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NEWSLETTER

No. 175, October 2004 Quarterly issue, distributed free to all members.

Registered with the Civic Trust and the Forum of Amenity Societies. Registered Charity No.1058103.

www.brixtonsociety.org.uk

the site of Glenbrook Primary Council’s Renewal School. • Public Transport improvements to bid for be included in the overall design If you have ever waited for the 37 bus of the Town Hall and Brixton outside the Town Hall, you will Station Road areas. recognize the pattern – after a long (Continued on page 3) wait, three come along at once! Similarly with Lambeth Council initiatives, with several big projects and policies emerging together – and most of them focusing on the Brixton area. The Council has attempted to consider together the demand for local secondary schools, the sustainability of the Brixton Recreation Centre and rationalizing its own office facilities. Electric Avenue with its original glazed Around Brixton, the following proposals canopies, as seen c.1910-14. are now being consulted on: • A new secondary school on the site of the Shakespeare Road Work in Progress depot, with potential access also After a variety of events from the Lambeth from Loughborough Park. Country Show onwards, it has not been possible to produce another Newsletter in • Replacing the “Rec” by a smaller less than 3 months since the last issue, sports centre in Somerleyton but at least we have a good cross-section Road, alongside the railway, with of news for you. potential to supplement the school Inevitably some matters are still being facilities. sorted out as we go to press, and that • Major development of the “Rec” includes arrangements for our Winter and the adjoining Popes Road car Social – so expect to hear from us again park, to provide a mixed use site this side of Christmas. January will be the combining housing with new arts th 30 anniversary of launching the Society facilities, shops and parking. and it would be good to mark it in some • Major development around the way. Town Hall to provide improved office space, taking in the former Remember, if you want to see something Co-op store (Directions) in Acre in a future Newsletter, please send it to the Lane, Town Hall Parade and the Secretary, Alan Piper (by 1st December for derelict prefab in Porden Road. the next issue) at 82 Mayall Road, SE24 • Another secondary school just 0PJ, tel./fax (020) 7207 0347 or e-mail to: west of the old Parish boundary in [email protected] Clarence Avenue, using part of

Adv\ BSN\Oct 04 front 1 Diary of Events, Autumn 2004

Brixton Society Working party at 7 pm, in Wednesday 10 Nov. Lambeth Town Hall Committee - Southwark: (antechamber). A slide tour of “London’s In addition to our For details of this and occasional member most historic borough” other Forum meetings, presented by John events, our Executive contact the Town Centre Committee meets on the Beasley. 7-45 pm at office on (020) 7926 Herne Hill United Church second Thursday of most 1077. months to plan for those Hall, Herne Hill end of Red Post Hill, SE24. events, receive reports Tuesday 26 Oct. – from our representatives Herne Hill Society. on other bodies and Times Past: agree our responses to An evening of Wednesday 17 Nov. local developments. reminiscence, history and - Samuel Pepys in All meetings at 7-30 pm: interesting objects, presented by Robert Clapham the next one is at the Michael Green reports on Vida Walsh Centre, 2b Holden. 6-30 pm at Minet Library, Knatchbull his research into William Saltoun Road, SW2, on: Hewer’s mansion, where Road, SE5. Lambeth Archives. Samuel Pepys retired for 11 November the last 3 years of his life.

Thursday 28 Oct. – 7-30 for 8 pm at Clapham Links with Manor Primary School, Discover London: Belmont Road, SW4. other groups Free taster session on Clapham Society. Check with organisers local history for the over first in case of changes 50s, conducted by Alan since news reached us. Piper. 1 pm to 3 pm at Thursday 18 Nov. – Some events may be the Adare Centre, Adare Herne Hill: charged for, and most Walk, Leigham Court A profile presented by groups would welcome Road, SW16. To enrol Robert Holden. 8 pm at donations. phone (020) 7501 5564. the Phoenix Centre, Lambeth College. Westow Street, SE19. Until 31 October – Norwood Society Monday 1 Nov.- (local history group). Black Gold: A celebration of Black History of Park Hill: British people in Sport, The story of Sir Henry Saturday 20 Nov. – exhibition open 1 pm to 6 Tate’s home at Sir Horace Jones: pm, Wednesday to Common, A talk on one of the Sunday at the Black recently adapted as eminent Victorians Cultural Archives, 378 apartments. Presented interred in Norwood Coldharbour Lane (c/o by Cllr. Daphne Marchant Cemetery, by Mike Stock. Atlantic Road) SW9. & Brian Bloice. 8 pm at Jones was the City Black Cultural Archives. Woodlawns (Streatham Architect responsible for Darby & Joan Club) Tower Bridge, Smithfield Thursday 21 Oct.- Leigham Court Road, and Billingsgate markets. Brain of Lambeth: SW16. 2-30 pm at Chatsworth Streatham Society. Baptist Church, Finals of the annual Chatsworth Way, SE27. general knowledge quiz, Thursday 4 Nov. – Friends of West Norwood conducted by John Cemetery. Moore. 7-30 pm for 7-45 Annual Review start, Room 8 at Lambeth AGM, to review the past Town Hall (use main year and gather ideas for Monday 6 Dec. - corner entrance). talks and visits for the Brixton Area Forum Lambethans’ Society. year ahead. 7-30 pm at Community Assets the Vida Walsh Centre, Working party at 7 pm, Thursday 21 Oct. - 2b Saltoun Road, SW2 venue to be confirmed. Brixton Area Forum Lambethans’ Society. For details, contact the Town Centre office on Traffic & Transport (020) 7926 1077.

Adv\ BS\ News\ Oct 04 Diary.doc 2 Planning & Regeneration

Brixton Society Renewal Bid... Town Planning group (Continued from front page) Further afield, it is proposed to replace Would you like to feed your views into Mary Seacole House (the Social the town planning process? Services office in Clapham) and the nearby Clapham Swimming Pool and Some older members may recall that depot by a new library and leisure in the 1980s the society had a Town facilities, probably combined with other Planning sub-committee which met uses. A third new secondary school is regularly and responded to town also being planned for West Norwood. planning applications concerning the community in the Brixton area. A major factor is the running cost of existing buildings. In some cases This ceased mainly due to the decline there are high repair costs due to past in health of the convenor, the late Ken economies, poor design – or in the Dixon, since when matters relating to case of the multi-storey car park – 10 planning applications have been years of hesitation over its future. discussed at the society's executive Site values are high because of the meetings (usually at the end, and demand for private housing but past under pressure of time), and generally disposals for a quick profit have left it has been left to Alan Piper, as the Council with less scope to adapt to secretary to write to the planners. changing needs. And then there is the Council’s inability to plan secondary This is unsatisfactory for several school provision - despite an 11-year obvious reasons, and the not so lead time for current demand! obvious reason that Alan as a professional architect practising in These are complex proposals and we Lambeth can have conflict of interest need to use our local knowledge to issues on occasions. steer Lambeth to a realistic package. Criticisms have already been made I have offered to take some of the load that the various school sites are too from Alan's shoulders by reviewing restricted, or that demolitions would planning applications and responding write off too much past investment. to the most significant ones. However Please let us have your views soon so I am anxious not to do this as a one that we can feed them into the process man band with one man's esoteric of consultations. prejudices. Are any other members willing to restart the Town Planning Alan Piper. sub-committee? I would be happy to host it as a meeting round my kitchen X marks the grot? table. Alternatively we could try an e- We are often asked about listing old format, although as the information buildings to protect them from from the council comes in paper form, insensitive development, but the it would probably be easier to stick above article reminded me of a with conventional meetings. suggestion made a few months ago by

If anyone is willing to lend a hand in George Ferguson, president of the keeping the Brixton Society response Royal Institute of British Architects. He to planning issues as broad and urged a new grade X for buildings that sensible as possible, please email me ought to go, in contrast to those to be on [email protected] . kept, and invited nominations. Alternatively please ring me on (020) We would certainly be interested to 7924 0618 hear if there are any local buildings that you think should be removed (or David Warner. maybe just disguised?).

Adv\ BSN\ Oct 04 T Planning 3 Local History Focus

TOUR OF LAMBETH PALACE: Thursday 12 August

We had a good turnout for this event and two of our party were impressed enough to send in their comments:

Despite a rather overcast day, barring one short shower, the rain stayed away for the visit. The Archbishop of Canterbury has owned the Palace since about 1200. Its interior remains partly medieval, although there are examples of Tudor and Neo-Gothic architecture within the walls. Lambeth Palace sat almost opposite the old Palace of Westminster and the two were linked by a horse ferry across the Thames. Originally the Palace was closer to the river (as can be seen from some of the paintings which adorn the From an engraving of 1773, courtesy of Lambeth Archives interior).

During the last 800 years, the palace has played Our tour ended with a chance to look round the a part in British history; for example, when gardens. Near the house is an area restored by Thomas Cromwell and the Lords of the Council the wife of Archbishop Runcie which has a questioned Thomas More in the guardrooms in formal rose terrace and herb garden; beyond 1534 for refusing to sign the Oath of that a parkland-style area with masses of Supremacy. During and after the Civil War the mature trees, woodland and native planting. palace was used as a prison. The site is currently used as both offices for the Ann Dolphin Archbishop and as his home and official residence for entertaining. I have long wished to see the other side of the rather austere exterior, so this was an We started our visit with a short video on the opportunity not to be missed. The aspect that palace and the Archbishop’s work. After most of us are familiar with is Morton’s Tower passing some modern paintings, we moved onto (above) which is the main entrance into the the early 13th century crypt which was re- Palace. We went in by a side gate, leading to a discovered relatively recently. The main beautiful rose garden and terrace, overlooked by highlights of the visit were: various function rooms. We tend to forget that • The Library in the Great Hall (with its the Palace is not only a home for the Archbishop splendid hammer beam roof), which has of Canterbury and his family, and other some fine illuminated manuscripts as well as members of his staff, but also a working office many precious books; and a study centre. Because of this we were • The Guard Room on the first floor; unable to linger in any one area but the lady • The portrait gallery (of many Archbishops who acted as our tour guide was very both old and more recent) which leads to knowledgeable and made the tour very • the dining room and drawing room (used by interesting.

the Archbishop for entertaining royalty Long before bridges were built across this part amongst others) with wonderful views over of the Thames, there was a ferry connecting the the gardens; and th north and south banks at this place. Edward the • the Chapel which was built in the early 13 Confessor chose a site on the north bank for a century, badly damaged during WWII but monastery (Westminster Abbey) followed later since much restored. by the Palace of Westminster, and the area became the seat of government, so that bishops Adv\ BSN\ Tour LP 4 Local History Focus and nobles wanted to have houses not far from Open Day at Lambeth Archives it. In the library we could see a Deed of Exchange between Archbishop Walter and the Prior and Convent of Rochester for the acquisition of the Manor of Lambeth in 1197, when Lambeth House, as it was then called, began its long association with the Archbishops.

The oldest surviving part of Lambeth Palace is the Chapel, completed in 1234, but altered and added to many times since. Work completed in 1833 constitutes most of the Palace we see today. It would take too long to mention every room we saw, but the most fascinating was the Library. The Palace Library was England’s first “public” library, and it remains freely open for research, serving as the principal source for the history of the Church of England. It contains some 4000 documents, of which over 600 are medieval. Treasures of the collection include Diana Linskey (Membership Secretary) and Glyn the MacDurnan Gospels, written and illuminated Kyle (Chair) looking after our book-stall in the Minet in Ireland in the 9th Century and presented to Library during the Lambeth Archives Open Day on Canterbury by King Athelstan. Also a Gutenberg Saturday 25 September. Our thanks to all members Bible printed in 1455. I could have spent all day who took a turn on the stall. in this room, but we were only given 20 minutes! Blue Plaque unveiled to The overall impression was of a mixture of the beautiful and the austere, and a great sense of writer C.L.R. James history. Kings and Queens, Archbishops and Political activist, novelist, playwright, historian great names and events in the history of our and renowned cricket writer C.L.R.James (1901- country have all been associated with Lambeth 89) is now commemorated by an English Palace. Two rather homely displays that I Heritage Blue Plaque in Brixton. It was unveiled remember were the shell of a tortoise killed by a on Friday 8th October by his nephew, journalist careless gardener in 1753, having been brought Darcus Howe, at the official re-opening of the to the Palace by Archbishop Laud back in 1633, newly-extended Brixton Advice Centre in Railton and the gloves worn by Charles I on the Road. scaffold. From 1981 until his death on 31 May 1989, Please may we have other visits to interesting James lived on the top floor of 165 Railton places in Lambeth, preferably on a weekday. Road. It was while living here that he enjoyed I am sure there are many retired people in the the reputation of an elder statesman, giving a Brixton Society who would find it easier to attend wide ranging series of lectures on in such visits during the week rather than at 1983. weekends. Many thanks to everyone involved in arranging this visit – I thought it was a great Cyril Lionel Robert James was born in Trinidad success. on 4 January 1901, the son of a schoolteacher. Patricia Ware. He immersed himself in the history and culture of the small colonial society in which he grew up. During the 1920s, in addition to his growing Cinema Tour Success reputation as a cricket reporter, he began to We had a very good response to our joint tour write novels. with the Cinema Theatre Association on 12 James came to England in 1932, spending a September. 80 (plus) turned up for the morning year in Lancashire helping the great West Indian leg in Brixton, and we took over £70 from the cricketer Learie Constantine with writing his sale of postcards! We saw inside the Ritzy memoirs. James began to reach a wider (1910) and the Fridge (ex-Palladium of 1913) audience as a cricket writer, with occasional and pointed out others in the area before pieces appearing in what was then the moving on to Streatham for the afternoon leg. Manchester Guardian until the 1960s. Adv\ BSN\ Tour LP 5 Local History Focus

James’s move to London in 1933 marked his During the recent building works, BAC was increasing involvement in left-wing politics operating out of a converted stables on the other through the Independent Labour Party and the side of Shakespeare Road, previously the Trotskyist movement. In 1938 he produced a offices of their architects, Greenhill Jenner, now play “Toussaint L’Ouverture” about the slave based at Clerkenwell, EC1. (Incidentally, Nigel revolt in Haiti, with Paul Robeson in the title role, Greenhill says he is still looking for a new tenant followed in 1937 by a book on the subject. for the Shakespeare Road premises...). From 1938 to 1952 he lived and worked in the United States, producing some of his most Sources: English Heritage press release, with important political writing. additional details from Alan Piper and Brixton Advice Centre’s re-opening leaflet. In 1953 he returned to Trinidad and campaigned variously for decolonisation and the appointment of Frank Worrell as the West Indies’ first black Remembering Clapham Park cricket captain. However, he later broke with The Clapham Park “New Deal for Communities” Eric Williams, Trinidad’s first president, and was project covers an interesting area where the expelled in 1966, though his body was returned three “Town Centres” of Brixton, Clapham and there for his funeral in Tunapuna Cemetery. Streatham all have some influence – and the South Circular Road cuts through it too! Major As Darcus Howe pointed out, CLR James would changes are planned for its Council estates but have appreciated the fact that the plaque is a more holistic approach to regeneration actually on the Shakespeare Road frontage of includes health, employment and education the building, and in good company with several initiatives. As part of this, they are supporting a other literary figures commemorated by local Reminiscence Group for local residents over 50, road names, including Robert Burns Mews and aiming both to provide some gentle exercise for Derek Walcott Close. the memory cells, and to record local life before more changes take place.

Brixton Advice Centre Meetings are every 2 weeks on Wednesday The Advice Centre itself is by now something of mornings from 11 am to 12 noon, at All Saints a local institution, started in 1966 by volunteers Church, Lyham Road (New Park Road end) from Lambeth Council staff, at the inspiration of SW2. The next meeting is on 27 October and George Greaves, then the Community Relations the series continues until 16 February. Further Officer. Initially it operated from a hut behind details from Carlos Coke (Clapham Park NDC) Railton Methodist Church, then from 1972 in the on 020 8678 5935, or from Alan Piper. newly-rebuilt Community Centre. Eventually BAC was able to lease a shop building at 167 Discovering London Railton Road, and became an indispensable Brian Bloice currently has two series of talks part of the local community for legal and underway on Discovering (South) London’s financial advice. Local History: In the late 1970s, under its then director, Hartley Dean, it played a valuable role in co-ordinating At Morley College, Waterloo: residents’ objections to Council plans for Wednesdays 2 pm to 4 pm, Morley College, demolishing the surrounding area and then Westminster Bridge Road, SE1, enrolment/ hosted residents’ meetings with Council officers enquiries to (020) 7928 8501 (course 249). to discuss improvements. Probably its valued role as part of the social infrastructure helped it At Lambeth College, Streatham Centre: survive the 1981 riots intact, but the 1980s were Thursdays 1-30 to 3-30 pm, Adare Centre, hard times financially and at one stage No.167 Adare Walk, off Leigham Court Road, SW16. was repossessed due to unpaid rent. In the Enrolment/ enquiries (020) 7501 5564. 1990s funding from Brixton Challenge and Lambeth Endowed Charities allowed BAC to There’s also a “try before you buy” offer of a free buy No.167 outright. Further fund-raising Local History session at the Adare Centre (at enabled BAC first to acquire the adjoining corner least for over 50s) on Thursday 28 October shop, and then to combine and renovate both from 1 pm to 3 pm (see listing on page 2). properties. Adv\ BSN\ Tour LP 6 Environment and Community News

Underlying all work on the Community Strategy is the aim of improving how services are delivered and identifying sticking points where different agencies seem to pull in different directions.

Applying Lambeth’s The Environment Theme Group Community Strategy Two full meetings have been held and the interim chair is Alan Piper, current CEN For the past 2 years, discussions about Environment representative. In addition to the Community Plan have been at a very the Council’s Environment Department, general level, so the core document is the Environment Agency, London Wildlife mostly “motherhood and apple pie” Trust and Lambeth Friends of the Earth statements, but reality is now beginning to have been included so far. However there bite. Central Government, as the main is a need to get buy-in too from other sponsor of the Renewal process, is keen players whose policies can make a big to see tangible results and so is pressing difference, such as Lambeth Housing, the for measurable targets to be set for Planning Department and Network Rail. improvements in local services and living Working groups are being used to review conditions. At the same time, the full array the priority topics (below) in more detail. of specialist theme groups are finally We will also need some joint meetings or getting to grips with the practicalities of liaison with other theme groups where our delivering the strategy which the various objectives overlap. public bodies, community networks and business groups have signed up to. Environment Priorities: Joining in the Process Under the broad aim of a “cleaner and The normal cycle of annual elections for greener environment”, eight topics were community representatives on the steering included in the Strategy, and four of these have been selected for action in the group for Lambeth CEN and the board of Lambeth First has been delayed by the current year: current restructuring of Lambeth First. • A Bio-Diversity action plan, The number and mix of our • Improving transport networks, representatives will need to be adjusted to particularly walking, cycling and match the final pattern of theme groups, public transport; board and assembly. Meanwhile, to raise • Environmental crimes (e.g. awareness and promote direct contact dumping of hazardous materials), with the existing representatives, a “Big • Protecting & enhancing open Listen” event is being planned for Monday spaces and riverside. 8th November at 336 Brixton Road, SW9, Suggestions are also invited for what with a choice of afternoon or evening should be addressed in the year starting sessions to allow as many groups as April 2005. possible to send members along. Keeping in Touch: The Theme Partnerships Contact the Lambeth CEN administrator • Employment & Enterprise for details of events or to get your group on the mailing list: James Philip at (likely to include Education and [email protected] Arts representatives). or tel. (020) 7737 9463 or write to: • Health & Social Care (slightly CEN, c/o LVAC, 95 Acre Lane, SW2 5TU.. complicated by NHS structures). Alan Piper would like to thank all the • Housing (including the amenity societies and groups around the Tenants’ Council, leaseholders borough who already include him in their mailings. It’s not possible to appear at and housing associations many meetings but it helps to hear what’s among others) going on. If regular meetings or • Crime & Community Safety, networking would help you, we can • Children & Young People, support it with CEN resources. • Environment (see right). See page 1 for contact details.

Adv\ BSN\ Oct 04 LCU1 7 Environment and Community News

LAMBETH CREDIT UNION If you would like to find out more, please contact the Development Do you know that a Credit Union is Manager on 0207 708 8784, or: being formed in Lambeth? [email protected]

A Credit Union is a financial co- Doye Akinlade. operative, owned and managed by its members. Brixton Central Square Credit Unions are regulated by Acts of Further to coverage in our July issue, Parliament, the Credit Union Act 1979, Lambeth Council announced early in and Industrial and Provident Societies September that Gross Max had been Act 1965. The Financial Services selected as the landscape architects to Authority supervises Credit Unions. design the Central Square as a whole. Following consultations with the people of Lambeth by the Association Meanwhile, the Friends of Tate Library of British Credit Unions Limited & Gardens have been discussing (ABCUL) in 2001, it was unanimously plans for interim improvements to the agreed that Lambeth needed a Credit Gardens area immediately in front of Union. Since then, efforts have been the library. A key priority is to improve intensified by a Steering Committee the approach to the library itself. The drawn from across the Borough to Friends have meetings scheduled at bring the recommendations made by 6-30 pm preceding the Brixton Society ABCUL to fruition. main committee meetings (see page 2) or otherwise check with Glyn Kyle Lambeth Council supports the on (020) 7326 5070. proposed Credit Union and a dedicated officer was assigned to the Black Cultural Archives are continuing project. The Credit Union is also to pursue the renovation of Raleigh supported by a number of local Hall, guided by ABL Consultants. The organisations including Clapham Park Council have agreed in principle to New Deal, Lambeth First, Lambeth granting a 99-year peppercorn lease Endowed Charities, Waterloo Action which will open up several sources of Trust and Family Housing Association. funding, but the new centre may not open until 2009. A full time Development Manager was ADP appointed in February this year working with the Steering Committee and temporarily sharing the Southwark Cottage Listed Credit Union office in Denmark Hill. A rural survivor on the fringe of our The staff of ABCUL have trained area is Brashier’s Cottage, off New Steering Committee members and Park Road, near the top of Brixton Hill. work has reached an advanced stage It is the best preserved of several in the registration process. small cottages from c.200 years ago, but all have recently been threatened However, we still need your support. with overshadowing by a bulky new We need more members to join the development proposed for the vacant Union as many hands make light work. car dealership site fronting onto the We need every skill we can get in South Circular Road. Both the Brixton Lambeth. To be a member, you have and Streatham Societies have been to be living or working in Lambeth. supporting the local residents’ group in objecting to these plans, and the The advantages of being a member recent listing strengthens their case. are numerous. Low-cost borrowing, life insurance and dividends on your ADP. savings are all on offer.

Adv\ BSN\ Oct 04 LCU1 8