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Home , Canal basin, Castle Mill Stream, Cropredy, Enslow, Fenny Compton, Folly Bridge

WW GUIDE south

WW GUIDE to the south Bookended by bustling and the dreaming spires of Oxford, this is one of Britain’s inest rural . Roger Butler cruises south…

The classic view of Napton Locks: this is 9. RobiN SmiTheTT

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n football commentator’s parlance, the Oxford Canal is truly “a game of two halves”. The ‘’ runs from , near , to Ithe Stop House at Braunston – a distance of some 21½ miles. The ‘south Oxford’ carries on right through to Oxford, around 53 miles with no less than 38 locks. Its irst 5½ miles, to Napton Junction, are shared with the Grand . Improvements made in the 1930s by the Company gave it a GU character, but in fact the Oxford Canal Company never gave up title to this stretch. This is still recognised today in the signs along the which declare ‘Oxford Canal Walk’. Situated between two major junctions, and with a number of large marinas in the vicinity, this stretch is invariably busy. But its gently winding course through some Approaching Claydon Top Lock. a beautiful, peaceful countryside, together with some excellent rural moorings, makes this a pump house engine which lifted water back length to be savoured and not rushed. If you up to the summit section. HIstory should choose to sit out on a warm summer’s The inal two locks at the top of the light ommenced in the north evening you will be treated to a degree of are at Marston Doles. The juxtaposition of following an act of Parliament in quietness which must be relatively rare now lock, , cottage, former warehouse and 1769 and initially engineered by in the heart of . stabling, all in warm terracotta-coloured brick, C , the oxford Canal had At Napton Junction, the Grand Union strides make for a satisfying scene. only reached napton by 1775. a second away to the West beneath the This heralds the start of the uninterrupted act was required to raise more money distinctive 1930s Junction Bridge. Our course 11 miles of the Oxford’s summit pound. As in order to complete the canal to the is to the south past Wigrams Turn Marina, the crow lies, it is less than half that between hames in 1790, under the supervision the moorings and hire boats of Napton here and the beginning of the descent at of . It enjoyed a and on around Napton-on-the- Claydon. But this is Brindley at his most monopoly of trafic for just 15 years Hill, with its landmark windmill on the top, to unhurried. From Bridge 129 to Bridge 132 is before the , from the foot of the Napton light of nine locks. a 1½-mile detour around Wormleighton Hill, the Midlands to , was completed There are a few locations around the canal although these bridges are barely 600 yards in 1805. hen the gloves were off. where delays are to be anticipated, if apart on the ground! With the coming of the GJC journey not expected, and this is one! But consolation The Oxford is never generous of depth, but time assumed greater signiicance. comes by the way of some outstanding the going is generally much better now than he winding nature of the pioneering views across the gently rolling countryside. in the past. The passage is most pleasant oxford Canal soon became a liability. The main services are at the bottom of the when perched up on the cabin top, drifting Further acts paved the way for light, with another water point at the top. quietly along on a sunny summer’s afternoon. the canal to be shortened with the The Engine House Arm, off to the left on the There’s not even a to negotiate now; eradication of numerous twists and ascent, now provides long term moorings. It the two at were opened turns, though these improvements were was once used by boats bringing to the out in the late 1860s. The banks of the mostly on the northern section – which lost almost 14 miles by as early as 1834. he 91 miles to oxford became 77½. he southern section retains its winding character, though, particularly along the summit level. It remains a classic example of an 18th century contour canal. It shares part of its course with the ; the original intention to utilise the river right through Banbury was ruled out by Brindley. he short ¼-mile Dukes Cut to the hames above oxford, with just one lock, was completed privately in 1789 by the Duke of Marlborough (owner of Blenheim Palace). he canal company made the city centre connection via the , a backwater of the hames, and Isis (or Louse) Lock a few years later.

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A hire-boat from the Rose leet leaving Hardwick Lock. B

Looking down the Napton Flight from C Bridge 114. Claydon Lock 19. D

resultant cutting, still known as Fenny popular Lock (25) and Wharf. Tunnel, are now adorned in the spring If there’s a spot free above the lock, take by an abundance of wildlowers. Fenny the opportunity. If you’re doubly lucky Compton Marina offers all services then the family of nuthatches may be but not on Mondays, an increasingly active in the trees opposite, as they common practice it seems, so it always were when we stopped! There are a few pays to check ahead. more mooring spots between the lock At the disused railway bridge south and wharf bridge but below here is the of Bridge 139, we interrupted our , services and long-term cruise to look at the spillway and moorings extending for some distance. impressive expanse of Wormleighton The popularity of Cropredy relects . One of three built to feed the presence of the useful Bridge Stores, the Summit pound, it is close to where two attractive pubs, the mill over the seamlessly becomes Cherwell which joins us here and the , just a mile from the start warm honeyed stone and thatch of this of the canal’s descent into the Cherwell quintessentially English village – perfect valley. Bridge 141, Boundary Lift Bridge for an evening stroll. Some will know marks the spot! This is the irst of of Cropredy because of the famous many of the lift bridges (drawbridges) battle here in 1644; others for Fairport which so characterise the Oxford: they Convention’s high summer folk festival. were simple to construct, were an inexpensive way of bridging the canal E when money was short, and are now the bane of the single-handed boater’s life. We, however, would miss them! The descent starts at Claydon Top Lock, one of ive locks which sit comfortably in the landscape with an attractive grouping of red-brick former Canal Company buildings. Old stables are adjacent to the second lock. For a long time rather forlorn, they are now renovated and making a lovely home. Three further locks, Elkington’s, Varney’s and Broadmoor lower the canal to the ¾-mile pound above the ever

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Oxford Guide.indd 71 1/4/11 14:09:41 A King’s Sutton Lock. BANBURY TO THRUPP

ust four miles and another three the canal above Grants Lock and again at locks, Slat Mill, Bourton and Coles Lift Bridge (182), and its distant trafic JHardwick, lower the canal 22ft to drone may reduce the star rating of the Oxfordshire’s second town, Banbury. otherwise perfect mooring. But scenically Banbury is famous for its cross (no longer there’s much to admire, no less so than the original), the ‘ine lady on a white horse’ at King’s Sutton or Taver’s Lock where the or at least her statue and, for canal people, lockside cottage and the former company Tooley’s Boatyard. A historic yard in its own blacksmith’s shop, sit agreeably. There is a right, it was from here that Tom Rolt set off useful railway station here, and the pleasant on Cressy for the voyage chronicled in his village is a short walk up the hill. Incidentally book – which sparked the 20th have you noticed that since Banbury the century canal revival. bottom lock gates have been single and The boatyard, much redeveloped, now not, as more usually, mitred pairs? This was forms the focus of a museum near the another early cost-saving measure. helpful Tourist Information Centre. We After Nell’s Bridge Lock then comes the particularly enjoyed a visit to the neo- interesting Weir Lock. Although classical St Michael’s Church with a ine nominally just a one foot fall, it is diamond interior, and strolling through the town past shaped – not so much to accommodate the former Corn Factors building on the way several boats, but more for a suficient to the street market in the Horsefair. Don’t volume of water to balance the much forget the Banbury cakes made to that deeper Somerton Lock (12ft) which comes special recipe! All the big stores are here too, next. Is it the crossing from of course, and the shock of the canalside left to right immediately above the lock regeneration carried out some years ago which creates unexpected ‘eddies’ as the now seems to have mellowed. Those lock slowly empties or ills? It certainly is needing a supermarket will ind a Tesco responsible for an interesting approach north of the town centre (near the A423 when the river’s in spate, although the run- bridge), or a Morrison’s south of it. off is fortunately well fendered with timber Leaving Cropredy in the morning will see rubbing strakes. you at Banbury in around 2½ hours to arrive A mile below it is the useful boatyard mid-morning, a good time to take advantage at Aynho, with canopied wharf buildings of one of the popular moorings situated and all services. Now that the motorway along both sides of the canal between Tom is behind you, you can inally ind that Rolt Bridge and Banbury Lock. They are peaceful rural mooring – just back from currently limited to 48 hours, which seems Somerton Deep Lock, below Chisnell Lift more sensible than the ’24 hours only’ when Bridge (193). If you’ve been counting you’ll we were last here. Somewhat less reasonably, know that’s the 11th lift bridge since however, there’s no return for 28 days, making Banbury, although a number will have been it dificult for those with limited time to enjoy chained up in the open position. There are an out-and-back cruise of the Oxford. still more to come! There are other moorings below the Arguably, between Somerton and the lock (and the services), but until a much Heyfords, the Oxford Canal is at its best mooted redevelopment takes place, these as it meanders down the valley with the are less inviting. Indeed, the exit south from Cherwell always close at hand and lovely Banbury leaves a little to be desired but it’s views across the water meadows with not long before rurality returns. pollarded willow and quietly grazing cattle. For the next half dozen miles the M40 has All is peaceful now since the US Air Force sadly, since 1990, shared the valley. It crosses base at Upper Heyford has closed (1993).

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B Heyford Common Lock. C Northbrook Lock.

D E

We chose to moor, not at the remote Heyford Common Lock, but below Allen’s Lock, for lunch and exploration on foot. Here, a track affords easy access to the village road, past the pretty church, with its cemetery and poignant military straight rows of grave stones and on up past Lift bridges are common Canalside cottages thatched stone cottages with pretty gardens – this is Bridge 219. at Thrupp. full of lower, to the Barley Mow. This is now the sole remaining pub in the village: any other river after heavy rain with ‘fresh’ its neighbour, along with the shop, closed running, a healthy respect and a degree of WaLKIng & CyCLIng when the American airmen returned home. caution is called for. The manor house and handsome stone tithe Shipton Weir Lock itself, with a fall of he Oxford Canal Walk was the barn are best seen from the canal when around 2½ft, is idyllically situated – another irst waymarked canal walk in the underway again towards Mill Lift Bridge of diamond shape capable of taking more Tcountry, established by BW in the (205), interestingly made in steel not wood. than one craft. The footbridge over the tail is 1990s. hough the initiative has rather Mr Pearson in his guide to the canal claims ideal for the photographer. been neglected in recent years, it’s a this was in order to take the weight of the Picturesque views of the churches at terriic idea – putting the towpath on a miller’s traction engine – an explanation so Hampton Grey and Shipton-on-Cherwell, par with the well-known national Trails and other long-distance footpaths. appealing it must be true! and a wide now occupied by boats of the you’ll still see many signs along the brings a bustle of activity Canal Cruising Club, precede our arrival route with a colourful, mock-canalia associated with the hire base there, with all at Thrupp. Boaters’ facilities are on the design, pointing you to Oxford in one facilities including a welcoming and popular offside of the winding hole (for pump-out, direction and Coventry in the other. café. There is then something of a change, obtain the card from the club’s mooring Walks between Oxford and Banbury as the Oxford begins to thread its way along oficer). Here the canal turns through a are particularly easy, with railway a pleasantly wooded stretch via Dashwood right-angle beneath Aubrey’s Lift Bridge stations along the way at (a and Northbrook locks to peaceful, informal (221); the visitor moorings are along the signposted walk up a wide track), Lower overnight mooring half a mile below Old towpath now on the right. The road over heyford (canalside), and King’s Sutton. Brighton Bridge (212). the bridge leads to the former BW yard, Disappointingly, although the railway Pigeon’s Lock, quite close to but remote two attractive thatched cottages and now stays within reach for several miles, the from the villages of Tackley and ‘Annie’s’, a popular tearooms. Our arrival stations dry up north of Banbury; but if (accessible via a gravel track), is the last coincided with trials of the bridge following you’re moored up and fancy a stroll, there before reaching the Rock of Gibraltar! That’s the very recent installation of electrically are ine off-piste walking opportunities actually the name of the pub at , operated to raise and lower it. The around Wormleighton, Marston Doles once an important wharf where cement frequency of boat passages at this location and napton. from a nearby factory, now largely hidden will demand a high degree of reliability. although permits in the woods, was brought by boat to be Here’s hoping! you to cycle the Oxford Canal towpath, transhipped to rail. Two pubs, the Boat at the far end of the generally you wouldn’t want to. It is mostly narrow and bumpy; only the Baker’s Lock brings the canal to that attractive row of canalside cottages, and section in Oxford city itself is at all stretch shared with the Cherwell. On the Jolly Boatman a little further on, help to tolerable on a bike. From Oxford to relection, perhaps this is the Oxford at its ensure the popularity of the Thrupp visitor Banbury, the cyclist’s best bet is to follow best: deep, clear water beneath the hull, a moorings – some with a 48-hour limit, ’ national Cycle route 5 on quiet handsome footbridge arching over the river others seven days. The latter are sought lanes – set to be linked to the centre as it joins from the right and a meandering after by those wishing to take advantage of Banbury by a new canal bridge and mile between banks lined with rush and lily of convenient buses to the supermarket in towpath improvements. Cycle hire is through to Shipton Weir Lock. The warning , or to visit nearby Blenheim Palace available at Oxfordshire narrowboats’ signs remind though that the journey may (3 miles) – or indeed the many attractions of Lower heyford base. not always be placid and tranquil. As on Oxford if not boating on down.

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fter Thrupp, the character of the either side sought, and the debate rattles Oxford subtly begins to change on. Meanwhile the towpath carries a Aagain. Between Roundham and seemingly constant stream of students and Kidlington Green Locks, the dons on foot and on bicycle, all, it appears, suburbs of Kidlington start to encroach late for lectures! and lengthy linear moorings dictate the The canal continues beyond here to pace of passage. Immediately below the attractive on the right and Duke’s Lock (or Shuttleworth’s Lock, now situated amongst the trees. Until the mid designated 44A), there’s a decision to be 19th century, the lock was of wide-beam made - turn right into Duke’s Cut to the dimensions, enabling to trade up Thames or continue straight on via the to the basin. To the left, the canal carries ‘back door’ into Oxford along the canal. on for a few hundred yards before ending The former, the short Duke’s Cut, tamely, and prematurely, at initially somewhat overgrown and Street. There are no visitor moorings here unprepossessing, rises through the single now, just a few permanently moored Duke’s Cut Lock (44B). This once had paired boats, and no winding hole. Boats up to gates which enabled operation whether 50ft can wind above the lock, but longer the river level was above or below that in boats must drop down through the lock the cut. This is no longer necessary with and wind below. today’s river level controls, but the recess The canal once ended at Hythe Bridge for the extra gate remains. Basin, with and New Road Now that you are entering Environment Wharves beyond the bridge. Regrettably, Agency waters a Thames licence is, of the basin was illed in by Nufield College course, required. This can be bought in in the 1930s and 40s, and the (recently advance, or purchased upon arrival at named) Duke’s Cut pub now looks the irst lock. If you head south on the rather lonely across the car park! Local Thames, then a lovely, winding river mile enthusiasts have long campaigned for the immediately sets the mood, bringing you to basin to be reinstated, but to no avail yet. Kings Lock and offering the opportunity to Those with a Thames licence may complete the Oxford Ring anticlockwise via choose to carry on through the lock the famous Trout Inn at Bridge, and Stream below, to the , Port Meadow, The Perch at Sheepwash Channel, once a backwater Binsey, the Sheepwash Channel and up of the Thames. Here you will ind the through Isis Lock back onto the canal – a now listed rusting remains of the very pleasant seven-mile round trip! windlass operated railway , If you opt to continue directly into complete with track, which once crossed Oxford along the canal, then there’s a this narrow channel. It was operated by little more work to be done. First are the signalman who was summoned by the two lift bridges 233 and 234, with the boater via a dedicated bridge-side A a reputation for being hard to lift; it’s telephone. Reportedly last used in 1984, probably best to deploy the biggest the bridge was oficially decommissioned and strongest member of the crew. the following year (WW June 1985). After Lock (45) and a linear Turning left onto the Thames at the mooring community, there is just one watery crossroads known as Four , inal lift bridge, usually to be found open. you soon pass under Bridge – where The two former lift bridges after this have there are excellent visitor moorings to now been replaced by ixed overbridges. the right, above . The bridge is Once with a poor reputation, this stretch relatively low (7ft 6in) and is the one which into Oxford has much improved over recent effectively dictates the air draught of boats years with some new-build and attractive heading to the Upper Thames, maintaining gardens of now fashionable Victorian the quietness of the upper reaches. houses sloping down to the water on the A third alternative for mooring in Oxford offside. A convenient service block (no is to continue through Osney Lock and pump-out) has been provided en route cruise on to and beneath near Bridge 238. Several sections have been (built in the 1820s), where Salter Brothers’ designated as conservation areas, where tripboats are based. This area of Oxford is mooring is prohibited, to help ‘green’ the known as , and below here you corridor – and protect the water voles! can join the interesting variety of wide and There are suitable visitor moorings narrowbeam craft which share moorings north of Isis Lock near to College Cruisers’ in the attractive location opposite hire base, opposite St Barnabas Church Christchurch Meadow. A convenient 15- and the former boatyard at Jericho. Here, minute walk takes you back over Folly appropriately enough, a battle has been Bridge, along St Aldates and into the city. fought (with celebrity backing) to retain From here, too, you’re perfectly placed to Wolvercote Lock the facilities here in the face of complete the Oxford Ring in a clockwise on the outskirts development proposals. High boards and direction up the Thames and back onto the of Oxford. bare hard-standing are not what Oxford Canal via Duke’s Cut.

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Kidlington Green Lock. The Bridge of Sighs.

OxFORD ince the 13th century, Oxford’s reputation has been founded on its Suniversity colleges. Most are open to visitors, although some make a small charge for you to stroll round their quadrangles, B ‘chill’ in their cloisters and generally imbibe the environment of academia. C D Visit the Carfax Tower, too, and the Sheldonian heatre, of architecturally ground breaking design by Sir Christopher Wren and where graduates are now awarded their degrees. Stairs lead from the wonderful auditorium with its painted ceiling, up to the loor of the cupola (dome) supported on an impressive complex of massive oak beams and from where the various landmarks can be spotted, perhaps using the 360° compass Roundham Lock. guide available to satisfy even the most inquisitive. he phrase ‘dreaming spires’ E Ascending from the Thames acquires its full connotation from up here! through Isis Lock. Aicionados of Morse and Lewis will want to tour the locations made famous in Colin Dexter’s novels. hese are probably best spotted when strolling the bustling streets and alleys which crisscross the centre - the White Horse, the Randolph Hotel, the Turf Tavern, Blackwell’s Bookshop… the list could go on. he Oxford of Inspector St Barnabas’ Church Morse by Anthony Richards is available to and Jericho Boatyard. help (published by Philip Atwell for £4, and available, of course, in Blackwells bookshop F – an emporium perhaps rivalled only by Foyles in London). Oxford has countless cafés and sandwich shops, but the Covered Market should be irst call for fresh, though expensive, specialist food. Take a breath here before an afternoon, or much longer, in the world famous Ashmolean Museum (no charge), the Museum of Modern Art, the Museum of Oxford, the University Botanic Gardens, or… If in danger of architectural and intellectual overload, you can pause to enjoy the uncertain efforts of novice punters on the Cherwell from , or by taking a table at the Head of the River by the water’s edge at Folly Bridge, to watch the manoeuvres of the Salter Brothers steamers preparing to transport another party of happy trippers, just as they have for the last 130 years. Or just sit back and be chauffeured The attractive Duke’s Lock, just around the city on an open-topped bus, with above Duke’s Cut. their hugely well-informed guides.

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Oxford Guide.indd 75 1/4/11 14:13:55 WW GUIDE south oxford Canal * canalside A PiNT AT EACH END BEST of the rest here’s probably only one issue that might polarise the WW readership he Bridge, Napton*: Attractive more than “which is the best pub in canalside pub with comfortable Braunston?”, and that’s the old pump- sofas. Good value food in the large restaurant. Look out for the water Tout/cassette question. But sufice it to say you’ll buffalo burgers… never go thirsty. The canalside Boathouse* is a large Marstons establishment with two-for-one he Folly, Napton*: Traditional, meals. The Admiral Nelson*, beside the locks on slightly eccentric pub at the bottom the Grand Union, has had its ups-and-downs of the light with real ale, pub grub in recent years. The Old Plough, in the village and a roaring ire. Don’t miss the centre, has good beer, a friendly welcome and excellent food from local suppliers yet still canal shop next door where you can warming home-cooked food. The Wheatsheaf, preserving the character of a real pub. The buy water buffalo steak! on the village green, is a locals’ pub with real newly revived Duke’s Cut by the old Worcester Wharf Inn, Fenny Compton*: Proper ale, live music and even a Chinese takeaway. We Street is a clean and cosy pub with canalside pub with well-kept beer; wouldn’t presume to rank one above the other… Brakspears ales. And don’t miss the tiny White burgers a speciality. Excellent canal As beits a university town, there’s a pub Horse on Broad Street, the always packed shop on the premises, well stocked around every corner in Oxford – many of Turf Tavern nearby, the Jericho Tavern where with provisions and including a them excellent. Gourmets will appreciate the Radiohead played their irst gig, the Eagle & handy launderette. canalside Anchor* (by Bridge 240), serving Child (St Giles) beloved of Tolkien and C.S. Lewis… Red Lion, Cropredy: Unspoilt thatched pub, mentioned by Tom Rolt in Narrow Boat, with superb steaks NAVIGATION NOTES and Sunday roast. ales and themed food nights. ★ The Oxford Canal runs from Hawkesbury Junction, near Coventry, to Oxford. It is informally split into the ‘north Oxford’ and ‘south Oxford’ at Braunston. The section from Braunston Turn to Napton Brasenose Arms, Cropredy: Another Junction is shared with the Grand Union Canal; elsewhere the canal is narrowbeam. ine country pub, featured on the ★ Extensive marina development makes the canal very busy in the Braunston/Napton area. South of cover of Fairport Convention’s Nine. Napton, though still busy, the canal retains its original winding course and offers unhurried cruising. It More upmarket than it once was but is almost entirely rural, with pleasant passages through Banbury and into Oxford itself. still with good beer and live music. ★ From Banbury to Oxford, lift-bridges slow progress (though many are left in the upright position), and those approaching Oxford can be particularly heavy. Historic practice was to use a ‘Banbury stick’ Ye Olde Reindeer, Banbury: Banbury to prop the bridge open. has comparatively few good pubs (especially since the closure of DIMENSIONS the late lamented Woolpack); the ★ Length 72ft, beam 7ft, draught 2ft 9in, headroom 6ft Reindeer, on the pedestrianised Parsons Street, is the best of the lot. BOATYARDS Hook Norton ales (of course) and Hire Repairs Pump-out Diesel Chandlery Braunston Boats lunchtime food. Cromwell once 01788 891079 - 4 - - - stayed here and the wood-panelled Braunston Marina Globe Room looks little changed. 01788 891373 - 4 4 4 4 Union Canal Carriers, Braunston Great Western Arms, Aynho*: 01788 890784 4 4 4 4 4 he railway gives this ine Hook Wharf House Narrowboats, Braunston Norton house its name and a 01788 899041 - - - - 4 selection of memorabilia, but it’s Napton Narrowboats right by the canal, too. Recently 01926 813644 4 4 4 4 4 refurbished, it has characterful but Cowroast Marinas, Fenny Compton affordable food, a blazing ire and a 01295 770461 - 4 4 4 4 real country feel. Sovereign Wharf, Banbury 01295 275657 - - 4 4 - Kizzies, Lower Heyford*: Tooley’s Boatyard, Banbury his remarkable canalside bistro/ 01295 272917 day 4 4 4 4 restaurant/greasy spoon, part of the Walker Services, Aynho Oxfordshire Narrowboats base, 01869 338483 - 4 4 4 4 does excellent food during the day Oxfordshire Narrowboats, Lower Heyford and a ine selection of bottled ale 01869 340348 4 4 4 4 4 and cider. Who could resist a fry-up Kingsground Narrowboats, Enslow called ‘Jamie Oliver’s Nightmare’? 01869 233444 - 4 4 4 - Popular with walkers, cyclists and College Cruisers, Oxford boaters alike. 01865 554343 4 4 4 4 4 Rock of Gibraltar, Enslow*: Cheerful NAVIGATION AUTHORITIES pub with the perfect canalside garden ★ British Waterways (South East): 01908 302500 and warming, honest food. SOCIETIES Boat Inn, hrupp*: Classic waterside ★ IWA Oxfordshire Branch: 01494 783453 pub in this tiny canal village with OTHER MAPS AND GUIDES Greene King beers. ★ Nicholsons Guide: 1 – Grand Union, Oxford and the South-East Jolly Boatman, hrupp*: At the ★ Ordnance Survey Landranger: 151 (Stratford-upon-Avon and ) and southern end of the village. Boater- 164 (Oxford and ) friendly and more down-to-earth ★ Pearsons Canal Companion: Oxford and Grand Union than the Boat, it has greatly ★ GeoProjects: Map of the Oxford Canal improved recently.

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