The Inside: What the WealthyPg. Buy 26 SWANK’S SAKS RECORD/3 U.S. PUSH FOR MANGO/14 WWD WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’THURSDAY Daily Newspaper • September 14, 2006 • $2.00 List Sportswear Can This Dream Be Saved? NEW YORK — Does fashion still have room for unbridled fl ights of fancy? Let’s hope so, despite all evidence to the contrary. On Tuesday, sisters Kate and Laura Mulleavy wowed their Rodarte audience with a dazzling display of romantic grandeur and meticulous craft. They swathed their models in chiffon, taffeta and a bower of pink rosettes, each one crafted meticulously by hand — at their Pasadena kitchen table. Whether the Mulleavys will ultimately be able to translate their vision into a commercially viable business — and whether the industry as a whole gets serious about developing a substantial support system to help gifted aspirants — remains to be seen. For more on the shows, see pages 6 to 11.

Macy’s Parade Begins: Retailer Goes National But With a Local Touch By David Moin all the conversion of 400 May stores Cto Macy’s daring or risky. But don’t call it the homogenization of malls. It makes Terry Lundgren bristle. “This is not a cookie-cutter deal,” said Lundgren, the chairman, chief executive and president of Federated Department Stores, which orchestrated the nameplate change on Saturday following Federated’s $17 billion acquisition of May last year. “We have tailored the assortments to the individual locations.” Though there are now two Macy’s in 160 or so malls, they are not twins. They See Macy’s, Page 22 PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO PHOTO BY WWD.COM WWDTHURSDAY Sportswear FASHION ™ Rodarte showed some serious talent, Michael Kors danced with luxe 6 sportswear and Narciso Rodriguez pushed the outer (space) limits. A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated GENERAL Call the conversion of 400 May stores to Macy’s daring or risky, but say 1 it’s the homogenization of malls and Terry Lundgren will bristle. RULING CLASS Retailers and press attending Milan Fashion Week will have a new show Today’s Fashion Ascribes to the Rule of Self-Expression 3 location to check out and see more designers holding two shows. Benetton’s net profi t and sales grew in the fi rst half, but higher costs What to wear: White after Labor Day? More When it comes to the issue of denim and the 4 sliced margins as the fi rm executed an incentive scheme for franchisees. office, jeans certainly have a place, asserts designer than one pattern at a time? Mixed brands? A Bulgari posted a large jump in fi rst-half profi ts, thanks to higher prices, handbag that doesn’t match one’s shoes? Jeans Christopher Enuke, founder of premium denim lower costs and a more effi cient production and distribution process. in the office? Multiple shirts and bottoms at the line Oligo Tissew. “Denim is very important 4 same time? Are these fashion no-no’s or a whole to the workplace; it’s a very practical garment. Mango, the $1.4 billion Barcelona chain, is a Johnny-come-lately among new way of looking at dressing? When you consider that many people today 14 international retailers, but is fi nally on the move in the U.S. What once were the have to travel a distance to Treasury Secretary Henry Paulson Jr. said he would urge the Chinese prevailing rules of fashion may work and balance a family 17 toward a more fl exible currency when he visits Beijing next week. now be the exception as women life at the same time, they Chicago-based Hartmarx Corp., known for its men’s suits, has acquired everywhere embrace white as need to be able to wear a pant 17 knitwear fi rm Sweater.com as part of its expansion of women’s. sans season, wear plaids and that stands up to all that and BEAT: Layering is a key trend among teen and contemporary consumers checks together, mismatch denim does.” According to the 18 this season, and specialty retailers are primed to benefi t, analysts said. accessories, elevate denim to a Monitor, women are wearing week-long wardrobe staple and jeans nearly four days a week, DISH: DKNY Jeans has launched a Web site featuring photos of its lines, an entertainment section, a brand profi le and a link to shop at macys.com. layer tee shirts over woven tops. indicating that they are clearly 20 “Fashion is a form of putting their denim to work wearable art and it’s hard to at work. EYE find any hard and fast rules Denim is also a highly If there was any question that fashion week is all about celebrity, it was today; it’s really more about desirable garment outside of 12 fi rmly answered Wednesday night on the top fl oor of Milk Studios. individual style and that does the workplace. Seven out of not follow any rules,” says ten female respondents told Classifi ed Advertisements...... 30-31 Patricia Pao, Chief Executive the Monitor that they preferred Officer of Pao Principle, a to go places where they could To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. New York City-based retail wear jeans. Additionally, jeans [email protected], using the individual’s name. consultantcy. “Self expression “Fashion is a form of wearable art were the first pick of casual WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPY- is the most important part and it’s hard to find any hard and wear for two out of three female RIGHT ©2006 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. fast rules today; it’s really more VOLUME 192, NO. 56. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one ad- of fashion; it’s similar to an respondents. ditional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three ad- individual canvas of art.” about individual style and that does But what about when you’re ditional issues in February, April, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Perhaps the only “rule”, as it not follow any rules.” not sure if denim is right for the Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers stands, is being true to your self — Patricia Pao, occasion? Go dark, cedes Enuke, Inc.: S.I. Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President & C.E.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President and Pao Principle C.O.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice President_Chief Information Officer; when it comes to dressing today. the designer. “They will always David Orlin, Senior Vice President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice President_Real Estate; Maurie Perl, Senior “We dress to say something forgive you a darker jean.” Vice President_Chief Communications Officer. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Group: Steven T. Florio, Advance about ourselves and if you are not comfortable Women appear to agree. When asked about the Magazine Group Vice Chairman; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice President_General Manager, Shared Services Center. with a certain look, that definitely shows,” color of their next denim purchase, 39% and Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 28% percent of female respondents told the 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RT0001. Canada post return undeliverable considers Claire Dupuis, a Senior Product Trend Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS Analyst with Cotton Incorporated. “It’s a way of Monitor they would buy medium blue and dark CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, making a statement and not following a dictated blue, respectively. ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR set of rules about what, when and wear.” “I own twelve pairs of jeans and I could not DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four live without them,” Pao, the retail consultant weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. Making that individual statement obviously Subscriptions Rates: U.S. possessions, Retailer, daily one year: $109; Manufacturer, daily one year $145. All other means different things to different women. states. “I probably would not wear denim for a U.S., daily one year $205. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. When asked by the Cotton Incorporated prospective client meeting, but I would certainly First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, Lifestyle Monitor™ if wear a dark jean with a and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions they preferred to buy Chanel jacket to meet a and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make clothing that is more People Often Comment on Clothes long-term client.” Pao is our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would fashionable or higher in quick to point out that interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information by mail and/or e-mail, please advise quality, 57.3% of female Agree 79% a designer jacket is the us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. respondents opted for perfect complement to a WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANU- SCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPAR- quality and 38% opted Disagree 20% jean, as the days of head ENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, for more fashionable to toe designer dressing, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED garments. to which her mother No matter what her proclivity, today’s woman ascribed, are over. “It’s verboten to exclusively is dressing for herself, but she is well aware that wear one designer today, and it’s important to the right – and especially the wrong – attire can mix things up.” In Brief get her noticed. When asked by the Monitor if Mixing and matching – or not matching – is people often commented on clothing, nearly another exception to the old rule. “Today, we can ● HANESBRANDS CUTS: Following its launch Sept. 6 on the eight in ten female respondents said yes. wear two patterns at the same time, if done the New York Stock Exchange, $4.5 billion Hanesbrands Inc., the “There is a very different environment out right way and in complementary palettes,” allows spin-off of Sara Lee Corp., said Wednesday it would cut nearly there today versus twenty years ago, and the Dupuis, the trend forecaster. When it comes 2,200 jobs and close three plants in North America. The clos- world is a lot more casual, but that is not to to color, she also adds that white is here to stay. ings are to begin in November at Lumberton, N.C. A factory in be confused with an excuse to dress sloppily,” “The rule about no white after Labor Day is gone; Monclova, Mexico, will close in December. A plant in Marion, S.C., that makes sheer hosiery will be shut in February and considers Jeannine McShane, a Florida-based white is a year-round palette in shades from crisp those operations will be moved to an existing Clarksville, Ark., human resources consultant who has seen her white to winter white. Just make it your own.” factory. The maker of bras, underwear, T-shirts, socks and share of fashion mistakes in the workplace. As the experts insist, following a rule of true fl eece sweatshirts and pants said the cutbacks will result in “How you dress can say a lot about you and your individual style should put you in a class by your a $27 million charge in the fi scal fi rst half that ends Dec. 30. approach to your job and other facets of life.” self. The company, with a brand portfolio that includes the Hanes, When asked about the old adage of dressing This story is one in a series of articles based on find- Champion, Playtex, Bali and L’eggs names, employs 50,000 workers in 22 countries. Eighty percent of them work in Mexico, not only for the job you have, but for the job or ings from Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle Monitor™ promotion you want, McShane was conflicted. tracking research. Appearing Thursdays in these the Caribbean Basin and the Dominican Republic. “I think it’s important to dress smart, but pages, each story will focus on a specific topic as it ● NEW BALANCE STORE: Boston-based New Balance Athletic overdoing it can hurt you also. You don’t want relates to the American consumer and her attitudes Shoe Inc. is opening its fi rst retail store in Massachusetts on to appear completely out of step with your co- and behavior regarding clothing, Friday. The 3,050-square-foot New Balance Burlington store workers and run the risk of appearing a little too appearance, fashion, fiber selection and will specialize exclusively in athletic footwear, apparel and ac- old school.” many other timely, relevant subjects. cessories. Store owner Bob Minihane served as New Balance head sales agency representative for New York, New Jersey and Pennsylvania for more than 30 years. WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 14, 2006 3 WWD.COM Fashion Week in Milan: Swank Sets Sales Record at Saks By Julie Naughton and Pete Born Hilary Swank NEW YORK — Two-time Academy Award winner A Changing Landscape Hilary Swank hardly could be accused of being a slouch. She appeared on the selling fl oor at Saks Fifth By Luisa Zargani Avenue’s fl agship Wednesday afternoon a mere 12 hours after wrapping her latest fi lm, “The Reaping,” MILAN — Retailers and press attending Milan Fashion and promptly set a Saks Fifth Avenue sales record, STEVE EICHNER PHOTO BY Week will have to get used to a new show location this signing bottles of the new Guerlain women’s scent, season, as well as more designers than ever holding two Insolence, for which she is a spokeswoman. shows. While Saks and LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis After 25 years at the city fairgrounds, the eight-day Vuitton executives declined to give fi gures, industry Milan Fashion Week will move to the new Fashion Milano sources estimated that Saks sold more than $30,000 Center on Via Gattamelata, a location that comprises the worth of Insolence in the hour Swank was signing, Sala Montenapoleone and Sala Manzoni (not to be con- and that total Guerlain sales at the Manhattan fl ag- fused with the streets of the same names on the other ship for the day spiked to an estimated $50,000. side of Milan) as well as the Sala Spiga and Borgospesso, Afterward, the Donna Karan-clad star discussed which seat from 450 to 1,200 guests. There also will be her decision to sign a three-year contract with the three satellite marquees, called Sala Senato, Sala San Guerlain brand, the three fi lm projects she has com- Babila and, for the fi rst time in the history of Milan’s pleted in the last 10 months and dream projects. fashion shows, an historical sports location, the Vigorelli “Guerlain has been around for a long time, and it has Velodrome, which will seat around 1,500 people. a lot of history and a lot of class,” Swank said. “It was Mario Boselli, head of the Italian Chamber of an honor to be asked.” She didn’t appear concerned Fashion, said he was pleased with the fact that more about any possible stigma of doing commercial work: than 50 percent of the brands will be showing at Fashion “I think the business is always evolving and chang- Milano Center. The chamber of fashion said Milan ing, and we evolve and change with it,” she said. “I Fashion Week this season will total 221 collections, look around and see people who I admire and who which include 99 shows for 98 brands, 84 presentations inspire me doing campaigns all the time, and I think and 39 presentations by appointment. your image is part of your career because [the career Although the offi cial calendar runs Sept. 23 to 30, itself] is commerce.” brands with less international presence are scheduled Swank relies on her gut when it comes to roles, in for Sept. 23 and 24. Blumarine’s younger line, Blugirl, acting and commercially. “My feeling is, if you have will kick off the thickest part of the calendar on Sept. 25 something you believe in, that at 11:15 a.m., followed by Salvatore Ferragamo, C’N’C you feel you can get behind, then Richard LaGravenese, who also Costume National, D&G and two shows by Giorgio absolutely. I don’t think you do directed “Freedom Writers.” Armani in the afternoon, at 3 p.m. and 4 p.m. anything for the commerce, ever. Swank’s open-mindedness After Armani, Burberry Prorsum, Maurizio Pecoraro, It’s certainly never been my road BEAUTY BEAT appeals to Pamela Baxter, presi- Pringle and Belstaff will show that day. Prada, Gucci, Jil in life. I’ve never done anything dent and chief executive offi cer Sander, Gianfranco Ferré and, for the fi rst time, Marni, all for any other reason except that I see how it fi ts into of the Perfumes and Cosmetics Group North America my idea of shaping my career, or that I love it or that at LVMH. “When you’re trying to fi nd a spokesperson it scares me, or it inspires me, or any of the above. for a brand, you have to make sure that the celebrity We’re back to having a It’s kind of my motto, and how I choose my jobs. The matches the brand,” said Baxter. “Hilary chooses “ thing with me is, when I choose to do something, I roles that are audacious and out there, and that’s reasonable calendar, spread over really commit and I’m there 100 percent. So I’m not what this brand is about.” going to say yes unless I really want to show up.” eight days, in order to give all Speaking of showing up, Swank also was scheduled to host a screening of one of her latest fi lm projects, P&G Picks Professional Care President designers a chance to show. “The Black Dahlia,” in SoHo Wednesday night. Swank ” plays a femme fatale in the fi lm, which chronicles the THE PRESIDENT OF PROCTER & GAMBLE’S unsolved Forties murder of Elizabeth Short. “It’s a Professional Care business, Carsten Fischer, is re- — Mario Boselli, Italian Chamber of Fashion supporting role, and it was fabulous — so much fun,” signing to pursue other interests. she said. “It was an opportunity to do something so The resignation will become effective Oct. 1. will hold two shows. Prada is set to show on Sept. 26 at 6 different than I’ve ever done. I made a choice — it’s Robert Jongstra, vice president for Hair Care in p.m. and 7 p.m.; Gucci, the following day at 5 p.m. and 6 either going to work,” she said with a laugh, “or it’s Western Europe, will succeed Carsten. Jongstra p.m.; Jil Sander at 7 p.m. and 8 p.m. on Sept. 28, and Ferré really not. I like playing anything that I can really will report to Chris Delapuente, group president for on Sept. 29 at 12:30 p.m. and 2:30 p.m. sink my teeth into, one way or another.” P&G’s professional and retail hair care business. He On Sept. 29, Versace will hold one show at 5:30 p.m. at Her dream projects? Swank thinks more in terms will continue to be based in Geneva. its new Teatro Alcione location, a former theater recently of people: “Meryl Streep. It would be great to work For the last six years, Jongstra has led P&G’s West- purchased and restored by the Italian fashion house. The with [Martin] Scorsese, Ang Lee, Ewan McGregor, ern Europe’s hair care business as well as its global space, which seats about 1,000 people, will be unveiled to Sean Penn — there’s a list of people that I’d like to Head & Shoulders franchise. He is credited with being the press on Monday. Dolce & Gabbana will show on Sept. work with.” a strong innovator who has developed many “new ca- 28 at 2 p.m. in its Viale Piave theater. Two more Swank projects will be released next pabilities that are widely used throughout our compa- Off the offi cial calendar, Marni will hold a 9 a.m. show year: “The Reaping,” a thriller in which Swank plays ny,” according to a company spokesman. for buyers and a 10 a.m. show for the press on Sept. 26, a former missionary, is scheduled for an April release, In the mid-Nineties, Jongstra led P&G’s beauty and and Alessandro Dell’Acqua will show the following day and she is playing the title role in “Freedom Writers,” health business in France, and in the late Nineties, at 10:30 a.m. Philosophy by Alberta Ferretti will coin- a biopic about inner-city teacher Erin Gruwell and he oversaw the company’s fi ne fragrances unit for the cide with Cividini at 6:30 p.m. on Sept. 29. her students, which is expected in January. “I’ve been Western Hemisphere. He also supervised the integra- Missoni, Byblos and Roberto Cavalli will start to wrap busy,” Swank said with a laugh. “In fact, after I leave tion of the Giorgio Beverly Hills acquisition in North up the week on Sept. 30, followed by shows by three here, I’m going to go rehearse for my next movie, ‘P.S. America and the Iams acquisition in Western Europe. Russian designers. I Love You’ [based on the Cecilia Ahern novel].” The Jongstra is Dutch and is fl uent in German. Among new brands, Ab Soul, Miss Bikini, Pin Up fi lm, scheduled for a 2008 release, is being directed by — Andrea Nagel Stars, Shirt Passion and Sonia Fortuna will show in Milan for the fi rst time. Also a fi rst, the chamber will hold the runway shows at FMC every 45 minutes and has reserved central morning slots for those brands that have more international visibility. Gaultier Promotes Caillaud to President “We’re back to having a reasonable calendar, spread over eight days, in order to give all designers a chance to By Miles Socha Christophe The executive assumes the show,” said Boselli, noting once again how the fi ve-day cal- Caillaud helm at Gaultier as the company endar in September last year was “disastrous” for retail- PARIS — Christophe Caillaud, marks its 30th anniversary and ers, designers and the press alike. Boselli also presented managing director at Jean Paul enjoys strong commercial momen- show dates for 2007 and 2008. Next year, Milan Fashion Gaultier SA since 2000, has been tum, especially in the U.S., where Week will run Feb. 17 to 25 and Sept. 22 to 30. In 2008, named president of the French sales are up more than 40 percent. dates are set for Feb. 16 to 24 and Sept. 20 to 28. fashion house. Before his exit, Labaume had Other events this season include photo and art exhi- Caillaud succeeds Eric La- put into place a restructuring plan bitions. Supported and created by Canon, Milan Fashion baume, who stepped down from that helped the company — reeling Week’s main sponsor, the exhibition “The Other Side of the position last July. Caillaud, 39, from heavy investments in retail Fashion,” will feature backstage photos taken by design- had already assumed day-to-day stores, a new headquarters and its ers such as Roberto Cavalli, Dolce & Gabbana, Frida operations in the interim. money-losing couture — to reach Giannini, Anna Molinari, Donatella Versace, Christian Before joining Gaultier, Cail- breakeven last year and put it on Lacroix and Sonia Rykiel, among others. Held at Milan’s laud was a consultant with the track to profi tability this year. Palazzo Reale, the exhibition also will travel to London boutique mergers and acquisitions and has an MBA and a masters In 2005, consolidated sales at (Sept. 16 to 30) and to Paris (Sept. 21 to Oct. 14). Proceeds fi rm Aforge Finance and helped law degree. He began his career Gaultier rose 7 percent to 28.7 will be donated to the Red Cross. broker the sale of 35 percent of in 1992 as deputy fi nancial man- million euros, or $36.2 million Also, the city of Milan is said to be organizing a pre- Gaultier to Hermès in 1999. ager at the chemical fi rm LP Inc. at current exchange, according view of the Tamara de Lempicka exhibition, scheduled Caillaud is a graduate of the in the United States before re- to the annual report of Hermès to open at Palazzo Reale on Oct. 4, during fashion week. French business school ESSEC turning to his native France. International. 4 WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 14, 2006 WWD.COM An Era Ends: Winston Sells Off to Aber Benetton Net Up, By Sophia Chabbott NEW YORK — Aber Diamond Bullish on 2nd Half Corp., a Canadian diamond min- ing company, has acquired the By Amanda Kaiser remaining minority interest of iconic Fifth Avenue jeweler MILAN — Benetton SpA saw net profit and sales growth in the Harry Winston for $157 million. first half of the year, but higher costs bit into margins at the The move means that for the company as it executed an incentive scheme to benefit its fran- fi rst time in 74 years, there will chisee partners. not be a Winston family member Net profi ts for the six months ended June 30 rose 1.9 per- at the helm of the company that cent to 64 million euros, or $78.7 million. Sales for the period has a legacy of creating some advanced 6.7 percent to 898 million euros, or $1.1 billion. The of the most expensive diamond company also issued a bullish full-year outlook, upgrading its jewelry in the world. profi t and revenue targets. Aber acquired a 51 percent Dollar fi gures have been converted from the euro at average controlling stake in Winston exchange rates for the period to which they refer. for $85 million in April 2004, Luciano Benetton, the company’s chairman, said the fi rm with the option to purchase is seeing strong growth in orders, which he attributed to the the remaining shares by 2010 group’s extensive commercial network and consumers’ appre- from chairman Ronald Winston, ciation of the quality of Benetton products. founder Harry Winston’s son, “I am extremely confi dent that this tendency is only the and Fenway Partners, a New beginning and I’m expecting further growth in the future,” York-based private equity fi rm. Benetton said in a statement. After almost two decades Benetton said full-year sales are expected to grow about 8 of a sometimes acrimonious percent, up from a previous forecast for 3.6 percent growth. Full- battle, Ronald Winston bought year net profi ts are expected to come in at 6.5 percent of rev- out his brother Bruce’s half of enue, which works out to 123.9 million euros, or $157.4 million. the company in the Nineties Benetton’s fi rst-half net profi ts grew but only thanks to with Fenway Partners. Ronald a lower tax rate. Pretax profi ts slid 1.4 percent to 83 million Winston will no longer be on the euros, or $102.1 million. board and has been named hon- Benetton’s gross industrial margin dropped to 42.3 percent orary chairman. from 43.8 percent in the fi rst half of last year on rising costs, “Clearly, we had a strategy that especially of material and subcontracted work. we developed that must have been The company’s margins suffered as Benetton continued about three-and-a-half, or four with an incentive scheme aimed at rewarding its franchisees, years ago,” said Thomas O’Neill, Harry Winston’s new a spokesman clarifi ed. Last year, Benetton started selling its Aber president and chief execu- store in Osaka. goods at lower wholesale prices so that franchisees could reap tive offi cer of Harry Winston. “The higher profi t margins at their stores. business plan we put together Some industry sources ques- ited with starting the fi rm’s now- As for sales, Benetton said its new joint venture in Turkey is something that was rather ag- tioned the brand’s swift expan- thriving watch business, as well contributed 14 million euros, or $17.2 million, in revenue in the gressive. The business was below sion, when dealing with mer- as initiating its push in Asia. fi rst half of the year. Last year, Benetton inked a joint venture what it is today and we stuck with chandise that can escalate into “I think the company is given with its historic Turkish licensee, the Boyner Group, for the it because we thought its become the megamillions. Not long ago, a certain immortality beyond me development and management of Benetton brands in Turkey something substantial for our Harry Winston was a red-carpet and a destiny beyond me, and I and the immediate region. shareholders. We have more than staple for Hollywood A-listers like think it’s in good hands, I wish Benetton did not further break down sales by geographic doubled the value of the company Gwyneth Paltrow, Kate Hudson Aber continued success,” said region, but the company said that fi rst-half sales growth was in two-and-a-half years.” and Jennifer Lopez. Winston Winston, 65. “We were a family “particularly signifi cant” in Mediterranean countries, Eastern Aber estimated Winston’s suddenly seems absent from the business before and we still have Europe, China and India. total value to be at $330 million. wrists and necks of women who a lot of earmarks. Their vision Since the Aber acquisition, helped boost its brand image is to take advantage and lever- Winston has embarked on an and legacy. Red-carpet ladies age the name, and make more aggressive international retail often opt to wear Fred Leighton, stores.” expansion on a path to as many Cartier or Van Cleef & Arpels. The fi rm has slowed its pro- Bulgari Profits Soar as 45 stores. This year alone, Ronald Winston said that he duction of custom pieces, which the company opened boutiques had “mixed emotions,” about is a substantial part of its busi- in Beverly Hills, London and the deal. Winston, who took the ness, according to Winston, Osaka, Japan. The company now reins of the company in 1978 due to the rarity of high-quality 53.5% in First Half has 12 outposts. after his father’s death, is cred- stones and the time it takes to craft jewelry pieces. MILAN — Bulgari SpA posted a large jump in first-half profits “There are more [ready-to thanks to higher prices, a lower cost base and a more efficient wear] collections, but there’s a production and distribution process. limit to how many iconic impor- Net profi ts for the six months ended June 30 rose 53.5 per- tant jewelry you can make….you cent to 44.4 million euros, or $54.6 million. Sales rose 15.1 can’t put a $700,000 wreath neck- percent to 447.8 million euros, or $550.8 million, in line with lace in every store,” he said. preliminary fi gures released in July. An upbeat Bulgari also Winston said that his two- boosted its full-year forecasts, calling for 10 percent growth in year-old son, Blaise, has the con- net profi ts and sales. tractual option to be a jeweler Operating profi ts for the six months rose 36.9 percent to 52.7 for one day a year at the fi rm million euros, or $64.8 million. Investments in the retail net- to retain the company’s family work caused operating costs to spike 15.1 percent to 180.5 mil- legacy. lion euros, or $222 million. “Looking on the outside, Advertising and promotional expenses decreased 3.7 percent [Harry Winston] is one of the to 53.2 million euros, or $65.4 million, which is equal to 11.9 few luxury brands we ever cre- percent of revenue. A Bulgari spokesman said advertising and ated in America,’’ he said. “My promotional expenses for the full year are seen coming in at grandfather and father recog- 12 percent of sales. In the second half of the year, Bulgari will nized luxury. I have a most ro- absorb the costs of launching its Kate Moss television and print mantic feeling in my heart for ads for the restyling of the Bulgari Pour Femme fragrance. what we’ve created and what the Bulgari chief executive Francesco Trapani called for double- team has created.” digit growth in the full year. “I am confi dent that — in presence of a good sales perfor- mance in the year-end holiday season and in absence of ex- traordinary events — the Bulgari Group can reach in 2006 a 100% Financing growth of 10 percent at comparable exchange rates for turnover for and net profi ts,” Trapani said in a statement. Back in March, Trapani stated that full-year sales would Purchase Orders grow by 8 to 9 percent, while profi ts should advance at a similar pace in the “high single digits.” Target all size customers Elsewhere, the brand is evaluating the possibility of launching Start-ups okay a skin care line, which would complement Bulgari’s well estab- lished fragrance business. Trapani broke that news in a confer- ence call to analysts Wednesday. A Bulgari spokesman stressed CALL US TODAY that plans for a skin care collection have not been fi nalized, and Ashford Finance he specifi ed that such a product launch wouldn’t happen before late next year at the earliest. (888) 532-9036 — A.K.

6 WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 14, 2006

Michael Kors went dancing through the season in a slinky sportif spirit, while Narciso Rodriguez gave his minimalist Fluid Movements point of view a touch of sci-fi . NEW YO

Michael Kors: Even a reality Michael Kors TV star like Michael Kors can be inspired by someone else’s gig. His spring show was something of a sportif homage to “Dancing With the Stars,” full of luxe looks boasting dancerly ease. Kors reworked the classical high-stepper’s wardrobe, pairing slinky T-shirts with tailored pants and lean blazers with leggings. Naturally, he picked up on the traditional taupe-black-gray palette throughout, covering a lot of neutral ground in a show that could have used a little editing. But even for those who don’t know a shuffl e-ball-change from a pas de deux, the collection had loads of great pieces. Fluid jersey dresses trailed wide satin ribbons, while paillette- slicked minidresses delivered a little Fosse-esque pizzazz. And Kors’ fabulous knits — kimono cardigans and plush pullovers Michael Kors Michael Kors — all but stole the show. Warming up never had it so good. WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 14, 2006 7 WWD.COM

Narciso Rodriguez Rodarte

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Rodarte: This was hardly the typical young designer collection one is used to seeing in New York. Sisters Kate and Laura Mulleavy Narciso Rodriguez: Diversifi cation delivered an ethereal delight that had more than isn’t easy, especially when a designer a trace of Parisian-type drama, this time inspired starts from a minimalist point of by Gainsborough-painted muses and the Huntington view. For spring, Narciso Rodriguez Gardens’ pink camellias. Again, the magic lay in the tuned his spare aesthetic into details — their signature pinked waves fl irting across fashion’s Sci-Fi Channel, working everything, rosettes hidden in sheer belled sleeves, in a range of techno fabrics. Almost those immaculate hand-stitches. Wearability was everything had some serious secondary here, replaced by the idea of dressing for a surface interest, whether it was very big, very grand event. crinkles, high sheen or lamination. Some of the voluminous shapes gave a nod to Olivier Steamy vixen dresses and gowns Theysken’s early Rochas, and one couldn’t help draw a were detailed with decorative slivers comparison with his story: clear talent falling prey to an — or an entire breast plate — of often unsupportive system. After just four seasons, the hard plastics. As an alternative, Mulleavys are still new to the scene, but while other young others bore intricate embroideries designers try to go commercial, the sisters are moving in that mimicked corsetry. Both often the opposite direction. “We just have to be strong in what appealing, these should play well we believe,” said Laura. Commenting on one long gown with starlets and socials alike. But covered in rosettes and incorporating 20 fabrics, Laura outer-space chic has its limits. said, “Maybe one person would buy it, and that’s why we Some of Rodriguez’s attempts at wanted to do that.” They have incredible faith that their strong color just didn’t read as designs will fi nd their way to the right woman. It’s a faith expensive, and with its too-forced their buyers share, as well, it seems. Rodarte is carried geometry, his tailoring looked both by about 20 retailers, the largest of which is Bergdorf austere and tricky. Goodman. “Their fi nancial success isn’t a shoe-in,” said Linda Fargo, Bergdorf ’s women’s fashion director. “But if they can consistently amaze and awe with their vision, we’re going to try to be their partners.” Narciso Rodriguez PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO, GEORGE CHINSEE AND THOMAS IANNACCONE JOHN AQUINO, PHOTOS BY 8 WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 14, 2006

Richard Chai

Marc by Marc Jacobs: Though piling on was the order of the day at the designer’s main line, Marc by Marc Jacobs displayed a savvy paring down, a shift from fall’s brooding art student attitude. Here, latter- day fl appers, Mods and bobby-soxers avoided excess retro thanks to that ever-present touch of grunge. And though Jacobs emphasized dresses, he still provided plenty of those adorable separates for girls who think of fashion as a puzzle with pieces that can be rejiggered into countless different pictures depending upon one’s mood.

Ports 1961: For spring, creative director Tia Cibani gave polite chic a touch of exotica. And if her earthy layers and raw- edged shapes sometimes veered toward Marni land, she is well en route to refi ning a distinct, appealing alternative to all that generic pretty-girl dressing out there.

Richard Chai: “The reality is that I’m an American designer,” Richard Chai said days before his show. And clearly it’s a challenge to have your conceptual leanings (as Chai does) and wear them too, but the designer’s very pretty and fresh spring collection showed that it’s possible. Chai riffed on sporty wardrobe classics Peter ▲ such as the trench, the Som white shirt and jeans, reworking them into covetable pieces rich with artful elements — curved seams, cascading pleats and tweaked proportions — but not the sort that draw stares on the street. In short — exactly what most women look for when they shop for designer clothes.

Casual Pared down, polished up or with a touch of the avant-garde, the season’s looks were sweet, savvy Chic and perfect for downtown girls everywhere. Marc by Marc Jacobs ▲ Marchesa PHOTOS BY PAVEL ANTONOV, JOHN AQUINO, GEORGE CHINSEE, GIOVANNI GIANNONI, THOMAS IANNACCONE AND ROBERT MITRA GIANNONI, THOMAS IANNACCONE AND ROBERT GEORGE CHINSEE, GIOVANNI JOHN AQUINO, ANTONOV, PAVEL PHOTOS BY WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 14, 2006 9 WWD.COM Tse more from the shows

Araks: With a gentle, effortless nod to her lingerie origins, Araks Yeramyan showed a beautifully made collection of light layers and delicately printed cottons.

Palmer Jones: Inspired by the French court at the end of the 18th century, sisters Kathy and Lindy Jones sent out a spectacular group of looks, all with an aristocratic bent.

Peter Hidalgo: Peter Hidalgo eschewed the season’s tent silhouette in favor of more soigné looks reminiscent of Rita Hayworth but with a fresh, modern edge. Palmer Jones Converse by John Varvatos: Playing to the struggling artist, John Varvatos turned out comfy pieces with a cool, lived-in look.

Malo: Austin Powers couldn’t have made this collection any groovier, as Robert Rimondi and Tommaso Aquilano infused it with Sixties’ shapes and attitude, proving there’s more to the brand than just cashmere.

Sue Stemp: Putting a decidedly sophisticated spin on her party-girl favorites, Sue Stemp showed more wearable looks, such as a fringed crochet top with little shorts.

Nanette Lepore: Attention pinup gals, Nanette Lepore has got your number this season with pretty lace boudoir jackets, boldly patterned corset dresses and plenty of her signature embroidery.

Carlos Miele: Carlos Miele channeled Brazil, his home turf, with fl irty jeweled numbers Converse and fl oor-sweeping gowns in bright, powerful by John colors. Varvatos Chaiken: While their airy ombré tunics prettily fl oated by, Jeff Mahshie and Julie Chaiken played it too safe elsewhere with simple colors and silhouettes. NEW Zang Toi: As always, Zang Toi delivered luxurious clothes full of drama and opulence, perfect looks for opening-night festivities at YORK the Metropolitan Opera. Beckerman: Canadian sisters Caillianne, Samantha and Chloe Beckerman twisted things up for spring with a playful collection of girly dresses and biker-inspired separates — perfect for the Tse: “Weightlessness and the gravity of clothing,” quirky hipster. Tess Giberson said of the collection backstage. But such esoterica doesn’t give the full picture. Giberson Heatherette: Paris is interested in selling clothes that women wear and and Nicky and keep, and with all of that in mind, she spun a subtly Mya, oh my avant-garde collection that played with exaggerated — those were proportions. She ventured further into nonknit territory just a few of the like great trenches and crisp shirts. Of course, the meat celebs who strutted of Tse is still knitwear, which came in everything from for Richie Rich shorts to dresses. Araks ▲ and Traver Raines’ “Pirates of the Peter Som: In the group of young American designers Caribbean”- working the pretty motif, Peter Som is one of the deftest. inspired His tent dresses and poufy skirts, done in mixed jacquards collection, and damasks, offer plenty of options for the young, which included polished gal. spangled dresses Marchesa: Hollywood indulgence or a serious attempt at meshed with Malo a business? If it’s the latter, then Marchesa’s Karen Craig skull-printed and Georgina Chapman need to muster the polish that the Ts and effort requires. A certain celebrity connection put the duo denim shorts. in the spotlight, but that kind of entrée leaves no room for unfinished hems or a lack of refinement. On Tuesday, the Arthur Mendonça: Toronto-based Arthur designers showed a collection in which amateurish over- Mendonça showed a lovely collection of soft, exuberance often got the better of them, a situation made all airy daywear with a prairie girl-hippie twist, all the more dire by their relentless rosette theme. The designers done in a gentle palette of clay and mauve.

▲ Ports 1961 simply aimed too high, from dresses done with Eighties-era oomph to grandiose gowns. Lesson one: If it’s too much on the runway, it’s Douglas Hannant: Douglas Hannant shaved red-carpet suicide. decades off his usually more mature day suits and cocktail dresses, this time rendered in very short lengths and pretty girly shapes. 10 WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 14, 2006 Fashion Scoops fashion fans to chow down on comfort food like hamburgers and French fries and listen to the Uma Thurman with Tag Heuer North American president current DJ favorites the Misshapes spin. and chief executive offi cer Daniel Lalonde. But the house’s fashion week celebrations don’t end tonight. The company is also exhibiting the poetry of Robert Gabriel on installations in its Madison Avenue Collection boutique until Monday. The words of the 26-year-old artist adorn the store’s windows, columns and walls in oversize letters. They include such fashion wisdoms as “Her Lashes...Hit the Floor” and “The Dress Night Wear...is Black.”

JAVA TALK: Graydon Carter didn’t have to pull many strings to snare the yet-to-open Waverly Inn for a party in honor of Vanity Fair writer David Kamp, who has just written the book “The United States of Arugula.” After all, Carter’s a partner in the venture. And since he’s also editor in chief of Vanity Fair, virtually the entire masthead showed up, as did Oliver Platt, Kurt Andersen, Mario Batali, Brian Grazer, Louise Grunwald, Fran Lebowitz, Frank Rich and Sandra Bernhard. Ingrid One elitist in attendance suggested Starbucks had destroyed the pleasure of listening to Ella Vandebosch Fitzgerald; that all this high-mindedness was just making the world a more jaded place. and Jeff But the author would have none of it. Gordon “Starbucks may have destroyed the rock snob’s pleasure of listening to Nick Drake,” Kamp said, “but they’ve done a good job of making people fl uent in Sulawesi coffee and artisanal teas. Dita Von I have nothing against the democratization of good taste.” Teese on stage. REALLY, I’M SHY: The endless crush of paparazzi shows New York Fashion Week is really all about fash-o-tainment. Which raises the question why a star would agree to go to a show if she didn’t want to be photographed? Demi Moore and Ashton Kutcher — this season’s Paris and Nicky Hilton in their ubiquitousness — pulled a Greta Garbo act at Narciso Rodriguez’s show on Tuesday night, with bulky security guards chasing the paparazzi away. And just to make sure, a wall-size guard stood directly in front of the acting duo, scooting away just as the lights went down so Kutcher could jot down notes for the reviews he’s writing for Harper’s Bazaar.

CHICAGO HITS NEW YORK: Hip-hopper-turned-Broadway star Usher created some gridlock as he made his way to the front row of Michael Kors’ show Wednesday morning, where he was seated alongside Hilary Duff. The 25-year-old Usher was taking in the collection on his day off from “Chicago,” where he is starring as the fast-talking lawyer Billy Flynn until Oct. 1. He then begins work on a new album. “I love Michael Kors,” said Usher, decked out in a Kors suit. “This is the only show I am going to. Tonight, I might go to a party, but it depends. Broadway is really a grueling schedule. We have matinees on the weekends and shows at night. ‘Chicago’ has been a great experience. I’ve learned a lot as a performer and about being consistent. It’s been real exhilarating.” THE FEMININE MYSTIQUE: It was all about the woman on Tuesday night at Tag Elsewhere at Kors were Kanye West, Serena Williams, Christine Ebersole Heuer’s bash hosted by Uma Thurman and company president and chief executive and “Chicago” alum Bebe Neuwirth, who was asked by a representative of Go offi cer Jean-Christophe Babin at the Waterfront on Manhattan’s West Side. Fifteen Smile tooth whitener to pose for a photo with the product. Neuwirth declined, female international stars, including Emmanuelle Seigner, Tilda Swinton and Dita Von saying, “Oh no, I get paid for advertising.” Teese, were photographed by 15 female photographers, such as Isabelle Bonjean, Mary McCartney and Mary Ellen Mark, for “Strength and Beauty Embodied by Avant- SOM’S CELEBS: Emmy Rossum, Erika Christensen and Jaime King all showed up to Garde Women,” an exhibition to benefi t UNIFEM, the United Nations Development support Peter Som on Wednesday morning and giddily whispered to each other Fund for Women. The photos will be auctioned off sometime in 2007. In his throughout the show. All three have been busy this week appearing at shows second fashion week event thus far, Jared Leto was checking out the photographs and parties alike. Christensen, meanwhile, is juggling a shooting schedule for with friends. “Historically, makeup was worn by men [as well as women],” said her new ABC series, “Six Degrees.” The switch from fi lm to TV is something Leto, who was sporting kohl-rimmed eyes and dark nail polish. “It’s tribal. It’s she’s adjusting to, she said. “It keeps sinking in. It’s like shooting a movie, but ritual. It’s not about looking better, it’s about experimenting and being yourself.” it just keeps going, in a great way.” Race car driver and Tag Heuer spokesman Jeff Gordon, on the other hand, had Further down the runway, the social set was taking notes on spring trends. other things on his mind — namely, Von Teese’s newest burlesque performance, “I can’t tell. Is it about the skinny leg or the wide leg?” Lauren duPont asked in in which she would writhe within a life-size jeweled bird cage with requisite swing. mock frustration. “That’s why I’m here — to investigate.” “Didn’t we see her once on television?” Gordon asked fi ancée Ingrid Vandebosch (perhaps, but only on cable). Drea de Matteo, Carmen Electra and Delta Goodrem settled Emmy Rossum, Erika Christensen and Jaime King, all in Peter Som. in for the performance, while Eve and Jade Jagger, with posse in tow, arrived just before the late show. Eve

JUST FRIENDS: What was Tommy Hilfi ger doing in the front row of Narciso Rodriguez’s show Tuesday night — and why did the designer thank Hilfi ger in his program notes? Naturally, the appearance immediately set off chatter that Hilfi ger might be looking to make another investment à la Karl Lagerfeld. But Hilfi ger, who was at the show with Dee Ocleppo and even made a pit stop at the after party, denied any such rumors. “Narciso is a friend of mine,” he said. “I think he is the next great American design talent. I support him.”

A DOWNTOWN AFFAIR: Calvin Klein is making sure its much-talked-about party tonight is worth the wait: The label is taking over the top fl oor of the newly rebuilt 7 World Trade Center building. The raw space, which offers 360-degree views, is being entirely decorated by Calvin Klein’s visual team for the fete, from temporary walls, to fl oor coverings, STYLE HOUND: Chanel, Oscar de la Renta and Carolina Herrera may be fi ne for some of the to custom-made furniture — mainly Ladies Who Lunch, but Eleanor Ylvisaker is starting a fashion week trend among her friends by in minimal white, of course. Two bars Robert sniffi ng out covetable looks from little-known Eventide. The tiny, Brooklyn line, now in it’s third have also been constructed. Hosts Gabriel’s poetry season, is the work of FIT grads Sarah Spratt and Christian Stroble. Ylvisaker made the scene Drew Barrymore, Maggie Gyllenhaal and at Calvin Klein at the Marchesa after party in the label’s “Bubble Dress,” which had also been picked up by house model Natalia Vodianova will join Collection. her buddies Ferebee Bishop and Tinsley Mortimer after they saw her in it. “I’m obsessed,” the Francisco Costa and a crowd of exhausted Earnest Sewn public relations director cheerfully admits. Lucky for her, the line is hard to fi nd: WWD.COM Kate Spade’s Poppies tote, created in collaboration with British artist Hugo Guinness.

In Manhattan, it’s sold only at TG 170 or by direct order from Spratt and Stroble themselves.

POPPY LOVE: Kate Spade and British artist Hugo Guinness have gone back to the drawing board for their second collaboration on a limited-edition bag. Today, the accessories fi rm will unveil the Poppies totes, a series of PVC or canvas bags printed with a bold botanical graphic that is characteristic of Guinness’ pen and ink drawings. The bags are due to hit Kate Spade stores this spring, selling for $195 for the clear version and $225 for the canvas silhouette.

MODEL TENNIS STAR: Now that her work at the U.S. Open is done, Nicole Vaidisova — the youngest player in the top 10, at age 17 — can take in fashions of a different sort. Vaidisova, also an IMG Model, will sit front row at J. Mendel Thursday morning and will attend the Calvin Klein after party that night.

DANCING CLOTHES: Oscar de la Renta and Michael Kors will be designing costumes for this season’s American Ballet Theatre, confi ded Peter W. Lyden, director of development for ABT. De la Renta’s designs will coordinate with dances to Frank Sinatra’s music, Lyden added Tuesday at a dinner at Bond Street celebrating Malo’s show. Lyden came with Susan Fales Hill, who is also involved with ABT. CC Dyer, Countess Isabel Rattazzi, fi lm producer John Hart and Tonino Perna, chief executive of IT Holding — parent of Malo — were also on hand.

ROCK STEADY: With $300 million worth of jewels dripping in diamonds and pearls to style for his runway show at Bryant Park on Friday night, “Iceman” Chris Aire wasn’t hearing anything about the death of bling. “When rap culture fi rst started, people tried to kill it, but if something has a beating heart, it’s just not going to die,” said the jeweler, who went on to deliver another over-the-top presentation that included a rousing opening by Cee Lo and Danger Mouse of Gnarls Barkley, a politically tinged closing by Mos Def and lots of models like Lydia Hearst, Alek Wek and Tyson Beckford dressed in next to nothing but watches, necklaces, bracelets and rings in between. Rap diva Lil’ Kim showed up wearing plenty of Aire’s gems and a black minidress with a plunging neckline. She, like Diddy’s mom, Janice Combs, had just come from the Baby Phat show, which Combs said she adored. “I loved all the short outfi ts,” said Combs. “But, you know, I can’t wear those kind of things anymore because I’m a grandma.”

BIRTHDAY BASH: Robin Givhan spent most of her 42nd birthday Monday in Bryant Park, but planned to celebrate later over dinner. “I plan to drink as much as possible once I’m done fi ling,” she laughed. Fashion week hasn’t always infringed on her birthday. “I blame Helmut Lang for ruining my birthday. After he showed in New York, everything was moved up and up. I’m very bitter about it — I’m very big on my birthday.” But Givhan wasn’t the only scribe tentbound on the day she was born — Cathy Horyn also rang in another year there Monday.

PAPER DOLLS: How does a jewelry fi rm stand out during fashion week? By going above and beyond. For the unveiling of its annual Blue Book one- of-a-kind jewelry collection on Sunday, Tiffany & Co. hired event designer David E. Monn to create a larger-than-life Tiffany blue gift box at the company’s Manhattan fl agship, where eight models posed within, wearing over $15 million worth of jewelry and architecturally inspired paper dresses and gowns. “They’re exact opposites,” said Monn of the combination of precious jewels and paper, including corrugated cardboard and the more malleable crepe paper. “Paper is a luxury, and nowadays, with the Internet, it’s going to become more of a luxury.”` Caroline OPEN DANCE CARD: While her mother was known Kennedy as an arbiter of style, Caroline Kennedy Schlossberg Schlossberg is not so entwined in the fashion world. “I haven’t at Asprey. been invited to any shows. My dance card isn’t full JIMI CELESTE/ PMC BY SCHLOSSBERG STEVE EICHNER; KENNEDY ROSSUM PHOTO BY yet,” joked the former fi rst daughter when asked if she’d be attending any fashion shows this week. Kennedy Schlossberg made an appearance at a Shop 4 Class shopping event at Asprey’s 57th Street store on Thursday evening, where the fi rm donated 10 percent of its proceeds in the store to the charity and will continue to do so for the next two weeks. Kennedy Schlossberg signed copies of her book, “A Family of Poems: My Favorite Poetry for Children,” and also read an excerpt. Shop 4 Class is a back-to-school retail promotion that was launched in August in which over 80 retailers, including Rowley and Nicole Miller donated a percentage of their sales to Library REACH, a grant program that helps public schools improve their libraries. Last minute, Kennedy Schlossberg did remember that she was invited to Cynthia Rowley’s show on Thursday and said she may attend.

FASHION WEEK ONLINE

Check out WWD.com for the latest news from New York Fashion Aspen Bal Harbour Palm Beach – info: 1-877 see-malo New York www.malo.it Week including reviews, Fashion Scoops and photo galleries. 12 WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 14, 2006 WWD.COM

▼ Caroline Winberg in Miu Miu with Jacquetta Wheeler in Marchesa Milk and Honey and Jovovich-Hawke. If there was any question New York Fashion Week has become about celebrity, it was resoundingly answered Tuesday night on the top fl oor of Milk Studios, where an endless stream of the famous headed for a dinner cohosted by Jefferson Hack’s Another Magazine and David Yurman in honor of the semiannual glossy’s cover star Kirsten Dunst. Kate Moss, Karen Elson, Jacquetta Wheeler, Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough were among the fashion crowd who stopped by to mix it up with Dunst (in Proenza straight off the runway), Sofi a Coppola, Eva Mendes, Mary-Kate Olsen and Kate Bosworth, who was in town for the Marc Jacobs and Zac Posen shows, among others. “I’m very excited about the handbag and ankle booties he [Posen] just sent to me,” Bosworth confessed. “And it’s really nice to be sent stuff from Marc Jacobs, too.” Moss whizzed by, smoking a cigarette and trailed by her overprotective handler. “Ask an important question, Mary-Kate and then let us go,” barked Moss’ Olsen, Lazaro guard dog to a guest. “So sorry,” Hernandez, the notorious model explained. Vanessa Traina, “She’s my agent.” Jack McCollough After dinner, guests headed and Victoria downstairs to a gallery space to Traina chill out. watch The Kills perform. As loads of hipsters poured through the doors, Olsen, Dunst, Zooey Deschanel and Vanessa Traina sought cover in a temporary VIP space created by a row of armchairs in the corner. Unexpected guest Paris Hilton also headed to the corner, only to fi nd that this was, perhaps, not her crowd. She Narciso headed out again just as quickly as she’d come in, only to lose her footing Rodriguez and hit the decks, much to the delight of onlookers. Meanwhile, Lindsay Lohan and Moss held court in the penthouse as the party raged on. Uptown at Asia de Cuba at Morgans, Narciso Rodriguez gathered his nearest and dearest for cocktails following his show. “I just wanted something more intimate, where all of my friends could come and have good food,” explained Rodriguez of his venue choice. “I went to one of the Kate best parties of my life here. It’s nice to go back to a classic New York.” His besties Moss in Jerry and Jessica Seinfeld (whose birthday it was) were on hand to honor the designer. Azzedine Over at The Double Seven, Marchesa’s Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig were kicking up Alaïa. their heels after their runway show. “It’s across from our studio, and they have a great margarita,” Mischa Barton and Chapman said of her party den of choice. But with Georgina Chapman, each cocktail, the designer began to regret her both in Marchesa. impending vacation plans with her mum. “We’re going camping in Peru for two weeks. I don’t think I thought that one through,” she joked. “I’d rather be doing another collection.” Meanwhile, Craig held court in the back room with Mischa Barton and her stylist Rachel Zoe, though the ingenue ducked out early to get a slice of pizza. Karolina Kurkova, Anouck Margherita Missoni, Diego Garcia and, Lepère in 3.1 of course, Harvey Weinstein stayed until Phillip Lim at the wee hours. Milk Studios. Nancy Jarecki with Jessica Seinfeld in Kate Narciso Rodriguez. Bosworth in Marc Jacobs. Chai Style Hard-working stylist Tina Chai will have an extra, non-fashion week reason to party when she celebrates her birthday tonight on the Lower East Side. Chai’s backstage handiwork was seen at the likes of Thakoon, Lela Rose, Peter Som and Rachel Roy and, if that weren’t enough, she also already has braved shows including Marc Jacobs, Rodarte, Proenza Schouler, Richard Chai, Michael Kors and Oscar de la Renta for further research. Of course, she had her survival staples in hand: water, Flintstones vitamins, Ictyane hand cream, lemon-mint-flavored Ricola drops and a healthy late-night fix of flicks from Turner Classic Movies. Setting aside her hefty Hermès agenda this evening, she’ll be swilling with friends at the low-key Slipper Margherita Room to mark her birthday. Whether Chai Missoni in will don a favorite Marc by Marc Jacobs Kirsten Missoni jumpsuit or Peter Som or Thakoon piece Dunst in and Gap for the occasion (and whether famed Tina Chai with pal Proenza at Milk client and Columbia grad pal Amanda and client Thakoon Schouler. Studios. Peet will stop by) remains to be seen. Panichgul. ANOTHER MAGAZINE AND MARCHESA PHOTOS BY JIMI CELESTE; NARCISO BY STEVE EICHNER BY JIMI CELESTE; NARCISO PHOTOS BY ANOTHER MAGAZINE AND MARCHESA

14 WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 14, 2006 WWD.COM Mango Makes Its U.S. Move By David Moin Mango in Zaragoza, Spain… ango, a Johnny-come-lately among international Mretailers, is finally on the move in the U.S. — and wants to be as dominant there as it is in Europe. The company has been carefully scouting the U.S. market for suitable sites, creating anticipation over the last several seasons about when the privately owned, $1.4 billion Barcelona fashion chain would follow in the footsteps of Hennes & Mauritz and Zara and land on American shores. “It’s diffi cult to fi nd the best locations in the best malls,” said José Gómez, Mango’s vice president of busi- ness development, during an interview with key mem- bers of the Mango team. “In Europe, we are relatively high-street based, but America is a mall culture, though we are planning street locations, as well. “By the end of the year, we will have 15 stores opened in the U.S., in major metropolitan areas. We are a very strong brand in Europe. We are working toward that goal [in the U.S.].” So far, just two American stores have opened. The fi rst was a 5,737-square-foot shop in South Coast Plaza, Costa Mesa, Calif.; the second was in Bellevue Square in Seattle. The original plan was to open the fi rst U.S. Mango in Santa Monica, Calif., last November, but con- struction problems caused delays. By the end of the year, more units will open in such … and in Jerez, Spain. high-profi le locations as the Third Street Promenade in … and in Jerez, Spain. Los Angeles, Water Tower Place in Chicago, Northpark Center in Dallas and the San Francisco Center, Gómez same characteristics in all said. The stores will be a mix of corporate-owned and Looks from Mango stores.” franchised units that in malls could be situated near up- Mango’s fall According to Judit Ventura scale stores such as Chloé or lower-priced chains such collection. Lizandra, design director, as Club Monaco, Gómez said. The brand does have fl ex- The Spanish Mango produces four sports- ibility in where it sits in the center, but the center itself brand offers wear collections annually as must be an “A” mall, he said. a complete well as an eveningwear line, The stores in the U.S. are called MNG By Mango be- women’s and stores are refreshed with cause of trademark regulations; the MNG label appears assortment. new shipments each week. on the clothes worldwide. Key fall trends include jer- “The U.S. is our last frontier. It’s very important, but sey dresses, animal prints, there is really not much availability for any good sites. leggings and skinny-leg pants You have to fi ght for or wait for them. The good places with oversize tops inspired are always taken.” by the Eighties, and there is Mango’s U.S. stores will be 4,000 to 8,000 square also a new focus on active- feet, though in other countries, they are as large as wear that’s functional and 20,000 square feet, like the fl agship on Oxford Street comfortable. Basic products in London. But Gómez said not to take that as a sign of such as jeans and cardigans being tentative about the U.S. are also integral to the col- “With 15 stores by the end of this year, we don’t con- lection, though Lizandra sider that an experiment,” he said. adds, “They’re never just Asked how many stores are envisioned for the States, basic. They have a twist.” he replied, “The market will tell us.” He said there Mango also sells acces- was no perceived cap, though there have been previ- sories, shoes, outerwear, ous reports quoting Mango offi cials predicting around perfume, lingerie and swim- 250 units in a decade, assuming real estate that meets wear, taking a head-to-toe Mango’s high standards becomes available. approach in designing for “New York is coming,” Gómez added. “We signed a women, and no one else. “We lease at 561 Broadway for 8,000 square feet. We consider don’t get distracted by men’s that our fl agship” in the U.S. It will open in the fall of wear or kids,” Gómez noted. 2007. The company has also been eyeing Fifth Avenue There is a limited-edition and other Manhattan venues. line designed by “very well Mango, founded in 1984, operates almost 1,000 stores known” designers whom Mango prefers to keep secret. worldwide and has been opening 100 stores annually for It’s an edgier and special occasion-oriented collection, the past few years. The biggest market is Spain, where using silks and wools extensively and sold in 120 stores. there are 240 Mango stores and its major — and larger Overall, the company has 6,000 employees, about — competitor is Zara, which is owned by Inditex. Zara, 1,200 of them in the head offi ce in Barcelona, including which was one of the fi rst international fast-fashion re- about 100 on the design team. They create more than tailers to enter the U.S., was for years content to have 4,000 garments each year. There are fabric specialists only a few stores in America, but is now understood to and pattern makers, as well as two pop culture experts be aggressively searching for sites. who travel the world and bring back information on Mango waited a long time to enter the U.S., but trends in the world of art and fi lm to inspire new cat- Gómez explained, “We understand that this is a very egories, silhouettes, colors or prints. Last spring, for ex- highly competitive market. We wanted to be ready.” ample, the upcoming movie “Marie Antoinette” inspired Mango is not widely known among U.S. consum- The Mango team: Judit Ventura Lizandra, a line of corsets and lots of frills and embroidery. This ers, but to build awareness, the retailer’s image cata- Damián Sánchez and José Gómez. fall, Ali MacGraw of “Love Story” fame is the inspira- logue, with 25 pages, will be distributed in a 10-mile CENTENO TALAYA MANGO TEAM PHOTO BY tion for a “university casual” look with college stripes radius from the new stores. Top models or celebri- new concept. We will try to make it very different.” He and young American touches. Mango offi cials say they’re ties have appeared in the catalogues and ads, such as declined to give details about the store. not a knockoff house, though sleeve and neckline shapes Milla Jovovich, who is in the current campaign, and The company, he said, spends a lot on aesthetics. from the fall collection were inspired by Balenciaga and Claudia Schiffer, Elizabeth Jagger and Naomi Campbell. “Every four or fi ve years, we tend to change our stores. a recent exposition in Paris about the Spanish designer. Worldwide, the company mails 20 million catalogues It is expensive. We do it in all stores. The important Unlike its rival Zara, Mango doesn’t have its own manu- translated into 25 languages. [constant] is that they are very feminine and have lots facturing facilities; it sources mainly in China, India, Mango demonstrated that it was coming to the U.S. of light. And we always look for contrast, with mirrors Africa and Eastern Europe. in earnest a year ago, when the company opened a and metallic things that refl ect and contrast with woods While Mango tends to attract the 18-to-35 age brack- 20,000-square-foot distribution center in Edison, N.J. It or stone fl oors.” et, prices most products from $20 to $250 and shares can be enlarged as the number of stores grows in the Stores are decorated with green plants and vintage the same demographics as Gap, Banana Republic and U.S., offi cials said. furniture from antique shops. “We give an individual- Abercrombie & Fitch, it sells many more styles. Last year, Mango entered Canada with a handful of ity to the stores. That’s a very important feature of our But Lizandra, who has a sharp vision of the Mango shops, and plans 25 there in the next fi ve to six years. brand. We try to be respectful to the original architec- woman, says, “She does not have a specifi c age, but she Other new markets this year were Syria, Mauritius, ture of the building.” That’s why the company consid- has a lifestyle that’s modern and cosmopolitan. She’s Monaco and Uzbekistan. Further expansion is focused ers itself more a group of boutiques than a chain with a very feminine, knows about fashion and likes to in- on China, Europe, Japan and the U.S. uniform approach. corporate the trends to her own style, but she’s never “Our stores adapt to each different city, but they all “Along with the individuality of each store, there is a fashion victim. She’s sophisticated and she follows follow the trend of the brand,” said Damián Sánchez, still the Mango look that permeates; the more functional the trends. Fashion is part of her life. [She’s a] career creative director. “New York will be the beginning of a part of the shop remains the same. You see some of the woman who wants quality and comfort.” THE SPRING ’07 COLLECTION BY LAURA PORETZKY at New York Fashion Week, September 14th.

The Abaeté Fall Footwear Collection, now exclusively at

©2006 PSSW 16 WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 14, 2006 WWD.COM Aerie Partners With CW for Campaign

By Sharon Edelson pendent musicians. The series kicked off with a live perfor- mance by Ben Lee at the retailer’s Union Square fl agship in merican Eagle Outfi tters’ aerie subbrand is invading net- Manhattan. Lee recorded an exclusive song for aerie, avail- Awork series television by melding its marketing message able for free download on aerie.com. Another artist, Sia, re- into the episodes of dramas. corded a single for aerie that can also be downloaded at no The goal: to connect with viewers who have tuned out con- cost. Lee’s music video featuring models wearing aerie cloth- ventional commercials and push the envelope on advertising ing can be viewed on the Web site. and content. Last month, J.C. Penney Co. Inc. blurred the lines between The retailer, in partnership with the CW network, is striving advertising and entertainment when it sponsored the MTV to make an impact on Tuesday nights, which, beginning Oct. 3, Music Video Awards and real-time feeds from the show were will be known as “aerie Tuesdays” on the network. The promo- integrated into two Penney’s commercials. tion will last through Dec. 5. Aerie views its program with the CW as “groundbreaking,” Savitt Just before the start of Tuesday evening’s lineup of said. “A partnership of this nature has never been done before.” “Veronica Mars” and “Gilmore Girls,” an announcer will intro- She declined to disclose the cost of the marketing program, duce “aerie Tuesdays on the CW.” There will be one traditional saying, “We view this as a co-marketing sponsorship rather 30-second commercial for aerie. After that, “Veronica Mars” than a traditional advertising sales buy.” will begin. There will be a break during each program for what Although American Eagle is paying for the traditional 30- Kathy Savitt, chief marketing offi cer for American Eagle, de- second commercial, Savitt suggested that the air time for the scribed as 30-second shows-within-a-show. They will feature shows-within-a-show will be “traded” for the exposure that the six handpicked aerie customers who will be seen having wa- Aerie is CW programs get at American Eagle stores and on the aerie tercooler conversations about the program in progress. partnering and company Web sites. “If the Veronica character breaks up with her boyfriend, we with “They’re trading their assets for our assets,” she said. would cut to the girls who may say that Veronica was a little the CW “We’re doing an e-mail campaign to our customers about aerie harsh,” Savitt said. The messages seen at the bottom of the network. Tuesdays. We’re driving awareness and traffi c to the shows. television screen will tease the aerie segments just before the American Eagle There’s a true sweet spot between the CW audience and ae- start of each show. Outfi tter’s rie’s customer….Partnering with AE is a marketing strategy “Veronica Mars” and “Gilmore Girls” are still in production, aerie subbrand for the CW. They’re seeking to increase discovery of ‘Veronica and Savitt said the people appearing in the aerie spots will watch is delving Mars’ and ‘Gilmore Girls’ with a targeted demographic with the show and talk about the key themes in real time. The broad- deeper into whom we’re a national leader.” cast will be in a Los Angeles American Eagle store with a large entertainment. The spots are being coproduced by American Eagle and the area for aerie, which consists of dormwear and intimate apparel. television network. The people who will appear in them were “The aerie girls may become characters in and of themselves,” Savitt added. selected from a small subset of best customers who are also members of the retailer’s “They’ll be supported on the CW network, in our stores on fl at-screen TVs and on the All Access Pass loyalty program. Most are between 18 and 22 years old. aerie, AE and CW Web sites. We’ll faciliate discovery of these two shows through win- While the girls are not part of the scripted shows, “if a girl becomes very popular, dow promotions, in-store signage, exclusive content on our in-store TV network and she may do a cameo on one of the programs,” Savitt said. Cast members of the CW shopping bag stuffers,” Savitt said. “This is one of the best examples in recent time of shows will make surprise visits to American Eagle stores. true multichannel marketing.” “We want to have a relationship with our customer in all areas of her life — music, This is not aerie’s fi rst foray into entertainment. Earlier this month, American television and fi lm,” Savitt said. “It’s safe to say that as part of our customer focus, we’ll Eagle announced the aerie music series, which seeks to identify emerging and inde- be looking to develop relevance and context with our customers. Stay tuned for fi lm.”

wide open.” Eichenwald will join Portfolio Oct. 1, but will continue to be based in Dallas. — Stephanie D. Smith MEMO PAD HAUTE HOLIDAYS: “What’s a nice Yeshiva girl to do?” That’s the question Isaac Mizrahi poses (and answers) in BUTT RIGHT IN: Helmut Lang is causing a stir in Europe an upcoming interview on high holiday fashions with The — but because of nudity, not clothing. The idled fashion Forward, a Jewish newspaper in New York that interviews designer, whose eponymous brand is now owned by Link a designer for the holidays for the fi rst time. The Theory and designed by the former Habitual team, is designer opines on whether animal skins are Yom Kippur- the focus of an eye-popping seven-page portfolio in the appropriate (no, says Mizrahi, who suggests getting “your current issue of the Dutch quarterly Butt, which trumpets fur-trimmed thrills at Rosh Hashanah. On [Yom Kippur] itself as a “fantastic magazine for homosexuals.” everyone is supposed to jump on the Stella McCartney The spread opens with a waist-down “self-portrait” bandwagon and wear synthetic shoes. What about a divine of Lang wearing fl imsy (to say the least) white gym pair of satin Prada platform clogs? Or velvet clogs from shorts, followed by multiple snapshots he took of his feet Marc Jacobs with socks? That’s a sin anyone could atone propped up against cropped photos of men not wearing for.” As for the relative merits of black on Rosh Hashanah, shorts of any kind. There’s also a brief Q&A in which the A “self-portrait” of Helmut Lang in Butt magazine. Mizrahi is measured but admits that he’ll be wearing the designer responds to such questions as: “If you could color all fall, having “put on about 10 pounds giving up design your own genitals, what would they look like?” Lalanne, features editor at French Vogue since 2003, smoking, and the only way to look the least bit presentable His reply? “I have no need to redesign.” According to is taking on the editor in chief duties and also will is [in] black.” — Irin Carmon the article, Lang took the series of photos for Butt at his serve as associate editor in chief of French Vogue, a farm on Long Island, N.Y. He said of the foot photos: “I new position. Carine Roitfeld, editor in chief of French don’t particularly like my feet, so I felt they needed some Vogue since 2001, also will assume the role of editorial TRAVELING AROUND: Travel + Leisure has been shaking up serious backdrop.” director at Vogue Hommes International. A Condé Nast its masthead. New features director Alice Gordon comes But Butt isn’t Lang’s only newsstand appearance this spokeswoman said Danto will continue to work with the to T+L from Martha Stewart Living, while Nelson Mui, a fall. The designer also has a 10-page portfolio in German company on a project basis, but she declined to comment society columnist at San Francisco Magazine, is replacing fashion magazine Achtung’s latest issue — albeit without further on his departure. Danto’s reign as editor in chief Laura Begley as the magazine’s style editor. Begley, who any fl esh. The cryptic contribution shows arrangements was brief: He held the position for just over a year. Xavier was style director, has been promoted to deputy editor. of red wax seals on blue paper and hand-drawn charts Romatet, managing director of Condé Nast France, said Editor in chief Nancy Novogrod also raided the mastheads juxtaposed against dictionary defi nitions of such words as that, by placing the same tandem at the head of French of two other travel titles — new news editor John Newton pecking order, aristocratic and accountant. What does it Vogue and Vogue Hommes International, he wants to was a contributing editor to Condé Nast Traveler, and Nina all mean? “I don’t know,” confessed Achtung founder and strengthen the identity and editorial “cohesion” between Willdorf has come from Budget Travel to be senior editor chief editor Markus Ebner. “It’s crests from famous German the two magazines. — Amy Wicks at T+L. Nilou Motamed has moved up from senior editor to and Austrian aristocratic families. I fi nd it sort of beautiful features editor. — I.C. the way it colors the pages.” TIME TO GO: Joanne Lipman just snagged another talent. A spokesman for Lang said the magazine submissions The latest journalist to join Condé Nast Portfolio will be PHOTO WARS: Although former chief lensman Patrick are part of an ongoing project titled “Long Island Kurt Eichenwald, a senior writer and investigative reporter Demarchelier left Hearst Magazines in 2004, he’s giving Diaries” containing assorted records “without the usual at The New York Times since 1988 who covered security back to his old employer by donating a photograph and conventional dynamics of diaries.” An excerpt was scandals at fi rms including Prudential Securities and from his personal collection during Hearst’s 30 Days of published in the French fashion magazine Self Service Enron and most recently garnered acclaim for his report Fashion exhibit and auction today at the Hearst Tower. earlier this year with this oblique explanation from Lang: on child pornography. Eichenwald’s reporting led to the Demarchelier, now under corporate contract to shoot “I am against putting myself in a situation of defi ning closing of many portals that linked to online child porn exclusively for Condé Nast titles, including Vogue, what I am doing right now because it would not allow sites and a Congressional investigation into their growth, Glamour and Vanity Fair, will donate a 24-by-20-inch an organic outcome.” The spokesman added that Lang in which he was subpoenaed to testify in hearings. signed untitled photo of dancing model Carmen Kass that does not plan to work in fashion “in the traditional sense, “I love the Times and I will always love the Times, appeared in Harper’s Bazaar in 2001. Meanwhile, current but part of his fashion DNA could be translated into but this was just a really exciting opportunity,” said Harper’s photographer Peter Lindbergh contributed an his ongoing projects.” These include Lang’s “Selective Eichenwald, who resigned Monday. “[It’s] the chance to autographed print of model Amber Valletta dressed as an Memory Series,” a compilation of “written material, be a part of one of the greatest magazine start-ups of my angel in New York’s Grand Central Station. Demarchelier’s notes, documents, visuals and records of events since lifetime, to be there on the ground fl oor and have an effect photo has a value of $8,000; Lindberg’s 36-by-24-inch 1986,” excerpts of which will soon be published, he on its direction.” The journalist said he also was drawn to work is valued at $19,500. Other items to be auctioned added. — Miles Socha Portfolio because of its lack of defi ned roles for editorial at the event include photos donated by Timothy Greenfi eld- coverage. “While the Times has allowed me to go from area Sanders and Karl Lagerfeld, a private dinner for 12 hosted ADIEU, HOMMES: Bruno Danto is out as editor in chief of to area, in the end there is a beat structure there. Portfolio by Esquire editor David Granger and chef Danny Meyer, and a Vogue Hommes International and Olivier Lalanne is in. is not a newspaper, there is no beat structure. The world is $30,700 seven-day trip to India. — S.D.S. An Advertising Section in WWD Thursday, September 14, 2006

NEW YORK TO LIVE A MATERIAL September 26-28, 2006

WORLDMaterial World New York, the nation’s leading The event, September 26-28, 2006, at the their participation to appropriate attendees.” fabric and sourcing event, will accentuate the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center, New York, is Exhibitors from China, Pakistan and India as latest innovations in fabric, production and an offi cial event of the American Apparel & well as domestic resources are including home sourcing across the globe impacting the apparel Footwear Association (AAFA), offering a global fabrics as well, “so it’s becoming more of a multi- industry, stressed Tim von Gal, president of exposition on fabrics and services, color and category fabric show from that standpoint.” Material World. trend forecasts for fall-winter 2007, and a Unlike other shows, Material World’s exhibition “From design to delivery, Material World will comprehensive educational program. fl oor will focus specifi cally on sourcing and be the world’s premier global sourcing, fabric, “AAFA is looking forward to a robust second innovations in fabrics, fi bers, trimmings, garment trim and trend trade event for the entire sewn edition of the New York show,” remarked Kevin M. production and technology. products industry,” he asserted. Burke, president and ceo, AAFA. “As a fashion While the show is international in spirit from capital, New York presents an exhibitor perspective, its attendee focus is the a key opportunity for the Americas — North, South and Central America, decision-makers from both and the Caribbean Basin, “which is a very the global brands and important region for our industry,” noted Betty international manufacturing Webb-Moore, director of sales, Material World. community to come together As New York is the international platform for in a very strategic and the apparel industry, Material World New York collaborative way.” was a natural extension, von Gal noted. “New York

“From design to delivery, Material World New York will be the world’s premier global sourcing, fabric, trim and trend trade event for the entire sewn products industry.”

— Tim von Gal, president, Material World

Created and produced by offers us a broader global platform. In addition to Urban Expositions, Atlanta, a strong domestic base and good representation the upcoming event will of Latin American companies, there will be draw close to 500 exhibiting many exhibitors from China, from Taiwan, from booths, (50 percent larger Pakistan, Thailand, India and Bangladesh, as than last year), with 5,000- well as 37 companies from Africa — so we’ve got 7,000 attendees from an extended international fl avor in New York.” several different industries, Unlike apparel industry fi nished product von Gal reported. The show shows that include fabric and sourcing as small will be about 100,000 gross parts of their assortments, those categories will square feet of exhibit space, be Material World New York’s sole focus, von Gal all on one level of the Javits asserted. Center. Material World New York’s special educational Also new this year will programs will also feature diverse programs and be home decorative fabric tracks on important issues that are “the nuts and suppliers. “In addition to the bolts of what’s happening in the industry.” traditional apparel fabrics Material World New York will include the suppliers, we received many most important suppliers internationally, he inquiries from the home noted. “That’s one of the things that make it very fabrics industry. They kept important. In our trend area, creative director calling and calling, so we Kevin Knaus synthesizes all the different forecasts have accommodated this and trends that are out there. People coming to group and are marketing Continued to Material World, page 2 ADVERTISEMENT Fabric Innovations Highlight Material World the industry associations.” In addition to their valuable roles as alliance partner and in their production of educational seminars at the show, AAFA hosts various member meetings and discussions that truly benefi t the show’s attendance. AAFA offers support on the exhibitor side as well, with technology companies, mills and fi ber companies. “It’s a very positive relationship. They are a great association with tremendous people. We truly enjoy working with them.” The upcoming Material World will be the second in New York, following the fi rst in September 2005. Material World New York will be held once this year, once in 2007 and twice a year starting in 2008, von Gal added. Urban Expositions fi rst started speaking with AAFA about becoming the event’s offi cial alliance partner a number of years ago. The alliance offi cially began in 2003, he said. ”When we joined with AAFA, there were immediate results from the inception of our relationship. It’s been a very hands-on partnership.” Material World New York 2005 In addition to helping with seminars and educational tracks, AAFA also helped shape the Continued from Material World page 1 Pantone also will provide books and information show and delivered its message to members, Material World will get very good direction in terms on trend direction, he added. which include many of the leading forces in the of what is going to happen and be important for Technology programs will educate attendees industry. “They really helped identify what the the season on the fabric side as well. It’s not on opportunities for the sewn products industry, show was about, and promoted it very aggressively only about having great exhibitors in fabrics and von Gal noted. ”It’s a very diverse program that throughout their membership.” trimmings, it’s also having very strong and positive touches on the major technology issues and AAFA president Kevin Burke and his staff have direction too.” solutions that are enabling and enhancing the been particularly infl uential in helping with both Regarding future trend direction, Material World entire sewn products industry and related supply attendee and exhibitor contacts, von Gal noted. New York will provide input from Pantone on the chains.” The upcoming Material World New York event color side and other leading forecasters such as Besides its alliance partner, AAFA, Material represents the ninth edition of Material World, WGSN, he said. World New York has the support of numerous including seven previous events in Miami Beach. Because the trend area allows visitors to textile and fabric organizations. “People attending are always looking for new and interact with the newest trends that are illustrated “The most important textile and garment different things and ideas, so it’s critical we take in the fabrics exhibited in the show, “Many people producing associations and organizations are steps to keep changing too.” start there, and then work the show from what endorsing Material World,” declared Webb-Moore. they’ve seen from that area,” he noted. Firms like “So we really have unanimous support throughout

Future show dates for Material World events Jacob K. Javits Convention Center, New York, NY Africa Joins Show’s Global Roster The growing international roster at Material World Material World New York also will feature pavilions 2006: September 26-28, 2006 New York has been expanded to include a special Africa including Hong Kong, Macau and Taiwan, and attendees 2007: September 25-27, 2007 pavilion, featuring fabrics, textiles, apparel and services will fi nd the most comprehensive presentation of 2008: April 8-10, 2008 available in sub-Saharan Africa. suppliers throughout the Americas and the Caribbean. October 14-16, 2008 Urban Expositions and the American Apparel & The Africa Pavilion also will present a free seminar 2009: March 24-26, 2009 Footwear Association (AAFA), which are presenting on Tuesday, September 26 from 2:45 p.m. - 3:45 p.m., October, 6-8, 2009 the event, reported more than 40 textile and apparel highlighting the special benefi ts the countries offer. 2010: March 16-18, 2010 companies from Africa will come together for one of the The discussion, “Brand Africa presents: What’s New many global pavilions at the Jacob K. Javits Convention – Sourcing Apparel in Africa,” will be moderated by Dr. October 26-28, 2010 Center, September 26-28, 2006. Bill Releford, Jr., president and ceo of Made in Africa, The Africa Pavilion, organized by Trade Links, LLC, and a primary force behind the continent’s popular Material World and Technology Solutions which promotes African products and services in the “Butta” brand. Miami Beach Convention Center, Miami Beach, FL U.S., will showcase fabric, apparel and a range of Releford and panelists will explore the latest changes services from countries including Botswana, Ethiopia, in Africa’s apparel supply chain, and benefi ts available Material World, Lesotho, Kenya, Ghana, Cameroon, Sierra Leone, to companies sourcing in sub-Saharan Africa today. SPESA Expo & Technology Solutions Swaziland, Madagascar and others. Admission to the hour-long program is free and May 8-10, 2007 As the premier global sourcing, fabric, trim and requires no pre-registration, with seating fi rst-come, trend trade event for the sewn products industries, fi rst-served. Material World & Technology Solutions Material World New York will draw fabric and trimming Besides its comprehensive exhibitor base, Material May 20-22, 2008 suppliers, garment manufacturers and representatives World New York also features a cutting-edge trend

Dates with Material Interest from across the world. pavilion showcasing the latest colors, textures and In addition to the Africa Pavilion, other countries fabrics for fall-winter 2007-2008 from across the world, a participating in the upcoming New York edition will full-scale educational program and special presentation include China, Korea, Thailand, India, Pakistan, Japan, of home furnishing fabric providers. 2 • MATERIAL WORLD Bangladesh, Morocco and others. YourYour PartnerPartner forfor CollectionCollection DevelopmentDevelopment

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www.lectra.com Lectra North America Atlanta - New York - Los Angeles - Mexico City - Montreal - Toronto [email protected] 1-877-4LECTRA ADVERTISEMENT Major Endorsements for Material World

As an offi cial event of the American Apparel & Footwear Association, Material The National Textile Association, a not-for-profi t trade association of companies World is endorsed and supported by industry associations like: that knit or weave fabrics, dye, print or fi nish fabrics in the U.S. or supply fi bers, The American Apparel Producers’ Network, the international network of sourcing yarns or other services to the American textile industry. www.nationaltextile.org. managers, producers and suppliers of apparel since 1981. www.usawear.org. [TC]² is a recognized provider of solutions for the soft goods industry specializing The Garment Industry Development Corporation (GIDC), a non-profi t organization in technology development and supply chain improvement. Its initiatives include established in 1984 by the City of New York, the Garment Workers’ Union and the investigation and demonstration of supporting technologies; education, training and New York Skirt & Sportswear Association to strengthen New York City’s apparel consulting services to strategically and tactically implement business practices; and industry. www.gidc.org. technology development, specializing in 3-D body scanning, shape analysis and The Textile Distributors Association, the national body representing textile measurement extraction software. www.tc2.com distributors. TDA members supply fabrics and related accessories to clothing Other endorsers include: manufacturers, curtain manufacturers, soft furnishing, and furniture manufacturers The National Council of Textile Organizations USAID, the United States Agency and retailers. They sell both imported and locally manufactured fabrics. for International development Daimler Chrysler, WGSN and Pantone

TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 26 *Unless otherwise indicated, programs are free and admission will be on a fi rst-come, fi rst-served basis. Material World Headliner Event The Doneger Group presents: AAFA’S Supplier Resource Committee (SRC) presents: Autumn-winter 2007 Big Picture Forecast Product Lifecycle Management (PLM): Integrating People, Processes 1:00 p.m.-2:00 p.m. Computer Generated Solutions presents: and Information Speaker: Jamie Ross, creative director, Doneger Creative Services Increase Productivity in a Collaborative Environment 8:00 a.m. – 9:30 a.m. 10:45 a.m.-11:30 a.m. Taiwan Textile Federation presents: Speaker: To be announced. Case Study Presentations: Taiwan’s Global Logistic Performance • Business Management Systems, Inc. Presents: 1:00 p.m.-2:30 p.m. Trend Union presents: The Donna Karan Company, LLC, Speaker: Justin Huang, secretary general, Taiwan Textile Federation “Sculptures,” The War on Details – Color, Fabric, Pattern and Style Cindy Payero, vice president, DK/DKNY Systems Trends for fall-winter 2007-2008 • ENOVIA/MatrixOne Presents: QVC, Inc., Surge Ghosh, Ph.D., New Generation Computing, Inc. presents: 11:30 a.m.-12:30 p.m. manager product fl ow merchandising Key Features, Benefi ts and Return on Investment of Internet Based Speaker: Emmanuelle Linard, manager, Edelkoort, Inc. Trend Union Schedule • New Generation Computing Presents: A|X Armani Exchange, End to End Product Lifecycle Management and Global Sourcing – a forecast service based in Paris, founded in 1985 by Li Edelkoort Michelle Puopolo, director of preproduction Systems and ten design professionals. Moderator: Rick Ludolph, president, Productive Solutions, LLC 2:00 p.m.-2:45 p.m. Admission: $50 in advance, $75 onsite. Visit www.material-world.com Speakers: Fred Isenberg, vice president of sales, Neville Bean Design presents: to pre-register. New Generation Computing Trends Forecasting Demystifi ed Mark Burstein, director of retail sales, New Generation Computing Taking the Creative Leap to Fall 2007 Pantone View Colour Planner – Winter 2007-08 1:30 p.m.-2:30 p.m. – Metamorphosis Brand Africa presents: Speaker: Neville Bean 10:00 a.m.-11:00 a.m. What’s New – Sourcing Apparel in Africa Speaker: Tod Schulman, vice president fashion & home, Pantone 2:45 p.m.-3:45 p.m. GCS Software, LLC presents: Moderator: Dr. Bill Releford Jr., U.S. president & ceo, Made In Africa Choosing a New System for Your Business Requires Careful PTC presents: Consideration and a Disciplined Approach How to Leverage PLM to Achieve Competitive Advantage 2:00 p.m.-2:45 p.m. 11:30 a.m.-12:15 p.m. WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 27 Speaker: Myron Melnyk, Apptech Consulting Speaker: Brion Carroll, vice president of research & development, PTC AAFA presents: Port Security – The Questions and the Answers AAFA presents: AAFA presents: 8:30 a.m.-9:30 a.m. Trade Challenges and Opportunities – What You Need to Know The Major Duty Savings Benefi ts of Customs First Sale ‘Cost Shifting’ Speakers: Jonathan Gold, policy analyst, Offi ce of Policy and 2:00 p.m.–3:00 p.m. for Apparel and Footwear Importers Planning, U.S. Customs and Border Protection; Ron Marotta, executive Speakers: Chandri Navarro-Bowman, partner, Hogan & Hartson LLP 11:30 a.m.-12:30 p.m. vice president, NYK Logistics; Al Thompson, vice president for global Jonathan Fee, partner, Alston & Bird LLP Speaker: Chuck Crowley, global customs law partner, Sandler, Travis & supply chain policy, Retail Industry Leaders Association Moderator: Stephen Lamar, senior vice president, AAFA Rosenberg, PA. Moderator: Stephen Lamar, senior vice president, AAFA Admission: $50 in advance, $75 onsite. Visit www.material-world.com Admission: $50 in advance, $75 onsite. Visit www.material-world.com to pre-register. Tradecard presents: to pre-register. The Future of Global Sourcing Cotton Incorporated presents: 12:30 p.m.-1:15 p.m. Promostyl presents: An Overview of Color and Fabric for the Home 2008 Moderator: Kurt Cavano, ceo, TradeCard Autumn-winter 2007 3:00 p.m-4:00 p.m. 10:00 a.m.-11:00 a.m. Speaker: Dana Poor, home product trend forecaster, Speaker: Jeanine Pesce, trend consultant, Promostyl Americas Cotton Incorporated. For more information visit www.material -world.com or call 800.318.2238 4 • MATERIAL WORLD

ADVERTISEMENT New Directions for Color Technology Solutions: Innovation the Common Pantone, Inc., a worldwide leader in and attendees the advanced direction on color communication and color technology, color and trends,” reported Knaus. will be the offi cial color partner of upcoming “Pantone is excited to lend its expertise Thread at Material World editions of Material World New York, Miami to ensure that the Trend Pavilion, one of the Beach as well as future editions, reported most important elements to Material World, New technological innovations continue to deliver signifi cant impact Urban Expositions, producer and manager refl ects the latest trends in fabric and color to textile, fi ber, apparel and sourcing industries across the globe, helping of Material World. that attendees are considering for their reduce costs and increase suppliers’ speed to market. Working directly with Material World sewn concepts,” noted Tod Schulman, vice In just a few years, Technology Solutions, the IT component of Material creative director Kevin Knaus, Pantone president of the fashion, home and interiors World, has become a strategic venue for both technology providers and will develop seasonal color directions and division at Pantone, Inc. “Our partnership buyers in the apparel, footwear and other sewn products industries, themes and color forecasts to be presented will create a visual representation of the noted Tim von Gal, executive director of Material World. in the show’s special Trend Pavilions, starting color palettes that are complementary to Offering a dedicated exhibit space and special educational conference with Material World New York’s September each other and provoke creative thinking track, the fast-growing event exposes guests to new solutions, keeping 26-28, 2006 edition. among the Material World audience.” them up-to-date with the rapidly-changing information technology “As the leading fabric and sourcing Schulman will present a seminar on marketplace, he explained. event, we are extremely pleased to align Tuesday, September 26, 2006 from 10 a.m.- “Technology Solutions exhibits and seminars comprise a wide range with the world’s leading color authority. No 11:00 a.m., entitled “Metamorphosis,” the of industry-specifi c solutions for design and visual merchandising, other company is more closely associated to Pantone View Color Planner for fall-winter line and merchandise planning, product development and lifecycle all aspects of color than Pantone,” declared 2007, as part of Material World New York’s management, enterprise resource planning, supply chain management, Tim von Gal, president, Material World. Educational Conference. global trade management, product identifi cation and more,” said Rick Knaus also will collaborate with Pantone With over 40 years of experience, Ludolph, president and founder of Productive Solutions, an AAFA on direction for the fall-winter 2007-2008 Pantone Inc. is a international authority in Supplier Resource Division member. season, as well as the development of a color communication and color technology In addition to IT professionals, exhibits and seminars at the show color card, which attendees and exhibitors for the graphic design, printing, publishing, will attract a cross-section of attendees seeking the latest innovations can purchase at the show. fashion, home furnishings, interiors and in technology, including top executives, fi nancial, operations, product “Material World has always been industrial design industries. development, supply chain, logistics, and other managers and end- committed as a leader in giving our exhibitors users, von Gal reported.

6 • MATERIAL WORLD ADVERTISEMENT Gain Speed to Market and Visibility Speed to market is the way for apparel the world due to a number of factors, such as political with several hundred years of collective experience. manufacturers to gain market share and win in a climate, trade negotiations, price and quotas. NGC continually studies the marketplace through its hyper-competitive business climate. To satisfy today’s “The logistics are daunting,” Isenberg said. “How customers, leadership in industry organizations and demanding consumers, brands and retailers must can companies control all these SKUs in all these focus on understanding the unique challenges of the deliver more SKUs, styles, colors and sizes – faster and factories all over the world in a time-compressed industry, according to Isenberg. more effi ciently than ever before. And they must also manner? NGC solutions allow its customers to be more NGC plans to exhibit its signifi cant enhancements maintain real-time visibility and quality control through effi cient, drive down costs, reduce errors, and improve throughout its 2006 SQL Series suite at Material World every step from concept to customer. the ability to execute their brand.” New York at Booth 913. For more information, visit Leading companies such as VF Corporation, Carter’s, NGC’s executive team and senior management had www.ngcsoftware.com. Casual Male Retail Group, A|X Armani Exchange, extensive experience in the apparel industry prior to NGC, Maggie London and others turn to the technology 7 • MATERIAL WORLD and industry expertise of New Generation Computing (NGC), a division of Amer- ican Software (NASDAQ: AMSWA), according to Fred Isenberg, vice president of sales for New Generation Computing, Inc. For 25 years, NGC has provided apparel enterprise resource planning (ERP) systems combined with the industry’s most complete, end-to-end product life cycle management and global sourcing solutions. NGC solutions enable its customers to deliver the right products to the right places at the right times, with higher quality than ever before, Isenberg asserted. NGC’s software solutions cover the entire spectrum of the apparel supply chain, including e-PDM (Product Lifecycle Management), Red Horse™ (Enterprise Resource Planning) and e-SPS™ (Global Sourcing). Together these products comprise NGC’s SQL Series, the industry’s only standalone, end-to-end suite of solu- tions for the apparel and sewn goods industries. “We’ve put together the industry’s leading suite of integrated products, from design all the way through to sourcing and order ful- • able fi llment,” Isenberg said. “As a result, NGC offers Fashion LifecycleFashion Management™ The product lifecycle management system that’s fully one-stop shopping for the enabled for the fashion industry, from the leader in fashion automation systems. most important aspects of operating and executing Fully for Fashion. This is the one that actually works the way fashion works, and the way you’re used to your business today.” working. Built from the beginning with fashion design and manufacturing in mind, Gerber FLM fully manages The business chall- your fashion product lifecycle. If you’re new to product lifecycle management, nobody knows and serves enges facing brands and the fashion industry better, or in more ways, whether for apparel, footwear, accessories, home decor or retailers are more intense ™ ™ than ever before. Com- furniture, than Gerber. If you’re already a customer, FLM easily integrates with WebPDM , AccuMark and pared to a decade ago, all the Gerber software you already use. In fact, we pioneered Product Development Management (PDM) for brands are producing ten- fashion in 1992. Now we integrate the entire product lifecycle like no other industry partner can. fold the number of produc ts, while faced with tighter Call us to enable lifecycle management for your fashion products: 800-826-3243, ext. 3851 deadlines and the need to source products around www.gerbertechnology.com ADVERTISEMENT The Fiber With Visions Consumers now have access to a new fi ber that sales and marketing manager, apparel. is “Cool, Smart, Clean and Easy – CoolVisions™, The “CoolVisions™ dyeable polypropylene fi ber Fiber with Visions.” reduces inventories compared to solution- CoolVisions™ dyeable polypropylene fi ber is a dyed polypropylene fi bers and provides revolutionary new fi ber for the apparel market created new options for fashion apparel.” by FiberVisions, one of the world’s largest producers The ability to dye polypropylene in the greige fabric chemical inertness, and excellent thermal insulation of polyolefi n staple fi bers. CoolVisions™, www.cool- stage enables signifi cant improvement in production properties.” visions.com, is the industry’s premier disperse-dyeable times and speed to market, and the cost associated CoolVisions™ processes effi ciently on equipment polypropylene fi ber, created to address the needs of the with inventory for low volume, slow moving and currently used in the textile industry. The yarn spinning, manufacturer and the desires of the consumer. obsolete solution dyed colors is eliminated. Benefi ts for knitting and weaving procedures for CoolVisions™ are The CoolVisions™ brand name refl ects the retailers include faster speed to market and consumer similar to current pigmented polypropylene products, company’s name, FiberVisions, and its focus on satisfaction. the company reported. the future of polyolefi n fi bers through innovation. “FiberVisions is in a wonderful position with the Steven Lucier, president of Deer Creek Fabrics Inc., FiberVisions is a global leader, maintaining a strong launch of what many perceive as the original (and best) noted, “Deer Creek Fabrics has been working with reputation for quality, innovation and customer service. performance fi ber,” stated Peter Lucier, vice president, polypropylene for nearly 30 years and CoolVisions™ The company has manufacturing sites in the U.S., sales and marketing of Startex, a division of Starensier is by far the most exciting new development. This, Europe and Asia, according to Jim Pepper, global Inc. “(CoolVisions™ has) many of the key features combined with the ability to match customers’ colors business director. covered with performance features: price, ease of care and deliver fi nished fabrics in a timely manner, makes it CoolVisions™ dyeable polypropylene fi bers offer a and now, fashion.” a wonderful addition to our polypropylene offerings.” vast array of inherent benefi ts and properties of traditional CoolVisions™ dyeable polypropylene fi bers also Staple fi ber for ring spinning is currently available, polypropylene fi bers: lightweight and comfortable, with provides better chemical and stain resistance when and development activities also are underway for air moisture management, durability, thermal insulation compared to other fi bers, the company reported. jet yarn spinning and fi lament products. Performance and stain resistance. Unlike traditional polypropylene “The fi ber is lighter, providing better coverage with enhancements such as antimicrobial properties are fi ber, CoolVisions™ is dyeable with disperse dyes, and less weight and fi ber content,” reported Dr. Prashant also being developed. its unique design results in a soft hand. Desai, director of business technology. “The benefi ts of CoolVisions™ is a trademark of FiberVisions, L.P., “CoolVisions™ is well-suited for any lifestyle as it is polypropylene fi ber include minimal moisture pickup, a subsidiary of FiberVisions Corporation, Wilmington, easy care, easy wear,” reported Susan McGreal, national superior moisture transport, inherent and permanent Delaware, U.S.A. Booth #313 at Material World.

8 • MATERIAL WORLD One-Stop Shop for Tech Solutions RLM helps the fast-paced changes And the fi rm works hand-in-hand of the apparel industry by providing with clients in each step of the process. clients with cutting edge Technology “Our major competitive advantage is solutions. RLM’s services include custom experience and our integration is all application development, hardware and done with our own internally developed software outsourcing, business consulting software, so there are no third parties”. and superior customer service. “The real benefi t of technology today RLM, rlmci.com, is a full service, is you can support clients remotely as tech consulting fi rm headquartered in long as they have Internet access,” Lynn New Jersey with subsidiary offi ces in San continued. “One of the greatest benefi ts Jose, Costa Rica. The company believes is that our system runs off of one server software solutions must not restrict the platform, so it’s easy for us to support business process by making it conform clients, because there are not multiple to rigid software requirements. “When a servers running in different locations process does change, the software must around the world.” be able to accommodate the change or The company also develops web new process,” said Andy Lynn, director stores for the industry, a fast-rising of marketing. trend, he stressed. Lynn noted RLM Founded by Ron Lynn, ceo, and works closely with clients to ensure *O
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SFTFSWFE ADVERTISEMENT End-to-End Apparel Solutions Gerber Technology, www.gerbertechnology.com, is global brands and retailers that own operations or faster than ever before,” Rivera said. “They have to be a the industry leader in providing innovative, end-to-end source overseas. We provide solutions and support leader, do more with less cost and be more productive. solutions to the world’s apparel and fl exible materials wherever they are doing business,” said Rivera. We enable companies to operate faster and more industries. Its innovative software, computerized At Material World, Gerber will showcase its apparel- effi ciently in today’s highly-competitive environment.” manufacturing systems, supplies and service are and retail-specifi c software solutions, and feature its By providing tools to manage product design, fully-integrated for maximum customer support and Fashion Lifecycle Management™ suite, a fashion- development, lifecycle management and production, fl exibility, the fi rm stated. specifi c PLM solution which integrates an enterprise- Gerber Technology makes it easier for designers, “The scope and scale of our global resources wide, colla-borative workfl ow engine with WebPDM, the manufacturers, contractors and retailers to manage enable us to deliver real value. Focused on helping most widely accepted market-leading PDM solution. complex requirements. our customers win in their markets, Gerber Technology “The marketplace today requires companies to work MW Technology Solution Booth #919. pursues new ways to drive 9 • MATERIAL WORLD innovation and deliver world- class products and services,” said Bob Rivera, executive director, global marketing and key accounts. As manufacturers and VISIT THE retailers seek faster res- ponse times and lower Africa Pavilion AT costs, the need for advanced technology and secure communication methods has increased. Gerber Material World New York provides the industry with tools to manage all aspects of product design, develop- ment and production. SEPTEMBER 26-28, 2006 Gerber Technology en- tered the market 38 years JACOB JAVITS CONVENTION CENTER ago, with break-through NEW YORK, NY automation technology and has since developed add- itional solutions for product development, life-cycle :::: SKILLEDSKILLED WORKERSWORKERS FROMFROM 1010 COUNTRIESCOUNTRIES ININ AFRICAAFRICA READYREADY TOTO management, conceptual PRODUCE HIGH-QUALITY GARMENTS TO MEET YOUR NEEDS. design, technical design and automated cutting solutions. “R&D has played a :::: DUTY-FREEDUTY-FREE APPARELAPPAREL ANDAND TEXTILETEXTILE CATEGORIESCATEGORIES UNDERUNDER AGOAAGOA major role at Gerber since COVERING THOUSANDS OF GARMENT STYLES. the fi rm was fi rst started. Our founder, Joe Gerber, :::: FREEFREE EDUCATIONALEDUCATIONAL SEMINARSEMINAR ONON THETHE LATESTLATEST ININ SOURCINGSOURCING ININ AFRICAAFRICA believed it was important SCHEDULED FOR TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 26 FROM 2:45 – 3:45 P.M. to be forward-thinking and innovative. We invest heavily in improvements to existing :::: SPECIALSPECIAL TRADETRADE SHOWSHOW PROMOTIONALPROMOTIONAL EVENTS,EVENTS, RECEPTIONSRECEPTIONS ANDAND GIFTS.GIFTS. products and look toward what the future marketplace will need,” Rivera explained. Gerber’s products have COME TO NEW YORK AND changed the way design and COME TO NEW YORK AND manufacturing is performed around the globe, having Write Your Orders in Africa!™ developed revolutionary “industry fi rst” products for nearly four decades. Gerber Technology, a business unit of Gerber Scientifi c, a $530 million company traded on the New York stock exchange, has regional offi ces, agents and distributors in 125 countries, serving more than 17,500 customers through seven Customer Solutions Centers on six continents. “We are well-positioned throughout THE AFRICA PAVILION HAS BEEN ORGANIZED BY TRADE LINKS, LLC. the globe and able to work FOR MORE INFORMATION, PLEASE CONTACT 202.462.1339 with many U.S.-based and OR VISIT WWW.AFRICA-PAVILION.COM ADVERTISEMENT Cut Costs, Improve Productivity “Globalization has signifi cantly impacted the manner stages of product development and manufacturing. context of permanently renewing collections. Providing in which fashion companies conduct business,” “There is an incompatible notion happening right continuous decision-making support, it rationalizes asserted David Rode, president, Lectra Americas. now in the fashion industry. Brands and retailers are and improves the reliability of product development “Globalization has the potential to offer companies being forced to improve margins by lowering their overall processes, and assures the synchronization and extensive opportunities for product development and per unit production cost while increasing the number traceability of information fl ows. Built on a 100 percent manufacturing worldwide. More than ever, fashion of collections they introduce. These two elements of Web-based platform, it optimizes the collaborative companies are pursuing multiple solutions to reduce today’s fashion business are at odds. We believe that modes used between contractors and suppliers. costs and improve competitiveness by improving design the only way to achieve success given this paradox is by “The fashion industry is under pressure to manage and manufacturing productivity.” optimizing the use of technology. We believe Lectra is at all information and processes related to collections and Lectra is a key player in providing solutions the heart of the solution.” products — from design to development, manufacturing for company’s biggest needs. “Lectra supports its Rode admits that having a global sourcing model that and marketing — in a strategic and transversal customers in the transformation of their business enables companies to lower manufacturing costs while manner,” said Rode. “Brands, retailers, manufacturers, models and their technological evolutions by providing offering a more innovative and frequent introduction of subcontractors and suppliers face an increasingly fully-adaptable solutions that help them develop their collections is daunting. “In this time of change, Lectra complex and global environment, a growing number creativity, cut costs, improve productivity, and satisfy puts its market and business expertise at the service of of collaborators, product lines, and the increasingly consumer demand for quality,” said Rode. “We do this all its customers. Lectra’s worldwide presence and more rapid renewal of collections. Fashion companies must by offering a complete, integrated set of design and than 30 years of experience enables the company to maintain total control over their extended supply chains product development tools that enable our customers provide adapted, communicative technology solutions while collaborating on the design, product engineering to effectively collaborate with their deign and product that organize business processes and facilitates and manufacturing phases. development teams on a virtual worldwide basis.” participation across the global supply-chain.” “Lectra’s solutions allow designers to focus on Lectra currently serves customers in over 100 Lectra’s fashion design solutions are the most widely design, to give free reign to their imagination by testing countries worldwide, with representatives in 62 used in the industry, according to Rode. more ideas, more color variants, and capitalizing on countries and major technology centers in France, the A recent introduction to the company is its new existing data within the company. The designers’ ideas United States, Mexico, China and Turkey. Fashion PLM solution. Specifi cally developed for can be converted rapidly and effi ciently into realistic Rode adds that technology is essential for fashion the fashion markets, Lectra’s PLM offering allows simulations resulting in the creation of innovative companies to boost their competitive stance in the fashion companies to shorten lead times and reduce designs and fi nal collections.” market, and Lectra provides technical solutions for all costs associated with the conception of products in a MW Technology Solution Booth #634.

10 • MATERIAL WORLD Leveraging the Value of Technology Computer Generated Solutions (CGS) “It’s one thing to put a technology product is a leading provider of system integration, in a customer’s hands, but if they don’t software, training and managed services understand how to use that technology to businesses and government agencies in the business, it just doesn’t work.” worldwide. Headquartered in New York City, CGS “We specialize not only in technology, maintains a presence in 29 locations but also in (supplying) the knowledge of around the globe and is able to bring the business,” said Paul Magel, senior companies worldwide new technological vice president, Computer Generated applications. Solutions (CGS). CGS plans to expand this global CGS enables organizations to adapt footprint on the industry and move further and implement advanced technologies in the supply chain and one place they throughout their enterprise by delivering can discuss these issues is at Material expert, industry-specifi c solutions. By World. Product life cycle management integrating with clients’ core business will be forefront in CGS’s discussion. operations, CGS offers a broad array of “PLM is something we added over services including e-business consulting the past 24 months,” Magel said. “We’re and application development, ERP and getting a lot of traction on it. Whatever CRM solutions, system integration, we’re developing and installing, it is fully learning services, helpdesk and profes- integrated within our suite of products.” sional staffi ng. And this gives CGS a big advantage, x PDM, PLM, ERP, EDI The BlueCherry Enterprise Software as Magel noted there is a demand in the x Order Management team comprises professionals from the marketplace for seamless integration x Sales Force Automation apparel, footwear, accessories and home and full lifecycle technology systems. furnishings industries. The company has “Customers who partner with CGS x Warehouse Management a keen understanding of what’s working know that as their business grows, we x Collaborative Software in the marketplace and what’s on the have other modules that can help them.” x B2B e-commerce forefront of its customers’ minds by MW Technology Solution Booth #949. x Production Control communicating and collaborating with x Raw Material Tracking hundreds of customers on a monthly x Cutting Systems basis. x Financials AR, AP, GL “We provide them with software solutions to help their business, and x Custom Design provide the training and implementation x Outsourcing is available at a low monthly per user cost services so they can marry the business x Java Based knowledge and leverage the value of x Application Training those technology products,” said Magel. x Project Consulting For Sales call (973) 244-8383 ext. 38 ADVERTISEMENT Financial Supply Chain Solutions

In the last 10 to 20 years, companies have focused it’s a global trade platform that we deliver in 60 to 90 “We’ve taken separate companies, which have on improving operational effi ciency by integrating days that combines physical and fi nancial processes typically been at arms length, and integrated cross- the different functions within their operations, trying to enable four things: supply chain agility, accelerated company processes,” said Gordon. “By fully integrating to leverage technology to run leaner and grow faster, growth, increased operating and gross margins, and retailers, manufacturers, and textile suppliers we enable according to Marshall Gordon, senior vice president of shared visibility to the multiple parties involved in a virtual verticality, enabling supply chains to operate TradeCard. typical sourcing transaction as it moves from purchase seamlessly as though they were a single fi rm.” “Leaders continue to simultaneously improve order, through processing, logistics, customs, and And TradeCard’s effi ciency is seen in its results — processes while increasing their ability to respond to ultimate receipt. the company grows at 70 plus percent a year, according changes in the business environment,” he said. “An added benefi t that parallels pure supply chain to Gordon. And TradeCard expects to build on this more In the supply chain, TradeCard helps companies effi ciency is the reduced cost our clients achieve for at Material World. integrate physical and fi nancial processes. Gordon accounts payable and accounts receivable fi nancing. “Material World has become a must-attend event,” describes TradeCard as a platform: as a star diagram, The same visibility and transaction automation that Gordon said. Gordon anticipates two major topics TradeCard would be in the middle, the buyer and the our clients seek is valuable to the over thirty fi nancial to come up at the show this year. The fi rst will involve seller being nodes on the star, and various parties institution partners on the TradeCard platform- leveraging CAFTA and achieving parity in the region like logistics companies, buying agents, inspection increased transaction visibility means reduced risk with Asia from a fi nancial supply chain perspective, fi rms who participate in a transaction would also be which results in reduced borrowing rates. It’s common and the second will involve the continued discussion connected and able to see what’s going on based upon to see a TradeCard client reduce their cost of factoring about improving speed and agility within the supply what the buyer allows them to see. receivables by over 30 percent and their cost of issuing chain. “What we are, what a client is buying, is the unique Letters of Credit by over percent,” said Gordon. “Anyone can increase their business agility,” combination of hosted technology that drives down There are over 2,000 TradeCard members or clients, Gordon adds. “I can hire fi ve times as many people cost by automating sourcing and supply chain visibility, predominantly in the apparel and footwear industries, and work around the clock to achieve this if cost was global trade experts in over 40 countries to enable your including JC Penney on the retail side and Nike on not an issue. But, costs are an issue in our industry; so sourcing strategy, and integrated fi nancial services to the brand side. TradeCard’s members are in over improving agility while decreasing costs is the goal. This minimize the amount of cash it takes to support your 40 countries, and these clients will move about $6 is exactly what TradeCard delivers.” supply chain — all wrapped together.” said Gordon. billion worth of product and payments across the MW Technology Solution Booth #937. “There is no software to buy or maintain in your location, TradeCard network in 2006.

11 • MATERIAL WORLD

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WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 14, 2006 17 WWD.COM Tracy Reese Inks Bag License Paulson Plans to Push China Jennifer Hirshlag Tracy to produce its belt line under license. racy Reese is getting into the “Our company has grown To Reform Currency on Visit Tbag business. The designer has a lot over the last 10 years,” signed a license with Daniel M. said Friedman. “But one of the By Kristi Ellis Friedman & Associates to create businesses we’ve been hop- her fi rst full collection of satchels. ing to try to enter is the luxury WASHINGTON — Treasury Secretary Henry Paulson Jr. said Reese sent a teaser of two business, being able to offer Thursday that he will urge China to adapt more flexible currency handbag styles down the runway items that would sell to retail- exchange rates when he visits Beijing next week. on Sunday when she unveiled ers like Neiman Marcus, Saks “I believe that if China doesn’t move quickly to continue re- her spring collection during New Fifth Avenue, Henri Bendel and forming its economy, it will face a backlash from other inter- York Fashion Week. The complete Barneys New York. We think national economic stakeholders,” Paulson said during his fi rst assortment of bags will be ready Tracy is incredible and her public speech here since taking the cabinet post in July. “This to retail for fall 2007. Handbags product is special, and we like backlash will not benefi t any of us.” represent Reese’s second acces- that we will be the fi rst to create China’s fi xed currency and trade policies artifi cially lower the sories category, following a shoe A Tracy it. As long as we follow Tracy’s price of Chinese goods by 15 to 40 percent relative to the dollar line she creates in-house that is Reese bag distribution, I think we can be and act as an export subsidy, according to many economists. This now going into its third season. on the successful with it.” puts U.S. companies at a disadvantage, leading to job losses and “We’ve been dabbling in ac- designer’s Reese’s apparel collection a bilateral trade defi cit that hit a record $202 billion last year. cessories, like handbags and spring 2007 now sells in Neiman Marcus, China has raised the value of its currency slightly, to change the belts,” said Reese, “but this is runway. Nordstrom, Bergdorf Goodman peg of the yuan to a basket of currencies instead of just the dollar. the fi rst time we’ll have a full and Anthropologie, among other It raised the yuan another 1 percent this year, the currency appre- collection. It’s exciting for me rich colors, beautiful linings and specialty retailers. ciating 3.4 percent, but these are seen as symbolic actions. because it helps me round out custom hardware. Usefulness is Friedman said he expects Paulson, a former head of Goldman Sachs, indicated the Bush the look. It’s what you’re always also very important to me.” the handbag line, which will administration will oppose moves in Congress to penalize China wanting to do [when you start an Daniel M. Friedman, chair- offer fi ve collections a year, to by erecting trade barriers. apparel business].” man and president of the subsid- comprise about 50 styles. Retail “We will not heed the siren songs of protectionism and isola- Reese said the collection iary of Steven Madden Ltd., said prices are expected to average at tionism,” he said, criticizing antitrade and anti-China sentiment will glean its inspiration from he was thinking of opportunities $350 to $700. The collection also here and abroad. her feminine and sophisticated for the fi rm to broaden its retail will include small leather goods He acknowledged that the roots of the protectionist movement ready-to-wear, and will place an reach when he fi rst contacted and belts, at opening prices at in many countries stem from job losses associated with China’s emphasis on timeless designs. Reese. The company, in addition around $100. Friedman added fast-growing economy, which many critics say gets a boost because “I don’t want the bags to to creating private label acces- the plan is to follow the Tracy of low wages and few worker rights. be just cute and trendy,” said sories, also works with Betsey Reese handbag introduction “This widespread and growing resistance [to China’s growth] is Reese. “These should be heir- Johnson to create the designer’s with accessories for her diffu- not surprising because the benefi ts of competition, while signifi - loom bags. I want them to have licensed handbags, small leather sion Plenty by Tracy Reese line cant, are not spread evenly and competition can create winners quality, with wonderful leathers, goods and belts, and with Ellen for late fall 2007 or spring 2008. and losers,” Paulson said. “Protectionist policies do not work and the collateral damage from these policies is high.” China faces several “critical, immediate challenges” as it Hartmarx Building Bridge to Women’s Apparel This widespread and growing resistance“ [to China’s growth] is not By Georgia Lee executive vice president. Gifford founded Sweater.com in 1998. The surprising because the benefi ts of omen’s apparel is expanding in the tradition- original e-commerce business failed with the Wally male-dominated world of Hartmarx. dot-com bust, but the company retained the name competition, while signifi cant, are not Hartmarx Corp., based in Chicago and known and Web site as the parent of the One Girl Who… for men’s suits under the Hart Schaffner Marx line of luxury and novelty sweaters that was spread evenly and competition can and Hickey-Freeman brands and several men’s launched in 2002. casual and golf lines, acquired Sweater.com, the The diverse knitwear collection features 120 create winners and losers. Los Angeles knitwear producer of the brand One to 200 items a year, including basics, novelty Girl Who…, on Aug. 29. sweaters, T-shirts and leather jackets with knit — Treasury Secretary” Henry Paulson Jr. The acquisition is part of an evolving strat- components. At wholesale, bridge prices range egy for the manufacturer, which bought two from $22 for a basic knit T-shirt to $175 for an moves to stabilize its economy, Paulson said. other women’s lines — Simply Blue, a denim appliquéd leather jacket. With 1,000 retail ac- “A much more fl exible, market-driven exchange rate along with producer of the Christopher Blue line last year, counts, the company cultivates specialty store a more nimble, self-determined monetary policy are key ingredi- and Exclusively Misook, a bridge knitwear line, loyalty by giving them exclusivity (not selling to ents to stable and sustainable noninfl ationary growth,” he said at in 2004. discounters), offering special the Treasury Department. “Accordingly, maintaining and relying Women’s apparel sales, now order and reorders and jump- on an overly rigid exchange rate and outdated administrative con- 20 percent of Hartmarx’s total, ing on trends early. trols increases the risk of boom and bust cycles.” are outpacing men’s and could The specialty store channel Paulson’s predecessor John Snow began to pursue a tougher grow to 30 percent, possibly was a big part of Sweater.com’s stance with China before he left offi ce. However, Snow became through acquisitions, said chief appeal for Hartmarx. a target of criticism for stopping short of labeling the country a executive offi cer Homi Patel. He “It’s a more stable retail en- “currency manipulator,” which could potentially lead to trade is especially interested in com- vironment,” said Patel, who sanctions at the World Trade Organization. panies with a creative approach, added that the stability offset Sen. Charles Schumer (D., N.Y.), who has co-sponsored legis- like Sweater.com. Sweater.com the challenge in women’s ap- lation with Sen. Lindsey Graham (R., S.C.) that would impose a will contribute $15 million in parel of providing customers 27.5 percent tariff on all Chinese imports if China does not let the sales to Hartmarx’s total volume with more innovation and fash- yuan’s value increase in relation to the dollar, said in a statement, of about $600 million. ion than the more stolid men’s “When I spoke to Hank Paulson last night, we discussed how im- “We have a formula [for ac- market required. portant his trip is in the fi ght to get China to play fair. Today in his quisitions] to let entrepreneurs One Girl Who… targets a 30- speech, he said if China does not move, it does so at its own peril. be entrepreneurs,” Patel said. to 55-year-old customer, and No truer words were spoken. I hope the Chinese were listening.” “We can add value, and help invests as much as 10 percent Schumer and Graham could try to bring up the bill for a vote them strategically, but we won’t of its budget in marketing and as soon as Sept. 29. It is unclear whether they will, since they tinker with what works.” branding. Each season promotes have delayed it several times, maintaining China has made some Building the women’s brand a new aspirational message with progress. portfolio is a way for Hartmarx a word, such as “wisdom” or Paulson cited currency reform as one of several steps the to break its dependence on “courage,” engraved on metal Chinese need to take to complete the transition from a state- mainstream department stores, ring tags inside each garment owned economy to a market-based economy. He said China a sector that has become a tough and used in marketing materi- needs to modernize its rural agriculture economy, provide “an place to do business because of als. The company sponsors and adequate” pension system, develop lagging capital markets and retail consolidation. A One Girl Who... ivory sweater. participates in charity events, “free up an infl exible currency regime that hinders the effi cient “Changing ownership, in such as the annual California allocation of capital and the achievement of balanced sustainable the short term, has retail management focused Governor & First Lady’s Conference of Women growth.” on other things, and in the long term, it creates and Families, hosted by Maria Shriver. With a high savings rate of 50 percent of gross domestic prod- fewer stores with more buying power and more With the backing of Hartmarx, the company uct, the Chinese need a more balanced growth pattern, he said. private label,” Patel said. “It’s antithetical to will seek to build its Sweater.com e-commerce Competing arguments that China’s economic engine will continue what we do.” business, adding more lines to the site, which was to gain steam at the detriment of others and a belief that China is Hartmarx bought Sweater.com., parent of the relaunched last February, selling mostly the One still a developing nation in transition “miss the greater truth,” said One Girl Who… brand, for a cash payment at clos- Girl Who… brand. The company also plans to ex- Paulson, adding that the dynamic of its market dictates that China ing of $12.4 million and additional contingent pand into bottoms. take more responsibility as a global leader, such as taking a more amounts payable annually over a fi ve-year pe- Hartmarx reported second-quarter sales of active role in reviving the faltering global round of trade talks. riod beginning Dec. 1, if specifi ed earnings are $152.6 million, compared with $145.7 million in Paulson’s fi rst stop will be in Singapore this weekend to at- achieved. The deal included a fi ve-year contract the year-ago period, and earnings of 10 cents per tend the annual meeting of the International Monetary Fund and to retain the Sweater.com management team, in- diluted share versus 15 cents in the same period World Bank. He will then go to Beijing. cluding Bruce Gifford, president, and Dan Jaffe, last year. 18 WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 14, 2006 WWD.COM The Beat Retailers Layer It On for Lucrative Sales

By Jeanine Poggi AT SPECIALTY RETAIL THIS FALL, THE BUCKS ARE IN THE LAYERS. As teen and contemporary consumers pair textured tunics with tanks and Ts and add leg- gings under miniskirts to express their individual style, specialty retailers who offer the goods to build the layers likely will see better sales and profi ts, analysts said. “Anytime the consumer has to buy more items to complete a trend, it’s a positive for retail- ers,” said Eric Beder, senior vice president of Brean Murray, Carret & Co. With the silhouette transforming to include longer tops coupled with skinny jeans, this look lends itself toward layering, Beder explained. And instead of buying one top per outfi t, consumers are purchasing two or three. Being able to leverage the layering trend is critical, Beder said. “We believe the fashion-right players who can respond quickly to an ever-changing land- scape and have the systems and brainpower to pinpoint and capitalize on trends will win, while slower organizations with limited ability to react and [an] ill-defi ned image will decline quicker,” Beder explained. “We believe the ‘Darwinian’ aspect of retailing will become even more stark for the remainder of 2006 and beyond.” Meanwhile, analysts hope to see a pickup in September comps, as the weather becomes more favorable to layered wardrobes. “A delay in [back-to-school] shopping, easy comparisons and more favorable [cooler] weather should help support business,” said Kimberly Greenberger, specialty apparel retailing analyst at Citigroup Global Markets Inc. “The biggest risk to September is continuing deterioration of denim sales, which is also likely to be a big negative for holiday sales.” Abercrombie & Fitch’s denim business is one of the many in specialty retail that has been comping negatively in recent months. However, the company has been able to stay afl oat due to regular deliveries of fresh and unique tops, Greenberger said in a report. Teen specialty retailers such as American Eagle Outfi tters and Aéropostale historically have stocked up on and promoted layering items such as tanks and camisoles in the spring and summer months; however, fall will be the fi rst season this trend carries over into cooler-weather wardrobes. “The whole layering trend has been knocking on doors for the last couple of years, but it seems like it will be front and center going into the fall season,” said Liz Pierce, senior vice president and lead retail analyst at Sanders Morris Harris. If the trend takes shape, it could be a catalyst to drive sales, not only in the teen sector but also for those serving the young/contemporary demographic, such as Bebe and Urban Outfi tters, Pierce continued. In order to promote the trend, retailers are displaying sweaters and skirts that depend on other layers to complete the style. And with the introduction of new catalogues, magazines and “catazines” such as Tween Brand and Justice’s, consumers are learning how to put the pieces together and interpret current trends. Aside from tops, analysts predict leggings will be the biggest layering item for the fall, be- Layered looks coming a fashion statement all its own. were key for With Eighties-inspired apparel making a comeback, leggings will be an incremental item back-to-school at that the sector has not seen in past seasons, Greenberger said. American Eagle At The Children’s Place and Claire’s, an assortment of colored, textured and patterned leg- Outfi tters and gings and tights are allowing skirts and summer dresses to be worn well into the fall. Aéropostale. “While sales are never dependent on one trend, leggings could be the icing on the cake,” Pierce said.

Two renderings of the new Trina Turk Gets Ready for Gansevoort Trina Turk store designed By Julee Greenberg by Jonathan Adler. fter two years of searching, contemporary designer Trina Turk has fi nally found her New York home. A The designer plans to open her fi rst store in Manhattan in November at 67 Gansevoort Street, the heart of the trendy Meatpacking District. The 2,500-square-foot space will be designed by artist and interior designer Jonathan Adler, who is lending his fl air to fashion retail for the fi rst time. “I’ve always admired his work and love the design of the Parker Palm Springs hotel, which he did,” Turk said. “It’s very fun and modern. So I said I was just going to call him and see if we can work together on this store.” Turk already owns two other stores, one in Palm Springs, Calif., which opened in 2002, and the other in Los Angeles, which made its debut in 2003. Known for her feminine printed dresses and sportswear pieces, Turk projects her annual wholesale volume will reach $30 million by the end of the year. The two existing stores bring in an additional $5 million each annually. While the other stores represent her West Coast roots, Turk said she want- ed the New York store to have a slightly different feeling. “This store will be very white, with rough textures like the brick wall we painted white,” she explained. The design is modern but fused with vintage- inspired touches. “There is antique brass metal and raw silk, which we made into backdrops where the clothes will hang.” Overall, Turk said the New York store will be more organic and earthy looking than her West Coast stores, which she said are more ladylike in de- sign. “Jonathan started his career as a potter, so there are custom tiles he de- signed for the store, which will be such a nice touch,” Turk said. Turk added she always wanted a store in New York, but couldn’t fi nd the right spot. “I looked at several places downtown,” she said. “Coming from California, I just wasn’t used to this architecture. There are a lot of spaces that are long and narrow, which, as a shopper, I really don’t enjoy. I wanted a wide space A look that felt airy and light, not a bowling alley.” from Turk said the new space is big and, because of a large skylight, has plenty Trina of natural light. And the store is homey, with custom rugs and a working fi re- Turk place. resort. The store will house the entire women’s sportswear collection as well as the new swimwear line, which will be launched at retail in November. The shop also will sell the Trina Turk men’s wear line, made exclusively for the designer’s own boutiques. Turk will sell her own collection of vintage coats in the new store. “I’ve always loved vintage coats and have so many of them,” she said. “The thing with L.A. is that I really never get to wear them, so they are perfect for New York.” COUTURE LIVING

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patches and pocket linings. Details include star- shaped studs, American fl ags and military patches. Denim Dish Niki Flynn Enters U.S. A portion of profi ts from the line will be donated to Australian denim brand Niki Flynn is moving into the Iraq War Veterans Against the War, a U.S. group the American market with two eyebrow-raising prod- that calls for all troops to be brought home and offers uct ranges. support to veterans and their families. A New Prescription The brand made its U.S. debut last month Each product range includes slim-fi t, skinny-leg during a fashion show in San Francisco’s Union and straight-leg styles sourced and manufactured en- FRx was touted as the “fashion prescription” when Square, showcasing its gun-inspired Drive By and tirely in Australia. Wholesale prices range between it was launched for fall 2002. Now the brand is re- anti-war-inspired Freedom product $60 and $80 for miniskirts up to $100 for jeans. introducing itself to the market under a new owner, ranges. “We’re one of the few that do design, produce management and designer, and a more forward- As the name Drive By im- and manufacture here,” Tayem said. “It’s a lot looking name. plies, the denim pieces in the more expensive for us to do that, but the qual- The line, founded by Guy Kinberg and Michael line are shot with a 9-mm, or ity and the washes are unique and it gives us Suozzi, was purchased by Eduardo Kuri in 2006 and .357-magnum handgun. The more control.” renamed FRx Future Prescription. Kuri is looking legs are shot two to three Niki Flynn was introduced in Australia a to draw on a long family history in the textile indus- times at random places, year ago and now sells in about 50 boutiques try. His family has owned and operated the Apolo and the brand’s designers across the country, said Tayem. Soon after Textil and Baby Mink clothing and textile groups in manipulate the holes and the San Francisco launch, the line was picked Mexico for more than 45 years. He began working tears the bullets make by up by American Rag Cie in Los Angeles, and is in the industry at 14, and at the age of 18 he formed folding the fabric or alter- expected to begin retailing in January. IKA Textil SA, a manufacturing partnership with ing the surfaces. For instance, Tayem hopes to make incremental prog- his brothers that employs some 1,000 people. if a steel plate is placed behind ress into the American market in the fi rst Michael Ingenito, president of sales, said the the denim, the bullet will spread year. company’s goal is to maintain the styles and fi ts and ricochet, leaving larger holes and “All we expect from the U.S. is that spurred the brand’s initial popularity, while tear patterns. Replica bullet shell cas- to create brand awareness at this taking advantage of Kuri’s background to elevate ings are used for studs and for a rose- point,” he said. its look and feel. shaped left pocket detail. Tayem’s also well aware that “We’re defi nitely taking the whole brand a couple Hareth Tayem, a part owner and co- on top of having to learn an en- of notches up by putting our styles in better-qual- designer of the label, acknowledged tirely new market, standing out ity denim and being more detailed in the construc- the Drive By name might open the will pose a challenge. tion,” Ingenito said. brand to criticism, but said the goal “The American market to us Karla Paredes has been brought in as head de- was not to glorify violence but to intro- is a big, dark mystery,” he added. signer, having previously designed denim lines for duce something different. “You guys have a lot of denim.” Bisou Bisou, Bebe and Victoria’s Secret. The FRx “We saw the trend of the tiny rips and — R.T. brand uses a combination of Italian and Japanese holes and deconstructed denim that was denim, and the jeans are manufactured in Mexico being released,” said Tayem. “We thought, Here and inset: Details and washed and fi nished in Los Angeles. For fall, ‘How can we introduce a denim line without include bullet shell casings the company will introduce eight bottoms and two giving into doing those random rips?’ We decided to and military paraphernalia. jackets available in fi ve washes, wholesaling for shoot them.” $59 to $89. Tayem said the Freedom range was designed to “The brand originally had a style called the DiDi, “balance out the representation.” Freedom uses a boot-cut with a 7 1/2-inch rise with an 18-inch leg government surplus desert camoufl age said to be opening,” Ingenito said. “It’s basic, but it was our used by U.S. troops in Iraq and Afghanistan for claim to fame. We resurrected it as the core of our collection.” The target market is women in their mid-20s to mid-30s looking for good fi t but a more sophisticat- ed style,’’ Ingenito said. “As a result, much of the design attention has gone into fabric and presenting denim pieces that have the look and lighter feel of sportswear. “This is definitely a dif- fi cult time to be in the denim market,” he said. “Stores are downsizing, not adding [to their denim collections], so if they’re going to add, it’s got to be something special.” The new product line was re- cently introduced at the Project DKNY Jeans Hits the ’Net With Magazine-Type Site show in Las Vegas and gar- nered a strong response from DKNY Jeans has entered cy- Canadian specialty retailers, berspace. Ingenito said. The company The brand, licensed to Liz expects to generate sales of Claiborne Inc., has launched a $2 million to $5 million in magazine-like Web site featur- its fi rst year and plans to ex- ing photos of current collec- pand into nondenim pieces The Alex, a tions from the women’s, men’s such as dresses and swim- skinny capri. and juniors lines, an enter- wear down the line. tainment section, brand pro- — Ross Tucker fi le and link to shop the line at macys.com. The site goes live today at dknyjeans.com. The new site works as a marketing tool for the brand, VF Names Lee President rather than as an online store. It provides trend reports, cul- VF Corp. has named Joseph Dzialo the new presi- ture stories and event photos dent of the Lee brand. and reports intended to make Dzialo, 52, will assume responsibility for running cyber- surfers feel like they the iconic 117-year old denim brand on Sept. 25 and The new dknyjeans.com places the brand in the heart of New York and brings it to have access to DKNY Jeans- will be based in Merriam, Kan. Dzialo will report to life for consumers worldwide. sponsored marketing events. Angelo LaGrega, president of VF’s jeanswear coali- The company has also com- tion in the Americas. missioned New York-based band Ambulance Ltd. to create a musical score exclusively for dknyjeans.com. “Joe has 30 years of strategic development and When fi rst logging on to the site, the song “Green Light,” inspired by the urban vibe of the brand and the city brand-building experience,” said LaGrega in a where DKNY Jeans is based, is heard. statement. When browsing through the site, the songs change based on the tone of that particular section. The two Until now, Dzialo’s career has been in the foot- other songs on the site, “It Goes Without Saying” and “Mondo,” were also made exclusively for dknyjeans.com. wear industry. Most recently, he was a senior vice A selection of videos and a profi le of the band also appear. Each season, the brand will commission a different president and general manager of U.S. sales for artist to create a new theme. Timberland from 2003 to 2005. Prior to that, he “[The new Web site] serves as a multidimensional brand platform,” said Janice Sullivan, president of logged stints at Nine West Group, U.S. Shoe Corp. DKNY Jeans. “By offering custom content, invitations to events, chances to win trips and prizes and inter- and Procter & Gamble. views with actors and musicians, it immerses the visitor in the DKNY Jeans culture, presenting much more The search for a new brand president started than simply great-looking clothes.” in late January after Gordon Harton, a 35-year VF Sullivan stressed that the launch is an important step in the brand’s marketing, serving as a tool to create veteran, said he would retire as president in April. customer feedback and allowing DKNY Jeans to respond accordingly in future advertising and marketing Turning the Lee business around had been a focus campaigns. of the company prior to Harton’s departure. — Julee Greenberg MILANO CONTACT PARIS

21ST SEPT - 13TH OCT T: +49 (0)331 23 31 91- 17 2ND OCT - 13TH OCT WUNDERKIND SHOWROOM M: +49 (0)172- 3 82 90 38 SALLE ERARD VIA VERRI 10 [email protected] 13 RUE DU MAIL PHOTOGRAPHER: INGE PRADER WWW.WUNDERKIND.DE 22 WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 14, 2006 Macy’s Raises Flag Across

For 150 years it was Marshall Field’s on State Street; now it’s Macy’s on State Street.

Macy’s in-house I.N.C. collection is front and center across the new national chain.

Continued from page one to certain other locations. We think it’s a fun category,” ful, trendy vibe, but also noticed little change in price generally offer different categories; mall mates could Lundgren said. He cited the potential for packaged food or assortment, other than Macy’s private brands. “It’s be a Macy’s home store and a Macy’s fashion store. But and candy, particularly for holiday. The famous Frango sexier,” she said, noting a colorful mural of life-size the proliferation of the nameplate across the nation has chocolate mints have been subbranded into Frango models in active poses surrounded by a skyline and heightened consumer concerns about a deepening sea cheesecake. “Our food experts went through 15 taste Macy’s red stars. “It’s not your grandmother’s store of merchandise sameness. testings. It’s outstanding,” Lundgren said. anymore. It’s the edge that Chicago really needs to Lundgren reacts differently, saying the merger “gives At this point, it’s too early to gauge consumer re- stay competitive.” us an opportunity to use our planning and distribution sponse to the conversions. Advertising for the new na- Betty Pirrello, 66, and her daughter Lisa Pirrello, 42, organization and our regional buying offi ces to our ad- tional Macy’s just began Sept. 7, and Macy’s has ratch- who both frequented Field’s and bought the in-house vantage.” Among national department stores, “we are eted up its marketing in other ways, such as special line Field Gear, which Federated has dropped, said as- the only ones who have these regional buying, planning, events, charity activities and discounts. pects of the department store needed updating. “I think distribution and marketing organizations. That’s a very Asked when there might be a verdict on the con- it’s good to have some change,” said Betty Pirrello, who unique competitive advantage.” sumer response, Lundgren replied, “I will never stop stopped buying gifts at Field’s because she considered The competition, in particular Kohl’s and J.C. evaluating it. Janet, Tom, Sue and I will be [constant- the return policy too stringent. “Field’s hasn’t been the Penney, have gone on record stating that they expect to ly] out in the stores,” he said, referring to Federated same the past two or three years. It used to be top-notch capture more shoppers with the merger. Asked if he was vice chairmen Susan Kronick and Tom Cole, and Janet and now they give you a hard time returning things.” worried about consumers defecting to non-Federated Grove, chairman and ceo of Macy’s Merchandising. The policy has been liberalized to 120 days, from 90. stores, Lundgren said, “We have always had a great deal “This is not a short-term deal. There is no wavering She hopes Macy’s will provide better customer ser- of competition and I respect our competitors, both high- with our commitment to this national Macy’s strategy. vice. “Today, the service is better,” she said. “We’ll see.” er- and lower-end. But, ultimately, it is about the brands We are never going to stop asking questions and learn- Her daughter is also open to shopping Macy’s. “Initially, and the quality of the brands we carry, like Ralph ing how to do better.” it bothered me. Field’s has been here over 150 years, Lauren, Coach, or the uniqueness of MAC cosmetics.” “We examine daily the sell-through and customer ac- but I’m OK with it.” Kohl’s is signing exclusive deals for private labels, fol- ceptance of brands or private label,” Grove said. “In many The bottom line? Mother and daughter made a day lowing Federated’s lead, but Lundgren, expressing some cases, we are getting very aggressive on getting reorders of it at Macy’s. They ate lunch in the Walnut Room and cynicism about some of these deals, said, “It’s not just and, on the other side of the coin, taking markdowns.” opened Macy’s charges. “So far, it’s been a very nice ex- about having names slapped on a particular garment.” Last Saturday, there were about 100 protestors by perience,” Lisa said. At this point, less than a week since the Filene’s, Field’s in Chicago, many dressed in Marshall Field’s “Some consumers will have diffi culty relating to Foley’s, Marshall Field’s and other May nameplates green and carrying placards that read: “Field’s is the change,” said Chicago fashion designer Orlando were replaced by Macy’s signs, all the former May doors Chicago, Boycott Macy’s.” Inside the store, the mood Espinoza. “The Field’s stores have always appealed to have been touched to some degree by Federated’s pri- seemed different. Shoppers appeared to be taking the consumer on a personal level, but overall, consum- vate label and “re-invent” store experience programs, the name change in stride. Elizabeth Purcell, 55, who ers will realize the potential benefi ts they get, such as Lundgren said. He cited “a huge capital project” for shopped at Field’s three to four times a week, was one the addition of new collections, the opportunity to shop upgrading lighting, widening aisles, removing some fi x- of the fi rst 500 visitors to Macy’s on State Street who re- online and the reassurance that Macy’s will continue to tures from fl oors and upgrading fi tting rooms and rest- ceived a free $10 gift card. After taking in a Macy’s fash- maintain the esthetic appearance of the stores. rooms. “There’s been a lot of change, too, in between the ion show and purchasing a black-and-white houndstooth In Dallas, where Foley’s switched to Macy’s, shop- merchandise. I would say that the customer would say cap, black leggings, socks, a sweater and camisole, pers responded with curiosity, an eye for bargains and a we are more shopable now. We have really worked hard Purcell said, “I’ve thoroughly enjoyed my day here.” bit of skepticism. At the upscale NorthPark Center, the to change the shopping environment. We’ve got clearer The retired investment broker said she noticed little newly christened Macy’s buzzed with traffi c and a pro- aisles with more open vistas, better clarity of position- difference in price or selection, except the strong pro- motional ambience, thanks to the “Extra Extra Extra” ing of the brands and, in certain areas of the stores, we motion of Macy’s house brands I.N.C., Charter Club, price-slashing that ended Sunday. Anticipating a rush of come across with less goods piled up on the racks.” Alfani and Style & Co. “I’m not interested in them,” she fi rst-time Macy’s shoppers, the store heavily promoted He expects sales at the former May doors to grow by said. “For price-conscious people, it’s good. I’d rather its in-house credit card with extra 20 percent discounts 3 percent to 4 percent, in line with the rest of Federated see people wearing $39.99 knockoff pants than a T-shirt for new users. Like Foley’s, Macy’s spotlighted on the this year. and jeans, but I like to buy on style, not price.” main fl oor upper-moderate, better and bridge apparel Private label, accounting for about 18 percent of She was concerned about Macy’s positioning itself as and accessories along with a vibrant beauty department. Federated’s business, was proportionately given 18 per- too youthful. “They better focus on the Baby Boomers,” Fall trend presentations included white shirts, black cent of the fl oor space at May doors, more or less, where- she warned. A native of Chicago for 35 years, Purcell leather, knits, suits and dresses, all merchandised with as May’s private label, which has mostly been wiped out, said she may continue to shop at Macy’s, but wished the a mix of Macy’s private brands — Style & Co., Charter accounted for 7 percent of the business. Federated’s pri- Marshall Field’s moniker remained. “It’s a Midwestern Club and I.N.C., along with DKNY and Jones New York vate labels started fl owing in to May doors in mid-July. town. People like stability in the Midwest,” she said. Collection, among other national brands. Denim was Lundgren believes “they have been well received.” Rikki Ragland, 34, said, “I was one of the ‘I love used as a focal point throughout the women’s depart- Federated is considering other changes, such as Field’s people’ and initially thought Saturday was ments in brands such as Apple Bottoms, Tommy Hilfi ger entering the food business in a much bigger way, in- Field’s last day in operation instead of its fi rst day as and Baby Phat. spired by Field’s State Street offerings, to some extent, Macy’s.” Though initially reluctant, Ragland, who lives Amy Golden, 37, a Dallas native, was eager to check and the chance to roll out the Macy’s Cellar to certain in neighboring suburban Evanston, liked the Macy’s out Macy’s and wondered if the preponderance of doors. “We are evaluating whether we will expand food touch. She appreciated what she saw as a more youth- Macy’s stores across Texas and the U.S. spells fashion WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 14, 2006 23 WWD.COM U.S., Keeping Local Focus

repetition. “I’m defi nitely on a budget, but I also banners into its ongoing events, which will help follow fashion and I’m thinking about how many gain local acceptance.” Commenting on Macy’s women will be dressing similarly, considering new national ad campaign, launched a week ago, there’s so many Macy’s stores. I may buy fash- she said, “Though the company is campaigning The Federated Footprint: ion items at Macy’s and complete my wardrobe aggressively this fall, we believe Federated can at smaller specialty stores so that I have a more save approximately $400 million per year in ad unique look.” spending in the long term.” The advertising cam- Luisa Montelongo, 28, stayed an extra week in paign includes national broadcast and cable TV, What Consumers Will See Dallas after Labor Day before returning home to local newspapers, local and national magazines, San Francisco, a Macy’s stronghold. “I was curious targeted radio spots, outdoor billboards and the CHICAGO — The Marshall Field’s fl agship, considered the most to check out the offerings in Texas, especially since Internet. Direct-mail efforts include a glossy, 54- architecturally impressive department store fl agship in the country with I am a former Foley’s ‘Red Apple’ sale shopper,” page Macy’s magalogue, which was sent to the its vastness and soaring atriums, is now called Macy’s on State Street. said Montelongo. “I am pleasantly surprised with homes of 3.8 million potential customers in mar- Other Field’s units are simply called Macy’s, but in the Chicago Loop, the merchandise and prices.” kets that are new to Macy’s. Federated wants to underscore the landmark’s distinction and ties to the “I’m positively impressed with how quickly Weinswig’s target stock price of $48 a share, or city, not unlike how Macy’s in Manhattan is referred to as Macy’s Herald and orderly they’ve cleared out the old May mer- 15 times the 2007 earnings per share estimate, “re- Square, the largest store in the world. It’s also where Federated faces chandise,” said Robert Buchanan, retail analyst fl ects our view that Federated should be valued as the most resistance to the changeover and has implemented the most at A.G. Edwards, who visited the new Macy’s at a turnaround story, as the company will be keenly extensive changes to woo shoppers. Tyson’s Corner in McLean, focused on improving the “When we converted Jordan Marsh to Macy’s, Bullocks to Macy’s and Va., on Saturday and has May business following A&S to Macy’s, there was also the same kind of protest. People always seen converted units in the merger.... Federated is wanted to us to keep the name,” recalled Allen Questrom, the former St. Louis and Newport on the mark with merchan- chairman and chief executive offi cer of Federated and J.C. Penney. “But Beach, Calif. “Macy’s has dising, reinventing store with one name, the corporation could focus on improving service and many clearly established enhancements, a national marketing. With the cost of media today, it’s stupid not to. Macy’s will strengths in the misses’ branding strategy and now have the same advantage as Target or Wal-Mart or Sears Roebuck,” area and other parts of home store centralization. to devote advertising to high-profi le national media where the impact is women’s apparel.” But All are sound initiatives greater, rather than only local media. the store’s real challenge that serve to differenti- “Quite frankly, I don’t think Marshall Field’s under Dayton Hudson will be to compete effec- ate the company from the [which sold Field’s to May] had full assortments. It was tired-looking,” tively against specialty competition.” said Questrom. “Federated is a positive because its merchandise is more chains focused on men’s, Still, risks remain, re- upscale and attractively assorted. I suggest that a year from now, Chicago young men’s, children’s lated to the magnitude of customers will be happier and home. The reason the merger. “As one of the than they may be today.” Macy’s and the rest of largest department store Retailers suggest the Field’s the department stores operators, Federated fl agship, though enormously continue to lose market could be negatively im- popular, hasn’t produced the share year after year is pacted by the secular desired returns on investments that in many areas...the trends, including apparel that have been plowed into the best specialists are sim- defl ation and a heavy re- site. “To keep this store going, ply doing a better job.” liance on national brands you have to keep investing,” He cited Abercrombie & with declining sales and noted Ralph Hughes, regional Fitch, American Eagle The Macy’s customer relevance.” vice president overseeing the Outfitters and Crate & awnings go up, Arnold Aronson, man- State Street fl agship, and two Barrel. Buchanan said, but the Field’s aging director of re- other store sites. “Things in this “They are closer to the plaque remains. tail strategies at Kurt building have been changing target consumer.” Salmon Associates, noted very quickly. Something has “On a conceptual basis, Federated was placing a been happening on every fl oor. Terry Lundgren is making a mistake by not leas- greater emphasis on better brands than mainstream Macy’s is coming in with plenty ing any space to some of the better specialists,” brands, which were important to May. “It starts with of resources to make this Buchanan continued. “While he can do a great job the product and continues with service in stores changeover right.” in women’s, he’s not as effective as some of the and visual displays. The most dramatic best specialists in other areas of the store. May “There’s technology to help customers look change at the fl agship is the didn’t appear to have its heart in the effort to re- up prices, bigger fi tting rooms and better depart- infi ltration of Macy’s private vive their stores. I think [Macy’s] is better. You’ve mental signage. Not each one of these things is a labels. Charter Club has got the right guy in the driver’s seat. Somehow, home run, but each one is a base hit. Add them all replaced Field Gear, and in they need to fi gure out how to stop losing market up and you have a big inning. May was a big price several cases, private labels Amy Carlson and Theresa Gibbs, share. Just being better than May and Belk’s and promoter,” Aronson said. “Price won’t be the most are front and center, right department manager and sales Dillard’s is not enough.” compelling element anymore.” off escalators, altering the associate, respectively, of the 28 Shops Deborah Weinswig, retail analyst at CitiGroup, placement of some well- — With contributions from Sharon Edelson, designer department, with Ralph Hughes. in a research note wrote that Federated “will Rusty Williamson and Beth Wilson known brands. Charter Club incorporate traditions of its acquired regional pushed back Liz Claiborne, and I.N.C. men’s wear stands just ahead of Calvin Klein men’s, which had been out in front on the fl oor. Calvin Klein Macy’s has re-created women’s was moved forward to a better spot. “The private label is what’s juniors at former May new, so I wanted to show it,” Hughes said. doors with its Thisit shop. In addition, some brands have received additional space since the merger, including Eileen Fisher, Coach, Joseph Abboud, Hugo Boss and Levi’s, Hughes added. The “Macy-izing” on State Street and other locations also includes: ● A pricing shift for private label and some brands including Nine West and Jones New York to “everyday value,” Federated’s term for everyday low pricing. ● A bigger shop to showcase local designers through September. It has 47 ready-to-wear and accessories collections, from 19 last year. After September, collections get integrated into appropriate areas in the store. ● Signage has changed from Field’s signature green to Macy’s red. But the Marshall Field’s crest on the exterior and interior remain. ● Graphics illustrate urban icons like the St. Louis Arch, Sears Tower and Empire State Building to convey Macy’s new national scope. ● More directional signs that are easier to read. ● Price scanners have been installed. Eventually, they will also provide gift card scanning to read dollar amounts. ● Aisles are wider, with a 32-inch minimum. ● 150-square-foot vestibules have been added by fi tting rooms so people can sit and wait for those trying on clothes. ● The designer department, called 28 Shops, has its own elevator from the ground fl oor, its own shopping bags, and provides valet parking. ● Displays and fi xtures have been lowered by a few inches for better vistas across selling fl oors. ● Return policy has been extended to 180 days from 90. — D.M. PHOTOS BY KAREN HOYT PHOTOS BY 24 WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 14, 2006 WWD.COM Hupper’s Science Project

n 2002, when designer Joshua Hupper was approached to launch a Two looks from Ifashion line for the nine-year-old science organization AlphaMicron the spring Inc., Diane von Furstenberg creative director Nathan Jenden, his em- collection ployer at the time, had two words for him: “You’re crazy.” by Adept by After all, AlphaMicron is a research concern that specializes in AlphaMicron Inc. liquid crystal technology, and its products included Air Force helmet visors, digital rear-view mirrors and privacy glass — not sportswear separates and cocktail frocks. Why would Hupper leave a job at an established Seventh Avenue label for a gamble like that? And yet, four years later, Hupper successfully showed off the Ohio company’s debut spring collection, named Adept by AlphaMicron Inc., to buyers and editors in a small showroom off Eighth Avenue during New York Fashion Week. There was nary a hint of the com- pany’s roots during the three-hour presentation — well, save for the occasional scientist drifting among the fashion crowd. What’s interesting about Adept’s lineup — chicly belted trenches, blazers, sexy swimwear, tops and jumpsuits — is not so much the technology offerings, but the fact that they’re nuanced, mere punc- tuations to the collection’s more fashion-y drive. In other words, one won’t fi nd blinking LED lights or solar panels eclipsing the clothes themselves. “I’m not interested in that,” said Hupper, 25, the line’s creative director. “We’re fi guring out ways to use what the chemists [at AlphaMicron Inc.] are working on in a really elegant way.” The most obvious technological trick is in the swimwear, which, screened with photochromic liquid crystals, changes color accord- ing to sunlight exposure. Everything else in the 19-look collection is subtly trimmed or accented with color-changing sequins or with nothing at all. “We don’t want to use [these details] on everything because it feels a lot more precious when we’re only using them on certain things,” he said. His design director, Miyako Nakamura, 27, formerly of Zac Posen’s studio, added, “The technology isn’t really for a show as much as for the person who’s wearing it to enjoy. The clothes are beautiful both ways, but by using the technology, we can bring the aesthetic level somewhat higher than with classic methods.” In keeping with the focus on quality apparel, Adept by GEORGE CHINSEE PHOTOS BY AlphaMicron Inc. is being manufactured by New York’s Nancy Whiskey and the Sewing Factory, joining clients includ- ing Derek Lam, Thakoon, Costello Tagliapietra and Threeasfour. Wholesale prices have yet to be determined. Although Adept had a soft launch for fall, this season is its offi cial coming-out, with a full line of ready-to-wear as well as eyewear designed by Jonathan Figler. In fact, it was the lat- ter that came fi rst. Those military helmets, which allowed the pilot to adjust the visor’s tint, eventually gave way to similarly function- ing ski goggles and, now, sunglasses. With a mere tap on the frame, the wearer can change the color of the lens. “The clothes came from the idea of creating an aesthetic that our glasses can exist in,” ex- plained Hupper. Even so, the appeal of the collection lies in cool trappings for an urban customer, and it may not even matter that the sequin details are changing hue in the sun. As for Nakamura and Hupper, it seems that designing for a liq- uid crystal research company out in the Midwest may not be so dif- ferent from their work in the Posen and von Furstenberg ateliers. “The studio we have there is like anybody’s studio,” said Hupper, “except it has a chemistry lab downstairs and a lot of really expen- sive equipment.” — Venessa Lau Armani Shuts Unit On Place Vendôme your denim Specialist By Miles Socha Extra Soft Denim PARIS — Giorgio Armani has bid a fi nal adieu to the Place Vendôme. Estex Denim is woven with our new extra The Giorgio Armani boutique there at No. 6 went dark earli- soft high bulk yarn which generates, er this month, with plans to open a new, similarly sized location without special finishing, fabrics with a at 18 Avenue Montaigne in January. In the interim, customers clean surface and extra soft handle. Estex is are directed to a temporary store at 50 Rue du Faubourg Saint- also available in Organic, Pima and Stretch. Honoré, which opened last Thursday. Boasting stone walls and fl oors that echoed the facade, the Vendôme unit opened in September 1999. www.centralfabrics.com An Armani spokesman said the designer feels Avenue Montaigne — a luxury strip that recently welcomed new bou- tiques from Bottega Veneta, Chloé and Jimmy Choo — is a stron- ger fashion destination in Paris. By contrast, Place Vendôme has reverted to its fi ne jewelry roots, the spokesman added. Designed by Armani in collaboration with architect Claudio Silvestrin, the new 4,300-square-foot Giorgio Armani boutique on Avenue Montaigne will carry women’s and men’s ready-to- wear and accessories, plus a lower level suite for men’s made- to-measure clothing. The store will be the second Armani address on the avenue following July’s inauguration of a showroom at No. 2 for the designer’s couture collection, Armani Privé. In June, Armani also shuttered his Emporio Armani unit at 25 Place Vendôme, citing a dearth of fashion shoppers in the

Control Union Certifications area. There is an Emporio Armani fl agship on Boulevard Saint- Certificate No: C803700OE-07.2005 Germain on the Left Bank. WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 14, 2006 25 WWD.COM Westwood P.A. Helps Launch Nine West Line

By Marc Karimzadeh after the Q&A. “Nobody has any tartans was asked what she found ninewest.com and macys.com. sense of personality,” she said. “To most inspiring about America, the During her four-day stay, she VIVIENNE WESTWOOD RARELY think that you don’t need clothes designer struck a political note. was planning to visit her two fa- makes a public appearance in to express personality....We have “A long time ago, I thought it vorite museums: the Metropolitan the U.S., much less in a major clothes to help you. Men usually was exciting, but American for- Museum of Art for its Chinese art, department store — “Tell me do better than women, because eign policy has taken away any and the Frick Collection. During why I should?” she asked — yet they have the standard of the glamour the American lifestyle her New York trip, Westwood on Tuesday, Macy’s Herald Savile Row suit. Men always look once had for me,” she said. “I am also hosted a Grand Classics Film Square was able to snare her. nice. Women can look terrible.” very unpatriotic, though. I don’t series screening of “Incident at The occasion was the launch of Asked what she thought of support England either.” Oglala,” Michael Apted’s 1992 doc- Westwood’s new capsule collec- department stores, and Macy’s Westwood’s collection for umentary on imprisoned Native tion for Nine West. in particular, Westwood seemed Nine West includes quirky inter- American activist Leonard Peltier, “I don’t look at fashion maga- to dodge the question gracefully. pretations of tartans, from boots whom many believe to be innocent zines and don’t watch televi- “I don’t look around very much,” to cardigans, at suggested retails and whose case Westwood has sion,” she told the crowd of 100- she said. “I just walk in and go. ranging from $225 to $500. It is made one of her causes. “Recently, plus people. “I don’t know what I am afraid I tend not to check being selectively distributed I got very involved in human other designers are doing. But out where I am. I am in my own and will be available at Nine rights,” she said. “You can’t have the human race has never looked head.” West’s top 20 doors and Macy’s a civilization if you don’t have jus- more ugly than they do today.” When the queen of tweaked top 40 doors, as well as through tice before the law.” Vivienne Westwood at Macy’s. PHOTO BY ASTRID STAWIARZ/GETTY IMAGES ASTRID STAWIARZ/GETTY PHOTO BY The reason, she explained, was that too many people con- form to a look based on low- priced clothes of little imagina- tion and poor quality. She recalled an incident at one of her recent men’s wear shows, when a reporter asked what men should be wearing. Westwood’s response? “Give it a rest,” she re- called, indicating that some men would be better off saving for a season or two to make a quality purchase rather than buying “ter- rible” clothes every season. “It’s very depressing,” she said. She elaborated on her displea- sure with current dress codes

Chicago City Council Backs Mayor’s Veto On Big-Box Ruling CHICAGO — A big-box ordinance requiring retailers such as Wal- Mart to pay a minimum wage of $10 an hour and $3 an hour in benefi ts by 2010 is dead. The City Council on Thursday failed to override a veto of the mea- sure by Mayor Richard Daley. Wal-Mart, Target and other major companies are argu- ing that the ordinance unfairly singled them out. Wal-Mart and Target put development plans on hold pending the outcome. The council vote on Daley’s fi rst veto in 17 years as mayor was 31 to 18, three votes short of the 34 needed to override. Daley said the ordinance, which passed the council 35 to 14 in July, would hurt business development and stifl e econom- ic growth. Supporters of the “living wage” ordinance, which applied to companies with gross revenues of $1 billion or more and stores of at least 90,000 square feet, said they will continue the fi ght. Alderman Joe Moore, sponsor of the ordinance, said he will in- troduce broader legislation that will apply to businesses with more than 1,000 employees. The details have not yet been deter- mined. “This issue will not go away,” he said. Wal-Mart, which plans to open its fi rst store in the city’s West Side later this month, said the veto will guarantee more re- tail growth in the city. The decision “will ensure more jobs, more convenience and more choice for Chicago’s working families,” said Michael Lewis, senior vice president of store operations. — Beth Wilson 26 WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 14, 2006

WWD.COM The rich don’t just differ from us, they differ among each other, too. “They’re the people who rule the world,” said Doug Gollan, editor in chief of Elite Traveler magazine, TheWWDList referring to the 661 wealthy jet owners surveyed on their spending habits. The group had a median net worth of $41.2 million, while worldwide, there are perhaps 300,000 families with comparable worth. The survey further parses the super-rich niche into three distinct but free-spending personalities: Trendsetters, the largest subgroup, are impulse-driven and like leading the trend curve; winners share their success with others, and connoisseurs, the smallest but highest spending subgroup, covet craftsmanship New Jet Set Elan and object history. Collectively, they’re called the New Jet Set, a group that owns its own planes versus the fi rst-class plane travel relied on by the older jet set of the Fifties. Top luxury spending categories for the ultrawealthy, ranked by “Luxury marketers should be paying more attention,” said Gollan. — Constance Gustke average annual expenditures in 2005. FINE ART Average annual personal spending: $1,746,000 Picasso’s important Cubist painting “Dora Maar au Chat” likely was a $95.2 million New Jet Set purchase this spring at Sotheby’s. Such trophy paintings are typically the realm of winners celebrating a victory or connoisseurs expanding a world-class collection of art. The latter smart set 1 spent an average of $6,433,000 on artworks last year, which are typically rare or original. They also usually work with dealers to build collections or gain access to private viewings.

HOME IMPROVEMENT $542,000 These multiple homeowners shell out lots of money for furnishings, electronics, interior design and renovations, among other perks. From where does the inspiration come? Hotels, resorts and spas they visit. Trendsetters lead the pack in spending, since they usually prefer state-of-the-art 2 kitchens, media rooms and exercise gyms. Connoisseurs, the second-largest group here, tend to do deep research on anything they buy, such as checking out plasma TVs or tracing the architectural history of a Federal-style home.

YACHT RENTALS $404,000 Hip photos, such as Kid Rock and Pamela Anderson’s wedding on a yacht off the coast of Saint-Tropez in the spring, do a lot to fuel interest, especially with trendsetters, said the survey. Still, this is strictly a niche category — just 10 percent of the people surveyed rented a yacht last year 3 — a percentage mainly made up of winners celebrating their achievements.

JEWELRY $248,000 Known as fervent style scouts, trendsetters dominate this category. They are wooed by hot brands such as Cartier or Bulgari, as well as invitation- only parties. Winners also are attracted to design exclusivity, such as gorgeous diamond rings given on anniversaries. And connoisseurs consult 4 with gemologists or hunt for limited editions.

LUXURY CARS $226,000 Rolls-Royce or Maserati GranSport Coupe anyone? About one-sixth of the New Jet Set surveyed said “yes” to luxe cars like these last year. Half were trendsetters who are wooed by invitation-only test-drives and customer appreciation events that mix art and cars, such as invitations to opening-night 5 galas. Connoisseurs, however, spent the most money ($380,000), and they’re drawn to factory tours, car clubs and on-site custom fi ttings.

EVENTS AT HOTELS AND RESORTS $224,000 Memorable, breathtaking events capture this audience. One gent included in the survey— a winner celebrating the IPO of his travel company — transformed a resort’s pool area into the Spanish harbor from which Christopher Columbus sailed in 1492. Taking over a hotel property and 6 adapting it into a theme is increasingly popular among the wealthy, said the report. One caveat: Connoisseurs consider expertise utmost, making them demanding clients.

VILLA AND CHALET RENTALS $168,000 Privacy and control sway the New Jet Set’s desires when choosing villas and chalets. They’re largely rented to winners and trendsetters who seek 7 exclusivity, though. The key attribute they’re looking for is location, such as a cliffside villa on St. Barth’s.

HOTELS AND RESORTS EMPICS/LANDOV CARS BY GES; LUXURY $157,000 This travel-savvy group spends lots of time in hotels. Trendsetters are drawn to chic properties — a new Ian Schrager hotel opening is an example — with celebrity sightings, heady experiences and high-profi le parties. Winners want to take over properties for celebrations. And connoisseurs 8 have encyclopedic recall of hotels and their features, such as private villas with plunge pools or personal concierges. One businessman included in the survey “collected” hotels by visiting every new property opened by a particular hotel chain.

WATCHES $147,000 Keeping time in style was high on the list last year. About one-third of the people surveyed bought a watch. Trendsetters were on the lookout for notable trends such as new watch casings or collections. Connoisseurs, who favor hand-assembled watches, such as those made by Patek Philippe, 9 spent $223,000 — or nearly three times what trendsetters spent. They collect watches much like they collect art or vintage cars.

CRUISES $138,000 Winners rule here. They spent $152,000 last year celebrating anniversaries and birthdays. Like trendsetters, they want exclusive events, such as visiting the Hermitage in St. Petersburg on a private tour while cruising the Neva River. Connoisseurs are interested in the heritage of the liner 10 or noted authors speaking onboard; conversely, trendsetters investigate thread counts in their staterooms or new onboard John Georges dining rooms, said Gollan.

FASHION AND ACCESSORIES $117,000 Largely dominated by trendsetters, purchases here run the gamut from belts to apparel. This hip group is best reached with invitation-only events, trunk shows and catalogues. “Trendsetters are fashion-forward,” said Gollan. “They have their antenna up to make sure they’re on top.” 11 Connoisseurs generally purchase fashion items within a narrow range, such as a few pieces from a single designer. They want limited editions, and they have intricate knowledge of inner workings of fashion houses. “You don’t want a fi rst-year salesperson talking to them,” he said.

SPAS $107,000 Treatments such as color hydrotherapy baths or vapor caves were high on many New Jet Set lists. Some 60 percent of the group, mostly trendsetters, spent money on both destination and day spas. They’re lured by signature services and the newest spa therapy concepts. 12 Connoisseurs, however, want to be educated about new treatments, products and therapists. “They want to know about medicinal benefi ts and what really works,” Gollan explained.

SOURCE: PRINCE & ASSOCIATES/ELITE TRAVELER THE NEW JET SET SURVEY OF PRIVATE JET OWNERS. GETTY IMA BY SPAS HOTELS, FASHION, CHALET RENTALS, RENTALS, YACHT REUTERS/CORBIS; HOME IMPROVEMENT, CRUISES PHOTOS BY FINE ART,

28 WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 14, 2006 WWD.COM De Beers Heads Home With South African Brand By Bambina Wise The new KYA ad. elry has been designed to appeal to. The ads are a de- parture from the romanticized sentiment of De Beers’ JOHANNESBURG — Since emerging from the shack- long-running international “A diamond is forever” cam- les of apartheid over a decade ago, the South African paign. One ad asks, “Who am I trying to impress? Me.” economy has experienced unprecedented growth, with Another declares, “I have the world wrapped around my consumer spending and retail sales leading the way. As little fi nger.” luxury labels such as Louis Vuitton and Gucci gradually “The collection, which consists of earrings, rings and began to establish a presence in the country, the native pendants, are well designed, wearable and affordable,” De Beers brand was conspicuously absent from the re- Modisakeng said. Prices start at 3,000 rands, or $428. tail landscape. “For that you could get a fantastic pair of studs, or a This month, De Beers will launch KYA, its own local pendant.” Designs are understated and modern. “The brand of jewelry, throughout South Africa. Backed by a central stone represents the power and individuality of 2.5 million rand, or $358,000, advertising campaign ap- women, while the smaller diamonds radiate the beauty, pearing primarily in upmarket female glossy magazines the mystique, the diversity and the brilliance of a dia- and targeted specifi cally at women, De Beers aims to mond,” she said. accelerate diamond jewelry sales. Thoko Modisakeng, marketing manager of the Diamond Trading Co., De Beers’ sales and marketing The last fi ve years…have been arm, explained that “our task was to create a South “ African brand that would give a compelling reason to boomtown years. In launching buy diamonds and create huge desirability and prefer- ence for diamond jewelry among the domestic consum- KYA, we are simply responding er target segment.” Modisakeng said that, although it had always run a to consumer demand. marketing campaign, De Beers hadn’t quite taken the ” plunge in the domestic market before “because diamond jewelry sales were mainly driven by the tourist market. — Thoko Modisakeng, Diamond Trading Co. Now, our research is telling us that the domestic market is the segment that is promising more growth, compris- The KYA collection is produced in conjunction with ing in fact 75 percent of sales today, while tourists make four DTC clients, or sightholders, and are available up the remaining 25 percent.” at selected jewellers including national chains such The South African diamond jewelry market gener- as American Swiss and Galaxy & Co. Jonty Kramer ated $362 million in sales last year, according to the of Geffens Diamond Cutting Works, the only South DTC. African among the four appointed sightholders, is ex- She noted the country has witnessed incredible cited about KYA. social, economic and cultural changes. “The last fi ve “I just hope it will be fun. This is a totally new ven- years, especially, have been boomtown years,” she said. ture,” said Kramer. “We are selling the brand together “In launching KYA, we are simply responding to con- with De Beers, and I do want this retail concept to sumer demand.” work.” Market research also has told the company that to- He admitted, however, to feeling like “guinea pigs day’s South African woman is successful, independent in this test project. But the time to do this kind of thing and driven — very much the kind of woman KYA jew- Two looks from KYA. is now.” Sears’ Edward Lampert SOHO RETAIL SPACE Eyeing Home Depot? 455 West Broadway Between Houston and Prince NEW YORK — Shares of Sears Holdings Corp. and The Home Depot both rose in trading Wednesday amid rumblings on Wall Street that Sears chairman Edward Lampert might have the home construction retailer on his “buy” list. Offi cials at The Home Depot could not be reached for com- ment. Spokesmen for Sears and ESL Investments, Lampert’s in- vestment arm, declined comment. The possibility of a Lampert play for The Home Depot first surfaced Tuesday, according to a Wall Street analyst. There was speculation on the Street that Lampert was buying up shares of Edward Lampert The Home Depot. Before acquiring Sears, Lampert, who previously had taken Kmart out of bankruptcy, bulked up his holdings in the retailer. Despite merger speculation on Wall Street that was denied by Kmart and Sears at the time, Lampert eventually engineered the merger of the two companies, which is now known as Sears Holdings. One equity analyst in New York observed that, if Lampert is pursuing The Home Depot, it could be partly fueled by Sears’ de- creasing market share in appliances. In 2002, Sears captured a 38.7 percent share of the appliance market, but saw that whittle down 2,724 sf of prime retail space James S. Downey to 34.1 percent last year. The analyst said a merger or even a deal available on two floors on one of 212.841.7806 [email protected] to sell Sears’ home brands at The Home Depot, which includes SoHo’s best blocks Craftsman and Kenmore, would be good for both retailers. Eric Le Goff Separately, Sears said late Tuesday that its board approved the 212.841.5983 repurchase of up to an additional $500 million of the company’s Ground 1,324 sf [email protected] common shares. The authorization is in addition to the $118 million worth of shares remaining available under a previously announced Lower Level 1,400 sf $1.5 billion share repurchase program. Since the repurchase pro- Frontage 20’ Exclusive Leasing Agent gram began in September 2005, Sears purchased 11 million shares Possession January 2007 at an average cost of $126.14, the company said. Lease Type Direct Shares of Sears rose 1.7 percent, or $2.16, to close at $158 in Nasdaq trading Wednesday, while shares of The Home Depot rose Ceiling height 18’ (ground floor) 1.4 percent, or 46 cents, to close at $37.12 in trading on the New York Stock Exchange. — Vicki M. Young Join 200 apparel and retail CEOs for three days of information, networking and deal making. Your business will be better for it.

TERRY J. LUNDGREN DONATELLA VERSACE MAUREEN CHIQUET ROSS LEVINSOHN Chairman, President and CEO Vice Chairman and Creative Director President and COO President Federated Department Stores Inc. Gianni Versace SpA Chanel Inc. Fox Interactive Media

JOHN FLEMING TOM DOCTOROFF GELA NASH-TAYLOR STEPHEN I. SADOVE Executive Vice President and CMO CEO, Greater China Co-Founder and Co-Designer CEO Wal-Mart Stores JWT Juicy Couture Inc. Saks Inc.

OTHER SPEAKERS INCLUDE CHRIS ANDERSON, Editor in Chief, WIRED Magazine | ADRIENNE MA, President, Joyce Boutique Ltd. ARTHUR C. MARTINEZ, Chairman and CEO Emeritus, Sears, Roebuck and Co.

FOR MORE INFORMATION, CALL 866.211.1628 OR E-MAIL [email protected]

410/403&%
#: 30 WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 14, 2006 NATIONAL MARKETPLACE

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Seeking Joint Venture Established and critically acclaimed designer w/ Specialty/Department Store Dist. seeks joint venture financial partner relating to Men/Women Premium Denim and Luxury segments. Flexible terms & attractive ROI opportunities available. Contact: [email protected] SHANGHAI EXP’D MFR Better/designer eveningwear supplier. Quality work, Quick turnaround Call (212) 461-4852 www.alamoda.com

Full Service Design Studio Specializing in eveningwear offering DESIGNER design, draping, beading on premises. Denim Apparel Co located in Better sweater & blouse mfr seeks de- Sewing of individual samples or CA & NY seeking following: signer for private label and to create a Junior Textile complete private label packages. BOOKKEEPER A/P, A/R CLERK line for missy div. Must have computer Please call Geri (212) 840-7070 SALES MANAGER skills. Email: [email protected] Print Associate Exp’d, well est’d relationship DESIGNER/GRAPHIC DESIGNER A NEW YORK CITY better sportswear/ with dept/chain stores or In all aspects of line development. career wear company is seeking a Junior PATTERN/SAMPLES Strong skills in sketching, illustration, Textile Print Associate. Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast boutique stores. Manage to specs & cads. Must be computer work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 supervise sales reps. literate, detail oriented and multi- To Qualify, you must be good w/color, tasker w/ cut & sewn exp. Please organized, detail oriented, a team player, Excellent Opportunity DESIGNER email resume to: [email protected] & have experience w/repeats & pitching PATTERNS, SAMPLES, print, Textile design/art background a We’re looking for a hands-on Bookeeper A/P, A/R Exp’d premium denim jeans plus. Basic computer skills a must. PRODUCTIONS designer. Knowl of wash, fit, DESIGNER All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. clerk with experience in Accounts Payable, collections, Missy Sportswear Co. in Ft. Lauderdale, We offer a solid benefits package and a Call Sherry 212-719-0622. journal entries, bank reconciliations & understanding trend research a must. FL seeks Designer w/3-5 years exp. generous personal clothing discount. Please email resume to: Photo- shop/Illustrator req’d. Must be a Salary commensurate w/experience. of General Ledger. Person must be very detailed team leader w/ excellent communication For immediate consideration, please PATTERNS, SAMPLES, [email protected] & organizational skills. Experience send your resume, including salary oriented, computer literate in MS word/excel with dealing directly with buyers. Excellent requirements, to attention Textile PRODUCTIONS Salary and Benefits Call: 800-343-4573 Department at Fax (201) 863-2957. Full service shop to the trade. excellent organizational and follow-up skills Chargeback Collector Equal Opportunity Employer. Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. Fast paced Dress Co. needs motivated, DESIGNER Bookeeping background preferred with a minimum of detailed, organized individual to assist Moderate handbags. Should be creative, credit manager in the collection and able to meet deadlines, detail oriented, PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD 3 years experience in retail or wholesales industry prevention of chargebacks. Experience 5+ yrs. exp. Photoshop & Illustrator exp . High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- is req’d. Position is located in Kearny, Fax resume to: (212) 868-2780 or sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 We offer an excellent salary & benefits package. NJ. Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] MANAGER Apparel co. seeks Quality Assurance/ Please send detailed resume w/salary history to: Clerical / Office Manager Design Compliance Manager to work in our Midtown Mfg. seeks exp’d computer Raider Jean Company Warehouse in Edison, NJ. 3-5 yrs exp. Please send resume with salary history to oriented person for order entry, billing, Send res. [email protected] or inventory control. Office Manager Assistant Designer fax 212-244-3808 att: HR [email protected] experience. Full Time with benefits. Established Young Men’s and Boy’s Fax resume to 212-921-7082. Att: Alan Sportswear Company seeks a design assistant for the New York office. Designer for Hire CONTRACTOR Minimum 3-5 yrs. garment experience, Line design and graphic art ASST DESIGNER Couture eveningwear company seeks proficient in Adobe Illustrator & services offered. autumn cashmere seeks high quality contractor for cutting + Photoshop. Responsibilities include Call 917.689.4420 Seeking experienced and well generating initial computer illustrated Merchandiser/Product organized assistant designer for Associate Designer sewing of production + special orders. Please call/fax 212 629 3004 style sketches, CAD’s, and completing leading manufacturer of social occasion Minimum 2 years exp. in the contempo- technical production packages. Candi- Development dresses. Must be experienced with rary women’s market. Men’s experience date must be organized and able to Seeking solid merchandiser w/ a focus sample room, computer literate, able is a plus. Must be organized and aware of follow directions. Please email resume on watches / accessories. Must have to work in fast-paced design room and current trends. Proficiency in Photoshop to Indra: [email protected] knowledge of Illustrator & Photoshop. have knowledge of garment construc- & general computer skills required. Customer Service Must be creative w/ ability to identify tion and consumption. Some sketch- Please Fax resume with salary history Fast paced Dress Co. needs motivated, trends and deliver saleable product. ing ability and experience with off- to: 212-398-2255 or E-mail to: organized, good follow up individual to FACTORY MANAGER shore product development. Candidate Katherine@autumncashmere. com work w/ credit department to process Mfr. located in Mt. Vernon, NY seeks Production Person must be motivated, creative, able to orders, COD’s, & prepayments. Must hands on person. 10 yrs. experience Must have experience, be extremely multi-task and work well within the have great phone & customer service for all aspects of production. Must organized, & communicate with over- design team to meet deadlines. Please skills. Position is located in Kearny, be detail oriented & organized. seas factories. Ability to coordinate email resume in confidence to: NJ. Email: [email protected] Salary is commensurate with exp. production A-Z. Quickbooks, Outlook Administrative [email protected] CAD DESIGNER Please fax resume to: (914) 840-0509 and Excel experience. Movie Star Inc. is looking for CAD Designer Fax resume & salary requirements to Assistant artist/print designer w/ strong fashion 212-685-6627 Dress /Evening Co. seeks bright, illustration skills. Will work closely w/ Assistant Designer personable individual to answer our merchandise & design staff, needed for est’d outerwear mfr. Must be GRAPHIC ARTIST phones, greet guests, and assist with integrating concepts & ideas to create proficient in Illustrator & Photoshop, Major apparel company seeks indi- various administrative duties. Must & develop prints, color-ways, presenta- well organized, detail oriented, min 1-2 vidual with experience in girls 4-16. be computer literate. Knowledge of tion boards, etc. Working knowledge of yrs exp. Sketching & Illustration exp Must be creative & detail oriented. Patternmaker (Asst) Photoshop, ImageInfo and apparel NedGraphics/Fashion Studio software prefd. Please email or fax attn Carla: Proficiency in Illustrator & Experience in ladies swimwear. industry a plus. Email resume to: a plus. Please fax resume w/ salary E: [email protected] Photoshop required. Fax resumes to: Salary commensurate w/ experience. [email protected] requirements to: (212) 798-4771 Fax: 212-302-7041 212-221-6551, Attn: Girls Design Please fax resume to 212-398-9377 WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 14, 2006 31 WWD.COM Fabrica: A Look at the Future Through Benetton’s Eyes

large photo reproduction of inquisitive, wide-open to do a retrospective. This is not an arrival, but rather a Messages from around the world also fi ll the Colors Aeyes will greet visitors at the entrance of Benetton’s starting point for us,” he said. “We want the exhibition Notebooks sent earlier this year to 20,000 people, who Fabrica exhibition, to be held at the Centre Beaubourg to be a photograph of how the company is today. We al- were free to fi ll 50 blank pages expressing their feelings (George Pompidou) in Paris from Oct. 6 to Nov. 6. ready know its history and must look to the future.” and ideas. “We wanted people who have no voice to be “These are eyes that imagine the future and explore Indeed, Oliviero Toscani, the photographer who able to speak up,” said Renzo di Renzo, editor in chief different worlds,” said Paolo Landi, head of the project helped create Fabrica and made history with Benetton’s of Fabrica’s magazine, Colors, which is published four “Fabrica: Les Yeux Ouverts” (in English, “Open Eyes”), controversial and innovative ad campaigns, has not con- times a year, who is also creative director of Fabrica. who is Benetton’s director of advertising. The Italian tributed to the exhibition. “It would have been easier Di Renzo worked with Reporters Sans Frontières on clothing manufacturer will celebrate its 40th anniver- to simply pick photos from the archives, but we wanted this project. “I didn’t expect such a positive response,” sary this year with the exhibition as well as a fashion to show new ideas and offer new stimuli,” said Enrico said di Renzo, who classifi ed the notebooks in three dif- show revolving around the theme of wool that will sup- Bossan, head of Fabrica’s photography department, ferent groups: the artistic/creative, the social and per- port the World Food Program and also will be in the which is putting together the “I See” project — hun- sonal diaries. At the exhibition, 50 or 60 notebooks will Centre Pompidou. dreds of photos from around the world, from Congo to be on display, hanging from transparent thread. “Visitors Landi said the exhibition conceived by Fabrica, Azerbaijan to Kazakhstan to Wien, Austria. will be able to fl ip through them,” di Renzo said. A spe- Benetton’s communications research hub, will be curat- During the past year, the department’s six pho- cial issue of Colors will be dedicated to this project. ed by the Centre Pompidou. “We received an invitation tographers — Olivia Arthur, Adam Huggins, Ashley A portion of the exhibition will focus on interactive from the Centre and have been working on the exhibi- Gilbertson, Leonie Purchas, Lorenzo Vitturi and Philipp activities, including the Flipbook experience. Flipbook tion for the past year,” he said. Ebeling — traveled extensively to explore different sub- is software created by Fabrica and is the winner of the Benetton, whose 40th anniversary was actually last jects, such as the impact of mankind’s activities on the Grand Prize Award at the prestigious Japan Media Arts year, pushed back the celebrations to coincide with weather, or the story of two families torn between Cuba Festival. It allows the use of technology and the Internet the exhibition. “It will be spectacular and exciting,” and Los Angeles. to create collective art online. Flipbook has generated Luciano Benetton, chairman of the company and presi- “I never ask our photographers how many photos they more than 15 million contacts and created more than dent of Fabrica, said earlier this year. “I’ve always con- took, but how many shoes they wore out,” quipped Bossan. 200,000 animations, Landi said. “One of Fabrica’s goals sidered Paris the capital of fashion and we’ve been in- “But, seriously, these photos prod us to ask ourselves is to handle creativity in a concrete way, which must be spired by this city again and again over the years. Paris questions such as ‘Where are we going? Do we have hope connected to reality and the market,” he added. “Also, has always given us a lot of satisfaction.” for the future?’ He pointed to a photo by Ebeling show- we want to create strong ties between communication The company’s fi rst boutique opened in 1969 on ing a child playing on a Chinese “beach” fi lled with mud, and art.” Boulevard Saint-Germain. against the background of emerging skyscrapers clouded “Fabrica: Les Yeux Ouverts” is to become a traveling Landi attributed the forward-thinking mood of the by a gray haze. A total of 12 photos will be on display at exhibition. exhibition to Luciano Benetton himself. “We don’t want the exhibition, accompanied by a slide show. — Luisa Zargani

PRODUCTION Warehouse Manager SALES ASSOCIATE Production mgmt. position available at Ladies Apparel Company is looking for Tribeca clothing store seeks leading NYC-based children’s sleepwear an experienced person to manage a highly motivated Sales Associate. RETAIL MANAGER & swimwear co. With growing sales, we warehouse in Jersey City. Knowledge Experience a must. Full Time/Part Time Men’s luxury brand seeks Store require hands-on mgmt. for costing, of shipping requirements for major Please fax resume to: (212) 566-3338 product dev, scheduling, sourcing, department and chain stores. or E-mail: [email protected] Manager in Manhattan. Must strategies, systems, negotiations, profit Please fax resume with salary have outstanding leadership, control, quality & retailer approvals, requirements: 212-921-8369 spec pk review, liaison w/ our ftys, sales SALES EXECUTIVES organization and customer & design depts., CTL, BV/MTL, CPSC, service skills. Prior Retail exp. Retail Link. Must understand fabric & required, men’s clothing exp. garment construction. Occasional over- Modern Bridge Designer Sportswear seas travel. Communicate w/ small, ex- a +. We offer competitive line seeks dynamic candidates to join compensation + full benefits. perienced staff & co. principals. Send our growing team. Must have 5 yrs. letter w/ particular mention of exp. w/ min. exp. with dep’t and specialty store Send resume & motivation Wal-Mart and/or Target, resume, salary buyers. Be self motivated to build new history to: Candlesticks, Inc. 112 W. and existing businesses. letter via fax to: 34th St., NY, NY 10120. Att: Mr. Scott. Pls email resumes to 212-223 9130 Fax 212-643-9653. Email resumes to: [email protected] or [email protected] SALESPERSON fax to 509-757-7814 QUALITY CONTROL LA based better junior knit mfr Sales Pro - Sportswear MANAGER seeks an in-house salesper- Leading better sportswear firm has opportunity for motivated, exp’d pro. Komar, a 98 year old family business son for our NY showroom w/ Min 5 yrs exp. Current references re- and leader in women’s and children’s min 5 yrs exp. Must have quired. Existing relationships w/ better sleepwear is seeking an experienced spec. stores, catalogues, pvt label and and independent Quality Control an established relationship w/ branded following. E-mail resume: Manager to oversee all aspects of [email protected] fabric & garment quality control, mass, department stores and NY based 18 yrs. apparel exp. technical testing and inspections. Previous QC specialty chains. person Wvn/Knit/Swtr, relocating back experience, with knowledge of major to India. Can handle sourcing, prod US retailers requirements and Fax your resume and salary follow-ups, QC of Asia Prod. Looking for inspection procedures are a plus. history to 323-589-2914 or FT/PT job assignments. Excellent refs. We will provide training and an e-mail Call: (646) 290-7959 or [email protected] excellent benefits package to the [email protected] right candidate. If you are interested in contributing to our growing organ- ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Trimmings & Ribbons ization, please email resume and Mfr seeks experienced and motivated Leading off price distributor seeks Sales Rep w/ knowledge of industry. salary requirements to: sales executive w/ exp in accessories [email protected] Strong following a must. All territories and children markets. Must be self open except NY. For details visit our starter with excellent communication website www.shindo.com RECEPTIONIST skills. Send resume to: 212-840-8333 or Call 212-868-9311 Hiro/Steve Apparel co seeks F/T receptionist. [email protected] Must be computer literate and able to perform other office tasks. Fax/Email ACCOUNT MANAGER Tripp NYC resumes: 212-268-9504/[email protected] Est’b Missy and Junior apparel Sportswear/Streetwear Co manufacturer to open additional has an exciting oppty for an energetic, PATTERN MAKER Production Assistant Receptionist / accounts. Must have strong secured aggressive, well-organized individual Couture House specializing in Immediate FT position open for pro- relationships. Must have done business w/ strong follow up skills. Must have eveningwear seeks exp’d individual for duction asst at upscale men’s fashion Showroom Assistant with such relationships within the last solid relationships w/ dept & specialty head of custom division. Team player apparel company. Responsibilities Immediate FT position open at upscale month. Relationships must have a stores and 3-5 years exp in sales. who can work well under pressure and include ensuring on-time deliveries, men’s fashion apparel company. Re- min. of $3-5M in sales per year. Please Excellent potential & benefits. Email deadlines. Able to create from sketch, ordering trims, coordinating samples, sponsibilities include greeting clients, email resume to: [email protected] resume sal req: [email protected] draping a must. Excellent Opportunity! reviewing and evaluating garments for notifying staff of client arrivals, seat- Fax resume: 212-869-2236 quality, maintenance of all production ing clients in showroom, providing KEY ACCOUNTS MANAGER database records and other production- clients with refreshments, assisting in VP Sales related duties. Ideal candidate should —WOMEN’S — Major private label pant producer with preparation of showroom for client Far East production facility seeks top have 3-5 years of related production visits, and assisting in clean-up of Bobby Jones, a name synonymous experience or equivalent. Bachelor’s with superior quality golf and sportswear rated salesperson to interact w/ buyers Production showroom after client visits. In addi- & Sr. Mgmt of major retailers. Must degree in design, production or equiv- tion, individual will be responsible for has an exceptional opportunity available Administrator alent required. Individual must be for a highly motivated person to join have solid industry relationships. Gen- assisting in various office tasks includ- erous compensation package. Oppty of Immediate FT position open for pro- detail-oriented, self-motivated, & able ing data entry and travel flight and our NYC team in our expanding Women’s duction administrator at upscale men’s to work in a fast paced environment. line. A min of 3 years exp in women’s a lifetime. Email detailed resume: hotel bookings. Ideal candidate should [email protected] fashion apparel company. Responsibil- Excel and Word proficiency required. have strong organizational skills, be wear sales & marketing is req’d. An ities include preparation of purchase To apply, please FAX resume & salary self-motivated and able to work in a excellent comp & benefit pkg is offered. orders, work orders, and billing of ma- history to Employment Dept. at fast paced environment. Excel and Please submit resume: terials, maintenance of all production (212) 868-0481 or email to Word proficiency required. [email protected] database records & other production- [email protected] EOE M/F/D/V To apply, please FAX resume & or fax 866 485 8278 related duties. Ideal candidate should salary history to Employment Dept. have at least 5 years of related produc- at (212) 868-0481 or email to MARKETING/SALES VP tion exp or equivalent. Bachelor’s [email protected] EOE M/F/D/V For Miami-based high fashion leather degree in merchandising, production & denim co. Exp. req’d in fashion or equivalent required. Individual must Tech Designer or industry & exp. desired in creating / be detail-oriented, self-motivated, and managing independent rep sales force. able to work in a fast paced environ- Production Executive Sample/Prod’n Coord. Salary range of $60-75K plus negotiable ment. Excel & Word proficiency req’d. Looking for an articulate, organized, percentage on gross revenues. To apply, please FAX resume & Cotton Washes self-starter to handle domestic devel- Please respond to Fax: (202) 783-8730 salary history to Employment Dept. Large bottoms producer seeks techni- opment & production for better wom- or [email protected] at (212) 868-0481 or email to cal and creative washing developer, en’s wears. Must multi-task under time www.enworldwide.com [email protected] EOE M/F/D/V Travel overseas required. Great oppty. pressure and thoroughly follow-up. Email resume: [email protected] E-mail resume w/ salary requirements to: PRIVATE LABEL [email protected] SALES Private label ladies sportswear co WAREHOUSE CLERICAL seeks a team player who can initiate PRODUCTION Comp. Exp Shipping, Receiving, and and follow through on programs from Ladies garment importer needs detail Routing. Detail oriented. Ladies concept to delivery. 5 years sales/ oriented production person, computer Apparel Jobber. East Rutherford, NJ. product development experience with literate. Excellent opportunity! Fax Resume & Salary Requirements good merchandising skills and estab- Fax resume: 212-921-8369 (212) 764-4625 lished contacts preferred. Send res: [email protected] Mercury jumps out of the driveway and onto the runway.

Mercury made waves earlier this year when it unveiled a custom edition Milan, the VOGA,* at the Miami Fashion Week.®

The customized Mercury Milan, VOGA Edition, is the vision of “ From its sleek, lowered stance Camilo Pardo, who also designed the critically acclaimed Ford GT to its unique palette—featuring a supercar. He is an accomplished metallic Mar Azul exterior and rich fashion and furniture designer. Pardo worked with Ford Motor Arena interior—the VOGA signals Company’s design team to create confidence and style,” said Pardo. a complete style makeover for this custom edition Mercury Milan.

Aftermarket specialists 3D Carbon, who have designed numerous customized vehicles, also lent their expertise. They teamed with Pardo to give the Milan special aerodynamic details including the addition of a front air dam, as well as a side skirt that continues around the body of the rear bumper, a rear spoiler on the decklid and one on the backlight.

Plenty of brightwork accents VOGA’s cool metallic blue hue. Special 20-inch polished aluminum wheels add to its sporty presence while modified polished dual exhaust tips complete the rear. A stunning, high-polished stainless steel roof panel introduces even more drama.

The VOGA’s modern styling carries over into the interior, with metallic detail and polished chrome accents throughout. The car’s distinctive black environment is offset by Arena, or sand-colored, leather- trimmed seating accented with Mar Azul stitching. And for further sophistication, the custom VOGA insignia is stitched onto both the seats and floormats.

*Vehicle not available for sale.