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DAR ES SALAAM Plane Rideaway © Lonely Planet Publications 84 Dar es Salaam DAR ES SALAAM DAR ES SALAAM With a population of almost three million and East Africa’s second-largest port, Dar es Salaam is Tanzania’s major centre and capital in everything but name (Dodoma is the parliamentary capital). Yet under its veneer of urban bustle, the city remains a down-to-earth, manageable place, with a picturesque seaport, a fascinating mixture of African, Arabic and Indian influ- ences and close ties to its Swahili roots. While there aren’t many ‘sights’ as such, there are craft markets, shops and restaurants enough to keep most visitors busy. The streets, too, are full of colour and activity, as men weave through traffic on large Chinese-made single-speed bicycles, while women clad in brightly hued kangas (printed cotton wraparounds worn by many Tanzanian women) stand in the shade of government office blocks balancing trays of bananas and mangoes on their heads. Along the waterfront, colonial-era buildings with their red-tiled roofs jostle for space with sleek, modern high-rises, massive ocean liners chug into the harbour and peacocks stroll across the leafy, manicured State House grounds. An increasing number of travellers bypass ‘Dar’ completely, by taking advantage of one of the many international flights into Kilimanjaro International Airport (between Arusha and Moshi). Yet the city merits a visit in its own right as Tanzania’s political and economic hub. It’s also an agreeable place to break your travels elsewhere in the country, with an array of services and well-stocked shops. For a break from the bustle, there are easily accessed beaches and islands just north and south of town, and Zanzibar is only a short ferry or plane ride away. HIGHLIGHTS Beaches Strolling through the city centre ( p89 ), Offshore Islands Msasani Slipway taking in the beat on the street Mwenge Carvers' Market Coco Beach Shopping for crafts at Msasani Slipway or City Centre Mwenge Carvers’ Market ( p97 ) St Joseph's Cathedral Beaches Relaxing at the beaches ( p102 and p104 ) north or south of the city Snorkelling around the offshore islands ( p101 ) Immersing yourself in life local style – everything from enjoying the weekend scene at Coco Beach ( p97 ) to attending a church service at St Joseph’s Cathedral ( p92 ) TELEPHONE CODE: % 022 POPULATION: APPROX 3 MILLION lonelyplanet.com DAR ES SALAAM •• History 85 DAR ES SALAAM DAR ES SALAAM HISTORY Otherwise, there’s a good selection of smaller Until the mid-19th century, what is now Dar city maps for sale at hotel bookshops. es Salaam was just one of many small fish- ing villages along the East African coast. In INFORMATION the 1860s Sultan Seyyid Majid of Zanzibar Bookshops decided to develop the area’s inland harbour A Novel Idea Msasani Slipway (Map p86 ;%022-260 into a port and trading centre, and named 1088; Msasani Slipway, Msasani Peninsula); Sea Cliff Village the site Dar es Salaam (‘Haven of Peace’). (Map p86 ; Sea Cliff Village, Toure Dr); Steers (Map p90 ; No sooner had development of the harbour cnr Ohio St & Samora Ave) Dar es Salaam’s best bookshop, begun, however, than the sultan died and the with classics, modern fiction, travel guides, Africa titles, town again sank into anonymity, overshad- maps and more. owed by Bagamoyo, an important dhow port Second-hand Bookstalls (Map p90 ; Sokoine Dr) Be- to the north. It wasn’t until the 1880s that Dar tween Pamba Rd and Ohio St. A good bet for older books, es Salaam assumed new significance, first as a especially on colonial-era history; bargaining is required. way-station for Christian missionaries making their way from Zanzibar to the interior, and Cultural Centres then as a seat for the German colonial govern- Alliance Française (Map p86 ; %022-213 1406/2; ment, which viewed Dar es Salaam’s protected [email protected]; Ali Hassan Mwinyi Rd) harbour as a better alternative for steamships British Council (Map p90 ; %022-211 6574/5/6; info than the dhow port in Bagamoyo. In 1891 @britishcouncil.or.tz; cnr Ohio St & Samora Ave) the colonial administration was moved from Nyumba ya Sanaa (Map p90 ; Mwalimu Julius K Nyerere Bagamoyo to Dar es Salaam. Since then the Cultural Centre, Ohio St) city has remained Tanzania’s undisputed po- Russian Cultural Centre (Map p86 ; %022-213 6578; litical and economic capital, even though the cnr Ufukoni & Ocean Rds) legislature and official seat of government were transferred to Dodoma in 1973. Emergency Central police station (Map p90 ; %022-211 5507; ORIENTATION Sokoine Dr) Near the Central Line Train Station. The city centre runs along Samora Ave from First Air Responder (%022-276 0087, 0754-777100, the clock tower to the Askari monument, with 0754-777073; www.knightsupport.com) For emergency banks, foreign-exchange bureaus, vendors and evacuations; see p339 for membership details. shops. Northwest of Samora Ave, around Flying Doctors & Amref (Map p90 ; %in Nairobi India and Jamhuri Sts, is the Asian quarter, emergency 254-20-315454/5, 254-20-600090; www with its warren of narrow streets lined with .amref.org; Ali Hassan Mwinyi Rd) For emergency evacua- Indian merchants and traders. tions; see p339 for membership details. On the other side of town, northeast of IST Clinic (Map p86 ; %022-260 1307/8, 0784-783393, Askari monument, is a quiet area of tree-lined 24hr emergency 0754-783393; www.istclinic.com; Ruvu streets with the National Museum, Botanical Rd; h8am-6pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat) A Western-run Gardens and State House. Proceeding north fully equipped clinic. It’s the best bet for travellers, with a from here along the coast are, first, the upper- doctor on call 24 hours. From Chole Rd, look for the small middle class area of Upanga and then, after Ruvu Rd signpost just south of and diagonally opposite the crossing Selander Bridge, the fast-developing Slipway turn-off. diplomatic and upmarket residential areas of Oyster Bay police station (Map p86 ; %022-266 Oyster Bay and Msasani. The city’s only real 7332; Toure Dr) North of Coco Beach. stretch of sand is at Coco Beach, near Oyster Premier Care Clinic (Map p86 ; %022-266 8385, Bay, but better beaches to the north ( p102 ) 022-266 8320; [email protected]; New Bagamoyo Rd) Western and south ( p104 ) are only a short ride away. standards and facilities; next to Big Bite restaurant. Traffic police headquarters (Map p90 ; %022-211 Maps 1747; Sokoine Dr) Near the Central Line Train Station. The tourist information centre has free photocopied city maps. The unwieldy Dar Immigration Office es Salaam City Map & Guide (1:20,000; Wizara ya mambo ya ndani (Map p90 ; %022-211 Tsh5000) is available from the Surveys & 8640/3; www.tanzania.go.tz/immigrationf.html; cnr Ghana Mapping Division Map Sales Office (Map p90 ; cnr Ave & Ohio St; hvisa applications 8am-noon Mon-Fri, Kivukoni Front & Luthuli St; h8am-2pm Mon-Fri). visa collections until 2pm) 86 DAR ES SALAAM •• Greater Dar es Salaam lonelyplanet.com 0 2 km GREATER DAR ES SALAAM 0 1 mile Msasani Peninsula DAR ES SALAAM DAR ES SALAAM 39 30 21 35 Dar es Salaam Yacht Club Masaki 7 22 38 C h To CEFA o l (3km) e R d r D Msasani re O Bay u l o d Ruv T B 25 u Rd ag 8 a m 16 o e y v d o A R R i 3 r sie d e s 28 la 12 w e S im K e il Msasani a 42 41 H 20 19 d Mikocheni Ghuba R d Oyster R 34 i Bay 40 n Oyster a s Bay a To Village Museum (1km); s 17 Mwenge Carvers’ Market (3.5km); 32 33 M University of Dar Es Salaam (7km); 18 t Retreat Hotel (8km); S Northern Beaches (25km) o n i N s e r w B Namanga ag U amo yo Rd 13 St Peter’s Church 27 Kinondoni A li H a Dr nd a au ss K an Mwinyi Rd r D t a Dar es at eny 6 5 1 K Salaam Bay Kinondoni Rd 10 d R Selander a w Bridge a w a 24 K t To Ubungo Bus Station (6km); i S d 9 15 Chalinze (110km);Morogoro i u d 26 h d R s n (195km);Mikumi National a i s R n Park (245km); Arusha (635km) M o i 2 t Upanga 14 k a e i e 11 N n r o C d k d e u f R t M i 4 U o ro n gor r o e U Rd d n 31 la Se See Central Dar es Salaam Map (p90) O c e Kisutu a n Mohamed Rd Kivukoni R Titi d t S Bibi Mchafukoge To Zanzibar; i L i z v Pemba Ka Kariakoo a i b n w g m a i s s t wa o M n 37 L R To TEC Kurasini Training & e u m Central d S Ilala Conference Centre (3km); t u Line Railway m Temeke (3.5km); b Station To Tazara Train 29 a Selous GR (250km); S Station (4km); Kilwa Masoko (320km) t Wildlife Division (4km); Kleist SykesSt St Airport (10km); 23 uru 43 45 Pugu Hills (15km); Uh 44 d e R Kisarawe (25km) rer Kigamboni 36 ye 46 N lonelyplanet.com DAR ES SALAAM •• Information 87 DAR ES SALAAM DAR ES SALAAM INFORMATION SLEEPING Terrace Restaurant.............................(see 38) A Novel Idea......................................(see 38) Akana Lodge........................................20 A3 Village Supermarket...........................(see 39) A Novel Idea......................................(see 39) Coral Beach..........................................21 C1 Alliance Française...................................1 C4 Golden Tulip........................................22 C2 DRINKING Barclay's Bank....................................(see 38) Msasani Slipway Apartments..............(see 38) Coco Beach........................................(see 19) Belgian Embassy.....................................2 C5 Msimbazi Centre Hostel.......................23 B6 Garden Bistro........................................35 C1 Burundian Embassy..............................(see 9) Palm Beach Hotel.................................24 C5 Msumbi Coffee House.......................(see 39) CCBRT Disability Hospital.......................3 B2 Peninsula
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