plane rideaway. ferry or andsouthoftown,Zanzibarisonlyashort beaches andislandsjustnorth shops. andwell-stocked Forabreakof services fromthebustle,there are easilyaccessed It’s alsoanagreeable placetobreak yourtravels elsewhere inthecountry,withanarray Moshi). Yet thecitymeritsavisitinitsownrightasTanzania’s politicalandeconomichub. (betweenArushaand of themanyinternational International flightsintoKilimanjaro Airport the harbourandpeacocksstrollacrossleafy,manicured State Housegrounds. red-tiled roofs jostleforspacewithsleek,modernhigh-rises,massive oceanlinerschuginto buildingswiththeir bananas andmangoesontheirheads. colonial-era Alongthewaterfront, many Tanzanian women)standintheshadeofgovernment officeblocksbalancingtraysof bicycles, whilewomencladinbrightlyhued asmenweave single-speed full ofcolourandactivity, throughtrafficonlarge Chinese-made shopsandrestaurantscraft markets, mostvisitorsbusy.The enoughtokeep streets, too,are roots. Whilethereences andclosetiestoitsSwahili aren’t many‘sights’assuch,there are afascinatingmixture ofAfrican,place, withapicturesque ArabicandIndianinflu- seaport, capital). Yet manageable underitsveneer ofurbanbustle,thecityremains adown-to-earth, is ’s major centre andcapitalineverything butname(Dodomaistheparliamentary With apopulationofalmostthree millionandEastAfrica’s second-largest port, Dar esSalaam Salaam es Dar 84 © LonelyPlanetPublications „ An increasing numberoftravellers advantageofone bypass‘Dar’completely, bytaking

„ „ „ „ „ HIGHLIGHTS TELEPHONE CODE: Immersing yourselfinlife localstyle– aroundthe Snorkelling Relaxingatthe Shoppingforcraftsat Strollingthroughthe north orsouthofthecity north service at service at everything scene fromenjoyingtheweekend ( p101) Mwenge Carvers’ Market inthebeatonstreet taking Coco Beach St Joseph’sCathedral ( p97 ) toattending a church beaches % 022 city centre Msasani Slipway offshore islands 12 ad p104) and (p102 ( p97) (p92) ( p89), or

kangas „ POPULATION: APPROX 3 MILLION Mwenge Carvers' (printed cottonwraparoundswornby Market City Centre Beaches St Joseph's Cathedral Offshore Islands Coco Beach Msasani Slipway

Beaches DAR ES SALAAM 85 022-211 022-211 022-260 022-266 Sea Cliff Village % (Map p90 ; % 022-213 6578; in % 022-211 5507; % % % 022-266 8385, Steers 022-213 1406/2; % % (Map p90 ; 022-211 6574/5/6; info %

(Map p90 ; p90 (Map (Map p86 ; (Map p86 ; % 022-276 0087, 0754-777100, (Map p90 ; Sokoine Dr) Be- p90 (Map (Map p90 ; (Map p86 ; p86 (Map 022-260 1307/8, 0784-783393, (Map p90 ; p90 (Map % ( (Map p86 ; % (Map p90 ; Mwalimu Julius K Nyerere ; Mwalimu Julius K Nyerere p90 (Map (Map p86 ; p86 (Map visa applications 8am-noon Mon-Fri, (Map p90 ; Msasani Slipway h (Map p86 ; p86 (Map 8am-6pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat) A Western-run h Bookshops Bookshops cnr Ohio St & Samora Ave) Dar es Salaam’s best bookshop, Dar es Ave) cnr Ohio St & Samora with classics, modern fiction, travel guides, Africa titles, and more. maps (Map p86 ; Sea Dr); Toure Cliff Village, p86 (Map 1088; Msasani Slipway, Msasani Peninsula); Msasani Peninsula); 1088; Msasani Slipway, 0754-777073; www.knightsupport.com) For emergency for membership details. p339 evacuations; see 022-266 8320; [email protected]; New Bagamoyo Rd) Western restaurant. standards and facilities; next to Big Bite Cultural Centre, Ohio St) Cultural Centre, 1747; Sokoine Dr) Near the Central Line Train Station. 1747; Sokoine Dr) Near the Central Line Train Immigration Office Immigration Office Wizara ya mambo ya ndani tween Pamba Rd and Ohio St. A good bet for older books, tween Pamba required. is especially on colonial-era history; bargaining Station. Sokoine Dr) Near the Central Line Train Flying Doctors & Amref IST Clinic Ruvu 24hr emergency 0754-783393; www.istclinic.com; Rd; It’s the best bet for travellers, with a fully equipped clinic. doctor look for the small From Chole Rd, on call 24 hours. Ruvu Rd signpost just south of and diagonally opposite the Slipway turn-off. Oyster Bay police station Premier Care Clinic Traffic police headquarters cnr Ghana 8640/3; www.tanzania.go.tz/immigrationf.html; & Ohio St; Ave Cultural Centres Alliance Française British Council Ave) cnr Ohio St & Samora @britishcouncil.or.tz; Nyumba ya Sanaa Russian Cultural Centre Emergency Central police station Air ResponderFirst Otherwise, there’s a good selection of smaller smaller selection a good Otherwise, of there’s bookshops. hotel for salecity maps at INFORMATION Novel Idea A Second-hand Bookstalls 7332; Toure Dr) North of Coco Beach. Dr) North7332; Toure of Coco [email protected]; Ali Hassan Mwinyi Rd) Ali Hassan [email protected]; Rds) Ocean cnr Ufukoni & emergency 254-20-315454/5, 254-20-600090; www Ali Hassan Mwinyi Rd) For emergency evacua- .amref.org; membership details. for p339 tions; see visa collections until 2pm) visa collections . Dar Dar Surveys & (Map p90 ; cnr (1:20,000; (1:20,000;

8am-2pm Mon-Fri) h

DAR ES SALAAM •• History

On the other side of town, northeast of town, northeast of On the other side of HISTORY HISTORY

ORIENTATION ORIENTATION Maps Maps Until the mid-19th century, what is now Dar what is century, the mid-19th Until The tourist information centre has free has free The tourist information centre photocopied city maps. The unwieldy & Guide Map Salaam City es Tsh5000) is available from the is available Tsh5000) Mapping Division Map Sales Office crossing Selander fast-developing the Bridge, of areas residential diplomatic and upmarket BayOyster and Msasani. The city’s only real sand is at Coco Beach, of near Oyster stretch ) p102 to the north ( Bay, beaches but better ride away. only a short ) are p104 and south ( from here along the coast are, first, the upper- first, along the coast are, from here after Upanga and then, of middle class area streets with the National Museum, Botanicalstreets House.Gardens and State Proceeding north monument, is a quiet area of tree-lined tree-lined of monument, is a quiet area Askari India and Jamhuri Sts, is the Asian quarter, quarter, Sts, is the Asian India and Jamhuri lined with narrow streets of with its warren and traders. Indian merchants banks, foreign-exchange bureaus, vendors and vendors bureaus, banks, foreign-exchange around Samora Ave, shops. Northwest of The city centre runs along Samora Ave from Samora Ave runs along The city centre monument, with the clock tower to the Askari legislature and official seat of government seat and official government of legislature in 1973. to Dodoma transferred were than the dhow port in Bagamoyo. In 1891 In Bagamoyo. than the dhow port in from was moved the colonial administration Bagamoyo to Dar es Salaam. Since then the po- undisputed Tanzania’s city has remained litical and economic capital, even though the ment, which viewed Dar es Salaam’s protected viewed Dar es Salaam’s protected ment, which for steamships alternative harbour as a better their way from Zanzibar and to the interior, then as a seat German for the colonial govern- es Salaam assumed new significance, first as a significance, first es Salaam assumed new way-station missionaries making for Christian owed by Bagamoyo, important an dhow port the 1880s that Dar to the north. It wasn’t until into a port and trading centre, and named and named and trading centre, into a port Peace’). of Salaam (‘Haven Dar es the site the harbour developmentNo sooner had of begun, however, than the sultan died and the town again sank into anonymity, overshad- the 1860s Sultan Seyyid Majid of Zanzibar of the 1860s Sultan Seyyid Majid inland harbour decided to develop the area’s lonelyplanet.com es Salaam was just one of many small fish- just one of es Salaam was along the East coast. In African ing villages Kivukoni St; Front & Luthuli