APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 1

JANUARY 2020, VOL.- XIX / ISSUE No. 01

Editor & Publisher ARVIND KUMAR from the editor... Associate Editor B.P. MISHRA Asst. Editor The Indian Government has withdrawn Merchandise Exports from India SWATI SHARMA Editorial Adviser Scheme (MEIS) retrospectively from March 7, 2019 for HSN code chapters 61, RAJESH CHHABARA 62 and 63. Claims already paid to the exporters under MEIS will be suitably Sub Editor - Creative JOHN EDWARDS adjusted against Rebate of State and Central Taxes and Levies (RoSCTL) and Art Director recoveries will be made wherever due. SANJAY BHANDARI Sr. Correspondent As per the recommendations of the Expenditure Finance Committee, a special ASHWANI KUMAR one-time additional ad-hoc incentive of upto 1 percent of FoB value will be Correspondent DEEPTI provided for exports of apparel and made-ups to offset the difference between ANISH KUMAR RoSCTL and RoSL + MEIS at the rate of 4 percent, from March 7, 2019 to Creative - Head SREEKUMAR. M December 31, 2019. Sr. Layout Artist JATIN JAIN The Expenditure Finance Committee has recommended that the additional Sr. Designer RAJEEV KUMAR incentive under the scheme would be as per claims from the exporters Production Manager and the total adhoc incentive would not exceed `600 cr for the period MUKESH POKHRIYAL mentioned above. e-Magazine SUMER SINGH The Department of Commerce will take steps for the validation of claims by Business Promotion ANITA RAI (DELHI) the Directorate General of Foreign Trade (DGFT) and Department of Revenue N. SABARI SELVAM (TIRUPUR) PAVITHRA R. (TIRUPUR) (DoR) for correct disbursal of benefits. The ad-hoc incentive would be Circulation implemented in the form of scrips for which an outlay would need to be POOJA (DELHI) RAJESWARI (TIRUPUR) provided by DoR. Accounts Head ANJU CHAUHAN TONDAK The industry had been given ROSCTL and MEIS simultaneously as each scheme Head Office had a specific purpose - MEIS for infrastructural/logistics cost disadvantage Plot No. 31, 1st Floor, Sai Enclave, Sector -23, Dwarka, New Delhi - 110077, INDIA and RoSL/ ROSCTL for embedded State and Central duties and taxes, not Tel.: 093107 66051 [email protected], [email protected] refunded through GST. The industry has already taken these benefits of RoSCTL [email protected] and MEIS into account in costing with the buyers as also in their tax planning. Regd. Office C-75, DGS Housing Society, Plot No. 6, Hence, withdrawal of any of these benefits will have an immense effect on Sector-22, Dwarka, New Delhi-110077 the working capital of the exporters. Regional Offices Tirupur No. 23, Ground Floor, Indra Nagar, Avinashi Road, Tirupur - 641 603 Tel.: 0421-4325579, 95439 55888, 88700 06778 [email protected] Kolkata Tapan Kumar - 99581 99872 Arvind Kumar, Editor & Publisher Bangalore B.P. Mishra - 93414 44727, 080-2343 4446 Overseas Office Apparel Views Bangladesh Limited House No. 33, Road No. 2/E Priyanka Housing, Turag City, Mirpur 1 Dhaka 1216, Bangladesh Tel: +880 1775591327, 1679627362, 1305789303 E-mail: [email protected] / [email protected]

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Owner, Publisher, Printer & Editor - Arvind Kumar, printed and processed by him at Sterling Publisher Pvt. Ltd., A-59, Okhla Industrial Area, Phase - II, New Delhi - 110 020, published from C - 75, DGS Housing Society, Plot No. 6, Sector - 22, Dwarka, New Delhi - 110 077. Reproduction of any of the content from this issue is prohibited without explicit written permission of the publisher.

APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 3 Contents

40 58 70

Globe trotter 4

Domestic update 18

Lüscher’s new JetScreen DX Round makes screen making process greener 30

SU.RE hosts 1st B2B workshop on Sustainable Fashion 31

Hohenstein advances textile sustainability with microfiber analysis 32

With BREXIT to take time Start FTA negotiations with EU 34

TEXPROCIL celebrates members achievements at Annual Awards 38

ITME Society brings together women entrepreneurs from 4 African nations 39 54 Apparel exports in FY 2019 decreases but import increases 40 Pitti Immagine Bimbo 44

Pitti Immagine Uomo 54

GTE New Delhi Begins 2020 on a high note for industry 58

Swiss Textile Machinery innovating to meet the challenges 66

GMMSA Expo India 2020 68

SITME Surat Becomes most successful trade show in history of Surat 70

Forthcoming trade events 80

4 APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 5 Cotton cultivation to rise in Azerbaijan he area allocated for cotton cultivation in Azerbaijan in 2020 is 105,000 Thectares, the country’s Agriculture Minister Inam Karimov said recently. According to the new subsidy mechanism, which will come into force in 2020, $129 will be issued to farmers for every hectare of sown cotton, and $58 for each tonne of harvested cotton, the Minister said. Issuing subsidies through the Electronic Agriculture System will accelerate the process and improve the quality of service; quoted him as saying. In 2019, some 294,000 tonne of cotton were harvested in Azerbaijan. Azerbaijan entered a new stage of cotton breeding in early 2017 with the approval of the State Program for 2017-2022, which that aimed at strengthening measures directed at developing this sector. As a result, raw cotton production in 2022 is expected to reach 500,000 tonne. Cotton production ensures main income for over 200,000 people in Azerbaijan, including farmers, seasonal workers, and specialists working in the cotton fields such as agronomists, mechanics, drivers and others. Some 23 cotton plants, Trade surplus reaches record seven yarn factories and three cotton oil companies operate in the country high in Vietnam Cambodia grants export rights to ietnam’s trade surplus reached a record high of $9.9 bn in 2019, according Vto the General Statistics Office’s monthly report, which revealed last year’s 78 factories surplus was also the highest seen in the past four years, after $1.6 bn in 2016, ambodia’s Ministry of Commerce recently granted export rights under the $1.9 bn in 2017 and $6.8 bn in 2018. The nation’s trade turnover surpassed the Cpreferential trading system to 78 garment, footwear and bag factories in the $500-bn mark for first time in 2019, witnessing the stronger growth of the first 11 months of last year, according to its annual report. The Ministry registered Vietnamese-invested sector compared to foreign invested sector, according to 51 such facilities from January to November, a rise of 24 percent over 41 in the the report. During the year, overseas shipments earned the country $263.45 bn, same period in 2018, the report said. up 8.1 percent year-on-year and higher than the target set by the National Assembly and the government of 7-8 percent. The domestic sector contributed Twenty seven bag factories were registered, an increase of 170 percent year-on- $82.1 bn, or 31.2 percent, of total exports, up 18 percent year-on-year, while the year on the 10 registered in the same period the previous year, while 138 exporters foreign-invested sector made up $181 bn, up 4.2 percent year-on-year or 68.8 and other factories registered, a 21 percent rise, according to a report. According percent of the total (down 2.5 percentage points year-on-year). to Garment Manufacturers Association in Cambodia (GMAC) Secretary General Kaing Monika, Cambodia has seen positive effects from the US-China trade Six groups of goods posted dispute, which has prompted a surge in garment and footwear registrations. an export value of more than $10 bn, including “The growth of garment factories last year was boosted mainly by the trend of mobile phones and spare finding alternative sources to China, and recently by the US-China trade war. The parts with $51.8 bn, up 5.3 growth in travel goods factories was strengthened by the eligibility of the products percent; computers and for the US’ Generalised System of Preferences,” Monika said. Cambodia’s exports components ($35.6 bn or to international markets reached more than $10 bn in the first 10 months of last 20.4 percent); textiles and year, mainly from the garment, textile, footwear and travel products sectors, garments ($32.6 bn or 7 according to the report. Garment exports were worth $6.4 bn, textiles $40 mn percent); machinery, and footwear $905 mn equipment and parts ($18.3 bn or 12 percent), footwear ($18.3 bn or 13 percent) and wood and wooden goods ($10.5 bn or 18 percent)., according to a report. The US retained Nigerian Govt. urged to create its position as the largest export market of the country with a turnover of $60.7 bn in 2019, marking a yearly hike of 28 percent. It was followed by the European Textile Ministry Union ($41.7 bn), China ($41.5 bn), ASEAN ($25.3 bn), Japan ($20.3 bn) and he National Union of South Korea ($19.8 bn). T Textiles, Garment and From January to December, the country’s import revenue experienced a modest Tailoring Workers of Nigeria yearly increase of 7 percent, reaching $253.51 bn. It added imports mainly (NUTGTWN) recently urged the served export production at foreign-invested enterprises which accounted for government to create a Textiles 91.2 percent of the total import value. Goods categories reported a significant Ministry to address the import turnover such as raw materials with $119.5 bn or 47 percent of the total industry’s woes and revive the value; machinery, means of transport and parts ($111.7 bn, or 44 percent) and sector. Textiles workers also consumer goods ($22.3 bn or 9 percent). said they would demand from the government a directive for strong patronage for fabrics manufactured by domestic China continued to be the largest import market of Vietnam with a total companies this year. In a New Year message, Union National President John Adaji turnover of $75.3 bn, signifying an increase of 15 percent. That meant Vietnam and Secretary Issa Aremu said the creation of the Ministry should be taken up as a had to face an all-time high trade deficit of $33.8 bn with its neighbour. priority. “The objective of the proposed Ministry would be to regularly upgrade the Meanwhile, Vietnam’s trade deficit with other markets such as ASEAN and textile value chains, improve labour productivity, maximise value addition and South Korea experienced a slight decrease of 6 percent at $27.5 bn and 3.2 formulate strategies and programme to enable the textile sector meet the challenges percent at $6.8 bn, respectively to attain global competitiveness,” report quoted as saying

6 APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 By 2024 Bangladesh to be Garment makers conducting 30th largest economy minimum wage survey in Myanmar angladesh’s economy will outshine that of Malaysia, Hong Kong and Singapore yanmar’s garment manufacturers will conduct a survey to find Bwith its presence as the 30th largest economy in the world by 2024, according Mout if workers are justified in asking for a steep hike in the daily to a new report by the Centre for Economics and Business Research (CEBR), which minimum wage, according to the Myanmar Garment Manufacturers said the country’s economy will further climb from the 40th place in 2020 to 26th Association. A survey on the rising costs of garment factories was and 25th position respectively by 2029 and 2034. distributed among businesses during an association meeting in capital Yangon recently. The report called ‘World Economic League Table 2020’ Association Chairman U Myint Soe offers forecasts for 193 countries said the survey will be conducted to 2034. With purchasing power in February and submitted to the parity (PPP)-adjusted gross National Minimum Wage domestic product (GDP) per Committee at its next meeting, capita of $5,028 in 2019, according to some reports. The Bangladesh is a lower middle- survey will gather general income country, CEBR said. information about the factories and businesses, their expenses, labour Bangladesh’s economy performed well last year, recording a 7.8 percent growth. force, export market, employee The country recorded 7.9 percent growth in 2018. The country’s population increased salaries and benefits. at a rate of 1 percent per year since 2014. This has meant that per capita incomes have grown considerably in recent years. The government debt as a share of GDP Under the law, the government must review the minimum wage every two rose to 34.6 percent last year. This is up from 34 percent in 2018. years. A meeting of representatives of government, workers and employers will meet in May to begin discussing the minimum wage. The Yangon Region Despite this increase, the public sector finances remain in good shape. The Government has begun collecting data on the cost of living in the country’s relatively low debt burden has provided the government with the fiscal headroom economic capital to determine its own minimum wage proposal. to operate a budget deficit of 4.8 percent in 2019. The annual rate of GDP growth is forecast to slow to an average of 7.3 percent between 2020 and 2025, according U Khin Maung Thwin, Secretary of the Minimum Wage Committee and to the report. CEBR forecasts that the economy will remain at this impressive Regional Officer of Department of Labour, said the data collection started rate over the subsequent nine years. China is predicted to become the world’s recently and will continue for 18 days. The association said there are over largest economy in 2033, overtaking the United States with growth boosted by 533 garment factories in the country, of which 90 percent are exporters. technology. China’s population is forecast to peak at 1,416.4 mn in 2028 before Myanmar’s garment exports totalled $4.8 bn in 2018-2019, the Ministry of falling to about 1 bn by 2100 Commerce said

APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 7 GOTS certifies 40 BGMEA protests against misleading report more companies in about industry 2019 in US recent report citing the “largest crackdown” on Aworkers’ rights in Bangladesh has yet again misled readers about working conditions in Bangladesh’s RMG sector. The report cites misleading figures from International Labour Rights Forum claiming that 11,600 workers were dismissed without legal justification. Earlier BGMEA had sought list from IBC upon which IBC had provided a list without details lacking names and ID numbers of workers. The data also contradicts detailed reports and statistics prepared by the BGMEA, which says the number of terminated workers remain well below are part of the BGMEA were called in on August 29 4,000 in an industry involving 4.4 mn workers - less and September 1 of 2019 for resolving the cases filed than 0.1 percent of the total workforce. against the workers. Regarding the cases filed against workers for Detailed discussions revealed that 37 out of 79 orty companies were certified to the Global protesting the minimum wage back in 2018, the factories were involved in dismissing workers, of FOrganic Textile Standard (GOTS) in 2019, taking BGMEA had prior discussions with unions that which 15 factories dismissed 2,298 workers without the number of companies certified to GOTS in the claimed, without providing names or ID cards, that filing any cases and 22 terminated 1,664 jobs and US to 113. GOTS covers processing, manufacturing, 12,000 workers had been terminated from 104 filed cases. In total, 30 cases were filed - 27 of them packaging, labeling, trading and distribution of factories. The BGMEA has thoroughly investigated related to minimum wage protests. Till now, 10 cases textiles made from at least 70 percent certified the claims and found that 91 factories were involved have been withdrawn and the remaining 17 are in the organic fibres, ensuring stringent ecological and in dismissing workers and of them 12 were not process of being withdrawn social criteria. Consumers demand third-party members of the association. The 79 factories that validation from companies on ecological and social claims. GOTS certification ensures compliance with stringent ecological and social EBA withdraw could result in slowdown in Cambodia criteria, and with each of the seventeen United later next year, which could have a large negative Nation Sustainable Development Goals, to impact on economic activity." achieve sustainable development. The EU started in February an 18-month process that Products may only be sold with a GOTS label if the could lead to the temporary suspension of Cambodia's entire supply-chain is certified and the necessary duty-free trading access to the EU market under the scope and transaction certificates have been EBA scheme due to concerns over human rights and obtained to prove certification. In order to guarantee labour rights. A final decision on whether to withdraw consistent product assurance of GOTS certified the trade privilege from Cambodia or not will be made textiles, an independent on-site inspection, in February next year. according to the GOTS standard, is carried out annually by GOTS approved certifiers. ambodia's economic growth is expected to slow The country's export to EU was valued at $5.86 bn in Cdown in 2020 if the European Union (EU) 2018, about 95 percent of which entered the EU duty- GOTS is the stringent voluntary global standard for withdraws the everything but Arm (EBA) trade free taking advantage of EBA preferences, EU data the entire post-harvest processing (including scheme, the International Monetary Fund (IMF) said showed. Garment and footwear products accounted spinning, knitting, weaving, dyeing and recently. Its economy is projected to grow by 6.8 for around three quarters of EU imports from the manufacturing) of apparel and home textiles made percent next year, slightly lower than 7 percent this country. The garment and footwear industry is with certified organic fibre (such as organic cotton year, driven by continued export growth and strong Cambodia's biggest export sector, employing about and organic wool), and includes both environmental construction activity, it said. "Cambodia's economic 750,000 people in some 1,100 factories. If stripped, and social criteria. Key provisions include a ban on outlook is subject to significant downside risks," tariffs on garment, footwear, and bicycle products to the use of genetically modified organisms (GMOs), IMF said in a report. "The on-going EBA review by the EU market will increase by 12 percent, 16 percent highly hazardous chemicals (such as azo dyes and the EU, Cambodia's primary export partner, could and 10 percent respectively, according to a recent formaldehyde), and child labour, while requiring lead to a suspension of preferential trade access World Bank report strong social compliance management systems and strict waste water treatment practices. GOTS was developed by leading international standard setters - Organic Trade Association (US), Japan Bangla PM urges industry to diversify products Organic Cotton Association, International angladesh Prime Minister Sheikh Hasina recently Association Natural Textile Industry (Germany), and urged entrepreneurs to produce diversified textile Soil Association (UK) to define globally-recognised B products to keep pace with competition in global requirements that ensure the organic status of markets. Inaugurating the National Textile Day 2019 textiles, from field to finished product. and Multipurpose Textile Fair in Dhaka recently, she The companies certified include Roshan Trading, called on the public and private sectors to work King-Mesa Gin, Mesa Farmers Cooperative, West together to increase the demand of Bangladeshi Gin, Avocado Green Brands, Brentwood Home, products overseas. Chevaldi, Diamond Wipes International, Fibertex Though Bangladesh holds the second position in the demands in the world market,” she said. The Prime Nonwovens, A1 Home Collections, Cole and Cleo, world in textile exports, it has only 6.4 percent share Minister handed over awards to nine organisations Conscious Step, Everlane, Fair Seas Supply in the world market, she said.“We have to formulate and business enterprises for their contributions to Company, and Green Cotton Group USA short, medium and long-term plans creating more the development of the textile sector

8 APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 9 EU Commission concerned over ability to Indonesian Textile Mills roll out Brexit in timeline are set to purchase an uropean Commission President Ursula von der Leyen additional US Cotton E is concerned over the ability to roll out Brexit in the timeline sought by Prime Minister Boris Johnson. Stating that it is not only a question of negotiating an agreement, she was apprehensive whether all negotiations are possible in such a short time. “I am very worried about the short time available,” she said. She raised her concerns over the length of the timeline. Following a landslide general election victory by Johnson’s Conservative party on December 12, the United Kingdom is due to leave the European Union (EU) on January 31. After its exit from the EU, a transitional period will exist until the end of 2020 to allow time for negotiation on future trade links. Negotiations are due to begin in February. Voicing her concerns, she also raised the possibility of a mid-year review of the transition period with the potential for an he Cotton Council International (CCI) has announced that extension if one were required, according to reports. Under the EU-UK withdrawal agreement, there Indonesian textile mills are set to purchase an additional is room for the United Kingdom to seek an extension on the transition period of up to two years. Prime T 194,000 US cotton bales, worth more than $65 mn, thanks to Minister Boris Johnson, however, is adamant that there will be no extension. The Withdrawal Bill is CCI’s 2019 Special Trade Mission (STM) from Indonesia to currently working its way through a number of stages in the UK parliament the US, sponsored by FMD funding. CCI is the export promotion arm of the National Cotton Council of America (NCC). Eighteen cotton buyers from Indonesian textile mills, as well as two Agreement reached to transition members of the Indonesian Textile Association, attended Bangladesh Accord the STM to learn more about the benefits of US cotton. Indonesia is the fifth largest cotton fibre-importing country, he BGMEA and the Accord on Fire and Building Safety in Bangladesh have officially signed a and mills in Indonesia were expected to import a total of 3.1 Ttransition agreement to finalise the creation of the new RMG sustainability council (RSC), mn bales in 2018/19. which aims to oversee the safety of garment workers in the country. According to the newly signed Memorandum of Understanding (MoU) between the two parties, all major functions of the The companies that participated in the STM represented some Accord office in Bangladesh will transition into the new RSC before 31st May 2020. of the largest textile mills in Indonesia. Their companies consume around 2.1 mn bales, representing roughly two-thirds The move comes at the same time as more than 80 garment factories in Bangladesh were of total cotton consumption in Indonesia in 2018/19. Prior to stripped of their rights to import duty-free fabrics and raw materials due to safety breaches. The the STM, US market share with these mills was estimated at newly signed MoU between the BGMEA and the outgoing Accord to transition all safety work to 40 percent, according to CCI. The STM visited six cities the not-for-profit RSC by the end of May marks a new milestone for the Bangladesh textile and throughout the Cotton Belt in July 2019. The STM provided garment sector, which is still troubled by concerns around worker safety. participants with a better understanding of the many elements that make up the seven segments of the US cotton industry. The Bangladesh Garment These meetings assisted in educating the foreign trade, as Manufacturers and Export well as encouraged business relationships with the intention Association (BGMEA) calls the of increasing US cotton exports in the future. new RSC an “unprecedented national supply chain initiative, One of the purposes of the STM is to provide participants with uniting industry, brands and a better understanding of the US cotton industry, and 87 percent trade unions to ensure a of the participants stated their main objective in participating sustainable solution to carry was to learn more about US cotton. To meet that goal, prior to forward the significant the tour, CCI asked the participants which topics they would accomplishments made on most like to have addressed by the US cotton industry. CCI workplace safety in Bangladesh.” It will operate within the regulatory framework of the laws of also arranged a pre- and post-survey to capture the group’s Bangladesh and support the regulatory functions of the Government, retaining all health and safety change in knowledge and purchase intent. inspections and remediation, safety training and complaints currently carried out by the Accord. The Indonesian participants were concerned about US cotton The BGMEA claims the agreement means that existing decisions, policies and protocols developed quality and the steps being taken to improve contamination by the Accord will be carried over to the new RSC with all “transparency features of the Accord” from bale packaging. They were interested in sustainability being maintained. This includes full public disclosure of inspection results and remediation and how US cotton producers were implementing sustainable activities. Additionally, factories currently covered by the Accord shall be carried over to the RSC practices on their farms. They were also looking to learn about retaining their remediation status and any outstanding requirements with all operations and staff trends and innovations in cotton products that would help located at the Accord Office in Dhaka transferred to the RSC.“The RSC will appoint a Chief Safety them in their business with brands and retailers. Officer, retaining the same independence, autonomy, authorities, and reporting requirements practiced by the Accord,” says the BGMEA. Overall, 100 percent of the participants stated they were able to meet their objective of learning more about the U.S. cotton However, for now, the BGMEA still remains at loggerheads with Nirapon – which replaced the industry by participating in the STM, and 100 percent stated Alliance for Bangladesh Worker Safety – over the formation of the RSC, which BGMEA wants it they learned a lot about US cotton during the STM. Furthermore, to back. But supported by big US apparel brands, Nirapon intends to continue its own work with all of the participants were satisfied with the STM and all third-party service providers in Bangladesh to promote worker safety management, training and were likely to recommend it to a colleague. A second goal of worker helpline programs for all its member factories. The wrangle between these two the STM was to encourage business relationships with the organisations comes at a time when the BGMEA itself is also implementing new, drastic measures intention of increasing future US cotton exports. Around 94 to ensure compliance on safety by withdrawing export licenses to companies that transgress. A percent of the participants stated that their participation in situation itself which backs up Nirapon’s claims that its own existence remains vital to protect the STM provided them opportunities to develop new business the safety of workers in Bangladesh that make the clothes of its member companies such as relationships and contacts, and 82 percent believe they will Walmart, Kohls and VF Corporation purchase more US cotton in the future

10 APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 11 China signed deal for raises hope for the cotton sector nited States-China trade deal (Phase-1) signed Lynn county farmer in the High Plains for 39 years Urecently, raises hopes for the cotton sector. On stated, “We have to keep striving to provide superior the day when the United States-China trade deal quality as the world needs quality cotton.” (Phase 1) was signed in Washington, DC, cotton Regional and international trade pacts such as the growers gathered for the Plains Cotton Growers’ Board United States-Mexico-Canada agreement (USMCA), meeting, to talk about 2019 crop, trade situation and which is expected to be passed by the U.S. Senate the cotton market. this week, provides certainty for the existing marketing Reece Langley, Vice President Operations at condition, stated Langley. Memphis-based National Cotton Council presented “The recently signed Phase 1 of the China trade information about the trade situation. This scribe had worth about $01 bn. The sales of agricultural products agreement has the potential to provide resumption an opportunity to talk with Langley on the sidelines of in that year to China were about $24 bn. The trade deal of access to an important market for Texas cotton the meeting about the trade deal signed and its impact is expected to enhance this value by $16 bn. producers. Confirmation of that will be actual sales on the United States’ cotton sector. to China, and we hope that comes to fruition soon,” Langley hoped that the U.S. cotton’s market share in With the signing of the deal, China’s import of United stated Steve Verett, Chief Executive Officer of China would at least reach the pre-tariff era. The tariff States’ agricultural products would reach at least $ 40 Lubbock-based Plains Cotton Growers, Inc. The regime has brought down the share to about 18 bn per year. Potential is there for $50 bn/year. Langley mechanism by which China is going to enable this percent last year. stated that commodity wise itemization is not known trade deal to fruition will be interesting watch--- yet. United States’ cotton sales to China during the Producing and delivering high quality and clean cotton may be by providing tariff exemption to imports to 2017 calendar year were 2.5 mn bales (480 lbs. each) will help to regain the market share. Dahlen Hancock, achieve the target

All Dye-Sub Ink now transferrable First World Congress on Textile to cotton Coating announced raphics One has announced the release of its GO Fuze Dye-Sub to Cotton he organisers of the successful and long-running conference Gliquid solution for use with virtually all brands of dye-sub inks. This extraordinary Tseries Textile Coating and Laminating (TCL) have announced its expansion new capability uses new patent-pending polymer chemistry, which allows standard and refocus as the World Congress on Textile Coating (WCTC20). The event dye-sub ink to fuze to cotton fabric. Any dye-sub printer will be capable of imaging will debut in Berlin on 19-20 November 2020.In the modern textile industry, transfers for use with both polyester and cotton using the GO Fuze liquid. coating, surface modification and laminating are the key means to tailor textiles and nonwovens to create functional products for specific, often high- GO Fuze liquid works through an easy pre-treat process using either a hand spray performance, applications. This expanded conference will take the necessary method or GO Fuze Pre Treater machine. Once the garment or fabric is sprayed and wide perspective on all these processes. Unlike other events, it will not be an dried, dye-sub inks can then be transferred in a normal dye-sub workflow utilizing academic research-based meeting, but a practical, industry-focused standard dye-sub paper with a heat press. In addition to transfers, users can also print conference, and participants will be encouraged to share real-world problems directly to the fabric. Of course, the ink must be cured by heat for the fabric to be usable. with the assembled experts and their fellow attendees in the dedicated Dan Barefoot, Vice President of Graphics One indicated, “Our GO Fuze solution discussion forums. With major speakers from around the world looking at was developed in conjunction with our FabriMate dye-sub-to-cotton solution. Our novel applications and processes of textile coating from a practical industry R&D Team discovered that the GO Fuze liquid would work with virtually any dye- perspective, WCTC promises to be dynamic and lively, attracting delegates sub ink brands, including both our GO SubliMate and GO FabriMate ink families.” from companies on every continent Barefoot further stated, “We feel having the ability to use any dye-sub ink transfers with both cotton and polyester presents tremendous new opportunities for the Zilingo helps Cambodian textile dye-sub market. The process is simple and fits into a standard workflow. We believe every dye-sub provider will want to incorporate this innovative new units for new form of digitization technology into their product offering.” GO Fuze liquid will be available in the ingapore-headquartered global Spring of 2020 through the extensive Graphics One distribution network. GO Fuze fashion-technology platform will be exhibited in the Graphics One booth (No. 536) during the ISS Show in Long S Zilingo recently collaborated with Beach, California, held from January 16-18, 2020 the Garment Manufacturers Asso- ciation in Cambodia (GMAC) and the Cambodia Garment Training In- stitute (CGTI) to bring a new form of digitisation to the country’s gar- ment factories by increasing effi- ciency and reducing defects through its proprietary production software. The software allows factories to use real-time production data to produce action- able performance reports that will help factories improve efficiency and pro- ductivity, according to a report. The software increases a factory’s production efficiency by 10 to 12 percent, by giving management real-time access to data on a smartphone, laptop or tablet, said Sosakol Yin, Business Development Manager of Zilingo. He said that the software will assist in removing pen and paper from the production line as the software automatically records production data and generates actionable reports. Yin added that it also allows for quality control and production staff to identify garment defects and other faults. GMAC Operations Manager Ly Tek Heng said the association has invited Zilingo to share its new technology system in garment, shoe and bag factories

12 APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 Covestro re-certified as a Responsible Tukatech’s 25th Anniversary Care Company by ICC gift to fashion industry esponsible Care (RC) is a Rglobal voluntary initiative of chemical industry to excel and continually improve health, safety and environ- mental performance. Respon- sible Care certification was first initiated in 1984, and is adopted today by 60 national and regional associations in more than 60 economies around the world. In India, Indian Chemical Council (ICC), a member ukatech kicks off their 25th anniversary celebration with a gift of International Council of Chemical Associations (ICCA), coordinates and promotes Respon- Tto their partners and customers: TUKA-APM (Automatic sible Care. ICC provides the guidance to the companies and monitors its implementation. Pattern Making) added to their TUKAcad system at no charge. Responsible Care (RC) is a chemical industry initiative, which calls on companies to demon- TUKA-APM is the fashion industry’s first fully automated pattern strate their commitment to improve all aspects of performance, which relate to the protection making and grading software, connected to the TUKAcad pattern of health, safety and environment. making and grading solution. With TUKA-APM, a person of any skill level can complete a graded pattern in seconds. Simply fill Responsible Care is a commitment of the chemical industry for a world-class performance for out the measurement chart to generate a 2D CAD pattern including safe, responsible management of chemicals throughout their entire life. It addresses community grading. This pattern is then pushed to TUKAmark to create a concerns about chemicals and its impact on people and environment during processing, costing marker. transportation and use. “Since 1995 we have stayed focused on simplifying apparel product Covestro has stringent compliance policies that everyone in the organisation adheres to. development processes. There is no better way to start 2020 than Plants and processes are subject to continuous review and are kept up-to-date with state-of- with a ‘thank you’ to our loyal customers who have supported us the-art technology. Covestro India signed Responsible Care global charter in March 2015 and and are the reason we’ve been profitable over the last 25 years.” became Responsible Care Company in September 2016. However, each logo holder company Listen to Ram Sareen explain why he decided to gift TUKA-APM to has to undergo surveillance audit every 3 years for continuation of Responsible Care logo and his current customers. TUKA-APM is available by cloud subscription certificate. Therefore, in September 2019 expert panel from ICC visited Covestro sites and had via TUKAweb. Existing TUKAcad users with a dongle key will be detailed discussion on six codes of management practices and guiding principles. On able to switch to a cloud license in order to add TUKA-APM to their September 27th 2019, ICC presented the Responsible Care Logo memento to Covestro India in TUKAcad software. New TUKAcad users can begin a TUKAcad their annual general meeting subscription via TUKAweb with TUKA-APM added on

APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 13 GEAR for Sports expands direct-to-garment print capabilities with Kornit

ornit Digital, a worldwide market leader in digital textile printing technology, facility,” said Cindy Olivarez, Director of Kannounced that GEAR for Sports, a division of Hanes brands Inc., has installed Operations—Customs and Logistics with GEAR for a Kornit Avalanche Poly Pro system to supplement previously-implemented Sports. “Digital printing is an ever-growing business Kornit Digital direct-to-garment (DTG) print systems within the company’s and is key to our business initiatives. Having the Lenexa, Kansas production facility. ability to print polyester T-shirts one unit at a time will allow us to gain consumers who want poly rich GEAR for Sports sells its products under some of the most powerful brands in sportswear, garments, and Kornit’s Poly Pro system offers the including Under Armour®, Champion®, Alternative Apparel, Hanes, and Gear for best possible quality to allow GEAR for Sports to Sports®. This compelling portfolio of brands allows GEAR to provide a longstanding expand our direct-to-garment business.” history of quality graphics and innovative apparel design, giving customers a single resource for all their sportswear needs. Installing Avalanche Poly Pro, which integrates Continuous investment in digital DTG systems is anticipated as the custom imprint Kornit’s proprietary NeoPoly print technology with the brand’s production strategy, will business grows. “When we developed our NeoPoly technology, the only digital enable them to custom-print poly rich garments on demand. direct-to-garment print technology made specifically for polyester and poly-blend materials, it was very much with brands like GEAR for Sports in mind,” said Omer GEAR for Sports has implemented three Kornit DTG print systems in the last two Kulka, Kornit’s EVP of Marketing and Product Strategy. “Demand for sportswear years. Having established a process for delivering imprinted cotton garments on and athleisure apparel has exploded, and digital empowers suppliers to customize, demand, and further answering the voice of its customers, the brand decided to personalize, and fulfill any quantity on a moment’s notice, profitably, without expand these capabilities to polyester and poly-blend pieces. limitations of design or colour, and with retail quality and durability that is worthy “We’ve been inviting key customers to our facility to demonstrate what the Poly of such a brand’s established reputation” Pro equipment can do, as we expand our digital printing capability throughout our

AbTF has developed a new standard created for sustainable cashmere he non-profit Aid by Trade Foundation (AbTF) has and that no animals were harmed in the process."The Tdeveloped a new standard for sustainable new standard offers businesses their first opportunity cashmere amidst growing concern over the welfare to sell products made from certified, sustainable of cashmere goats and demands for transparency and cashmere wool from Inner Mongolia."The demand for corporate responsibility. The AbTF's Good Cashmere The Good Cashmere Standard is correspondingly Standard covers the welfare of animals, the protection great. This sends an important signal to the entire of the environment and the working conditions of textile and fashion sector," continued Stridde. The farmers and farm workers. It has been developed in ERDOS Cashmere Group, one of the largest producers collaboration with animal-rights specialists and of cashmere in Inner Mongolia, a key supporter of the independent cashmere-production experts. new standard, is one of five producers already offering and processing certified cashmere wool. It will focus initially on 2,000 farmers in Inner Mongolia parties visit their farms to verify the proper region of Northern China where cashmere goats are kept implementation of the standard. Peter Hahn, one of Germany's leading cashmere by settled farmers rather than roaming with nomadic retailers, was the first retail partner of the Good Tina Stridde, Managing Director of AbTF, said: "The herders. Farmers and buying stations for cashmere wool Cashmere Standard. Patrizia Strupp, Head of Good Cashmere Standard provides a standard for the in Inner Mongolia will be certified only if proven to be in Sustainability at Peter Hahn, said: "We are thrilled to important resource (of) cashmere. It meets increased compliance with the standard's criteria. be partnering with this new standard from the consumer demand for sustainability, quality, and beginning."It meets our high standards of animal Cashmere farmers first complete a comprehensive transparency."Many consumers want to be certain welfare and environmental protection and creates series of questions on their livestock-keeping that the textiles they purchase were produced in greater security for our customers and even more practices. Based on these results, independent third accordance with social and environmental standards confidence in our company Roica EF premium stretch fibre received New fabric factory in GRS certification Vietnam to supply fabric oica EF premium stretch fibre has received GRS - Global for the garment industry R Recycled Standard certification by the Textile Exchange ensuring that hosiery manufacturers using its products can he Viet Tien Garment Joint Stock Corporation (VGG) now offer 100 percent sustainable solutions for both the leg Trecently signed up with Luenthai and Newtech to establish and waistband sections of tights. Roica, from Asahi Kasei, is the Viet Thai Tech fabric factory to supply fabric for the part of the Roica Eco-Smart portfolio and is made with 58 garment and textile industry. With a total investment of $20 percent pre-consumer recycled content. “The new GRS mn, the project’s first phase will involve $12 mn and the certification of Roica EF will allows us to offer producers and second, $8 mn. It is expected to turn operational in June. brands to become a responsible and proactive part of the Chairman of the Vietnam Textile and Apparel Association Vu innovation process,” said Hiroaki Shinohe, Roica's Chief DucGiang said the project aims at proactively sourcing raw Marketing Officer based in Germany. “From now on there is materials, shortening production and delivery time and not excused: Roica EF for both leg parts and waistband is the meeting strict quality requirements from customers in the last piece solution to fully sustainable and certified tights.” garment industry. Giang, who is also Chairman of VGG, said The GRS certification is intended to meet the needs of companies looking to verify the recycled the factory will contribute to solving the shortage of fabric content of their products both finished and intermediate, and to verify responsible social, environmental resources that is now a big obstacle for the domestic garment and chemical practices in their production. The objectives of the GRS are to define requirements to and textile industry, according to a report. The factory will be ensure accurate content claims and good working conditions, and that harmful environmental and built according to US green standards and will be the first chemical impacts are minimised green standard fabric factory in the country

14 APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 15 Taiwan to display new sports accessories manufacturing tech at ISPO

aiwan trade backed by Taiwan External Trade Taiwan. From cotton socks to sports pressure socks TDevelopment Council (TAITRA), will display and sports functional socks, these high-quality Taiwan’s latest sports accessories manufacturing products made with advanced technologies are technology at ISPO Munich 2020 from January 26-29 recognised by consumers all over the world. at Messe Munchen, Germany. Through exhibition of Taiwan's eyewear industry has been producing more than 20 products such as sports towels & fashionable and innovative products for decades, glasses, TAITRA hopes the products will attract a lot manufacturers put their focus on sports correction of business opportunities. films, trying to explore the market which has long Taiwan trade is Taiwan's most prominent B2B portal, been undervalued. Wide coverage and large curvature organised by TAITRA and backed by BOFT. TAITRA the past decade, manufacturers have cooperated with of lenses are always the key of sport glasses, which assists Taiwanese businesses in strengthening their Taiwan's top sports organisations to develop largely increased the technology barriers to produce competitiveness in the international market. With exclusive sports socks. From materials used to sport glasses with myopia and astigmatism lenses. advent of 2020 Tokyo Olympic Games, Taiwan's textile product design, the industry players totally By inventing the exclusive technology to minimise and optical enterprises have been in the peak season transformed the perception of sports socks by using the ‘rhombic mirror effect’ in optics, Taiwan with intensive orders since the second half of 2019. cutting-edge technology. manufacturers with R&D capabilities successfully Taiwan made accessories will be worn by athletes Unlike most of the products in the market that created the marketable sports corrections films by from all over the world celebrating achievements of emphasise the material or fabric used, Changhua improving wearer’s comfort and broadening the Taiwan manufacturing industry. hosiery manufacturers took the game to the next vision. Although foreign manufacturers developed With its forward-looking mindset, Taiwan’s created level by adding functions of ‘sports injuries similar products by using different solutions, the the best stockings centre – Shetou, Changhua, Central prevention’ and ‘sports performance enhancement’ customer satisfaction of Taiwan's world leading Taiwan. This home of stockings industry supplies 90 to the products. Up to now, there are 200 sock products is more than 95 percent percent of stockings to the international market. In factories in Changhua, the ‘hosiery kingdom’ of

Levi Strauss announces management changes in company evi Strauss has announced leadership changes in roles in ecommerce and international expansion Lthe company. Roy Bagattini, Executive Vice during his nearly 15-year tenure at Walmart, the President and President for Levi Strauss Americas, is company said in a statement. leaving to assume a group Chief Executive Officer position. Marc Rosen, Executive Vice President and “Over the past six years, Rosen has proven that he is President of Direct-To-Consumer, will become an agile and collaborative leader who brings deep Executive Vice President and President for Levi expertise and a growth mind-set to every challenge. Strauss Americas. Rosen has a proven track record, having led our direct- to-consumer business through 15 consecutive Bagattini’s last day is February 16, 2020. During his quarters of double-digit growth. Rosen’s passion for tenure, Bagattini served in numerous roles and helped the consumer, paired with his extensive experience set the strategic foundation for a strong, diversified working with wholesale customers, makes him the whose insights and perspective helped to shape our business. Rosen will be responsible for leading the perfect choice to lead our largest and most complex winning strategy. Today, we are set up for continued company’s largest commercial operations, spanning business,” Chip Bergh, President and CEO of Levi success. I am grateful for his contributions to the all brands and channels across the US, Canada, Strauss said. strong foundation now in place at Levi Strauss, and I Mexico, Brazil, and the balance of Latin America. He know that he will be a high-impact CEO in his next also will retain leadership of the direct-to-consumer “Bagattini has been a vital member of the team that role,” Bergh said business. Rosen is a veteran retailer who has held led Levi Strauss’s turnaround. He is a respected leader

Hugo Boss witnesses strong sales growth The sales in Great Britain and France grew by 8 percent the course of the year and the completed renovations while in Germany, an increase in sales in the own of strategically important Boss stores carried out in retail business did not fully compensate for a the prior quarters made a disproportionately high persistently difficult wholesale business. In the Asia- contribution to growth in the own retail business. Pacific region, sales rose 4 percent in the Q4 mainly Supported by the strategic expansion of the online due to the ongoing strong sales momentum in concession model, own online sales growth mainland China, where the group once again achieved accelerated to 52 percent in Q4, adjusted for currency significant double-digit growth. effects, the company said. Contradictory, the environment in Hong Kong, Currency-adjusted sales in the wholesale business remained difficult in the Q4. The persistently decreased 4 percent. The market environment in ermany-based fashion company Hugo Boss has challenging market environment continued to weigh Germany and the US remained challenging. Hugo Boss Gachieved strong sales growth in Q4 FY19. Group on sales performance in the US and Canada. Overall is one of the leading companies in the premium sales increased 4 percent on a preliminary basis, sales in the US decreased 7 percent in the final quarter, segment of the global apparel market. From collections adjusted currency rates. In the reporting currency, this Hugo Boss said in its analysis of results for the quarter. to service. The Boss and Hugo mens' and womenswear not only cover business wear, casual represents an increase of 5 percent to 825 mn euro In total, currency-adjusted sales in the own retail outfits and athleisure wear, but also elegant compared to 783 euro last year. The sales accelerated business increased 7 percent in Q4. The intensification eveningwear for special occasions in Europe while remained challenging in Hong Kong. of online partnerships in the concession model over

16 APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 17 YKK zippers use marine plastic waste apanese fastener manufacturer YKK has percent of all plastic entering the ocean originates Jdeveloped new apparel zippers using marine from land based sources. plastic waste intercepted on the coastline of Sri Lanka. A plethora of research into the impacts of plastic The company will present its new Natulon Ocean pollution on aquatic animals confirms the devastating Sourced collection at both ISPO Munich and the effects it has. Environmental organisation Parley for Outdoor Retailer + Snow Show events later this the Oceans predicts between 57,000 and 135,000 month, from 26-29 and 29-31 respectively. YKK, with whales are entangled in discarded fishing nets and a portfolio comprising both the Good Design Best 100 other plastic waste each year, whilst on a micro- award winning Green Rise zipper – made from a plant- scale, organisms in the depths of our oceans have based polyester – and an organic cotton zipper, has been found to ingest plastic microfibres. Set to be extended its collection of sustainable fasteners with product, made from sugarcane molasses, a by-product launched this spring, YKK’s Ocean Sourced zippers the creation of its new Ocean Sourced product. of the sugar production process, the company reduces petroleum usage by 30 percent. will be made entirely from plastic waste found within “Natulon Ocean Sourced zippers offer the high quality a 50km stretch of coastline in Sri Lanka. that people expect from YKK while addressing the It’s flagship Natulon original zipper on the other hand “YKK has a long history of environmental stewardship, environmental crisis in our oceans,” said Takashi makes use of recycled material, integrating 3,600 which is an integral part of our “Cycle of Goodness” Tsukumo, Vice President, YKK Corporation Global plastic bottles into an estimated 10,000 zippers. philosophy. Our Environmental Pledge was signed by our Marketing Group. “Furthermore, the upcycling of ocean What’s more, all zippers are finished using YKK’s CEO in 1994, and we created Natulon, the first zipper bound plastic into these zippers emits less CO2 and Eco-Dye which eliminates water. made from recycled PET bottles and polyester remnants, requires less energy to produce than zippers made With the development of its Ocean Sourced zipper, over 25 years ago. Today we offer a wide range of out of virgin polyester.” YKK looks to tackle the mounting issue of marine sustainable products and technologies. Natulon Ocean The mitigation of resource consumption is a thought- plastic waste. According to research referenced back Sourced is just the latest addition to our portfolio of eco- out design decision that is seen throughout its to McKinsey & Company’s Stemming the Tide: Land- innovation,” concluded Tsukumo sustainable zipper assortment. With its Green Rise based strategies for a plastic- free ocean report, 80

Inditex support social employment and circular economy initiatives in Spain The social employment programme, previously on the promotion of human rights, dignity, cooperation supported by 11.5 mn euro ($12.75 mn) in funding by and justice, framed by care and respect for the Inditex since 2011, has already helped more than 2,500 environment”. Under the terms of the extended people at risk of social exclusion in Spain to find work. agreement, Inditex will channel, via Caritas, 5 mn The new agreement also provides a fresh boost to the euro ($5.5 mn) to promote job access for the least installation of clothing collection containers across privileged in Spain through social economy, skills Spain, adding to the 1,800 already placed nationwide training and entrepreneurship support initiatives since 2016, enabling the collection of more than 48,000 between now and 2022. tonnes of clothing for charity or recycling. Inditex has also pledged to contribute 3.5 mn euro Inditex's Executive Chairman, Pablo Isla, singled out ($3.9 mn) to install 300 new on-street clothing ashion giant Inditex is donating another 8.5 mn the collaboration as “one of the Group's most collection containers in Spanish cities, improve Feuro ($9.4 mn) to the Caritas charity to support important initiatives on account of its social impact traceability, and raise the profile of Caritas's second- social employment and circular economy initiatives and environmental relevance". hand clothing stores. in Spain. The company, which owns Zara and is the Isla said the employment programme had generated Clothing and shoes that can be reused are donated world's biggest fashion group, said the money would "2,500 examples of hope, tenacity and new horizons free of charge to people being attended to by Caritas be used on job creation for vulnerable sections of for families”, while the environmental initiative was or are sold in the NGO's stores, raising money for society and the collection of clothing for recycling “the best example of a circular economy initiative in charity. Products that cannot be reused are sent for and reuse. Inditex's Executive Chairman, Pablo Isla, the textile sector anywhere in the world". recycling, preferably for the regeneration of high-quality and Caritas's President, Manuel Bretón, made the fibres which can be used to make new garments agreement to extend two existing collaboration Bretón, for his part, said Caritas's social economy agreements for three years. efforts “will continue to help us foster a society based

Lenzing commits to reduce carbon dioxide footprint

enzing is committed to reduce its carbon dioxide goods and materials at the US commerce department Lfootprint by half by 2030 and has a vision to become for a plant tour and broad discussion on the company’s a carbon dioxide-neutral group of companies by 2050, commitment to US investment and the according to Erwin Kuebel, President of Lenzing Fibres administration’s key trade and investment priorities, Inc. (LFI). He said this when two top US government according to an NCTO. officials dealing with textiles recently visited the The main focus of the discussion focussed on company’s facility in Axis, Alabama. maintaining the competitiveness of the US textile National Council of Textile Organisations (NCTO) industry through policies designed to encourage on- member LFI hosted Bill Jackson, assistant US trade shoring, boost exports and support ‘Made in USA’ representative for textiles at the US Trade provisions, particularly the critical Berry Amendment. Representative’s (USTR) office, and Lloyd Wood, Jackson also briefed on the pending US-Mexico- Deputy Assistant Secretary for Textiles, consumers Canada Agreement (USMCA)

18 APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 19 PM Modi says economy's fundamentals strong

he fundamentals of Indian economy are strong and it has the capacity to Tbounce back, according to Prime Minister Narendra Modi, who asserted that the idea of a $5-trn economy was not a sudden development and was based on a deep understanding of India’s strengths. Modi met economists, venture capitalists and business leaders at NITI Aayog. According to a report, experts were divided over the issue of relaxing the fiscal deficit target for the current year. While some suggested the target should be relaxed to meet expenditure on infrastructure and other sectors, others urged to stick to the fiscal consolidation path. US-India close to conclude trade package The two-hour meeting reportedly discussed jobs, boosting exports to beat the slowdown, asset monetisation, disinvestment of state-run companies, the he United States and India are banking sector and credit availability. The government aims to rein in the fiscal Tclose to concluding a trade deficit at 3.3 percent of gross domestic product in the current fiscal year but package that would offer enhanced sluggish revenues have raised doubts about its capacity to meet the target. market access to both countries, India’s outgoing ambassador to the Modi, who has held a series of meetings with industrialists and experts ahead US Harsh Vardhan Shringla of the budget, to be presented on February 1, identified tourism, urban recently told a group of Indian- development, infrastructure and agri-based industry as sectors that have a American entrepreneurs. He, great potential to take the economy forward and create jobs. however, did not give an exact date The meeting was attended by top Ministers, including Home Minister Amit on which the much anticipated Shah, Minister for Road Transport and Highways and Micro, Small and Medium trade deal would be signed. Industries Nitin Gadkari, Railways and Commerce Minister Piyush Goyal, Shringla said the signing of the trade package would pave the way for a much Secretaries from Various Ministries, Vice Chairman of NITI Aayog Rajiv Kumar bigger bilateral trade deal, which will only benefit the companies of the two and the Chief Executive Officer of the government think tank Amitabh Kant, countries. He was addressing the entrepreneurs during a farewell lunch organised according to a official release. Modi has held as many as 12 meetings so far with recently for him by TiE DC, a regional chapter of the global non-profit membership groups of industrialists and experts. Each Ministry has been asked to prepare a and mentoring organisation for entrepreneurs, according to a report. five-year vision and Modi is reportedly personally reviewing each plan, going through detailed presentations The trade deal was first announced by US President Donald Trump when he met Prime Minister Narendra Modi in New York in September on the sidelines of the UN General Assembly. Trump on September 24 said his country will soon have a trade deal with India to boost economic ties between the two nations. India- Escalation of tension between US US bilateral trade has increased significantly in the last decade and it is expected and Iran to impact India’s exports to be over $160 bn by 2019, he said scalation of tension between Ethe US and Iran will have Cotton procured by CCI not to be implications on India's exports to the Persian Gulf nation, said FIEO kept unused President Sharad Kumar Saraf. he Indian Government will ensure Tensions between Iran and the US Tthat cotton procured by the increased after an American Cotton Corporation of India (CCI) is drone strike that killed top Iranian not kept unused, leading to problems General recently. Iran is a key trading partner of India. FIEO Chief said so far for micro, small and medium exporters have not flagged any concerns related with exports to Iran. enterprises (MSMEs), according to "However, if the tensions esclates, it may have an effect on India's exports Minister of Textiles and women and to Iran," added Saraf. FIEO Chief also said that due to existing trade sanctions child development Smriti Irani, who on Iran, Iranian shipping lines are only taking Indian consignments to that recently said the two-decade-old country. Iran’s major exports to India are oil, fertilisers and chemicals, while problem of obligation of Hank yarn it imports cereals, tea, coffee, basmati rice, spices and organic chemicals, production has also been resolved. among others said Saraf. She said this while inaugurating the TEXPROCIL award function recently, FIEO President also added that India's exports to Iran during 2018-19 were $3.51 according to an official report. bn, while imports were $13.52 bn. The trade imbalance is mainly because of TEXPROCIL is the first export promotion council set up in India in 1954 and is India's import of oil from Iran. Sharad Kumar Saraf is also of the view that Iran responsible for promoting export of cotton textiles. In fiscal 2018-19, the council holds huge export opportunities in sectors such as agriculture, chemicals, members exported $ 11.5 bn worth cotton textiles machinery, pharmaceuticals, paper and paper products, man-made fibre and filament yarn and essential oils

20 APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 Indian Govt. scraps MEIS New industrial policies expected for garments this fiscal he Indian Government ndia’s Department for Promotion of Industry and Internal Trade (DPIIT) is Thas withdrawn Merc- Iactively working on the e-commerce as well as new industrial policies, and handise Exports from India both are expected to be released by the end of this fiscal, according to SPIIT Scheme (MEIS) retrosp- Secretary Guruprasad Mohapatra. The department has done several round of ectively from March 7, stakeholder meetings on both the policies, he said. 2019 for HSN code A draft national e-commerce policy was chapters 61, 62 and 63. released in February that proposed setting Claims already paid to the up a legal and technological framework exporters under MEIS will for restrictions on cross-border data flow be suitably adjusted and also laid out conditions for against Rebate of State and Central Taxes and Levies (RoSCTL) and recoveries businesses regarding collection or will be made wherever due, an official notification said. processing of sensitive data locally and As per the recommendations of the Expenditure Finance Committee (EFC), a storing it abroad. Several foreign e- special one-time additional ad-hoc incentive of upto 1 per cent of FoB value commerce firms have raised concerns will be provided for exports of apparel and made-ups to offset the difference over some points in the draft pertaining between RoSCTL and RoSL + MEIS at the rate of 4 percent, from March 7, to data. The department has received 2019 to December 31, 2019, the Ministry of textiles notification said. huge response on the draft and it is examining all the views and comments. The EFC has recommended that the additional incentive under the scheme would be as per claims from the exporters and the total adhoc incentive As the draft policy includes several provisions related to data, the department is would not exceed `600 cr for the period mentioned above. also looking at the Personal Data Protection Bill approved by the cabinet earlier this month, according to a report. The proposed new industrial policy is aimed at Under the scheme, incentive of upto 1 percent of FOB value for each line in a promoting emerging sectors, reducing regulatory hurdles and making India a shipping bill will be provided for those exports of apparel and made-ups which manufacturing hub. may receive lesser benefits under RoSCTL as against RoSL+ MEIS. This will be the third industrial policy after the first in 1956 and the second in 1991. The department of commerce will take steps for the validation of claims It will replace the industrial policy of 1991 which was prepared in the backdrop of by the Directorate General of Foreign Trade (DGFT) and department of the balance of payment crisis. The DPIIT had initiated the process of formulation of revenue (DoR) for correct disbursal of benefits. The ad-hoc incentive would a new industrial policy in May 2017. The new policy will subsume the National be implemented in the form of scrips for which an outlay would need to be Manufacturing Policy (NMP) provided by DoR

APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 21 India should raise India’s woven linen fabrics exports increases labour productivity to he global trade of woven fabrics of linen has push GDP growth Tjumped with a CAGR of 16.20 percent from 2016 to 2018, according to data from TexPro. The global trade of woven fabrics of linen was $2,284.77 mn in 2016, which increased to $3,085.18 mn in 2018. The total trade of woven fabrics of linen has risen by 32.23 percent in 2018 over the previous year. The trade of linen woven fabrics is anticipated to reach $4,859 mn in 2021 with a CAGR of 16.20 export. These were distantly followed by the UK percent from 2018, according to market analysis ($48.93 mn), India ($45.53 mn), Belarus ($45.49 ndia will have to raise its labour productivity growth to 6.3 tool TexPro. The global exports of woven fabrics mn) and Spain ($44.33 mn). Ipercent to achieve 8 per cent gross domestic product of linen was $1,580.16 mn in 2016, which increased by 39.15 per cent to $2,198.84 mn in From 2013 to 2018, the most notable rate of (GDP) growth, according to India Ratings and Research growth in terms of export, amongst the main (Ind-Ra), which recently said to attain 9 per cent GDP 2018. Total exports moved up by 34.18 per cent in 2018 compared to the previous year and is exporting countries, was attained by China growth, labour productivity growth will have to be raised (263.53 percent) and Italy (222.63 percent). The to 7.3 percent. The labour productivity growth in fiscal 2018- expected to reach $3,609.38 mn in 2021 with a CAGR of 17.96 per cent from 2018. US ($109.35 mn), Italy ($80.60 mn), South Korea 19 was 5.2 percent. India’s labour productivity growth ($52.64 mn), China ($42.01 mn), Spain ($38.26 between fiscals 2004-05 and 2007-08 was 8.5 per cent. It The global import of woven fabrics of linen was mn) and UK ($36.34 mn) were the key importers came under pressure in the aftermath of the 2008 global $704.61 mn in 2016, which grew by 25.79 percent of woven fabrics of linen across the globe in financial crisis. However, it recovered thereafter and grew to $886.33 mn in 2018. Total imports rose by 2018, together comprising 40.53 percent of total at 5.8 per cent from 2015-16 to 2018-19. 27.64 percent in 2018 over the previous year import. These were followed by Turkey ($33.90 The challenge on the productivity front for India is two-fold, and is expected to reach $1,250.46 mn in 2021 mn), the Netherlands ($30.42 mn), Japan ($29.76 Ind-Ra said. First, how to raise the overall labour productivity with a CAGR of 12.16 percent from 2018. mn) and France ($29.49 mn).From 2013 to 2018, to a level that delivers the required GDP growth rate, and China ($1,477.21 mn), Italy ($171.96 mn) and the most notable rate of growth in terms of second, how to lift the labour productivity in the lagging Belgium ($68.76 mn) were the key exporters of import, amongst the main importing countries, sectors so that growth is more evenly balanced and woven fabrics of linen across the globe in 2018, was attained by South Korea (693.27percent) sustainable over the medium- to long-term. together comprising 78.13 percent of total and Italy (36.89 percent) Sectors like manufacturing (7.2 percent), electricity, gas, and water supply (7.7 percent), transport, storage, and communications (7.4 percent), and community, social, and AEPC VC meets govt. officials to discuss personal services (6.2 percent) contributed significantly to the overall labour productivity between 1999-2000 to 2015- issues of Risky Exporter status 16. The sectors that lagged are construction, agriculture and mining, which recorded labour productivity growth of the exporters since there is a lot of amount 0.4 percent, 3.2 percent and 4.8 percent respectively. On the pending under IGST, Drawback etc., contrary, China maintained a labour productivity of 6.5 Further he highlighted the issues faced by the percent and above across all sectors during the same period. Tirupur exporters in Tuticorin port/Customs such Ind-Ra believes a closer monitoring of the sources GDP growth that shipping bill details are not properly is vital. As labour productivity is only one-factor or partial- transmitting to other Govt. departments, pending factor productivity measure explaining GDP growth, implementation of Direct Port Entry for Export decomposing the factor inputs into quantity of labour, quality containers in Tuticorin Customs, and of labour, information and communication technology (ICT) unwarranted alert against BRCs, seeking time capital, non-ICT capital and total factor productivity (TFP) EPC has organised an interactive meeting extension for rectifying Error code SB005 (due to provides a better perspective on the sources of GDP growth. Aon 2nd Jan’2020 in Tirupur with D Anil, invoice mismatch), extension of Cargo Commissioner of Customs, Trichy/Tuticorin admission time to till 9 PM instead of 5 PM and The company believes the quantity of labour along with the exclusively to discuss the issues of Risky the issues against HS Code Classification raising non-ICT capital will continue to contribute significantly to Exporter status. Sidharth, Deputy in the Customs port etc. the GDP growth due to the demographic composition. But, Commissioner, GST, Tirupur and Kalaiselvi, Asst. With regard to Exporter’s concern, D Anil, any decline in the contribution of quality of labour and ICT Commissioner (ICD) along with officials of Commissioner of Customs responded that capital is a matter of concern. Customs were present in the meeting. definitely the O/o. Customs and GST will work While the inability of the workforce to upgrade its skill in line Dr. A Sakthivel, Vice Chairman, AEPC has out some modus operandi to sort out the Risky with the technological, business, managerial changes in presided over the meeting. AEPC EC Members Exporter issues and need to be taking up the the Indian economy appears to be the reason for the former, along with office bearers of TEA have also issues to the higher level and solve the problem a slowdown in capital expenditure lately appears to be the attended the meeting. While addressing at the earliest. cause for the latter. Exporter’s issues, Sakthivel briefed the serious Towards the issues existing in Tuticorin port, he issue of Risky Exporter status and the releasing Productivity-related challenges can have an adverse impact has listened to all the issues and immediately ITC less than 100 percent by O/o.GST. In this on economic expansion, profit growth and societal welfare informed in the meeting itself that he is circumstance the exporters are struck in in India. Since longer and sustainable productivity growth organizing a meeting at Tuticorin Customs on between the O/o.GST and Customs and unable critically depends on how much businesses invest in coming 10th Jan and invited the trade to avail their benefits since unless it is 100 innovation, knowledge, and intangible capital, and how representatives to join and address all the issues percent the Customs is not able to release the committed governments are to structural reforms, Ind-Ra pertaining to Tuticorin Customs and solve the payment scroll. Hence, he has requested the believes it is imperative that structural changes in the factor, issues positively product and labour markets are given priority officials to apply some modus operandi and help

22 APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 23 Cotton yarn spinner’s margins likely to shrink perating margin of Indian cotton yarn spinners is The dynamics of the spread between international Oexpected to shrink by 200-400 basis points (bps) and domestic prices of cotton also affects profitability. on-year in fiscal 2020 owing to a narrowed spread International cotton prices declined by around 15 between cotton and yarn prices as compared to last percent between April and October 2019, following a fiscal, according to CRISIL. The decline would be more bumper crop in Brazil and the United States, and than what was estimated by CRISIL in May, with small destocking by global consumers, mainly China. On players bearing the brunt, the company has said. the other hand, domestic prices fell only 10 percent Higher domestic cotton prices compared with during this period because of an increase in minimum international prices during April-October 2019, a sharp support price (MSP), which rendered India’s cotton fall in exports mainly to China and Pakistan, and the yarn exports uncompetitive. resultant domestic oversupply would lead to the critical for spinners to negate the fall in margin till Cotton output is expected to improve with late squeeze, CRISIL said in a report. October 2019. recovery in monsoon and increase in sowing area to An analysis of 79 cotton spinners rated by CRISIL 127.7 lakh hectare (6 per cent higher on-year and 8 Gautam Shahi, Director, CRISIL Ratings, said, “While suggests that mid- and small-sized spinners (having per cent more than the five-year average). That would domestic demand (70 percent of domestic production) spindles less than 20,000) are likely to be impacted put pressure on domestic cotton prices, which could is expected to grow 3-4 percent this fiscal, supply the most, as shrinking revenue and lower margin will slip below the MSP sans policy intervention. On the has been higher because of lower exports. The United impact cash generation. Also, their balance sheets other hand, international cotton prices are expected States-China trade war has impacted demand for yarn are not as strong as some of the large players, which to remain range-bound until tariff issues between the in China, while the Indian Government has banned will impact credit metrics. United States and China get resolved. Large spinners yarn exports to Pakistan. China and Pakistan will fare better owing to superior customer profiles, The spread fell from `86 per kg in April to below (accounting for 35 percent and 5 percent of yarn diverse product mix, and ability to manufacture a wide `75 by October, resulting in a sharp fall in operating exports, respectively, in fiscal 2019) have reduced range of yarn counts. CRISIL expects mid- and small- profitability for spinners. But with the arrival of imports from India by 50-60 percent this fiscal. As a sized players with limited balance sheet strength to new crop, the spread has started recovering from result, exports in the first seven months of fiscal 2020 face headwinds, until demand firms up and the recent November onwards. However, sustainability of are lower by around 38 percent leading to higher improvement in spreads sustains spread above `80-85 per kg for the rest of fiscal is domestic inventories and pressure on spreads.” Growth expected in India’s GDP in FY21 are an abrupt and significant fall in lending by non- measures to prop-up the economy will come to aid banking financial companies close on the heels of a only in the medium term, Ind-Ra believes. In the slowdown in bank lending, reduced income growth of forthcoming union budget, Ind-Ra expects the shortfall households coupled with a fall in savings and higher in the tax plus non-tax revenue to result in the fiscal leverage and inability of the dispute resolution and deficit slipping to 3.6 per cent of GDP (budgeted 3.3 judicial systems to quickly unlock the stuck capital. per cent) in 2019-20, even after accounting for the Although some improvement in 2020-21 is expected, surplus transferred by the Reserve bank of India. these risks are going to persist. ndia’s gross domestic product (GDP) is expected to A continuance of low GDP growth even in FY21 means Igrow at 5.5 per cent year on year (YoY) in fiscal As a result, the Indian economy is stuck in a phase of subdued tax revenue and limited room for stepping- 2020-21, but downside risks persist, according to low consumption as well as low investment demand. up expenditure. Ind-Ra believes the government will India Ratings and Research (Ind-Ra), which recently The organisation believes a strong policy push have to construct the FY21 budget in a way that said this is only a marginal improvement over the coupled with some heavy lifting by the government is expenditure is rationalised and prioritised and all GDP growth of 5 per cent estimated by National required to revive the domestic demand cycle and avenues of revenue generation are tapped Statistical Office for 2019-20. Several factors have catapult the economy back into a high growth phase, contributed to the slowdown. The prominent factors , Ind-Ra said in a report. The government’s recent Marginally increase duty drawback rates on textiles by Govt. ased on the recommendations made by the Duty cent to 2.8 per cent, apparel from 1.9 per cent to 2.1 to make the cotton yarn and fabric exports BDrawback Committee, the government has per cent, thus encouraging value addition and benefit competitive. The industry has been pleading the same announced the revised duty drawback rates vide the predominantly cotton based spinning sector. from the inception of announcing Rebate of State Customs Notification 07/2020-Cus(NT). The marginal Levies (RoSL) benefit for garments and made-ups," Thanking the government for considering the inputs increase in duty drawback across the textile value said Chandran. He appealed to the Government to given by the textiles and clothing industry and enhancing chain will come into effect from February 4, 2020. The include cotton yarn and fabric under Rebate of State & the rates marginally across the value chain, SIMA Southern India Mills' Association (SIMA) has hailed Central Taxes and Levies Scheme (RoSCTL) to revive Chairman Ashwin Chandran said, "Duty Drawback being the announcement. the spinning and weaving segments from the long a WTO-compatible export benefit, the scheme would drawn recession, utilise the surplus capacity, convert The government reimburses the customs duty and help the exporters to achieve a sustained growth rate the surplus cotton into value added products and other central taxes that are not subsumed in the GST provided the duty drawback calculation takes care of export and also create jobs for several lakhs of people. and levied on inputs used in the manufacture of all incidences of duties and taxes." Stating that the exported final product by way of duty drawback. The marginal increase in duty drawback might help to He stated that the new Remission of Duties or Taxes Duty Drawback Committee periodically revises the boost cotton yarn exports to a certain extent, Chandran on Export Product (RoDTEP) benefit would refund all drawback rates and the value cap (if any) depending appealed to the government to remove the value cap the embedded / blocked duties and taxes and cover upon the incidences of duties and taxes. for spandex yarn and certain categories of woven all the textile products viz fibres, yarn, fabrics, fabrics to encourage value addition. garments, made-ups, technical textiles, etc across The duty drawback rate for cotton grey yarn has been the value chain to have a level playing field in the increased from 1.7 per cent to 1.9 per cent, for fabric "It is essential to refund the state and central levies global market and remain competitive from 1.6 per cent to 2 per cent, made-ups from 2.6 per that are not refunded under duty drawback calculations

24 APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 A Sakthivel becomes Chairman of AEPC Coir units to make products adma Shri Dr. A. Sakthivel has taken charge under cluster project Pas Chairman of Apparel Export Promotion Council (AEPC) on 6th January, 2020 in a Grand amil Nadu has approved a cluster project for coir units in ` function held at New Delhi. He will be the TPollachi and has disbursed 2.14 cr as first phase grant for Chairman of AEPC for two years period (2020 & the programme. A group of coir units had formed a special 2021). It is a pride moment that he is the one purpose vehicle and submitted a project to the government to and the only person in the history of the Council make coir tufted mats and coir geo-textiles. The State would ` ` swearing as Chairman for the 4th time. give 5.77 cr out of the total cost of 7.98 cr. The remaining amount would be invested by the industries. A facility was Dr. A. Sakthivel has previously been the coming up at Vellalapalayam in Pollachi and was expected to Chairman of AEPC for three tenures in the year be commissioned by the end of this year. 1998, 2004 & 2012 and has also been a member of Executive Committee of AEPC for the last 35 Thirty three units had years. During his earlier tenures, he had steered projects like the Knitwear Technology come together to form Mission, the Sector Skill Council for Apparel, a national Social Compliance Project for apparel the special purpose sector and several other initiatives for holistic development of the sector. In his eminent vehicle. These units career of more than four decades, Dr. Sakthivel has held various positions including that of would supply the raw the Chairman of Indo American Chamber of Commerce (IACC). He is the Founder President material to the com- of Tirupur Exporters’ Association (TEA) and has served the TEA for 25 years. mon facility centre, which would have For his role in placing Tirupur on the World Map as the main cluster for sourcing knitwear tufting machinery and supplies from India and his contribution to Apparel Industry, the Government of India bestowed equipment to make geo-textiles. The value added products would him with Padma Shri in the year 2009. A guide and mentor to Tirupur knitwear Industry, Dr. be marketed by the special purpose vehicle, according to a report. Sakthivel has steered the growth of exports from Tirupur from a mere `15 cr in 1984-85 to The coir units in Pollachi used to supply yarn to Kerala to be made more than `27,000 cr in the year 2016-17. Dr. Sakthivel has also served as the President of into products. In recent years, China was importing a lot of fibre Federation of Indian Exports Organisations (FIEO) and currently holds the position of FIEO from Pollachi. Nearly 250 new units had come up because of the Chairman for Southern Region. He is the first Chairman of Sector Skill Council for Apparel, demand for fibre. But the challenge was that the buyers determined Made-ups & Handlooms (SSCAMH) which has the mandate to develop skills repository the price and the fibre price was low. When the common facility is standards, evaluation criterion, accreditation system for creating employability in the apparel commissioned, almost 300 coir spinning machines will get jobs. sector. He is also the Chairman of Poppys Knitwear, Tirupur which exports to over 50 countries The fibre made into yarn will be supplied to the facility where it will worldwide and is a trusted supplier to global brands like Marks & Spencer’s, Next and Tesco, be made into value added products. The project will help coir units Waitrose, Mothercare, Debenhams, John Lewis, etc in Pollachi get into different product segments

APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 25 Painting all exporters with same brush is unfair and damaging eacting to the report on January, 2020, Sharad creditable since the scheme is in operation for over 50 RKumar Saraf, President, FIEO said that it is very years and helped in establishing the reputation of such unfortunate that exporters have been singled out for exporters in India as well as abroad. The Report wrongly GST frauds. Like any other section of the society, paints the status holders, who contribute to over 60 observed Saraf, there could a fraction of exporters percent of the country's exports. who might have misused the GST refund facility. It FIEO admitted that exporters were critical of the GST will be very unfair to subject the entire exporting Scheme as, in the initial stages, the refund process for community for serious checks and investigation based GST faced numerous challenges. The GST refund has on alleged misuse by limited few. affected the liquidity of exporters since there is a time FIEO Chief said that exporters have Import Export He said that there are many instances where actual lag between the payment of ITC and its refund at the Code Number based on PAN and Bank Accounts. They payment of GST to government is very low as time of exports. Unfortunately, the Scheme of e-wallet, have obtained GST Registration through KYC cross compared to IGST refund since while few goods are which has been recommended by the GST Council as verifying their email and Mobile number. The status subject low GST, many services used by exporters early as 6th October 2017, which was expected to be holders have submitted the CA certificate certifying have high GST. Therefore, if a merchant exporter has put into operation in April 2018 and then deferred to the specified exports while claiming the coveted taken goods at 5 percent and services at 18 percent, October 2018, has not yet been rolled out. The Scheme status. Due diligence has been done by all the he has sufficient ITC at his credit to pay for 5 percent may have helped in easing the liquidity problem of authorities issuing such documents. If an exporter is IGST at the time of exports. He may not either pay exporters. However, he admitted that GST has imparted not found at his registered address, then the IGST in cash or pay only a fraction of that while claiming much needed competitiveness to exports. President possibility is that he would have changed his place of complete refund of IGST. FIEO has written to the Government requesting the business and records may not have been updated. He authorities to discuss the issue across the table and offered his services to help the Authorities to locate Saraf added that such news also makes our international explore solutions to minimize, if not avoid, the revenue the exporter and helped them in the investigation. buyers jittery as they consider Status holders much leakage all together

Chairman of AEPC thanked govt. for announcing RoSCTL and other additional ad-hoc incentive r A Sakthivel, Chairman AEPC, thanked the MEIS benefits available to the Industry at the rate of DHon’ble Finance Minister, Hon’ble Commerce 4percent (2percent+2percent)”. Minister and Hon’ble Textile Minister for announcing Sharing the background of the schemes, Chairman RoSCTL and other additional ad-hoc incentive to the AEPC explained that the industry had been given Apparel Industry upto 1 percent of the FOB value on ROSCTL and MEIS simultaneously as each scheme 14th Jan 2020. He has also requested for had a specific purpose - MEIS for infrastructural/ reinstatement of the MEIS benefits up to 31.03.2020 logistics cost disadvantage and RoSL/ ROSCTL for “The requested review of the retrospective withdrawal embedded State and central duties and taxes, of the benefits will go a long way in ensuring the much not refunded through GST. In fact ROSCTL scheme needed growth of this sector and resultant creation of was a result of recommendations of the govt. additional investment & employment, thereby fulfilling appointed Drawback Committee to study and the dream of the Hon’ble Prime Minister vision in recommend suitable rates for Refund of hidden withdrawal of any of these benefits will have an making India a $5 trillion economy”, he said. and embedded taxes. immense effect on their working capital and for the majority in the MSME sector, it will impact the In his letter to the Government, Chairman AEPC has The Industry has already taken these benefits of capacity to pay wages and salaries of workers indicated that “RoSCTL was announced w.e.f. RoSCTL and MEIS into account in costing with the and employers 07.03.2019 and which was to be in addition to the buyers as also in their tax-planning. Hence,

Liva Accredited Partner Forum studio launched in Jaipur marketing solutions. This is the fourth such studio change in the industry and yet again have proved the at Jaipur after Noida, New York and Tiruppur. same through the launch of this studio which is Technical specifications, uniqueness of the fabric beneficial for Jaipur Cluster," Rajeev Gopal said during and marketing details will be available in wide the inauguration. variety including woven, knitted and flat knitted "Our vision in GEAR has been always to work towards fabrics. Liva's seasonal collection specially designed excellence in buyer engagement, infrastructure and by its in-house designers will also be showcased in product innovation through collaboration. In this the studio to service global buyers. direction we see LAPF studio as a platform for fuelling ditya Birla Group's leading fashion ingredient The studio has been launched in the presence of Rajiv business growth for the Jaipur cluster. We look Abrand Liva, has inaugurated a State-of-the-art Liva Dewan, president, GEAR; Navin Advani, Vice forward for innovations in fabric and Liva seasonal Accredited Partner Forum (LAPF) studio in Jaipur. This President, GEAR; Rajeev Gopal, President, GEAR, collection," Gopal added. studio is in association with Garment Exporters Aditya Birla Group and Manohar Samuel, Senior The collaboration between GEAR and Liva brings Association of Rajasthan (GEAR). The Jaipur studio President, Marketing and Business Development, Birla seamless alignment with global innovation, ensures will display a collection of more than 2000 fabric Cellulose. preference for the cluster's products with global innovations of Viscose, Modal and Excel. "Customer demand from the textile industry is brands and with focus on sustainability credentials. LAPF studios' act as a one-stop customer experience increasing, mandating the companies to step up their Along with this, clear focus on quality and cost will centre for innovation, technical, product and game. We at LIVA have always been the pioneers of be paramount for greater operational efficiency

26 APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 27 Booths selling fast at India, Uzbekistan explore preferential Gartex Texprocess New trade agreement Delhi edition ndia and Uzbekistan recently agreed to conclude Iearly a joint feasibility study to start negotiations for a preferential trade agreement (PTA). This was agreed to during a meeting of Uzbek Foreign Minister Abdulaziz Kamilov and his Indian counterpart S Jaishankar in New Delhi. Both agreed to strengthen cooperation in various fields and development partnerships. Jaishankar reiterated the need for early operationalisation of a $200-mn line of credit extended by India to Uzbekistan for which the Uzbek side is in the process of finalising project details. Kamilov briefed Jaishankar on his country’s efforts to liberalize the economy, create business-friendly conditions and attract foreign investment, according ndia’s most comprehensive show on textile and garment to a report. Both evaluated the initiative of the India-Central Asia Dialogue at the level of Foreign Imanufacturing supply chain is all set for its 6th chapter Ministers with the participation of Afghanistan that was held in Samarkand in January 2019. The next in New Delhi and is inviting exhibitors to block their slots. dialogue will be held in India this year Gearing up for its 6th edition in New Delhi, Gartex Texprocess India is calling all prospective exhibitors to finalise their booths at the show before all good spaces are sold out. After bagging the title of India’s fastest YEIDA gives nod to 64 industries to set up growing show last year, Gartex Texprocess endeavours units at textile hub in UP to be true to this claim by bringing far more exhibitors under a single roof as compared to previous year. The he Yamuna Expressway Industrial show has grown tremendously over the years with the T Development Authority (YEIDA) recently past edition clocking a whopping visitor base of 10,390. approved allotment for 64 industries for an apparel park at Yamuna City in Uttar Every year, Gartex Texprocess India receives terrific Pradesh’s Greater Noida. The hub, planned response from industry stakeholders as they converge across 300 acres, will host 150 textile units. here to showcase their state-of-the-art technology and The allotment is expected by January 10 and equipment, whilst also using this platform effectively for the YEIDA may give possession to the networking. The show boasts of unparalleled range of industries in the next six months. exhibits and live demonstrations that make it much more appealing to serious buyers. The show has a record in Expected to provide employment to more than five lakh people, 60 percent of which would be women, converting interactions into serious business deals, and the park is set to attract investment worth around `5,000 cr in creating the park. The apparel export this is what attracts exhibitors from across the country value from Gautam Budh Nagar District now is around `18,000 cr. After the park is set up, exports from to this exhibition. the district are expected to increase to about `30,000 cr, said Lalit Thukral, President, Noida Apparel Export Cluster (NAEC). He, however, said that the authority needs to give possession to the units at Charting innumerable success stories, Gartex Texprocess the earliest after completing civil infrastructure in the area, like wide roads, sewerage and electrical India has become the country’s most comprehensive connections. The NAEC plans to employ local workforce for the industries and it will also be holding trade show on garment & textile machinery, fabrics, training sessions in neighbouring villages accessories & allied industry. Besides a wide array of innovative exhibits, it also features a string of seminars and workshops facilitating an immersive experience for the entire fraternity. A key highlight of the exhibition is the GRADO by GBTL organises Kasauli Conference Denim Show that provides the much-needed focus to the BTL, the leading manufacturer of highly versatile fabric. Denim has created a special place Polyester-Viscose fabric, organised a for itself in fashion needs of today’s generation, and this G conference to launch myriad new product show brings A-Z of denim together while providing high offerings. The Kasauli Conference was attended visibility to various applications. by retailers from the Northern belt at premium Besides Denim Show, Gartex Texprocess would Kasauli Resort by Piccadilly, between 14th and incorporate some other zones and segments, including 24th December 2019. The conference marked Embroidery Zone, Garmenting & Apparel Machinery, Digitex the launch of 2 new products, namely, the Show, Fabrics & Trims Show and India Laundry Show. Millionaire Collection – inspired by the brand’s Initially, the show began as a platform for garment & textile association as the Official Wardrobe Sponsor manufacturers, but now sees the patronage of various of KBC. And Streeza, a stretchable fabric. Both players of other allied sectors. Representing complete received massive appreciation from the value chain of garmenting and textile manufacturing customers across the nation. process, it covers all segments of the industry including Manish Shukla, CMO of GRADO by GBTL, said, “We are overwhelmed by the response from retailers latest machines, spares & consumables, raw materials, by participating in an outstation conference. This conference has successfully given us a platform to trimmings & embellishments, logistics & packaging not only showcase a new product collection to the retailers, but also to strengthen and foster a solutions, etc. It is an ideal platform for reaching out to relationship between the management and its success partners (dealers and retailers).” Expressing the huge Indian and global garment and textile markets at gratitude, Hansraj Gautam thanks all dealers and retailers for their participation in the conference. He one go. To make the most out of the opportunity, enquire says, “The idea of launching products at a conference is commendable as this provides an opportunity now! Gartex Texprocess India 2020 is scheduled from for the retailers to have a first-hand look at the fabric, strengthening the brand product basket” August 21-23 at Pragati Maidan, New Delhi

28 APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 MUFTI launches its new concept store IIT-Delhi researcher in Ahmedabad develops 100 times cheaper UFTI, one of the leading menswear apparel brands announced the launch of its new 'fabric feel tester' Mconcept store in Ahmedabad. The flagship store, spread across 1500 sq. ft., is located at CG Road and houses the complete range from MUFTI’s latest collections. With a strong esearcher at the Indian Institute of Technology (IIT) Delhi focus on providing progressive fashion to its customers, the brand seeks to further propel Rhas developed a "fabric feel tester" at a cost nearly 100 its goal of becoming a global brand with Indian roots. times cheaper than the ones presently available in market. According to officials, a patent has also been filed for the Spearheading its expansion plans, instrument which has been developed by professor Apurba Das MUFTI seeks to take new directions in and his team with support from the government's Department curating engaging and effective of Science and Technology. consumer experiences. The brand has embarked on a journey to revitalise the The instrument measures the subjective fabric feel perception aesthetics of its standalone stores. and expresses it by an objective numerical value. Fabric feel is a Manifesting the brand’s ethos of being generic term for textile sensations associated with fabrics. "The distinctive, free-spirited and vibrant; existing Kawabata Evaluation System of Fabrics (KESF) system the new store personifies the spirit of used in the clothing industry is very complex and requires four the city Mumbai. different modules. The new instrument will not only measure fabric softness and feel directly but also help in selecting the That Mumbai has been the ‘city of origin’ and ‘core inspiration’ of the brand is testament optimum fabric finish treatment by comparing the feel," a Senior to its deep-rooted relationship with the city. The store’s interior design is defined by IIT-Delhi official said. "The instrument will help check change in iconic visual elements that form the quintessential component of the city’s imagery. fabric feel after chemical or mechanical treatment and thus help Recognized as the pioneer of fostering an alternative choice to our lifestyle, the brand has in developing newer fabrics and finishings with better feel. The internalized the spirit of Mumbai by weaving vivid landmarks of the city into the overarching cost of the new fabric feel tester is around `1.75 lakhs as compared theme of the store. to the cost of complete KESF equipment which is more than `1.5 crore," the official added. Commenting on the launch of the latest concept store, Kamal Khushlani — MD & Founder of MUFTI said, “One of the main goals of our expansion drive has been to create impactful and According to the official, the device finds its usage broadly in dyeing engaging experiences for our consumers. Our new concept store aims to invoke memories of and finishing in textile and apparel industries, weaving industries, the city through a cohesively designed effective visual merchandising. Through our design we garment manufacturing units and testing laboratories. "It will be seek to leave a powerful brand in our customer’s mind.” Beginning with its new concept store helpful for industries who are dealing with the production, evaluation in Ahmedabad, Mufti envisions a fresh approach that promises to enhance the shopping and application of textile fabrics for process, quality and quick experience of the customers decision making," the official said

APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 29 Denim Show to offer Merchandise Exports From India Scheme opportunities galore for continues upto March exhibitors in New Delhi esponding to some of the reports in the media Rregarding discontinuation of MEIS benefits with effect from 1st January, 2020, Sharad Kumar Saraf, President, FIEO said that these reports are not factually correct and possibly refer to withdrawal of additional MEIS benefits of 2 percent on certain exports products for which advance information of their withdrawal was given by DGFT by the Public Notice No.47 dated 7.12.2019. FIEO clarified that MEIS continues till 31st March, 2020 as per the FTP 2015-2020, which is valid till 31st March 2020. However, the additional MEIS of 2 percent given on some products was only for shipment with Let Export Order date upto 31.12.2019. However, such products will continue to be enim Show has been held concurrently at Gartex entitled for normal MEIS benefits as applicable to them prior to the PNs as detailed in Public DTexprocess India from the past two years and now it has Notice No.47 dated 7.12.2019 upto 31st March, 2020. become the largest denim value chain show in the country. President FIEO said that he has been given to understand that the issue of MEIS benefits on Denim Show, one of the key attractions at Gartex Texprocess specified products of Apparel and Made-ups (Chapter 61, 62 and 63) is likely to be resolved soon India, is gearing up for its 2020 edition in New Delhi, where the and thereafter exporters of such products would be eligible for MEIS benefits till 31.12.2019 along entire denim fraternity will converge to network, showcase with RoSCTL benefits. A decision on MEIS benefits for apparel & made-ups for shipment with Let latest technologies and set future trends. It is India’s premier Export Order date on or after 1stJanuary, 2020 is likely to be notified shortly exhibition on entire denim value chain and attracts visitors from across the globe, who come here to delve deep into India’s denim leadership position. The show is held in H&M announced its first global collaboration with Denim Manufacturers' Association (DMA), which helps in bringing the expertise of various industry leaders collaboration with Sabyasachi to a single platform, thus furthering the common goal. The &M recently announced its first global collaboration with Indian label Sabyasachi, owned by show is scheduled to take place from August 21-23, 2020 at Sabyasachi Mukherjee. To be launched on April 16, the collaboration themed ‘Wanderlust’ Pragati Maidan in New Delhi. H will present hand-crafted, eclectic travel pieces for modern global nomads. The collection mixes Being a part of Gartex Texprocess, Denim Show gets much- modern and traditional silhouettes with a nod towards athleisure and glamping. “I am happy to needed visibility even outside the denim industry; it benefits announce the collaboration with H&M, as it gives us the opportunity to spread the Sabyasachi from the massive footfall garnered by the former owing to its aesthetic to a wider audience in India and worldwide. Having done couture for the majority of my status in the industry. Denim Show helps exhibitors connect career, it is very exciting to bring that finesse of craft to ‘ready-to-wear’ and create whimsical and with their target clientele in a truly professional environment. It fluid silhouettes that bring relaxed sophistication to everyday life,” said Mukherjee in a statement. offers matchless possibilities to exhibitors in terms of quality of Sabyasachi, launched in 1999, offers couture, ready to wear, fine jewellery and accessories. The visitors, centrally-located venue, diverse segmentation of designer has five flagship stores across India and has also founded Sabyasachi Art Foundation, a exhibits, presence of top leaders in the fraternity, unique show tribute to his artist mother. A key highlight of this collection will be Indian textile and print highlights to help exhibitors stand out amongst their competitors traditions brought to life by the Sabyasachi Art Foundation, meticulously crafted, embroidery and etc. All of this makes this show a one-of-its-kind in this industry multicultural silhouettes, H&M said. The collection will offer a complete fashion wardrobe for both as it brings together the A to Z of denim under a unified canopy. ladies and men, including accessories. It will be available in all H&M stores in India and selected Today, the application of denim fabric is not only restricted to H&M flagship stores around the world and online on HM.com and Myntra clothing but has also trickled into various other aspects of modern lifestyle. The versatility that denim offers is unmatched, and keeping this in mind, organisers have designed this show in such a way as to offer enormous opportunities to all exhibitors Coimbatore-based textile firm sells retail to showcase their products and interact with their potential division for `81 cr clients. According to DMA, the Indian denim industry currently stands at $3.6 bn, and has been growing at a CAGR of 9 percent oimbatore-based textile firm over the last 5 years. The industry is expected to grow at CAGR C SP Apparels recently announced of 11 percent in the next 5 years. Therefore, a platform like the sale of their retail division. In a Denim Show is the need of the hour to help all stakeholders stock exchange filing, the company collaborate in making this industry globally competitive. said that the sale would happen to SP Retail Brands — an unlisted Denim Show 2020 boasts of some key highlights, namely, Denim public company promoted by the Applications – highlighting rapidly increasing applications of promoter of SP Apparels and other Denim fabrics and textiles; Denim Talks - Comprising a series independent Directors for `81 cr. of talks bringing forth innovation, education & sustainability; “The total consideration of the deal Denim Trends - Aimed at defining future denim trends; and will be `81 cr, which will be settled by SP Retail Brands partly by cash and a portion by way of Denim Walks - Showcasing latest fashion trends in denim compulsorily convertible preference shares of SP Retail Brands Limited. through ramp walk. These highlights offer diverse opportunities to exhibitors to participate in more ways than one and become The cash settlement will be partly made immediate and partly through deferred payment,” the an influencer in this niche industry. Keeping in mind the concern company added in its filing. SP Apparels further added that the decision to sell has been taken around sustainability in denim industry, the organisers are following the announcement on August 13 2019, to hive off its retail division owing to slump in committed to highlight all those players who are taking sale. The company is also involved in the manufacturing, distribution and marketing of the apparel initiatives in this regard, and the show highlights are designed brand Crocodile in India. At the time of filing this report, the stock price of the company stood at in a manner to fulfill this objective `200.8, up by 1.34 percent

30 APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 31 Lüscher’s new JetScreen DX Round makes screen making process greener

üscher is a leading global manufacturer of state-of-the-art imaging systems Estimated time in minutes for 640 mm × 2800 mm screen: Lfor various printing technologies used in the graphic arts and textile industries. Backed by 73 years of experience, Lüscher manufactures many kinds of cutting- Engraving technology Exposure technology edge equipment. Imaging 45 15 JetScreen DX Round, Lüscher's state-of-the-art UV laser diode direct exposing Washing Out 15 system, uses next-generation, long-lasting laser diodes to reduce the time it Drying 30 takes to produce high quality rotary screens with a maximum width of 3500 mm. Total 45 60 The laser diodes enable significant time savings, since they expose screens at a high resolution with high speed. In addition, no consumables are required for Although the numbers of steps are higher for the exposing system compared to JetScreen DX Round, which makes the overall screen making process greener, engraving, the Lüscher DX exposing system actually results in significant time economical and more efficient. saving. This is because once the exposure of one stencil is completed; the exposure Modular Design: JetScreen DX Round has a modular design and can be customised of the second screen can be started immediately. The concurrent running of all to suit special requirements of customers. The standard configuration includes a processes considerably reduces the time required to make a screen (Figure 1). 1200 dpi setting head with 16 individually controllable laser diodes, with an option As a result, at the end of four hours, the number of screens made using Lüscher’s for 32 diodes. The 16 laser diode configuration exposes a screen coated with exposing technology is more than double of the number of screens made using standard emulsion, a repeat of 640 mm, and a width of 2200 mm in less than 10 engraving technology! minutes. For a similar screen, the 32 laser diode configuration reduces the exposure time to 5 minutes. Number of hours Number of screens with Number of screens with laser Currently, the different types of imaging systems available are: masking with ink/ engraving technology exposing technology of Lüscher wax, engraving, and exposing. 1st hour 1 1 2nd hour 2 5 Masking (with ink/wax) Engraving Exposing 3rd hour 4 9 • Resolution limited by • Emulsion is removed • Emulsion is cured 4th hour 6 13 technology •CO2 laser destroys • UV laser cures non- Total 13 28 • Deformation of drops by coating on printing printing area area impact • Printing area is In addition, there are numerous benefits of JetScreen DX Round exposing • Running cost of ink/wax • Exhaust removes washed out technology over the conventional engraving technology: coating particles • Imaging and exposure are not • High output quality done together, hence additional • 1200 dpi resolution ensures round dot with diameter of 25 mm production steps are required • Better quality half tone (or gradient) and raster (or dot matrix) images Exposing technology saves time overall compared to engraving: • Very low energy consumption of less than 1.5 kW • Laser diodes (16 diode or 32 diode configuration) work with constant energy Processes: Engraving technology Exposing (Lüscher DX) technology efficiency Coating and drying ? ? • Plug and expose; easy installation Polymerisation ? × • Easy change of screen by just unlocking one screen Engraving/exposure ? ? • User-friendly software • Due to air pressure inside the screen, screens with dents can also be used Washing × ? Drying × ? A.T.E. Enterprises Private Limited is responsible for the marketing, sales, and service of Lüscher products in India. A.T.E.’s domain expertise coupled with Polymerisation × ? Lüscher’s state-of the-art technology will help textile printers take advantage of Preparation × ? this technology to gain a competitive edge.

Figure 1

32 APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 SU.RE hosts 1st B2B workshop on Sustainable Fashion

he Clothing Manufacturers Association of India T(CMAI) in partnership with IMG Reliance hosted the first SU.RE B2B workshop on Sustainable Supply Chain at IMG Reliance, One BKC in Mumbai. The workshop was a key step towards the Sustainable Resolution (SU.RE) initiative that was launched with 16 of the biggest Indian fashion retail brands at Lakmé Fashion Week in August 2019, supported by Ministry of Textiles and the United Nations in India. Project SU.RE is a commitment by India’s apparel industry to set a sustainable pathway for the Indian fashion industry. The day-long workshop was exclusively conducted for senior supply chain and sustainability across the apparel value chain. C&A Foundation the top brands to partner together and create a representatives from each of the 16 signatory brands. works with change-makers all over the world and resolution to shift the industry to a more sustainable The workshop was driven by the objectives of gives them financial support, expertise, and supply chain. This would be a very crucial first step in discovering trends and innovations for sustainability networks that help accelerate their impact. Global making the world slightly cleaner and slightly better in the apparel value chain globally and in India, Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) addressed issue for the future generations.” connecting and forging new relationships with of sustainability and chemical management in textile Jaspreet Chandok, Head - Lifestyle Businesses, IMG innovative stakeholders in the sustainability sector processing. Setting the roadmap for the future Reliance Ltd said, “Sustainability has always been at and creating a roadmap for SU.RE with short term to Circular Apparel Innovation Factory (CAIF) shared the center of all our objectives and it is a matter of long-term sustainability goals and success metrics. their inputs on goal setting and future course of great privilege for us that an initiative of this magnitude The sessions focused on building a responsible and action for SU.RE. was pioneered at Lakmé Fashion Week. The first viable supply chain in terms of sustainable raw India’s first study on Sustainability is underway by SU.RE workshop is an organic extension of the materials, chemical management, sustainable The Voice of Fashion (www.thevoiceoffashion.com), resolution and we look forward to continued consumption and production, reduction of carbon the online fashion and design magazine. The Positive engagement with brands to help them achieve their footprint & technology; the sessions concluded with a Fashion Survey will study and document consumer SU.RE goals by 2025.” discussion of fashion brand case studies. awareness, communication, commitment and clarity The closing remarks were given by Rahul Mehta and The United Nations Development Programme (UNDP) on sustainability issues as well as Indian fashion Jaspreet Chandok who addressed the forum and addressed building a responsible and viable supply brand’s commitment, choices, solutions, and workshop as a beginning of immense work that will chain. They focused on the restorative and challenges in the implementation of sustainability. be done in the field of sustainable fashion in the years regenerative role of circular economy in fashion and The 16 signatory brands were a part of this survey. to come and expressed belief in the participating addressed the social, economic, and environmental Rahul Mehta, Chief Advisor, CMAI said, “The agenda SU.RE members to be the torchbearers for the other aspects of the 17 SDGs. C&A Foundation spoke about of the first SU.RE workshop was to persuade some of industry stakeholders their initiatives towards ensuring sustainability

APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 33 Hohenstein advances textile sustainability with microfiber analysis

ohenstein has completed the development of its new method for analysing Hmicrofibre shedding from textiles. Using dynamic image analysis, the method quantifies shedding behavior and reveals previously unattainable data with practical implications for material development throughout the supply chain. The new method is the result of four years of research at Hohenstein, published in a PhD thesis by lead researcher Jasmin Haap. The research team developed, refined and validated an analytical method that goes beyond current approaches of measuring the shedded mass to quantify fibre count, length, diameter and shape. NaviColor features a dedicated team of professionals in a highly advanced technological environment to support customers utilising Huntsman’s Textile Further analysis can reveal the distribution of these attributes and even generate Effects innovative chemicals, dyes and digital inks in the United States. separate results for cellulosic fibres (e.g. cotton) and non-cellulosic fibres (e.g. polyester). This analysis is currently available exclusively through Hohenstein. “NaviColor represents a significant investment in our customer experience and will help us enhance how we deliver value to our customers,” said Brook With this level of detail, researchers can now quantify in more detail which types Swinston, Huntsman Textile Effects Commercial Director Americas. of fibre and material constructions contribute most to microfibre release, leading “Huntsman is a recognised global market leader and innovator in textile dyes, to informed decisions in development of more sustainable textiles that shed less. chemicals and digital inks. This approach enables us to be closer to our Synthetic microfibres are tiny pieces of plastic released into water during customers, deliver value and react with more agility.” mechanical stress, particularly washing. Wastewater containing microfibres NaviColor is the latest deployment of Xenon arc’s innovative xa-Direct model that eventually flows through sewage into larger bodies of water. Along the way, helps the world’s preeminent manufacturing companies reach, grow and more effectively synthetic microfibres attract harmful substances and pollutants from the service the needs of their customer bases. Leveraging its domain expertise of the environment, harming sea life and entering the food chains of larger fish marketplace, combined with extensive voice of the customer research and leading- and humans. edge technology platform, the xa-Direct model delivers enhanced customer intimacy, Dynamic image analysis of wastewater is non-destructive, allowing additional valuable insights and improved customer service levels. tests, such as filtration, to be performed for further analysis. Filtration, the most “We are excited to partner with Huntsman Textile Effects,” said Mica Zuniga, Vice common method to date, involves filtering the wastewater from textile laundering, President of Strategic Growth for Xenon arc. “Together, we have created a thoughtful then weighing the remaining particles. In November 2019, Hohenstein joined the and complete offering focused on delivering best-in-class service, and technical Microfibre Consortium as a contributing research member. support to valued customers by representing Huntsman Textile Effect’s market- Huntsman and Xenon arc formation of NaviColor leading products.” Huntsman Textile Effects is the leading global provider of high- quality dyes, chemicals and digital inks to the textile and related industries. Huntsman Textile Effects and Xenon arc has announced formation of NaviColor, a dedicated marketing channel to service unique needs of select customers in the Established in 2010, Xenon arc is a data-driven marketing and sales company, United States textiles and apparel industry. NaviColor is a business specifically focused on enhancing the way materials producers engage with their SMB designed to meet the needs of select Huntsman Textile Effects customers and to customers and segments. Xenon arc’s xa-Direct model specialises in building further expand the growing customer base. private label, direct-to-market teams

34 APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 35 With BREXIT to take time Start FTA negotiations with EU

fter the sweeping election victory of British Prime AMinister Boris Johnson, what comes uppermost New Delhi should first step up in the minds of those in authority in New Delhi is the efforts to conclude the proposed future economic and trade relations between the two countries. Yes, there is a possibility of New Delhi long- pending Broad-Based Trade forging a trade agreement with the UK post BREXIT. and Investment Agreement (BITA) The legislation introduced by Johnson in Parliament with the EU. It is a must to fend off for the purpose got cleared easily, setting the UK on competition and be on par with course to leave the European Union (EU) on January Least Developed Countries (LDCs) 31, 2020, as planned. Beginning February 1, EU and and Pakistan in respect of duty free British officials will engage in intense regotiations on S.VENKITACHALAM the future trade relations between the divorcing access of textiles and garments in is a senior economic partners. There is a transition period until the end of the EU. Simultaneously, EUs 2020 in which the UK will continue to follow the EU specialised textiles products will journalist with more rules. Johnson is unlikely to seek an extension. The also be able to enter the Indian British Government will have to decide by July 1, if it than 40 years of market duty free. experience, covering wants to postpone the December 21, 2020 deadline. Against this background, New Delhi should first step Industry, Commerce & up efforts to conclude the proposed long- pending duties applied by the EU on textiles products. With Textile Ministries. In Broad-Based Trade and Investment Agreement (BITA) the deduction, ready made garments get charged at this article the author with the EU. It is a must to fend off competition and 9.6 percent against 12 percent levied before. be on par with Least Developed Countries (LDCs) and Bangladesh also receives duty free access in the EU. discusses how post Pakistan in respect of duty free access of textiles and The GSP benefits are also made available to Turkey Brexit, India hopes high garments in the EU. Simultaneously, EUs specialised (an EU member) which also enjoys logistic advantage textiles products will also be able to enter the Indian due to proximity to the EU. Therefore, the EU GSP to enter EU market market duty free. policy is discriminatory. for duty free entry It is to be noted that a trade deal with the UK bristles Indian fabrics to the EU attract an 8 percent duty, of textiles. with several problems. There are reports that Ireland while yarn exports are charged a 4 percent duty. In and Scotland may go out of the UK and stay with the the US, India’s apparel exports attract an average EU. In that event, New Delhi will have to sign a third duty of 10.2 percent while nil rates are applied on agreement with these two nations. imports from Bangledesh and Ethiopia in the EU and zero duty on imports from Ethiopia in the US. Another serious issue is whether the UK will follow the same policy of the EU with regard to LDCs. If it As reported in these columns earlier, the selective does so, it is good news for India which can hope to preferential duty free access has resulted in India enter the EU market for duty free entry of cotton losing out 37 fabrics items to Pakistan on account of textiles. Out of the total cotton textiles imported into zero duty access to that country by the EU. In China, the EU, the UK alone accounts for 61 percent. Again Indian fabrics are charged at 8.5 percent duty, while nearly 25 percent of India’s textiles and clothing no duty is levied on the same item entering from exports are destined to the UK. Therefore, after Pakistan. New Delhi can gain by negotiations for tariff BREXIT, the UK offers a huge opportunity for export of concessions with China for grey fabrics under the cotton textile and any prefirenteal arrangement with Regional Comprehensive Economic Partnership the UK could help India. Agreement (RCEP) as Pakistan has a 80 percent share of the market and India has two percent share. Negotiations between India and the 28 member EU have been on since 2007 but have got stalled on issues It is known that Turkey has a well-established textiles such as import of automobiles and spirits intellactual and apparel industry. It is also a good market for fabrics, property rights etc. However, the latest reports especially the fine and denim type from India, Istanbal, suggest that New Delhi has indicated “flexbility” in however has levied, as a protectionist measure, reducing import duties on wines and spirits and additional duties on Indian fabrics. With this, the automobiles as part of BITA. These were the two minimum duty stands at 1.25 dollar per kg and the contintious issues where India was unwilling to lower maximum at $4.25 per kg tariff. the import duties resulting in a stalemate. Efforts Apart from LDCs, India also will have to compete have started with the India flagging the issue with with countries having regional trade agreements German Chancellor Angela Merkal and the Commerce with the US such as Honduras, Dominican Republic Minister Piyush Goyal following it up with the EU Trade and others which enjoy duty free access in the US Commissioner, Phil Hogon, recently. The possibility and the EU. The result India has to content with high of the BITA going through has become bright now. duties. Then, there are small free Trade Agreements Pakistan receives duty free treatment under EU’s GSP (FTAs) being signed among WTO members. This plus scheme. India does not receive such a has limited trade opportunities outside WTO. A new dispensation, but gets a 20 percent deduction on the bilateral trade deal between EU and South Africa is

36 APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 already in place. The US also had deals in the works with South Korea and Combodia, but they have been stalled in the congress. India now has a rade deficit with EU (In $Bn) Change India is one of the largest textiles manufacturing countries after China. It holds 2017-18 enormous potential to converts itself into a textiles manufacturing hub for the 53.6 Exports 6.7%

entire world. Increasing penetration of organised retail and disposable income on 2018-19 57.2 ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ the rise make the future of the Indian textiles industry look promising. ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ 47.9 Imports 21.9%

However, the industry at present also facing several other issues like non-supportive 58.4 ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ government policies, tax structure, rising interest rates, increasing labour wages ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ and lack of skilled manpower, which are detrimental to the industry’s growth on 5.7 Trade Nagative trade balance indicates deficit the export front too, the sector is facing high trade barriers compared to other Balance -1.2 Source: Commerce dept. competing countries such as Bangladesh, Vietnam and Pakistan in key markets such as the US and the EU. Segment wise Strength & Weakness on India’s T&A sector The government has set a $350 bn target for the textiles and apparel market. To achieve this, outgoing CITI Chairman, Sanjoy K Jain suggests that there is need for Strength Weakness the quality, innovation, technology and lead time of the manufacturers to be aligned Viscose Yarn, Blended Yarn, in a manner to bring growth and stability to the industry. Recently, China has shifted Spun Yarn Cotton & Cotton Blended Yarn Spandex Yarn and Specialty Yarn its focus from exports to the domestic market. This has opened space for India to take up its share and strengthern its position in the global textiles chain. For this, the Polyester Texturized Yarn and Nylon, High Tenacity Yarn, Fillament industry requires economies of scale in production. Countries ranging from China to Partially Oriented Yarn Functional Filament Yarn Bangladesh have developed large production units, whereas in India, the industry is Laminated & Coated Fabric, still dominated by smaller units, which lack economies of scale. This under scores Fabric Woven - Cotton & Blended the urgent need for supportive measures from both the Central and State Governments. Knits & Non Wovens Jain wants the government to initiate urgent measures to safeguard the interests Women’s Suits & Dresses, Intimate Wear, Sportswear, of the textiles and clothing sector. First a one year moratorium on loan repayment Apparel Men’s Shirts, Babies’ Cotton Outerwear & Winter Wear and to revive it from the current crisis on a fast track mode to enable it to achieve its Garments and T-shirt Western suits actial potential and advise banks to not coerce companies by adhoc increase in interest rates without any reason. Second, grant of refund of State, Central taxes spinning industry at internationally competitive prices Fifth negotiations should and Levies (ROSCTL) to the yarn and fabric segments to help the textiles industry be started with China to get duty free access to cotton textiles as it has been boost its export competitiveness in the global market. giving to Vietnam, Pakistan, indonesia and Cambodia, Sixth, abundent raw Third, interest rates should be made available at internationally competitive prices. materials should be made available to the industry at internationally compettive If that is not possible, three percent. Interest Equalisation Scheme (IES) may be prices. Finally, the government must take steps to raise the import duty on man- given to cotton yarn exports. Fourth, power should be made available to the made fibre spun yarn, from 5 percent to 10 percent

APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 37 Sensitive® Fabrics by Eurojersey presents a new collection for SS’21

ensitive® Fabrics by Eurojersey presents a new collection for SS’21 Scalled “conscious tech”. A new feeling, a new sensation of rediscovered wellbeing packed with optimism and pronounced spontaneity for multifunctional fabrics endowed with sustainable and innovative technical performances. Revelation - An exotic theme makes a foray into tradition to reveal an unmistakable style made up of asymmetric checks and irregular stripes which clearly recall madras prints. The predominant colour palette expressed in warm shades and languid colours triggers new and unique visual sensations recalling the nuances of India. The surfaces of Sensitive® Fabrics are transformed into dense emotions thanks to the mingling of unusual woven textures with spicy nuances and the depth of glazed tones. Vibration - Prints onto of Sensitive® Fabrics that promote a new creative freedom in which traditional formulas break down to make space for a modernist elegance. An aesthetic philosophy that puts the accent on expressed in a palette of bright primary colours. New interpretations patterns of Caribbean inspiration and saturated colours, in a harmony of tinged with nostalgia and a taste for a retro atmosphere spring to life in a rediscovered energy which is both soothing and decorative. The ideal new modernity, whose style is intentionally preppy, thanks to delicate fabrics for an easy going, light-hearted look in a style that is fun and paisley prints. young at heart: the perfect bourgeois chic outfit for leisure, casual and Osmosis - Images of differing intensity mix, match and contaminate each formal wear. other in a dialogue between artistic inspiration and visionary softness, while Pajama Party - A comfort-chic trend that plays a protagonist role in the conferring a touch of modernity to primary elements and succumbing to positive mood of everyday wear. A more glamorous ready-to-wear style visions and intuitions in a magical interplay sparked by aesthetic and creative makes recourse to the land of dreams to impose pajama-style prints as a intensity. Patterns in fluid tones which define the primary essence of prints, must-have. Sensitive® Fabrics enriches its offering with pared-down lines reinterpreting denim with intense washed effects

Epson launches 1st industrial direct-to-garment printer

pson recently launched its first industrial direct- delivering industrial quality output at impressive Eto-garment printer, SureColor F3070 at the production speeds. Epson UltraChrome DG inks Impressions expo in California. The SureColor F3070 are durable, vibrant and safe, with outstanding is Epson’s first direct-to-garment printer to leverage colour performance, plus equal pricing for colour dual printhead technology and a bulk ink pack system, and white inks. providing remarkably low ink cost and minimised The printer has an automatic printhead adjustment, waste compared to Epson cartridge systems. optimised for garment thickness for improved print Designed to provide low total cost of ownership quality without user intervention. It also has low (TCO) and reliability for exceptional performance and maintenance time and cost with dedicated cleaning savings in high-production print shop environments, solution channels and fabric head wiper system. It the printer touts all new automatic garment height has an updated Epson garment creator software, adjustment and easy user maintenance features to available for macOS and Windows, includes cost increase production and reduce downtime for estimator, text tools, hot folders, and automation garment print shops creating custom apparel, the SDK. It has an entirely purpose-built system featuring company said. optimal print quality without user interference, and Epson’s PrecisionCore printhead, Epson UltraChrome DG ink system and robust hardware. Ideal for digitally printing custom garments on easily switches between thin T-shirts and thick variety of fabric types including cotton, linen and sweatshirts with less downtime between “The printed textile market is seeing tremendous rayon, the SureColor F3070 is designed to meet the garments. Built for reliability, the SureColor F3070 growth, complemented by new printing technology increasing market demand for unique clothing driven features an ultra-durable linear rail system and CNC innovation. We are committed to driving the digital by the millennial population in the US. The printer milled print carriage, designed for years of textile market and excited to expand Epson's award- leverages a new dual 2.6-inch PrecisionCore production, and features user serviceable parts, winning product line to deliver our first industrial printhead for high-quality output at production including printheads, and low maintenance time direct-to-garment printer for high-production print speeds with true one-pass printing for both colour ideal for high production print on-demand service shops. Designed for mid-to-large size garment and white ink. Coupled with the first bulk ink system providers, fulfilment houses and in-house print on- printers looking for a high-production, cost-effective integrated into an Epson direct-to-garment printer, demand production. equipment, the SureColor F3070 can produce a full- it is capable of housing 1.5 litres per colour and 3.0 Delivering high image quality, productivity and size shirt in about a minute, allowing shops to print litres of white ink for less frequent refilling, lower reliability in an affordable, highly intuitive design, hundreds of shirts per day,” Tim Check, Senior operating costs, and less waste. the SureColor F3070 offers advanced features for Product Manager, professional imaging, Epson America said First ever automatic printhead height adjustment the garment printing industry. It comes with dual is set based on garment thickness and texture for 10-channel printheads with 16,000 nozzles

38 APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 39 TEXPROCIL celebrates members achievements at Annual Awards

EXPROCIL, the first Export Promotion Council set up in India in the year 1954, Tand responsible for promoting exports of cotton textile celebrated the achievements of its member exporters at the Annual Awards function held at the ITC Hotel Grand, Mumbai recently. Every year the Council recognizes the role played by exporters by giving out awards in different categories. This year the Council distributed fifty eight awards in thirty two different categories, including the coveted Platinum trophy for the highest global exports. Recognising the role played by MSME units in India and given that the growth of MSMEs is one of the many thrust areas of the government, TEXPROCIL also added an Award for the highest employment generated by MSME units this year. Smriti Zubin Irani, Hon’ble Minister of Textiles and Women and Child Development, was the Chief Guest at the event. While congratulating the Award winners, Dr KV Srinivasan, Chairman, TEXPROCIL in his opening remarks stated that the exports of textiles & clothing were severely affected by the global situations like the trade conflict of US with China, EU’s struggle with Brexit, the growing geo-political The Chief Guest, Smriti Zubin Irani then distributed the TEXPROCIL Awards. In her tensions in the Middle East and the removal of GSP benefits to India by US. address, the Hon’ble Minister said that with the growth of textile industry lies the growth of India and also thanked SBI for being part of the ceremony and supporting In the backdrop of these challenges the Chairman thanked the government for the industry as bankers play an important role in textile and clothing exports. She taking the initiative in recognising the incidence of State and Central Tax levies said that the textile industry has made India proud through its achievements only and their impact on the competitiveness of exported textile goods by announcing because of the commitment and dedication of the current and earlier generations. the new Scheme of the Remission of Duties or Taxes on Export Products i.e. RoDTEP, which he hoped will address the issues of duties and taxes suffered by the The Hon’ble Minister was also in agreement with the many issues pointed out by entire value chain. the Chairman TEXPROCIL in his welcome address. Coming to the cotton procurement and auction process, the Minister promised speedy resolutions in The Chairman also lauded the Hon’ble Minister for her personal efforts to get the honoring commitments and selling the fibre at competitive prices rather than Gazette Notification of March 7, 2019, announcing RoSCTL for Garments & Made- being purchased and then stocked by CCI. ups implemented vide Notification dated 14 January 2020. Irani also assured the industry that she will continue to pursue in bringing the hank Dr Srinivasan also requested the Hon’ble Minister to consider the cotton textiles yarn obligation down further from the current percentage of production. The Minister sector as a value chain in continuum mentioning that any attempt to selectively also mentioned that in the new Mission on Cotton she will explore ways of grant incentives to certain segments of the value chain leads to unintended replicating the success of CDRA which is presently benefiting about 170,000 distortions and consequences. A case in point is the systematic exclusion of farmers. She said that the industry should make farmers PARTNERS and along cotton yarn from the package of incentives since 2014, he added. He further with gainful employment for women the sector should look at quadrupling its reiterated that Cotton yarn also bears the same incidence of State and Central exports and assured that the Ministry will also stand shoulder to shoulder with levies as in the case of made ups and garments. He said that cotton yarn should the industry in these efforts. be covered under the RoSCTL scheme and the MEIS and should also be covered under the 3 percent Interest Equalization scheme. Irani requested the Chairman TEXPROCIL to handhold small companies and take them along so that they may reach the level of a medium sized companies. Finally The Chairman finally concluded by thanking the Hon’ble Minister for her personal appreciating the efforts of TEXPROCIL for leading from the front she requested CCI, intervention in various matters relating to the progress and growth of the industry. Texprocil and the Skill Development Ministry to come together and prepare a The General Manager (SME), State Bank of India S Kalyanram then addressed the paper on mechanizing the cotton picking methods to reduce contamination and gathering on the significance and importance of the relationship between the assured the full support of the Ministry of Textiles towards this effort. Manoj banks and the exporters and highlighted the facilities provided for MSMEs. Patodia, Vice Chairman of TEXPROCIL then proposed a vote of thanks

40 APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 ITME Society brings together women entrepreneurs from 4 African nations

3-day programme from December 19-21 commencing with B2B meetings for Tembo, Deputy Executive Director, International Trade Centre, UN, as the Guest of Aexclusive delegation of women entrepreneurs from 4 African nations looking Honour; and Pandey as special guest. A Stamp commemorating 4 decades of at sourcing from India, kick started celebrations for India ITME Society. The event ‘Spearheading Innovation with Commitment to Quality” was released by Pandey was attended by 52 Indian companies with 462 meetings during the day including in presence of Sathasivam and Tembo. interaction with Indian institutes and associations. India ITME Society extended the mood of celebration for both young and old, International Trade Centre (ITC), organised this first-time initiative of bringing an all across the social and business segments. Certificate of merit and a cash prize of women delegation to India in partnership with India ITME Society. For the Society, $1500 (Rs. 1 lakh) were awarded to the winners of the contests organised by India completing its 40th year of service, this activity was a step towards supporting ITME Society in various categories. India ITME Society acknowledged the women empowerment by encouraging entrepreneurship in textile sector. contributions and expressed gratitude to the stalwarts of the industry who mentored growth of India ITME Society over the last four decades. Apart from business, this first-time overseas delegation was also treated to a special heritage walk of GPO organised and initiated by Swati Pandey, The evening brought together people from different walks of life, countries and Postmaster General, Government of India. Among the activities offered to the culture, in knowledge, in business, in comradeship concluding the celebrations betterment of the industry and for enhancing the quality of education in textile with live musical performance ‘Pristine Harmonies’ engineering, a special technical session was organised by India ITME Society. The technical presentation on ‘Digitization and sustainability - Two drivers for the textile industry’ by Dr. Ing Yves-Simon Gloy, adjunct professor in Clemson University & RWTH Aachen Institute of Textile Technology, Germany was well- received by the academic community, attended by 180+ faculty & students from various institutes like, VJTI, ICT, DKTE, SNDT, NIFT, Kushal Institute, Bangladesh Textile Institute etc. Dr. Professor Josphat Igadwa Mwasigi, MOI University, Kenya, alumni of PSG College of Engineering, Coimbatore also made presentation and discussed collaboration with institutes paving way for new partnership in sharing knowledge between India and Kenya. This also shall create avenue for students to explore placement opportunities with multinational companies functioning in Africa, said ITME society. India ITME Society is not only about textile and textile engineering, but functions as a culturally conscious organisation promoting all aspect of India as a traditionally rich nation. To showcase rich textile heritage captured in our postal stamps, India ITME Society organised philately exhibition for the invited guests from pan India and across the globe. Pandey made a scintillating presentation on ‘History of Indian Postal Service’, educating audience about the services rendered by the Indian Postal Department even in the toughest of the tough conditions and how India Post plays a part not only in our heritage but also in our day to day lives even in today’s digital times. Every invited guest, whether from India or overseas had a takeaway from India ITME Society’s 40th year programme. The various textile and textile engineering associations renewed their collaboration with India ITME Society through MOUs and also shared their experiences, suggestions and way forward to improve trade relations with their respective countries and organisations in a highly interactive Global Connect session in the afternoon session. The panel of speakers consisted of industry leaders from India and across the globe. The evening celebrations continued into a glittering programme which was attended by dignitaries, diplomatic missions, government officials, industry stalwarts, international & domestic media, presided over by P Sathasivam, Former Chief Justice of India & Former Governor of Kerala, as the Chief Guest; Dorothy

APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 41 Apparel exports in FY 2019 decreases but import increases

CMAl’s Apparel Index aims to set a benchmark for the entire domestic apparel industry and helps brands in taking informed business decisions. For investors, industry players, stakeholders and policy makers, the index is a useful tool offering concrete and credible information and is an excellent source for assessing the performance of the industry. The Index is analysed on assessing the performance on four parameters: Sales turnover, sell through (percentage of fresh stocks sold), number of days of inventory holding, and investments (signifying future confidence) in brand development and brand building.

n 2019, the apparel IIP showed an upward trend for the first three months, Apparel Index of Industrial Production (IIP) Update Iafter which it declined significantly to a value of 138 in October. Although, 190 the IIP recovered a bit in July, it continued to decline for the remaining 180 175 months. The apparel CPI has remained fairly constant in 2019 at an average 171 170 168 167 170 164 164 value of 149. The apparel exports in FY 19 stood at $16,156 mn, showing a 164 162 161 160 162 156 156 157 decrease of 3 percent from that in FY 18. In FY 20 (Apr-Nov), the apparel 152 149 147 150 145 147 146 exports showed a minute increase of 1 percent as compared to that in FY 145 142 144 138 137 141 141 19 (Apr-Nov). The apparel exports to the largest market USA increased by 6 140 135 134 138 percent, while those to Saudi Arab and Nigeria increased by 47 percent and 130 121 119 118 68 percent, respectively. However, the apparel exports to other major 120 markets declined. 110 106 The apparel imports in FY 19 stood at $1,106 mn, showing a significant 100 increase of 43 percent from that in FY 18. In FY 20 (Apr-Nov), the apparel imports showed an increase of 8 percent as compared to that in FY 19 (Apr- Nov). Apparel imports from Bangladesh, the largest apparel exporter to 2017 2018 2019 India, has increased by 13 percent in Apr-Nov 2019 as compared to that in Apr-Nov 2018. India’s imports from China have also increased by 11 percent. Data Source: Ministry of Statistics & Programme Implementation (MoSPI) Analysis of financial filings of select apparel manufacturers and fashion Apparel Consumer Price Index (CPI) Update brands & retailers for Q2 FY 2020 over Q2 FY 2019 highlights the following: • Most of the companies have shown an increase in their operating revenue 150 150 149 149 149 149 148 148 149 149 148 148 148 148 147 148 147 • The fashion brands & retailers have shown an improvement in their Operating 146 147 145 146 Profit Margin (OPM) with V2 Retail’s OPM showing a significant improvement 144 144 144 143 143 from -18.1 percent in Q2 FY 2019 to 2.5 percent in Q2 FY 2020 141 142 140 139 • Majority of the apparel manufacturers have shown a decline in their OPM. 140 139 137 138 138 However, Celebrity Fashion has shown a significant improvement in its 137 137 OPM from 4.5 percent in Q2 FY 2019 to 32.4 percent in Q2 FY 2020

Apparel Index of Industrial Production (IIP) Update 130 • In 2019, the apparel IIP showed an upward trend for the first three months, after which it declined significantly to a value of 138 in October • Although, the IIP recovered a bit in July, it continued to decline for the 2017 2018 2019 remaining months Data Source: Ministry of Stascs & Programme Implementaon (MoSPI)

42 APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 Apparel Consumer Price Index (CPI) Update Apparel Imports Update • The apparel CPI has remained fairly constant in 2019 at an average value • The apparel imports in FY 19 stood at $1,106 mn, showing a significant of 149 increase of 43 percent from that in FY 18 • As compared to 2018, the CPI has not shown any significant inflation • In FY 20 (Apr-Nov), the apparel imports showed an increase of8 percent as compared to that in FY 19 (Apr-Nov) Apparel Exports Update • The apparel exports in FY 19 stood at $16,156 mn, showing a decrease of Country wise Apparel Imports Update 3 percent from that in FY 18 • Apparel imports from Bangladesh, the largest apparel exporter to India, • In FY 20 (Apr-Nov), the apparel exports showed a minute increase of 1 has increased by 13 percent in Apr-Nov FY 20 as compared to that in Apr- percent as compared to that in FY 19 (Apr-Nov) Nov FY 19 • India has also reported an increase of 11 percent in its apparel imports Country wise Apparel Exports Update from China • The apparel exports to the largest market USA increased by 6 percent in • India’s apparel imports from Sri Lanka have shown a significant decline of Apr-Nov FY 20 as compared to that in Apr-Nov FY 19 38 percent • The apparel exports to Saudi Arab and Nigeria also increased by 47 percent and 68 percent, respectively during the same period Major Supplying Nations • However, the apparel exports to other major markets declined, especially • In FY 19, Bangladesh surpassed China to become the largest supplier of to Germany apparel to India with a share of 33 percent in India’s apparel imports. This share has increased to 34 percent in FY 20 (Apr-Nov) Major Export Markets • China’s share in India’s imports has reduced from 38 percent in FY 18 to • The share of India’s largest export market, USA, has increased by 3 percent 27 percent in FY 19 in FY 19 as compared to that in FY 18. This share has further increased to • The share of Hong Kong is increasing, while those of Spain and Turkey 27 percent in FY 20 (Apr-Nov) are decreasing continuously • On the contrary, the share of UAE has reduced by 5 percent in FY19 Data Source: DGCI&S

APPAREL EXPORTS UPDATE COUNTRY WISE APPAREL EXPORTS UPDATE In US$ YoY YoY MoM In US$ FY 20 FY 19 % Million FY 18 FY 19 Change FY 20 Change Change Million FY 18 FY 19 (Apr-Nov) (Apr-Nov) Change Growth April 1,750 1,352 -23% 1,409 4% -18% USA 3,865 4,166 2,719 2,565 154 6% May 1,607 1,339 -17% 1,530 14% 9% UAE 2,817 1,991 1,102 1,253 -151 -12% June 1,550 1,359 -12% 1,233 -9% -19% UK 1,718 1,606 999 1,009 -10 -1% July 1,276 1,275 0% 1,366 7% 11% Germany 1,179 1,144 590 710 -120 -17% August 1,338 1,293 -3% 1,262 -2% -8% Spain 845 776 471 483 -12 -2% September 1,663 1,105 -34% 1,081 -2% -14% France 764 738 416 447 -31 -7% October 830 1,132 36% 1,109 -2% 3% Saudi Arab 413 409 345 234 111 47% November 1,037 1,131 9% 1,059 -6% -5% Netherlands 450 472 268 289 -21 -7% December 1,337 1,377 3% Italy 396 416 207 239 -32 -13% January 1,397 1,528 9% February 1,442 1,546 7% Nigeria 143 220 193 115 78 68% March 1,4938 1,718 -88% Others 4,131 4,218 2,738 2,643 95 4% Total 16,721 16,156 -3% 10,048 1% Total 16,721 16,156 10,048 9,987 61 1%

Major Export Markets

FY 18 FY 19 FY 20 (Apr- Nov)

USA USA Others 23% Others USA Others Nigeria 27% Nigeria 25% Nigeria 26% 26% 27% Italy 2% 1% 1% 2% Italy Italy Netherlands 3% UAE UAE 2% UAE 3% Netherlands 17% 12% Netherlands 11% 3% Saudi Arab Saudi Arab UK 3% Saudi Arab UK France UK 2% 2% 10% 3% 10% 5% 10% France France Spain Germany Spain Germany Spain Germany 5% 4% 5% 7% 5% 7% 5% 6%

APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 43 Data Source: DGCI&S

Data Source: DGCI&S APPAREL IMPORTS UPDATE COUNTRY WISE APPAREL IMPORTS UPDATE In US$ YoY YoY MoM In US$ FY 20 FY 19 % Million FY 18 FY 19 Change FY 20 Change Change Million FY 18 FY 19 (Apr-Nov) (Apr-Nov) Change Growth April 44 56 27% 68 21% -22% USA 3,865 4,166 2,719 2,565 154 6% May 45 67 49% 85 27% 25% Bangladesh 201 365 271 240 31 13% June 50 73 46% 78 7% -9% China 295 302 245 220 25 11% July 56 101 80% 109 8% 40% Spain 76 100 63 65 -2 -3% August 79 131 66% 127 -3% 16% Hong Kong 17 49 49 31 18 58% September 73 113 55% 117 4% -7% Sri Lanka 40 85 34 55 -21 -38% October 64 110 72% 112 2% -4% Vietnam 22 30 27 19 8 42% November 62 94 52% 104 11% -7% Cambodia 16 21 12 14 -2 -14% December 73 86 18% Italy 20 21 12 12 0 0% January 72 101 40% Turkey 16 19 10 11 -1 -9% February 74 87 18% Indonesia 6 10 9 7 2 29% March 818 87 -89% Others 64 104 70 71 -1 -1% Total 773 1,106 43% 802 8% Total 773 1,106 802 745 57 8%

Major Supplying Nations

FY 18 FY 19 FY20 (Apr-Nov)

Indonesia Indonesia Indonesia Turkey Italy Turkey Italy 1% 1% Italy Turkey1% 1% 3% 2% Cambodia 1% Cambodia Others Cambodia 2% 2% Others Others 2% 2% 8% 2% 9% Vietnam 9% Vietnam Bangladesh Vietnam Sri Lanka 3% Sri Lanka 3% 26% 3% Sri Lanka Bangladesh 4% Bangladesh 5% 8% 33% Hong Kong 34% Hong Kong 6% 2% Hong Kong Spain Spain 4% 10% Spain 8% 9% China China 38% China 27% 31%

FINANCIAL HEALTH OF SELECT BRANDS, RETAILERS AND MANUFACTURERS Revenue from Operations (Rs. Crores) Operating Profit Margin Company FY FY Q2 Q1 Q2 FY FY Q2 Q1 Q2 2018 2019 FY 2019 FY 2020 FY 2020 FY 2018 2019 FY 2019 FY 2020 FY 2020 Aditya Birla Fashion & Lifestyle 7,181 8,118 2,007 2,065 2,297 4.6% 5.3% 5.6% 11.5% 11.2% Fashion & Future Lifestyle Fashions 4,219 5,377 1,222 1,496 1,458 7.2% 7.4% 6.9% 12.9% 12.1% Lifestyle Brands and Shoppers Stop 3,591 3,481 864 832 845 3.9% 7.4% 6.2% 11.1% 12.8% Retailers Trent 2,066 2,532 616 767 818 10.3% 9.3% 9.9% 18.3% 14.2% V-Mart Retail 1,222 1,434 262 453 314 11.1% 8.9% -1.1% 10.6% -0.2% V2 Retail 559 748 156 202 151 9.7% 3.9% -18.1% 10.1% 2.5% Page Industries 2,552 2,852 691 835 775 21.4% 22.3% 21.6% 22.0% 18.9%

Apparel Gokaldas Export 1,026 1,173 294 341 362 -1.2% 3.8% 1.8% 14.1% 4.6% Manufac- Pearl Global 711 840 215 191 229 2.8% 5.3% 2.2% 5.5% 2.7% turers SP Apparels 628 778 177 205 233 14.6% 16.4% 14.3% 8.2% 12.7% Kitex Garments 557 607 168 146 196 23.5% 26.0% 28.7% 20.6% 25.6% Kamadgiri Fashion Limited 332 319 83 69 87 4.5% 3.7% 3.8% 1.8% 2.3% Celebrity Fashion 204 231 58 52 61 3.0% 3.9% 4.5% 2.9% 32.4% Bang Overseas 169 154 48 22 25 3.5% 2.7% 6.6% 38.2% -0.4%

Note: Only major listed exclusive fashion & lifestyle retailers Data Source: Bombay Stock Exchange and apparel manufacturers are considered

44 APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 45 46 APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 47 48 APPAREL VIEWS // JANUARYDECEMBER 2020 2019

50 APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 51 52 APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 53 54 APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 55 56 APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 57 58 APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 59 GTE New Delhi Begins 2020 on a high note for industry

0th edition of Garment Technology Expo (GTE The four-day expo hosted around 16,000 trade visitors 2020), one of India’s largest events dedicated including exporters and domestic manufacturers from 3to apparel & knitting technology was held “This 30th edition of GTE had various parts of India &neighbouring countries like recently at NSIC Exhibition Complex, Okhla, New Delhi. better improved infrastructure. Bangladesh, Nepal, Sri Lanka, & Pakistan etc. The four-day show, which ran from January 10-13, “It’s really proud for us in hosting the 30th edition of 2020, celebrated GTE’s 20 years of service in the It’s bigger and better in terms, GTE. The show has witnessed participation from all industry and witnessed a rich mix of technologies on when compared to previous over the country and foreign principals. As always garment stitching and processing on display from due to our extensive marketing, robust campaigning around 800 brands and companies. editions. This edition, there were many new direct and past deliveries, we had more than 16,000 The show was inaugurated with traditional lamp lighting visitors from all over India, Bangladesh, Nepal, Sri ceremony by Chief Guest Ajit B Chavan, Secretary participations from foreign Lanka, Pakistan, Myanmar and African region,” says Textile Committee, Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India; companies and a lot of new Ricky Sahni, Joint Managing Director at Garment HKL Magu, Ex-Chairman, Apparel Export Promotion Technology Expo. Council; Rajiv Dewan, President, Garment Exporters entrants from sewing industry. Adding to this Ambrish Chopra, Director, Garment Association of Rajasthan; Vinod Thapar, President, Everybody who matters in the Technology Expo said, “This 30th edition of GTE had Knitwear & Textile Club Ludhiana; Inderjit S Sahni, CMD, better improved infrastructure. It’s bigger and better Garment Technology Expo; Anil Anand of HCA and industry had fairly large in terms, when compared to previous editions. This Sunder Belani of Ramsons in the presence of leading independent booths.” edition, there were many new direct participations players from the industry. from foreign companies and a lot of new entrants from This is Indian subcontinent’s largest show for apparel sewing industry. Everybody who matters in the industry technology, with unparalleled representation from all Magnum, Mehala, Ramsons, Juki, Brother, Pegasus, had fairly large independent booths.” segments of the sector. The B2B Expo provided a Tukatech, EH Turel, Baba Textiles, Richpeace, INL The show this edition received encouraging reactions single point meeting ground for the garment International, Zoje Sewing Machines Co. Ltd, Dhaval from the exhibitors. Most of participants were positive manufacturers and technology providers to discuss, Colour Chem, Narinder International, Colorjet, Jack about the current market conditions as well as about source and access new launches & latest development etc. Live demonstrations of machinery were put up by the show. In terms of organisation the show in 2020 in the industry under one roof. many exhibitors. was better than 2019. When compared to its last Companies including leading manufacturers and edition in New Delhi the show this year was almost Technologies on show included CAD / CAM, sewing suppliers of garment machinery and accessories from equal in terms of participation but witnessed an machines, knitting machines, embroidery machines, over 22 countries, i.e. Germany, Japan, Taiwan, China, increase in visitors’ footfall. This shows that the apparel digital textile printing, laundry machines, quilting Korea, Turkey, Italy, the US and India etc. participated and textile industry is coming out of the impact of low machines, fusing machines, finishing equipment, in the show. GTE has always been an integral trade market sentiments and turmoil, which was witnessed spreading & cutting machines, printing & packaging platform cum showcase for companies, when by India in last few years. The quality of visitors which machines, hot air seam sealing machines, fancy yarn launching new technologies and equipment. comprised the serious buyers and decision makers machines, dyeing machines, dyes, fancy yarns, non- from leading companies from all over India was very This edition of GTE witnessed participation from woven bag making machine, software solutions, well appreciated by the participants renowned companies from across the textile and spares & attachments, accessories & trims, testing apparel value chain exhibiting like, HCA, IIGM, equipment, support services, etc.

60 APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 Exhibitor comments...

he clothing industry is the he customers today are open to Tsecond largest user of water on Taccept the new technologies in the planet, with each litre of water India and invest in new things that can consumed also ending up as help them in improving their effluent, often containing unused productivity & efficiency, and help chemical and particulate matter. them to manage their factories. We Xeros Textile Technologies have displayed full range of Jack high- significantly reduces the end products in the 250-square- environmental impact of garment meter Jack hall which is the 1st time finishing while delivering a high in Indian exhibition, including IoT quality textile finish. India is a machines, spreader, template good market where government is machine, a full range of lockstitch, pushing the industry to go overlock, interlock, special machine towards sustainability and to be high-end models, heavy duty Mark Nichols complaint. We are very lucky to Lucian machines, etc. The highlight was Jack Xeros Technology Group Plc be working here with Ramsons. Jack Sewing Machine Co., Ltd. IoT(Internet of Things) shown first At Garment Technology Expo we time in India which attracted many are showcasing our sustainable customers. GTE is a good show, denim solutions - XDrum 520 organizers have done a good job and which incorporates Xeros’ they are very cooperative. With the technology manufactured by great success of the GTE exhibition in Ramsons Under the agreement January, we believe that we will on an exclusive basis across achieve a big breakthrough South Asia and Africa. I am quite together in 2020! happy with the response.

with HCA in India since 2018 and India. Now, we have our own office who are very professional and have and have complete service and very good name and reputation in spare parts spare parts back up the market. In the beginning year, here. As far as market is we had a small share in the market concerned, we have increased by but we are hopeful of doing really almost 30 percent, when compared well in 2020 in terms of sales and to 2018, in 2019. A company’s bring more value to the customers. success depends on its strategy With the help of HCA we are and dealer network as how it is focusing on to give customers operating in the market. We will be more user-friendly updated growing a lot in next 3 years in machinery which will make their India, and our company policy is production process smoother. GTE providing quality first and having 2020 is a bigger exhibition than last healthy business policy. At GTE, Alex year; we can see more automated Roben Wu quantity of the visitors is less when Hikari (Shanghai) Precise Machinery machineries and latest Zoje Sewing Machine Co. Ltd. compared to last year but it's a Science & Technology Co., Ltd. technologies being displayed all good platform where all our over. Of course we will be ndia is the most developing partners come from all over India e have participated in GTE participating in GTE’s next edition in Icountries right now, where the with customers with their problems W2020 displaying some of the Bangalore in August this year. India economy is growing day-by-day. Zoje and issues. We try and solve that, machines which were already has huge domestic and exports is a very supportive Chinese brand, and continue to make solutions with showcased last year along with some markets, wherein China market is and with the support of our local team our team as per their requirements. new automated machinery like the going down. So due to order shifts we try and make sure that we provide Overall it's a good exhibition, and pocket setter for knits, and also the it is expected to do well in 2020. proper service and do good we have decided to take a bigger neck joining machine. We are working marketing of our products all over booth next year.

Steven, Ningbo Supreme Electronic Machinery Inc

t this exhibition we have focused only on two parts; exhibition is very interesting, all the customers who are Afirst is jeans automation like a pocket setter and coming to our stall are very much interested in loop setter, and second part is for knits garment like our automation. So I believe Supreme will bring all its new automatic calf machine and auto heat transfer machine. Chinese automations to India very soon. GTE will be India is a huge market and our Supreme company has organising its next edition in August in Bangalore and we been investing a lot in it since last one year, so now we will be participating in it to promote our products there. have built our team and service centres in each area. In India, we will be working with our own office and with We keep investing and developing this market. We have the support of our dealer network. Our main purpose is completed our first branch in Okhla, and next will be to be very close to our customers by providing good developed in Tirupur, Mumbai and other areas. The service to them correctly.

APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 61 Exhibitor comments...

washing and home application. We Besides, we are the only one having have various products on finishing CE certifications for it. Indian market segment like iron tables, power has its own problems, which are very boilers, steam generators, water unique and different from global softener etc. In future, all our market and requires Indian solutions products will focus on energy only. The industry for last 2 years has saving. Our products consumed been going through scenario where less electricity and water, so they are facing a lot of changes in compared to traditional, our boilers terms of government policies like are environmental friendly and GST, not having quick funding promote green. We focus a lot on facilities and they are also not having service, which is better when any agreements with US, EU or other compared to others operating in markets globally, which is a the market. We have an exclusive disadvantage when compared to Yao Haiying strategy to work with Hari Chand John Tan Choon Chuan some competitive countries. We Shenzhen Hemway Smart Anand (HCA) company in India Pegasus Sewing Machine Pte. Ltd. inspire them to have this advantage Device Co., Ltd market . So we are very optimistic of improving their efficiency. Every about our products future in India. n the current economic situation country has its own solutions to be emway is a leading supplier of We are happy with the response Iwhen everybody is facing difficulty competitive in the global market. Hsmart clothing ironing equipment we have received at GTE in terms of costing. By using our India has everything from raw in China. We provide customers exhibition. We will also be technology one can produce material to manpower to land, so you reliable products with energy-saving, participating in the Bangalore efficiently with labour saving. We are have your own advantages. Now I see smart and efficient features in the exhibition as it is very important the first company in the industry a little positivity coming back into it. fields of clothing production, clothing for us to present there. which has chain stitch machine with Going ahead, I see India continues to direct drive motors manufactured. be very price sensitive market.

concept called sustainability. So if about our success and growth. you see all the products which we We have complete technological have been doing, everything is solutions from cutting to finish focused on saving water, chemical product for apparel and home consumption and earth's natural textile industry. This time we resources. At GTE this year, have displayed many new Ramsons is proudly associating technologies from our principals. with the XerosTM textile technology GTE basically is a great platform solution which is a UK based all across India for showcasing company and have displayed latest technology, and we are XDrum 520 garment washing very happy to be a leading part of machine which incorporates Xeros’ that right from the beginning. technology manufactured by Last few years have been slow Ramsons in India. We have been for the industry both at domestic Sunder Belani participating in GTE for last 20 Raghav Sharma and exports front, which also Ramsons Garment Finishing years. The show has always been IIGM Pvt. Ltd. reflected in the visitor turnout at Equipment India Pvt. Ltd oganised well and brings the show. But at the same time customers from all major textile e are serving the apparel and we had many quality visitors, and amsons are the largest supplier hubs of India as well as those Wtextile industry for last 3 hope this transcends and Rof garment finishing equipment in which we are unable to meet decades with 15 offices and over 500 translates into good business South Asia. It has four production normally from internal areas. It’s a employees, representing world’s best for everyone. facilities and 15 service centres great platform to meet those kinds technology brands speaks volumes across six countries. For last 20 of visitors here. years we have been working on a

J. Sudhakar Varma, Bruce India

ruce Sewing Machine Company from China is a without changing parts. The inventory of machines will Bmember of Jack Holding Group. This time we are come down and the puckering problems in lightweight participating jointly in one hall with Jack. At GTE 2020 fabrics will come to an end. Apart from this we displayed we have introduced our new Single Needle Lock Stitch our other regular models. For us the year 2019 was good (R5S) and Overlock Machine (X5S) series of machines. in spite of overall slowdown in the industry, and we hope The patented designed lockstitch and overlock series to achieve good growth in 2020. Overall, there were can stitch lightweight fabrics to extra heavy fabrics fewer visitors in the exhibition when compared to last without changing any spare parts for conversion of year but location of our booth is very good and we are machines. These German designed machines are for happy with the response. exporter/fabricators for stitching any kind of fabric

62 APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 e have recently taken agency e are into unit production Wof Beworth for the Northern Wsystems for garments and India market. They are one of the home textiles factories. The design leading & largest manufacturers of of our hanger system is based on high quality flat knitting machines in piece flow production which China. Here, we have launched reduces WIP by 75% and improves Beworth flat knitting machine for production efficiency. It further sweater and shoe uppers. Apart from transforms the factories to achieve this, we have displayed spare parts automation, digitization and for apparel and knitting industry, and paperless. Now looking at present spandex yarn from Korea. We have scenario of the industry in India, always participated in GTE. At this these systems are very important edition, the visitor turnout is low but for increasing the productivity and we met some serious visitors who efficiency. This is the best platform Rajesh Bihani have shown good interest especially Manpreet Singh to showcase the right technology. RI Texsolutions Pvt. Ltd. in our newly launched flat knitting INL International Technology Pte Ltd Every year we participate, and we machine. The year 2019 was not are associated with GTE from last good for the industry as it is going 5 years. Response is always good. through global recession, and also This exhibition is the pioneer in our domestic industry was hit due to India but timing of the show is various policy changes done by the not right. The year 2019 was govt. But now things are settling slow for the industry but we did down and everything will improve well and expect 2020 should be after Budget. much better.

achieve the level of efficiency from generate a pattern. This helps in top to bottom level. We have quick costing which will also help added some new automatic the user to customise a pattern machines to our range but will be according to his buyers expanding more in coming years. requirement. Along with that we have other existing products In terms of response there is lots including CAD, automatic marker of work in this market. India has making, 3D etc. GTE has always been growing though it was facing been good show for us. Mainly two bad years but due to the because this is the biggest domestic market it has started exhibition we see in India and doing well for past 3 months. people from all over India, Hopefully, we will be increasing our sometimes from neighbouring business in 2020. We have never countries like Bangladesh, Sri Lanka felt any kind of problem with GTE. Bhavya Anand Sameer Pauriyal also visit the same. The show is Whenever there is any issue, Hari Chand Anand& Co. Tukatech Inc. visited by many people from 2 tier everyone from the organising and 3 tier cities, the industry people team tries and solve that who get to know about the rom HCA we have lots of new promptly, so we are very grateful ince this is the beginning of the automation process which they can Fmachines especially for knitted to them. The response has been Syear and Tukatech also completed adopt in their factories and plants. garments like Pocket Setter from really good, even on the first day its 25th year so one of our latest Although the industry was slow but Hikari and automatic machines from moning sold some machines.There launches is Tuka APM - automatic 2019 was a very good year for us other principals for cuff, collar and are so many people visiting our pattern making. It is the first step and hopeful of doing well in 2020. placket making which can save 5-8 stall and we had been busy towards automating the pattern Industry always talks about exports people in terms of labour and throughout the show. We will be making where in any layman who market but India has a huge increase your production by about participating in GTE Bangalore doesn't have knowledge of pattern domestic market so both the 400-800%. We're working in this edition in August again. can just feed the measurements and industry with each and everyone to markets keep on balancing us.

Vishal Sher, Studio Next Technology Private Limited

e have an experience of almost 25 years in and also new version of Richpeace CAD with latest CE Wcutting room solutions. So, we know exactly compliant 2nd Generation MJKC series of cutting and what our customers need. For the first time we have marker plotter. We believe that these technologies displayed a new model CYG YIN state-of-art automatic collectively provide an undaunted much required support cutting machine and automatic spreading machine here to the manufacturing industry and which will alternately at GTE. In addition, we have super-fast & powerful Single boost the industry and economic growth. With the help ply cutting machine for car seat industry with SCOPE of automation in its process, an apparel manufacturer brand. We have also displayed an affordable range of can achieve its targets. In my opinion 2020 should be Scope Spreader machines designed and developed good for the industry. indigenously for the small and mid-size manufacturers,

APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 63 Exhibitor comments...

models comes with digitalization terms of export incentives customers this saves lot of time in machine have understood that their bottom line setting. We also have IoT based has been affected and unless they system which connects all the improve their profitability they cannot machine in a network. At GTE 2020 sustain and survive. In last three we feel there is very less visitor years we have also changed our football. There were hardly 10-15% policies in the same direction of customers from Noida region. approaching the customers. Even the Many key customers were new models from Brother are trying to missing this time. Market prove how much manpower you can sentiments are still negative save. One of the main products that according to the customers. 2020 we are focusing on is our Brother IOT looks promising, people are systems which is going to be the getting into new projects, which future, which we started three years R Gopal Kukreti is taking time but still they are Randeep Sahani ago. It is a very common word in all Juki India Pvt. Ltd. ready to invest in new Brother International (India) Pvt. Ltd. the industries but in garment industry technologies. Big customers are I don't think there was anybody who his time we have displayed the having very good work orders. e are not just trying to display was having systems to capture the Tbiggest pattern Seamer ,overlock There is huge scope for big Wthe machines but to present data digitally and on real time. The single needle and other new overlock projects, which are coming up and the solutions. We are the only system is very unique and the way machines. The main benefit of these many new projects are in pipeline. company here which is presenting Brother has made it is very user machines in the pattern Seamer you Even many foreign investors are some device and automation on each friendly and requires very least data can do 10 colours at a time. So, it will coming up to India to set- up their and every machine that we have management before and after every help you in increasing your units. Even in the two tier cities displayed. Today customers want to style. GTE 2020 has not been up to the productivity and doesn't require any like Ranchi, Bhubaneswar, which know what solution we are ready to mark, the footfall has been really low skilled operator, even a normal are growing now, we have opened give, not only the machines. In the but we had some very good quality worker can operate it. Now all our our offices. last two and half years government customers from South India, which is has changed their policies a lot. In one of the good factors here.

and they have been working with the speed printers which will be launched textile industry since a very long very soon. Epson is also coming up time so they have the experience with their florescent colour printer. and expertise to make best kind of Monalissa is also there in our kitty for machineries. The build quality is very almost one and half years now for good, we are using the Kyocera reactive printing. Apart from this, we heads which is there in all the higher have screen printing from M&R. DCC and printing machines available in is basically offering a complete the market right now. From Yuemei bouquet of products for printing. 2019 brand we have launched a single was obviously a tough year because head embroidery machine. It's a high of the international recession. Luckily speed machine, very stable and build due to complete range of products we quality is also very good. Business were able to survive through the wise, the response in 2019 has been troubled time. We expect a Mukund Agarwal very good. People are pouring in and Annshuman Nagpal turnaround after March. Ultimately Baba Textile Machinery (India) P. Ltd. we have been expanding in new DCC Print Vision LLP revolution is going to happen in markets. We have taken digital digital and there are no two thoughts e are showing 3 new printing to Ludhiana now where we his time we have come up with about it, and it is bound to happen Wtechnologies at GTE. One is 8 got very good response. 2020 is TEpsonSureColor SC-F9330 dye- now. GTE is the number one show all heads digital textile printing machine expected to be a nice year. The sublimation transfer printer delivers across India but this year because of from Atexco. Second is Flat knitting textile market in general will go up. high-volume prints using the most slow market conditions, and it getting machine from Steiger, third is high end At GTE 2020, football has not been advanced technology without organised earlier due to Chinese new single head embroidery machine from very high but yes those who are wavering on the quality it produces. year, could be the reason behind Yuemei . Atexco is a very old company coming are of good quality. Epson is going to come up with high lower visitor turnout.

Shivalingappa (Shivu), Loiko Global Private Limited

e were supposed to display buttonhole indexer interested in buying the machines have been visiting the Wbut due to space constraint we postponed it to show. For us the customers who are mainly going for the Bangalore exhibition in August. That was our new expansion have visited our stall. Now majority of the launched in CISMA recently.. Right now we have visitors are talking about automation, not the basic displayed a button feeder with colour sensor, and our machines. Overall, response was OK here. The year 2019 other existing button wrapping & knotting, autojig was not a very good year for the industry but we were pattern sewer, digital puller machines. We are coming able to achieve our target. Our company always focuses up with a button feeder with the Logo sensor in coming on providing good service to the customers, which is the six months. This year main customers who are really key to our success.

64 APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 this technology. Hence we have for us as most of the existing and displayes all the samples made prospective customers have with this technology. Now we visited the show. Though the are getting good response, number of buyers have reduced earlier the people who were this time but quality has improved. saying it's an expensive We target quality customers only technology have started so that requirement has been entering the segment. GTE is a fulfilled here. 2019 was not very good show, but we want to good year for the industry. request all the exhibition However, many of our competitors organisers to hold the grew by 30 percent but Zoje grew exhibition once in two years so by almost 40 percent last year. This that we have a lot of time to year, we have added almost seven make such huge participation new dealers all over India Anshuman Dash investment as well as to Kundan Kumar Gupta especially in Southern India. We H&H Asia Group Ltd develop new innovations. We Zoje India Private Limited are planning hundred percent will be definitely be having a growth this year. Besides, we will &H is one of the pioneers in the small space at GTE Bangalore oje is number one in China in be participating in upcoming GTE HSeam Sealing and bonding edition August this year. We Zterms of quality but in terms of Bangalore this year. But the technology. The company offers use this exhibition platform to sales we are number 2. We are organises should focus on all the various models from economy to best create PR with industry as it is displaying here a lot of machinery areas, though they are doing good of the technology since 1993. At GTE not possible for us to go and starting from lockstitch, flatlock, job but they should provide us we have not come to sell the meet each and every customer Bartaking etc. We have changed the proper electricity supply, and also machine but we are coming and at their respective units pan look of all these machineries and the staff at the entrance should be showing them what can be done with India market. added more new features into it. We made more professional and polite have displayed the machine with UBT to the visitors. . Response at the exhibition is good

we have brought here at GTE is regularly catering to them and have actually a software that gives you been participating in GTE every real time inputs on where your year. Our overall experience has garments actually are, How you been very good here and we are visualise your actions in real time, really happy with the show. We Calculating the overtime margins have displayed here button hole faster and better. Our company machine, button stitch and pattern Zilingo has been around here for making machines. 2019 was a very more than a year. We were more of good year for our company and we at a marketplace and know the hope it continues to be the same in largest problem lies in the supply 2020 as well. We have been chain so we have come up with the working with Gemsy exclusively for solution, which is going to help all last 20 years. Sales wise, last year the stakeholders and suppliers. was really good for us. We have Spruha Mehta Now we are more aggressive and R. K. Bansal been associated with GTE for last Zilingo Global Private Limited you will be seeing us at all the Beacon International so many years. They have done a places reaching all the customers. good job, organised it really well. If ll the spaces around us have This is our first time at GTE and eacon International is a company the market scenario improves in Abecome digitised while we have had good interaction with the Bestablished in India in 1996 and 2020 will be really good for the so much potential here but very little visitors. Response has been good since last 24 years we have been industry as a whole. investment has been made that can and we are really hopeful of having agents of Gemsy. We have been bring us more tech savvy. So what longer Association with GTE.

Rahul Aggarwal, Shree Balaji Industries

asically, we make sublimation paper in various also doing sublimation printers from China and which we BGSM, and have just started sublimation inks. In have launched in GTE. Sublimation market has become India, we are the only company manufacturing both very price sensitive in India, so we are offering products sublimation ink and papers together. Besides, we also like a package wherein we are offering machine, paper make plastisol inks and water based inks for screen and ink together at a good price. This is for the third time printing for last 15 years in India. Until 5 years ago a lot we are participating in GTE but the response wise we are of sublimation products used to be imported from China not happy. The football is not very good but this is mainly but for last 2 years imports have reduced and most of because of the show taking place early this year. In the people are using products made in India. We are terms of sales, 2019 was good for us, we have grown a making good high quality products in India now. We are lot and hope to do better in 2020.

APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 65 66 APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 67 Swiss Textile Machinery innovating to meet the challenges

How Swiss Textile Machinery members can minimize Two approaches to water savings the environmental footprint of the finishing industry At Jakob Muller, top-quality technical parameters go hand-in-hand with Since antiquity, humans have been exploiting colour to enhance both our the necessity for environmentally-friendly production in its innovative personal appearance and the world we live in. Dyed and printed textiles are efforts. For example, its new washing module fulfils product and a prime example, with a huge global coloration industry developing over environmental needs, thanks to improved washing-off results with less the centuries. However, the massive consumption of water and energy energy and water consumption. It is important to the company that any required by many finishing processes, as well as the toxicity of some dyeing processes use recycled water wherever possible. “Water is the chemicals, has increasingly caused grave concern to environmentalists most critical resource in dyeing. Advanced as well as less-developed and the wider public. Conversely, responding to these worries has been markets are forced to face this challenge, which offers innovative the catalyst for innovation among eco-responsible companies in the Swiss suppliers new opportunities in markets that were previously closed,” Textile Machinery Association. says Christian Lerch, Head of Global Sales and Marketing, Jakob Muller AG Frick. Green-tech denim dyeing Open-width finishing equipment specialist Benninger tackles another Washing processes, solvents and dyes in manufacturing account for one- important environmental issue in one of its latest developments by fifth of industrial water pollution, according to the `State of Fashion 2020´ measuring pollution levels in the washing process. A sensor report by consulting firm McKinsey. This is the kind of evidence which automatically gauges the level of pollutant, so that only the required sparks urgent calls to action addressed to politicians – as well as textile amount of water is fed into the wash chamber, ensuring minimum use brands. But the Swiss finishing machinery companies need no such wake- of both water and energy, and high reproducibility of the washing result. up call: for years, many of them have been actively developing and launching This is part of Benninger’s commitment to investing in resource-saving innovations with environmental friendliness as a prime requisite. technology, offering recovery processes for heat, waste water and An example is research into dyeing process which work without hazardous chemical leaching. chemicals. At ITMA 2019, green technology denim dyeing became a reality with Smart-Indigo™, a Swiss innovation by Sedo Engineering, introduced Testing for sustainability at the show. The underlying breakthrough was the ability to industrialize Producing laboratory and testing instruments, as well as customized the electrochemical process for reducing indigo, using only electricity. The production machinery, Mathis has a strong basis of expertise in the dyeing dyestuff is produced by an electrochemical process, consuming and coating sectors. The company understands the importance of quality considerably fewer resources than existing methods. The method uses assurance related to both performance and durability in applications such only indigo pigments, caustic soda, water and electricity. In a fully-automated as sport and leisure. And equally vital is the role of effective testing of system, clean dyestuff is produced, metered and fed directly to the dye product sustainability, as a key element in customer satisfaction. bath. Smart-Indigo™ is the most sustainable way to dye denim for jeans. Textile dyeing and finishing is one of the most chemically-intensive Ecological profitability – no contradiction industries – a fact acknowledged by Swiss machinery manufacturers. As Benninger Group CEO Beat Meienberger says: “We have invested a The finishing industry today demands machinery which meets ecological great deal in resource management and our equipment offers valuable requirements at the same time as enabling mills to operate profitably. That features to make this industry more sustainable. Solutions are was the motivation behind the development of ESC (Energy-Saving customized, based on sophisticated technologies and showing high Chamber) under the Santex brand of Santex Rimar Group. By re-using quality for a long lifespan. Targeting sustainability can be more than just exhaust air from the Santa shrink dryer, ESC increases production capacity lip service – but it has its price.” by 15 to 17 percent from the same amount of heating energy. Maximum performance at low energy use, for low residual shrinkage, soft hand feel Sustainable finishing processes are the only way to save the planet. and surface luster is the goal of Santex machines. The specialized open- Companies can make sustainability real with innovative solutions from width fabric surface treatment systems always offer energy-saving options members of the Swiss Textile Machinery Association. With developments for sustainable production and low CO2 values – along with the promise of which minimize water and energy consumption and tackle the challenge of a return on investment in 1.5 years. hazardous solvents, Swiss technology is ready for change

68 APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 69 GMMSA Expo India 2020 Presents latest technologies focusing on increasing productivity and efficiency

he 5th edition of GMMSA Expo India showcased leading inventions in the Tworld of garment manufacturing machinery. The GMMSA Expo was held at Dana Mandi, Bahadur Ke Road, Ludhiana from January 3rd to January 6th, 2020. The expo was inaugurated by Pradeep Aggarwal – Deputy Commissioner of Ludhiana. Also present during the inauguration were Vinod Thapar - Chairman, Knitwear Club and Charanjit Singh - Secretary Shawl Club. Ram Krishan – Chairman and Narinder Kumar - President, GMMSA Expo India 2020 welcomed Pradeep Aggarwal. Also present on the occasion were Gurpreet Singh, Amit Jain, Parmesh Wasist, Gurdev Singh, Jatinder Sudera, Teja Singh, Mohan Chawla, Rajinder Bhamra, Davinder Pal and office bearers of team GMMSA. Speaking at the occasion, Pradeep Aggarwal said, “That GMMSA expo is an ideal platform for industry to upgrade its machinery and compete with global industry. Latest technological innovations available to the industry at its doorstep will be a big boom for the industry in Ludhiana.” The expo displayed over 2,000 products on knitting, weaving, dyeing, finishing, printing, sewing machines and accessories by leading brands with participants the idea of energy saving. There is a growing urgency to save resources and for from India and over 20 countries. This year is even bigger and better than the this, manufacturers are striving to make machines more energy efficient and previous editions and the scale of the expo is spread of over 2 lakh sq ft. The first highly productive thereby increasing efficiency.” day of the exhibition saw a footfall of more than 15,000 visitors where manufacturers demonstrated the latest technology in respective fields of Hailed as grand success by industry garmenting and processing. The expo turned out to be a great show to get a glimpse of the manufacturing Speaking on the occasion, Ram Krishan - Chairman, GMMSA Expo India 2020 machines and accessories all under one roof. On the whole, the exhibition was said, “The garment industry looks upon GMMSA Expo and GMMSA activities for a hub of innovation over the last four days and more than 50,000 people visited up gradation of the machinery in all segments of garmenting and this is a matter the exhibition. GMMSA also facilitated the exhibitors for their participation and of pride for us. On showcase are the most updated technological concepts sought their support for next year 2021. Among the vast array of Chinese, providing cost cutting, time and labour cost saving with more productivity and Korean, Taiwanese and European machines that were on display, the Make in eye catching designs for the industry. We will continue to provide a premier India ideal stands out among its contemporaries. Manufacturers have made it platform for machinery manufacturers to showcase their latest inventions and a point to display their indigenously manufactured machines at the exhibition. technological advancements under one roof.” This comes as a heartening move for India to become independent of foreign products. From knitting machines, to mini boilers to packaging machines; one Narinder Kumar - President, GMMSA Expo India 2020 said, "This expo has been could see Indian products standing proudly alongside foreign ones. Many put together by the people who are directly associated with the industry or are a domestic manufacturers say that while it is cheaper to manufacture machines part of it. We are very happy with the tremendous response that we have got from locally, there are some parts of the machines that need to be imported from all segments of the industry. Clearly, we have grown up with a lot of support and countries like China. are thankful to our exhibitors for reposing their faith on GMMSA Expo India as well as the team GMMSA." The well organised stalls were a treat for those who visited. The display of value added features enhancing productivity as well as quality of the end product Increasing productivity and efficiency significantly reeled in many enquiries. Top notch brass of the industry from knitting With prevailing competitive environment in domestic and global industry, one of houses, dyeing, finishing, processing houses marked their presence with their the biggest concerns of machine manufacturers is that they need to make the production and quality control teams. machines more energy efficient. This effort was visible at GMMSA that witnessed a large number of visitors. People from different parts of the country visited the Exhibitor comments exhibition to get a glimpse of the latest technology that is available in the market. Narinder Kumar, Narinder International There is a growing urgency to save resources and for this the manufacturers are “We are of one the largest and leading providers of garment manufacturing and striving hard to make machines more energy efficient and highly productive thereby knitting machinery in India. We have presence across major manufacturing centers increasing efficiency and cost cutting. There are plenty of machines that are faster and across India like Ahmadabad, Ludhiana, Panipat, Surat and Mumbai. This year produce more, however, inventors have not left out the idea of energy saving. The aim also we have brought latest technology machines in flat and computerized flat is to deliver effective production and to minimise wastage. Saving water and electricity knitting. These machines are modelled on multi gauge format thereby eliminating is a challenge that all manufacturers face and have achieved success to some extent. the need to install multiple machines and saving much needed capital for the industry. This further helps the entrepreneurs in taking orders as per market demand Energy saving and innovation remains dominant theme across different gauge parameters resulting in better return on investment.” This year the manufacturers showcasing their latest machines have focused keenly on saving energy and innovation. The technology up gradation and Amit Jain, Nav Pankaj Creation “The focus of the company is to make the garment manufacturing more cost development focussed on these two areas to drive profitability while keeping in effective. With multipurpose and high speed machines this cost effectiveness is mind the environmental impact industry has. achieved. We have thick thread, multi-head and chenille machines. The market is Mohan Chawla, Project Head, GMMSA Expo India 2020 said, “There are plenty of eager to produce quality products in a more cost effective way.” machines that are faster and produce more, however, inventors have not left out

70 APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 Gurpreet Singh, KP Exim Inc. “Time saving machines help reduce costs and increase productivity. Our computerized knitting machines under brand Cixing operate at high speed of 140 resulting in less production time and increased productivity. We also have latest machines from Steiger that were launched in India now. These machines have pop up motorized feeders that reduce production time by 30 per cent.” Jayesh Shah, Indian Dyes Sales Corporation (IDSC) “We are the sole selling distributors of Lancer Group since last 25 years for plastisol ink. This ink is used for garment printing, and the brand is very quality conscious using world class raw materials. We basically deal in specially products and have European standard certificates like DEKOTEX. Our products are mostly Gurdev Singh, Elex International used in screen printing for garment and hosiery products. We also have MATSUI "We are one of the leading manufacturers of power flats and semi jacquard brand from JAPAN that deals in water based inks. This is the only world class machines in Ludhiana itself and we manufacture the components of these machines Japanese Ink available in India.” ourselves. We are making sincere efforts to endeavour on Make in India campaign and indigenous the industry by patronizing machines in their own country. The new Ankur Gupta, Shori Chemicals machines being developed keeping in mind the need to minimize energy wastage "We believe that people will only get to know how well a particular machine and increased efficiency." performs when they can see it for themselves. So we have arranged live stations and you can see the machines working. Grafica screen printing by Ovaltex, High- Ashok Kumar, Arrow Knitech speed sublimation printer, Promise roller fusing machine and Shaperjet 3D printer “We deal in various machines for entire garmenting processes like knitting, are some of the things that are on display at our stall. The printer by Graphica sewing, pressing, leather stitching, shoe making and many more. Here in Flextronic can print 400 to 500 T-shirts in an hour and this machine is also being GMMSA Expo India 2020, we have on exhibit computerised flatbed knitting exported to other countries. India used to import printing machines till this company machines that can make stolls, sweaters, shoe uppers, T-shirts and many started manufacturing it in India itself.” other garments that have huge demand in Ludhiana market. Our knitting machines have advantage over others in having almost 30 percent more Pankaj Kalra, Retech International production than normal machines thereby being more cost effective for "In India garment manufacturers are looking for heavy duty machines that will do the manufacturer.” the kind of work that they want done. We have on display 66 inch machines and multi-gauge machines. These machines are among the top machines that are Satyadev Goyal, India Agencies available in the country and they are high-speed. With increased speed than "Quicker machines mean that the production is more. With the betterment in technology previous versions and updated technology, entrepreneurs will be lead on cost the cost-effectiveness of a machine ensures that it is putting lesser pressure on the efficiencies and be more competitive and able to price their garments at attractive resources. The Jack sewing machines are known for their reliability, making them prices for end consumers." excellent machines that last longer and require lower maintenance"

APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 71 SITME 2020 - Becomes most successful trade show in history of Surat

urat, an emerging city, is known as the textile city machines are purchased by businessmen in Surat, Sof Gujarat. The textile industry is one of the oldest which houses around 1.5 lakh embroidery machines. and the most widespread industries in Surat. Embroidery segment will help increase the city’s According to a report, there are 700,000 power looms, GDP which at 9.17 per cent is highest in the country,” 150,000 embroidery machines, 200 wholesale textile said Surat Embroidery Association President markets. 25,000 manufacturers including 10,000 Sandeep Duggal. weavers, 100,000 traders, 500 processing units in Speaking about the expo, President of Southern Gujarat the Rs 500-bn synthetic textile hub of Surat. Chamber of Commerce & Industry, Ketan Desai said, The textile production of The textile production of Surat has been growing “Future brands will get created in Surat with the help Surat has been growing continuously for last 12 years; one of the main reasons of high speed machineries. Real fabric will get an behind the growth is the ability to adapt to changes identity and be introduced to the world through Surat’s continuously for last 12 and the latest trend. It is also necessary to update digital printing and embroidery machinery. This years; one of the main the technology used at the industry as well as the edition, almost 35 different companies have put their reasons behind the growth infrastructure. The current supply and demand factors stalls in SITME from all over the world, especially provide very conducive and favourable business China, and Korea. Our Indian companied also is the ability to adapt to environment for the technological investment. In such participated in it. Both embroidery and digital changes and the latest scenario, there is a big need to the industry to upgrade machines are showcased in expo. Through this, we itself with the latest technological developments are promoting digital industry.” trend. It is also necessary taking place worldwide. CR Paatil, Navsari MP, who was the Chief Guest, said, to update the technology That is why for providing these technologies under “Embroidery has given a lifeline to the textile industry used at the industry as one roof, and promoting the ‘Brand SURAT’, Surat which has been reeling under recession world over. Embroidery Association (SEA) and The Southern The city’s textile industry is coming out of recession well as the infrastructure. Gujarat Chamber of Commerce & Industry (SGCCI) thanks to forward-thinking businessmen and The current supply and jointly organised the 2nd edition of SITME 2020 - Surat industrialists.” International Textile & Machinery Expo from 3-5 demand factors provide The exhibition was organized by SGCCI and Surat January, 2020 at Surat International Exhibition and Embroidery Association with a view to promote and very conducive and Convention Centre (SIECC). accelerate modernization in the textile sector. SITME favourable business The show was inaugurated with traditional lap lighting is the platform for the industry people who are environment for the ceremony by the auspicious hands of the honored planning to upgrade their factories. The show provided guests. The welcome address was given by Ketan a huge showcase of latest technologies in embroidery, technological investment. Desai, President, SGCCI. After this Devesh Patel, Head, printing, laser and weaving along with accessories. Exhibition Cell, SGCCI and Sandeep Duggal, President, At this show, manufacturers and dealers of textile Surat Embroidery Association spoke about the ‘Overall machinery showcased their wide range of innovative scenario of exhibition’ and ‘About SITME’20’ product and services. It is an ideal business respectively. The inaugural address was given by Chief opportunity to the textile manufacturers, job workers, Guest, CR Paatil, Hon’ble Member of Parliament. At and entrepreneurs to source new technologies and the end a formal vote of thanks was given by Dinesh upgrade their factories to become globally Navadiya, Vice President, SGCCI. competitive. Today, SITME is considered to be one of Over 35000 buyers visited from Surat and nearby. the biggest expo in Surat for embroidery and digital “Every year more than 5,000 new embroidery printing technologies.

72 APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 73 Exhibitor comments...

EA is a very old platform but CISMA at their door step. So, we brands machine here. The industry Searlier it was used only to hope Surat will witness growth in need to upgrade their plants for organise exhibitions. But now we are 2020 with these models. Nowadays survival especially in embroidery using it to promote the industry. We Surat based industrialist are realising segment as the technologies are have organised the show smoothly importance of upgrading their getting updated in every six with SGCCI’s support. This is the first technologies to stay ahead in months. Same is also happening exhibition where we have given competition. We are also highlighting with digital because until three personalised invitations to all the 50 mtr per minute digital printing years back the technology which customers via exhibitors directly. We machine by ATEXCO, which has used to do 800 mtr per day was have organised this show at 50 per already been booked and will be considered as heavy production cent cost and used the remaining installed by March 2020. But that has machine and today the technology money in R&D for industry’s not been displayed here. Our focus at which does 2500 mtr per day looks betterment. Here, Surat based the show is digital printing less. Productivity is increasing. I companies are able to see the sublimation machine and we are believe 2020 shall be good. Sandeep Duggal, Indo Asia technologies that were presented at displaying Kizashi and ATEXCO Machines Pvt Ltd and SEA President

device with cutter super high speed better than our expectations. Two machine. We see huge scope in digital years ago we started making non- textile printing so have also presented woven bag making machine, which 3 head machine. The technology has has been sold all over India. We are various advantages like water saving, the first one to launch 1700 rpm no pollution, allows short & fast machine that creates very less noise production and one operator can and runs continually. This will help handle 4 machines. We started doing customers in increasing their profits exhibition in 2005 but that time it cost and bringing their costing down. We too high, in 2008 we joined have been participating in exhibitions association. Forming Surat Embroidery for last 15 years but this exhibition has association gave us opportunity to given us extraordinary results. Due to raise our issues in front of govt. efforts of SEA, and its association with Besides, our costing has also come SGCCI, we have been successful in Manohar Tekchandani down after SGCCI and SEA coming Anil Chopra bringing everyone together at this Golden Falcon (I) Impex together to host this exhibition. KTL Textile Machines Pvt. Ltd. exhibition, where everybody has got Everyone’s feedback is really positive results. Next few years are expected to olden falcon started in 2001 by e have running KTL since 2004. after seeing the show being be very good for everyone in terms of introducing embroidery machine, We stared with embroidery G professionally managed. This was the W bookings and business in this industry. followed by cording & taping machine, thread and added embroidery machine correct time to host this exhibition, To boost small scale business we have sequin machine, chenille machine, in subsequent year. We have sold and we hope next four months are introduced paper straw machinery, high speed machine in later years. At 22,000 machines till day and out of that going to be really good for embroidery, which will help in providing self- this exhibition we have displayed 23 X 75 per cent is in Surat. Surat is the hub digital and weaving segments. employment to a lot of people in India. 400 dual sequins, simple cording for embroidery and the kind of response we have got from our customers is

machines. After coming up with Yuemei we don’t have to explain machine etc. Other verticals we customer quality, as they know this have entered is digital sublimation brand. At this exhibition, we have printing machines and inks, in highlighted our special Pantograph weaving we have high speed airjet, which has a very long life. Apart from rapier, waterjet, jacquard machines, this, we have displayed one side 6 and also have circular knitting sequin and on one side 3 colours machines. At SITME, we are beads. So you can run 12 colour displaying Double head double sequins and 6 colour beads. Besides, nozzle laser machine, Roll-to-roll we have kept sublimation printer on stone fixing machine in two colours, display here. Our association has rhine stone sticker machine, Stone done very good effort to make this mending machine, 1500 rpm High speed embroidery machine with Rajesh Gupta show successful. All our members especially Manohar Bhai has put all Sanjay Jha motorised cutter, Crochet machine, Om Satya Exim Pvt. Ltd. their efforts by showing unity and etc. SEA is one of India’s biggest Unix Stitchmachine Pvt. Ltd. organising this show without any bias. associations of its segment, with 52 or last 15 years we have been Besides, SGCCI has also supported it members that has organised this selling embroidery machines. e have been into this value F very well. There is huge footfall of show taking into consideration our Currently, there are 1 lakh machine in addition machinery industry for customers at the show. Now people in W internal concerns, suggestions and Surat and more than 2 lakh all over last 15 years. We started with Surat are increasing their machines to give us all maximum mileage. India. Om Satya has installed more embroidery then entered motif, quantity and also updating their The show has been organised very than 25,000 machines all over India. transfer, fusing, stonefix, and many existing technologies. We hope 2020 well and got very encouraging For 12 years we have sold Lejia other segments. In embroidery, we to 2022 is going to be very good for response and witnessed 15,000 machines, and this March we will be have machines from basic to beads, Surat embroidery industry. visitors on day-one itself. completing 1 year will Yumei high speed, sequins, taping, chenille

74 APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 75 Exhibitor comments...

reactive inks, acid inks and pigment high speed embroidery machine. At inks. We have created a supermarket for this show, we have displayed dual machines by offering customers all sequins device which can be used in all types of solutions. Here we have needles and threads. Also we have displayed a machine which is runs on launched auto bobbin changer robotic, pigment inks, along with 8 others hot fixing sequin machine from Korea. machines. We cater to customers’ SITME is a successful exhibition where needs in all types of heads and speeds. we had large number of customers Response at SITME has been amazing. visiting our stall with serious potential This is their 3rd exhibition, they have enquiries. We want the organiser ‘SEA’ grown and organised far better this year to keep on organising it every year by and supported the industry really well. I focusing exclusively on this segment am expecting Surat to be a business hub only like current edition. As it is only for in 2030 because you can find almost all our industry so we get focused visitors Preeti Ahuja industries here. Textile is something Paresh Lathiya and customers also know what they Blue Jade Texink Pvt. Ltd. which will never end. Surat market has Liberty Embro Exim Pvt. Ltd. - Sinsim can expect from the show. For Surat huge scope and growth prospects. embroidery industry, 2020 is going to be e started selling imported inks 11 e started Sinsim’s journey in Application of digital printing is better than 2019 for sure. As a years back and later added 2005, and have sold around W increasing nowadays in different types of W company we are aiming to grow 25 machineries to it. Followed by developing 20,000 machines till day. We have fabrics and apparels. Printing on percent more this year. inks and machines as per Indian embroidery and embroidery on printing recently launched NXC series1800 rpm customers’ requirements in China. We concept is growing. have sublimation inks, disperse inks, and Atexco high speed sublimation printers also. At this show we have machines, which we keep on updating displayed 4 head sublimation printer, and give trainings also. We have which does 1800 mtr production and 8 launched world’s first machine based on Kyocera print heads sublimation printer artificial intelligence, called robotic for the 1st time in India. Besides, Konica handwork machine/ position embroidery Minolta printers have also been machine. It scans the design, and you displayed here which can handle 20 gsm can select whichever handwork you paper. The show has been organised want the machine to do. We also have beautifully by SEA. There wasa lot of embroidery four sequin machines called customer footfall throughout the show, Magic 4 sequin machine, which reduces as we were busy. The Association has stitches to 25 percent, and Lowest rate done commendable job, organised the guarantee machine where we have show very well which is really good for removed luxurious items, which are not Sanjay Desai the industry. Surat market is going for used in an embroidery machine and True Colors volumes so we expect this market to Ashok Advani saved the cost. Response was replace conventional in next five years. Ashoka Enterprises (Signature) absolutely fantabulous throughout the he company was started in 2011. However, direct printing will always have show. India is world’s next leading TWe introduced sublimation printers a scope and or polyester sublimation will e started our journey in 2006 with country in textiles, best part of this show and have installed more than 2000 always be there. Digital has a very embroidery machines. We are W is that we have not given anybody a printers all over India. Then we started bright future ahead. pioneers of Khatli machine, and also single sq ft extra, hence space allotment working with Konica Minolta printers sold rapier, jacquard, waterjet, dobbies, is same for everyone, so instead of weaving units and yarn oriented showing power people are showing the entry level printer and sublimation machines. We have a textile machine technologies. Customers and exhibitors showroom where we have kept 25 printer. In sublimation, we are are very excited for the show. catering to high end customers. In last one year we have sold more than main markets Surat and South India. 1,000 machines and each machine In Surat we only focus on embroidery can print 3,000 to 4,000 mtr per day. and value addition machines, in As far as market is concerned, 2019 South of India, circular knitting first half was very slow, since machine, flat knitting machines, September we are seeing a good screen printing machines and digital boom coming in. Going further in printing. Here, we are displaying 1500 2020 we are very optimistic. rpm machine and four sequins Recently, we launched Mini Lario is machine. This is for the 1st time we India which can print 20,000 mtr in are also introducing two colour stone scanning mode. This is my first machines from FZY. This is the best Ayush Rathi participation in this exhibition and I exhibition our company has MS Orange Technologies Pvt. Ltd. was not expecting this in terms of participated in till day. We are really flow as the show has really e started with digital and in thankful to SGCCI and SEA, the way surpassed my expectations in terms last 10 years we have added a Pratik Jariwala they have organised and promoted W of buyers’ footfall. I am really lot in our portfolio like sublimation, Golden Falcon India Pvt. Ltd. this show. Timing and footfall of the satisfied with the number of quality direct digital printers and pigment (Paresh Jariwala Group) show is perfect. We are very people who have come to our booth. printers. We are representing MS in optimistic and hope every year such We have maintained 30 percent digital and having 50 percent market e represent Maya embroidery show is organised. We will growth every year so expect to share in industrial high speed printing. Wmachine brand and FZY value participate in next exhibition for sure. repeat the same in 2020. addition machines. We have two Recently, we started with Colorix for

76 APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 from Yulong Group which is a well- direct printer with Konica Minolta known company. The technology is head. Soon we are going to launch very advanced, so we are getting real 8 head Epson high speed more business day-by-day due to printer. Major advantage to customers positive response. customer is cost and quality. As Here, we are displaying four far as inks are concerned we are machines; firstly 36,250 with working in a joint venture with a beads, dual sequins and cording, Chinese company. Our inks secondly 1600 rpm machine which consumption is less than others can run regularly at 1500 and many available in the market. Digital has more. In last two months, the very bright future ahead due to slowdown created due to saving of water, less pollution and demonetisation and GST has n number of print design options. ended, hence customers are doing We have been participating in Nitin Soni well. We are expecting good Rushiraj Bhai various exhibitions for last so Dolphin Jingwei Technologies - orders in future. The show is Shradhdha Technologies many years but the kind of visitor (Promaker) completely well panned, stalls are footfall we have received here is hradhdha Technologies of same size so everyone’s money what we always wanted. This olphin was started in 2003 end manufactures textile printing is saved, which shows our S exhibition has begun 2020 very but we started working with machines and sublimation and D strength as an association. well for everyone, so we Promaker in 2017. The brand comes reactive inks. Earlier, we were expect the scenario continues importing machines but now are throughout the year. manufacturing sublimation and Warping machines. Our four different products are from best Chinese and Taiwanese brands. machineries to our offerings. Nowadays, everybody in Surat is Here, we are displaying Surat’s upgrading its machineries. In KTI first hotfix machine with 1200 we have introduced 3 head mm width stone. The sublimation machines, where technology got very good customer can get 1,600 mtr per day response. We have also production. We have introduced 6 displayed zipper making head machine that can produce machines and our existing 4,000 mtr per day. We are also embroidery machine range. dealing in Konica Minolta direct Response at the exhibition is printing machines. The response at really good, visitors were of the exhibition is very nice; huge good quality. The show has Piyush Khurana footfall and it’s going fantastic been jointly organised by SEA Shreenath Trade Avenue LLP here. In last two years, there were and SGCCI, which has created a lot of policy changes by the govt., Janak Sutariya good interest among the urs is a 15 years old brand, due to which textile industry was Vaibhav International (Silver Samurai) customers. Surat market is where we are dealing with four O not doing very good. We expect emerging, though it was slow types of products. We sell Promaker this year to be very good for ince 2007 we have been for sometime but it is hopeful embroidery machines, KTI digital embroidery, digital, basically Simporting embroidery machines, of getting improved in 2020. printing machineries, Wellknit all the segments. and day-by-day adding value added Circular Knitting Machine, Split

into orders in near future. Only e started Maatri company in serious buyers who are interested WJune 2019, but have been in starting business, want to invest associated with Lejia for last 12 years. in machines, and those existing It is among Zuji’s top 10 factories customers who want to upgrade making very good quality machine. We their existing set-ups are visiting have sold 80 machines in last six the show. We represent Tang months. At this exhibition, we have Jingwei brand all over India and displayed Super Ultra high speed look after their after sales service machine with 1500 rpm, and another 8 also. We want to provide best sequins machine. SEA and SGCCI have technology and service to done a very job by organising this customers always. Here we have show and taking everyone together displayed two machines 35X250 forward. I am 100 percent going to and 23X400, both have double participate in the next exhibition. This Virag Gilitwala Ashok Sharma sequins and cording. Last year, we year it’s going to be very good for Needle Craft Technologies (Tang) launched its high speed 1500 rpm Maatri Global Tradelink Surat industry, especially value machine but now 1200 rpm as per additions are expected to do well. We e are working in embroidery Surat market needs. SEA has done are working with Maatri in Jaipur and Wsegment and have sold around a good job, they brought everyone Surat, which will be expanded in 225 machines in last two years. together, allotted stall on the basis future. Besides, Lejia people have SITME has been organised very well of lottery system and that too of always supported us, taken our by SEA and SGCCI. We have received same size. SITME is expected to suggestions seriously and upgraded very good footfall and enquiries which perform better year by year. the machines accordingly. we are expecting to get converted

APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 77 Exhibitor comments...

from embroidery, we are doing digital machine and everything related to sublimation business also. We have this segment from top class just started but may add direct Chinese brand. Owners of the printing after a year. Here we are Yuemei brand have good technology displaying 3 embroidery and one experience which is the reason they sublimation printing machines. First are involved in development and machine has 27 head multi head upgradation of technologies directly. machine with 250 mm head distance, The ups and downs phase which second us 27 head 250 mm distance Surat was witnessing for last few with twin sequins device, third is 9 years is going to end, and in 2020 needle, 18 head in one machine embroidery is going to be the top which can do flat embroidery, twin trend. At this show we are sequins and cording work. Customers displaying technologies which are were really impressed by seeing Chinese but quality wise similar to Bharat A Patel, Priyanka Art three beads device work. At this Chirag Dawar Japanese. This is the best (Sheen Embroidery Machinery) show, we are meeting only quality Yuemei Alliance Machine- India exhibition in last 5 years in terms of customers who are clear about the response. It has been organised e have been associated with e started our business in 15 machine they want to buy. After really well. SEA and SGGCi have our Chinese principal since years ago and since than we W seeing lots of ups and downs in last W maintained the equality at the show. 2004. Our brand Sheen has always three years, Surat market is expected are associated with only one brand maintained its quality and given to take a big leap in 2020. i.e. Yuemei. We sell embroidery proper support to customers. Apart from Lejia at present. So, we grew and later added Siliconi, Groz up together with Surat market. We Beckert, Koban, Boss bearing, and are very lucky to have this big many others. We have recently market support us. And we also taken dealership of Champion support them by supplying high Company devices, which are added quality machine to Surat market to to machinery and are getting very help our customers win the good response from the industry. The business. Lejia is a big brand in kind of response we have received in China making high quality, high this exhibition is something never speed machines. World’s longest seen before. From day one to last 25 head machine has been made day there was no reduction in crowd. by Lejia. So, we have very good The hard work done by SEA and technology team. Surat market is SGCCI members has paid off. We very important for us. We have two are really thankful and convey our Sunny Lu agents Maatri and Shivarya Textile. Pradeep Ghori best regards to them for organising Zhejiang Lejia Electrical SITME has become the hottest S. P. Trading Co. such event. The show has been Machinery Co., Ltd. exhibition for our company in last organised at a time which is the three years. Last year market was e have been working and peak time of boosting the growth of ur factory was founded in 1989. a little slow, but the show has Wcatering to markets all over Surat industry. This year, we will OWe started embroidery machine given a good start to the year India since 2012. We deal in focus on introducing more devices in 2002 and came to Surat in 2004.In now. The exhibition has been embroidery machinery spares from as per the changing requirement of last 15 years, we are among the organised by Surat embroidery China. We are their dealers for all India high speed embroidery machines in biggest embroidery machine factory in association, especially for market, and the product is completely terms of quality. China. There are around 20,000 embroidery customers. made in China. We started with BZBS embroidery machines running in Surat

in this market. We are getting very he company was started in good feedback from customers about T2003. The embroidery their products. We got so many technology has been evolved so enquiries which will be materialised far and new developments were after the show. Here we are added in every six months. Our displaying 1500 rpm machine which Chinese company has always has auto oiling system, spray system provided new things and better on shuttle, separate pressure foot services to customers. We system on head. The machine is started cooperation with them nonstop running on 1500 rpm for last since 2009 and have maintained three days which no other machine in good relation with them. Since the show is doing. The response in 2006 this is the best exhibition till fantastic, we have not seen such day. We are more comfortable huge response in any other exhibition with SEA in organising this show. Kishor Bhingradia till day. Due to efforts of SGCCI and Mukesh Chovatiya Shivarya Textile Overseas Management, visitor quality, SEA, this has become India’s most Dolphin Embro India Pvt. Ltd. oragnisation, support, promotion successful exhibition.2020 is going to or last 15 years we are working in everything is upto the mark. 2019 be very good for Surat industry, and was an average year for all the Fthis industry. We got associated those who will keep on updating their with Lejia company for embroidery industries and I expect 2020 is technologies and follow latest trend going to a very booming year for machines seven months ago. They will have a promising future ahead. are giving us best quality to compete textile industry all over India.

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Earlier exhibitions were normally every sector in Surat, and organised between Feb to April, delivered 750 machines till day. which used to be followed by Gama gives us very good sales downtrend in industry but SITME support, service back-up and fast has been organised at a perfect response time. We are displaying time. Everybody wants to invest in our three lever pin, which is a something new, and at the time head with which multi head when market also grows along with machine runs at 1200 rpm, the same, it is like icing on the cording at 1200 rpm and sequin cake. SEA and SGCCI have put all at 1100 rpm. Our main business their efforts and team hard work, is embroidery machines, but we which together has made it a do digital printing also. At this successful show. The reason show, we witnessed met large behind our company SP trading’s number of customers every day. Haresh Kakadiya success is our team work. In future Dhiraj Patil This is the first exhibition where S. P. Trading Co. we are planning to add Saistar Impex we have taken bookings everyday. attachments to our offerings along In 2020, sequins market is going ccording to our customers’ ama is my suppliers name and with our existing spare parts range, to do really well. Innovation in feedback, January is the most Saistar my company’s name. A according to evolving fashion G value addition will be the important month as in coming year We started 5 years back and have industry trends. key to success. the market is expected to grow. supplied our machines in almost

solutions as per customers’ needs which is successfully continuing and area. We offer machines from till day. In this exhibition, there are Juki, Eastman, Richpeace, Konica so many machineries being Minolta, Hashima, Japsew, displayed with Dahao control Sunshine, Kansai, Groz Beckert, system like 8 colour sequins, and many other brands. We supply triple colour bead device and original Juki and other machine siding sequins that can work on spare parts. Apart from sarees, different needles etc. But Dahao the kurtis, leggings, shirts, has also tied up with a local trousers, denims market is company for the development of growing in Surat. In coming future under bobbin changer with good Surat is expected to grow as a performance results. There are huge garmenting hub. Here, we few prototypes of F Series models are displaying Juki direct drive with cloud based technologies, Chandrabhan Gosavi machine, Juki basic DD motor Jignesh Shah machine networking platform Bapu Traders machine, and other models from Stitchcare Controls Pvt Ltd (Dahao) which have been demonstrated Juki. Our experience at this here. We are displaying various n 2004 when the embroidery ur company was started in 2017, exhibition has been really good. new concepts, which people can machinery started flourishing in the Owhere we are offering complete We witnessed a lot of footfall. I add upto in their machines. It’s an Surat, the electronic parts service product set-up in garment industry like It has been organised and excellent show, organised very was done in an unorganised way. for setting up shirt, T-shirt, garment publicised very well. well at perfect time. We are really factories we provide all types of Dahao was the first embroidery thankful to SEA for coming up with company to establish its service this show and the hard work they center in India in 2006. In 2007 we have put in. Surat is a very run successful embroidery software started our office with complete set- important market, which is ready for all business types. At up in Surat. That was the first time to take up new technologies. ‘Stitchmax’, we’re dedicated to Dahao started its journey in Surat, creating an affordable and powerful embroidery software solution. We make embroidery software easy and e started this company in affordable for all levels of hobbyists W2008, but for last five and professionals. Incase you worry years we are offering digital about compatibility with your printing machines. Earlier we embroidery machine, know that our were doing two head, but now software is compatible with most we have three head machine, embroidery machines. It is licensed inks and imported sublimation embroidery software that comes paper. We only do imported with various features. The software Chinese sublimation and heat Vikesh Kothiya was launched six months back and transfer machines. The show is Stitchmax Solutions Llp got very good response from the better than previous industry. It has been completely exhibitions, and customers’ titchmax is enhanced embroidery developed in Surat but we are feedback have been really good. Sdigitizing software that comes catering to customers all over India. We have branches in Gujarat with high productivity and all Feedback at the show is really good, Rinav Nimavat and Mumbai but sell machines advanced feature of machine as our products generated a lot of Tirupati International all over India. Last year was embroidery designing. We have been enquiries and orders. really good for digital printing involved in the embroidery business and next year is going to be very for over 10 years. We developed and good for sublimation.

80 APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 e are supplying large amount his exhibition is very Wof the textile machinery under Tsuccessful. There are so the brand name "PIFRON". We offer many customers who are Air Jet, Pifron jet Sublimation interested in our machines. We Printer, Pifronjet Heat Press have increased our customer Machine and Water Jet. When base in last two years as many compared to other brands our new customers have added machines are more stable, better in Promaker to their range. My terms of quality and cost saving. machinery is of good quality, We also offer machines at low cost and we provide good service, so that those who want to enter this and are open to taking segment can start their business. suggestions from customers. Digital market is growing and till We want to give best service 2025 it will reach the saturation to our customers, which is the Rajen Bhagat point. Response at the show is Missy (Zheng Xiaofang) key to win their heart. We are Pifron Machineries really good; we got lots of enquiries Zhejiang Promaker Intelligent expecting to do very well in and bookings. SEA and SGCCI have Embroidery Equipment Co., Ltd. India market in 2020. done commendable job.

APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 81 Forthcoming trade events

INTERNATIONAL DOMESTIC

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EXHIBITION TRADE SHOW 10 – 12, February 2020 & TEXTILE FAIR 07 – 10, February 2020 23 – 25, July 2020 Venue: New York, USA 07 – 09, April 2020 Venue: Pragati Maidan, New Delhi Organizer: Capsule USA Venue: Dubai World Trade Centre, Dubai, UAE Venue: Bahadurke Road, Ludhiana Organizer: The Journal's Publication Organizer: SS Textile Media P. Ltd. Tel: +1 212-473-4523 Organizer: Nihalani Events UAE Tel: +91 98454 46570, 93425 66532 Tel: +971 55 884 6186 Tel: 9814020259, 161-5045061 TEXWORLD PARIS – SPRING INDIA INTL. KNIT FAIR YARNEX 10 – 13, February 2020 JIAM 2020 OSAKA 23 – 25, July 2020 17 – 19, February 2020 Venue: Le Bourget Exhibition Centre, Paris, France 20 - 23, May 2020 Venue: Pragati Maidan, New Delhi Venue: India Knit Fair Complex, Tirupur Organizer: Messe Frankfurt France S.A.S. Venue: Intex Osaka, Japan Organizer: SS Textile Media P. Ltd. Tel: +852 2238 9986 Organizer:JIAM Desk Messe Frankfurt Organizer: India Knit Fair Association Tirupur Tel: +91 98454 46570, 93425 66532 Japan Ltd. Tel.: +91 421 220 0022, 98431 48777 Tel: +81-3-6380-880 PREMIERE VISION-PARIS KNIT SHOW 2020 11 – 13, February 2020 FABRICS & ACCESSORIES 26 – 28, July 2020 Venue: Parc Des Expositions Paris Nord SCREEN PRINT UZBEK 2020 TRADE SHOW Venue: Velan Hotel Fair Ground, Tirupur Villepinte, Paris, France 27 – 29, May 2020 28 February – 01 March 2020 Organizer: Knit Show Trade Exposition Organizer: Premiere Vision SA France Venue: Kargazma Savdo Markazi Venue: Karnataka Trade Promotion Tel: +91 9443792612, 9443906810 Tel: +33 1 70 38 70 00 Exhibition Centre, Uzbekistan Organisation, Bengaluru, India Organizer: Aditya Exposition (P) Ltd. India Organizer: SS Textile Media P. LTD. INDIA INTERNATIONAL DHAKA INT'L TEXTILE & GARMENT Tel: +91 22 2614 9984, 98211 62820 Tel: +91 98454 46570, 93425 66532 MACHINERY EXHIBITION GARMENT FAIR 20 – 23, February 2020 GARMENTECH UZBEK 2020 29 – 31, July 2020 Venue: International Convention City 27 – 29, May 2020 FASHION CONNECT Venue: India Expo Mart, Greater Noida Bashundhara, Dhaka, Bangladesh Venue: Kargazma Savdo Markazi 28 Feb – 01 Mar 2020 Organizer: International Garment Fair Association Organizer: Chan Chao Intl. Co. Ltd. Taiwan Exhibition Centre, Uzbekistan Venue: KTPO Convention Centre, Tel.: +91-11-45859013 Tel: +886-2-2659-6000 Organizer: Aditya Exposition (P) Ltd. India Whitefeild, Bengaluru Tel: +91 22 2614 9984, 98211 62820 Organizer: SS Textile Media Private Ltd SCREENTEX INDIA 2020 DHAKA INTL. DENIM SHOW Tel: +91 93425 66532, 98451 19893 1 – 3, August 2020 26 – 29, February 2020 SPINEXPO PARIS Venue: Pragati Maidan, New Delhi Venue: Intl. Convention City, Bashundhara, Dhaka 29 – 30, June 2020 GARTEX TEXPROCESS INDIA Organizer: ASK Trade & Exhibitions Pvt. Ltd. Organizer: CEMS Bangladesh Bangladesh Venue: Carrousel du Louvre, Paris 19 – 21, March 2020 Tel: +91 9588128471, 044-43856156 Tel: +1–646–416–7902 Organizer: Well Link Consultants Hong Kong Venue: Bombay Exhibition Centre Mumbai Tel: +86 138 1750 2652 Organizer: Mex Exhibitions Pvt. Ltd./Messe GARMENT TECHNOLOGY EXPO (GTE) DHAKA INTERNATIONAL YARN & Frankfurt Trade Fairs India P. Ltd. 7 – 9, August 2020 FABRIC SHOW - WINTER EDITION THE GARTEX SHOW Tel: + 91-11-46464848, 67575990 Venue: Bangalore International Exhibition 26 – 29, February 2020 02 – 04, July 2020 Centre, Bengaluru Venue: International Convention City Venue: International Convention City INTERIOR LIFESTYLE INDIA Organizer: Garment Technology Expo Pvt. Ltd. Bashundhara (ICCB), Dhaka, Bangladesh Bashundhara (ICCB), Dhaka, Bangladesh 19 – 22 March 2020 Tel: + 91 9810143711, 9310029439 Organizer: CEMS Bangladesh Bangladesh Organizer: Limra Trade Fairs & Exhibitions P. Ltd Venue: Mumbai, India Tel: +88 02 48810267 ~ 81 Tel: + 88 02 9121405 Organizer: Messe Frankfurt Trade Fairs (I) P. Ltd GARTEX TEXPROCESS INDIA Tel.: +91 22 6144 5987 21 – 23, August 2020 INTL ISTANBUL YARN FAIR SPINEXPO NEW YORK Venue: Pragati Maidan, New Delhi 27 – 29, February 2020 14 – 16, July 2020 Organizer: Mex Exhibitions Pvt. Ltd./ Venue: Tuyap Exhibition and Convention Center, Venue: Brooklyn Expo Center, New York GARFAB – TX Messe Frankfurt Trade Fairs India P. Ltd. Büyükçekmece, Turkey Organizer: Well Link Consultants Hong Kong 20 – 22, March 2020 Tel: + 91-11-46464848, 67575990 Organizer: Tuyap Fairs & Exhibitions Tel: +86 138 1750 2652 Venue: Surat International Exhibition and Conventional Center, Surat Organization Inc. YARN FABRIC & ACCESSORIES Tel: +90 (212) 867 11 00 GARMENT MANUFACTURERS Organizer: Vardaan Events Pvt Ltd Tel: 80235 35859, 99161 72310 TRADE SHOW SOURCING EXPO 27 – 29, August 2020 INTERTEXTILE SHANGHAI 22 – 25, July 2020 Venue: Dana Mandi, Ludhiana APPAREL FABRICS Venue: Bangkok international Trade & FIBERS & YARNS EXHIBITION Organizer: Vision Communications 11 – 13, March 2020 Exhibition Centre, Bangkok, Thailand 09 – 11, April 2020 Tel: 9810872914, 9212707924 Venue: National Convention & Exhibition Organizer: Reed Tradex Thailand Venue: World Trade Centre, Center, Shanghai, China Tel: +66 2686 7222 Cuffe Parade, Mumbai Organizer: Messe Frankfurt Ltd. Hong Kong TEXINDIA Organizer: Tecoya Infotech 17 – 19, September, 2020 Tel: +852 2802 7728 DHAKA INTL. YARN & FABRIC SHOW Tel: 91-22-66978533, 9821434749 02 – 05, September 2020 Venue: India Knit Fair Complex. Tirupur Organizer: SS Textile Media P. Ltd. YARN EXPO AUTUMN Venue: International Convention City FABTEX EXPO 11 – 13, March 2020 Bashundhara, Dhaka, Bangladesh Tel: +91 98454 46570, 93425 66532 23 – 25, April 2020 Venue: National Convention & Exhibition Organizer: CEMS Bangladesh Center, Shanghai, China Tel: +88 02 48810267 - 81 Venue: World Trade Centre, YARNEX Organizer: Messe Frankfurt Ltd. Hong Kong Cuffe Parade, Mumbai 17 – 19, September, 2020 Organizer: Tecoya Infotech Tel: +852 2802 7728 TAIPEI INNOVATIVE TEXTILE Venue: India Knit Fair Complex, Tirupur APPLICATION SHOW Tel: 91-22-66978533, 9821434749 Organizer: SS Textile Media Private Limited MOROCCO FASHION & TEX FAIR 06 – 08, October 2020 Tel: +91 9845446570, 9342566532 25 – 28, March 2020 Venue: Taipei Nangang Exhibition Center, SUPER JUNIORZ Venue: La FoireInternationale de Casablanca, Hall 1, Taipei, Taiwan 15 – 17, June 2020 INTEX SOUTH ASIA Casablanca, Morocco Organizer: Taiwan External Trade Venue: Pragati Maidan, New Delhi 10 – 12, December 2020 Organizer: Pyramids Fair Group Turkey Development Council (TAITRA) Taiwan Organizer: Peppermint Communications P. Ltd. Venue: Pragati Maidan, New Delhi Tel: +90 216 575 28 28 Tel: +886(2)2341-7251 Tel.: 022-4095 6666 Organizer: Worldex India Exhibition & Promotion Pvt. Ltd. BANGLADESH INTL GARMENT & ITMA ASIA & CITME INMAC 2020: MUMBAI TEXTILE Tel: +91 (0)22 40376700 TEXTILE MACHINERY EXPO - 15 – 19 October, 2020 GARMENT MACHINERY EXPO CHITTAGONG EDITION Venue: National Convention & Exhibition 25 – 27, June 2020 INDIA ITME 02 – 04, April 2020 Center, Shanghai, China Venue: Bombay Exhibition Centre, Mumbai 10 – 15, December 2020 Venue: GEC Convention Centre, Organizer: Beijing Textile Machinery Organizer: Worldex India Exhibition & Venue: India Exposition Center, Greater Noida Chittagong, Bangladesh International Exhibition Co. China Promotion Private Limited Organizer: India ITME Society Organizer: RedCarpet365 Limited Bangladesh Tel: +32 (02) 706 79 32 Tel.: +(91)-(22) 40376700 Tel: +91 (0)22 22020032 Tel: +88 02 8871412 ,+8801715175552

(You are requested to reconfirm dates and other information from respective organisers prior to making your travel arrangements)

82 APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2020 83 RNI REGD. NO. DELENG/2002/06669