NORTHEASTERN TANZANIA 153 Pangani Bagamoyo mentions the exist- © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © Usambara Park Mountains Saadani National Mkomazi Game Reserve
Periplus of the Erythraean Sea Sea of the Erythraean Periplus ( p154 ) Saadani Na- ( p179 ) Usambara Mountains Bagamoyo ( p160 ) ( p158 ), Tanzania’s only coastal only coastal ), Tanzania’s p158 ( Pangani Pangani Getting a true bush experience from the Getting a true bush experience from the Meandering along winding footpaths in Meandering along winding footpaths in back into history in the former Stepping Lazing in a hammock on the beaches Lazing in a hammock on the beaches Savouring sun and safari at tional Park national park national park comfort of a wonderful upmarket camp in Reserve Mkomazi Game the cool and scenic ( p168 ) colonial capital of around
HIGHLIGHTS HIGHLIGHTS
Most of the region is within an easy half-day’s drive or bus ride from both Dar es Salaam or is within an easy half-day’s drive Most of the region Along the coast, visit the medieval, moss-covered ruins at Kaole back to and Tongoni, step medieval, moss-covered Along the coast, visit the
accommodation, and the local transport network reaches many areas of interest. accommodation, and the local transport many areas network reaches zibar. Main roads are in good to reasonable condition, there’s a reasonably wide range of a reasonably condition, there’s in good to reasonable Main roads are zibar. and Arusha, and there are good connections between many places in the region and Zan- good connections between many places in the region are and Arusha, and there comfort of a wonderful Mkomazi Game Reserve. upmarket camp in the seldom-visited ing burial rituals of the neighbouring Pare, or experience the wild East African bush from the or experience the wild East African ing burial rituals of the neighbouring Pare, colourful market to Same and learn about the intrigu- days of the local Sambaa people, head hike along shaded forest footpaths around Lushoto while following the cycle of bustling, while following the cycle footpaths around Lushoto hike along shaded forest Pangani, or enjoy beach and bush at Saadani, Tanzania’s only seaside national park. only seaside Inland, bush at Saadani, Tanzania’s or enjoy beach and Pangani, the days of Livingstone in Bagamoyo, relax on long stretches of palm-fringed sand around on long stretches in Bagamoyo, relax the days of Livingstone AD, the author of the mariners’ chronicle AD, the author of the mariners’ to explore. region an appealing areas its lush, mountainous inland For at least 2000 years, northeastern Tanzania has been attracting visitors. In the 1st century has been attracting visitors. 2000 years, northeasternFor at least Tanzania makeaccess and lack of crowds, the northeast’slong, tropical, ruin-studded coastline and the coast with links to portsthe coast with links to Today, this long history, plus easy in Arabia and the Orient. Tanzania Tanzania sprang up along a string of settlements centuries later, Several Pangani. around present-day Northeastern been somewhere possibly of Rhapta, which is thought to have ence of the trading outpost NORTHEASTERN TANZANIA into aslow declinefromwhich it has yetto ferred Bagamoyo toDaresSalaam, sending government. wastrans- In1891thecapital the first major uprisingagainstthecolonial was atthecentre of theAbushiri revolt ( p161 ), Africa,andin1888it of East capital German interior. country’s tothe missionaries travelling fromZanzibar for way station asanimportant town served and fortheremainder of thecentury asashelterBagamoyo for ransomedslaves, Freedommissionaries established Village at and endedtheirtripshere. In1868,French andDavidMorton Stanley Livingstone,began explorers, includingRichard Burton,Henry andelsewhere, andmanyEuropean Zanzibar copra were unloadedbefore beingshipped to Tanganyika Slaves, withthesea. and ivory,salt nus of thetradecaravan route linking Lake African coastandthetermi- along theEast was oneof settlements themostimportant early andmid-19thcenturywhenthetown dhows loaduptakes youbackintimetothe paved streets orsittingattheportwatching Strolling through narrowun- Bagamoyo’s % BAGAMOYO marily on torely elsewhere you’llneed highways; pri- from DaresSalaamupthecoast to Tanga. Wami River, soit’snotyetpossibletodrive (4WD required). There’s noferry over the coast, where thingsare inspots stillrough reasonable condition,exceptforalongthe routes areSecondary mostlyunpaved butin Dar esSalaamwithTanga andwithArusha. major routes are roads connecting thetarmac torelyyou’ll need ontheroadnetwork.The for charter aroundPangani. flights Otherwise, airstrips sometimes, toSaadani,andseveral There are toTanga commercialflights and, Getting There&Around project. conservation blackrhinoand knownforitspioneering ( p179 ), soontobegazetted asanationalpark the seldom-visited MkomaziGameReserve Northwest of here, ontheKenya border,is tional parksandtheonlyoneoncoast. Park ( p158 ), oneof Tanzania’s newestna- The northeastishometoSaadaniNational 154 National Parks&Reserves From 1887 to 1891, Bagamoyo wastheFrom 1887to1891,Bagamoyo connecttownsalongthemain buses Large 023 OTESENTNAI • Bgmy TANZANIANORTHEASTERN ••Bagamoyo dalla-dallas (minibuses). site of theoldslave market), which haslively beachside hotels, andnotto carry valuables. group, bothintownandalongtheroadto you tothebeach. it’sbesttowalkina Atnight, Kaole ruins,anddon’tbringvaluableswith of beach, townandthe especiallybetween the usualprecautions, avoid isolated stretches touts and,attimes,abitof ahardedge. Take hasasmallcoterie ofBagamoyo aggressive Dangers &Annoyances person per hour US$20). hour US$5)andvisitstotheKaole ruins(per toursUS$15), museum (perperson perhalf including towntours (perperson perhour can alsohelpwithguidesandexcursions, @gmail.com; Tourism 5pm) There’s Microfinance nextdoor,changes Bank, cash. ing atthetownentrance. TheNational There’s acardphoneattheTelecom build- Information beaches withswimmingat tide.high town, where there are someseaweed-strewn explorations, headtothesoutheastern edge of Salaam. Onceyou’ve of hadenough historical able dayorweekend excursion fromDares charmhistory andsleepy make itanagree- recover. unhurriedpace,long Bagamoyo’s beach isthe was moved to Dar esSalaam.Directly onthe administrative headquarters until thecapital and multiracial school inwhatisnowTanzania; to thelate 19thcenturyandwasthefirst builtin1897;a offices), old ings, you’llfindtheimposingremains of the along OceanRd.Here, amongotherbuild- leisurely stroll. Themostinteresting area is Town) asit’sknownlocally,iswellwortha central Bagamoyo echo together withthefootsteps of history, leyways where thesoundsof children playing colonialbuildingsandsmallal- German-era crumblingWith itscobwebbed portals, BAGAMOYO TOWN Sights &Activities port isalsohome to abusy the timewatching boatbuilders atwork.The Bagamoyo’s German boma German attheoffice of the Liku House Liku ( % internet access internet h 0784-869652, 0752-712001;bagamoyo2007 German Customs House Customs German port 8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, to2pmSat) 8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, , which served as the German astheGerman , which served , or (colonial-era administrative , where youcanwhileaway Mji Mkongwe (per hrTsh1000; Bagamoyo Institute of Bagamoyo Institute school fish market lonelyplanet.com , which dates (1895)and h (Stone , which (onthe 8.30am- NORTHEASTERN TANZANIA 155 (60km) Latham Chake Chake To Malindi Mkoani Wete MOMBASA
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h ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ NoὈὈὈ rt B129 Himo Chini Mvomero Mwanga Kisangara Kwadihombo Kibaoni NORTHEASTERN TANZANIA NORTHEASTERN To Iringa (310km); Mbeya (555km) Moshi To Dodoma (275km) To Kondoa (220km) To Arusha (80km) Nyumba Reservoir ya Mungu lonelyplanet.com NORTHEASTERN TANZANIA mission itself dates fromthe1868establish- mission itself Town enroute toWestminster Abbey. The body waslaidbefore beingtaken toZanzibar compound isthechapel where Livingstone’s stop.Inthesame andanessential highlights centuries furtherintothepastat Just southof timeslidesseveral Bagamoyo Tanzania. in ment of Freedom Village andistheoldest Tsh1000/5000; ( Mission, withitsexcellent Catholic long mango-shadedavenue istheHolyGhost About 2kmnorthof townandreached viaa HOLY GHOSTCATHOLIC MISSION coast. Swahili andelsewhere alongthe found onZanzibar streets linedwith or both).Northwestof here are small several madefrommaizeorcassava flour, (a staple orangepeeled andsomegrilledfish or bythefoodvendorsshift tables andenjoya fish market, take abreak atoneof themake- auctions most afternoons. Whileyou’re atthe 156 AL RUINS KAOLE % every one, American,English orTurk, whowill helptohealthis open sore oftheworld.’ his lastwritten words:‘AllIcanaddinmysolitude, is,mayheaven’s richblessingcomedownon toend thehorrorsofslave trade withwhatwereplaque memorialises hisefforts purportedly to haltthetradewere mobilised,anditfinallygroundtoa haltintheearly20thcentury. apoint of noreturn fromothermissionaries,marked reports fortheslave trade. Britishattempts attracted byhiswell-publicised funeral,theestablishmentofFreedom Village inBagamoyoand its horrorsandinjusticestotherest combinedwiththeattention oftheworld.These efforts, toexposehim. OnhistripsbacktoEurope, andwrote hespoke ceaselesslyagainstitinaneffort Bagamoyo andthesea,where toEngland. it wasthentaken carriedhisembalmedbodyinanepic1500kmjourneyto hisporters out andburyinghisheart, set offagainonhisquest.Hediedin1873Chitambo,present-day Zambia. After cutting Stanley. Morton He madehiswayasfarUjiji,where hewasfamously‘found’bytheAmericanjournalistHenry toconclusively solvewhat wastobehisfinalexpedition,seeking theriddleofNile’ssource. the ZambeziRiver andtoVictoria Falls. for In1866,hesetofffromthearea around Mikindani westtopresent-day AngolaandtheAtlantic coast,andeastalong intotheKalahari, way north his some ofthemostinaccessiblecornerscontinentonaseriesexpeditions –making in Cape Town (SouthAfrica) twodecades,Livingstonepenetrated in1841.Over the next into at alocalcottongin, followedbymedicalstudiesandordination,hesetoffforAfrica, arriving Blantyre, Scotland,thesecondofseven children inapoorfamily.After achildhoodspentworking David Livingstone–oneofAfrica’s mostfamousexplorers andmissionaries –wasbornin1813 THIS OPENSOREOFTHEWORLD 023-244 0010;adult/studentTsh1500/500, camera/video OTESENTNAI • Bgmy TANZANIANORTHEASTERN ••Bagamoyo In 1874,Livingstone wasburiedwithfullhonoursinLondon’s Westminster Abbey.Todaya During histravels, Livingstonewastormented bytheravagesof slave tradethatsurrounded Tanganyika ofLake After exploringparts withStanleyandspendingtimenearTabora, Livingstone h 10am-5pm) carved doors carved –oneof Bagamoyo’s similar to those similartothose museum Kaole Kaole ugali
the oldest in East Africa. Itwasbuiltinthe the oldestinEast oldest inmainlandTanzania andalsooneof a 13th-centurymosque,which isoneof the past Chuocha Sanaa. Bothroutes, andespe- longerslightly route alongtheroadrunning look forthestonepillars. There’s aneasier, ends, goafew hundred metres inlandand grove swamps.Where thebeach apparently about 5kmpastKaole village intotheman- on footisbyfollowingthebeach southfor heyday. Kaole’s during harbour, nowsilted, thatwasinuse of stand mangroves,past adense istheold nants foundinthearea. Justeastof theruins, pottery fragmentsandotherrem-Chinese housing better condition,andasmallmuseum of atTongoni( those p167 ), butin somewhat Shirazi pillar-styleseveral tombsreminiscent period.Amongthegravesto thesame are as about22graves, manyof which goback mosque datingtothe15thcentury,aswell assumed anysignificance. Nearbyisasecond trade,andlongbeforecoastal had Bagamoyo ofdays whentheSultan Kilwaheldswayover to 5pmSat&Sun) ruins The mostdirect waytoreach theruins
(adult/student Tsh1500/500; . Atitscentre are theremains of h lonelyplanet.com 8am-4pm Mon-Fri, 8am-4pm Mon-Fri, NORTHEASTERN TANZANIA
157 No- bandas ) With its a (camping per per- 023-244 0083; bbr
About 50m back About % (
0754-024015; maryniceplace A converted house a with A converted Basic with cold- rooms Fine and friendly, with Fine and friendly, with % ) ( 023-244 0077; www.travellers-lodge (r without bathroom Tsh4000) (r without bathroom
(meals Tsh2000) a % (minibus) stand. Buckets of hot hot of (minibus) stand. Buckets
( dalla-dalla In addition to these places, Bagamoyo has a Bagamoyo Beach Resort New Top Life Inn Francesco’s Hostel & Camping Mary Nice Place (thatched-roof huts) on the beach that have that have huts) on the beach (thatched-roof value, good budget just a bed and net and are and a seaside Travellers just north of location is The cuisine (meals about Tsh6000) Lodge. and tasty. French-influenced which most of hotels, bland midrange string of relaxed atmosphere and reasonable prices, prices, and reasonable atmosphere relaxed the beach this is among the best value of places. Accommodation is in clean, pleas- lush around expansive, scattered ant cottages some grounds, including some on the beach, and all with mosquito beds with two large (meals from also a restaurant netting. There’s natural-style children’s and a great Tsh5000) It’s on the road running parallel to play area. to the the entrance just south of the beach, Catholic mission. @baganet.com; bandas per person without bathroom US$10, s/d/tr US$34/42/50; rooms in two blocks (ask for the adequate no-frills one closer a few to the water), @yahoo.co.uk; r Tsh25,000) @yahoo.co.uk; r Tsh25,000) somewhat overpriced small garden, basic and with ad- (Tsh4500) rooms with fan, and meals Its popularity means that there’s vance order. outside touts waiting also usually a group of to go to Kaole trying to drum up business just in It’s signposted, ruins and other sites. on foot minutes a few from the road to the left Arts. of the College passing after from Kizota Guest House towards the main the mar- junction and two blocks northwest of meals. local this place has inexpensive ket, MIDRANGE Travellers Lodge .com; camping per person with shower US$5, s/d garden cot- tages US$40/55, beach cottages US$50/65; Sleeping & Eating & Eating Sleeping BUDGET Kizota Guest House walk from about a 10-minute places, the beach the request. on available are water r Tsh15,000) son Tsh5000, shower, net and fan, just 100m further water and Nice Place up the road from Mary reasonable value. frills rooms in a local-style guesthousefrills rooms along to from the main junction the road leading
, all , the Bagamoyo . College of Arts •• Bagamoyo NORTHEASTERN TANZANIA Mbegani lagoon , just off the main main , just off the Mwambakuni sand bar (www.jamani.nl/site/BLACC
023-244 0149, 023-244 0032; www (www.bagamoyo.com)
and , a renowned theatre and arts theatre , a renowned % centre 9am-4pm Mon-Sat) h .html; This little This COMMUNITY TOURISM SPOTLIGHT: COMMUNITY SPOTLIGHT: TOURISM LIVING ART & BAGAMOYO DESIGN CENTRE HANDICRAFT to road near the entrance Dar es Salaam post office, was established town and the ago about a decade with Dutch funding training them in to empower women by design and pro-business and handicraft them a means to earn duction, giving several Since its founding, their livelihood. been trained, many have women hundred gone on to start of whom have their own also a There’s groups. craft-production you can buy crafts small showroom where craftswomen at and sometimes watch the work. EXCURSIONS EXCURSIONS Ruvu River delta nearby. Expect to pay from US$20 to US$25 four people. with per person The coast around Bagamoyo is full of interest- The coast around Bagamoyo is full of and a ecosystems birds, mangrove ing water sand.tour- The of uncrowded stretches few the hotels ist information office most of and to excursions can arrange Bagamoyo, the see of the website Friendship Society annual highlight is the Bagamoyo Arts Festival annual highlight is the Bagamoyo Arts Festival and arts in on the college ). For more p338 ( drumming performances, and it’s possible to drumming or dancing lessons. The arrange artistic pulse. When school is in session in session is artistic pulse. When school occasional traditional dancing and are there college, home of the national dance company the national dance home of college, Tanzania’s of the best measure’s and one of road to Dar es Salaam is the (Chuo cha Sanaa; .college-of-arts.org) COLLEGE OF ARTS Bagamoyo along the of 500m south About your hotel; the going rate is a steep Tsh30,000 Tsh30,000 is a steep the going rate your hotel; per group, though bargain you can probably way down. this English-speaking guide, arrange it in advance English-speaking guide, arrange or with at either the tourist information office a guide and not carry valuables. If you want an a guide and not carry valuables. cially the beach route, have a reputation for a reputation have route, cially the beach muggings, to walk in a group with so it’s best Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book NORTHEASTERN TANZANIA road north ofBagamoyo road north Beach Resort. ifyou’re payingbycredit card.It’salongthebeach prices manicured lawns. Add6%tothese complex overlooking rooms, somewithseaviews,inalarge,apartment-style s/dfromUS$70/85; .paradiseresort.net; o Pangani. or no regular direct dhowtraffic toSaadani well.Therethe nextmorning ifallgoes is sometime around 1am,arriving inZanzibar customs building. Departures are usually with theimmigrationofficer intheold text on p357 toregister. You’llneed first but before jumpingaboard, read theboxed motorbike). a the towncentre charge Tsh1500 (Tsh500 on the roadheadingtoDaresSalaam. Taxis to is about700mfromthetowncentre justoff hours). The (Tsh1200, toBagamoyo New Posta) two via road, andaccessed of DaresSalaamalongtheNewBagamoyo las Chalinze). of northDar esSalaam–Arushahighway, (65kmwestonthe fromMsata Bagamoyo mac. With4WDit’salsopossibletoreach Salaam andaneasydrive alonggoodtar- isabout 70kmnorthofBagamoyo Dar es Getting There&Away compound. fisheries lodge. Youcanleave yourvehicle inthe where it’sjustashort boatrideover tothe the MbeganiFisheriescompound,from toFollow signsfromthemainhighway excursions canbearranged. toBagamoyo large peninsula. AccommodationisinLagoon Lazy south of onthesecluded Bagamoyo A relaxing, upmarket placeabout 10km .info; s/dwithfullboard&boattransfers US$200/280; Lazy Lagoon TOP END (LivingstoneClub) BeachResorts Malaika Paradise HolidayResort better onesare the following: which are Amongthe particularlynotable. cater toconferences andgroups,noneof 158 ( costs Tsh4000/3000 peradult/child for nonguests. rooms. Thepool opulent reception area andcomfortable US$90/114; % Dhows to Zanzibar costaboutTsh5000,Dhows toZanzibar Via publictransport,there are throughout thedayfromMwenge throughout (north 023-244 0080/0059;www.livingstone.ws; s/d OTESENTNAI • SaaiNtoa ak TANZANIANORTHEASTERN ••Saadani NationalPark bandas, ais
( dalla-dalla % andshort dhow tripsand 0784-237422; www.tanzaniasafaris ) Thebestofthebunch,withan ( % stand in Bagamoyo inBagamoyo stand 023-244 0136/40;www dalla-dalla as dalla-dal- ) Modern
from s
) mostly deserted beachmostly deserted stretches asfar and crocs,it’squite likely thatyou’llsee gi- undercontrol.Inadditiontohippos brought surely increasing nowthatpoaching isbeing tional parks,animalnumbers are slowlybut compare withthatinthebetter-known na- country ontheother. thorn acaciasreminiscent of drierareas of the and lushfoliage ononeside,andwhistling thetwobanks,withareastween of date palms theresections, are alsomarked variationsbe- of thewater asyoumove upstream. Insome riverbanks change withthedecreasing salinity It’s interesting towatch thevegetation alongthe bee-eaters. and kingfishers hamerkops, ing lesser flamingos (inthedelta), fish eagles, see hippos, crocodilesandmanybirds,includ- flowing WamiRiver, where you’llprobably have timetoexplore further afield. excursion andisagoodchoice ifyoudon’t asanovernight Dar esSalaamandZanzibar fromboth time. It’seasilyaccessed the same you canenjoythebeach andwatch wildlife at one of thefew spotsinthecountrywhere Unpretentious and relaxing, as itbillsitself is oneof Tanzania’s newestnationalparks. a 1000-sq-kmpatch of wildernessthat coastal istiny Zanzibar, stretch of coastline,anddirectly opposite About 70kmnorthof alongalovely Bagamoyo SAADANI NATIONALPARK csos house. customs asthe colonial timesthefort served German fore theywere shippedtoZanzibar. During asaholding cellforslaveswas used be- crumbling walls of anArab-built fortthat the Among otherthings,youcanstill see was onceoneof themajor portsinthearea. looklike itdoesn’t muchAlthough today,it the mainparkarea istinySaadanivillage. of thispartof the continent.Justsouthof thatareIndian Oceansunrises sotypical to catch oneof thesubdued,pastel-toned it facesdueeast,offers plentyof chances ineach direction, you cansee andbecause The birding is also wonderful. are these lions, although more tospot. difficult Lichtenstein’smay see hartebeests andeven none).Withmore you daysaw same effort, the anothergrouponsafari visit, although aherdofcommon (wesaw 50-plusonarecent and raffes, elephant spottingsare increasingly While terrestrial wildlife-watching can’t Away fromthewildlife, thelovely and To the south of the reserve isthelanguidly To thesouthof thereserve Saadani
(www.saadanitanapa.com) lonelyplanet.com , NORTHEASTERN TANZANIA 159 ) This , a very , a very s (camping adult near Saadani
(r Tsh2000) /fax 022-277 3294; www /fax 022-277 3294; camp sites % (
(adult/child US$20/10) Mwango Guest House , including on the beach north of of north , including on the beach In Mkwaja village, at the northern edge of of edge at the northern village, In Mkwaja Saadani Safari Lodge There are several park are There Getting There & Away Getting There & Away Air is currently the only airline flying regu- Air is currently larly between Saadani and Zanzibar (about US$55, daily), though it’s also worth check- ing with ZanAir, sometimes operates which flightsscheduled between Zanzibar and the during the July near Saadani village airstrip high season. to September sufficient. is planned for the A new resthouse near future. the park, is usefulbasic but potentially option if you’re via bus. continuing north AIR flights near for charter airstrips are There Contact them, or any of lodges. the two of to ar- p356 on companies listed the charter is going or to see if a charter charters range with extra seats about sale. for Rates average US$200 one way from Zanzibar (20 minutes) and about US$300 from Dar es Salaam (30 Tropical plane. for a three-passenger minutes) sundowner deck, and a treehouse overlooking overlooking sundowner deck, and a treehouse unpre- is The atmosphere a small waterhole. and comfortable, and stafftentious unfail- are Safaris – including ingly friendly and helpful. safaris, vehicle boat safaris on the Wami River, to a nearby excursions walks and snorkelling sandbank per – cost US$45/25 per adult/child people. three with a minimum of excursion, old. years under six No children /child US$20/5) and along the Wami Saadani Safari Lodge need You’ll at Kinyonga. to be com- River self-sufficient.pletely also the faded There’s resthouse Tanapa need you’ll also to be self- for which village, only be paid for days you go into the park into the park days you go paid for only be old. six years under on safari. children No in Selous runs a lodge The same management Game Reserve, – and combination itineraries southern other destinations in also including com- and special Zanzibar-Saadani Tanzania arranged. be – can bination packages s/d full board US$285/480; .saadanilodge.com; is the only lodge retreat delightful beachside basewithin the park and a fine from which the nine cosy and Each of the area. to explore on is set cottages decorated directly tastefully restau- an open, thatched There’s the beach. on the sand, with a raised rant, also directly 022-211 0507, 022-211 0507, Saadani: An Saadani: An (saadani@saadani %
( •• Saadani National Park NORTHEASTERN TANZANIA
along the Wami along the . tucked away among tucked For a secluded tropical at Mkwaja, at the park’s at Mkwaja, park office boat trips (in open-sided vehicles, as (in open-sided vehicles, bandas – all with verandas and ham- – all with verandas by Dr Rolf Baldus, Doreen by Dr Rolf Baldus, Doreen village tours 8am-4pm) and h bandas wildlife drives
For information on Saadani’s history history information on Saadani’s For green-turtle nesting site. Park entry fees need entry fees Park nesting site. green-turtle including a boat safari along the Wami River; including a boat safari along the Wami River; US$40 for a half-day safari; US$40 for vehicle with a walking safari – all prices per person various ex- are minimum two people), there including guided walks to a nearby cursions, by soft sand paths. In addition to safaris sand in the paths. by soft for a full-day safari, park (US$80 per person mocks – are directly on the beach and reached and reached on the beach directly mocks – are deserted, driftwood-strewn beach. The well- beach. deserted, driftwood-strewn spaced treehouse-style treehouse-style the park’s just outside the coconut groves of stretch northern boundary on a lovely getaway, this wonderful and recommended this wonderful and recommended getaway, luxury camp is the place to come, with raised 0713-323318; www.saadani.com; s/d full board US$255/350, s/d all inclusive US$355/550) Sleeping & Eating Sleeping & Eating With a View Safari Lodge Tent in Tanzania’s southern parks and reserves), southern in Tanzania’s bush walks ties in Saadani are ties in Saadani are River, In addition to relaxing, walking along the walking along the In addition to relaxing, and observingbeach the main activi- birdlife, Activities Activities park’s informative website, www.saadanita website, park’s informative napa.com. at http://wildlife-programme.gtz.de/wild out the or check life/tourism_saadani.html, Broska and Kirsten Röttcher, available free free available Röttcher, Broska and Kirsten tanapa.com; tanapa.com; Tanzania National Parks Authority (Tanapa; (Tanapa; Authority Parks National Tanzania ), with the p77 see the camps. Saadani is administered by the by the administered the camps. Saadani is to May rainy season is difficult.to May If you do this time, you’ll probably it in during make and the beach around to the area be limited boat safaris. Although stays park officially the the March access during open year-round, per adult/child aged five to 15 years. There is There to 15 years. five aged per adult/child per day US$20 per person also an additional applies to those that usage doing river for fee cost US$10 per day. Campingcost US$10 per costs US$30/10 Information Information per per day costs US$20/5 to the park Entry guides and to 15 years, five aged adult/child Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book and wildlife, browse throughand wildlife, Future 13th to Tanzania’s Introduction Park National northern edge. NORTHEASTERN TANZANIA tion toSaadanithere isnopublictransport, butfromthejunc- the driver todropyouoff), Dar headingtowardsTanga orArushaandask Mandera junctionbybus(take anybusfrom togetSaadani at6am.It’salsoeasyenough to five tosixhours), departingDarat1pmand (Tsh5000,Dar esSalaam’sUbungobusstation Via publictransport,there’s adailybusfrom muddy duringtherainsand4WDisessential. about 25km.Somepartsof thisroute get quite continue northfromthevillage turn-off for on. ForTent WithaViewSafariLodge, north of thevillage) are about17kmstraight lage andSaadaniSafariLodge (about1km Forest). theZaraninge Saadanivil- through (about 30kmsouthalongaroad to Kisampa (Mvave Gate), there’s asignposted turn-off 60km toSaadani.Onceatthemainparkgate a4WD)andcontinueabout road (you’llneed Mandera beareastalongareasonable dirt of At ChalinzeontheArushahighway). north toMandera village (about50kmnorth Chalinze ontheMorogororoad,andthen hours for the journey. US$250 pervehicle, oneway.Allow4½tofive US$150and /from DaresSalaamforbetween All thelodges provide roadtransportto ROAD coast northandsouth of Pangani. in Saadaniorwiththelodges furtherupthe arrange aboatcharter withoneof thelodges andfewbeing rough travellers to doit.Better Hotel), butthejourneyisknownfor House (frombehind TemboSaadani andZanzibar regularlyLocal fishingboatssail between BOAT 160 From DaresSalaam,theroute isvia all inclusiveUS$220) The small,sociallyconscious TOURISMSPOTLIGHT:COMMUNITY KISAMPA distance to thecamp. other sideoftheriver, where youtheremaining staff will meetyouandtake Kisampa short as fartheWami River, where hasguards towatchyourcar. Kisampa There’s acanoe tothe into theparkforwildlife-watching. Ifyouhave yourownvehicle, youcan drive fromBagamoyo beach, althoughexcursionscanbearranged tothecoast(aboutanhour’sdrive away),aswell bathroom withhot-water showers. isn’t onthe bucket theotherSaadanicamps,Kisampa Unlike ‘stargazer’ tents, netted onthree sides. Eachtent hasamattress onthefloorandprivate outside hasbeenestablished.Thereaimed atpoverty alleviationandenvironmentalconservation are six health, schoolandotherinitiatives, project andalocalbeekeeping local communitytosupport localcommunitydevelopment.Forest Village and supporting fees paid by eachvisitorgotothe impressive ofthesurroundingZaraninge progress sinceits openinginpromotingconservation OTESENTNAI • Pnai TANZANIANORTHEASTERN ••Pangani , setoffonitsowninaprivate nature reserve borderingSaadanipark,hasmade Kisampa
( % 0756-316815, 0753-005442 boat pick-upswithsomeof the camps. youcanarrange although from Bagamoyo, paired, there’s nodirect roadaccesstoSaadani the parkmakes afine low-budget getaway. ing alongthebeach orvisitingthevillage, and camping ground,it’squite enjoyable justwalk- yourself attheTanapabase resthouse oradjacent advance withoneof thelodges. ifyou However, unlessyou’ve a safari, arranged something in port, there’s novehicle rental intheparkfor 11am, andfromMkwaja around 5am. running. Departures fromTanga are around River ferry soaskaroundlocallytobesure it’s breakdowns andthewhimsof thePangani the lodges. it’spronetofrequent However, where you could arrange tobecollected by hours), onthepark’snorthernedge, from Tangabetween andMkwaja (Tsh5000, five (1½ totwohours). There’s alsoadailybus lodges forabout US$130pervehicle each way Transfers cangenerally bearranged withthe years, thisroute isonlypossiblewith4WD. at Mligaji. much Although improved inrecent teak northerngate viaMkwaja tothereserve’s of and roadpaststands cashew,sisal a rough the Pangani River, thencontinuesouthalong with sporadically passing vehicles. beable toarrangeother thanwhatyoumight coastal dhowportstobecomeaterminuscoastal of from obscure beginningsasjustoneof many dilapidated Swahilioutpostof Pangani. Itrose About 55kmsouthof Tanga isthesmalland % PANGANI If you’ve arrived intheparkviapublictrans- Coming fromPangani, take theferry across Until theferry over theWamiRiver isre- 027 ; www.sanctuary-tz.com; perperson www.sanctuary-tz.com; lonelyplanet.com NORTHEASTERN TANZANIA 161 Pangani Pangani 8am-5pm Mon-Fri,
h ( , which attracts many water attracts many water , which on the riverfront organises rea- organises on the riverfront Pangani RiverPangani Use caution when walking along the when walking along the caution Use In September 1888, Pangani was the was the In September 1888, Pangani Orientation Orientation and sometimes other animals. It’s best ex- cruise via local dhow, which on a river plored For the hotels. by any of can be arranged climb up the bluff the river, on views over closed the southern bank to the currently Hotel. River Pangani Information Information The in Tanga. The closest banks are Cultural Tourism Program office 8am-noon Sat) cruises and river sonably priced town tours, Reserve Marine and to Maziwe excursions other local attractions, as well as to Saadani also organise the hotels All of National Park. Maziwe trips. to town. closebeaches Sights & Activities town of along the southern edge Meandering is the crocodiles birds, as well as populations of first town to rebel against the German co- town to rebel first administration in the Abushiri lonial Revolt ). ( above and with the market Pangani, of The centre land where bus stand, is on the corner of 2km meets the sea. River About the Pangani the is the main junction where here north of road from Muheza joins the coastal road, the bus if out of get you should and where arriving from Muheza and staying at you’re town. of north the beaches •• Pangani NORTHEASTERN TANZANIA
THE ABUSHIRI REVOLT REVOLT THE ABUSHIRI associated is usually colonial rebellions, major one of East Africa’s Abushiri revolt, Although the a young German, catalyst came in 1884, when was its birthplace. The Pangani with Bagamoyo, (Deutsch-Ostafrikanische Company the German East Africa founded Gesellschaft or Peters, Carl effort years, in an trade, Peters inland caravan Over the next few to tap into the lucrative DOAG). the take could over the DOAG Sultan of Zanzibar that from the extractmanaged to agreement neither the sultan’s However, sultan’s mainland domains. of customs duties in the administration DOAG When the to the idea. amenable majority of locals were nor the in Pangani representative of exploded. Under the leadership raised its flag next tensions to that of the sultan, simmering Abushiri bin Salim al-Harth,an Afro-Arab trader named army, including many a loosely organised a series of fierce power struggles that the Germans, igniting ousted of the sultan’s own guards, continued in other port Germans only managed to subdue the revolt the coast. The towns along the imposition of a naval blockade arrival of reinforcements, the and the after a year later over went bankrupt and the colonial capital the DOAG of Abushiri. In the wake of the revolt, hanging to Dar es Salaam. from Bagamoyo was moved Today, the town makes an intriguing step an intriguing step Today, the town makes
diagonally opposite Pangani on the southern Pangani diagonally opposite a 15th-century grave where the river, bank of been found. has House, built a decade later. Probably several Probably House, built a decade later. centuries older is the settlement at Bweni, Omani trader. More recent is the Customs recent More Omani trader. it was a linchpin betweenit was a linchpin the Zanzibar sul- and it routes, tanate and the inland caravan slave was during this era that the riverfront is oldest building depot was built. Pangani’s 1810 and was to dates the old boma, which a wealthy of residence originally the private tively modern settlement. It rosetively to promi- nence during the mid-19th century, when Compared with Tongoni, Kaole and other and other with Tongoni, Kaole Compared is a rela- settlements Pangani along the coast, History History Indian traders. More of a draw for many a draw for many of More Indian traders. running north and the beaches are travellers also the best places are town, which south of base yourself. to about three blocks of the river, where you’ll where the river, blocks of about three see some carved doorways, buildings from the German colonial era and old houses of back into history, especially in the area within back into history, especially in the area to the interior began from here. By the end of By the end of began from here. to the interior to Tanga the 19th century, focus had shifted again faded and Dar es Salaam and Pangani into anonymity. were established in the area, and several and several established in the area, were exploratory journeys European missions and and Mombasa. Sisal and copra plantations the caravan route from Lake Tanganyika, a from Lake Tanganyika, route the caravan and ivory, and export point for slaves major between ports Bagamoyo the largest one of lonelyplanet.com NORTHEASTERN TANZANIA recommendable place,withnofrillsbutde- Tsh1000) shore istiny tions, and thecamphas itsown tion about excursions andonwardconnec- proprietors are very helpfulwithinforma- north of Peponi complete thepicture. The mangrove rich stands with birdlife tothe (you canrent equipmentatPeponi) and restaurant, anearbyreef forsnorkelling beachside pool(forPeponi guestsonly).A camp site, cleanablutionblocksandasmall recentlybeen refurbished –plusashady person chalets –all double of Pangani. Inaddition tosimple,breezy on along,goodbeach about19kmnorth in expansive bougainvillea-dotted grounds This relaxing, traveller-friendly place isset adultbedsinfamily bandasUS$20; bandas US$50,extra campingperpersonUS$4,s&d www.peponiresort.com; Peponi Holiday Resort NORTH OFPANGANI atthenorthernend petrol station of town. meals. It’snearthebeach after –turnright the doubles withnets,fanandbathroom, Tsh7000) front road,justeastof the Customs House. cent roomssharing facilities.It’sonthewater- without bathroomTsh3000/4500) &Lodge InnRestaurant View New River TOWN CENTRE town. of at oneof thebeaches runningnorthorsouth Almost allvisitors tothePangani area stay Sleeping &Eating baobab. occasional vegetation coastal andtheing withdense oflong, withstands coconutpalmsalternat- are generally andlovely. deserted They’re Cottages, andtothesoutharoundUshongo – Beach Holiday ResortandCapricorn town –especiallytothenorthnearPeponi excursions. hotel land, butapicniclunch isincludedinmost tide; there’s nofoodordrinkontheis- spotted. Maziwe canonlybevisited atlow Dolphins favour thearea andare frequently waters.ling inthesurroundingcrystal-clear 162 Stopover GuestHouse Stopover The Shimmering inthesunabout10kmoff- OTESENTNAI • Pnai TANZANIANORTHEASTERN ••Pangani Abetter bet,withsimplebutgood , an idyllic sand islandwithsnorkel-, anidyllicsand beaches bandas, Maziwe Marine Reserve Reserve Marine Maziwe runningnorthandsouthof there are larger several five- (
bandas % ( 0784-202962, 0713-540139; Thisisthecheapest % 0784-498458; dwith andchalets have (Jamhuri St;s/d (Jamhuri
(admission mashua s
) tents of thesortyoufindinupmarket safari in ambience,thisplacehasarange of raised classy, low-key self-catering placeonthe classy, low-key self-catering bathroom. There are alsosomesmallstone are nicelyfurnishedandcomewithprivate directlylow cliff overlooking thewater. All aroundexpansivecamps, set groundsona is .com; s/dbandasUS$30/50,luxurytentsfromUS$70/140; organised. be canbelow. Walkingtours cruises andsunset ing thewater, withswimmingpossiblejust away isarestaurant-bar gazebo overlook- of themainjunction.Five minutes’ walk inlandandjustnorth slightly galows set vated placehasspacioustwin-bedded bun- US$60/85) www.tingatingalodge.com; campingperpersonUS$4,d/tr and your bargaining abilities. Tsh25,000, dependingonroadconditions walk. Taxis fromTanga costTsh15,000 to Tsh800 fromTanga), fromwhere it’sashort the Peponi (Tsh500 turn-off fromPangani, driver todropyounearKigombevillage at Pangani–Tanga route andaskthe coastal Takeseason. anybusrunningalongthe the inplies withyou,andifyou’llbestaying curio shop. Ifyou’re camping, bringsup- andanice dhow)forsailing (motorised is atinyinternet café andaclothing boutique. beans intherefrigerator. Alsoon thegrounds of homemade jamandtop-notch localcoffee from acoolerand ice ontheBBQdecktoajar isoverlookedanything andthat nodetail – of theirwaytobesure you’re notlackingfor andthehosts goout or forcookingyourself, overlooking the water, either forcatered BBQs away fromitallforawhile. There’s agrillarea feel. It’sanideal choice ifyou’re lookingtoget have plentyof ventilation andanatural,open tops, akitchen andmosquitonetting,all own covered porch, internet accessforlap- dotted withbaobabtrees. cottage hasits Each inlarge,lessly cleancottages set lushgrounds offers three spacious,well-equippedandspot- beach justsouthof Peponi HolidayResort s/dUS$60/84; .capricornbeachcottages.com; about 3kmnorthof the main junction. andarange ofsea, excursions. It’ssignposted restaurant, asundownerdeckoverlooking the bandas Mkoma Bay Tinga Tinga Lodge Capricorn BeachCottages Capricorn bandas, ) Architecturally eclecticandsubdued sharingbathroomfacilities,agood Thisdown-to-earth,recently reno- bookinadvanceduringhigh
( % Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels 027-263 0000;www.mkomabay
( % 027-264 6611,0784-403553;
( % 0784-632529; www i ) This NORTHEASTERN TANZANIA 163 at about 6.30am, so you can connect with at about 6.30am, so you can connect with bus. It’s also possible to a Tanga–Arusha Muheza (Tsh1000), from Pangani reach connections to Tanga are there from where and or Korogwe, but the road is worse connections sporadic. nearby destinations and may be willing to stop is sufficient. if demand in Pangani BOAT and betweenDhows sail Pangani regularly coast of Mkokotoni, on the northwestern Better with the lodges is to check Zanzibar. also arrange which several of near Pangani, to Zanzibar’s Stone Town from dhow charters about US$150; ones to try include Peponi and Emayani. Beach Resort, The Tides ROAD and The best connections between Pangani coastal road, via the rehabilitated are Tanga 1½ buses daily (Tsh2000, with about five the rainy height except during the of hours), is from Pangani season. departure The first moon location, beachside retreat or family retreat moon location, beachside under six stay for free), destination (children especially in com- it’s ideal and good value, places elsewhere parison to similar-quality private also arranges on the coast. The lodge trips to Maziwe, snorkelling honeymooners’ champagne cool box, with a waiter, complete from Pangani and all the trimmings. Pick-ups as can transfers organised, can be and Tanga to/from Saadani. Getting There & Away AIR and between Ushongo an airstrip There’s flights. ZanAir, for charter Coastal Pangani the best lines and Tropical Air are Aviation flights scheduled to with, as all have to check billowing mosquito nets, large bathrooms bathrooms nets, large mosquito billowing night, At can you décor. subdued and stylish, the sand onto at the to gaze out directly step to sleep skies or be lulled by the star-studded There on the shore. the waves crashing of cot- family decorated also two beautifully are one area, settages main lodge away from the and is ideal for pool has a plunge which of the Other attractions include honeymooners. and staff areas, bar and restaurant beachside you’d like, excursions can sort out whatever Reserve, Marine including dhows to Maziwe and River, Zanzibar or along the Pangani fishing. For a honey- and offshore inshore
) This Laid- makuti i and all and all , on a hill on a hill This budget This budget •• Pangani NORTHEASTERN TANZANIA bandas 027-264 0755, 027-250 % ( 0784-543700; www.thebeach % (
(palm-thatching) 027-264 0844, 0713-325812; www (outrigger canoe), (outrigger and excur- % (
makuti ngalawa The Tides The Tides Emayani Beach Lodge Beach Crab Resort wonderful, with huge beds surrounded by beds surrounded by wonderful, with huge prime seaside with spacious, breezy location The sevenbungalows and excellent cuisine. bungalows – all lined up amid the coconut – are along the beach palms and vegetation .thetideslodge.com; s/d half board US$135/220; .thetideslodge.com; a place mixes and intimate unpretentious Pangani can be arranged. Meals are available available are Meals can be arranged. Pangani (breakfast/dinner US$5/12). sions to Maziwe Marine Reserve, Pangani Reserve, Marine Pangani sions to Maziwe from Pick-ups in the area. and elsewhere available to rent, and staff sails to rent, can arrange available on a shades that you can pull down in the evening. Small kayaks and windsurfing equipment are tirely of of tirely except for open (no locks), very are of The Tides, has a row of rustic bungalows has a row of The Tides, of made en- strung out along the sand. All are 1741; www.emayanilodge.com; s/d/tr US$60/86/105) 1741; www.emayanilodge.com; 2km north about back Emayani, on the beach from Tanga to Mkwaja village near Saadani) near Saadani) village to Mkwaja from Tanga from Pangani. or south. Pick-ups can be arranged from Mwera from Mwera south. Pick-ups can be arranged (about 7km away and along the bus route signs to The Tides and continue about 1.2km and continue about 1.2km signs to The Tides rant. Diving (there’s a PADI dive instructor instructor dive a PADI rant. Diving (there’s windsurfing, hiking and other ac- on-site), access, follow planned. For road tivities are for campers and guests staying in the per- for campers bar-restau- and a beachside manent tents, beach, and self-containedbeach, blocks clean ablution are There just behind. 1km south of The Tides, it’s set to open soon it’s set to open soon The Tides, 1km south of and for rent) tents with camping (including just in from the permanent safari-style tents and backpacker-friendly place was under place was under and backpacker-friendly About research. of construction at the time crab.com; camping per person US$3, s/d safaricrab.com; camping per person tent with- US$64) out bathroom US$15/24, d bandas and you’ll have most spots to yourself. most spots and you’ll have dependent, and apart from the area in the im- the area dependent, and apart from it’s clean, village, Ushongo vicinity of mediate south of Pangani around Ushongo makes a a makes Ushongo around Pangani south of isn’t tide- Swimming getaway. wonderful Though rarely featuring on tourist itinerar- featuring Thoughrarely 15km about beach palm-fringed ies, the long, SOUTH OF PANGANI PANGANI SOUTH OF Homemade bread, fresh seafood, cheese, fresh wine bread, Homemade at available essentials gourmet and other are premises. the on a small deli Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book NORTHEASTERN TANZANIA Pangani, allthehotels there dopick-ups downward. Today,much of thetown’sin- inthe1970s,Tanga’slapse economyspiralled soundly trounced by the Germans. in which poorlyprepared Britishtroopswere in WilliamBoyd’s novel, ill-fated of Battle Tanga (later memorialised nomic life. InWWI,Tanga wasthesite of the the centrethe crop,withsisal of localeco- the world’sleadingproducerandexporter of tothearea,sisal andTanzania soonbecame also introduced TheGermans with thesea. line linkingMoshiandtheKilimanjaroregion harbour aspartof theconstructionof arailway late 19thcentury,whobuiltupthetownand came withthearrivalof inthe theGermans who visited here. Thereal boom,however, 1850s, accordingtoexplorer Richard Burton, over of about 70,000lbsannuallyinthelate was themaincommoditytraded,withaturn- point fortradecaravans totheinterior. Ivory in theearlytomid-19thcenturyasastarting Shirazi era,thetownfirst cameintoitsown atTangaably sizedsettlement sinceatleastthe thereAlthough areason- hasprobablybeen History board tothebeaches around Pangani. andisaspring- route toor fromMombasa, detour tovisit,itmakes aconvenient stopen While there’s littlereason tomake aspecial atmospheresemicolonial andfadedcharm. placewithasleepy, size, it’sapleasant-enough hind DaresSalaamandMwanza. Despite its largest anditsthird-largest seaport townbe- of market,lapse thesisal isTanzania’s second- Tanga, amajor industrialcentre untilthecol- % TANGA (Tsh200). day the totake amotorcycle)throughout enough and there are boats(large smallpassenger daily (Tsh100/4000 perperson/vehicle), 6.30amand6.30pm runs intheorybetween Mwera with the lodges. south. It’stheneasytoarrange apick-upfrom at about7amgoingnorthand3.30pm Mwera(6kmfromUshongo)that passes daily the northernedge of SaadaniNationalPark) Tangaa dailybusbetween andMkwaja (at from bothPangani andTanga. There’s also 164 As market theworldsisal begantocol- The vehicle ferry over thePangani River For Ushongo andthebeaches southof 027 /pop250,000 OTESENTNAI • Tna TANZANIANORTHEASTERN ••Tanga An Ice-Cream War ), Sat & Sun) 9pm Mon-Thu, 9am-2pm&4-8pm 9am-noon &2-8pmFri, Changes cashandtravellerscheques;ATM card (Visa only). h MONEY MD Pharmacy MEDICAL SERVICES Kaributanga.com Café Impala Internet ACCESSINTERNET some places to eat. Kazone withafew section, hotelsRas and parallel tothewater) isthequietandsuburban reached Rd(which runs byfollowingHospital Aboutis thebusstation. 2kmeastof town, of therailwaytracksinNgamiani section south of here (Tsh1500 andsouth inataxi), and iseasilycovered onfoot.About 1.5km The towncentre alongthewaterfront isset Orientation the Usambara Mountains. stretching westwards alongtheplainsedging vastplantations you’llstillsee although economy isjustashadow of itsformerself, frastructure abandonedandthe hasbeen for astroll are around Jamhuri Park overlook- era architecture. Themostinteresting areas apart fromitsatmosphericcolonial- ‘sights’, Despite itssize,Tanga hasremarkably few Sights &Activities Independence Ave near Jamhuri Park. takeIn theevenings, care aroundPortRdand andbestavoided.The harbourarea isseedy Dangers &Annoyances Tayodea InformationCentre Tourist TOURIST INFORMATION Park,eastern cornerofJamhuri just offIndependence Ave. postoffice Main POST NBC CRDB 12.45pm Sat&Sun)Opposite the market. Mkwakwani Rd; excursions; look for the small kiosk nearthe excursions; lookforthesmallkiosk post office. guidesforlocal 5pm) InformationandEnglish-speaking 4350; cnrIndependenceAve & Usambara St; Information 9am-7pm) (cnr Bank & Sokoine Sts) Just west of the market. (cnrBank&SokoineSts)Justwestofthemarket. (Tower St)ATM cardonly). (Visa (Tower ( h % (IndependenceAve) Nearthesouth- 8am-12.45pm & 2-6pm Mon-Fri, to 8am-12.45pm &2-6pmMon-Fri, (Sokoine St;perhrTsh800; 027-264 4067;cnrSokoineSt& (SokoineSt;perhrTsh800; lonelyplanet.com ( % h 027-264 h 8.30am- 9am-
NORTHEASTERN TANZANIA Custom St Custom 165 Hotel (300m) Ras To Panori Kazone 500 m 7 17 200 m Shi'a 4 2 21
Mosque 10
11
Ring St Ring Usambara St Usambara 027-264 4929, 0.1 miles
Arab Rd D %
Independence Ave ( 23 A2 D3 D3 C3 C3 3
India St
18 19 20 21 22 23 Guinea Rd Guinea 12
(Hospital Rd, Ras Kazone; 15 Amboni Rd Amboni
Sokoine (Market) St
9 1 13 Tower St Tower 14
Eckernförde Ave 0 0 0 0 0.3 miles
5 18 19 Rd Mkwakwani
Market Bank St Bank 22 Bombo Hospital , about 400m southwest of the 400m southwest of , about 6 Park A welcome addition to Tanga’s A welcome addition to Tanga’s Jamhuri Stadium Patwas Restaurant...... SD Supermarket...... 11) Tanga Yacht Club...... (see Boats to Toten Island...... Coastal Aviation...... Taxi Rank...... Scandinavian Bus Office...... C3 Raskazone Swimming Club....(see 10) Raskazone Swimming TRANSPORT
MakongoroRd
D1 D1 D2 D2 D3 A3 D3 Bombo Hospital Rd Hospital 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17
Management is very helpful and can arrange helpful and can arrange is very Management information on Tanga. and provide excursions It’s about 300m in from Hospital Rd; the turn- Inn by about 500m before off is signposted under the Sea. Camping for children is free age. of six years it’s a great spot to meet resident expats and get expats and get spot to meet resident it’s a great the lowdown on what’s happening in town. Raskazone Swimming Club admission Tsh500) and showers club, has a small beach, yacht and meals. rooms changing Sleeping BUDGET Kiboko Restaurant, Bar & Campsite 0784-469292; [email protected]; Amboni Rd; camping per person US$4) for rent), (including tents yard green in a large ablution blocks, laundry hot-water spotless service, bar and power points, a well-stocked Reasonably priced garden restaurant. a great per double). US$40 planned (about rooms are overlooking the water. It’s a pleasant place to the water. overlooking afternoons, and, especially on weekend relax
accommodation scene, with secure camping accommodation scene, with secure 8 Swahili St Swahili
Custom St Custom
ὈὈὈ at
Usambara St Usambara
Ring St Ring
Arab Rd Guinea Rd Guinea
B Mkwakwani Rd Mkwakwani Raskazone Swimming Club...... Raskazone Swimming Tanga Yacht Club...... Campsite...... Mkonge Hotel...... Ocean Breeze Hotel...... Silverado...... Food Palace...... Kiboko Restaurant & Bar...... (see 13) Inn by the Sea...... Bar & Kiboko Restaurant, D2 SLEEPING EATING
Eckernförde Ave Tanga Bay •• Tanga NORTHEASTERN TANZANIA See Enlargement has a small, clean C3 D2 D3 D3 D3 D2 C3 D2 Askarimonument 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 , and the park and
Ngamiani Railway St Railway Train Station (Closed)
Library Park
Uhuru Rd Taifa
Port Rd 20 (Island of the Dead) with (Island of Park (www.tangayachtclub.com; Hospital
Ring St Jamhuri
clock tower
Independence Ave
Sokoine (Market) St
Offices AC Rd Mombasa Cathedral
ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ St Anthony's
16
Government Kilimanjaro Rd Kilimanjaro Toten island Pangani (50km) Clock Tower...... Centre...... Askari Monument...... Cemetery...... (see 8) CRDB Bank...... Impala Internet Café...... Kaributanga.com...... Main Post Office...... NBC Bank...... MD Pharmacy...... C3 Tayodea Tourist Information INFORMATION SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Chumbangeni To Airstrip (2.5km); Muheza (37km); Dar es Salaam (355km) (12km); Horohoro (70km); Mombasa (170km) To Amboni Caves (8km); Galanos Sulphur Springs Tongoni Ruins (20km); To Bus Station (200m); Tanga Yacht Club Yacht Tanga Directly offshore is the small, mangrove- offshore Directly TANGA 2 3 1 Goan St Peponi Holiday Resort (30km);
Mombasa Rd Chumbangeni St the overgrown ruins of a mosque (dating at ruins of the overgrown beach, showers and a good restaurant-bar area area and a good restaurant-bar showers beach, Rd, Ras Kazone; day admission Tsh2000) tried this. Better an excursion organise is to information office. through the tourist over, although we’ve only heard unhappy tales although we’ve over, we know who have travellers from the few and it’s only worth a look if you have lots and it’s only worth a look if you have boats on the fishing are There extra time. of you the harbour that can take side of western mainland. Its ruins are less accessible and less less accessible mainland. Its ruins are atmospheric than those at nearby Tongoni, apparently long history ended in the late 19th long history ended in the late apparently the to century, when its inhabitants moved the island, indicating that it may have been the island, indicating that it may have The island’s settled era. during the Shirazi 19th-century gravestones. Fifteenth-century Fifteenth-century 19th-century gravestones. also been found on fragments have pottery the end of Sokoine St. the end of ringed least to the 17th century) and some 18th- and German-built German-built surrounding the cemetery ing the harbour, near which you’ll find the old ing the harbour, near which Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book NORTHEASTERN TANZANIA Sokoine Sts;rwithfan/air-conTsh7000/12,000) Tsh2000; public transport),thisisadecentmidrange dential area about3kmfromthecentre (no Tsh1500; south of the market. good-valuetasty, local-stylemeals.It’s just over theyears, plusfresh juicesandlassis, have helpedoutcountlessfirst-time visitors friendly placewithvery helpfulowners who excellent fresh yogurt,milk and cheese. to theTanga Fresh outlet,where youcanget the region –asklocalstopointouttheway duces yogurtandmilkthatissoldthroughout Tanga isthehomeof Tanga Fresh, which pro- Eating view).There’ssea also a restaurant. rooms intown(worththeextramoneyfora had afaceliftandnowhasamongthenicest a grassylawnoverlooking hasrecently thesea, US$60/75; HospitalRd;s/dUS$55/70,withseaview kaributanga.com; bed nets) and TV. no quito nettinginthewindows(although generally quietroomswithminifridge, mos- Rd &ChumbangeniSt;rinclbreakfast Tsh40,000; and follow the signposts. meals. Take Kazone RdeasttoRas Hospital andtasty outdoor restaurant withslowservice andan new wing,allwithnets,fanandTV, choice. There are clean,adequate roomsinthe a vated wingTsh18,000/22,000, newwingTsh25,000/30,000; s/doldwingTsh15,000/18,000, Kazone; line.co.tz; oldreno- Ras Hotel Panori MIDRANGE two hours. price. Meals canbearranged; allowabout they’realthough valueforthe fairenough Kazone,of butvery Ras run-downrooms, waterside onthesouthwestern edge setting r Tsh12,000; centre. town and oneof thebetter budget choices inthe many have nets.It’sjusteastof themarket, for theprice–allhave bathroomsand here are fadedandno-frills butquite OK 166 Patwas Restaurant Mkonge Hotel Silverado Inn bytheSea Hotel Ocean Breeze Food Palace ) Ifyoudon’tmindthelocation,inaresi- OTESENTNAI • Tna TANZANIANORTHEASTERN ••Tanga h h a lunch Mon, breakfast, lunch&dinner Tue-Sun) a 8am-8pm Mon-Sat)
( ) % TheimposingMkonge Hotel, on
( ) % Inn by the Sea hasaprime InnbytheSea ( 027-264 6054,5259;cnrMombasa %
(
027-264 6816;SokoineSt; mealsfrom % ( 027-264 6044;panori@africaon %
( 027-264 3440;mkongehotel@ % (Mkwakwani Rd;mealsfrom 027-264 4614;HospitalRd; 027-264 4445;cnrTower& Anunassuming, a Rooms Clean, ) tween Tanga,tween and DaresSalaam,Zanzibar cheap Indian meals. admission Tsh500; mealsTsh2000-4000; Getting There&Away SD Supermarket SwimmingClub Raskazone crowd. expat andcatchand evenings, upwithTanga’s cream. It’sagoodspottorelax onweekends meals, includingicedowner deckandtasty ting, withasmallswimmingbeach, asun- The yacht clubhasatranquilwaterside set- 11am-3pm&6-10.30pmSat,11am-9pmSun)Mon-Fri, meals fromTsh5000; admissionTsh2000, Kazone; yachtclub.com; HospitalRd,Ras order. on plus chocolate andotherindulgences truffles meat kebabs). there’s Fordessert, icecream, and sandwiches with green kingfishcurry, peppersauce, portions of such delicaciesasprawns huge menufeaturing delicious a well-stocked bar,aspotlesskitchen anda 10,000) AmboniRd;mealsTsh5000-469292; [email protected]; tarian selections. Indian snacksandmeals,includingsomevege- and near thecornerof Makwakwani Rd. andtherailway station, the stadium tween four hours) from itsoffice onRingSt,be- parting at8amin each direction (Tsh8000, tion ison To/from DaresSalaam,thefastest connec- BUS p150. see Tanga between times weekly andWete; ship, butalsotakes three passengers –sails The unreliable BOAT taxi). a of townalongtheKorogweroad(Tsh2000 in Shi’a mosque. The airstrip isabout 3kmwest office isnearthemobile-phonetowerand esSalaamUS$70/100/130).Its /Zanzibar/Dar Pemba Tanga (one-waybetween andPemba ( There are on dailyflights AIR market. % Tanga Yacht Club Also recommended: &Bar Restaurant Kiboko 027-264 6060,0713-566485;offIndiaSt) A great spotwithshadygardenseating, Scandinavian (BankSt)Forself-caterers; behindthe h Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels Mudasi mishikaki
10.30am-2.30pm &6.30-10.30pm ( % 027-264 4246;www.tanga –primarilyacargo
(Hospital Rd, Ras Kazone; Kazone; (HospitalRd,Ras (
% ( % (marinated, grilled 027-264 4337) 027-264 4929,0784- Coastal Aviation h kiboko dinner) Good, kiboko -sized , de- be-
NORTHEASTERN TANZANIA 167 Tongoni Tongoni towards towards from Tanga from Tanga . The ruins – dalla-dalla 8am-5pm) h Dalla-dallas (admission Tsh1000; (admission Tsh1000;
The unsignposted turn-off for the springs is The unsignposted The caves are about 8km northwest of of 8km northwest about are The caves run as far as Amboni village, from where from where run as far as Amboni village, on foot. you’ll need to continue Tongoni Ruins Basking coastal in the south 20km sun about but atmos- the time-ravaged are Tanga of pheric and historically intriguing ruins barbed rusted surrounded by are which and set between overlooking wire baobabs and coastline – include nearby mangroves Galanos Sulphur Springs Springs Galanos Sulphur has around the caves If bending and crawling stiff left you feeling consider in the joints, visit to thesefinishing the day with a green, sulphur springs nearby. They take odoriferous sisal who planter their name from a Greek for potential their to recognise was the first in a long day of the rigours after relaxation the fields. Now, although still in use, they are their supposedly unappealing despite quite therapeutic properties. 2km road, about along the Tanga–Mombasa and just caves, for the the turn-off north of it’s From here, crossing the Sigi River. after about 2km further. once you get past the litter at the entrance. entrance. at the the litter past get once you wear closed and along a torch, Bring shoes to needing off to pick bat droppings your avoid feet afterwards. ride from town. Otherwise, an easy bicycle a taxi a or take charter turn-off at the off and get Amboni village of- is near the forestry which for the caves, foot to 2.5km on it’s about From here, fice. west of stretch the caves Kiomoni village; Guides River. Kiomoni along the Mkulumuzi or at the tourist of- locally can be arranged in Tanga. fice Tanga off the Tanga–Mombasa road, and road, and off the Tanga–Mombasa Tanga run along run along are one of the the one of are dalla-dallas •• Around Tanga NORTHEASTERN TANZANIA (admission Tsh3000)
caves
Together with Mafia, Kilwa and other now sleepy settlements along the coast, Tongoni (Place Together with Mafia, Kilwaalong the coast, Tongoni (Place and other now sleepy settlements of Ruins) was once a major port in the network of Swahili that linked trading towns the gold, century, when it had with the Orient. Its heyday was in the 15th and ivory markets of Africa slave da Gama, whose ship ran aground portits own sultan and was an inadvertent of call for Vasco with the century, Tongoni had declined to the point of nonexistence, By the early 18th here. 18th century, Portuguese In the late disruption of local trade networks and the fall of Mombasa. by Shirazis fleeing Kilwa than There’), (who named it Sitahabu,it was resettled Here or ‘Better shortly declining completely thereafter. before and experienced a brief revival, PLACE OF RUINS OF RUINS PLACE It’s possible to visit a small portion of the It’s possible to visit a small portion of
To Pangani (Tsh2000, 1½ hours), there there 1½ hours), (Tsh2000, To Pangani To Arusha, there are at least three departures departures three at least are there To Arusha, cave network, which is quite interesting, interesting, is quite network, which cave long – rumours of them reaching all the way all the way them reaching of long – rumours Mombasa persist. to that their extent was much smaller – with smaller – with was much that their extent only 900m studied the caves of the largest during the 1950s as a hide-out from the during the 1950s as a hide-out from the British. Although a 1994 survey concluded traditionally believed to house various spirits, and worship and continue to be a place of originally thought to were ritual. The caves said and are up to 200km or more, extend Mau Mau been used by the Kenyan to have for anyone with an interest in spelunking. in spelunking. for anyone with an interest bats, they were Now home to thousands of most extensive subterranean systems in East systems subterranean most extensive Africa and an intriguing off-beat excursion Long the subject of local legend, these lime- local legend, Long the subject of stone AROUND TANGA AROUND TANGA Amboni Caves Ras Kazone. ist information office can help with bicycle ist information office Occasional rental. junction of Usambara and India Sts. The tour- and India Sts. The Usambara junction of Getting Around Getting Around taxi ranks at various places around are There station,town, including at the bus and at the are small buses throughoutare the day along the coastal road. departing by 7am, or you can take any Arusha any Arusha 7am, or you can take departing by at Mombo. bus and transfer seven hours). To Lushoto (Tsh4000, three to three (Tsh4000, seven Lushoto To hours). buses direct a couple of are there four hours), (Tsh7000, five hours). five (Tsh7000, between 6am and 11am (Tsh12,000, about Otherwise, Raha Leo departs Tanga every every Otherwise, Raha Leodeparts Tanga between 3pm 7am and about hours few lonelyplanet.com Ocean Rd between the town centre and and Ocean Rd between the town centre NORTHEASTERN TANZANIA posite formore There details). are direct leading uptowardsthemarket (see op- from themainjunctionalong the road known as ‘new’Korogwe, are thebus stand port junction.In the western partof town, Korogwe isprimarilyof interest asatrans- KOROGWE Tanga (Tsh1000, 45 minutes). Muhezaand thedaybetween throughout to Lushoto (Tsh2500, three hours), and dailyinthemorningsfrom Muhezabuses roomswithTV self-contained and meals. five-minute has walkfromthebusstand, nearthemainjunctionanda the highway highway. main roofed isabout 1kmuphillfromthe houses, market andsmallcorrugated metal- stalls area, dominated byrowsof rickety wooden palms. Muheza’smainmarket andtrading tensive broken of plantations bystands sisal and surroundinglandscapesmarked byex- a humidclimate, strongSwahiliinfluences much part of Tanga thecoastal region, with wellinland,it’sculturallyveryAlthough Pangani branch themainTanga off highway. andto the roadstoAmaniNature Reserve Muheza isa scrappyjunctiontownwhere from about Tsh12,000 fortheroundtrip. Taxiscan bedifficult. fromtowncharge asfindingaliftbackintheafternoon start, for on foot,thefaredge of thevillage (ask board). Theruinsare about 1kmfurthereast get outattheturn-off (lookforarustysign- wards Pangani roadand alongthecoastal ing fromthe18thor 19th century. recent, and largely unremarkable tombsdat- placed. There are alsoabout twodozenmore andofferingporcelain vases bowlswere recessed areas onsomewhere decorative the toppled totheground,youcanstillsee mostofAlthough thepillars have longsince p167). was amajor tradingport(see coastal the 14thor15thcentury,whenTongoni and thetombsare estimated todate from Africancoast.Boththemosque on theEast tombs, thelargest collectionof such tombs about 20overgrown Shirazi pillar-style the crumblingremains of amosque and 168 MUHEZA Buses to Amani Nature Reserve leave toAmaniNatureBuses Reserve Elephant GuestHouse To get here, take anyvehicle headingto- ‘magofu’ SMAA ONAN USAMBARA MOUNTAINS ). It’sworthgetting anearly (r Tsh10,000)
, justinfrom Tsh30,000/35,000; 0668; mainhighway;campingperpersonTsh10,000, s/d dy walks. day ofspot anddoingyourexploringasaseries king fromvillage tovillage orrelaxing inone trek-easily possibletospendatleastaweek influx of fancy4WDsinnearbyArusha. It’s untouched sceneand bytheboomingsafari from onevillage tothenext,andislargely bustling, colourfulmarket daysthatrotate Rural life here revolves around acycleof are oneof northeastern Tanzania’s delights. paths andpicturesque villages, the Usambaras coolclimate,With theirwidevistas, winding USAMBARA MOUNTAINS of large plasticanimalsat the entrance. fruit juicestogoandanicecollection Ceres (meals fromTsh4000). Italsohaschilled showers andacookingarea, andarestaurant joining large grassycampsite withhotwater stop withsurprisinglydecentrooms,anad- hospital. its and honeyproduction,andits beekeeping road branches downto Southwestoftrain station. town,arough east is‘old’Korogwewiththenowdefunct accommodationoptions.Tothe and several Kilindi, Zigua and Mbugu. per sqkm.Themaintribesare theSambaa, with anaverage of more than300people oped. Bothranges are populated, densely Usambaras, aroundAmani,are lessdevel- the better roadnetwork,whiletheeastern Lushoto, are themostaccessibleandhave wide valley.Thewestern Usambaras, around vided intotworanges bya4km- separated Arcchainancient Eastern (see p74 ), are di- Motel White Parrot White Motel The Usambaras, which are partof the Tuesday Soni Mlalo Lushoto Bumbuli from milesaroundtopeddletheirwares: days,whentraderscome onfootmarket onLocal villagesare especiallycolourful DAYS MARKET Tuesday andFriday Wednesday Sunday Saturday, with a smaller market on Saturday,withasmallermarket a ) isalarge roadsiderest
( % Handeni 027-264 1068, lonelyplanet.com , knownfor NORTHEASTERN TANZANIA A 8am- 169 027-264 027-264 h
( Zigi Rest (r without (r without /fax 027-264 % ( % ( reserve is possible at both Zigi information centre runs two guesthouses: the at Zigi. Both are reasonably reasonably at Zigi. Both are on sale at the information at Amani and the is at Amani. The outrageously is at Amani. The outrageously (per person US$5)
Amani Conservation Centre (r Tsh10,000) (r Tsh10,000)
at the old Station Master’s House with at the old Station Master’s Most trails take between one and three betweenMost trails take one and three The The main office for the way, except for the last 7km, where the road’s way, except for the last 7km, where (4WD only). There rocky and in bad shape are is at least one truck daily between Muheza and continuing on two hours), Amani (Tsh2000, 9km beyond Amani. to Kwamkoro, about beds) and marginally more comfortable, while more beds) and marginally bet- are the setting and rustic atmosphere (breakfast/lunch/dinner at Amani. Meals ter at both, available are Tsh1500/3000/3000) though idea to bring fruit and it’s a good snacks as a supplement. The Zigi Rest House cen- the Zigi information opposite is directly the Amani Conservation To reach tre. Centre Rest House, continue straight once in Amani past the main fork, ignoring the ‘resthouse’ signpost, to the reserve The resthouse office. the office. is next to Getting There & Away Muheza along a Amani is 32km northwest of is in fair condition the entire dirt road which hours. They are detailed in the booklet, They are hours. and Drive in Amani Routes Guide to Trails Reserve, Nature reserve at Zigi and at the in office centre bird species you Amani. Among the unique sun- banded green Amani and may see are oriole. green-headed birds, and the Sleeping & Eating Camping supplies. and and Amani with your own tent 0313; [email protected]) Amani Conservation Centre Rest House bathroom Tsh10,000) House establishing a trail network and training establishing training and a trail network local guides. Information an is At Zigi, there medicinal the traditional usesand animals, of more. and plants vehicle 0313; adult/child US$30/5, Tanzania-registered/foreign Tsh5000/US$30) high per day (per adult/child entry and guide at Zigi. or can be paid here US$20/10) fees information about the area’s history, plants history, plants the area’s about information good, with hot water for bathing and filtered for bathing and filtered good, with hot water for drinking. The rooms at Zigi have water twin (all with three large bathrooms and are 5pm) Reserve •• Amani Nature MOUNTAINS USAMBARA
In more recent years, the real work at work at the real years, recent In more During the British era, research was shifted was shifted During the British era, research Although the climate is comfortableAlthough year- climate the forests of the eastern Usambaras through through Usambaras eastern the of forests ties, one of the main focuses of the project the project the main focuses of ties, one of has been to facilitatevisitor access to the ments and the EU. In addition to promoting In addition to promoting ments and the EU. use by local communi- sustainable resource Management Programme, with funding with funding Programme, Management govern- and Finnish from the Tanzanian Amani has been done within the framework Amani has been done within the framework Conservation Area the East Usambara of the nearby government-run malaria research malaria research the nearby government-run into neglect. and the gardens fell centre a road linking Amani with Muheza. Many Many a road linking Amani with Muheza. by over taken at Amani were the facilities of to Nairobi, and the railway was replaced by and the railway was replaced to Nairobi, line in order to facilitate the transport of the transport of line in order to facilitate the coast. timber to link was built connecting Zigi, about 12km 12km link was built connecting Zigi, about below Amani, with the main Tanga–Moshi cline. A sawmill was set up and a railway A sawmillcline. was set up and a railway 600 and 1000 different species of plants, plants, species of 600 and 1000 different including numerous unique species. Soon the surrounding exploitation of thereafter, began and the gardens began to de- forest gardens were the largest in Africa, total- the largest gardens were and containing between ling 304 hectares of forest were cleared and numerous new and numerous new cleared were forest of the years species introduced. Within a few Germans established a research station and Germans station established and a research Large areas botanical gardens here. extensive ture reserve in 1997, research in the area reserve in the area in 1997, research ture earlier when the began about a century History History Although as a na- Amani was only gazetted or botanically inclined. For getting around, or botanically For getting inclined. along short, easy walks a network of there’s that can be done with or paths shady forest a guide. without worthwhile detour if you are ornithologically are worthwhile detour if you sounds of rushing water, chirping insects insects chirping water, rushing sounds of is exceptionally rich and singing birds, and species – a highlyin unique plant and bird Mountains. It’s a peaceful, lushly vegetated Mountains. vegetated It’s a peaceful, lushly humming with the montane forest of patch This often overlooked reserve west is located overlooked This often Usambara eastern the of in the heart Tanga of AMANI NATURE RESERVE RESERVE AMANI NATURE ing the rainy season.ing the rainy time to visit is The best the rains and when after October, from July to its clearest. the air is at round, paths get too muddy for trekking dur- for trekking too muddy get paths round, Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book NORTHEASTERN TANZANIA to become the colonial capital. Today,thanks to becomethecolonialcapital. slated Itwaseven atonepoint mission station. local administrative centre andanimportant holiday spotforcolonialadministrators, a wasafavoured(then knownasWilhelmstal) erawhenthetown siders duringtheGerman Lushoto’s charms were first discovered byout- residents. most KiSambaa isthelanguage of choice for almostexclusively,Swahili isused thelocal the Tanga region tothecoast,where closer strong. Unlike inMuhezaandotherparts of meaning ‘scattered’ –andlocalculture is a corruptionof WaSambaaor WaShambala, WaSambaa people–thename‘Usambara’ is hills. surrounding for treks –guidedoronyourownintothe western Usambaras andmakes anidealbase and othertropicalfoliage. It’sthecentre of the pines andeucalyptsmixed withbananaplants fertile valleyatabout 1200m,surroundedby townnestledina Lushoto isaleafyhighland % LUSHOTO left. the Amaniisabout 2kmfurthertoto theright; Bulwasignpostedjunction, where you’llsee andsignpostedstraightforward untilthefinal If you’re drivingfromMuheza,theroute is of thetrails,which takes 2½tothree hours. also walkfromZigiuptoAmanialongone clearance.in agoodcarwithhigh Youcan two hours MuhezaandAmani,less between after which a4WD.Allow1½to you’llneed 2WD asfarZigi(25kmfromMuheza), 6am. about centre office) from near theconservation Amani(stoppingtransport usuallypasses 1pm and2pm.Goingintheotherdirection, Departures fromMuhezaare about between 170 History Lushoto isalsotheheartlandof the youcanmake itinaIn thedryseason, Hongea (sana) mshee Niwedi Onga mshee Onga maundo INKISAMBAAGREETINGS 027 SMAA ONAN • Lsoo USAMBARA MOUNTAINS ••Lushoto I’mfine(in response to Good afternoon Good morning Thank you (very much) Onga maundo ) or Onga Mount UsambaraCommunications Centre. Mon-Sat, 11am-1pmSun)Onthemainroad,justbefore MONEY laDawa Duka Afro-Medics MEDICAL SERVICES Mount UsambaraCommunicationCentre ACCESSINTERNET asyouhikelikely in tosee the area. are variousprojects underway,which you’re initiated duringtheBritish era andtodaythere wereconcern. Erosioncontrolefforts first forestation, aserious erosionhaslongbeen of thesurroundingarea andtheresulting de- sions in the area. mis- and cheeses, nowproducedbyseveral alsoleftalegacyofGermans homemadebread the paved roadleadingupfromMombo,the prison andvariousoldcountryestates –and theGerman-built churches,notably the dition toahandfulof colonial-erabuildings– on Sundays–anditssuperbwalking.Inad- plums andotherproduce,atitsliveliest bustling market –overflowing withpears, to atemperate climate, it’sbestknownforits hike on your own, though you’ll need tomas- hike you’llneed onyour own, though from afew days.It’seasyto hours toseveral andrangecornfields andbanana plantations, worn footpaths thatweave amongvillages, some wonderfulwalking. Routes followwell- The western Usambaras aroundLushoto offer HIKING Tayodea ( Centre Tourism ofLushotoCultural Friends TOURIST INFORMATION Bank National Microfinance ternational credit cards. There’s no ATM inLushoto thatacceptsin- with theInternationalBicycle Fund (www.ibike.org). rentals andcyclingexcursions incollaboration ranges bike Inadditiontoguidesandtreks, italsoar- tothebank. next Tsh2000; opposite the bank. Friends Cornerguesthouse. Arrangesguides Friends and hikes. toNew On thesmallhillbehindbusstand,andnext (minimum US$40commissionfortravellerscheques). On themainroad.Changescashandtravellerscheques Information Activities % Due in part to the high populationdensity Due inparttothehigh 027-264 0132)Justdownthesmallroadrunning h ( % 7.30am-8pm) Onthemainroad,diagonally 0784-861969; [email protected]) 0784-861969; [email protected]) ( h ( h 8am-1pm &2-8pm lonelyplanet.com 8am-3pm Mon-Fri) 8am-3pm Mon-Fri) (perhr NORTHEASTERN TANZANIA 171 Irente , the traditional , the traditional 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am- h (
Kwembago , where you can buy fresh cheese you can buy fresh , where (about 1½ hours return), which be- which return), (about 1½ hours Irente Farm Irente Farm An easy walk to get started is to started An easy walk to get Another easy walk to do on your own: Several of the establishments listed under Several under the establishments listed of churches. After about five minutes, bear bear minutes, about five After churches. sharply left and start climbing, following houses and small the road past scattered further on is 35 minutes farm plots. About of the royal village and notable seat the local Sambaa chief of Viewpoint gins on the road running southwest from the and leads gradually uphill Anglican church to the viewpoint, with wide views on clear to see how abruptly the days. It’s impressive rise plains below. En up from the Usambaras is route 5pm Sat & Sun) competition (it’s in stiffbut good-natured Centre – buy with the nearby Montessori for yourself),some cheese at both and judge and granola, and also homemade rye bread get accommodation. the road Lushoto along head north out of running between the Catholic and Anglican fit and keen on covering some distance, some distance, on covering fit and keen the set hikes for the popular stages most of short and it’s easy to do two or quite are in a day. However, most stages even three you the full guides will then want to charge price for the additional days, so you’ll need solution. A basic an amicable to negotiate and fruits is available vegetables selection of is sold water and bottled along most routes though if villages, the larger in several of hiking on your own, you’ll need to you’re a filter. carry to go via the handful of villages where local where villages of via the handful to go available. are guesthouses recommend ) can p172 Sleeping & Eating ( infor- and the two tourist guides and routes, can also help you organise mation centres Don’t, however, with freelancers go hikes. with an office or relia- associated who aren’t Ratesble hotel. on the hike, vary depending per person Tsh8000 but expect to pay from for a half-day Viewpoint, up to Irente hike per person to Tsh60,000 to a steep Tsh30,000 including camp- per day on multiday hikes, basic guest- in very ing or accommodation houses, and food. For any hikes guide fees reserves includes forest (which that enter need from Lushoto), you’ll also most hikes Tsh5000 to pay an additional reserve of fee per day (sometimes included in per person that if you’re Note daily rates). the quoted St Eugene’s To Karibuni Lodge (1km); Hostel (2km); Soni (15.5km); Mombo (31km) 5 Mtae (65km) Lodge (16km); To Mullers Mountain A3 B4 A2 A3 B3 A3 A3 A2 B2 A2 A2 00 0.1 miles 200 m 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 2 8 10 11 4 Centre...... 11 9 Park •• Lushoto MOUNTAINS USAMBARA 1 3 6 Market 7 10 Church Communication Catholic New Friends Corner...... View Point Guest House...... Lawn's Hotel...... Tumaini Hostel...... National Microfinance Bank..... Tourism Centre...... Lushoto Sun...... White House Annex...... EATING TRANSPORT INFORMATION SLEEPING Tumaini Restaurant...... (see 8) Friends of Lushoto Cultural Mount Usambara Bus Stand...... Tayodea...... (see 7) Afro-Medics Duka la Dawa...... Prison Church Anglican Irente View Cliff Lodge To Irente Farm (4.5km); LUSHOTO Irente Viewpoint (6km); & Camping Ground (6km) also either carry a tent or plan your route plan your route or also either carry a tent information centres ( opposite ). Carrying a opposite ( information centres should You or GPS is a good idea. compass ones posted on the walls of the two tourist on the walls of ones posted try to get a topographical map of the area from the area a topographical map of try to get the Surveys Division sales office & Mapping study the ) or carefully p85 in Dar es Salaam ( ter a few basic Swahili phrases and should also a few ter lonelyplanet.com NORTHEASTERN TANZANIA of year,sobring a waterproof jacket. mission). Lutheran orthenearbyand Mlalo(local guesthouses the localconvent), (local guesthouses) Mtae (basicroomsinalovely atRangwi setting roomsforabout Tsh2000),(local guesthouse for Tsh10,000), guesthouse hospital Lukozi (with roomsattheoldLutheran mission commodation isavailable includeBumbuli in East Africa inLonely Planet’s scribed indetail some of hikes theroutes, andseveral are de- information centres have wallmapsdetailing plus manyotherpossibilities.Thetourist ( day walktoAmaniNature Reserve p169 ), villages andpatches of wildasters, afive- hike thatyoucandofromLushoto to forest. montane tects some beautifulpatches of upper dense Reserve Forest climb upandintothecool,lush Soni. FromBumbuli,it’sascenic,gentle you canfindtransportbacktoLushoto via of station mission hospital follow footpaths steeply downtotheformer at thelarge junctionafter Kwembago,and Migambo. Foralonger variant,headleft roadheadinguptoit joinswiththetarmac the othersideof theLushotovalley, where the patharoundandthendownagainto atthejunction,andfollowuphill, bearright double-storey, Continue balconiedhouses. for itslarge openfieldandhandfulof old 172 through stands of stands pineandpastcornfields,through There’s alsoalovely three- tofour-day Lushoto canget chilly andwet atanytime over whowastosucceedhimcontinueduntiltheGermansarrived intheregion. Society. to buildhisfirstchurchfortheAnglicanChurchMissionary commanders. towhom themissionaryJohannLudwig ItwasKimweri Krapfwenttorequest land ruledbygovernors,chiefdoms ruledbyhissonsanddistricts primeministers andlocalarmy washighlyorganised,to calldownfaminesuponhisenemies. dividedintosub- kingdom His deathin1869,afteruntil Kimweri’s whichthesultanassumedfullauthority. reached anagreement forjointgovernance coast.This arrangementlasted ofthenortheastern Said ofZanzibar,whoalsoclaimedsovereignty over thesameareas. Ultimately, thetwoleaders extent ofhisdominioninthecoastalregions withSultanSeyyid soonbroughthiminto conflict totheIndianOceanineast,levyingtributes ontownsasdistantPangani.the north The main roadbetweenMomboandLushoto), heruledover anarea stretching in fromKilimanjaro tury, isoneoftheUsambararegion’s mostlegendaryfigures. FromhiscapitalatVuga (onthe duringthefirsthalfof19thcen- (Shambaa)kingdom Kilindi chiefofthepowerful Kimweri, KIMWERI CHIEF SMAA ONAN • Lsoo USAMBARA MOUNTAINS ••Lushoto Following the death of Kimweri, interclan rivalries caused the kingdom tobreak interclanFollowing thedeathofKimweri, up,andfighting rivalriescausedthekingdom Tradition holdsthat hadmagicalKimweri powers,includingcontroloftherainandability , which at its higher levels pro- levels , which atitshigher . Nearbyvillages where ac- Bumbuli Mazumbai Mazumbai Trekking , where Mtae
Tsh8000, rTsh15,000-20,000) Tourism Centre ( Tourism Centre p170 tour ). Aseven-day attheFriendsofised LushotoCultural Sleeping &Eating [email protected]. email Lushoto International BicycleFunddirectly orin extra ifasupportvehicle Contact isneeded. including bicycleandhelmetrental, plus US$350 perperson (minimumthree people) from Lushoto toSame viaMkomazicosts Bicycle Fund with Cycling tours inaffiliation CYCLING two-storey compound overlooking smallgar- rooms withnetsand hot-water showers ina unatmospheric but spotlesstwin-bedded .org; s/dUS$10/17,steUS$25) church. Catholic It’s onthemainroad,justsouth of the serving and withhotwater. Outfront isarestaurant Rooms here are abitcramped,butclean you at the hospital. in apatch of trees; askthebus driver todrop backfromthemainroad set district hospital, about 1.5kmsouthof thetowncentre nearthe notice. It’ssignposted able withahalf-day’s cluding somewithbathroom,andmealsavail- hasahandfulofhouse spaciousrooms, in- and withonlyatrickleof custom, thisprivate Lodge Karibuni Budget IN TOWN Tumaini Hostel Lushoto Sun ugali
( andotherinexpensive dishes.
(www.ibike.org) (www.ibike.org) ( % % Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels
( % 027-264 0082;s/dTsh12,000/15,000) 027-264 0104;campingTsh5000, dm 027-264 0094;tumaini@elct-ned Thishostel offers rather Very days faded these can beorgan- International International NORTHEASTERN TANZANIA 173 027-264 0026; www 026-264 0204; mullers Stunning views % % ( (
throughout the day throughout the day This rustic place about This rustic place 027-264 0000, 0784-502935; murless 027-264 0000, % ( dalla-dallas An old family homestead set in set An old family homestead in Mullers Mountain Lodge Daily direct buses travel between Lushoto between Lushoto buses travel Daily direct About 15km outside Lushoto near Migambo 15km outside Lushoto About Irente View Cliff Lodge There are are There main highway. on Sashui four hours) (Tsh4000, and Tanga village are several more places, all well situated places, all well situated several more are village options if you have for walking and reasonable own transport. your s/d/f [email protected]; camping Tsh5000, US$30/4060) sprawling grounds, with rooms in the main privacy, in nearby house or, for a bit more There (from Tsh6000). plus meals cottages, cement huts with less appealing also a few are grassy camping bathroom and a large shared Transport cooking area. with a covered area be arranged. from Lushoto can Getting There & Away bles and a triple room. All are attached and the are bles and a triple room. All Tsh78,000 out for can be rented lodge entire also Farm (sleeps Irente up to nine people). per per- for Tsh3000 picnic lunches prepares in advance). order son (minimum Tsh5000, .irenteview.com; s/d from US$50/65) all the plains below on clear days from over the somewhat over- the rooms compensate for which at this new lodge, furnished interior a cliff of on the choicest is built on the edge and area property in the Lushoto piece of at directly Farm about 1.5km beyond Irente Viewpoint. Just below is a grassy camp- Irente US$5, with ing ground (camping per person showers. US$15) with hot-water rental tent costs US$20 per Transport to/from Lushoto round-trip. people for up to six vehicle about 3km before Lushoto, on the left coming left coming on the Lushoto, 3km before about at to drop you driver the bus Ask from Soni. Centre. Montessori the TOWN OUTSIDE Budget & Midrange Irente Farm r without bathroom @elct.org;per person Tsh3000, camping d Tsh18,000-30,000) Tsh6000, has camping, as well a 4.5km walk from town (cold ablutions sharing tiny rooms as a few converted are Farm only). Also at Irente water as a six-bed/ rented farm buildings that can be two-room self-catering house a kitchen with plus two simple dou- (bring your own food), between Lushoto and Mombo (Tsh2000, between and Mombo (Tsh2000, Lushoto one hour), the junction town on the View This Tumaini Tumaini
(d without
(s without bathroom •• Lushoto MOUNTAINS USAMBARA is cramped and is cramped and , which has great has great , which 027-264 0055, 0784-523710; % White House Annex 027-264 0031; r without bathroom 027-264 0031; r without bathroom (
% ( 027-264 0005, 0784-420252; lawnstony 027-264 0027; Main027-264 0027; Rd; meals from , next to the Tayodea tourist tourist , next to the Tayodea New Friends Corner % % This Lushoto institution is full This Lushoto ( ) (
breakfast, lunch & dinner) breakfast, i h , where you should ask for rooms in the ask for rooms in you should , where
St Eugene’s Hostel St Eugene’s Hostel For camping in town, the best bet is Lawn’s Near the market and bus stand area there there stand and bus area Near the market school on the premises. Meals are available, available, are Meals on the premises. school available and homemade cheese and jam are is along the main road St Eugene’s for sale. an order of sisters and profits go to support and profits sisters an order of including a their work with local children, cious rooms, all with good hot showers and cious rooms, all with good hot showers by the hills. It’s run balconies with views over quiet place has spotless, comfortablequiet place has spotless, and spa- road up and around to the main entrance. road up and around to the main entrance. about Tsh8000. cost at the restaurant Meals choice for a double. It’s at the entrance to entrance to It’s at the for a double. choice – follow the unpaved town and signposted surrounding lawns) and quite a reasonable a reasonable surrounding lawns) and quite floors, a fireplace, a small library and a bar. If a small library and a bar. a fireplace, floors, an airing out and the rooms could be given be it would energy, staff an injection of given it is though, As thoroughly recommendable. bets for camping (on the the better it’s one of rounded by extensive green lawns and gar- green rounded by extensive dens, spacious, musty rooms with dark-wood US$40/45; buildings sur- with vine-covered charm, of Midrange Midrange Lawn’s Hotel Hotel (see following). (seeHotel White White House. ahead. White Houseahead. White is left and up the Annex diagonally opposite hill, and View Point is Tsh4500, d Tsh6000) Tsh4500, OK but quite with noisy information centre, all, head left when coming rooms. To reach the small the bus park and go over out of New Friends Corner is straight footbridge. Tsh5500) and annexe, order. Others – all more basic – include – all more Others order. Point Guest House somewhat noisy, though it’s arguably the best somewhat noisy, though it’s arguably and meals on with hot water the bunch, of buckets on request. on request. buckets s/d Tsh8000/9500) bathroom Tsh7000, are lots of no-frills guesthouses, all with serv- no-frills lots of are rooms and hot-water iceable, undistinguished of standard fare, all well-prepared. standard fare, of Restaurant Tsh1200; assortment usual plus the banana milkshakes, dens. It’s well located in the town centre near centre in the town well located dens. It’s just behind building and the Telecom Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book @yahoo.com; camping per person with hot shower US$6, s/d [email protected]; s/tw/tr US$20/36/42) NORTHEASTERN TANZANIA the Migambo roadandsignposted. Via public junction. Mullers isabout1kmfurtherdown tion andcontinue forabout7kmtoMigambo Magamba, atthesignposted turnright junc- heading uphilland northeastof townto (Mullers Lodge), Mountain take theroad 10am. about arriving attheNewLiverpool Hotel from rest break. fromDar esSalaambegin Buses stop forathe DaresSalaam–Arushabuses 1km westof theMombojunction,where all Liverpool about Hotel, onthemainhighway Dar esSalaam.TheplacetowaitisatNew then get oneof thelarger express to buses dalla often worksoutjustasfasttotake a either DaresSalaam,MoshiorArusha,it passengers. Ifyou’re going fromLushoto to stop forawhileinMombotocollectmore ing at6.30amand7am.Allof buses these hours) onFasaha andChakitolines,depart- and LushotoArusha (Tsh9000, six lines, departingat6am,8am9amandnoon; hours) onMbarukuandShambalaiseven Lushoto andDaresSalaam(Tsh7000, sixto and Tashrif lines,departingat7amand9am; 174 To get tothelodges nearMigambo studying atuniversity level. professionalare training,includingnursingandaccountancy,someare pursuingfurther Several formerstudentsare nowteaching attheschoolandotherschoolsinarea. Others of newbuildings,raiseslivestock andmaintainsfruittrees ascashcrops. of thefoodneedsincompound.The schoolgrowstimber,whichisusedintheconstruction ecologically soundfarmingmethodsandhelpoutontheschoolfarm,whichsuppliesabout80% The principalandalloftheteachers are Tanzanians, andmostare women.Studentsare taught Box 90,Lushoto tohelp),strongemphasisisplacedonachievingsustainability. ifyou’dlike from theLushoto–Mazinde Juuarea. for places,althoughtruetoitsoriginal mission,theschoolreserves 50%ofitsseatsforapplicants Mountains; closeto700girls fromallover Tanzania competed inthemostrecent entranceexam 600 secondaryschoolsinthecountry.Itsreputation hasalsospread wellbeyondtheUsambara nearthetopamongapproximatelyand isranked 60girls’ schoolsand inthetop10ofabout tion, wastraditionallyperceived asanunattainableorunnecessaryluxury. theirlivingfromsmall-scalefarming,andeducationforgirls,make) especiallysecondaryeduca- was anidealplacetoputthisbeliefintopractice. Mostlocalfamiliesmade(andcontinueto Mazinde Juu–longneglected andlagging behindmuchoftherest oftheregion economically– be achieved throughtheeducationandempowermentofcountry’swomen.The area around missionary,basedontheideathatTanzania’sby aBenedictine long-term development canonly Mary’s SecondarySchool,animpressive educationalsuccessstory.The schoolwasfoundedin1989 Tucked awayintheUsambaraMountainsnearLushoto, inthetinyvillageofMazindeJuu,isSt TOURISMSPOTLIGHT:COMMUNITY ST MARY’S MAZINDE JUU SMAA ONAN • Aon uht USAMBARA MOUNTAINS ••AroundLushoto Although StMary’sislessthantwodecadesold,there isalready tangible proofofitssuccess. endsmeet(writeWhile StMary’sisstilldependentonoutsidecontributionstomake toPO Initially, theschoolhadonlybasicresources andjust42girls. Today,ithasaround350students or taxi (Tsh25,000) ortaxi toMombo,and dalla- are available up theroadat Muivano I. of thevillage along the main road. 2km of Mullers, departingTanga atabout towithinaroundand Kwamakamethatgoes transport, there’s Tanga adailybusbetween son Tsh5000) there’s campingat bathroom Tsh2500/3500) the no-frills allow youtocampontheirgrounds, orthere’s also knownforits traditional healers. addition toitsmanyhikingpaths, thearea is peaksintheUsambarahighest In Mountains. of is Mtae village fromLushoto. Justtothesoutheast destination ifyouonlyhave timetovisitone Itmakes agood Mkomazi GameReserve. views over theTsavo Plainsanddownto northwest of 270-degree Lushoto,withfantastic Tiny about55km isperched onacliff Mtae Mtae area at around 2pm. 9am or10amandreaching theMigambo AON LUSHOTO AROUND Near Sungavillage, 7kmsouthwestof Mtae, attheLutheranchurch willusually Staff ingreen grounds about 1kmsouth Shagayu Peak Muivano IIGuestHouse Muivano near the bus stand. Meals nearthebusstand. Limbe Travellers Camp Limbe Travellers (2220m),oneof the lonelyplanet.com
(s/d without (per per-
NORTHEASTERN TANZANIA 175 , but dalla- , where , where Kimalube Kwai
Kwamongo Guest (r Tsh15,000) 0784-384603, 0784-510523; d offers three enormous, three offers , with a few dusty rooms dusty rooms , with a few 027-264 0426, 0784-279371; www % (
% Old Soni Falls Hotel Old Soni Falls (
, with basic, grubby rooms – , with basic, grubby rooms (r Tsh5000) is an atmospheric old farmhouse (r Tsh4000)
from either destination (Tsh750 from from either destination (Tsh750 Soni is about 12km below Lushoto along Maweni Farm Maweni Farm Budget sleeping include options Budget No-frills and somewhat dilapidated rooms dilapidated and somewhat No-frills ResortSoni Falls the Mombo road, and easy to reach via the Mombo road, and easy to reach dalla from Mombo). Maweni Lushoto, Tsh1000 staying pick-ups if you’re free provides Farm in its rooms. .maweni.com/lodge; s/d safari tent with half board €47/64, s/d without bathroom with half board €30/46, ste with half board €64/78) from the main junction, against a backdrop of birds, flowering gardens and a pond twittering lilies, with Kwa Mungu with water covered mountain The recently rising up behind. rooms – some in the main house renovated spacious and some in a separate block – are also four en are comfortable. There and quite plus meals prepared safari-style tents, suite garden and with produce from the organic is 2.9km walks. Maweni guides for organising from the main Soni junction along a rough and signposted. road most with two large beds – in a central lo- beds – in a central most with two large walk from the main minutes’ cation five junction (signposted). at available are the valley and the setting is good, overlooking no food, though this may hills beyond. There’s It’s just uphill from the main junction change. and signposted. along the Mombo road f Tsh48,000) & tr Tsh28,000, rooms – all with hard-wood floor- good-value windows – in an old restored ing and lots of colonial-era house a hill overlook- on perched ing the valley. Apart from continental breakfast, is found, no meals, but once a chef are there 100m uphill It’s about food will be available. and signposted. from the main junction interesting to see the contrast with some of see to some of contrast with the interesting surround- areas eroded more the treeless, to as a detour en route and Gare, ing. After of at the village Lushoto, stop Kwai was project. pottery a women’s there’s for soil science and post research also an early efforts.erosion control for all routes Guides Farm at Maweni arranged be from Soni can in Lushoto. or Guest House downhill from Soni and no food about 1.5km and along the road to Mombo, House is set about 3km rambling grounds in lush,
on , about , about , home of one one , home of dalla-dallas sometimes also sometimes also between Lushoto Kitala Hill (r without bathroom Tsh3000) , a Benedictine mission
(r Tsh4000) Kwa Mungu mountain
•• Around Lushoto MOUNTAINS USAMBARA dalla-dallas Sakharani , which you can see , which to the left along
Buses run daily between Dar es Salaam Afilfx Guest House Lutheran Mission The road betweenThe road and Mtae Lushoto is full as part of erosion control efforts, and it’s erosion control efforts,as part of and it’s first missions in the area – was reforested – was reforested missions in the area first a lovely, longer walk from Maweni Farm Farm walk from Maweni longer a lovely, then on to Mission and ) up to Gare right ( the – one of around Gare The area Lushoto. pine-clad also that sells There’s locally produced wine. town (per person per day Tsh50,000), and and per day Tsh50,000), town (per person to return) hours to five a short stroll (three also the starting point for several wonderful to hike walks, including a two- to three-day Reserve Forest and Bumbuli the Mazumbai the road coming up from Mombo. Soni is is Soni the road coming up from Mombo. known for nearby and for the small away on foot, 30 minutes Soni Falls but makes a good change of pace if you’ll pace if you’ll of a good change but makes It’s be staying for a while in the Usambaras. Soni Soni infrastructure, Soni lacks Lushoto’s Tiny and Mlalo. about 1pm, and Mlalo by about 5am (Tsh3000 about 1pm, and Mlalo by about 5am (Tsh3000 are between There Mlalo and Lushoto). also sporadic and Mlalo via Lushoto, departing Lushoto by Lushoto departing and Mlalo via Lushoto, cross the bridge from the bus stand and head the bridge cross you go. as right, asking directions takes travellers. It’s away from the town centre – It’s away from the town centre travellers. takes in the town centre has no-frills rooms with has no-frills in the town centre and meals. showers bucket shared esque villages and patches of forest. of patches and esque villages the Mtae– Lushoto route. Lushoto the Mtae– The walk between subchiefs. the Usambara of is 21km) to six hours, Mlalo and Mtae (five hillsides, pictur- beautiful, passing by terraced West feel, a modest selection of basics and a selection a modest West feel, of Nearby is guesthouse. Set in a valley cut through by the Umba River, place with a Wild Mlalo is an incongruous Mlalo Mlalo 1pm. The return buses from Mtae1pm. The return to Lushoto to depart between en route 4am and 5.30am no are Dar es Salaam. There Lushoto (Tsh2500, four hours) travel only in travel hours) four Lushoto (Tsh2500, by about departing Lushoto the afternoons, If travelling by public transport you’ll need by public transport to If travelling one nightspend at least in Mtae as buses from of turns and hills, and particularly beautiful beautiful and particularly and hills, turns of to Mtae. way up the final 7km as it winds its lonelyplanet.com NORTHEASTERN TANZANIA then up to Usangi (forthenorth Pares) or begin exploration istoheadMwangaand of hikes canbeundertaken. Thebestwayto infrastructuredeveloped fromwhere aseries the Usambaras, there isnomajor with base remained largely untouched. Also,unlike the traditionsandfolklore of thePare have your own.Thankstotherelative isolation, and foranyexploringyou’llbelargely on fortourismastheUsambaras,or developed considered tobeasingle ethnic entity. among variousPare groups,sociallytheyare are somehistorical andlinguisticdifferences the Pare (alsocalledtheAsu). Whilethere and tracks.Themainethnicgrouphere is small villages linked byanetworkof paths the Pares are populated, withmany densely birds andplants.Alsolike theUsambaras, slopes hostanimpressive numberof unique andforestedchain, cliffs andtheirsteep they formpartof Arc theancient Eastern of theUsambara range. Like theUsambaras, lie southeastof Kilimanjaroandnorthwest vided intonorthernandsouthernranges – The seldom-visited Pare –di- Mountains PARE MOUNTAINS road and signposted. with hot-water showers. It’sjustoff themain person withshowerUS$5) Mombo, is off themainhighway and signposted. numerous hikes inthearea. It’sabout1km lect youforfree inMombo. There are also will cometocol- swimming pool,andstaff to camping,ithasrooms,food,abarand about15kmwestoftains town.Inaddition US$4, s/dUS$14/18; 0784-663205; [email protected]; camping persite out to Soni orLushoto to sleep. have notroublegetting a or Darpassatareasonable hour,youshould fromeitherArusha asmostbuses though ommendable accommodationinMombo, There’ses Salaam–Arushahighway. norec- road toLushoto branches the mainDar off foot of theUsambara where Mountains the junctiontownatthe Mombo isthescruffy Mombo toSame 176 The Pare are Mountains notasaccessible Further up,about 45kmnorthwestof Better than staying inMomboistohead thanstaying Better AEMUTIS • ae PARE MOUNTAINS ••Same Tembo Lodge&Campsite Pangani River Campsite Pangani River s , atthefootof themoun- ) onthePangani River, dalla-dalla ( %
027-264 1530/9,
(camping per upto Fees forguidesarranged inSameare abit fees andabout Tsh3000 perperson permeal. about Tsh4000 perperson perdayforvillage Tsh8000 pergroupdayforguidefees, plus For organised hikes, expecttopayfromabout in Samecanalsoputyoutouch withguides. inUsangi.local guesthouses ElephantMotel are Hill-TopTonaLodge inMbagaorat gramme. Thebestplacestoarrange guides a previously existingculturaltourismpro- with routes andhikes from modelledonthose few enterprising localsare fillinginthegap, one isplannedforSameandmeanwhilea programme ineitherSameorMwanga,but bring a stove.portable except MbagaandUsangi, it’sagoodideato per person Foralldestinations, pernight. Prices forbothaverage Tsh4000 toTsh7000 (for whichyourownequipment). you’llneed commodation iswithvillagers orcamping Hill-Top TonaLodge inMbaga,mostac- most part,very basic.Withtheexceptionof Lodging andfoodinthePares are, forthe Information guides can be arranged. to three daysormore, andEnglish-speaking are varioushikes, rangingfromhalfaday Pares). FrombothUsangi andMbaga,there Same andthenuptoMbaga(forthesouth town ismore point for asastarting suitable notourist infrastructureessentially andthe Unlike LushotointheUsambaras, Same has get toMbaga,the centre forhikes inthisarea. Pares. here topassthrough You’llneed to and thelargest inthesouthern settlement ( Same long rains,whenpaths become too muddy. time of year,exceptduringtheMarch toMay number of days. guide willstillexpectyoutopayforthesame anyone who’sreasonably your fit–although or three canusuallybeeasilycombinedfor the stages are generally quite short–two your guide. Foranyhikes donewithguides, office inSameorthrough at theCatchment walks toShengena Peak. Thefees are payable including walks thatgointoforest reserves, There isaTsh5000 pervisitforest fee forany including aguide,campingfees andmeals. –aboutTsh20,000higher perperson perday SAME SAME There’s currently noorganised tourism The Pares atany canbevisited comfortably sah -may) isalively market town lonelyplanet.com NORTHEASTERN TANZANIA 177 (2462m), the high- by Steven Feierman Feierman by Steven Lute: The Curse and the and the Curse The Lute: Shengena Peak travel daily between Same, Dar es travel The Shambaa Kingdom The Most buses on the Dar es Salaam–Arusha est peak in the Pares. Mbaga, an old Lutheran est peak in the Pares. mission station, been has long an influential its location near the centre town because of Mountains, and even today, it is in the Pare of important local centre a more many respects than Same. dalla-dallas Same in the morn- Salaam and Moshi, leaving bus between Arusha is a direct ing. There at around 8am and Same, departing Arusha one are To Mbaga, there 2½ hours). (Tsh4000, daily, departing Same between or two vehicles and 2pm. 11am MBAGA Mbaga (also known as Mbaga-Manka), Same at about of in the hills southeast perched deeper1350m, is a good base into the for hikes mountains. You surrounding southern Pare days in two or three can also walk from here to the top of taurant serving up decent meals, and a TV. It’s taurant serving up decent meals, and a TV. on the main highway 1km southeast about of town. Otherwise, highway stop at Same on request. has 027-275 8107; s/d 027-275 8107; s/d % (
027-275 8193; www.elephantmotel •• Mbaga MOUNTAINS PARE % (
offers simple, clean rooms simple, clean rooms offers by Jakob Janssen Dannholz (revised translated edition 1989), who established the first the first edition 1989), who established translated by Jakob Janssen Dannholz (revised Traditional Pare society is patrilineal. Fathers are considered to have great authority during their authority during their great to have considered are society is patrilineal. Fathers Traditional Pare elabo- developed have powers, and thus possess great that deceased persons believe Pare The look for copies of culture, about Pare To learn more lifetime as well as after death, and all those descended from a single man through male links man through male links death, and all those descended from a single well as after as lifetime his ghost influences all male descendants for Once a man dies, common fate. a sense of share this, the dead man’s spirit joins a collectively After is remembered. as long as the ghost’s name Yet, also dependent on the goodwill of their father. are Daughters influential body of ancestors. ghost only has influ- through the male line, a father’s since property transmitted and status are descendants until her death. his daughter’s ence over the skulls of tribal where areas sacred on the dead. Near most villages are rituals centred rate unlikely period in see these unless you spend an extended to kept, although you’re are chiefs inhabit a nether world between the land to believed people die, they are When the mountains. will befall ill fate in this state, allowed to remain world. If they are of the living and the spirit of the allowing the deceased to pass into the world rituals prescribed The their descendants. importance. great of ancestors are PARE CULTURE CULTURE PARE herd- were they of southern Kenya, where Hills area the Taita hail from WaPare) (locally, Pare The who pursued them oral traditions, to Pare It was the Maasai, according and farmers. ers, hunters farmers, cultivating are Today, many Pare their cattle. capturing and stealing into the mountains, missionary to significant and cardamom. Thanks bananas, cassava maize, plots of vegetables, groups. most educated as being among Tanzania’s distinguish themselves also activity, Pare the which played an important Union, Wapare formed the role in leading Pares During the 1940s, for independence. the drive (1974), on which some of this sectionintriguing was based, and the Blessing mission station at Mbaga. Same’s most ‘upmarket’ accommodation, accommodation, Same’s most ‘upmarket’ There’s currently no reliable internet con- internet no reliable currently There’s Amani Lutheran Centre The Catchment office (for paying forest The Catchment office (for paying forest faded but reasonable rooms, a cavernous res- rooms, a cavernous faded but reasonable available on order. It’s along the main road, It’s along the main on order. available min- and about five the market, just south of bus stand. walk from the utes’ Elephant Motel (go left out of the bus stand, up one block, (go left out of cash. changes then left again) nection in town. National Microfinance Bank nection in town. National Microfinance reserve town, on the main is at the end of fees) the market. road past way. Sunday is the main market day, when day, when way. Sunday is the main market come the Pares from towns all over traders their wares. to trade for most of the better destinations you will destinations you will the better for most of the need local transport at least part of to take base. If you do want to stay a few days before days before base. If you do want to stay a few several are there heading into the villages, although town, walks into the hills behind excursions into the Pares rather than as a a rather than as into the Pares excursions lonelyplanet.com around a quiet compound, and has meals around a quiet compound, and has meals Tsh7000/10,000) .com; camping per person US$5, s/tw/tr US$20/25/30) NORTHEASTERN TANZANIA to come here istochange vehicles to get to of green of andstands palm.Themainreason town withwide,unpaved roads,large swathes and oldmarket area, it’sashady, pleasant centraljunction Once awayfromthe scruffy Same ontheDaresSalaam–Arusha highway. at thefootof thePares about50kmnorth of sprawlsacross theplains This districtcapital AROUND & MWANGA leading off to the left. 5kmsouth tothedirtroad Arusha highway reached byfollowingtheDaresSalaam– ternative route viaMwembe,which canbe village, departingSame about 2pm. SameandChome also adailybusbetween then walkabout5kmuphilltoMbaga. There’s dallas possible tocatch oneof daily theseveral transport departsby6amorearlier. It’salso you arrange this.FromMbagabacktoSame, or oneof tohelp theotherSameguesthouses about Tsh40,000 oneway;askElephantMotel in Same. Hiringavehicle uptoMbagacosts overnight tostay Salaam, you’llprobably need day.ComingfromDares Mbaga thesame togetneed abusby8aminordertoget to coming fromMoshi,thismeansthatyou’ll (Tsh3000, twotothree hours, 40km).Ifyou’re the lastonedepartingSamebyabout2pm SameandMbaga,withmidday between village. Chome lodge in priced mountain inagoodsetting US$50) .co.uk; campingperpersonUS$10,rwithhalfboard (Tsh3000). available activities canalsobearranged. Meals are (about Tsh10,000 persmallgroup)andother per day).Traditionaldancingperformances lage fee development Tsh3000 perperson Tsh8000 pergroupof uptothree people;vil- cottages andreasonable hikingprices(guides Pares, simple withgoodviews,helpfulstaff, text, p177 ) andoneof inthe thebestbases ofsion house Jakob theboxed Dannholz(see person withoutbathroomUS$10) [email protected]; campingperpersonTsh7000, rper dayandthenreturningsecond to Mbaga. beforenight ascendingShengena Peak onthe Mbaga to 178 There are oneortwovehicles dailyaround Inn Villa Kisaka The rustic A popularthree-day circularroute isfrom If you’re drivingtoMbaga,there isanal- AEMUTIS • wna&Aon PARE MOUNTAINS ••Mwanga&Around is an amenable although ratherover-is anamenable although runningfromSametoKisiwani,and Chome Hill-Top TonaLodge Hill-Top village, where youcanspenda
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% 0754-852010; dalla- are Luofishing communitiesthatoriginally Pretty Usangi, lyinginavalleyringed by USANGI vehicle tovisit the reservoir. more forovernight andmeals,ortohire a fees aboutTsh22,000 andlunch, total perday, site andsimple rooms.Costs,includingguide for theHasha Project, which alsohasacamp is abouta30-minute walkeastwards;ask base Chini, fromwhere thetourismprogramme and askthedriver todropyouatKisangara Take anybusheading south fromMwanga migrated here Victoriaarea. fromtheLake (HouseofGod) Nyumba yaMungu Atthenearby ing andtovisitaherbalhospital. of sortsthatoffers thechance todosomewalk- Chini signboards, andthenkeep on. straight down awide,tree-lined laneattheclutch of road intowardsthe‘new’market, turnleft –followthemain andbusstand the highway plus meals.It’sabout 10minutes onfootfrom nextdoor,what quieter roomsinahouse building andsimilarbutlarger andsome- albeit noisydoubleswithnetsinthemain 8381; dTsh10,000, innewerannexe Tsh15,000) Kenya to the northeast. Steppe Jipeandinto tothewestandLake overKindoroko, it’spossible tosee theMaasai northern Pares. Fromtheupper slopes of Mt peakinthe Kindoroko (2113m), thehighest south of Usangi village) tothetopof Mt (which beginsabout7km Forest Reserve to hike Kindoroko inalongdaythrough with basicrooms and food. (r withoutbathroomTsh4000) neartheschool) orin houses inthevillageinclude homestays (generally in Other thanLomwe,accommodationoptions anyone attheschool, askforMrKangero. are Ifyoucan’tfind classes notinsession. as a site here withwater, andtheschool serves where you canarrange guides.There’s acamp hiking isconcerned forexploring base the region. the centre of thenorthernPares andapossible about25kmeastofmountains Mwanga,is the northern Pares. Usangi, pointforexcursions thestarting in For overnight try stays, In additiontoshort jaunts,it’spossible The mainpointof interest intownasfar About 10kmsouthof Mwangais hostel , thesite of aculturaltourismprogramme
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reserve headquarters and the place to arrange an armed and the place to arrange 9am-4pm) Babu’s Camp from where you can arrange guides and begin you can arrange from where a walking safari. trans- Babu’s Camp provides its guests. for fers where camping is permitted. camping where enough safari-style to visit is reason camp all well spaced tents, Mkomazi. It has just five and set acacias in the and thorn amid baobabs the reservenorthern part of looking towards the Gulela Hills. The cuisine is wonderful, staff together ambience, and the entire attentive with the evocative surrounding landscapes, quintessential East Wildlife Africa. recalls and walks – including to a nearby drives further afield – or rock pool and stream, night drives. as can can be arranged, Getting There & Away Via public transport, Same and Mbaga can drop you at Zange Gate, The main entrance to the reserveThe main entrance to the is at Zange the is also Same, which 5km east of about Gate, location of h sections for bush walks. Significant ranger of long impass- were Mkomazi’s road network able during the rainy season, although main from Zange (including the road to routes Gate being made the process of in Babu’s Camp) are this, 4WD is necessary Despite all-weather. cost US$20. walks for a visit. Guides for bush Sleeping & Eating (bring everything is a basic camp site There from Zange 15km with you) at Ibaya, about else- areas and severalGate, other cleared in the reserve where without any facilities evocative nyika bush landscapes studded with studded landscapes evocative nyika bush by low, and broken thorn acacia and baobab access, ease of its relative rocky hills. Despite beaten still well away from the Mkomazi is a true wilderness experience. track and offers including evening walks, walks, Guided bush another attraction. are Information Reserve US$20 per costs currently admission US$20/5 per adult day and camping costs though /child, these will almost certainly fees this book, once of within the lifetime increase statusMkomazi’s national park is formalised. [email protected]; s/d full board US$248/440) s/d full [email protected];
dalla-dallas •• Mkomazi Game Reserve MOUNTAINS PARE In addition to the rhinos, there are wild are In addition to the rhinos, there Severaland pick-ups small enjoying the wonderful Babu’s Camp – are to enjoying the wonderful Babu’s Camp – are and area the alluring wilderness appreciate commonly spotted in Mkomazi. The main commonly spotted for coming to Mkomazi – apart from reasons also beginning to come back, after reaching reaching also beginning to come back, after elephants in the just a dozen a low point of not in 1989, althoughelephants still are area huge seasonalhuge elephant herds that once crossed and Mkomazi are between Tsavo regularly eland, dik-dik, the rarely seen gerenuk, kudu, gerenuk, seen dik-dik, the rarely eland, birds. The and an array of hartebeest Coke’s viewable as part of general tourism). Animals general viewable as part of oryx, to spot include likely more that you’re dogs (also reintroduced and, as part of a spe- and, as part of dogs (also reintroduced species programme, also not cial endangered general tourism. general around Hafino Mountain in the north-central around Hafino the reserve part of and not viewable as part of tion work in Mkomazi – started his work his work tion work in Mkomazi – started within All are babies. including three there), built 45-sq-km enclosure protected a heavily nine rhinos (up from zero since 1989, when nine rhinos (up from zero since 1989, when – the force behind conserva-Tony Fitzjohn lifenow.com and www.ifaw.org/ifaw/general and lifenow.com currently are /default.aspx?oid=82095). There publicised conservation success story (for see www.wild more, the highly informative introduced into the area from South Africa for from introduced into the area a pioneering and little- part of and are breeding contiguous with Kenya’s Tsavo West National West National Tsavo contiguous with Kenya’s were black rhinos, which is known for its Park, shadow of the Pare Mountains, its dry savan- Pare the shadow of with the moist nah lands contrasting sharply The reserve, is which the Pares. of forests soon to be gazetted as Mkomazi National National as Mkomazi soon to be gazetted border in the Kenya along the – spreads Park The wild and undeveloped Mkomazi Game Mkomazi Game The wild and undeveloped Reserve (Mkomazi-Umba Game Reserve) – organise things, allow at least two days for an things, allow organise to Usangi. excursion MKOMAZI GAME RESERVE is also a direct bus to Usangi, departing in departing bus to Usangi, is also a direct Ask from Arusha). (four hours the morning Secondary to drop you at Lomwe the driver and here yourself time to get To give School. hours), from around 10am. Hiring a taxi around 10am. Hiring a from costs hours), there and Moshi From Arusha Tsh30,000. run daily along the unpaved but decent road but decent unpaved along the run daily 1½ (Tsh2000, betweenMwanga and Usangi Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book NORTHEASTERN TANZANIA the above - ‘Do the right thingwithourcontent.’ the above-‘Doright thetermsandconditionsonoursiteforalongerwayofsaying youknow,orresell it.See everyone site,massemailitto only. Inotherwords,pleasedon’tuploadthischaptertoapeer-to-peer Inreturn, wethinkit’sfairtoaskyouuseitforpersonal,non-commercialpurposes restricted. © LonelyPlanetPublications. iteasierforyoutouse,accessthischapterisnotdigitally Tomake 180 © LonelyPlanetPublications
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