both aficionados and newcomers to the brand alike. as the cases.

The Oyster Perpetual Datejust The Oyster Perpetual Pearlmaster with Milgauss features a diamonds. new electric blue dial.

20] BENARI JEWELERS MAGAZINE A new series of Oyster Perpetual models previewed exclusive new dials in sporty colors.

CALIBRE DE CARTIER DIVER MANUFACTURE MOVEMENT 1904 MC

WATER-RESISTANT TO 300 METERS, THE CALIBRE DE CARTIER DIVER WATCH IS AN AUTHENTIC DIVING WATCH. FITTED WITH THE 1904 MC MOVEMENT, IT COMBINES THE HIGH TECHNICAL REQUIREMENTS OF THE ISO 6425: 1996 STANDARD WITH THE ASSERTIVE AESTHETICS OF THE CALIBRE DE CARTIER WATCH. ESTABLISHED IN 1847, CARTIER CREATES EXCEPTIONAL WATCHES THAT COMBINE DARING DESIGN AND WATCHMAKING SAVOIR-FAIRE. www.cartier.us

Advertiser: Cartier Ad: Calibre Diver Rose Gold PUWA1594 Publication: Benari Catalog Issue: November 2014 Bleed: 18.25" x 11.125" Trim: 18" x 10.875" COLOR TAG INFO Safety: 17.5" x 10.375" Giga Job#: 68090 ______/ / ©2014 Cartier ©2014

CALIBRE DE CARTIER DIVER MANUFACTURE MOVEMENT 1904 MC

Meira T Designs Australian Blue Opal, 14kt two-tone gold necklace. JewelryTREND REPORT Jewelry trends this year are all about updated classics, innovative design and flawless qual- Quality and ity. Designers are putting a new twist on enduring styles — everything from button earrings innovation are to the cocktail ring — giving classic looks a contemporary feel. There is a growing sense of fearless creativity in jewelry design, the result of greater demand for jewelry that is unique the top trends and makes an individual statement. Designs are often built around one special gemstone, or in jewelry this based on shapes that make collections unique and unforgettable. This year we see everything year, no matter from the sensuous curves of bamboo to the angles of urban architecture and even the shape what the style of a 1950s television screen. Perhaps the one over-arching trend that is evident in most fine jewelry today is a greater attention to craftsmanship across the board. The standard of quality and workmanship has notably increased, and the mark of the craftsman can be seen in even the most accessible pieces. For diamonds and gemstones, only stones with high quality, cut and color values are making the grade. Here are a few of our picks for what’s trending right now in jewelry, but don’t let the word “trend” fool you. We have chosen pieces that qualify as modern classics, guaranteed to look beautiful for years to come Colored Gemstones

he allure of colored gemstones never goes out of style, but each season brings its favor- T ites. This year, shades of purple dominate, in tune with Pantone’s Color of the Year, Radiant Orchid. But blue is still a strong color in jewelry, heralding a new age of popularity for fine blue sapphire and for the lighter shades of blue chalcedony and lots of aquamarine. Roberto Coin 18kt rose gold necklace & earrings (By the way, sapphire comes in many different colors, and being one of the hardest gems, it with green agate, black jade, and diamonds. is highly appropriate for rings). And opal is one of the strongest gems in the jewelry market right now at all levels. Because of opal’s unique play of color, no two ever seem exactly the same, and the gem works with so many different colors of complementary gemstones (and fashions!), making it a highly versatile gem.

David Yurman Renaissance green onyx, peridot, & turquoise cuff.

24] BENARI JEWELERS MAGAZINE hottest trends

14kt white gold cluster bangle bracelets with white Black and and black diamonds. White

here is something timeless, classic and elegant about black and T white, the world’s most sophisticated color combination. In jewelry, it reignites the styles of the Art Deco era, with diamonds and onyx or black sapphire. Today, many more gems are available to create the elegance of black and white, including white sapphires, white or black spinel. And styles are not just Art Deco but also Bohemian Chic, with long necklaces, hand crafted chains and even blackened metals for an edgier look. Black and white can be worn with virtually anything, and will never, ever go out of style.

Black Diamond faceted necklace. Available in a variety of lengths.

14kt white gold black faceted diamond halo spilt shank ring. Diamonds

Hearts on Fire 18kt white gold Aerial iamonds are the single most important gem in fine jew- diamond earrings. Delry and timepieces, and have never been more popular. In both bridal and fashion pieces, there is a trend toward large cushion-shaped diamonds surrounded by halos of smaller gems, often colored diamonds or even colored gemstones, as well as white diamonds. Diamond slices are also still popular, lending a contemporary mosaic feel to fine fashion jewelry. There are some classic diamond segments that will never go out of style: right hand rings, long necklaces with sta-

tions of diamonds, classic tennis bracelets, and Hearts on Fire 18kt yellow gold Copley ear studs. And of course, quality never goes diamond bangles. out of style. Look into picking a special cut that gives a diamond maximum sparkle or brilliance.

26] BENARI JEWELERS MAGAZINE - apromise that eachisbeautiful,rare and responsibly sourced. Less thanonepercent oftheworld’s diamondscancarrytheForevermark inscription A TRUEPROMISEWILLNEVERBEBROKEN Forevermark ispart ofThe De BeersGroup ofCompanies.

DAVID YURMAN’S

David Yurman’s background as a sculptor and his appreciation for the enduring motifs in everyday life are evident in his collections for this fall. An avid equestrian, Yurman has long been inspired by the classic devices of the equestrian world — stirrups, bits, halters and other equipmentWor used in tack. ld of The Cable Buckle collection is an evolution of the designer’s original Thorough- bred collection. The buckle, which takes its cue from that found on a horse’s bit, is paired with a curb link chain in some pieces, and with the designer’s iconic cable motif in others. The designs are rendered in sterling silver with 14k yellow gold highlights. Some are set with diamonds. Beauty The new pieces from this season’s Confetti collection are a reinterpretation of David Yurman’s original design. The stacked rows of metal set with

cushion-shaped gemstones capture the effect of light and color dancing on a Confetti Wide ring with blue topaz and grid. In fact, the original working title of the collection was “spots and dots,” a Hampton blue topaz in sterling silver. reference to reflected points of light. The new pieces are a refinement of this concept, evoking a relaxed geometry with an organic, delicate balance. Colored gemstones and diamonds are set in a petite mosaic, adorning cabled metal in a playful dance. Since its founding in New York in 1980, David Yurman has become known as America’s leading fine jewelry and timepiece brand. It features a range of signature gold and silver designs, as well as diamond, pearl, and gemstone jewelry.

Confetti Narrow bracelet with white diamonds in sterling silver.

Cable Buckle bracelet with white diamonds in sterling silver.

Confetti Wide bracelet with blue topaz and Hampton blue topaz in sterling silver.

28] BENARI JEWELERS MAGAZINE The designer’s fall collections are inspired by motifs ranging from the equestrian world to confetti by DEBORAH YONICK estate jewelry

guardians of the

fine, casual, chic jewelry does its influence extends through the ’50s and ’60s, and into current day. Cartier, Tiffany and Van Cleef & Arpels are considered to have cre- not always have to be newly made ated some of their most iconic work during the Art Deco period. But the buzz in estate circles is that the works of Suzanne Belperron are destined Consumers searching for special pieces unique to them are finding to be a collector’s favorite. Ahead of her time, Belperron was among that jewels from the past deliver in design, craftsmanship, investment the most revolutionary designers of the 20th century. A head designer at value and personal meaning. Maison René Boivin (1919-1932), her unsigned designs diverged from The market for antique and estate jewelry is robust, with demand conventional Art Deco style in gold and semi-precious stones as opposed strong in very rare, high-end pieces, gem quality pearls and colored to platinum and diamonds. She gained increasing notoriety after a May stones as well as fine signed jewels from top houses like Van Cleef & 2012 Sotheby’s Geneva sale of her own personal collection. Arpels, Cartier, Boucheron, Lalique and Harry Winston. There is also a Jewelry from the 1940s, especially big chunky bracelets in yellow growing movement among brides and grooms to make their “something and pink gold, with sprinkles of diamonds, or necklaces with gems and old” a wedding or engagement ring from the past. enamel are spot on trend. Moreover, there’s a resurgence in brooches that Previously owned jewelry doesn’t always imply signed pieces from also serve as pendants and hairpieces. In fact, head ornaments like tiaras elite jewelry houses, though. It is also possible to find affordable, mean- and bejeweled headbands are very much in fashion. Likewise, cameos ingful alternatives to auction pieces. And many pre-owned finds are from all eras, some carved out of gems like layered agate and jasper, are unique, with elements such as old mine cuts, romantic filigree designs back in vogue, especially in pendants and rings. and period style characteristics, making them stand apart from more But the real sizzle, many say, is in mid-century modern, particularly modern pieces. There is also a lot of interest in recycling today, which the 1960-’70s, as more goods are available from this time than in earlier appeals to buyers of estate jewelry. periods, offering some amazing finds. Especially popular are wildlife and nature patterns, something that gained a following in the 1960s among major houses like David Webb, Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels. popular periods People who hunt for estate and antique jewelry are drawn by the Art Deco, nearly 100 years old now, remains the most enduring design thrill of the chase. You never know what your treasure-hunting dealer period in estate jewelry, a market favorite for its timeless on-trend qual- or retailer has uncovered in the dusty jewelry boxes of previous owners ities. Recognized for its mix of bold colors, geometric forms and diverse who, for one reason or another, want to sell their pieces – it’s always materials, Deco style is modern and easy to wear. Diamonds were very something different, always a surprise. Imagine channeling your inner popular in the period, often with rubies, sapphires and emeralds, and the Marilyn Monroe, wearing an amazing 1959 diamond floral necklace by use of black onyx contrasted with white diamonds and rock crystal is a de- Harry Winston! Collectors of estate jewelry relish in the artistry, history fining characteristic. While the period covers the early 1920s to mid 1930s, and beauty of what they may discover.

30] BENARI JEWELERS MAGAZINE SCALARE COLLECTION by CAROL BESLER designer spotlight

Everyday

Padlock pendants from the Roberto Coin Pois Moi collection, in 18k yellow and white gold, with diamond accents.

Pois Moi is Roberto Coin’s new down-to-earth signature collection for elegant everyday wear

Italian jewelry maestro Roberto Coin is well known for his whimsical, creative pieces, many of which have graced the red carpet and the covers of hic high fashion magazines. His genius has produced everything from bracelets in the form of fire breathing dragons to a diamond-studded ring sculpted to resemble the head of a roaring tiger whose tongue is set with pink sapphires. Although these C quirky showstoppers often steal the spotlight, Roberto Coin has also demonstrated a deep understanding of the need for well-designed, well-crafted everyday gold jewelry — not every occasion calls for a roaring diamond tiger. Coin’s day wear tends Earrings in 18k rose gold, with diamond accents, from the Pois Moi collection.

toward the classic — it is wearable, modern, yet occasionally with traditional or vintage design codes, and always made according to the same principles of craftsmanship as the finest piece of high jewelry. His latest signature collection is the Pois Moi, which is distinctive both for its shape and finish. The shape of most of the earrings, rings, bangles, pendants and cuff links in the collection was inspired by the rounded-off square television monitors of the 1950s. Coin’s modern take on this retro shape is both refined and avant-garde, and the collection has become an instant classic. The collection’s other signature design code is its pattern of slight indentations or perforations in the gold. This grid of round indentations adds texture and creates subtle light return, an interesting take on the surface finish of gold. “Even if the design appears extremely linear and simple, the manufacturing technique is very complicated and requires the highest precision,” says the designer.

Bangles in 18k yellow gold, from the Pois Moi collection. 32] BENARI JEWELERS MAGAZINE “After the huge success of the Appassionata collection, I was looking for something with an innovative design that could become a signature style in the same way,” says Coin. “The design is ultra-modern, with a touch of vintage, so it perfectly fits a woman of any age. “The pattern comes from mixing different ideas,” he says, “including the texturing of the gold and the ‘pois’ (polka dot) trend seen at the Spring fashion shows. This style has never been introduced in the jewelry world. In particular, the soft, square silhouette finds its inspiration in the Italian vintage trend called ‘television shape,’ reminiscent of the old monitors of the 1950s.”

Circular pendants in 18k yellow gold from the Pois Moi collection.

Gold is the primary element, but many pieces are set with diamonds and other gemstones. Many feature pavé diamond details. Each piece includes a hidden 0.3 carat ruby, a signature of the designer, meant to bring good luck to the wearer. Roberto Coin feels the Pois Moi collection is unlike anything he has ever created. In fact, when asked what makes Pois Moi typically Roberto Coin, or how it compares to other pieces in his line, he replies, “It does not compare at all. Pois Moi has a design that I never thought I would create. If five or six years ago you had asked me Square shaped bangle and ring about a design like Pois Moi, I would unfortunately have answered from the Pois Moi collection, in 18kt rose gold, with white diamond you that I was not interested at all. The first reason I finally designed pavé detail, and a Roberto Coin signature hidden 0.3 carat ruby. the collection is because of the current real market situation. I knew I had to create something that is new, young, innovative and super chic, something powerfully elegant as I like to define the Pois Moi collection.” As usual, his instincts were right on target. “The reason why it is already an icon is the huge success the collection has had with the public, which is the final arbiter, and because of the extreme elegance that only simplicity can make eternal,” he says. Despite this renewed commitment to the everyday, accessible Pois Moi collection, Coin has not abandoned his love for the glittering showpieces that are his trademark. To the question, ‘what single item of jewelry should every woman should own?’ he replies: “A big and colored cocktail ring, the larger the better.” Square shaped cuff links and rings from the Pois Moi collection, in 18k yellow gold and white diamond pavé detail.

BENARI JEWELERS MAGAZINE [33 women’s fashion Layer uponLayer

After months of never-ending heat, fall is finally here. Time to switch up your wardrobe! Since temperatures can fluctuate this time of year, consider layering. It’s an effective way to stay comfortable even if the weather changes dramatically. Here are four basics that are perfect for adding style and comfort to your autumn ensemble.

34] BENARI JEWELERS MAGAZINE Fitted Blazer Few clothing pieces can add casual sophistication to your outfit like a fitted blazer does. Seen on everyone from Kate Middleton to Gwen Stefani, this must-have fall item has an incredibly diverse range. Make a bold statement with a blazer in a vibrant hue, or keep it conservative by wearing one in a neutral shade like black or navy.

Comfy Cardigan Cardigans may be a classic, but with so many choices out there, you are sure to find one that is all your own. Go completely classic with a relatively loose monochromatic cardigan over a dress shirt, or spice it up by rocking patterns and vivid colors.

Fall is here and with it comes crisp, cool weather. Make sure your closet is stocked with these must-have basic autumn staples for layering so that you look great while staying warm.

Pea Coat Great for those autumn days when the weather more closely resembles winter, a pea coat is a great way to top off a layered ensemble when the temperatures get chilly. Its fitted shoulders and sturdy sleeves can emphasize an outfit’s structured edge, or it can give a structured twist to an otherwise whimsical and delicate look.

Cashmere Sweater This one can be a little pricy, but it is well worth it! This comfortable addition to any wardrobe adds more than classic style to your outfit; it adds an element of supreme comfort too. It comes in a variety of cuts that can suit any style or taste, whether you prefer the U-shaped neck, V-necks, or sweaters that are extra-long.

BENARI JEWELERS MAGAZINE [35 by CAROL BESLER designer spotlight

Marco Bicego’s Delicacies

18k hand engraved yellow gold necklace with 18k hand engraved yellow gold aquamarine, from the Lunaria earrings with aquamarine, collection. from the Lunaria collection.

Delicati and Lunaria celebrate the jeweler’s love of nature, travel and delicious baubles Marco Bicego revisits his love of nature this year with Lunaria, a collection inspired by the translucent, disc-shaped seed pods of the Lunaria flower. This unique, organic shape is beautifully interpreted by Bi- cego with petal-like discs of gold that are linked by chains. The surfaces of the “pods” are engraved using the brand’s signature Bulino technique, a satin finish 18k hand engraved yellow gold bracelet with diamonds totaling that lends itself particularly well to the motif because 0.14ct., from the Delicati collection. it creates an organic look, an essential expression of the Marco Bicego style. Each delicate, 18k gold petal-like element is surrounded by a carefully forged frame that is given a contrasting high polish, for an even closer resemblance to the Lunaria pod of nature. The collection includes necklaces, rings, bracelets and earrings, some of which incorporate precious gemstones cut in slices to repeat the shape of the flat, petal-like gold elements. The Delicati collection, also new, is a reflection of two things. First, it is a recognition of the trend in jewelry toward smaller, more delicate pieces that

36] BENARI JEWELERS MAGAZINE Hand engraved bracelet in 18k yellow gold from the Lunaria collection.

Earrings in 18k hand engraved yellow gold, from the Lunaria collection.

18k hand engraved yellow gold pendant with amethyst, from the Delicati collection.

Marco Bicego 18k hand engraved yellow gold pendant with diamonds totaling 0.15ct., from the Delicati collection.

are often worn in multiples – like a treasured assortment of pretty delicacies. Secondly, it is a celebration of Marco Bi- cego’s most popular collections. The designer has recreated the minute details of carefully selected models from current collections and reinterpreted them with new dimensions that are just right for our times. Delicati is also dedicated to the joy of travel, with designs taken from his creations that are named for exotic places, including Jaipur, Murano, Africa and Siviglia. Delicati also stands for “delicate,” reflecting the tremen- dous care that is taken to hand craft each precious piece. Every bracelet, earring and necklace in the collection is de- Marco Bicego 18k hand signed and finished by hand in Italy, using 18k gold, precious engraved yellow gold earrings, from the Delicati colored stones and brilliant cut diamonds. The characteristic collection. Bulino technique of hand finishing identifies it as a Marco Bicego creation. Marco Bicego began his training as an artisan at the atelier of his father, a master jeweler, in the Veneto region of Italy. He went on to create his own jewelry collection more than 10 years ago, which has since become instantly recognizable for its signature multi-textured finish, and for designs that merge organic, natural forms with classic silhouettes. Each piece is made according to the tradition of Italy’s master craftsmen. “All my creations must be manipulated by hand in order for them to represent a unique and luxurious experience,” says Bicego.

BENARI JEWELERS MAGAZINE [37 by CAROL BESLER designer spotlight Breitling Navitimer A celebration of one of the great 20th century watchmaking classics

Pilots have been relying on Breitling’s navigational intruments for the wrist since 1915, when the brand introduced its first chronograph wristwatch. The Swiss watchmaker patented its signature circular slide rule on a wristwatch in 1941. This clever instrument made it possible to convert speeds or distances from one unit of measurement to another. These watches were the forerunners of the legendary Breitling Navitimer, the brand’s flagship aviator’s watch. The first Breitling Navitimer was introduced in 1952, and was pur- pose-built for pilots. It was equipped with a circular slide rule and a chronograph function, and capable of handling all calculations relating to airborne navigation, including division, multiplication, the calculation of averages and fuel consumption. The Navitimer has been in continuous production now for over 60 years, and is considered one of the most iconic watches in the world, always included in the top-ten lists of all-time classics. This year, Breitling introduces three new models. First, a reinterpretation of the classic model in a larger diameter, another with a dual time function and a limited edition with a spectacular bronze dial. All are equipped with high-performance chronometer-certified manufacture Breitling mechanical movements. The Navitimer 46mm is an extra large version that not only enhances readability but emphasizes the iconic black dial, made using the brand’s proprietary “épargne” technique, which gives it a radiant finish. The 46mm model is also available with a blue dial. In 2009, Breitling introduced its own manufacture movement, developed and produced entirely in-house. This self-winding chronograph movement, the Caliber 01, is now used in the Navitimer collection. It is an official chronometer, which means it has been rated to the highest accuracy and reliability standards set by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute. The movement can be seen through the transparent caseback. In addition to the steel version there is a 200-piece limited edition red gold version of the 46mm. The second new Navitimer is a GMT, in an imposing 48mm case, that displays a second time zone in 24-hour mode. Home or reference time is indicated by a red arrow on the 24-hour scale on the inner bezel, while local time is displayed on the main dial. The movement is the Bre- itling Caliber B04, a chronometer rated automatic movement with a 70- hour power reserve. The watch also has a 1/4th of a second chronograph function, with 30-minute and 12-hour totalizers. In addition to the steel version, there is also a 200-piece limited edition GMT in red gold. Both feature Breitling’s signature circular slide rule. The Navitimer also makes an appearance this year with a unique The steel version of the Brietling Navitimer 46mm comes with a matching steel bracelet, a bronze dial. This 1,000-piece limited edition series is called the Navi- leather strap or a crocodile strap. Dial options timer Panamerican, and contains the Breitling Caliber 01. Like the red gold include black or blue. editions of the 46mm and the GMT, it is sure to become a collector’s piece.

38] BENARI JEWELERS MAGAZINE NAV46 BUSA BCClark_BCClarkMag (9x10.875)B_Layout 1 9/2/14 9:34 AM Page 1

A N I C O N J U S T G O T L A R G E R

THE NEW NAVITIMER 46 mm by CAROL BESLER designer spotlight

New Carreras with in-house movements and a Formula One for ladies

TAG Heuer is widely recognized for its chronographs and its progressive approach to technology and design — TAG stands for Technique Avant-Garde. The company’s 154 year history of watchmaking innovation is especially evident this year in the new Carrera collection. The latest models are equipped with TAG Heuer’s newest movement — its second movement entirely manufactured in-house, this time with an unprecedented 80- hour power reserve. The Carrera was the first sports chronograph created specifically for professional drivers and sports-car enthusiasts. It was designed in 1963 by Jack Heuer, great-grandson of the brand’s founder and grandson of the CEO during its golden era of innovation in the 1960s and 1970s. The collection was named for the Carrera Panamericana Mexico Road Race, a grueling, open-road endurance competition. The Carrera is distinguished by its rugged construction and at-a-glance legibility, two things essential to sports watches. Today’s sleek designs are also noted for their uncluttered elegance, helping to coin the phrase “sports- dress watch.” The design elements draw upon the timeless codes of motorsports, including the black and white of vintage dashboard counters and the perforated leather driving gloves favored by professional drivers. This year’s new Carrera Calibre 5 Automatic in steel and rose gold features an H-shaped bracelet, which has become another recognizable signature of the Carrera collection. The blend of gold and fine-brushed steel is finished with meticulously polished edges on lateral rows. There is also a steel and yellow gold version of this 39mm watch.

Monaco 37mm Automatic with steel case, black dial, and black alligator strap. $3,800

40] BENARI JEWELERS MAGAZINE designer spotlight Link 43mm Automatic chronograph with steel case, black dial, and Aquaracer 34mm, in steel and fine-brushed steel 18k rose gold, with an automatic bracelet. $4,350 movement, white dial with rose gold markers, and fine brushed steel and 18k rose gold bracelet. $4,700

The 41mm Carrera 5 Day-Date Automatic is equipped with day and date functions, with rose gold-plated hands, indexes, date window and logo, all meticulously hand applied. The polished and satin-brushed indexes accentuate the contrast with the hands, creating a highly readable dial — a trademark of the Carrera, and a loyal tribute to Jack Heuer’s original design. The date window, with its polished sides, provides a simultaneous day-date display, while the entirely polished case may be fitted with an ergonomic bracelet featuring H-shaped links or an alligator leather strap for a more traditional look.

The Monaco collection is also an essential element of TAG Heuer’s involvement in the racing world. Steve McQueen picked out a TAG Heuer Monaco to go with the white racing suit he wore in the 1971 filmLe Mans, and since then, the chunky square-cased Monaco has been a symbol of speed and savvy, with the unshakable association to McQueen’s era-defining cool. The watch, introduced in 1969 in honor of the Monaco Grand Prix, was the first automatic chronograph and the first chrono to feature a square case. The Aquaracer and Formula One collections are also associated with the high-paced world of auto racing. A highlight of the new Aquaracer collection this year is the elegant steel and 18k gold automatic model. As a tribute to ladies who love the TAG Heuer aesthetic, there is a Formula One for women this

year, in steel and ceramic, set with diamonds. Rounding out the company’s lines is the Link, collection, an elegant dress watch with sporty elements and reliable mechanical movements. Founded in Saint-Imier in 1860 by Edouard Heuer, TAG Heuer is among the elite brands to win the world’s most coveted watchmaking award, the Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix “Aiguille d’Or.” The brand is a sponsor of the F1 Vodafone McLaren Mercedes team and its World Champion Jenson Button, the Automobile Club of Monaco for the prestigious Monaco Grand Prix and the new FIA Formula E Championship, the world’s top competition for electrically powered racing cars. TAG Heuer is also a partner of Oracle Team USA, 2013 champion of sailing’s most prestigious trophy, the 34th America’s Cup.

Formula One 37mm in steel and ceramic, with diamond bezel, white dial, and Carrera 39mm Automatic, with steel and polished white ceramic and 18k rose gold bezel, anthracite dial and steel bracelet. $2,850 42] BENARI JEWELERS MAGAZINE anthracite alligator strap. $4,950 by CAROL BESLER designer spotlight

the meaningful beauty of John Hardy John Hardy began his jewelry brand as a statement about the importance of heritage and the preservation of the environment. Today, that message is stronger than ever — and the jewelry is just as beautiful.

John Hardy, a former art student and environmentalist from Canada, visited Bali for the first time in the 1970s, and was instantly captivated and inspired by the natural beauty of Indonesia. He also fell in love with the jewelry tradition in this exotic land when he encountered local artisans producing handcrafted pieces using the jewelry-making techniques honed by their ancestors. Hardy began to study ancient jewelry artisanship and to work with local goldsmiths. By infusing their ancient techniques with modern ingenuity, he created his epon- ymous jewelry brand in 1975.

Gold and silver medium hoop earrings from the Naga collection.

Square stud earrings with London blue topaz and diamond from the Classic Chain collection.

Slim Flex cuff with black enamel from the Naga collection.

BENARI JEWELERS MAGAZINE [43 designer spotlight

Gold and silver dome ring from the Naga collection.

John Hardy Jewelry is hand Gold and silver Slim Flex cuff from the Naga collection. made according to ancient

Slim Flex cuff with jewelry making techniques white enamel from the Naga collection. that would otherwise be lost.

Hardy added a new dimension to jewelry by bringing his ing new practices, including using 100% reclaimed silver and environmentalist values to the brand. The company’s Bali gold, as well as planting bamboo seedlings in Bali to offset the compound was built using local, low-impact natural materi- company’s carbon emissions. To date, the brand has planted als, including bamboo, adobe and thatch. At its heart is the 900,000 bamboos throughout the island of Bali, helping to design studio, housed in a restored Balinese community hall, sustain the lifestyle of the locals. The bamboos protect the en- an antique timber structure with a natural grass roof. vironment in a variety of ways, including aiding the soil’s natu- Head designer and creative director Guy Bedarida joined ral water retention. Current John Hardy CEO Robert Hanson the company in the 1990s, bringing with him skills and aes- remains committed to John Hardy’s mission of sustainability. thetics developed while working with European high jewelry John Hardy Jewelry is hand made according to ancient jew- brands. Together with Damien Dernoncourt (former John elry making techniques that would otherwise be lost. Com- Hardy CEO and currently non-executive chairman), Bedarida bined with modern know-how, the result is a collection that further elevated the brand’s sustainable philosophy by apply- is beautifully crafted with a timeless appeal.

44] BENARI JEWELERS MAGAZINE travel to bali

Beautiful Coasts and Beautiful Culture The entire country of Indonesia is well-known not only for its some fine dining and shopping while the kids keep up the pace endemic beauty but for its native culture.a Nowhereli are these two at the boardwalk midway. Legian Beach is an ideal getaway for features more evident than on the beaches of the vacation island of families since it offers many forms of entertainment and is less Bali. On this spectacular island, visitors can experience the natural expensive than some of the other beaches. splendor of the beaches while also enjoying the best of 21st century amenities. Here are some of the most beautiful beaches of Bali: One of the more isolated hotspots on Bali, Amed Beach, is mostly B favored by isolationists and by scuba enthusiasts. The beach itself Designed to appeal to Western tastes, the beaches around Kuta are is quite striking: It is black in color and coarse in texture, as it overflowing with all of the amenities expected by American and derives from volcanic stone instead of from the sea. Still, for those European tourists. It is close to the airport and also near a wide in the know, the true treasure of this island is not on the beach variety of local attractions for families and seniors. The area retains but is located a short swim offshore. The remains of a wrecked much of its pre-colonial charm and is a well-maintained area of the WWII vintage ship, the U.S.S. Liberty, lie in various places under Balinese coast. In fact, the beaches are renowned for their cleanliness the water at depths from 30 to 100 feet. This makes Amed Beach and are among the most popular destinations for families. a unique and enjoyable location for divers of all levels.

Known throughout the world surfing community, Balangan Beach is Known throughout Bali as the in spot, Seminyak Beach attracts the the Holy Grail for surfers on this small island. Not only do the waves trendiest visitors from around the world. The young and beautiful break perfectly, but the mood is always laid back and the party never crowd set a staggering pace both day and night. While it can be stops. This is a great beach for the young and for the young at heart. quite expensive, for those travelers who enjoy club hopping from dawn till dusk, Seminyak is the place to be. There is plenty to do on Legian Beach. The question is whether the adults will be able to keep up with the kids. In addition to surfing and snorkeling, there is also scuba diving, windsurfing, and parasailing. When the sun goes down, mom and dad can enjoy by CAROL BESLER designer spotlight

Ralph Lauren Interprets Time What happens when a Fashion icon teams up with the world’s most elite watchmaking company? Something timeless.

Stirrup Petite-Link with snow-set Sporting Classic Chronometer in Stirrup Petite Diamond Link, with RL67 Safari Chronometer 39mm diamond case. steel with black dial. Snowfall Diamond case. with black “aged” steel case.

Fashion world icon Ralph Lauren took the watch world by storm when Ralph Lauren, the design of this iconic timepiece was painstakingly exe- he introduced a full watch collection under his name in 2009, in part- cuted to become an instant classic. nership with the Richemont Group. Since then, the collection has estab- “I love horses, and I love riding, and I always felt that was an inspiration lished a large following. for me,” says Ralph Lauren. “The Stirrup watch felt like a natural motif “The watches I’ve been drawn to represent a passion for design and a representing the whole equestrian world. It’s an important message.” respect for tradition and craftsmanship,” says the designer. “A watch also This year, the company broadened the Stirrup collection with the in- represents something personal. It reflects your individuality and taste — troduction of its new Stirrup Petite-Link models, which are ultra-fem- from its functionality to its aesthetic.” inine with interconnected bracelet links in a size that is pared down Every detail of the Ralph Lauren timepiece collection was meticu- — measuring 23.30mm by 27mm in size. The full diamond pavé version lously developed by the designer himself to express the design codes and conveys a sense of classic elegance and elevates the brand to the realm of the passion for traditional craftsmanship that define understated luxury. high jewelry. When the collection was introduced, Johann Rupert, chairman of the The Sporting collection also reflects a Ralph Lauren lifestyle message, Richemont Group, announced, “This is not a fashion label; this is a seri- in this case, the spirit of sportsmanship and the sense of old-world ad- ous watch,” adding “Ralph Lauren is a perfectionist, a creator.” venture associated with African safaris and classic car rallies. The “aged” “I love designing watches,” says Ralph Lauren. “I love the longevity… black stainless steel case of the new RL67 Safari Chronometer 39mm it’s something that marks time, that you keep.” creates a uniquely vintage look, particularly when paired with the weath- The Stirrup collection in particular has become iconic, and perfectly il- ered canvas strap, in either olive green, black, or blue. The dial’s cream- lustrates Ralph Lauren’s commitment to ensuring the style of his watches colored Arabic numerals, orange seconds hand, and oversized 6 and 12 is consistent with that of the overall spirit of the brand. With the Stirrup, hour markers, are casual, yet classic. Lauren has once again deftly translated the adventure of the equestrian Also new this year in the Sporting collection is the Classic Chro- lifestyle. The silhouette of this watch is unique and immediately identi- nometer in steel with a black dial and contrasting white classic Roman fiable as quintessential of the designer. Inspired by heritage equestrian numerals and railroad-track-style minute markers. It contains the CO- style, a legacy of fine watchmaking, and the celebrated history of Polo SC-certified mechanical self-winding chronometer caliber RL366, with a 42-hour power reserve.

46] BENARI JEWELERS MAGAZINE women’s fashion by LESLIE C. SMITH

While it’s not unusual to see a woman or two take a power-walk down men’s runways, something different happened this season. In more than a few cases, more than a few women took that stroll attired in get menswear, not worn oversized in cheeky reference to their habit of borrowing their boyfriend’s apparel, your but in men’s clothing specifically modified for female use. It left many wondering if this is simply tom a fashion trend destined to fade or, more seriously, the true direction of women’s on wardrobes to come.

What used to represent a raid on your man’s closet has now turned into a full-scale invasion.

Photo courtesy of UGG

BENARI JEWELERS MAGAZINE [47 We’ve seen slacks, suits, and skirt suits before. Both perform admirably in an office setting because of the way they mimic men’s business attire. But today’s suit 2.0 is the real deal — well-tailored trousers and jackets in traditional tweeds, checks, or plaids, shaped and draped for the female form. This means less bulky structure through the chest, much more waist suppression, longer rising flat- front or minimally pleated trousers, and pant legs even narrower than those worn by the most dedicated hipster. How can you tell these new suits really mean business? For us, the biggest tip-off is because they’re being shown paired not with pointy heels but rather sensibly soled Oxfords. The perfect toppers for such outfits are tailored overcoats in similar menswear patternings (and tweed in particular), as well as peacoats and toggled duffels. Traditional men’s shirts and ties, however, have not bridged the sexual divide. Instead, the void is filled with either a deluxe tee or a knitted top, especially any one of this season’s highly popular turtlenecks. Tom-girls needn’t stop their taking ways there either. In fact, a whole raft of men’s casual acquisitions are lined up and waiting for them — tails-out shirts worn with trousers tucked into above-the-ankle boots, chunky cable-knit pull- overs topping pants tapered with heavy-duty steel zips, and sporty varsity jackets and bombers worn over cashmere sweatpants or, the granddaddy of all wardrobe steals, a pair of fly-front jeans.

48] BENARI JEWELERS MAGAZINE DECO DIAMOND, DIAMOND DIAL ON BLUE NIGHTS CRYSTAL

MCW7793_BenariJewelers_Mag_Ad_2.indd 1 7/22/14 1:41 PM by CAROL BESLER industry info

You have probably heard the adage: “If you don’t know jewelry, know your jeweler.”

How to choose a jeweler There is more to buying jewelry than clicking on a picture.

You have probably heard the adage: “If you don’t know jewelry, know Benari Jewelers has created a unique combination. While being a local your jeweler.” The truth is, it’s a good idea, even if you do know jewelry. Philadelphia jewelry store, Benari Jewelers receives national, as well as A reputable, knowledgeable jeweler makes the jewelry shopping process international recognition in the jewelry and watch industries for their easier, more enjoyable, and more successful. When you buy a piece of extensive selection, sterling reputation, exceptional service, integrity, jewelry, you are investing in a work of art, a keepsake that you will be philanthropy, and successful growth. Through the years, the Benari Jew- able to treasure forever as a memory of a milestone in your life — or elers has also been privileged to become the jeweler of choice for clien- even just a celebration of life itself — and you want to make the right tele throughout the United States and around the world. Ydecision. There are many factors to consider beyond simply choosing a Selection is another important criteria that defines a great jewelry store. style that appeals to you, including metal options, gemstone selection and The Benari staff has worked hard to curate a selection that represents properties, colors, and even which brand is right for you. If you’re buying world-renowned brands, as well as unique, one-of-a-kind items, and some of a watch, there is also function to consider. Once you have made your the rarest diamonds and gemstones from around the globe. Aside from top purchase, you want to be confident that it can be professionally serviced, brands that include Rolex, Breitling, David Yurman, Marco Bicego, Roberto repaired, or cleaned. Above all, you want transparency and honesty in Coin, Mikimoto, Benari represents many leading bridal jewelry designers, in- your transaction — someone who will advise and guide you rather than cluding Tacori, Henri Daussi, and Hearts on Fire, as well as in-house experts just sell you what they want you to hear. and master jewelers who can design and handcraft the ring or jewelry, of Benari Jewelers has become the jeweler to get-to-know in Philadelphia your dreams. There is also a wide selection of giftware and accessories such . “We like to form relationships with our clientele,” says Rachel Benari. as fine crystal, pens, cufflinks and more. “We are not looking to simply sell “We go to a lot of life-cycle events in our customers’ lives.” Their experi- jewelry in our store and online,” says Rachel, “but to give our customers the ence adds up to many years of expertise, hands-on jewelry making skills highest level of professional guidance and education necessary to make the and extensive knowledge of gemology and design. best decisions when it comes to such important purchases.”

50] BENARI JEWELERS MAGAZINE B:9.25 in T:9 in S:8.25 in

KERRY WASHINGTON, ACCLAIMED ACTOR. SAPPHIRE™ NEW WOMEN’S BRACELET DESIGN IN STAINLESS STEEL WITH MIRROR DIAL AND DIAMOND ACCENTS. MOVADO.COM RETAILER ©2014 movado group, inc. ©2014 B:11.125 in T:10.875 in S:10.125 in

This advertisement was prepared by: ATLAS PRINT SOLUTIONS Client: Movado Group Creative: Kerry Washington-Sapphire 0606815 MG-330 Mechanical Size: Bleed: 9.25’’ x 11.125’’ Trim: 9’’ x 10.875’’ Color: 4C Due Date: 11.14 Account: Benari Jewelers Publication: Benari Jewelers Holiday Magazine automotive innovation

BMWi ELECTRIC CARS WITH VISION

52] BENARI JEWELERS MAGAZINE It’s no secret that electric vehicles (EVs) are becoming popular. Advances in lithium-ion battery technology have made it possible for EVs to achieve driving ranges that put them in league with some gas-powered cars. BMW is moving in the EV market with an approach that is more holistic than that of many companies. The BMW i series embodies a mindset that could help to propel the entire industry forward by making this new technology as convenient as possible. The Bavarian automaker just might be on track to take the EV market by storm and change the way humans get around. One of the problems that has plagued EV manufacturers is their laser-like focus on the development of individual models. This level of focus has its benefits, but the auto industry has demonstrated that scaling a single vehicle is neither easy nor cost effective. It is far better to design with the idea that parts should be shared across as many models as possible. In the long term, this reduces costs and improves reliability. BMW has applied this principle to the development of its “i” sub-brand. Even more to the point, the EV market is split between those who love EVs for the economy they offer and those who love them for their performance. BMW is offering two vehicle classes as part of an effort to meet the disparate desires of two different markets. It is calling the cars i3 and i8, and they will be the first production models under the “i” sub-brand.

BMW i3 The i3 is the smaller and more utilitarian or the two i cars, but that doesn’t mean it is lacking in amenities or finesse. While it is designed to be supremely functional, the i3 still offers the performance and polish expected from a BMW. Its target market is the urban dweller who needs reliable, efficient, easy-to-use transportation. The i3 offers just that by making the most of its small size. It has a battery that will get it through the average urban day, is full of functional features, and is small enough to park just about anywhere. The i3 is 100% electric, which means it won’t contribute to urban pollution or degrade air quality, but 100% electric vehicles come with range anxiety. BMW has a trick up its sleeve aimed at alleviating that range anxiety that surrounds the occasional long-range trip, which BMW refers to as “extra-urban.” The company has leveraged its standard ICE business to eliminate the need to own both a gas-powered car and an EV. For individuals in this situation, instead of purchasing a separate car for long trips, BMW guarantees that any time the i3 doesn’t meet that individual’s needs, the company will loan out one of its gas-powered cars. In essence, BMW has eliminated one of the more significant costs associated with owning an EV, which is the need to own a gas car as well.

BENARI JEWELERS MAGAZINE [53 automotive innovation

BMW i8 The i8 is the sportier model. It’s what many refer to as a range extender, because it has both an electric motor and a gas engine. The car is designed to work in two modes: full electric and hybrid electric-gasoline. In electric mode, only the electric motor is engaged. This ensures zero-emissions operation and the highest possible efficiency. The car can manage about 22 miles on a single charge in electric-only mode, making it useful for short urban trips. In hybrid mode, both the electric motor and a small gas engine work together to enhance performance and extend range. The hybrid drive not only extends the range of the car, but it allows it to be more efficient than a vehicle with a single large gasoline engine. By leveraging the torque of the electric motor and the power-gen- erating capabilities of the gas engine, BMW is able to provide high levels of performance with very low fuel consumption. In hybrid mode, the i8 has a range similar to any gas vehicle.

54] BENARI JEWELERS MAGAZINE The i Concept It isn’t the cars that make the BMW i concept revolutionary so much as space without an increase in the overall footprint of the car. This means it is the attention the company is giving to all aspects of the EV economy. more energy goes into actually moving passengers rather into moving BMW’s focus on a holistic electric economy is reminiscent of its focus on the components of the car. hydrogen economy of few years ago. While that approach hit technological The second accomplishment realized by BMW’s approach is that of hurdles, it didn’t dissuade BMW from the merits of focusing an an entire maximum modularity. Moving forward, this will allow the company to industry rather than a small subsection of it. BMW has made it a goal to perfect drive components separate from interior components, speeding up promote customer convenience just as much as the environment with its both the design and testing phases of production. The result is decreased new i series. The result is a concept that takes a lot of the pain out of production costs and thus decreased vehicle costs. switching to an electric transportation infrastructure. Part of BMW’s plan Finally, BMW’s approach reduces weight, allows for maximum insulation was described above in regards to its gas loaner program for extra-urban against road noise, and provides for enhanced safety features. The company trips, but the company has gone further than that. claims that the i3 will offer the first completely silent driving experience as a result of modular construction. Carbon Fiber The i cars are the only series-produced passenger vehicles made of carbon fiber. Carbon is 30% lighter than aluminum of the same strength, which makes it ideal for weight-critical applications. In fact, the weight savings from using carbon fiber for the i series are large enough to offset the additional weight of the lithium-ion batteries. This breakthrough is the result of a decade of research at BMW into how to automate the production of carbon fiber components. BMW has gone so far as to locate the factory that produces the carbon fiber in an area where hydroelectric power will provide 100% of the plant’s energy needs. This helps to offset the massive energy requirements of the carbon fiber production process.

LifeDrive LifeDrive is the term BMW is giving to its approach to EV manufacturing. The philosophy breaks car design into two parts. There is the passenger module and the drive module. The drive module is made up of the battery, The Bottom Line suspension, and drive components, while the passenger module contains The modular concept is likely to become the standard for vehicle the user interface, climate control, etc. By separating design and production manufacturing in the future. In fact, it may even allow for a refueling along these lines, BMW has accomplished several things. option in which the passenger module is simply transferred to a fresh drive First, it has increased space in the passenger area of small vehicles. module. Whatever the outcome, BMW is using its considerable position in They can now offer as much room as some larger vehicles because drive the automotive industry to push not just a new technology, but a new way components don’t intrude into passenger space. The result is increased of thinking about personal transport.

BENARI JEWELERS MAGAZINE [55 by NANCY OLSON designer spotlight

BALL the watch that rocks

back in black The Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon Black — ideal for extreme sports or less rigorous pursuits — is appropriately free of superfluous detail, relying on the intensity of the monochromatic palette and luminescent numerals and hands to define its character. It was created with famed rock climber Alex Honnold in mind, and its impressive profile is heightened by the drama of its all-black design. Honnold, a native Californian, is the world record holder in free solo climbing. He started climbing at the age of 11, and since the age of 19, has devoted most of his waking hours to the sport. His precision and sense of daring make him the perfect new addition to the Ball Explorers Club as brand ambassador, and the Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon Black timepiece The Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon Black relies on the intensity of the monochromatic palette and luminescent numerals is in turn the consummate companion for his ascents, with its rugged ap- and hands to define its character. pearance, sturdy reliability and unqualified accuracy.

56] BENARI JEWELERS MAGAZINE Benari_Stormchaser Pro_FULL_932014.pdf 1 9/3/2014 8:34:37 AM

An area that has been devastated by killer tornado is as if ‘‘an atomic bomb’’ has gone off. Dr. Wurman often drives directly into tornadoes intercepting them at night. With limited visibility, he is accompanied by a watch that lights up the darkness of nights. Each mission can be both risky and dangerous. That’s why a dependable timepiece like Ball Watch is so important in an environment that features truly adverse conditions.

The watch that once ran America’s railroads now helps the world’s explorers keep time. There is no other timepiece that is as rugged and dependable.

CM “Let there be light.” Dr. Josh Wurman MY - Meteorologist and Creator of the Doppler Radar on Wheels

CY Chronograph CMY with accumulated

K measurement up to 12 hours

Telemeter Self-powered micro gas lights on hands and dial that glow for up to 25 years

Aluminium top bezel 100m water resistance

5,000Gs shock resistance

Sapphire crystal case back

Fireman Storm Chaser Pro Automatic - 42mm built to last The Engineer Hydrocarbon Black is equipped with the

patented SpringLOCK® system exclusively developed by Ball Watch. The device guarantees the movement’s accuracy by providing the balance spring with a real “cage” to absorb the energy of external shocks to the watch. Such shocks can cause a standard mechanical movement to lose

or gain up to 60 seconds per day. But the SpringLOCK® system reduces impact by up to 66%, thereby safeguarding the accuracy of the COSC-certified automatic ETA 2892- A2 movement that powers the piece. The first model in the Ball collection to use a DLC (Dia- mond-Like Carbon) coating on its titanium case, the 42mm

Engineer Hydrocarbon Black enjoys exceptional scratch re- The green color of the micro-tubes on the dial and the yellow hue on sistance and increased durability. The patented crown pro- the hands enhance readability tection, common to all models in the Engineer Hydrocarbon under all conditions. collection, protects the movement — to which the crown is directly connected — from the elements. The construction of the watch also ensures protection against magnetic fields up to 4,800 A/m and impacts of up to 5,000 Gs, and it also offers water resistance up to 300 meters. A black rubber strap further enhances the watch’s durability.

light up the night In addition to the basic time display on the dial, the date appears in a window at three o’clock enhanced by a Cyclops magnifying lens fixed to the antireflective sapphire crystal. Micro gas tubes containing luminescent 3H gas light up the dial and hands, providing light intensity up to 100 times more effective than conventional luminous paints. The green color of the micro-tubes on the dial and the yellow hue on the hands enhance readability under all conditions.

ball delivers time and again since 1981 In addition to Honnold, the Ball Explorers Club includes such extreme sports greats as Guillaume Néry, world record holder in free diving, John Hembel, former speed skiing world champion, and Brian Binnie, who piloted the private rocket ship SpaceShipOne to an altitude of 69.6 miles above the earth. Club membership also comprises such humanitar- ians as Dr. Christopher Hillman, who travels the Himalayan Mountains providing health care to people living in remote areas and Dr. Geoff Tabin, co-founder of the Himalayan Cataract Project. The characteristic these compelling people share is a mission of excellence, founded on a desire to experience authenticity and fulfillment by exploring the world. Ball Watch, with coinciding objectives, has been providing timepieces since 1891 designed for “accuracy under adverse conditions,” whether high above the Earth, on a challenging rock wall or in the ocean’s depths.

Alex Honnold’s precision and sense of daring make him the perfect new addition to the Ball Explorers Club as brand ambassador. 58] BENARI JEWELERS MAGAZINE by DEBORAH YONICK MAN ABOUT TOWN Mixed metals, precious gems, and cuff bracelets are dominating men’s jewelry

Dog tag from the Meteorite John Hardy Extra Large Station collection by David Yurman. Bracelet on Braded Cord.

Men stepped out of the recession with bag on hip and bracelet on wrist, proclaimed The New York Times in 2012, and since then, accessories have become even more important to the modern man, as his perception of fashion continues to grow.

“The recession has taught men that looking fashionable can be a key component to getting and keeping a job,” says jewelry stylist and TV host, Michael O’Connor. “Accessories give men more opportunities to make a personal statement on traditional fashion. Men are feeling more confident about experimenting, realizing they have more options available to them than ever.” Smart designers and otherwise iconic female brands caught the news early that men’s jewelry was on the rise and have been building on the category recently. O’Connor recognizes artists like Stephen Webster, John Hardy, and David Yurman as pioneers. John Hardy Large Station Bracelet on Braided Cord. When it comes to fashion accessories, expressing individual style for a reason- able price is now more possible than ever. Designers today are using a broad range of materials including alternative metals, leathers, and exotic stones.

William Henry Classis Square John Hardy Classic Chain Blue Coral Cufflinks. Collection Large Beaded Bracelet.

BENARI JEWELERS MAGAZINE [59 accessories for him

Embracing Bracelets Bracelets are probably the most popular choice in men’s William Henry Studio hand-carved Cocobolo wood pocket knife. jewelry next to the wristwatch. Favorite styles mix materials like precious and alternative metals with woven leather and rubber, multi-colored sail cord, gem, or exotic wood inlay, and diamond details. Bead bracelets are very popular from designers like Yur- man, Hardy, and Webster, mixing detailed silver clasps with gems such as carnelian, lapis, and black onyx. Moreover, cuff styles with interesting patterns and new takes on the ID bracelet with gem inlay are trending. In rings, right hand fashion bands are strong in mixed metals with diamond accents (black and cognac are favorites) or inlaid with other materials like enamel or wood. The signet ring remains a favorite style, not only in classic monogrammed gold designs, but also showcasing gem centers (carved, cabochon, inlay, pavé) and mixing metals (i.e. titanium and yellow or black gold). In cuff links, designs range from traditional classics to whimsical, lifestyle imagery like mermaids, dragons, lions, eagles, and skulls. In necklaces, new takes on dog tags are especially popular. Designers

William Henry Studio exotic William Henry Studio fossil are working tag pendants in much the same way they are bringing new wood writing instrument. dinosaur bone cufflinks. takes to the basic signet ring, with interesting gem centers, unique engraved patterns, and mixed metals, colors, and textures.

Official Licensed Star Wars Darth Vadar cufflinks.

William Henry Damascus Inlay money clip.

William Henry Classic Round Mokume Sterling Silver cufflinks. 60] BENARI JEWELERS MAGAZINE designer spotlight

THE MODERN MUSEUM DIAL

A premier Swiss watch brand renowned for its modern design aesthetic and close association with the arts, Movado has earned more than 100 patents and 200 international awards for artistry and innovation in watch design and time tech- Anology since its founding in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, in 1881. The watch dial defined by a solitary dot at 12 o’clock, symbolizing the sun at high noon was conceived by Bauhaus influenced artist Nathan George Horwitt in 1947. When his dial was selected by the Museum of Modern Art, New York, for its permanent design collection in 1960, it became the first watch dial awarded this distinction. The name Museum Watch derives from this recognition. Today regarded as an icon of Modernism, this celebrated dial continues to distinguish a wide array of fine Movado watch designs. Yet an icon never stands still. Movado, being true to its name which means “always in motion” in the international language of Esperanto, continues to explore the modern design aesthetic of its iconic Museum dial in exciting and original ways. New expressions include the women’s Concerto, with its elegant white mother-of-pearl Museum dial detailed by a discreet cabochon minute track…and the modern three-hand Museum Sport strap watch showcased here. Defined by the signature concave dot at 12 o’clock, the Museum Sport watch’s minimally detailed black dial is given new dimension by a black minute reflector ring. The hour and minute hands, still classically dauphine-shaped, now feature luminescent treatment. A thin, silver-toned seconds hand and small round black date aperture at 6 o’clock complete the subtle new sportive detailing. The simple, round, water-resistant case, striking in matte black PVD finished stainless steel, is complemented by a black PVD finished bracelet — Swiss quartz movement and scratch-resistant sapphire crystal.

BENARI JEWELERS MAGAZINE [61 artistic accessories Classic Lines Although some believe that the art of penmanship is in modern engineering, try a William Henry Studio fountain decline, there has never been a better time to buy a fountain pen. It features a barrel in Xylay wood, and a light structure pen. As the current enthusiasm for Moleskine notebooks, in aerospace grade titanium and aluminum. The German- stylish handwritten notes, and hipster PDAs shows, there made nib is in 18K gold, the accents on the ebonite cap are are still many people out there who value the experience of in Mokume Gane and the hand-forged damascus pocket clip writing by hand. Fountain pens are currently experiencing is set with citrine. This beautiful writing instrument also a resurgence in popularity, especially among collectors and features William Henry’s patent-pending Wavelock™ cap young people. Fountain pens also make excellent gifts, and closure system – a ring of chromium steel balls embedded in with today’s advanced designs, they epitomize the marriage a titanium ring which are captured in wave-shaped grooves of functionality and artistry. in titanium collars for closed and post positions.

FUNCTIONAL ART MORE CONVENIENT THAN YOU THINK If you decide to give a fountain pen as a gift, you can be Today, even inexpensive fountain pens are safe for flight sure that it will be among the most elegant things on the travel, and some daring fountain pen users even choose to recipient’s desk. Many fountain pen manufacturers, such use theirs mid-flight! Although fountain pens were once as Porsche and William Henry Studio, design their pens to notorious for being leaky, inconvenient, and awkward to look as if they belong in a display case, even if they spend refill, these problems have been resolved. Modern refillable their time beside a calendar or in the center crease of a fountain pen converters are extremely easy to refill and notebook. In fact, many pen collectors display their pens as have large leak-proof ink reservoirs. For those seeking even if they are works of art. Your gift may herald the beginning more convenience, large ink-refill cartridges are available in of a lifelong hobby. a wide choice of ink colors and textures — with far more Porsche pens are beautiful and streamlined in the hand options than are available to ballpoint pen users, including and on the desk. They are sleek and well-designed, with waterproof permanent ink, lubricated ink, highlighting ink, a pleasing shape and feel. Porsche’s Tec Flex Pen is made and scented ink. entirely of stainless steel or is interwoven with gold threads. All other metal parts feature high-quality silver plating and A CLASSIC GIFT a palladium finish. The design is understated compared to Fountain pen users have a large and vocal online presence, some fountain pens and offers the owner a magnificent piece with many online message boards and websites devoted that doesn’t call unnecessary attention to itself. to fountain pen collecting and daily fountain pen use. The If you are planning on giving a fountain pen as a gift and reason is simple: there is really no more comfortable and you want it to be a classic piece of functional art infused with immersive way to write by hand. There is no special skill set involved, and many fountain pen users have found that their penmanship improved after they made the switch. Using a fountain pen is an effortless, tactile, extremely comfortable experience. A fountain pen is therefore a gift that is extremely well-suited to those in professions where a person is called upon to write a great deal or sign many documents —

Porche two-tone TecFlex writers, doctors, lawyers, students, and other office workers, weaved writing instrument. for example. Because fountain pens have an old-fashioned style and sense of elegance, they are also excellent gifts for those approaching important milestones, such as graduation, a fiftieth or twenty-first birthday, an important promotion, or retirement. They also make a great gift for a groomsman, minister, or father of the bride or groom.

William Henry Studio Rollerball writing instrument.

62] BENARI JEWELERS MAGAZINE

by HEDDA SCHUPAK wedding planner

the engagement ring

Rings to symbolize betrothal and marriage have been around almost as long as the concept of marriage itself. The next time some curmudgeon tells you it’s just an invention of some ad agency (more on that later), tell him it’s just not so.

The tradition of a diamond engagement ring dates back to 1477, or titanium band for sports or active use is as relevant today as it Rwhen Archduke Maximilian of Austria presented one to Mary of was more than 2,000 years ago. Burgundy upon their betrothal. But that’s just the firstdiamond en- In 860 AD, Pope Nicholas I wrote a letter describing some gagement ring. There is ample evidence of betrothal and marriage differences between the Roman Catholic and Eastern Orthodox rings used by the ancient Egyptians, Greeks, and Romans. Indeed, traditions: one of those was that in the Western church, a man the Romans were the ones who introduced gold for betrothal rings. presents his betrothed with an engagement ring. A Roman bride-to-be was presented with two engagement During the Renaissance, two major events shaped the evolution rings: a gold ring to wear in public, and an iron one to wear around of modern bridal rings: one, the diamond ring given to Mary of the house while doing chores. Common practice for several cen- Burgundy sparked a trend among the elite social classes to give a turies, this is one idea whose time has come back. Iron, not so diamond ring for engagement, and two, the Protestant Reformation much, but having a diamond wedding band for dressy occasions, that eschewed religious grandeur also drove the wedding ring to a plain gold or platinum band for everyday, and a tough tungsten replace the betrothal ring as the primary symbol of marriage.

64] BENARI JEWELERS MAGAZINE

wedding planner

In early North America, the Puritans, Quakers, and other religious stark and modern. groups who shunned ornamentation or jewelry gave a thimble in lieu of Not surpris- a wedding ring, although historians believe some women cut the tops off ingly, the their thimbles to wear as rings. (As an aside, the Protestant Reformation popularity also launched the Swiss watch industry. With the rise of Calvinism and of diamond its doctrine of simplicity, jewelers who saw their livelihood slipping away engage- turned to horology. Watches and clocks, like thimbles, were deemed ac- ment rings ceptable because of their usefulness, unlike jewelry, which was consid- declined ered purely ornamental.) during the During the Victorian era, a huge diamond discovery in South Africa in Great De- I1867 made diamond jewelry accessible to more people. Queen Victoria’s pression, but marriage to Albert was a true love match, rare in an era when royal mar- after World War II, riages were usually made for political or economic, not romantic, reasons. Americans were poised While diamond engagement rings were still largely considered the domain for consumption after more of the nobility, their reach was extending down to the more affluent of than 15 years of hardship. Returning GIs flocked to newly built suburbs, the masses. In honor of the love between Victoria and Albert, popular filled their new houses with shiny new appliances and their garages with design trends were romantic motifs like hearts, bows, or even snakes, seen shiny new automobiles. as a symbol of eternity. It was during this time that De Beers, through its marketing agency It was during this era that the famed “Tiffany Setting,” a solitary dia- N.W. Ayer, created the greatest marketing slogan of all time: “A Dia- mond held in place by six prongs, was introduced, although it would not mond Is Forever.” It didn’t invent the diamond engagement ring, but it become the norm for some time yet. would cement the idea that a diamond ring was essential to being The Industrial Revolution next ushered in greater truly and properly engaged. prosperity and a growing middle class, putting fine jewelry within reach of even more people. By the The presence of a diamond in an Edwardian era of the early 1900s, engagement engagement ring rocketed from rings had become a widely accepted custom. Edwardian design featured diamonds in lacy, 10% just before WWII to more ornate platinum settings. The geometric than 80% at the end of the styles of the Art Deco era that followed, 20th century. meanwhile, reflected a love of all things

the engagement ring

66] BENARI JEWELERS MAGAZINE Christopher Designs Crisscut

holiday_magazine.indd 1 10/15/2014 12:26:25 PM by HEDDA SCHUPAK wedding planner ringing in the trends

Modern Designs In the latter half of the 20th century, the Tiffany-style solitaire setting became the standard for American engagement rings, and has remained so until recently. It is still hugely popular, but more and more women are entranced with vintage-style milgrain work, halo settings, cushion cut diamonds, and micro-pavé (oddly enough, this vintage-inspired trend was made possible only with the very modern development of CAD-CAM technology).

The round brilliant still remains the number- one diamond shape, but more and more brides are choosing cushion, Asscher, oval, princess, Mradiant, and other special cuts.

Today the engagement ring that most couples want to buy is the one that best reflects their personal, unique style. Personal- ization and customization are common — indeed, almost standard. Some couples still abide by the more traditional method of having the groom select a ring and present it to the bride, but more often, the couple chooses it together.

68] BENARI JEWELERS MAGAZINE wedding planner

Halos, Clusters, Celebrities, & Colors The halo setting (a center stone surrounded by a “halo” of smaller supplanted the princess as number two. The cut dates back 200 stones) is the biggest thing to hit engagement ring design since the years and was once considered the cut of royalty. Today’s versions, Tiffany setting. The halo adds visual interest to a single stone, while however, use modern cutting technology to imbue this vintage incidentally making it look way bigger. It’s a win-win all around. style with renewed sparkle. So what’s next? Well, there’s a double halo, or even a triple, but Other trending styles include floral designs, east-west settings, where to go from there? Some fashion soothsayers predict the next colored gemstone centers, mixed metals, and twisted bands. In big thing may be a diamond cluster ring. Cluster styles are a great an east-west setting, an elongated stone such as an oval, radiant option for the bride that wants a big look but has a tight budget, cut, or marquise is set sideways across the finger, as opposed to says Amanda Gizzi, director of the Jewelry Information Center in the traditional north-south direction up and down the finger. This New York. The diamond cluster ring has the same advantage as a modern setting has reignited the popularity of cuts like pears and halo in making a big statement for less money — sometimes far less marquise, which largely fell out of favor in the 1990s. — than a single stone would cost for comparable size and quality. Color is a huge trend. Color has been big in fashion, and the ap- But rather than the halo’s combination of a center stone surrounded peal crosses over into jewelry. First, there’s the Kate Effect: Kate by many tiny diamonds, the cluster uses Middleton (aka the Duchess of Cambridge) wears the sapphire multiple diamonds of the same engagement ring belonging to the late Princess Diana, Prince Wil- size artfully arranged in liam’s mother, which has driven acceptance of not only sapphires such a way as to give but also other colored gemstones as a center stone. According to off maximum spar- Gizzi of the Jewelry Information Center, the newest way to wear kle. For example, color is in the reverse: colored gems flanking the center diamond. Real Housewives Fancy color diamonds and mixed metals are also trending. of Atlanta star Whether platinum and yellow gold, pink and white gold, or Kandi Burress’s even blackened metals for the hipster bride, mixing metals adds engagement ring, a personal touch to the standard engagement ring. According to from the Karina Severine Ferrari, editor-in-chief of YourEngagement101.com, collection by Gregg “Yellow gold has made a big comeback, as well as fancy yellow Ruth, looks like a two- diamond centers. Rose gold and pink accents are very strong, too.” carat oval, but it’s actually a cluster of smaller diamonds set in the shape of an oval. Speaking of Burress, celebrity engagements are one of the biggest influences on engagement ring trends. While engagement ring designs do mirror general jewelry style trends, the celebrity trend emerged big in the 1960s with the public’s fascination over Eliza- beth Taylor and her engagement ring from Richard Burton. Today, we know what a celebrity’s ring looks like almost before her groom pops the question. Recently, lots of them featured cushion cut center stones — in a halo, of course. To wit: Ten- nis star Ryan Sweeting proposed to The Big Bang Theory’s Kaley Cuoco with a 2.30ct cushion cut halo set engagement ring. Not to be outdone, Tim Witherspoon popped the question to former Destiny’s Child singer Kelly Rowland with a 4ct cushion cut in a halo setting and pavé band. Then rapper Big Sean presented Glee star Naya Rivera with a 4-5ct cushion cut in a platinum halo setting with pavé band. The cushion cut — so named for its softly rounded corners that resemble a pillow — is the third most popular style after round and princess (square). Some diamond dealers even say it has

70] BENARI JEWELERS MAGAZINE www.henridaussi.com | twitter.com/henri_daussi | facebook.com/henridaussi by HEDDA SCHUPAK wedding planner

don’t forget the band Wedding band trends

For many couples, the rush of excitement about getting engaged quickly morphs into the hectic details of planning a wedding. So much so that the most lasting symbol of the marriage — the wedding band — is left as an af- terthought. But wedding bands, too, have their design trends. There is always the classic plain gold or platinum band, but more and more couples view the wedding ring as a style statement as well as an outward sign of their commitment, especially women who don’t wear their engagement rings. Amanda Gizzi of the Jewlery Information Center points to split-shank bands as a popular trend. This is a style that allows the engagement ring to fit Din the middle, but it can be worn alone, which looks like an open, airy design. Severine Ferrari says the leading trends for wedding rings are intricate designs for the woman’s band, and black diamonds and texture for the men’s band. Alternative metals such as tungsten and titanium are also popular for men’s bands, because of their modern high-tech appeal and their relative indestruc- tibility. But again, remember those Romans: no reason a guy can’t also have two wedding bands: his gold or platinum ring for the ceremony and to wear for dress, and the second contemporary metal band to wear for sports. And, of course, multiple bands give women fashion options. “Stacking bands let women achieve a balanced aesthetic. One band on top of the engagement ring balances the ring on the bottom,” says Gizzi. “Some women continue to stack on bands after the ‘I do.’”

72] BENARI JEWELERS MAGAZINE

It’s the little things he says and does that make me fall in love with him . all over again, every day

Live for the Moments Visit ArtCarvedBridal.com to find your dream ring! Go to our Facebook page to watch Meg and Dane’s Live for the Moments video series and see how they share their love and life stories.

Pictured rings: Liana, Kristen

www.artcarvedbridal.com

Bridal jewelry doesn’t end with the engagement ring or wedding ring. There’s a wedding gown that needs the right accessories, and what better choice than something the bride (and her attendants) can really wear again?

Wedding dress styles range from ornate to simple, but Amanda Gizzi, director of the Jewelry Information Center, says texture is a top trend. Lace or bejeweled embellishments on the bodice of the dress make earrings a wonderful way to pull the look together. We suggest diamond or pearl as classic choices, and of course blue gemstones such as sapphire, aquamarine or blue topaz continue to be a favorite for brides to incorporate her “something blue.” Hair jewels such as brooches or hairpins are also of the moment. Fashion-forward Tbrides are also drawn to hand ornaments such as bracelet rings (a ring and bracelet connected by a chain), says Gizzi. Wedding day jewelry is a beautiful gift idea for the groom to give his bride, or, as Kate Middleton’s parents did for her, the bride’s parents to give their daughter. Long after the dress is boxed up and put away and the video is on the shelf, the jewelry is something she can wear over and over and always remember that special day.

74] BENARI JEWELERS MAGAZINE TRUE FASHION IS TIMELESS Introducing the new Aerial Collection. Now available at heartsonfire.com. OYSTER PERPETUAL GMT-MASTER II

rolex oyster perpetual and gmt-master ii are trademarks.