DAR ES SALAAM Plane Rideaway

DAR ES SALAAM plane rideaway. ferry or andsouthoftown,Zanzibarisonlyashort beaches andislandsjustnorth shops. andwell-stocked Forabreakof services fromthebustle,there are easilyaccessed It’s alsoanagreeable placetobreak yourtravels elsewhere inthecountry,withanarray Moshi). Yet thecitymeritsavisitinitsownrightasTanzania’s politicalandeconomichub. (betweenArushaand of themanyinternational International flightsintoKilimanjaro Airport the harbourandpeacocksstrollacrossleafy,manicured State Housegrounds. red-tiled roofs jostleforspacewithsleek,modernhigh-rises,massive oceanlinerschuginto buildingswiththeir bananas andmangoesontheirheads. colonial-era Alongthewaterfront, many Tanzanian women)standintheshadeofgovernment officeblocksbalancingtraysof bicycles, whilewomencladinbrightlyhued asmenweave single-speed full ofcolourandactivity, throughtrafficonlarge Chinese-made shopsandrestaurantscraft markets, mostvisitorsbusy.The enoughtokeep streets, too,are roots. Whilethereences andclosetiestoitsSwahili aren’t many‘sights’assuch,there are afascinatingmixture ofAfrican,place, withapicturesque ArabicandIndianinflu- seaport, capital). Yet manageable underitsveneer ofurbanbustle,thecityremains adown-to-earth, is Tanzania’s major centre andcapitalineverything butname(Dodomaistheparliamentary With apopulationofalmostthree millionandEastAfrica’s second-largest port, Dar esSalaam Salaam es Dar 84 © LonelyPlanetPublications An increasing numberoftravellers advantageofone bypass‘Dar’completely, bytaking

HIGHLIGHTS TELEPHONE CODE: Immersing yourselfinlife localstyle– aroundthe Snorkelling Relaxingatthe Shoppingforcraftsat Strollingthroughthe north orsouthofthecity north service at service at everything scene fromenjoyingtheweekend ( p101) Mwenge Carvers’ Market inthebeatonstreet taking Coco Beach St Joseph’sCathedral ( p97 ) toattending a church beaches % 022 city centre Msasani Slipway offshore islands 12 ad p104) and (p102 ( p97) (p92) ( p89), or

kangas POPULATION: APPROX 3 MILLION Mwenge Carvers' (printed cottonwraparoundswornby Market City Centre Beaches St Joseph's Cathedral Offshore Islands Coco Beach Msasani Slipway

Beaches DAR ES SALAAM 85 022-211 022-211 022-260 022-266 Sea Cliff Village % (Map p90 ; % 022-213 6578; in Nairobi % 022-211 5507; % % % 022-266 8385, Steers 022-213 1406/2; % % (Map p90 ; 022-211 6574/5/6; info %

(Map p90 ; p90 (Map (Map p86 ; (Map p86 ; % 022-276 0087, 0754-777100, (Map p90 ; Sokoine Dr) Be- p90 (Map (Map p90 ; (Map p86 ; p86 (Map 022-260 1307/8, 0784-783393, (Map p90 ; p90 (Map % ( (Map p86 ; % (Map p90 ; Mwalimu Julius K Nyerere ; Mwalimu Julius K Nyerere p90 (Map (Map p86 ; p86 (Map visa applications 8am-noon Mon-Fri, (Map p90 ; Msasani Slipway h (Map p86 ; p86 (Map 8am-6pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat) A Western-run h Bookshops Bookshops cnr Ohio St & Samora Ave) Dar es Salaam’s best bookshop, Dar es Ave) cnr Ohio St & Samora with classics, modern fiction, travel guides, Africa titles, and more. maps (Map p86 ; Sea Dr); Toure Cliff Village, p86 (Map 1088; Msasani Slipway, Msasani Peninsula); Msasani Peninsula); 1088; Msasani Slipway, 0754-777073; www.knightsupport.com) For emergency for membership details. p339 evacuations; see 022-266 8320; [email protected]; New Bagamoyo Rd) Western restaurant. standards and facilities; next to Big Bite Cultural Centre, Ohio St) Cultural Centre, 1747; Sokoine Dr) Near the Central Line Train Station. 1747; Sokoine Dr) Near the Central Line Train Immigration Office Immigration Office Wizara ya mambo ya ndani tween Pamba Rd and Ohio St. A good bet for older books, tween Pamba required. is especially on colonial-era history; bargaining Station. Sokoine Dr) Near the Central Line Train Flying Doctors & Amref IST Clinic Ruvu 24hr emergency 0754-783393; www.istclinic.com; Rd; It’s the best bet for travellers, with a fully equipped clinic. doctor look for the small From Chole Rd, on call 24 hours. Ruvu Rd signpost just south of and diagonally opposite the Slipway turn-off. Oyster Bay police station Premier Care Clinic Traffic police headquarters cnr Ghana 8640/3; www.tanzania.go.tz/immigrationf.html; & Ohio St; Ave Cultural Centres Alliance Française British Council Ave) cnr Ohio St & Samora @britishcouncil.or.tz; Nyumba ya Sanaa Russian Cultural Centre Emergency Central police station Air ResponderFirst Otherwise, there’s a good selection of smaller smaller selection a good Otherwise, of there’s bookshops. hotel for salecity maps at INFORMATION Novel Idea A Second-hand Bookstalls 7332; Toure Dr) North of Coco Beach. Dr) North7332; Toure of Coco [email protected]; Ali Hassan Mwinyi Rd) Ali Hassan [email protected]; Rds) Ocean cnr Ufukoni & emergency 254-20-315454/5, 254-20-600090; www Ali Hassan Mwinyi Rd) For emergency evacua- .amref.org; membership details. for p339 tions; see visa collections until 2pm) visa collections . Dar Dar Surveys & (Map p90 ; cnr (1:20,000; (1:20,000;

8am-2pm Mon-Fri) h

DAR ES SALAAM •• History

On the other side of town, northeast of town, northeast of On the other side of HISTORY HISTORY

ORIENTATION ORIENTATION Maps Maps Until the mid-19th century, what is now Dar what is century, the mid-19th Until The tourist information centre has free has free The tourist information centre photocopied city maps. The unwieldy & Guide Map Salaam City es Tsh5000) is available from the is available Tsh5000) Mapping Division Map Sales Office crossing Selander fast-developing the Bridge, of areas residential diplomatic and upmarket BayOyster and Msasani. The city’s only real sand is at Coco Beach, of near Oyster stretch ) p102 to the north ( Bay, beaches but better ride away. only a short ) are p104 and south ( from here along the coast are, first, the upper- first, along the coast are, from here after Upanga and then, of middle class area streets with the National Museum, Botanicalstreets House.Gardens and State Proceeding north Askari monument, is a quiet area of tree-lined tree-lined of monument, is a quiet area Askari India and Jamhuri Sts, is the Asian quarter, quarter, Sts, is the Asian India and Jamhuri lined with narrow streets of with its warren and traders. Indian merchants banks, foreign-exchange bureaus, vendors and vendors bureaus, banks, foreign-exchange around Samora Ave, shops. Northwest of The city centre runs along Samora Ave from Samora Ave runs along The city centre monument, with the clock tower to the Askari legislature and official seat of government seat and official government of legislature in 1973. to Dodoma transferred were than the dhow port in Bagamoyo. In 1891 In Bagamoyo. than the dhow port in from was moved the colonial administration Bagamoyo to Dar es Salaam. Since then the po- undisputed Tanzania’s city has remained litical and economic capital, even though the ment, which viewed Dar es Salaam’s protected viewed Dar es Salaam’s protected ment, which for steamships alternative harbour as a better their way from Zanzibar and to the interior, then as a seat German for the colonial govern- es Salaam assumed new significance, first as a significance, first es Salaam assumed new way-station missionaries making for Christian owed by Bagamoyo, important an dhow port the 1880s that Dar to the north. It wasn’t until into a port and trading centre, and named and named and trading centre, into a port Peace’). of Salaam (‘Haven Dar es the site the harbour developmentNo sooner had of begun, however, than the sultan died and the town again sank into anonymity, overshad- the 1860s Sultan Seyyid Majid of Zanzibar of the 1860s Sultan Seyyid Majid inland harbour decided to develop the area’s lonelyplanet.com es Salaam was just one of many small fish- just one of es Salaam was along the East coast. In African ing villages Kivukoni St; Front & Luthuli DAR ES SALAAM 86

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R d Kigamboni To Zanzibar; Pemba DAR ES SALAAM 87 C1 B6 B6 B2 C1 B3 B3 C3 B6 C6 C6 B6 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 022-215 (Map p90 ; % 022-211 0960, 022- 8am-8pm Mon-Sat, 6am-11pm) Cash and % h (Map p86 ; h for all flights) Straight ahead (International Arrivals Julius Area, h (Map p90 ; DRINKING ENTERTAINMENT SHOPPING TRANSPORT Tingatinga Centre...... 38) Wasanii Art Gallery...... (see Dalla-Dalla Junction & Taxi Stands...... Dalla-Dallas to Kisarawe...... Green Car Rentals...... Hertz...... Scandinavian Express Bus Terminal...... 16) Travel Mate...... (see Terrace Restaurant...... (see 38) Terrace Restaurant...... (see 39) Village Supermarket...... (see 19) Coco Beach...... (see Garden Bistro...... 39) Msumbi Coffee House...... (see Tavern...... (see 25) O'Willie's Irish Whiskey 28) Q-Bar...... (see 38) Slipway Pub...... (see 38) Msasani Slipway...... (see 12) Arts and Crafts Fair...... (see Ilala Market...... Kariakoo Market...... Msasani Slipway...... Msasani Slipway Weekend Craft 38) Market...... (see Sea Cliff Village...... Shopper's Plaza...... (International Arrivals Area, Julius Nyerere (International Arrivals Julius Nyerere Area, A3 C1 C2 B6 C5 B2 C5 B4 C2 C6 C1 C5 B3 B3 C3 31 32 33 34 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 8am-6pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat) See listing under (Map p90 ; cnr Azikiwe St & Sokoine Dr) Changes cash p90 (Map h 10am-1pm Sun & public holidays) Cash and travellers required). (receipts cheques Mövenpick Royal Palm, Ohio St; Mövenpick Royal Palm, International Airport; cash only. when exiting customs; 24hr emergency 0754-783393; [email protected]; Ruvu [email protected]; 24hr emergency 0754-783393; Rd; Emergency ( p85 ). Mövenpick Forex Bureau Royal Palm NBC Money Money service faster give bureaus and margin- Forex many are There rates. exchange ally better on or near around the city centre scattered (all open standard business Samora Ave the following: or try hours), American Express Forex Bureau Galaxy Forex Bureau Muhimbili Medical Centre main teaching hospi- 1351; United Nations Rd) Tanzania’s tal, with well-qualified staff, but often lacking medicines and supplies. travellers cheques; to the right as you exit customs. travellers cheques; to the right as you cheques. and travellers Nyerere International Airport;Nyerere 211 4094; www.rickshawtz.com; Upanga Rd) At Rickshaw Travels, next to Citibank; no cash advances, but sometimes Also stolen cheques. (slow) help with replacing offers issues US-dollar travellers cheques up to US$1500 against Amex card. an 022-260 7am-8pm SLEEPING EATING Fairy Delights Ice Cream Shop...... (see 38) Fairy Delights Ice Cream Shop...... (see 35) Garden Bistro...... (see 30) Karambezi Café...... (see La Trattoria Jan...... 38) Masani Slipway...... (see 38) Mashua Waterfront Bar & Grill...... (see 38) Melela Bustani...... (see 39) Sea Cliff Village ...... (see 38) Shoprite...... (see Sweet Eazy Restaurant & Lounge...... Akana Lodge...... Coral Beach...... Golden Tulip...... 38) Msasani Slipway Apartments...... (see Msimbazi Centre Hostel...... Palm Beach Hotel...... Hotel...... Peninsula Seaview Portea Courtyard...... Apartments...... Protea Dar es Salaam Q Bar & Guest House...... Riki Hill Hotel...... Sea Cliff Hotel...... 39) Sea Cliff Village ...... (see 38) Souk...... (see Swiss Garden Hotel...... 25) 81 Steps...... (see Addis in Dar...... 38) Azuma...... (see 22) Chongqing Chinese Restaurant...... (see Similar to Dar % h C4 C5 B2 C5 C4 C4 C2 C2 C5 C4 B5 C2 A3 C5 C5 C2 C3 B3 C3 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 8am-7pm Mon-Fri, (Map p90 ; Mövenpick p90 (Map 8am-8pm Mon-Sat, (Map p86 ; (Map p90 ; Main Post Office, p90 (Map h h 022-260 1307/8, 0784-783393, Free monthly with restaurant with restaurant monthly Free (Map p90 ; cnr Pamba Rd & ; cnr Pamba p90 (Map (Map p90 ; Garden Ave; per hr ; Garden Ave; p90 (Map % (Map p86 ; 1st fl, Sea Cliff Village; p86 (Map DAR ES SALAAM •• Information 7am-9pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat, (www.advertisingdar.com) Free weekly Free (www.advertisingdar.com) h 8.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat) 8.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, to (Map p90 ; Jamhuri St; per hr Tsh1000; ; Jamhuri St; per hr Tsh1000; p90 (Map (Map p86 ; h

9am-10pm Mon-Sat, 10am-9pm Sun)

INFORMATION SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Coco Beach...... Golden Tulip Swimming 22) Pool ...... (see Ugandan High Commission...... US Embassy...... Sea Cliff Forex Bureau...... (see 39) Sea Cliff Forex Bureau...... (see 40) Standard Chartered ATM...... (see Travel Mate...... Premier Care Clinic...... Russian Cultural Centre...... Rwandan Embassy...... Kenyan High Commission ...... Muhimbili Medical Centre...... Oyster Bay Police Station...... Irish Embassy ...... IST Clinic...... Italian Embassy...... 39) Kearsley Travel...... (see Embassy...... French Embassy...... Indian High Commission...... CCBRT Disability Hospital...... 39) CSS Internet Café...... (see Congo (Zaïre) Alliance Française...... 38) Barclay's Bank...... (see Belgian Embassy...... 9) Burundian Embassy...... (see A Novel Idea...... (see 38) A Novel Idea...... (see 39) A Novel Idea...... (see 10am-2pm Sun) 9am-3pm Sat) Royal Palm, Ohio St; per 10min Tsh1000; Ohio St; per 10min Tsh1000; Royal Palm, Mon-Fri, 8.30am-4pm Sat, 9am-1pm Sun) Mon-Fri, 8.30am-4pm Sat, Sokoine Dr; per hr Tsh1000; Sokoine Dr; per hr Tsh1000; Maktaba St; per hr Tsh1200; Maktaba St; per hr Tsh1200; Tsh1000; Tsh1000; and club listings, embassy listings, airline schedules etc; available from hotels, travel agencies and the tourist information centre. per hr Tsh5000; per hr Tsh5000; 2-6pm Sun) IST Clinic es Salaam Guide. es Salaam CCBRT Disability Hospital What’s Happening in Dar es Salaam Medical Services Dar es Salaam Guide Advertising Dar Media Media listings. club and eventwith restaurant, Royal Palm Business CentreRoyal Palm h Post Office Internet Café Mealz Internet Café Cyberspot CSS Internet Café Alpha Internet Café Internet Access lonelyplanet.com 1543, 022-260 2192; www.ccbrt.or.tz; off Haile Selassie1543, 022-260 2192; www.ccbrt.or.tz; Rd) DAR ES SALAAM h all branches;accepts Visa only. & SokoineDr)HasanATM aswellat atitsheadquarters, acceptsMasterCard. across theintersection; Monument,withanotherATMwest ofAskari diagonally Sokoine Dr) Accepts Visa, MasterCard, CirrusandMaestro. Sokoine Dr)AcceptsVisa,MasterCard, Tanzania BoardInformationCentre Tourist Information Tourist House. Extelecoms try the ternational calls(fromUS$1.50perminute), the mainpostoffice. Foroperator-placed including infrontof and House Extelecoms phonesareCard scattered aroundtown,in- Telephone postoffice Main Post Standard Chartered Stanbic Bank National BankofCommerce Kempinski Kilimanjaro FBME TanPay/SpeedCash Barclays Bank ATMs are available atthefollowing locations: Toure Dr; Bureau CliffForex Sea 88 Accepts Visa only. p90 ; cnrOhioSt&SokoineDr); Ave); Maestro. Cirrus Front)AcceptsVisa,MasterCard, Kivukoni and touristboard.com; SamoraAve;touristboard.com; p90; 4.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon 4.30pm Mon-Fri, Sat) AcceptsVisa Msasani SlipwayApartments) and MasterCard. Mövenpick RoyalPalm, OhioSt); scarlet flowers… thereand adomedmosque andalongthewaterfront wasalineofacaciatrees splashed with houses white andyellowpink,among the housesIcouldseeanarrowchurch steeple lions andallmannerofviciousbeasts. OvertoonesidelaythetinytownofDaresSalaam, dous dark-green trees teeming…with thatwere rhinosand fullofshadowsandalmostcertainly ajungle,greatAnd thenbehindthecasuarinaswaswhat seemedtomelike tangleoftremen- on thebeaches,andthere were casuarinatrees, beautiful… immenselytallandbreathtakingly running upontothesand,andcoconut palmswiththeirlittlegreen leafyhatswere growing the rimoflagoonthere sandybeaches,almostwhite, were andbreakers pale-yellow were lagoonandallaroundThis wasmyfirstglimpseofDaresSalaam…avastripplingblue-black DAR ESSALAAM INTHELATE 1930S 7.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pmSat) 7.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, % JM Mall A SSLA • Dnes&Anyne DAR ESSALAAM••Dangers&Annoyances 022-212 0373,022-2131555;www.tanzania h Telecom Office (Map (Map p90 ; SamoraAve); 11am-7pm) Cash only. (Map (Map p90 House,cnrOhioSt& ; Sukari

Mövenpick RoyalPalm (Map (Map p90 St; ; Maktaba

Holiday Inn (Map (Map p86 CliffVillage, ; Sea (Kilimanjaro Kempinski hotel, Kempinski (Kilimanjaro (cnr Bridge St&SamoraAve;(cnr Bridge (Map (Map p90 ; SamoraAve) Just h Shopper’s Plaza Msasani Slipway (Map (Map p90 St ; cnrAzikiwe (Map (Map p90 ; Garden 8am-4pm Mon-Fri, 8am-4pm Mon-Fri, (Map (Map p90 ; opposite NIC LifeHouse h behind the (Map (Map p86 )) (Map (Map p86 ; 8am- (Map (Map (Map (Map Mp p86; (Map excursions. toZanzibarandMikumi citytours,daytrips priced park circuitdestinations. Alsoofferssouthern safari reasonably and northern travel toZanzibar,andforflightslinking flights tomanyareas ofthecountry;especiallygoodfor recommended agencywith itsownairline.Itoffers and www.coastal.cc; UpangaRd)Along-established p90; mate.co.tz; CholeRd) NeartheSlipway turn-off. US$25 perperson.Next to Citibank. 212 8161;www.lions.co.tz; UpangaRd)Citytoursfrom 4094; www.rickshawtz.com; UpagnaRd) 4094; www.rickshawtz.com; Amex agent. St); Travel Mate Travel Skylink Travels Rickshaw Travel Kearsley Lions ofTanzania Tours&Safari Coastal Travels following: the and p54 andhotel. Forflight bookings,try andtrekFor safari operators, alsosee p44 Agencies Travel alsothelistingsunderMediaSee ( p87 ). train stations, andforbagsnatchingtrain stations, through ticularly atcrowdedmarkets andbus be taken. Watch outforpickpocketing, par- the usualurban-area precautions to need it hasitsshare of andthefts muggings cities intheregion, Nairobi,though notably Dar esSalaamissafer thanmanyother big DANGERS &ANNOYANCES tourist mapsandbrochures and tourist city information. St,withfree 8.30am-12.30pm Sat)JustwestofZanaki Mövenpick RoyalPalm, OhioSt); tanzania.com) p90 hotel, Kempinski ; Kilimanjaro Front) Kivukoni Upanga Rd % ( 022-213 1652/3; Garden Ave);022-213 1652/3;Garden % % (Map (Map p90 ; (Map (Map p86 ; 022-211 5381,2786;www.skylink Next to 022-260 0467; Toure Dr) (www.kearsleys.com) (www.kearsleys.com) Mp p90; (Map

Mövenpick RoyalPalm

Barclay’s Bank % % Roald Dahl, GoingSolo 022-211 0960, 022-260 0573;info@travel % Kilimanjaro Kempinski 022-211 7959/60; (Map (Map p90 ; opposite (Map (Map p90 ; lonelyplanet.com Sea CliffVillage Holiday Inn (Map (Map p90 ; Ohio % (Map (Map (Map (Map 022-

DAR ES SALAAM

water water dukas runs there runs there and Village Museum is a collec- at the large, at the large, swim beaches hotel just south of just south of hotel dalla-dalla 9.30am-6pm) (Map p86 ; Tour Dr; adult/child ; Tour Dr; adult/child p86 (Map h

022-211 2518; www.wcstonline.org; 022-211 2518; www.wcstonline.org; 7am-6pm) % h 022-270 0437; www.museum.or.tz; cnr New 022-270 0437; www.museum.or.tz; % has twice-monthly bird walks (ad- at Sea Cliff Village ( p95 ), next to ), next to p95 at Sea Cliff ( Village north of the city ( p102 ); the supervised p102 city ( the north of Wildlife Conservation Society of Tanzania Golden Tulip The museum is 10km north of the city the city The museum north of is 10km DAR ES SALAAM FOR CHILDREN DAR ES SALAAM FOR CHILDREN Diversions include the Diversions parks play area your Sea you can leave Cliff where Hotel, with a nanny while you go shopping; child 30 minutes). Msasani Peninsula At Tsh10,000/5000; Sea Cliff you can Village pools in hotel the few beautiful pool – one of to nonguests. the city open Bird Walks The ; p90 (WCST; Map Garden Ave) Village Museum Village Museum the open-air of The centrepiece (Map p102 ; Bagamoyo Rd & Makaburi St; adult/child/student US$3/1/2, camera/video US$3/20; dwellings authentically constructed tion of in various parts illustrating traditional life sometimes tradi- are There Tanzania. of tional music and dance performances held on afternoons. – the Mwenge centre from New Posta transport stand (Tsh200, mission free, two to three hours), departing departing hours), two to three mission free, and last from its office on the first at 7.15am month. See each Saturday of also the boxed text, p43 .

dalla-dalla 022-211 7508; (nutcracker (nutcracker % (Map p90 ;

houses the famous fos- zinjanthropus •• Sights & Activities DAR ES SALAAM 9.30am-6pm) h Stretching west and southwest of the city is a jumble of vibrant, earthy of the city is a jumble west and southwest Stretching in- neighbourhoods,

National Museum cluding Kariakoo, Temeke and Ilala. In these areas – seldom reached by travellers – sandy streets – sandy streets by travellers – seldom reached areas In these and Ilala. cluding Kariakoo, Temeke bustling night markets and roofs, densely packed houses with corrugated square, wind past small, placid, head For something more small kerosene of lanterns. dozens do business to the light of coast, past the clipped Dr along the Toure following Ocean Rd and out to Msasani Peninsula, – especially to the peninsula’s tip. Here dignitaries of various foreign residences lawns and stately and air sea breezes – you can enjoy fresh nearby Sea Cliff Village at Msasani Slipway and the Southeast of town is yourself in things Western. blossoms, and immerse with frangipani scented villages and a string across the bay to laid-back minutes which takes you five Kigamboni Ferry, beaches. of relaxing (shops) sell everything from lighting fixtures to textiles, and Indian-style tea rooms serve up spicy serve rooms tea and Indian-style up spicy to textiles, from lighting fixtures (shops) sell everything other snacks for a pittance. samosas and THE MANY FACES OF DAR OF DAR FACES THE MANY vendors Here, busy central area. Mosque St in the is at its most exotic around Dar es Salaam lined with colonial-era small buildings, streets narrow, congested along hawk their wares

Ave and Sokoine Dr. and Ave which useswhich no metal at all. The museum is near the Botanical Gardens, between Samora Rolls Royce used by the British colo- first by Julius Nyerere, and later nial government and the original East African Community Benz. In the back building are Mercedes – one of old wooden bicycles a couple of there’s a small special collection in the plaza there’s between the main buildings, including the trade, and the German colonial and British autos, vintage periods. For aficionados of numerous other topics, including the Shirazi numerous other topics, including the Shirazi Kilwa, the Zanzibarcivilisation of slave man) from Olduvai Gorge (see p223 ), plus p223 (see man) from Olduvai Gorge but intriguing displays on some scattered US$5/2; of sil discoveries The Shaaban Robert St; adult/student www.houseofculture.or.tz; ing. For more options, see Shopping ( p97 ). p97 ( options, see Shopping ing. For more National Museum Sampling the city’s vibrant markets and its Sampling the city’s vibrant markets craft shops is a fine way to while away a morn- SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES alone along the path paralleling Ocean Rd, alone along the path paralleling Ocean Rd, and on Coco Beach on is only safe (which with when it’s packed afternoons, weekend people). take a taxitake rather than taking a walking and avoid (minibus) or walking, valuables in a reliable hotel safe. At night At night safe. hotel valuables in a reliable vehicle windows. Stay aware of your sur- your of windows. Stay aware vehicle roundings, minimise carrying conspicuous your possible, leave bags or cameras and, if lonelyplanet.com DAR ES SALAAM and south of town. at PuguHills( p100 ), andatthebeaches north Dar of (p104) placesforcamping arees Salaam.Theclosest south or (p102) north beaches scene. Toavoid thecityentirely, headforthe Peninsula canbeabreak fromtheurban airport (about 20km),thehotels onMsasani ortravellingfor taxis, fromthe thedistance lodging islocated. Ifyoudon’tmindpaying city centre, which isalsowhere mostbudget cheaper andmore convenient inthe tostay If you’re relying onpublictransport,it’s SLEEPING Peninsula Cliff andSea Village.w Idea bookshopbranches ( p85 ) atMsasani there are frequent culturalactivitiesforchildren, and ( The RussianCulturalCentre p85 ) sponsors Tsh29,000; p94 ), withachildren’s corner. Kilimanjaro Kempinski hotel (per person On Sundaythere’s afamilybrunch at swimming pool movies andasmallplayground;the Msasani Slipway 90 Mnanzi Mmoja CENTRAL DARESSALAAM

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R ) d Pemba DAR ES SALAAM 91 B3 B3 D3 A2 B1 B2 B2 C2 B1 B3 B1 C2 B2 B3 C2 D3 A3 B1 B1 C2 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 Around the 022-211-6048/9; econo 022-211 4293; jamboinn % % Ferries to Zanzibar Archipelago.. KLM...... Linhas Aéreas de Moçambique...... (see 41) New Posta Transport Stand...... Old Posta Transport Stand...... Precision Air...... Royal Coach...... (see 70) South African Airways...... Stesheni Transport Stand...... Swiss International Airlines...... (see 47) Taxi Stand...... Taxi Stand...... Yemenia Yemen Airways...... (see 2) Zambian Airways...... Mawazo Art Gallery...... (see 51) Mawazo Art Gallery...... (see Vendors & Shops...... Nyumba ya Sanaa...... Air India...... Air Tanzania...... 2) Avis...... (see 46) Avis...... (see 48) British Airways...... (see 29) Coastal Aviation...... (see Dalla-dallas to Temeke...... Dar Express...... (see 70) Emirates Airlines...... (see 79) Ethiopian Airlines...... (see 2) Ferry to Kigamboni & Southern Beaches...... Jet Airways...... (see 46) Kenya Airways...... (see 71) Kisutu Bus Stand...... Rendezvous Restaurant...... Rendezvous Steers...... 49) Tausi...... (see 58) Épi d'Or...... (see 48) Kibo Bar...... (see 46) Level 8...... (see 51) Mawazo Art Gallery...... (see 3) British Council...... (see Mwalimu Julius K Nyerere 64) Cultural Centre...... (see Fish Market...... 41) JM Mall...... (see Mnazi Mmoja Textile SHOPPING TRANSPORT DRINKING ENTERTAINMENT Clean, good, no-frills rooms Clean, good, no-frills (Map p90 ; ) (Map p90 ;

a B1 B2 A2 B2 B2 A2 C2 B2 C2 B3 B2 C1 A2 A3 C2 C2 B1 A2 A2 C2 C1 C2 B3 B1 B3 D2 C2 B3 C2 A2 B3 B1 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 50 67 Jambo Inn Econolodge offices and around the corner from Safari offices and around the corner from Safari Inn. Continental break- Inn and Jambo no food included; otherwise there’s fast is available. [email protected]; Libya St; s/d US$20/25) US$30/35/40; hidden away in an aesthetically unappealing high-rise near the Kisutu bus stand booking [email protected]; s/d/tr US$18/24/30, with air-con [email protected]; s/d/tr US$18/24/30, with air-con Lions of Tanzania Tours & Lions of Tanzania New Africa Hotel's Bandari Wildlife Conservation Society SLEEPING EATING City Garden...... City Supermarket...... (see 41) Debonairs Pizza...... (see 61) Épi d'Or...... Heritage Motel...... (see 42) Holiday Inn...... (see 43) Kibo Bar...... (see 48) Kilimanjaro Kempinski...... (see 46) L'Oliveto...... (see 48) Mövenpick Palm Hotel...... (see 48) Grill...... Nyumba ya Sanaa...... (see 64) Oriental...... (see 46) Econolodge...... Harbour View Suites...... Heritage Motel...... Holiday Inn...... Jambo Inn...... Kibodya Hotel...... Kilimanjaro Kempinski...... Luther House Centre Hostel...... Mövenpick Royal Palm...... Peacock Hotel...... Safari Inn...... YMCA...... YWCA...... Al Basha...... Al-Qayam...... Alcove...... Baraza...... (see 43) Chef's Pride...... City Hall...... Travels...... Coastal Training Institute Forodhani Hotel Court)...... Building (Appeals 64) Hippotours & Safaris...... (see Karimjee Hall...... 34) Safari...... (see National Museum...... Old Boma...... 48) Rickshaw Travels...... (see Rickshaw Travels...... St Joseph's Cathedral...... State House...... Sukari House...... White Fathers' Mission House... of Tanzania...... •• Sleeping DAR ES SALAAM B1 C2 C1 C2 B3 B2 B2 B2 C2 B3 A3 C2 B2 C2 C1 C2 C2 A1 C2 C1 B2 D1 B2 B2 B1 B1 B2 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 21 22 23 24 19 20 25 26 27 18 Just up from the post Just up from the post 0713-622707; ywca.tanzania@ % (Map p90 ;

YWCA Tanzania Tourist Board Surveys & Mapping Division Mozambique High SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Azania Front Lutheran Church.. Botanical Gardens...... Askari Monument...... Traffic Police Headquarters...... Zambian High Commission...... Information Centre...... Telecom Office...... (see 8) Standard Chartered Bank...... (see 41) Standard Chartered Bank...... (see 43) Standard Chartered Bank...... (see 37) Map Sales Office...... Stanbic Bank...... Second-Hand Bookstalls...... Skylink...... (see 2) Skylink...... (see 46) Rickshaw Travels...... (see 48) Rickshaw Travels...... (see 34) Royal Palm Business Centre....(see 48) Ocean Road Hospital...... Post Office Internet Café...... (see 13) Commission...... NBC Bank...... 64) Nyumba ya Sanaa...... (see Mövenpick Royal Palm Forex 48) Bureau...... (see Marine Parks & Reserves Unit... Mealz Internet Café...... Kilimanjaro Kempinski...... (see 46) Kilimanjaro Kempinski...... (see Main Post Office...... 24) Malawian High Commission...(see Imagination Computer Centre..(see 37) Imagination Computer Centre..(see Immigration Office...... 43) Kearsley Travel...... (see German Embassy...... (see 4) German Embassy...... (see Extelecoms House...... FBME TanPay/Speed Cash...... FBME TanPay/Speed Cash...... Flying Doctors & AMREF...... Central Police Station...... Cyberspot...... 4) Dutch Embassy...... (see British Council...... British High Commission...... Commission...... Canadian High Alpha Internet Café...... 34) American Express...... (see Barclays Bank...... A Novel Idea...... (see 61) Idea...... (see A Novel local-style meals. quieter. Men and women are accepted, and and accepted, and women are Men quieter. serves the attached restaurant inexpensive convenient location makes up for the street up for the street makes location convenient noise. courtyard are Rooms around the inner office, this is a good budget deal. Rooms have deal. Rooms have this is a good budget office, mosquito net, fan and sink, the clean shared and the disinfectant, bathrooms smell of Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book africaonline.co.tz; Maktaba St; d Tsh20,000, s/d without without s/d Maktabaafricaonline.co.tz; d Tsh20,000, St; bathroom Tsh10,000/15,000) DAR ES SALAAM 212 6247,022-2120734;[email protected];Sokoine Uhuru and Livingstone Sts. ambience andabar. It’snear thejunctionof as wellasarestaurant, local rooms withTV, midrange place offers decent value,withclean air-con US$48/54/66; St;swithfan US$36,s/d/twwith KleistSykes .rikihotel.com; downstairs. restaurant fast isavailable (atextracharge) atthe fan, mosquitonetsandair-con, andbreak- just backfromthewaterfront. Roomshave two blockssoutheastof thepostofficeand Dr; s/twUS$25/30; standards. other withIndiandishes, plusburgerstaurant and hot-water supplies,andagood,cheap res- with fan,flyscreens inthewindows,erratic with amixof twinanddouble-bedded rooms corner fromSafariInn,andalsopopular, 92 Riki Hill Hotel Hill Riki Hostel Luther HouseCentre O’Willie’s ( p97 ) forsundownersoverlooking MsasaniBay. to ataxiridealongthecoastalToure Dr,andthenheadwestover toMsasaniSlipway( p96 ) or hotel ( outside terrace Kempinski oftherooftopbaratKilimanjaro p94 ). Alternatively, treat yourself cal background. the City inacarcrash1984. successoruntilhewaskilled likely primeministerDr isnamedafter andJuliusNyerere’s EdwardMoringeSokoine,one-time most SthonoursoneofTanzania’s president.(ANC) ShaabanRobert mostfamouswriters, whileSokoine Luthuli,example, isnamedafter Albert theformerSouthAfrican-born African NationalCongress and cameraatyourhotel, clothingthatletsyoublendinandsetoff. wearlow-key architecture andatmosphere, andiseasilymanageableonfoot.Leave yourdaypack,valuables in‘sights’,butit’sfullofhistoricalbuildings,interestingCentral DaresSalaammaybelacking DISCOVERING DARESSALAAM’S HIDDEN SIGHTS

A SSLA • Sepn DAR ESSALAAM••Sleeping was originally builtbytheGermansandrebuilt after WWIbytheBritish. Some highlightsare describedfollowing. For viewsover theharbourandcitycentre, ortocooloffwithacolddrink,headthe As youwalk,watchthestreet ofTanzanian namesforamini-overview history.Luthuli St,for parliamentary committee meetingsandpoliticalfunctions. cated toDodoma,andiswhere JuliusNyerere wassworninaspresident. Todayitisusedfor stately white buildingwastheformerhouseofparliamentbefore thelegislature wasrelo- around theturnof20thcentury. Kochcarriedouthispioneeringresearchhospital iswhere onmalariaandtuberculosis Robert architecturally, withitsMoorishinfluences. The small,white, domed buildingjustbefore the State House Ocean RdHospital Botanical gardens Hall Karimjee original size. botanical gardensdate fromtheGermancolonialera. They are oftheir nowjustafraction by Laura Sykes and Uma Waide includes walking toursofthecitywithextensive histori- andUmaWaideincludeswalking byLauraSykes a

Mp p86; (Map (Map (Map p90 ; Luthuli St) ) Centrally located, about Centrally (Map (Map p90 St) ; SamoraAve, ofShaabanRobert north Thisupper-budget/lower- )

(Map (Map p90 ; SamoraAve) Mp p0; ca Rd) Ocean p90; (Map % 022-218 1820;www Mp p90; (Map Animposingcomplexsetamidlarge grounds,theState House % Builtin1897andnolongeroperational,butappealing 022- Opposite Karimjee Hall,DaresSalaam’slanguishingOpposite Karimjee [email protected]; Old Bagamoyo Rd, Mikocheni B;s/d/tr OldBagamoyo Rd,Mikocheni [email protected]; the citycentre costs from Tsh3000. ride from nets, andacanteen formeals.Ataxi Simple, quietrooms withfanandmosquito s/d/tr Tsh12,000/24,000/36,000, sinnewwingTsh15,000) p86; be dropped here.off (Tsh4000transport stand andaskto bytaxi) Buguruni isreasonable value.but otherwise Take the It’snoisy,especiallyonweekends,canteen. ing bathroomfacilities,andaninexpensive net, breezier twinswithtworoomsshar- Tiny, roomswithfanandmosquito stuffy Rd;s/d/tw Tsh10,000/20,000/50,000)022-286 3204;Kawawa priced. reasonably looking forsomethingclean,quietand affiliated places–mostdecentvalueifyou’reaffiliated CEFA Centre TEC KurasiniTraining&Conference Hostel Msimbazi Centre % Out of thecitycentre are church- several

022-285 1077; [email protected]; Nelson Mandela Rd; 022-285 1077;[email protected];NelsonMandela (off Map (off Map p86 ; Dar esSalaam:ADozen Drives Around Now closedtothepublic,this dalla-dalla Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels % 022-278 0425, 022-2780685; fromtheOldPosta Mp p86; (Map % 022-286 3508, (off Map (off Map

DAR ES SALAAM 93 ) This ai 022-212 4040; www % 022-213 7575; www.holiday-inn

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(Map p90 ; ai Just down the road from the AzaniaJust down the road from the This bronze statue, dedicated to Afri- statue, dedicated bronze This Holiday Inn Harbour View Suites Just northeast of St Joseph’s Cathedral, Just northeast of St Joseph’s Cathedral, TV, a good restaurant and a bar. Caters pri- Caters TV, and a bar. a good restaurant TOP END TOP END access. wi-fi All top-end listings have r from US$210; Garden.com/daressalaam; Ave; place, with is a pleasant, popular and solid-value modern rooms and the standard amenities, marily to a local business clientele, and is and is marily to a local business clientele, often full. s US$110-200, d US$120-210,.harbourview-ste.com; Samora Ave; US$7; breakfast studio apartments business travellers’ located Some city or the harbour. the with views over modern mosquito nets, and all have rooms have A pool and a kitchenette. and furnishings, wi-fi a busi- planned, and there’s are centre fitness the best value and most Definitely centre. ness Underneath in this category. choice upmarket su- with an ATM, centre, shopping is JM Mall bureau. forex and permarket (Map p90 ; Kivukoni Front)

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a (Map p90 ; cnr Sokoine Dr & Azikiwe St) p90 (Map

(Map p90 ; Sokoine Dr) ; Sokoine p90 (Map Dating to the era of Sultan Majid, and later expanded by the by the expanded Dating to the era of Sultan Majid, and later Opposite the Old Boma is the German-built City Hall. Opposite •• Sleeping DAR ES SALAAM The city’s waterfront,The called Azania sometimes also Front, is lined 022-211 4126; www.pea (Map p90 ; cnr Sokoine Dr & Bridge St) p90 (Map

022-211 7471; www.heritage % (Map p90 ; cnr Samora Ave & Azikiwe; cnr Samora Ave St) p90 (Map

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(Map p90 ; Sokoine Dr) ; Sokoine p90 (Map

(Map ; p90 A busy, central location, rooms with ) this is one of the oldest buildings in the city, reportedly originally used to house Sultan Ma- originally this is one of the oldest buildings in the city, reportedly jid’s harem. with government buildings, all dating to the German era. Opposite is a colourful Opposite assortment to the German era. buildings, all dating with government boats. and ageing vendors of street-side cans killed in WWI, is now a favourite haunt of street touts and dubious moneychangers. touts and dubious cans killed haunt of street a favourite in WWI, is now City Hall Front Lutheran Church is another landmark. The spired cathedral, which is still in use – stop cathedral, which is still in use – stop is another landmark. Church spired The Front Lutheran see the standing-room only overflowby any Sunday morning to from the services and hear by German missionaries. church, also as the Lutheran – was built at the same time the singing In addition to the striking stained-glass in behind the main altar (best viewed late windows German inscriptions and artwork, many of the original it still contains includ- the afternoon), the main altar. above ing the carved relief Mission House Fathers’ White Old Boma St Joseph’s Cathedral Azania Front Lutheran Church Azania Front Lutheran Askari monument Askari this is one of Gothic interior, stern and a rather the water belfry overlooking a red-roofed at the turn of the 20th century by German church was built The the city’s major landmarks. use for servicesactive missionaries and is still in (beautiful – you can for choir rehearsals and the street). from sometimes hear the singing Forodhani Hotel Training Institute building Institute Training Forodhani Hotel Kivukoni Front manjaro Hotel (now the Kilimanjaro Kempinski) is the old Forodhani Hotel Training Institute (now the Kilimanjaro Kempinski)manjaro Hotel Institute Training Hotel is the old Forodhani houses the Appeals Court, It currently the British era its heyday during but enjoyed building. drink. in on occasion for a Waugh would stop Salaam Club, when Evelyn as the Dar es Germans, the Old Boma now houses various offices.

Peacock HotelPeacock you’re looking for something more upmarket upmarket looking for something more you’re listings in the city centre. than the budget a restaurant. also There’s fridge and mosquito netting in the windows. fridge with compared While it’s rather overpriced and not set options, other centrally located it’s worth a look if up for business travellers, single and most are reasonably spacious, while reasonably single and most are mini- small. All have very the single rooms are various-sized rooms – the doubles come with either one double bed, or one double plus one motel.co.tz; cnr Kalutamotel.co.tz; & Bridge Sts; s/d from US$60/72; MIDRANGE MIDRANGE Heritage Motel a private guesthouse, with meals available; guesthouse,a private with meals available; with volunteers. popular Tsh30,000/40,000/50,000) Tsh30,000/40,000/50,000) Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book ai cock-hotel.co.tz; Bibi Titi Mohamed Rd; s/d/tr US$75/85/110; Bibi Titi cock-hotel.co.tz; This place in the Asian quarter of town has of quarter This place in the Asian DAR ES SALAAM www.moevenpick-daressalaam.com; OhioSt;rfromUS$235; Upanga, just off UnitedUpanga, just off NationsRd. cluded; othermeals canbearranged. It’sin with internet connections. Breakfast isin- with helpfulhosts andsmall,spotlessrooms cosy B&Binaquiet, leafyneighbourhood, St;s/dfromUS$60/80; .swisshostel.net; Mindu the lodge issignposted to the left. Plaza, andwatch foratinybridge, after which RdnorthpastShoppers’take OldBagamoyo able. It’sabout 7kmnorthof thecitycentre: door inanannexe. Local-style mealsare avail- withafewa private house, smallerroomsnext s/dUS$50/70; www.akanalodge.com; music on Friday evenings. downstairs, andthere’s alsoabarwithlive all roomsexceptthedorm.Foodisserved room prices,andbreakfast isincludedwith isincludedin service bathrooms. Laundry double,bothsharing room andastandard bathroom, plusafour-bed backpackers’ dorm minifridge and huge –allwithsatellite TV, the executive roomsontheupperfloors are from US$50/65; US$12, s/dUS$45/55,dwithoutbathroomUS$45,executive s/d &MsasaniRds;dm 282474; [email protected];cnrHaileSelassie Q Bar&GuestHouse &MIDRANGEBUDGET Msasani Peninsula&Upanga city’s portand harbour setting. rooftop barisanidealspotto appreciate the is ratherlackingincharacter, 8 buttheLevel ern bathroomsandattractive décor. Thelobby with viewsover mod- theharbour–withsleek, arguably thebestincity–especiallythose Kempinski chain. Theultramodernroomsare completelyhotel refurbished hasbeen bythe US$250; Front;rfrom Kivukoni www.kempinski-daressalaam.com; Club golf greens. in lush gardensoverlooking theGymkhana own businesscentre andbreakfast area. It’s guests only).Executive guestshave level their andafitnesscentreexpanse) (bothforhotel rooms, plusabeautifulpool(25matitslongest ais to Standard Chartered Bank. side street andnext neartheNationalMuseum that’s openuntil10pm.It’sonaquiet,leafy telephone andabusinesscentre including TV, 94 Swiss Garden Hotel Swiss Garden Lodge Akana Kilimanjaro Kempinski Kempinski Kilimanjaro RoyalPalm Mövenpick A SSLA • Sepn DAR ESSALAAM••Sleeping ais ) Spacious,recently refurbished a (Map (Map p86 ; ) Spotless, good-value rooms– ) Thisonce-classicwaterfront (Map (Map p86 ; Mp p86; (Map

% Mp p90; (Map Mp p90; (Map 022-270 0122,022-2775261; % % a 022-260 2150,0754- 022-215 3219;www % % Roomsare in ) 022-213 1111; 022-211 2416; ai A ) ness travellers’ hotel onthewater, withwell- .goldentuliptanzania.com; Toure Dr;s/dfromUS$135/150; around asmallcourtyard,withthebetter ficient staff. It’s 1km south of Selander Bridge. It’s1kmsouthof Selander ficient staff. a restaurant, abusinesscentre, wi-fi andef- There’s onesontheupperlevel. (brighter) ais OceanRd;s/dfromUS$120/140; .proteahotels.com/courtyard; the shopping area). before (totheright entering Bank Barclays your doorstep. Thereception officeisnear meals, youhave alltheSlipwayrestaurants at including somewithviewsover thewater. For double-beddedpleasant hotel-style rooms, shopping area,Msasani withsimplebut .cc; rUS$80,dayUS$60; monthly rates are available. views over thebay.Discountedand weekly plate, sinkandrefrigerator, andsomehave Allhave Bank). just nexttoBarclays ahot- Slipway(receptionlocation attheMsasani is a 0893; [email protected];MsasaniSlipway;r/aptUS$70/90; wi-fi and with TV, a restaurant. butspaciousandgood-valuespartan rooms the bright-blue ArtDecoarchitecture –with completely renovatedtion hasbeen –lookfor US$65/90/100; 213 0985;www.pbhtz.com;AliHassanMwinyiRd;s/d/tr south of Sea Cliff Hotel. Rooms don’tquite Cliff south of Sea a favourite withconference groups–isjust thislaid-back place– onalow cliff, ful setting ais included inthe room prices. pub ( p97 ) downstairs. Airportpick-upsare appointed roomswithwi-fi and O’Willie’s sea viewfromUS$90/145; www.peninsulaseaviewhotel.com; ChuiBayRd;r without/with Hotel Peninsula Seaview TOP END fitness and business centres. and accesstothe come withkitchenette, TV Bridge.compound justnorthof All Selander apartmentsinasecure Modern fullyserviced & AliHassanMwinyiRds;aptfromUS$145; cnrHaileSelassie 266 6665;www.proteahotels.com/oysterbay; dows don’t have flyscreens. If youdon’tlike air-con, note thatthewin- Souk Msasani SlipwayApartments Golden Tulip DaresSalaamApartments Protea Protea Courtyard Courtyard Protea ) Palm BeachHotel Furnished,modernapartmentsinagood

Mp p86; (Map ) ) Overlooking theoceaninabeauti- Overlooking Comfortable, modernrooms Comfortable, ai ( Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels a p86; Map % ThisDaresSalaaminstitu- ) Mp p86; (Map Mp p86; (Map

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DAR ES SALAAM

95 A This Dark, lunch & h A no-frills A no-frills lunch & dinner) A lunch buffet buffet A lunch h 022-212 6888, 0787- 7am-7pm Mon-Sat) breakfast, lunch & dinner) breakfast, 022-213 6006; Samora Ave; Samora Ave; 022-213 6006; % h (Map p90 ; Samora Ave; meals ; Samora Ave; p90 (Map h 022-213 7444; Samora Ave; meals 022-213 7444; Samora Ave; 022-213 7575; Holiday Inn, Garden % 8am-11pm) Fast-food pizzas, 8am-11pm) Fast-food

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(Map p90; h h and sauce, if you haven’t already. haven’t and sauce, if you (Map p90 ; cnr Samora Ave & Ohio St; meals from ; cnr Samora Ave p90 (Map A small, informal eatery located in in located A small, informal eatery (Map p90 ; Also recommended: Baraza Nyumba ya Sanaa City Garden Alcove Épi d’Or Al Basha tures standard fare, plus pizza, Indian and Indian and plus pizza, standard fare, tures and even dishes, some Chinese vegetarian cuisine. and indoor or outdoor seating. and indoor or outdoor Tsh2000; Tsh2000; district. in the central business Local fare Tsh4000) self-catering. Mission St) For fare, and is as good a place as any to try and is as good a place as any to try fare, ugali meals from Tsh8000; Ave; Swahili cuisine. grills and dinner) from Tsh4500; décor and tasty Indian and Chinese heavy dishes. vegetarian cuisine, including Steers Rendezvous Restaurant Debonairs Pizza City Supermarket MIDRANGE & TOP END Tausi Mohamed Rd; meals from Tsh7000; local and Western has a mix of restaurant dishes, plus burgers and subs. It’s just off and subs. It’s just off dishes, plus burgers blocks northwest Morogoro Rd, and a few Ave. Samora of Ohio St; meals from Tsh2000; Cultural Centre, local fare. from Tsh4000; to Friday) and à la carte Monday (Tsh8500; standards as grilled dining, featuring such out- a shady There’s rice. and fish/chicken the few and it’s one of door seating area, on Sunday. open places in the city centre light meals from Tsh1500; Tsh1500; light meals from a mouth-wa- with bakery-café French-run (sup- breads baked freshly selectiontering of pastries run out by midday), plies usually and light other plus hummus and lunches, Eastern dishes. Middle with hummus and other Lebanese eatery pizzas from Tsh5500; pizzas from Tsh5500; the Nyumba ya Sanaa crafts centre, serv- crafts centre, the Nyumba ya Sanaa and other and chips chicken of ing plates 909000; Indira Gandhi St; snacks from Tsh1500, meals meals 909000; Indira Gandhi St; snacks from Tsh1500, Tsh6000; Good à la carte dining featuring seafood seafood dining featuring Good à la carte )

ais (a staple (a staple This long- A lovely, in- A lovely, ) ugali DAR ES SALAAM •• Eating 022-260 0380/7; www A tiny Indian place % 022-261 7496; www.retreat 022-260 1928, 0784-783858; 022-260 1928, 0784-783858; ais % % Sea Cliff an excel- has ) (Map ; p86 (Map p90 ; Chagga St; meals from Tsh1500; ; Chagga St; meals from Tsh1500; p90 (Map (Map ; p86 (Map p90 ; Zanaki St; snacks from Tsh200; ; Zanaki St; snacks from Tsh200; p90 (Map

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lunch & dinner, closed during Ramadan) 8am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat) Sea Cliff Hotel Sea Cliff Hotel Retreat

Al-Qayam Chef’s Pride Coral Beach ing a slice of local life. The large menu fea- The large local life. ing a slice of hotels, and a Dar es Salaam classic, offer- hotels, h is within standing and popular local eatery Kisutu budget the easy walking distance of h local flavour. oozing and Jamhuri Sts. Jamhuri and takeaways, head to the area around Zanakitakeaways, head to the area dishing up plates of rice or of dishing up plates flour, or both) made from maize or cassava Indian food and For inexpensive with sauce. ner of Garden Ave and Pamba Rd, and along Rd, and Pamba Garden Ave ner of Kivukoni Front, all busiest around midday, BUDGET BUDGET stalls food, try the near the cor- For street City Centre City Centre EATING EATING closed are city centre in the Most restaurants on Sunday. a restaurant. Avoid the less expensive but less but less the less expensive Avoid a restaurant. appealing and viewless rooms in an annexe next door. live up to expectations. On the grounds are up to expectations. On the grounds are live masseur and a resident a small fitness centre, at the northern tip of Msasani Peninsula, Msasaniat the northern tip of Peninsula, although the standard rooms don’t always US$190/220; the ocean settinglent, breezy overlooking 10km north of town off New Bagamoyo town off Rd, 10km north of set in tropical gardens and notable also for its good value. Very cuisine. timate six-room place on the beach about about six-room place on the beach timate a restaurant. northern end of Msasani Peninsula. The fam- Msasaninorthern end of Peninsula. beds, and there’s two large ily rooms have comfortable rooms – though many don’t views – in a secluded location near the have A quiet, often overlooked boutique hotel ca- hotel boutique overlooked A quiet, often and with large travellers, to business tering www.coralbeach-tz.com; s/d/f US$135/155/175, www.coralbeach-tz.com; pool and a usually deserted restaurant-bar usually desertedpool and a restaurant-bar and small balconies, All rooms have area. sea views. full have suites live up to potential, but the grounds go a long go a but the grounds up to potential, live seaside with a beautiful compensate, way to Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book safaris.co.tz; d about US$170; safaris.co.tz; .hotelseacliff.com; Toure Dr; s/d without/with sea view from Dr; s/d without/with sea view from Toure .hotelseacliff.com; DAR ES SALAAM fet Tsh15,000) meals fromTsh5000; 754074; Oyster BayShoppingCentre; mealsfrom Tsh7000) dishes. Italian group of regulars with itsgoodpizzaand placethatattractsaloyallong-standing Ave; mealsfromTsh5500; signposted off Mgombani St. including arange of vegetarian It’s selections. ofmouth-watering selection Ethiopiandishes, with great coffees. ( bar andMsumbiCoffee House opposite ), including Épid’Orbakery, apizzeria, a juice and frequently changing of selection eateries, CliffVillage Sea Msasani Peninsula fets most nights. except Heritage Motel alsohave buf- evening (Tsh29,000),buffet andallof places these Kempinski alsohasaSundaybrunch family Monday toFridayonly.TheKilimanjaro Sts;buffet Tsh5000) &Bridge .co.tz; cnrKaluta Motel Grill Bandari Hotel’s Africa % Front;buffet Tsh25,000)Kivukoni Kempinski Kilimanjaro p90 ; (Map atthe cluding those Lunchtime fanshave buffet a choice, in- BUFFETS out. evening for businesslunches asitisforaromantic cuisine, andanambiencethat’sasoptimal town, withexcellentsushiandAsian fusion some connoisseurs tobe thebestrestaurant in from US$20; Front;meals Hotel, Kivukoni Kempinski salaam.com; Kilimanjaro walls. the changingand aconstantly colourscheme on cuisineontheplatesery, withdeliciousItalian isthisultramoderneat- Next doortoKiboBar from Tsh15,000; and pubfare at all hours. atlunchtime onweekdays, stations and salad Design-your-own omelette sandwich, pasta, Palm, OhioSt;mealsTsh11,000-15,000; 96 Sweet Eazy Restaurant &Lounge Sweet EazyRestaurant Oriental L’Oliveto Bar Kibo La Trattoria Jan La Trattoria Addis inDar 022-213 7575; Garden Ave;022-213 7575;Garden buffet Tsh16,000) A SSLA • Dikn DAR ESSALAAM••Drinking

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Mp p86; (Map (Map (Map p86 ; Toure Dr; % 022-213 1111;www.kempinski-dares h lunch & dinner Tue-Fri, dinnerSat&Sun) lunch &dinnerTue-Fri,

Mp p86; (Map 022-211 7471;www.heritagemotel % lunch &dinnerMon-Sat) h 022-211 2416;MövenpickRoyal % Mp p90 ; (Map lunch &dinner) Mövenpick RoyalPalmMövenpick

% Mp p0; zkw S; buf- St; Azikiwe p90 ; (Map , 0713-266299; 35UrsinoSt; Holiday Inn 022-255 7640; Kimweri 022-255 7640;Kimweri h Considered by % h (Map p86 ; (Map

all day) 022-213 1111; lunch-11.30pm) A homy, . Allare Offers a Offers Asmall

Mp p90 ; (Map Heritage Heritage % , New 0755- ,

Tsh1000) and gourmet cheese and sausage prod- andsausage and gourmetcheese overlooking of thewater, andaselection includingsometableswith terrace seating, Tsh8500-30,000; ucts, andthegood (cones fromTsh2000) places include fromburgerseverything tosushi.Eating % 8pm. at commencesat 7.30pmandthemealitself and traditional-stylehandwashingstarts bookings are recommended. highly Seating style).AdvanceAfrican orMiddleEastern eatenfusion cuisine(noforks–everything’s featuring Tanzanian-Arabian-Moroccan five-course menu(formaximum16guests) and throwpillowsonthefloor,aset viewsoverwith sunset thewater, cushions rooftop placeatthePeninsula Hotel Seaview Hotel, ChuiBayRd;setmenuUS$25; over the water. next doortoGoldenTuliphotel, withviews 3-11pmThu) Fri-Wed, 260 0678;Toure Dr;mealsfromTsh8000; Thursday and Saturday. specialities,andlive music Thai andseafood but there are afew good spots. with theintensity theyhave inothercities, made theirwayinto localDaresSalaamlife Neither thecafé northepubscenehave DRINKING Supermarket Village Shoprite For self-catering: pipe) lounge and sports bar. cuisineupstairs, a nental Indian dishesandgrillsdownstairs, conti- is arelaxed restaurant-nightclub featuring Bistro with grilledfish and pub-stylefare. Bar&Grill Waterfront Mashua ladies, whiledirectly onthewater isthe forladiesdiningwithon Wednesdaynight with Japanese cuisineanddiscounted meals Located upstairs is well-prepared dishes. andseafood Italian imported imported products. ofWesternfoodsand butwideselection Toure Dr)Pricey The eateries at 81 Steps Chongqing Chinese Restaurant Chongqing ChineseRestaurant 022-260 0893;MsasaniSlipway;

Mp p86 ; (Map for sustainably producedbakery forsustainably (Map (Map p86 ; MsasaniSlipway) Mp p86; (Map h % Well-prepared food Chinese Fairy Shop DelightsIceCream dinner Mon-Fri, lunch&dinnerSat) dinner Mon-Fri, , % 022-260 0800; Haile Selassie Rd) 022-260 0800;HaileSelassie Mp p6; e Cif Village, Cliff Sea p86; (Map Melela Bustani Melela Msasani Slipway Azuma Azuma 022-260 1273;Peninsula Seaview Terrace Restaurant (meals fromTsh9000) (meals fromTsh6500) sheesha

h lonelyplanet.com h Mp p86; (Map h dinner) all day)

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and several other 8.30am-5pm) (Map p86 ; wasaniicentre@yahoo 10am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm

(Map p86 ; Morogoro Stores, Haile ; Morogoro Stores, p86 (Map

h This local artists coopera- This local artists (Map p90 ; Mwalimu Julius K Nyerere ; Mwalimu Julius K Nyerere p90 (Map h

A showcase for up-and-coming High-quality paintings, woodcarvings COMMUNITY TOURISM SPOTLIGHT: COMMUNITY TOURISM SPOTLIGHT: GALLERY MAWAZO Together with friends and colleagues, Mawazo Gallery founder Rachel Kessi has the in revitalising made a significant step local Dar es Salaam art Mawazo scene. (meaning ‘ideas’ or ‘thoughts’) was estab- local artists a forum lished in 2003 to give ar- for exhibiting their work and promote Since then it has quietly tistic development. established a foothold in the local cultural scene as an artist’s meeting point, and as the force behind the semi-annual Makutano ). p98 arts and crafts fair (see Wasanii Art Gallery Wasanii Art Gallery For last-minute craft shopping, craft shopping, For last-minute Curio shops with batiks, woodcarvings Mawazo Gallery & Art Café Mawazo Gallery & Art Café CentreTingatinga Msasani Slipway Weekend Craft Market Msasani Slipway Weekend Craft Market (Julius International Airport) Nyerere have lounge shops in the airport departure good selections. throughout scattered and other crafts are near the around Samora Ave the city centre but quality is good and the atmosphere calm. the atmosphere but quality is good and selection a large In addition to crafts, there’s paintings. Tingatinga-style of and crafts. Selassie Rd, Oyster Bay; Saidi Tingatinga Edward is at the spot where it’s his designs, and ) originally marketed p34 ( the best places to buy Tingatinga still one of at work. the artists paintings and watch Sunday, plus occasional special afternoon afternoon special plus occasional Sunday, highlightingprogrammes of the dances individual tribes. SHOPPING & Paintings Handicrafts Nyumba ya Sanaa Ohio St) Cultural Centre, from around and crafts daily sells textiles tive the some of watch the country; you can also artists at work. Msasani Slipway, Msasani Peninsula; in town, elsewhere than slightly higher here are 782770; Upanga Rd; Sat) Tanzanian Tanzanian artists. .co.uk; Msasani Slipway, Msasani Peninsula; Peninsula; Msasani Slipway, Msasani .co.uk; Fri, to 6pm Sat)

7am- 022-260 shows Kibo (Map p90 ; A classic h % 022-270 0437; 022-270 0437; (Map p86 ; www 022-211 6574/5/6; % (Map p86 ; p86 (Map % 022-260 0893; Msasani 0893; Msasani 022-260 022-260 0800; Haile Selassie022-260 0800; Haile %

% Sat & Sun) Packed with locals Sat & Sun) Packed Traditional dance per- (Map p86 ; Sea Cliff Village) A p86 (Map (Map ; p102 213 6006; Samora Ave; (Map p90 ; h 022-260 2150, 0754-282474; cnr Haile 022-260 2150, 0754-282474; A cosy British pub near the British pub A cosy on Friday, Saturday and on Friday, Saturday and Happy hours (5pm to 7pm (5pm to 7pm hours Happy •• Entertainment DAR ES SALAAM % % 022-211 2416; Mövenpick Royal Palm, 022-211 2416; Mövenpick Royal Palm,

(Map p86 ; (Map p86 ; Msasani Slipway % A rooftop bar with views over bar with views over A rooftop (Map p90 ; 8th fl, Kilimanjaro; 8th fl, Kempinski, p90 (Map (Map p86 ; p86 (Map

noon-11pm) noon to 11.30pm) Upmarket sports bar at the (Map p86 ;

(Map p90 ; p90 (Map (drumming and dancing) perform- h h

British Council (Map p90 ; p90 (Map Also recommended:

Village Museum O’Willie’s Irish Whiskey Tavern O’Willie’s Irish Whiskey Tavern Level 8 Garden Bistro Q Bar Slipway Pub Slipway Happy hours Sunday through to Thursday Sunday through to Thursday hours Happy range of good coffees, and roasted beans for sale. range of good coffees, Ohio St; hotel. Palm Mövenpick Royal 7pm Mon-Sat) Good coffee and juices. and 7pm Mon-Sat) Good coffee ances from 4pm to 6pm on Saturday and ances from 4pm to 6pm on Saturday and www.museum.or.tz; cnr New Bagamoyo Rd & Makaburiwww.museum.or.tz; St) events around the city. events around Nyumba ya Sanaa, Ohio St) formances at 7pm on Friday, and the best traditional dance place to find out about Mwalimu Julius K Nyerere Cultural Centre Sunday evenings. Traditional Music & Dance shown at the 0893; Msasani Slipway) [email protected]; cnr Ohio St & Samora Ave) cnr Ohio [email protected]; also are cultural films. Movies occasional free Cinemas Cinemas The

For the latest on what’s on around town, on what’s on around town, For the latest ), the bul- p87 magazines ( the listings check ) and right letin board at Nyumba ya Sanaa ( www.naomba.com. ENTERTAINMENT ENTERTAINMENT Coco Beach Coco Beach Msumbi Coffee House Msumbi Coffee House Épi d’Or .owillies.com; Peninsula Seaview Hotel, Chui Bay Rd) Peninsula .owillies.com; the expat crowd, Irish pub, and popular with for the pro- its website music (check with live and seafoodgramme), pub food, pizza grills. some evenings. Kivukoni Front) seating music the harbour, lounge and live big-screen sports TV. sports big-screen Selassie & Msasani Rds) Fridays and music on live Monday to Friday), Rd) on weekends. music and live water, with drinks and meals, and sports TV. sports and meals, and with drinks water, Slipway; lonelyplanet.com on weekends, setting for an and an amenable seaside beer. inexpensive Bar Ngoma DAR ES SALAAM International Airport (open4amto9pm). International Airport 4239; OhioSt)AlsoatTerminal Two,JuliusNyerere Terminal One,JuliusNyerere International Airport. 022-284 3293;[email protected]; UpangaRd)Alsoat Emirates Airlines Emirates Coastal Aviation Airways British Air Tanzania Air India Salaam include the following: (see ZanAir p127 inDares ). Airlineoffices arethe bestcontacts Aviation Coastal and nections, see p346 toZanzibar, . Forflights formation, includinginternational con- flight Formore in- the hubfordomesticservices. major arrivalpointforoverseas and flights Julius Nyerere International Airportisthe Air left. the minutes onfootdownthesmallstreet to the endof theroute, fromwhere it’sfive dalla atwork.Takecarvers theMwenge is packed withvendors, andyoucanwatch Rd, NewBagamoyo andjustoff Museum, h Market MwengeCarvers’ Woodcarvings ([email protected]) by Dr andorganised each May andNovember Messheld atthePoliceOfficers’ onToure artsandcraftsfairwatch forthesemi-annual crafts.Alsoboutiques withhigh-quality Askari monument.Mosttop-endhotels have 98 Plaza, cnr Kisutu & Plaza, cnrKisutu India Sts) 4082; MövenpickRoyalPalm, Ohio St) Mwinyi &BibiTiti Mohamed Rds) GETTING THERE&AWAY Plaza (Map p86 ; Toure Dr) Sts) Msimbazi &Mkunguni (Map p86 ; UhuruSt) Rd) headtothe For agentleinitiationintoDaresSalaam’smarkets, DAR’S MARKETS For more excitement, getareliable taxidriver orTanzanian youto friendtotake women) andothertextiles, trythevendors andwholesaleshopsat For Western-style shopping,try Titi Mohamed Rd) 8am-6pm) Makutano – The Centre forTanzanian Centre –The Art Makutano A SSLA • GtigTee&Aa There &Away DAR ESSALAAM••Getting from New Posta transport stand to transportstand fromNewPosta , near Kivukoni Front. It’s fairly calm as urban markets go,andyoucanwatchfishauctions. Front.It’sfairlycalmasurbanmarkets , nearKivukoni (Map (Map p90 ;

(Map (Map p86 ; OldBagamoyoRd). Thismarket, opposite theVillage Mp p90; (Map (Map (Map p90 ; (Map (Map p90 ; (Map (Map p90 ; % . , both at the northern endofMsasaniPeninsula,, bothatthenorthern andthelessglitzy , nearShaurimoyoRd,ortothehuge,sprawling 022-215 2642;cnrAliHassan % . % (Map (Map 022-211 7500,022-284 , Tanzania’s largest; don’tbringvaluablesandwatchoutforpickpockets. % % 022-211 3820,022-284 022-211 7959/60, 022-211 6100;Haidery p102 ; For Sam NujomaRd; Msasani Slipway kangas dalla- (printed cottonwraparoundswornbymanyTanzanian

Miy Rds) Mwinyi Towers,cnrBibiTiti Mohamed&AliHassan 7044; Raha Ground fl, Haidery Plaza, cnr Kisutu & Ground fl,HaideryPlaza,cnrKisutu India Sts) Ohio St)OppositeMövenpickRoyalPalm hotel. 8870; Luther HouseCentre Hostel,Sokoine Dr) with Kenya with Kenya Airways. Rd) Located with KLM. South African Airways South African 5am to 10pm). Terminal (open Two,JuliusNyerere InternationalAirport 3547, 0787-888407;cnrSamoraAve &Pamba Rd)Alsoat Air Precision deMoçambique Linhas Aéreas KLM Airways Kenya Front) Hotel,Kivukoni [email protected]; Kempinski Kilimanjaro Airways Jet Ethiopian Airlines es Salaam, Zanzibar es Salaam, Zanzibar and Pemba. routesThe mainpassenger are Dar between Boat terminal whenpurchasing your ticket. further downtheroad.Verify thedeparture Terminal One(the‘old’ terminal), about700m small planesandmostcharters depart from on coming fromtown),whilemanyflights ‘new’ terminal, andthefirst oneyoureach departfrom Terminaltional flights Two(the andall interna-scheduled domesticflights The airporthastwoterminals. Mostregularly International Airport) ZanAir Zambian Airways Yemenia Yemen Airways Airlines Swiss International (www.fasttracktanzania.com). SamoraAve)213 4600;1stfl,JMMall, AtFast-Track Travel St) OppositeMövenpickRoyalPalm hotel. (Map (Map p86 ; MsasaniPeninsula) (Map (Map p90 ; ( % 022-284 3297;Terminal One,JuliusNyerere Mp p90; (Map (Map (Map p90 ; % Mp p90; (Map (Map (Map p90 ; 022-213 9790/1;UpangaRd)Located (Map (Map p90 ; fish market Kariakoo MarketKariakoo Mnazi Mmoja % (SAA; Map (SAA;Map p90 ; % (Map (Map p90 ; % 022-212 7734;jetairway 022-216 8000,022-284 or % % (Map (Map p90 ; 022-211 9376/7;Upanga Sea CliffVillage 022-212 8885/6; (Map (Map p90 ; 022-211 7063;Ohio

Mp p0; Ocean p90; (Map lonelyplanet.com Ilala Market % Mp p0; Bibi p90; (Map % Shoppers’

% 022-212 6036; Mp p86; (Map 022-211 % 022-211 022-

DAR ES SALAAM 99 022-218 4833/4; % 022-212 4073; Libya St, (Map p86 ; % (Map p90 ; (Map p90 ; Libya St, Kisutu) Daily buses to p90 (Map For information about busesFor information about between Dar Arusha (Tsh17,000) departing at 6am, 7am, 8am, 9am and bus station. 10am from Ubungo Car & Motorcycle Car & Motorcycle agencies. for car-rental p100 See www.scandinaviagroup.com; cnr Msimbazi St & Nyerere Msimbazi St & Nyerere www.scandinaviagroup.com; cnr arrivalsRd) Has its own bus terminal for and departures you book tickets).(which is also where It’s calmer than though all Scandi- Ubungo, and closer to the city centre, at least There’s buses also pass by Ubungo. navian Express one bus daily to Iringa and Mbeya, another via Iringa to Njombe and Songea, two daily to Dodoma and several in flux at the time of daily to Arusha, but many routes were daily an update. publication, so contact for Scandinavian Express daily The following table lists price and frequency (Tsh) Frequency from Dar es Salaam to various for bus travel daily locations: 3 Destination Price daily 2 daily Arusha 18,000-24,000 Dodoma 10,000-13,000 daily daily 1 Iringa 15,000 daily Kampala 62,000 1 1 Mbeya 25,000 Mwanza 50,000 1 1 Nairobi 39,000 Songea 27,000 1 depart from Minibuses to Kilwa Masoko bus stand, about 5km located Temeke just off Nelson the city centre, southwest of Mandela Rd. Zambia and Uganda, es Salaam and Kenya, . p349 see Malawi, bus office itself. bus Dar Express Royal Coach Scandinavian Express other spots in town. Taxis from the city cen- from the Taxis spots in town. other coming If you’re about Tsh8000. cost from tre Express, on Scandinavian into Dar es Salaam you bus lines, and Royal Coach Dar Express can usually stayUbungo until on the bus past worth is – which town office the bus line’s and you’ll will be less chaotic doing as it Except to your hotel. taxi fare a cheaper have you buses (which Express for Scandinavian it doesn’t can also board at its terminal), the city, since departures work out leaving To book tickets, from Ubungo. directly are follow- (listed head to the bus line offices inside the only buy tickets usual, ing). As Kisutu) Daily departures to Arusha (Tsh22,000) at 9am Kisutu office). from its from Ubungo bus station (7am

(Sea (Sea and which which Sea Star, Star, Sea (Seabus) (Seabus), and 10pm 2pm New Happy New Happy 10am Flying Horse, ) daily between Dar es (Sea Express) (Sea also runs daily between (Sea Star), (Sea . All take 1½ hours and cost and 1½ hours . All take (Sea Star), (Sea •• Getting DAR ES SALAAM & Away There Seabus arriving before dawn the dawn the arriving before 4pm to Ubungo (Tsh200) leave from from leave to Ubungo (Tsh200) . Sepideh or (Seabus) 10.30am each depart several each weekly times at (Seabus),

For ferry connections to Pemba, see p148 . p148 see to Pemba, connections For ferry

Only buy your tickets at the ticket windows – at the ticket Only buy your tickets The MS Ferry departures from Zanzibar (Map p86 ) p86 from Zanzibar departures (Map Ferry Flying Horse, stands (Map p90 ), as well as from various ), as well as from various p90 stands (Map Dalla-dallas the local New Posta and Old Posta transport and touts. Keep an eye on your luggage and and an eye on your luggage and touts. Keep arriving at night. your wallet and try to avoid on Morogoro Rd. It’s a sprawling place with on Morogoro Rd. It’s a sprawling place with bus station hustle the usual assortment of Except as noted following, all buses depart Except following, all buses as noted depart at the main bus station at from and arrive the city centre 8km west of Ubungo, about Bus Bus There are currently no boats running between no boats running currently are There Mtwara. Dar es Salaam and TO/FROM MTWARA TO/FROM MTWARA the boat with them, you’re likely to have prob- to have likely the boat with them, you’re when the tout or his buddies come lems later the favour. around to collect payment for less expensive resident rates; although rates; it’s easy resident less expensive on and get tickets resident-rate enough to get tax). Also, avoid touts who want to take you touts who want to take tax). Also, avoid or tickets, ferry into town to buy ‘cheaper’ for you at tickets to purchase ferry who offer the ticket price (which includes the US$5 port includes the US$5 price (which the ticket – and don’t fall for touts at the harbour trying certificates’, for ‘doctors’ to collect extra fees is The only fee and the like. taxes departure each company has its own, all lined up on each Joseph’s St Kivukoni Front opposite Cathedral US$35). Vehicles can be transported on the can be transported US$35). Vehicles New Happy Dar and Zanzibar, departing from Dar at 7.30am and Zanzibar at 4pm (one way 1pm ( next day). are daily at 7am are Aziza hours). three noon (one way US$25, departs daily at 12.30pm (one way US$25) departs daily at 12.30pm almost four hours. and takes the air-con hold). There are also several slow are hold). There the air-con main one is The ferries. and 4pm you a seat (VIP gets in US$35/40 regular/VIP Sea Express Sea Salaam and Zanzibar, at 7.30am departing Express), TO/FROM ZANZIBAR & PEMBA & PEMBA ZANZIBAR TO/FROM severaltrips (on ferry ‘fast’ are There lonelyplanet.com DAR ES SALAAM west of the ferry terminal. block awayfromGreen Car Rentals. franchise,a St)A Hertz .com; cnrNyerere Rd&Swahili Tours jaro Kempinski mate.co.tz; CholeRd)NeartheSlipway turn-off. to board with luggage. First andlaststops are ably packed tooverflowing, andare difficult where inthecityforTsh200. Theyare invari- Dalla-dallas Public Transport Mate Travel Hertz Rentals Car Green Avis include the following: offer unlimited kilometres. agencies Rental optionsintown;none agencies offer self-drive See p359 forgeneral information.Mostrental Car &Motorcycle Peninsula Tsh20,000 to Tsh25,000). Dar esSalaamcostTsh10,000 (toMsasani generally noroomforluggage. Taxis tocentral the tripcantake over anhour,andthere’s Inheavy transportstand. traffic New Posta (marked U/Ndege) gototheairportfrom 12km fromthecitycentre. Julius Nyerere International Airportisabout To/From theAirport GETTING AROUND St&SokoineDr) Railway station Line)train Tanzanian Corporation(Central Railways iscurrently see Dodoma section closed), p361 . Dodoma, KigomaandMwanza(theDarto Buguruni. or andarestands, marked Vigunguti,U/Ndege leave transport fromeitherNeworOldPosta in ataxi). 6km southwestof thecity centre (Tsh6000 9am-12.30pmSat) 12.30pm &2-4.30pmMon-Fri, Rds; cnr Nyerere & NelsonMandela p86; Map see (Zambia), p361 . The Dar esSalaam,MbeyaandKapiri Mposhi For informationabout theTazara linebetween Train 100 in the area.Gerezani mended place,withcompetitiverates. It’snearMDMotors 022-218 2107;www.greencars.co.tz; Nyerere Rd)Arecom- .com) For more on Central Line trains between Linetrains between For more onCentral ( (Map (Map p90 ; OhioSt) % Airport (Map (Map p86 ; RUDDRE AAM • uuHls AROUND DARES SALAAM ••Pugu Hills

Mp p90; (Map % 022-211 5381,022-2121061/2;www.avisworld (Julius Nyerere International (Julius Airport); (Map (Map p90 Front); ; Kivukoni 022-286 5187,0713-225292;www.tazara.co.tz; (Map (Map p86 ; Dalla-dallas (minibuses) goalmost every- (minibuses) % % (Map (Map p86 ; 022-218 2612;hertz@cats-net isinthecitycentre south- 022-211 7833; www.trctz.com; cnr 022-211 7833;www.trctz.com; % 022-260 0573;info@travel tothetrainstation % Tazara trainstation h 022-218 2022, ticket office7.30am- ticket Skylink Travel& Dalla-dallas isabout Kiliman- (off

Mövenpick RoyalPalm hotel (Map p90 ), the mainpost office. mwisho to Temeke busstandalsoleavefromhere; askfor ‘Temeke Samora Ave neartheCentralLineTrainStation; Down from the Azania FrontLutheran Down fromtheAzania Church. [email protected]) Godwin Muganga posite theMövenpick RoyalPalm hotel, and ( for airportpick-ups,include p86). (Map andHailethe cornerof Rds Msasani Selassie (Map p90 Peninsula) andontheMsasani on on thecornerof AzikiweStandSokoineDr (Tsh8000 toSea Village). Cliff centre Peninsula toMsasani atTsh5000 start city centre costTsh2000. Fares fromthecity Taxis don’thave meters. Short rideswithinthe Taxi stand transport Stesheni stand Old Postatransport stand New Postatransport nation. Terminals include the following: confirm thatthedriver isgoingtoyourdesti- shown inthefrontwindow,butroutes vary,so south of themainround about. Thetrailheads just (Natural Resources) office inKisarawe, require apermit(Tsh5000) from theMali Asili There are twoshortWCST hikingtrails,which are travelled, onlylightly andgood for biking. into politics full-time. where JuliusNyerere before taught entering and it’sthesite School, of PuguSecondary were missionstations here, established several also interesting fromahistoricalperspective: Puguis quite traditionalandconservative. all, andmanycommunitieshave remained to thecity,Puguarea at isnoturbanised from theurbanscene. Despite itsproximity andoffersforest achange reserves, of pace small wooded,withseveral islightly Kisarawe, west of DaresSalaamandextends past PUGU HILLS SALAAM AROUND DARES Pugu Hills,which beginsabout15kmsouth- % Reliable taxi drivers,Reliable taxi recommended also Taxi opposite the includethose stands Pugu’s roads(mostof which are unsealed) 0784-339735; [email protected]) ’. ( % 0713-252459, 0757-080659; (Map (Map p90 St)Off ; Algeria . Mp p0; oon Dr) Sokoine p90; (Map (Map (Map p90 St)At ; Maktaba lonelyplanet.com Jumanne Mastoke , based op- , based Dalla-dallas

DAR ES SALAAM 101 COMMUNITY TOURISM SPOTLIGHT: COMMUNITY TOURISM SPOTLIGHT: PUGU HILLS Hills makes an ideal destination for Pugu in local environmental anyone interested and conservation Walks can be ar- issues. ranged to a nearby charcoal production site is dis- Forest at which Pugu to see the rate appearing, and ideas and collaboration are welcomed to halt the destruction of the for- going, check out www.puguhills est. Before for background the ancient on .com/forests and on the conservation Forest activi- Pugu Centre. Hills Nature ties of the Pugu to populations of coconut crabs, and dol- coconut crabs, to populations of in the sur- phins can sometimes be spotted several nearby are There rounding waters. sides. most off the islands’ eastern sites, dive sandbank without is a large Fungu Yasini has only a tiny while Pangavini vegetation, is low coral its perimeter of Much area. beach outcrops making docking difficult, and it’s The uninhabited islands of Bongoyo, Bongoyo, islands of The uninhabited just and Fungu Yasini, Mbudya, Pangavini Dar es Salaam, of the coastline north off es the Dar in 1975 as part of gazetted were Reserve Salaam Marine Bongoyo and system. islands, and visited Mbudya – the two most facilities – offer the only ones with tourist by dense vegeta- backed beaches attractive walking trails, and short tion, snorkelling from the city. getaway an enjoyable and make the Swimming is possible at any time, unlike where situation on the mainland beaches, swimming is tide-dependent. Although and on weekends both attract many visitors enough space, especially holidays, there’s so you can usually on Mbudya’s long beach, home find a peaceful spot. The islands are airport). Continue straight Continue airport). along the unsealed a Kisarawe the end of 200m, to for about road there’s left, where shops on your tiny group of 15 (about up to Pugu Hills a dirt path leading Kiki’s on foot); ask for Bwana further minutes station, from the old Agip By vehicle, place. follow the sealed left, continue road to the then turn rightabout 1.2km, unmarked at an warehouse past a chicken dirt path running the railroad (the turn-off before is about 50m uphill, along a roughtracks). Continue 2km Pugu Hills. road, to OFFSHORE ISLANDS Ras Kimbiji Kutani Ras Mnasi Kimbiji 1 Ras Pemba Buyuni 3 B O C E A N I N D I A N B2 B2 B2 B2 Sinda 1 2 3 4 Gezaulole 00 10 km 6 miles Dar es Salaam Bay 4 (thatched-roof huts (thatched-roof 2 Kigamboni bandas

Mjimwema River is a good, breezy place on a is a good, breezy Mtoni- 0754-565498, 0754-394875; www.pugu Mtongani SALAAM •• Offshore Islands AROUND DAR ES Kongowe

See Greater Dar es Salaam Map (p86)

Mbagala % Mbezi from Msimbazi to Kisarawe leave Bongoyo (

Mbudya Kipepeo Beach & Village...... Ras Kutani...... South Beach Resort...... Amani Beach Hotel...... Sunrise Beach Resort...... (see 2) SLEEPING A Airport

Yasini Fungu Kawe River Mbande See Northern Beaches Map (p102)

Hills Pugu

Mwenge

Dar es Salaam Msinga Tegeta

Pugu Hills Pugu Hills AROUND DAR ES SALAAM DAR AROUND 2 3 1 Mkuranga Ukonga Mbezi

Kisarawe Getting There & Away Getting There & Away 7km before Kisarawe, and about 7km past the 7km before to drop you at the old Agip station (about to drop you at the old Agip St in Kariakoo. You can also get them on them on You can also get St in Kariakoo. For Pugu Rd at the airport turn-off. Nyerere ask the driver and restaurant, Hills camp site Dalla-dallas spacious, en suite spacious, en suite person bandas US$50) reserve with four hillside backing onto a forest also with wooden or earthen walls). There’s along with shower your tent, to pitch an area servingfacilities and a restaurant vegetarian groups and overland and other meals. Large Nearby are trucks cannot be accommodated. walk to including a short some hiking paths, Call Dar es Salaam. a lookout with views over or in advance, whether for overnight or SMS day visits. you’re sure that you’re nowhere in its vicinity. in nowhere that you’re sure you’re 4-6 camping per person Tsh6000, entry Tsh2000, hills.com; takes about 30 minutes. There’s a military base There’s about 30 minutes. takes unless anywhere pictures in Pugu, so don’t take are 15 minutes from the office on foot; each trail on foot; each from the office 15 minutes are lonelyplanet.com DAR ES SALAAM city and – with a selection ofcity and– withaselection swimming pools beaches here make arelaxing break fromthe coastline,the island ambienceof Zanzibar’s getaway. Whilelackingtheexotictropical lined withresorts andisapopularweekend Salaam andeastof Rdis NewBagamoyo NORTHERN BEACHES people, including entry fees). (about Tsh10,000 perperson, minimumtwo Breeze Marine ( Sea right ) arrange excursions of DaresSalaam,andallthehotels there, plus island isbestreached fromthebeaches north banda Tsh20,000, perpersonincltentrental Tsh30,000) camping day. There are thatched equipment canberented forTsh10,000 per about Tsh6000, asare drinks,andsnorkelling yard. Grilledfish andchips are available for Near theisland’snorthernendisanoldgrave- edge), shortwalkingtrailsandsnorkelling. longest onerunsalongtheisland’swestern beaches (the bestand & Resort,hasseveral rectly Hotel offshore fromKunduchi Beach Pretty Mbudya, northof Bongoyo,anddi- Mbudya fromtheretance toBongoyoislonger. beach hotels (see opposite thedis- ), although Marine ( right ) andfrommostof thenorthern Breeze also possibletoorganise visitsfromSea point isMashua &Grill.It’s Waterfront Bar four people).Thedeparture andticketing entryfees; minimum including marinereserve 12.30pm, 2.30pmand5pm(Tsh16,000 return, 1.30pm and3.30pm,returning at10.30am, Peninsula, departingat9.30am,11.30am, SlipwayatMsasani the longrains)fromMsasani ment can be rented. sodas are available, andsnorkelling equip- grilledfishBasic meals(aboutTsh6000) and and swimmingsomeshortwalkingtrails. ends) stretch of beach offering snorkelling and relatively quiet(exceptonholidayweek- is themostpopularof theislands,withasmall Bongoyo, about 7kmnorthof DaresSalaam, Bongoyo collected before departure. ally includedinthepriceof excursions, and including visitinganyof the islands.It’susu- adult/child area, entryfee toenter thereserve visited. There’sseldom aTsh6000/4000 per 102 The coastlineabout25kmnorthof Dares A boat goes to the island daily (except during totheislanddaily(exceptduring A boatgoes RUDDRE AAM • otenBahs AROUND DARES Beaches SALAAM ••Northern

(per personwithowntentorunderopen-sided bandas forshade and . The Sns Hotel. Sands 783241; www.seabreezemarine.org) at thelong-standing courses (PADI), canbearranged year-round and Mbudyaislands, anddivingcertification Diving aroundthecoralgardensnear Bongoyo DIVING & SNORKELLING Sights &Activities ning from Kunduchi north. cilities thanthemore attractive coastline run- itoffersjetties, although awiderrange of fa- Jangwani –isbroken byfrequent Beach stone here.yourself of Thesouthernsection coast– Salaam thatyoucanvisitfortheday,orbase toDares for families.Theyare enough close and twowater parks–are agooddestination Kunduchi Junciton (45km) To Bagamoyo NORTHERN BEACHES Junction Africana

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Kunduchi BeachHotel& Jangwani SeaBreeze A2 Bahari BeachHotel...... TRANSPORT SHOPPING SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES Mwenge Dalla-DallaStand.... Mwenge Carvers'Market...... Silver SandsBeachHotel...... Lodge...... Water World...... Kunduchi Wet‘n'Wild...... Kunduchi Ruins...... White SandsHotel...... Resort...... Village Museum...... Sea BreezeMarine...... (see10) Beachcomber...... o

R Sea Breeze Marine Breeze Sea d Pangavini Salaam Map(p86) See GreaterDares 2miles 3km 0 0 nexttoWhite Mbudya Msasani lonelyplanet.com Bay INDIAN OCEAN Bongoyo ( %

Peninsula Msasani 11 10 12 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0754- A3 A3 A4 A4 A3 A2 A3 A3 A3 A3 A4 DAR ES SALAAM 022- 103 % (

This tidy This tidy ) Although in ) 022-264 7215; www This large, some- This large, ) % (

022-264 7620/1; www.hotel ais ais % ( 022-264 7772/3; www.beachcomber ais % (

After being closed for many being closed After many for ) Kunduchi Beach Hotel & Resort Beachcomber White Sands Hotel past their prime. A better-value option – and option A better-value prime. past their years, this former government hotel has re- hotel this former government years, It’s set on the best stretch cently reopened. clean white expanse of – a large beach of what hectic and often full place (with 88 rooms, what hectic and often 28 self-catering apartments and conference between Jangwani facilities) is on the beach The Sea and Beachcomber. Lodge Breeze rondavels in two-storey are rooms well-kept all with TV,lined up along the waterfront, and seaminifridge end views. At the northern newer self-catering the complex are of apart- the beach, overlooking ments – some directly a well- overlooking just behind and the others and a business also a gym lawn. There’s tended buf- has weekend and the restaurant centre, about Tsh16,000/8000). (per adult/child fets laser sailing and wind surfing canWaterskiing, airport Room prices include free be arranged. (with two days’ advance notice) and transfers a nightclub World. There’s entry to Water free Saturday nights. on most Friday and weekend barbecues and buffets (per adult weekend open Saturday about Tsh12,500/6500; /child Sunday lunch). evening and s/d from US$85/100; .co.tz; a facelift, new paint and lightingneed in of and all have adequate the hallways, rooms are full small balconies, though most don’t have also a gym and a views. There’s beach-facing location, the beach the waterside pool. Despite is dirty and unsuitable the hotel in front of for swimming – you’ll need to use the pool, about Sands, White or go to neighbouring the south. 500m to s/d Mon-Friwhitesands.com; US$115/132, Sat & Sun US$85/95, apt from US$140; deluxe popular with overlanders – is camping on the on the – is camping with overlanders popular surrounding lawns. MIDRANGE Jangwani Sea Breeze Lodge .jangwani.org; s/d US$70/85; the Eclipse of hands and is now part changed comfortable are group. The 34 rooms Hotels on spacious, although most are and some are the road and without beach the inland side of is a bougainvillea-draped views. Just opposite with and a restaurant courtyard, beachside formerly German-run establishment has formerly German-run establishment has 265 0050; www.kunduchiresort.com; s/d US$150/174; ais 9am-6pm, h SALAAM •• Northern Beaches DAR ES AROUND 022-265 0428, 0754- , which include the include , which % 022-265 0352; baharibeach This place is set on ( 022-265 0326, 022-265 0332; ) % ( 10am-5.30pm Tue-Sun, women women 10am-5.30pm Tue-Sun,

% a (

022-264 7627, 022-264 7620; adult h % ( This large and crowded place and crowded This large Kunduchi ruins Similar to Kunduchi Wet ’n’ Wild, Wet Similar to Kunduchi

The former government hotel, north of north of hotel, The former government ) Bahari Hotel Beach

Water World a [email protected]; camping per person US$5, d US$65; the beach, all with mosquito nets. Meals cost all with mosquito nets. Meals the beach, from Tsh4500. choice. The camping facilities have hot water hot water camping facilities have The choice. basic but adequate are (usually), and there just in from rooms set around a grassy square a quiet stretch of beach and has seen beach bet- of a quiet stretch budget a respectable days, but remains ter /vehicle Tsh3000/2000, s/d standard Tsh30,000/32,000, s/d s/d standard Tsh30,000/32,000, /vehicle Tsh3000/2000, Tsh45,000/46,000; deluxe Silver Sands Beach Hotel camping per person 850001; www.silversands.netfirms.com; BUDGET BUDGET weekends and holidays, averaging Tsh3000 Tsh3000 and holidays, averaging weekends per person. to Tsh5000 end discounts on accommodation. All hotels end discounts on accommodation. All hotels on for day visitors an entry fee also charge Sleeping & Eating Sleeping & Eating week- about it’s worth asking At all the hotels, White Sands Hotel, and is next door, between Sands Hotel, White Beachcomber hotels. Sands and White only Wed) It’s run by but somewhat smaller and quieter. /child Tsh4000/3000; /child Tsh4000/3000; and a restaurant. Although opens the complex and a restaurant. usually don’t get at 9am, the slides and pools seegoing until closer here, to 10am. To get ). p104 Away ( & Getting There several slides, video arcades, a pools, water go-kart track small playground, an adjoining [email protected]; adult/child Tsh4950/4500; [email protected]; adult/child Tsh4950/4500; women only Tue) Beachnext to Kunduchi & Resort has Hotel WATER WATER PARKS Kunduchi Wet ‘n’ Wild a guide with your hotel – it’s not safe to to – it’s not safe a guide with your hotel have ruins, as there walk on your own to the been muggings. this part of Africa and the Orient. Arrange the Orient. Arrange Africa and this part of centuries, with some well-preservedcenturies, with pillar Chinese found pottery of tombs. Fragments ancient trading links between to testify here remnants of a late-15th-century mosque as a late-15th-century of remnants 18th or 19th from the graves well as Arabic RUINS RUINS the Wild are Wet ’n’ Kunduchi of Just north overgrown Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book Silver Sands, has an attractive beachside set- beachside Sands, has an attractive Silver well ting, although rooms are the 1970s-style DAR ES SALAAM also possible toget adirect ing coupleof kilometres tothehotels. It’s tuk; Tsh1000) (Tsh2000) ortaxi theremain- (Tsh500),to take abicycle taxi Junction (Tsh200), fromwhere you’llneed hotels, take a‘Tegeta’ you’re headingtooneof theJangwani Beach to Mwenge (Tsh200). OnceatMwenge, if inDaresSalaam transportstand New Posta Bahari hotels. Beach and Silver SandsBeach Kunduchi Beach, Rdisthesignposted for turn-off Bagamoyo Rd. About 3kmfurthernorthalongNew signposted fromNewBagamoyo turn-off –are allreachedBeachcomber viathesame Breeze Lodge, White SandsHotelSea and The Jangwani hotels –Jangwani Beach Getting There&Away gym. a the south.Italsohasabusinesscentre and found atthehotels alongJangwani to Beach aquieter ambiencethanthat seeking those tobeagoodoptionfor sorted out,itpromises life andtheoccasionalhiccupswithservices edly mediocre restaurant isinjected withsome derfully firmmattresses, andoncethedecid- to ceilingwindowswithbalconiesandwon- ally quietambience. Alltheroomshave floor rooms,expansive green groundsandagener- with alongrowof attractive beach-facing withnojettiestomartheview–sand, 104 Via publictransport,take a which thistext isbased. Among theZaramo ofTanzania the symbolismofaplaceregeneration. onnewpowers,andaplaceconnected withdeathanddecay(thecompostheap)assumestake medicinal plantsoncompostheapsforseveral daystogainpotency. As theplantswither,they extend intomanyareas. Forexample,Zaramotraditionalhealersoften placenewlyprocured tinuum oflife, thistransition asatransitionratherthantransformation.The ritualsmarking cultural qualitiesoftheirfather. Zaramo children thenameoftheirfather’smother’sclanandare take considered toinheritthe ment women’sbiological contribution.Thus, whilefamilylinesare continuedthroughthemother, nourishers ofthefemale creative power,andasthesourceofculturalqualitiesthatcomple- alineofdaughters, fromwhomallZaramoareing forth descended.Menfitintothepicture as herself hadnocreator andnohusband,butratheremerged later fromthefemale bring- earth, alllife andknowledge.Nyalutanga, thecommonmotherfromwhomspringsforth Nyalutanga andfortheircreation beliefs.woodworking Inthebeginning, accordingtotheZaramo,was The original inhabitantsofthearea aroundDaresSalaamare the Zaramo, knownfortheirskilled THE ZARAMO WORLDVIEW RUDDRE AAM • otenBahs AROUND DARES SALAAM ••SouthernBeaches For more, lookforacopyof The Zaramobelieve ofthenaturalcon- thatalllife arisesfromdeath.Deathisseen aspart dalla-dalla dalla-dalla dalla-dalla Blood, MilkandDeath:BodySymbolsthePowerofRegeneration by Marja-Liisa Swantz with Salome Mjema and byMarja-LiisaSwantzwithSalomeMjema Zenya Wild,on majaji toAfricana from (tuk- from Tsh10,000 toTsh15,000 oneway(Tsh20,000 gings alongthisstretch of road. Don’t walk,asthere mug- have several been (Tsh2500tance Hotel). toSilver SandsBeach fortheremaining totake ataxi you’ll need dis- (near theKunduchi junction;Tsh250), where ontheTegetastay in the city and want some sand in thecity andwantsomesand and surf. an easyandenjoyable daytripifyou’re staying Dar esSalaamforcamping andchilling. It’salso around Mjimwema village, spotto istheclosest The long,white-sand beach south of Kigamboni, Kigamboni lovely, exclusive resorts. by ferry. About 25kmfurthersouthare two Kivukoni Frontandreached inafew minutes just southof Kigamboni,which isopposite –fromthecity. Thebeachin distance begins getaway, farremoved –inambience,ifnot south yougo,andmakes aneasilyaccessible more attractive, tropicalandruralthefurther The coastlinesouthof Dar esSalaamgets Mwenge). via est route is via NamangaandKawe (andnot airport pick-ups.Ifyou’re driving,thefast- your bargaining abilities. Allhotels arrange to Tsh25,000 fromtheairport),dependingon SUHR BEACHES SOUTHERN Beach, Silver Sands and Bahari Beach hotels, Beach Silver SandsandBahari Beach, Kariakoo toTegeta (Tsh250). ForKunduchi Taxis direct fromDaresSalaamcost dalla-dalla lonelyplanet.com untilMtongani DAR ES SALAAM 105 Amani Beach ) , with 10 spa- (Map p101; www.selous , set between the sea ) ais s 0754-410033; www.amanibeach.com; Ras Kutani to Gezaulole leave from the to Gezaulole leave % Jun–mid-Mar; h (Map p101;

The exclusive The exclusive Just south and around the bend is the won- Dalla-dallas of coconut palms and scattered villages to Dar villages and scattered palms coconut of with Kongowe (at the junction es Salaam via and Mtoni-Mtongani. Kilwa Rd), Mbagala extensive flowering gardens. There’s also a There’s flowering gardens. extensive swimming pool and delicious, well- beachside as well as bird- cuisine available, prepared riding walks, horse and beach forest watching, windsurfing opportunities. and of coast, and both resorts are involved in local involved are coast, and both resorts of conservation projects. .com; per person all inclusive US$305, ste per person full board US$390; and bungalows made from natural materials, On a rise away verandas. all with beach-facing upmar- four more are from the main lodge pool. with their own plunge each suites, ket walks, horse riding, forest Bird-watching, can canoeing in the lagoon and snorkelling be arranged. derfully peaceful and aptly named Hotel s/d full board US$220/380; to see if it’s started up again. Alternatively, to see if it’s started up again. Alternatively, may be able ), which p47 contact Afriroots ( a visit. to help arrange when full. dock Kigamboni ferry Ras Kutani This secluded 30km south of cape, about tranquil surroundings, Dar es Salaam, offers but no div- snorkelling sports (there’s water walking and the chance beach ing), fishing, without for a tropical island–style getaway two are There the mainland. actually leaving places to stay, both accessed via the same sign- advance and both requiring turn-off, posted for charter bookings. Nearby is an airstrip flights. Nesting sea section this turtles favour Gezaulole Gezaulole the Kigamboni on 13km south of About Gezaulole the was previously village beach, programme focus- a cultural tourism of site text, Zaramoing on local (see life the boxed to nearby Sinda ) and on excursions opposite island. The starting point – Akida’s Garden – closed, affiliated as is the Kim is currently Beach & Campsite on a palm-lined stretch sand asking around nearby, but it’s worth of and a small lagoon, has nine lovely, spacious and a small lagoon, has nine lovely, cious and well-spaced cottages setcious and well-spaced cottages on a low by and backed the beach above cliff directly 0754- % 022-282 0222; www 022-282 Beaches SALAAM •• Southern DAR ES AROUND on the beach. on % (Map p101;

bandas

heading south and ask the (Map p101; A good place with straight- A good place dalla-dalla with mosquito nets but no windows, With your own car, an alternative route back route With your own car, an alternative The midrange South Beach The midrange Resort (Map Kipepeo Beach & Village just south of Kipepeo, and follow it past standsjust south of to the city is to turn right along the tarmac road charge about Tsh3000 to Kipepeo Beach & about Tsh3000 charge Beach Resort. and Sunrise Village catch a catch from Kigamboni to drop you off. Taxis driver runs throughout the day between the eastern Kivukoni Front in Dar es Salaam and end of the other side, Once on Kigamboni village. of local life – the Kigamboni (Magogoni) ferry ferry – the Kigamboni (Magogoni) local life of minutes) five Tsh100/800, (per person/vehicle GETTING THERE & AWAY GETTING & AWAY THERE in itself a good excursion – it’s a slice Making children and shaded and shaded children p101), just south of Kipepeo Beach p101), just south of & Village, for is set with a pool, play area to open shortly, use of the beach and facilities (the price can be beach the use of Kipepeo at the bar or restaurant). redeemed dock. ferry the is 8km south of rates. There’s a large beachside restaurant- beachside a large There’s rates. popular, especially on The place is very bar. for day fee a Tsh3000 when there’s weekends, near the beach and also fenced in – a shadeless in – a shadeless and also fenced near the beach is included in cottage Breakfast camping area. bandas the compound, also and – on the other side of the nearest bathroom, are makeshift thatched thatched makeshift bathroom, are the nearest from a long stretch of beach, all with balconies all with balconies beach, of from a long stretch and mosquito nets. Closer but to the water, and a long way from enclosed behind a fence s/d/tr beach banda US$13/20/28, s/d/tr cottage US$50/65/95) s/d/tr beach banda US$13/20/28, Raised 300m back lined up about cottages 276178; www.kipepeovillage.com; US$8, camping per person Tsh5000, of which Tsh3000 can be redeemed can be redeemed Tsh3000 which of Tsh5000, the restaurant. at mattress on the sand and small windows, on the sand small windows, and mattress close There’s by. showers and hot-water day use of on weekends fee a per person in two-storey brick rondavels several hun- brick rondavels in two-storey the main hotel back. Adjoining metres dred spot on the sand is a in an uncluttered area – all with a double canvas tents clean row of a long, good stretch of beach just up from just up from beach of stretch a long, good rooms ‘executive’ nicer air-con Kipepeo, plus forward standard and ‘sea rooms clus- view’ on area in the central hotel together tered .sunrisebeachresort.co.tz; ‘safari’ camping US$4, 2-person US$50/60, r US$25, s/d with sea view tent US$12, standard US$65/75) s/d executive SLEEPING & EATING & EATING SLEEPING Sunrise Beach Resort Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book DAR ES SALAAM the above - ‘Do the right thingwithourcontent.’ the above-‘Doright thetermsandconditionsonoursiteforalongerwayofsaying youknow,orresell it.See everyone site,massemailitto only. Inotherwords,pleasedon’tuploadthischaptertoapeer-to-peer Inreturn, wethinkit’sfairtoaskyouuseitforpersonal,non-commercialpurposes restricted. © LonelyPlanetPublications. iteasierforyoutouse,accessthischapterisnotdigitally Tomake 106 © LonelyPlanetPublications www.lonelyplanet.com