Ciao, Bella NEW YORK — They Say All Roads Lead to the Eternal City, and Diane Von Furstenberg Took That Thought to Heart

Home , Amanda de Cadenet, Austin Scarlett, Julie Haus, Karen Elson, Miss Kittin, Prairie skirt

WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’SATURDAY Daily Newspaper • September 10, 2005 • $2.00

new york Spring ’06 Ciao, Bella NEW YORK — They say all roads lead to the Eternal City, and Diane von Furstenberg took that thought to heart. For spring, the designer found inspiration in the glamour of Rome, including, she says, “the Cinecittà, paparazzi, movie stars and principessas.” For more on what’s driving the designers this spring, see pages 23 to 30. Plus: Badgley Mischka Rides Again, The Newest Models and Bryan Bradley’s Library 10 Feet • 575 Denim • Adam + Eve • AG Adriano Goldschmied • Agent R.E.D. International • AKA New York • Ama • American Retro • Amo & Blue 2 Jeans • Blue Concept • Blue Cult • Body Wrap Innovation • Botkier Handbags • Bracha Baron • Butterfly Dropout • California Vinta Cynthia O'Connor & Company • Denim for Immortality • E.vil • Ella Gonen • Elvis • Emmelle • EMYU (CoComara) • Eternal Child • Ever • F.A.A G-1 • Gauge • Gazebo • Gefilte Fishe • Grail • Gustto • Hard Tail/Hard Tail Jeans • Iconic • Imitation • Inca • James Cured by Seun • Just Yves by Yves Castaldi • Kasil Inc. • Katomenta • Kedem Sasson • Kiss My Feet • Kooba • Landes Daily • L'Atelier LA • Laurie B • Lee Marithé et François Girbuad • Masaki Kyoko • Meltin' Pot • Michael Stars • Minette • Minnie Rose • Missoni Sport Wo Nuala by Puma • Odyn • Paola Frani • Paper Denim & Cloth • Paramita • Parasuco Jeans • People For Peace • Peoples Pulcini • Purp7e • Ranna • Raw-7 • Roberta Chiarella, Inc. • Roberto Cavalli • Rock & Republic • Royal Plush • S.Los Angeles • Sacred B Simply Chic Showroom • Skyla • Smith's American • So-Low • So-Low Jeans • Soya • Steven Alan Showroom • Sweet & Toxic • Sweet Romeo • Swell Swell by Kor True Religion Brand Jeans • Twilltwentytwo • Twisted Heart • Ula Paso • Union • Von Dutch • William Rast • Wrangler 47 • Wrang Agent R.E.D. International • AKA New York • Ama • American Retro • Amo & Bretti • Anny & Adi Jacobson • Antik Denim • Apropo Showroom Botkier Handbags • Bracha Baron • Butterfly Dropout • California Vintage • Candela • CBGB Denim • Chamak • Chick by Nicky Hilton E.vil • Ella Gonen • Elvis • Emmelle • EMYU (CoComara) • Eternal Child • Ever • F.A.A. Ltd • FAL Fashion Active Lab • Fashion's Group USA • Felix Hard Tail/Hard Tail Jeans • Iconic • Imitation • Inca • James Cured by Seun • Jana Feifer Inc. • Jelessy • Jocelyn • Jordach Kedem Sasson • Kiss My Feet • Kooba • Landes Daily • L'Atelier LA • Laurie B • Lee Premium Denim • Left Field • Lemon • LeTigre • Level Michael Stars • Minette • Minnie Rose • Missoni Sport Women • Mode Acote • Morphine Generation • Motif 56 • Muchacha • Paramita • Parasuco Jeans • People For Peace • Peoples Liberation • Pia Hallstrom • PierAntonioGaspari • Polo Jeans Company Rock & Republic • Royal Plush • S.Los Angeles • Sacred Blue • Salt Works • Sam and Billy • Sao Paulo • Sean by Sean Combs Soya • Steven Alan Showroom • Sweet & Toxic • Sweet Romeo • Swell Swell by Koronn • Switch • Tashia London • Taverniti So Jeans • Teddy Smi Ula Paso • Union • Von Dutch • William Rast • Wrangler 47 • Wrangler Premium Patch • Yanuk • Yesterday Never Dies • Yoshi Yoshi by P Amo & Bretti • Anny & Adi Jacobson • Antik Denim • Apropo Showroom • The Avalon Group • Beau & Eros • Bellekat • BGN Fr • Big Star Jea California Vintage • Candela • CBGB Denim • Chamak • Chick by Nicky Hilton • Cimarron • Cinderella Red • CK39 • Coexist • Country Girl • Cre Ever • F.A.A. Ltd • FAL Fashion Active Lab • Fashion's Group USA • Felix Rey • Female • Ferran-New York • Flavio Olivera • Frank & Kahn • Fre James Cured by Seun • Jana Feifer Inc. • Jelessy • Jocelyn • Jordache Vintage • Josh Podoll • Joyaan • Juicy Couture • Julie Laurie B • Lee Premium Denim • Left Field • Lemon • LeTigre • Level 99 • Looney Tunes/DC Comics • Lynne Larson • Mackage • Made U Look Mode Acote • Morphine Generation • Motif 56 • Muchacha • Multiple Origami • Nexus Showroom • Nine Lives • Not Rational • Nuala by Pia Hallstrom • PierAntonioGaspari • Polo Jeans Company • Post Vegas • Project Alabama • Proper Fools Showroom • Pulcini • Purp7e • R Sam and Billy • Sao Paulo • Sean by Sean Combs • Sharon Segal Shelly Steffee, Inc. • Shinobu • Shirt Passion • Sigal Dekel • Simply Chic Showr Tashia London • Taverniti So Jeans • Teddy Smith • Thorn • Toast • Tocca Handbags • Topless • Torn • Triple 5 Soul • T Wrangler Premium Patch • Yanuk • Yesterday Never Dies • Yoshi Yoshi by PJ • Zin • 10 Feet • 575 Denim • Adam + Eve • AG Adriano Apropo Showroom • The Avalon Group • Beau & Eros • Bellekat • BGN Fr • Big Star Jeans USA, Inc. • Blue 2 Jeans • Blue Concept • Blue Cult • Chick by Nicky Hilton • Cimarron • Cinderella Red • CK39 • Coexist • Country Girl • Creme Fraiche • Cynthia O'Connor & Company • Denim for Im Felix Rey • Female • Ferran-New York • Flavio Olivera • Frank & Kahn • Fred Perry Ltd. • G-1 • Gauge • Gazebo • Gefilte Fishe • Grail • Jordache Vintage • Josh Podoll • Joyaan • Juicy Couture • Julie Haus • Julie Sandlau • Just Yves by Yves Castaldi • Kasil Lemon • LeTigre • Level 99 • Looney Tunes/DC Comics • Lynne Larson • Mackage • Made U Look • Marithé et François Girbuad • Masak Motif 56 • Muchacha • Multiple Origami • Nexus Showroom • Nine Lives • Not Rational • Nuala by Puma • Odyn • Paola Frani • Pap Polo Jeans Company • Post Vegas • Project Alabama • Proper Fools Showroom • Pulcini • Purp7e • Ranna • Raw-7 • Roberta Sao Paulo • Sean by Sean Combs • Sharon Segal Shelly Steffee, Inc. • Shinobu • Shirt Passion • Sigal Dekel • Simply Chic Showroom • Skyla • Smith' Taverniti So Jeans • Teddy Smith • Thorn • Toast • Tocca Handbags • Topless • Torn • Triple 5 Soul • True Religion Brand Je Yanuk • Yesterday Never Dies • Yoshi Yoshi by PJ • Zin • 10 Feet • 575 Denim • Adam + Eve • AG Adriano Goldschmied • Agent R.E.D. Internation Beau & Eros • Bellekat • BGN Fr • Big Star Jeans USA, Inc. • Blue 2 Jeans • Blue Concept • Blue Cult • Body Wrap Innovation • Botkier H Cinderella Red • CK39 • Coexist • Country Girl • Creme Fraiche • Cynthia O'Connor & Company • Denim for Immortality • E.vil • Ella Go Ferran-New York • Flavio Olivera • Frank & Kahn • Fred Perry Ltd. • G-1 • Gauge • Gazebo • Gefilte Fishe • Grail • Gustto • Hard Tail/H Josh Podoll • Joyaan • Juicy Couture • Julie Haus • Julie Sandlau • Just Yves by Yves Castaldi • Kasil Inc. • Katomenta • Kedem Sas Looney Tunes/DC Comics • Lynne Larson • Mackage • Made U Look • Marithé et François Girbuad • Masaki Kyoko • Meltin' Pot • Multiple Origami • Nexus Showroom • Nine Lives • Not Rational • Nuala by Puma • Odyn • Paola Frani • Paper Denim & Cloth • Post Vegas • Project Alabama • Proper Fools Showroom • Pulcini • Purp7e • Ranna • Raw-7 • Roberta Chiarella, Inc. • Roberto Cavalli Sharon Segal Shelly Steffee, Inc. • Shinobu • Shirt Passion • Sigal Dekel • Simply Chic Showroom • Skyla • Smith's American • So-Low • So-Low Jeans • Soya • Thorn • Toast • Tocca Handbags • Topless • Torn • Triple 5 Soul • True Religion Brand Jeans • Twilltwentytwo • Twisted H Yoshi Yoshi by PJ • Zin • 10 Feet • 575 Denim • Adam + Eve • AG Adriano Goldschmied • Agent R.E.D. International • AKA New York • Ama • A BGN Fr • Big Star Jeans USA, Inc. • Blue 2 Jeans • Blue Concept • Blue Cult • Body Wrap Innovation • Botkier Handbags • Bracha Ba Coexist • Country Girl • Creme Fraiche • Cynthia O'Connor & Company • Denim for Immortality • E.vil • Ella Gonen • Elvis • Emmelle • EMYU Frank & Kahn • Fred Perry Ltd. • G-1 • Gauge • Gazebo • Gefilte Fishe • Grail • Gustto • Hard Tail/Hard Tail Jeans • Iconic • Imitati Julie Haus • Julie Sandlau • Just Yves by Yves Castaldi • Kasil Inc. • Katomenta • Kedem Sasson • Kiss My Feet • Kooba • Landes Daily • Made U Look • Marithé et François Girbuad • Masaki Kyoko • Meltin' Pot • Michael Stars • Minette • Minnie Rose • M Not Rational • Nuala by Puma • Odyn • Paola Frani • Paper Denim & Cloth • Paramita • Parasuco Jeans • Pe Proper Fools Showroom • Pulcini • Purp7e • Ranna • Raw-7 • Roberta Chiarella, Inc. • Roberto Cavalli • Rock & Republic • R Shinobu • Shirt Passion • Sigal Dekel • Simply Chic Showroom • Skyla • Smith's American • So-Low • So-Low Jeans • Soya • Steven Alan Showroom • Sw Topless • Torn • Triple 5 Soul • True Religion Brand Jeans • Twilltwentytwo • Twisted Heart • Ula Paso • Union • Von Dutch • Will Adam + Eve • AG Adriano Goldschmied • Agent R.E.D. International • AKA New York • Ama • American Retro • Amo & Bretti • Anny & Adi Ja Blue Concept • Blue Cult • Body Wrap Innovation • Botkier Handbags • Bracha Baron • Butterfly Dropout • California Vintage • Ca Cynthia O'Connor & Company • Denim for Immortality • E.vil • Ella Gonen • Elvis • Emmelle • EMYU (CoComara) • Eternal Child • Ever • F.A.A G-1 • Gauge • Gazebo • Gefilte Fishe • Grail • Gustto • Hard Tail/Hard Tail Jeans • Iconic • Imitation • Inca • James Cured by Seun • Just Yves by Yves Castaldi • Kasil Inc. • Katomenta • Kedem Sasson • Kiss My Feet • Kooba • Landes Daily • L'Atelier LA • Laurie B • Lee Marithé et François Girbuad • Masaki Kyoko • Meltin' Pot • Michael Stars • Minette • Minnie Rose • Missoni Sport Wo Nuala by Puma • Odyn • Paola Frani • Paper Denim & Cloth • Paramita • Parasuco Jeans • People For Peace • Peoples Pulcini • Purp7e • Ranna • Raw-7 • Roberta Chiarella, Inc. • Roberto Cavalli • Rock & Republic • Royal Plush • S.Los Angeles • Sacred B Simply Chic Showroom • Skyla • Smith's American • So-Low • So-Low Jeans • Soya • Steven Alan Showroom • Sweet & Toxic • Sweet Romeo • Swell S Triple 5 Soul • True Religion Brand Jeans • Twilltwentytwo • Twisted Heart • Ula Paso • Union • Von Dutch • William Rast AG Adriano Goldschmied • Agent R.E.D. International • AKA New York • Ama • American Retro • Amo & Bretti • Anny & Adi Jacobson • Ant Blue Cult • Body Wrap Innovation • Botkier Handbags • Bracha Baron • Butterfly Dropout • California Vintage • Candela • CBGB Denim Denim for Immortality • E.vil • Ella Gonen • Elvis • Emmelle • EMYU (CoComara) • Eternal Child • Ever • F.A.A. Ltd • FAL Fashion Active La Gefilte Fishe • Grail • Gustto • Hard Tail/Hard Tail Jeans • Iconic • Imitation • Inca • James Cured by Seun • Jana Feifer Inc. • Je Kasil Inc. • Katomenta • Kedem Sasson • Kiss My Feet • Kooba • Landes Daily • L'Atelier LA • Laurie B • Lee Premium Denim • Left Field Bretti • Anny & Adi Jacobson • Antik Denim • Apropo Showroom • The Avalon Group • Beau & Eros • Bellekat • BGN Fr • Big Star Jeans USA, Inc. age • Candela • CBGB Denim • Chamak • Chick by Nicky Hilton • Cimarron • Cinderella Red • CK39 • Coexist • Country Girl • Creme Fraiche A. Ltd • FAL Fashion Active Lab • Fashion's Group USA • Felix Rey • Female • Ferran-New York • Flavio Olivera • Frank & Kahn • Fred Perry Ltd. • Jana Feifer Inc. • Jelessy • Jocelyn • Jordache Vintage • Josh Podoll • Joyaan • Juicy Couture • Julie Haus • Julie Sandlau e Premium Denim • Left Field • Lemon • LeTigre • Level 99 • Looney Tunes/DC Comics • Lynne Larson • Mackage • Made U Look omen • Mode Acote • Morphine Generation • Motif 56 • Muchacha • Multiple Origami • Nexus Showroom • Nine Lives • Not Rational Liberation • Pia Hallstrom • PierAntonioGaspari • Polo Jeans Company • Post Vegas • Project Alabama • Proper Fools Showroom Blue • Salt Works • Sam and Billy • Sao Paulo • Sean by Sean Combs • Sharon Segal Shelly Steffee, Inc. • Shinobu • Shirt Passion • Sigal Dekel ronn • Switch • Tashia London • Taverniti So Jeans • Teddy Smith • Thorn • Toast • Tocca Handbags • Topless • Torn • Triple 5 Soul gler Premium Patch • Yanuk • Yesterday Never Dies • Yoshi Yoshi by PJ • Zin • 10 Feet • 575 Denim • Adam + Eve • AG Adriano Goldschmied m • The Avalon Group • Beau & Eros • Bellekat • BGN Fr • Big Star Jeans USA, Inc. • Blue 2 Jeans • Blue Concept • Blue Cult • Body Wrap Innovation • Cimarron • Cinderella Red • CK39 • Coexist • Country Girl • Creme Fraiche • Cynthia O'Connor & Company • Denim for Immortality x Rey • Female • Ferran-New York • Flavio Olivera • Frank & Kahn • Fred Perry Ltd. • G-1 • Gauge • Gazebo • Gefilte Fishe • Grail • Gustto he Vintage • Josh Podoll • Joyaan • Juicy Couture • Julie Haus • Julie Sandlau • Just Yves by Yves Castaldi • Kasil Inc. • Katomenta 99 • Looney Tunes/DC Comics • Lynne Larson • Mackage • Made U Look • Marithé et François Girbuad • Masaki Kyoko • Meltin' Pot Multiple Origami • Nexus Showroom • Nine Lives • Not Rational • Nuala by Puma • Odyn • Paola Frani • Paper Denim & Cloth • Post Vegas • Project Alabama • Proper Fools Showroom • Pulcini • Purp7e • Ranna • Raw-7 • Roberta Chiarella, Inc. • Roberto Cavalli s • Sharon Segal Shelly Steffee, Inc. • Shinobu • Shirt Passion • Sigal Dekel • Simply Chic Showroom • Skyla • Smith's American • So-Low • So-Low Jeans ith • Thorn • Toast • Tocca Handbags • Topless • Torn • Triple 5 Soul • True Religion Brand Jeans • Twilltwentytwo • Twisted Heart PJ • Zin • 10 Feet • 575 Denim • Adam + Eve • AG Adriano Goldschmied • Agent R.E.D. International • AKA New York • Ama • American Retro ans USA, Inc. • Blue 2 Jeans • Blue Concept • Blue Cult • Body Wrap Innovation • Botkier Handbags • Bracha Baron • Butterfly Dropout eme Fraiche • Cynthia O'Connor & Company • Denim for Immortality • E.vil • Ella Gonen • Elvis • Emmelle • EMYU (CoComara) • Eternal Child ed Perry Ltd. • G-1 • Gauge • Gazebo • Gefilte Fishe • Grail • Gustto • Hard Tail/Hard Tail Jeans • Iconic • Imitation • Inca e Haus • Julie Sandlau • Just Yves by Yves Castaldi • Kasil Inc. • Katomenta • Kedem Sasson • Kiss My Feet • Kooba • Landes Daily • L'Atelier LA • Marithé et François Girbuad • Masaki Kyoko • Meltin' Pot • Michael Stars • Minette • Minnie Rose • Missoni Sport Women y Puma • Odyn • Paola Frani • Paper Denim & Cloth • Paramita • Parasuco Jeans • People For Peace • Peoples Liberation Ranna • Raw-7 • Roberta Chiarella, Inc. • Roberto Cavalli • Rock & Republic • Royal Plush • S.Los Angeles • Sacred Blue • Salt Works room • Skyla • Smith's American • So-Low • So-Low Jeans • Soya • Steven Alan Showroom • Sweet & Toxic • Sweet Romeo • Swell Swell by Koronn • Switch True Religion Brand Jeans • Twilltwentytwo • Twisted Heart • Ula Paso • Union • Von Dutch • William Rast • Wrangler 47 Goldschmied • Agent R.E.D. International • AKA New York • Ama • American Retro • Amo & Bretti • Anny & Adi Jacobson • Antik Denim • Body Wrap Innovation • Botkier Handbags • Bracha Baron • Butterfly Dropout • California Vintage • Candela • CBGB Denim • Chamak mmortality • E.vil • Ella Gonen • Elvis • Emmelle • EMYU (CoComara) • Eternal Child • Ever • F.A.A. Ltd • FAL Fashion Active Lab • Fashion's Group USA • Gustto • Hard Tail/Hard Tail Jeans • Iconic • Imitation • Inca • James Cured by Seun • Jana Feifer Inc. • Jelessy • Jocelyn Inc. • Katomenta • Kedem Sasson • Kiss My Feet • Kooba • Landes Daily • L'Atelier LA • Laurie B • Lee Premium Denim • Left Field ki Kyoko • Meltin' Pot • Michael Stars • Minette • Minnie Rose • Missoni Sport Women • Mode Acote • Morphine Generation per Denim & Cloth • Paramita • Parasuco Jeans • People For Peace • Peoples Liberation • Pia Hallstrom • PierAntonioGaspari a Chiarella, Inc. • Roberto Cavalli • Rock & Republic • Royal Plush • S.Los Angeles • Sacred Blue • Salt Works • Sam and Billy s American • So-Low • So-Low Jeans • Soya • Steven Alan Showroom • Sweet & Toxic • Sweet Romeo • Swell Swell by Koronn • Switch • Tashia London eans • Twilltwentytwo • Twisted Heart • Ula Paso • Union • Von Dutch • William Rast • Wrangler 47 • Wrangler Premium Patch al • AKA New York • Ama • American Retro • Amo & Bretti • Anny & Adi Jacobson • Antik Denim • Apropo Showroom • The Avalon Group Handbags • Bracha Baron • Butterfly Dropout • California Vintage • Candela • CBGB Denim • Chamak • Chick by Nicky Hilton • Cimarron onen • Elvis • Emmelle • EMYU (CoComara) • Eternal Child • Ever • F.A.A. Ltd • FAL Fashion Active Lab • Fashion's Group USA • Felix Rey • Female Hard Tail Jeans • Iconic • Imitation • Inca • James Cured by Seun • Jana Feifer Inc. • Jelessy • Jocelyn • Jordache Vintage • sson • Kiss My Feet • Kooba • Landes Daily • L'Atelier LA • Laurie B • Lee Premium Denim • Left Field • Lemon • LeTigre • Level 99 Michael Stars • Minette • Minnie Rose • Missoni Sport Women • Mode Acote • Morphine Generation • Motif 56 • Muchacha Paramita • Parasucointroduceintroduces Jeans • People For Peace • Peoples Liberations •Pier Pia Hallstrom • PierAntonioGaspari 88• Polo Jeans Company i • Rock & RepublicTUESDAY,• Royal WEDNESDAY, Plush • S.Los Angeles THURSDAY. • Sacred Blue • Salt September Works • Sam 20-22, and Billy •2005 Sao Paulo . 212.212.759.8055 • Sean759.8055 by Sean Combs Steven Alan Showroom • Sweet & Toxic • Sweet Romeo • Swell Swell by Koronn • Switch • Tashia London • Taverniti So Jeans • Teddy Smith Heart • Ula Paso • Union • Von Dutch • William Rast • Wrangler 47 • Wrangler Premium Patch • Yanuk • Yesterday Never Dies American Retro • Amo & Bretti • Anny & Adi Jacobson • Antik Denim • Apropo Showroom • The Avalon Group • Beau & Eros • Bellekat aron • Butterfly Dropout • California Vintage • Candela • CBGB Denim • Chamak • Chick by Nicky Hilton • Cimarron • Cinderella Red • CK39 U (CoComara) • Eternal Child • Ever • F.A.A. Ltd • FAL Fashion Active Lab • Fashion's Group USA • Felix Rey • Female • Ferran-New York • Flavio Olivera ion • Inca • James Cured by Seun • Jana Feifer Inc. • Jelessy • Jocelyn • Jordache Vintage • Josh Podoll • Joyaan • Juicy Couture • L'Atelier LA • Laurie B • Lee Premium Denim • Left Field • Lemon • LeTigre • Level 99 • Looney Tunes/DC Comics • Lynne Larson • Mackage Missoni Sport Women • Mode Acote • Morphine Generation • Motif 56 • Muchacha • Multiple Origami • Nexus Showroom • Nine Lives eople For Peace • Peoples Liberation • Pia Hallstrom • PierAntonioGaspari • Polo Jeans Company • Post Vegas • Project Alabama oyal Plush • S.Los Angeles • Sacred Blue • Salt Works • Sam and Billy • Sao Paulo • Sean by Sean Combs • Sharon Segal Shelly Steffee, Inc. weet & Toxic • Sweet Romeo • Swell Swell by Koronn • Switch • Tashia London • Taverniti So Jeans • Teddy Smith • Thorn • Toast • Tocca Handbags liam Rast • Wrangler 47 • Wrangler Premium Patch • Yanuk • Yesterday Never Dies • Yoshi Yoshi by PJ • Zin • 10 Feet • 575 Denim acobson • Antik Denim • Apropo Showroom • The Avalon Group • Beau & Eros • Bellekat • BGN Fr • Big Star Jeans USA, Inc. • Blue 2 Jeans andela • CBGB Denim • Chamak • Chick by Nicky Hilton • Cimarron • Cinderella Red • CK39 • Coexist • Country Girl • Creme Fraiche A. Ltd • FAL Fashion Active Lab • Fashion's Group USA • Felix Rey • Female • Ferran-New York • Flavio Olivera • Frank & Kahn • Fred Perry Ltd. • Jana Feifer Inc. • Jelessy • Jocelyn • Jordache Vintage • Josh Podoll • Joyaan • Juicy Couture • Julie Haus • Julie Sandlau e Premium Denim • Left Field • Lemon • LeTigre • Level 99 • Looney Tunes/DC Comics • Lynne Larson • Mackage • Made U Look omen • Mode Acote • Morphine Generation • Motif 56 • Muchacha • Multiple Origami • Nexus Showroom • Nine Lives • Not Rational Liberation • Pia Hallstrom • PierAntonioGaspari • Polo Jeans Company • Post Vegas • Project Alabama • Proper Fools Showroom Blue • Salt Works • Sam and Billy • Sao Paulo • Sean by Sean Combs • Sharon Segal Shelly Steffee, Inc. • Shinobu • Shirt Passion • Sigal Dekel Swell by Koronn • Switch • Tashia London • Taverniti So Jeans • Teddy Smith • Thorn • Toast • Tocca Handbags • Topless • Torn • Wrangler 47 • Wrangler Premium Patch • Yanuk • Yesterday Never Dies • Yoshi Yoshi by PJ • Zin • 10 Feet • 575 Denim • Adam + Eve tik Denim • Apropo Showroom • The Avalon Group • Beau & Eros • Bellekat • BGN Fr • Big Star Jeans USA, Inc. • Blue 2 Jeans • Blue Concept m • Chamak • Chick by Nicky Hilton • Cimarron • Cinderella Red • CK39 • Coexist • Country Girl • Creme Fraiche • Cynthia O'Connor & Company ab • Fashion's Group USA • Felix Rey • Female • Ferran-New York • Flavio Olivera • Frank & Kahn • Fred Perry Ltd. • G-1 • Gauge • Gazebo elessy • Jocelyn • Jordache Vintage • Josh Podoll • Joyaan • Juicy Couture • Julie Haus • Julie Sandlau • Just Yves by Yves Castaldi • Lemon • LeTigre • Level 99 • Looney Tunes/DC Comics • Lynne Larson • Mackage • Made U Look • Marithé et François Girbuad

Advertisement The Australian wool industry has a small problem. It just landed on her right shoulder.

Australia, home of the world’s finest calling for an immediate end to mulesing has spent millions of dollars on animal Merino wool and the world’s largest and for people to stop buying Australian welfare research including the search for Merino sheep flock is also, unfortunately, Merino wool until this practice is ceased. an effective alternative to mulesing. home to a particularly aggressive species This no doubt well-meaning but, in There are promising new technologies in of fly, Lucilia cuprina. Beautiful name, our opinion, misguided demand would development and the objective is to have but ugly reputation. have exactly the opposite effect to that a viable alternative fully operational as These blowflies specifically target presumably intended. It is estimated that soon as possible. Merino sheep and, without going into without mulesing up to three million Australian Merino wool is a natural, gory detail, can very easily lead to the Australian sheep would die a slow and renewable fiber produced in one of the sheep becoming infested and eventually agonizing death each year depending on cleanest agricultural environments in dying a painful death. the weather conditions. the world. Its amazing qualities of To prevent these deaths, Australian Furthermore if any call to stop buying comfort, drape, feel and style make it farmers remove a strip of skin from the Australian Merino wool proved effective universally desirable. So let’s hope that rear end of the lambs, preventing wool this could lead to grave problems for the common sense prevails so we can all from growing and becoming soiled Australian wool industry (which provides get back to enjoying high quality fashion and damp in the flies’ favorite target 65% of the world’s fine Merino wool). and other products made from the area. This practice is called ‘mulesing’ Australian woolgrowers pride world’s finest natural fiber. (pronounced mule-zing) after the inventor themselves on having animal welfare For further information please go to of the procedure J.H.Mules. and fiber production practices which are www.woolisbest.com Recently an animal rights group equal to any in the world. Over several targeted the Australian wool industry, decades the Australian wool industry www.moncler.it 8 WWD, SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2005 WWD.COM Tse Appoints Women’s Wear Designer WWDSATURDAY By Marc Karimzadeh Victor Alfaro, Hussein Chalayan Giberson has put her name- and Richard Chai. sake collection on hold. She NEW YORK — Tse has tapped “It’s the Tse philosophy to try gave birth to a boy, Ezra, in Tess Giberson, who worked at to get the best talent in the mar- March, and when the offer to de- Calvin Klein before launching ket,” said Augustine Tse, founder, sign Tse came up, she realized her namesake line for spring president and chief executive of- that she wanted to focus on it 2002, to be the designer of its ficer. “The market evolves, and and have more time with her women’s collection. Tse has to evolve with it.” child. The fall production of her Giberson, 33, succeeds An- Tse said he was looking for a collection has been completed nette Ishida, who was vice presi- designer with experience in wo- and it has been shipped to stores dent of design and left the firm vens, an area he is hoping to such as Barneys New York. in June. Giberson will unveil build for the label, which is most- “I felt comfortable with the her first collection this spring ly known for cashmere. decision,” Giberson said. “This for fall 2006 retailing. “I wanted someone with a adds to my overall experience.” “I see a lot of potential with strong woven background,” Tse Tse used to have fashion the resources Tse has,” Giberson said. “I have been watching Tess shows, but stopped them after said. “They have always stressed for a few seasons now and I like the 9/11 terrorist attacks. Tse innovation in their collection. I her sensibility, her philosophy, said the company is mulling a re- am always interested in pushing the understatement to her line. turn to shows for the fall 2006 beyond the boundaries of what’s I believe we will be able to grow collection, although it likely will expected.” very strongly together.” be in a different format from the Giberson joins a talented Tse has 120 shop-in-shops in usual runway presentation. Tse group of designers who have U.S. department and specialty and Giberson are discussing po- worked at Tse in the last decade. stores, including Neiman Marcus, tential ideas. Tse’s design team has been Saks Fifth Avenue, Bergdorf Good- “I want to make sure that it is headed by Narciso Rodriguez, man and Nordstrom. meaningful,” Tse said. Tocca, pages 12-13. Inspirations, pages 23-30. FASHION Seven For All Mankind to Unveil New Line It was a Celtic moment for Nicole Miller, and Kenneth Cole waged a war on 10 crime as the New York spring runways got rolling. By Lauren DeCarlo Seven For All Mankind, is on the This isn’t the first collabora- fit. The 30 to 40 T-shirts for spring tion for Seven For All Mankind NEW YORK — Seven For All will be in fabrics such as fleece, and, according to Kurz, it won’t be GENERAL Mankind is giving its fans more. jersey, sweat-shirting and rib. the last. Earlier this year, the firm Cheat Sheet: Is it us, or do new designers multiply like bunnies every The premium denim compa- Ron Herman, with more than partnered with Great China Wall 20 season? Here, WWD breaks down the lineup of fresh names and labels. ny will launch More 7, a brand of 35 years in the retail business, on a denim line, and before that This season’s cast of inspirational characters is the most varied of muses separates for women and men, believes the pairing of jeans and there was a collaboration with 23 yet, from John and Yoko to Sharon Stone, the Rat Pack to “Rocket” the dog. at the Fashion Coterie later this T-shirts makes perfect sense. Swarovski to produce a line of month. The launch for spring “It’s like bread and butter or salt limited-edition denim with crys- After a year of tumult and transition, Badgley Mischka is back and aiming at will consist of women’s T-shirts, or pepper,” he said. “You can’t tal detailing on the back pocket. 32 $100 million in sales by 2009. The designers speak about the changes. but other categories, a final list think of one without the other.” “We don’t have all the an- Who are those girls? Some of the newest models to hit the runways this of which is still being deter- Herman said three words in- swers ourselves, so we will seek 34 season share a few thoughts. mined, will be introduced for spired him while developing the out talent to come up with some- The People with the Pencils: Retailers disclose their wish lists — and what fall, in addition to a men’s line. brand: California, style, and life. thing truly exciting,” Kurz said. they don’t want to see — from this season’s offerings. More 7 is designed by Ron “It’s casual, comfortable and “It’s part of our strategy. Some 36 Herman’s Design Studio. easy,” he said. “A sophisticated people do it themselves and oth- Calendar: The schedule of shows for the spring 2006 runway season in “We think very highly of Ron simplicity, if you will.” ers license out. We have a hy- 38 New York. Herman, and we think it’s the More 7 will retail at the same brid model. We do some things, premier sportswear store in the high-end department stores and license other categories and U.S.,” said Andreas Kurz, chief specialty boutiques as Seven For have these collaborations.” EYE executive officer of Seven For All Mankind. The T-shirts will re- Kurz said a licensed line of Partying on Liberty Island to fete a Russian vodka; The fashion tribe gets a All Mankind. “No one repre- tail from $50 to $70. Kurz said footwear and handbags is likely 14 raw deal. sents the California lifestyle while he’d prefer More 7 to be to launch sometime next year. He Sarah Jessica Parker rings in $40,000 in two hours at Lord & Taylor; a little more than he does.” merchandised with the premium declined to provide a first-year 16 practical magic in Bryant Park, plus a Chic of the Week. The focus for More 7, like denim line, it’s not crucial. sales projection for the new line. Bryan Bradley has come a long way since scouring the pages of popular 18 fiction. Here, the designer talks about his literary side. To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is Marchesa Preps for Spring ’06 [email protected], using the individual’s name. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2005 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. By Samantha Conti Renée Zellweger and Scarlett ufacturer to manufacture the VOLUME 190, NO. 55. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional Johansson in their couture de- line. The embroidery, a signature issue in June, July and November, two additional issues in April, May, August and December, and three additional issues in LONDON — Georgina Chapman signs, said they want to make of the couture dresses, will con- February, March, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL and Keren Craig are not hitting their clothes accessible to a tinue to be done in India. OFFICE: 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill the runway this season with wider public. The brand is backed by Giu- Bright, Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior their label that celebrities love “The rtw dresses won’t be seppe Cipriani, of the Harry’s Bar Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice-President_General to love. In fact, the Marchesa de- hand-sewn, but they will be as and Cipriani restaurant clan. It’s Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. signers are not even showing true as they possibly can to the Cipriani’s first real foray into the Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: their latest collection, but, natu- couture dresses. They will be industry, said Chapman. “I’m a fan SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS rally, they’re creating a buzz. heavily corseted, they’ll have of his restaurants, his girlfriend CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North The London-based designers heavy embroidery and they’ll be is a model and she loves the stuff, Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four are in New York for the next made from fabrics that are so we all thought, why not?” weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West few weeks hammering out the woven and designs that are The partners plan to distribute 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221- manufacturing and distribution made especially for us,” said the line internationally, and are 9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit details of their first ready-to- Chapman. already in talks with a major U.S. www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information by mail wear collection, which will bow “They’re going to be as close retailer for an exclusive deal. and/or e-mail, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. for spring 2006. It will be made as possible to the red-carpet They declined to comment fur- WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED up entirely of evening dresses, styles, so that girls can actually ther. They also declined to give MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART with retail prices starting at buy what they see,” she added. any current sales figures for their WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED around $800. What they won’t be is labor- and couture business, adding that it TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE “We’ve always hoped and time-intensive. Chapman said was “not huge.” ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. dreamed big,” said Chapman in the couture dresses each take They say they plan to move a telephone interview from New about two months to make. into daywear as soon as possi- Yo rk. “Now, we just hope that The two designers said they ble, and want to stage a show as people out there will want to will produce the spring 2006 soon as the right financing is in buy the dresses.” sample collection, about 30 dif- place. In the meantime, they’ll FREE Access Chapman and Craig, who cap- ferent styles that range from continue dressing their celebrity The Women’s Wear Daily Web site will be FREE during New York tured the spotlight earlier this cocktail dresses to long evening- clientele. “And we’re always Fashion Week. Get the inside scoop: reviews, the latest news, year after dressing a battery of wear, in-house. They are nailing keeping our eyes open for new features and much more. For information, visit wwd.com. stars including Cate Blanchett, down a deal with an Italian man- stars,” Chapman said. AND FOREIGNTRADETHEITALIAN TRADECOMMISSION. PRESENTED BYTHEITALIAN MINISTRY FORINDUSTRY 800.429.0996 ©SAKS FIFTH AVENUE 2005 WILDABOUTCASHMERE.COM Saks FifthAvenue September 21,at nationwide. Go wildon IN PARTNERSHIP WITH AMERICAN EXPRESS 10 WWD, SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2005

GothamGetsFashion Week revved up with the sweet and spiffy, the understated and the daring, as

Kenneth Cole Kenneth Cole

Nicole Miller

new york

Kenneth Cole

Kenneth Cole: Does Kenneth Cole feel just a little bit guilty about having amassed savvy understatement. He worked in muted, often earthy colors — browns, navies, wealth through fashion? His current tag line has the ring of internal struggle: “To greens of the olive and moss ilk — while emphasizing tailoring that looked soft but be aware is more important than what you wear.” Similarly, this season’s show- still spiffy. Some strong looks played with boy-meets-girl, a generously ruffled wrap opening public awareness spot, titled “FVU,” an amusing riff on “Law & Order: shirt with Bermudas, for example. When he countered the overt sportif, it was with SVU,” stars Whoopie Goldberg as the unapologetic perp who tells two cops that all-girl dresses in vibrant crinkled chiffons. Still, Cole’s own look might turn out to fashion doesn’t matter a hoot in a world devastated by AIDS, homelessness and be the season’s best — and most profitable. He took his bow in a Red Cross T-shirt Katrina. But the detectives still throw the book at her (the book being the with the number “1 (800) HELP NOW” on the back. mammoth September issue of Vogue), since, “being socially aware is no excuse for bad fashion.” Nicole Miller: In New York, there’s no bigger Celtics fan than Nicole Miller. After There was not an FV atrocity in sight on Cole’s runway (at least not on the fall’s romp with the Valkyries, for spring she refocused her attention on her first feminine side; thankfully, this publication need not address HotPants pour homme). love — Celtic knots and symbols in a rainbow of jewel tones. That motif made for a Instead, the designer sent out a lineup of appealing sportswear that bore a certain few appealing pieces. But too often, Miller muddied the waters with a second WWD, SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2005 11 WWD.COM

sGoing sleek looks contrasted with feminine shapes.

Nicole Miller Gottex PHOTOS ZACK BY SECKLER Zac Posen with his new accessories collection. Zac Posen: Adding On NEW YORK — His unfinished headquar- ters in TriBeCa isn’t the only construction project Zac Posen has under way. Variegated leather The designer is also busy with a keyhole mules. new, full-scale accessories collection for spring. The line, which consists of eight styles of bags and five of shoes, as well as a smattering of small leather goods and belts, evolved from the bags he has designed for the past two seasons. (Though done for Posen’s runway shows, strong retail interest prompted sales.) The most dramatic aspect of the new bags may be their proportions. Aside from one envelope clutch, the collection consists of oversized numbers, like his Gottex favorite “day-to-night” portfolios that are big enough to fit papers and magazines, as well as, he said with a wink, “a change of clothes.” “There is a lot of talk about volume, and for me, that means a big bag,” Posen said, pointing out that he loves the oversized shoulder bags Ashley Olsen is always seen carrying. Size, though, isn’t just a matter of visual impact for Posen; it’s practical, too. Case in point: A large hobo bag that expands in width to become an overnighter, or a barrel bag with side panels that snap outward to provide additional space. When it comes to the collection’s materials, Posen went for several different variations. A hobo, for instance, is made with python, stingray and lizard, while another version combines washed leather and distressed suede. Meanwhile, Posen’s signature “Z” hardware is nowhere in sight. Instead, he opted for brushed copper rings, tassel heads and rivets displaying his full name. “I want to create A crocodile, an object of desire,” Posen said, “something that stingray and looks as if you made it yourself.” suede dog As for the shoes, the sandals feature a new carrier. heel shape that Posen described as “sexy, like a women’s torso.” There are also peep-toe sling- backs in fabrics that coordinate with the ready-to-wear, and a Grecian wedge sandal inspired by a trip to Patmos, Greece, last summer. Because the accessories line is as fresh as the paint on his studio walls, prices, stores and sales projections have not yet been set, but Posen knows he has a long road ahead. “We’re getting started now,” he said. “This is just the beginning.” — Roxanne Robinson-Escriout PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE AND ROBERT MITRA

strong concept — glam bohemia. It resulted in a battery of metallic crochets, collection to a group that included celebrity guests as off-kilter as Dr. Ruth architectural panels and some seriously unforgiving silhouettes. Girls might find all Westheimer and pop music’s latest heir apparent, Ryan Cabrera, who both sat in those balloon shapes a tad difficult to pull off — even on their skinny days. the front row. Miller’s best moments were when she boiled her ideas down to their square Oberson focused heavily on overlays and daring cuts. In his playful tropical roots: lean white crochet dresses; a sweet cream Empire-waisted linen coat. And print group, there were lots of ruffles and pretty chiffon après-beachwear, rather than tricky cuts and seams she should play to her strength, color. Miller’s including slit-front skirts and shawls. And the twist played a key role in many of unafraid to use it with Pucci-like boldness — which she exercised on the oversized the 63 styles he sent out, most notably a lime one-piece with multiple twisted Celtic prints — or find fresh ways to pair it, as seen in copper trims on a mint skirt bandeaux on its front side. It was one of his seemingly simple maillot styles, and a cerulean dress. though, that really wowed the crowd when the model turned around to reveal a beaded spiderweb across the back. But nothing upstaged the last look: a bikini Gottex: A sexy Caribbean breeze swept through the tents Friday afternoon as festooned with more than 5,000 hand-carved, 18-karat gold mini banana leaves that Gottex’s Gideon Oberson, inspired by the exotic isles, sent out his latest swimwear swished as the model breezed by. 12 WWD, SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2005 Easy and Breezy Cool and simple were the watchwords on the spring runways, designers toned it down with casual yet chic and pretty looks.

Yigal Azrouël Yigal Azrouël Brian Reyes Tocca

new york

Form

Brian Reyes PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO, TALAYA CENTENO, GEORGE CHINSEE, ROBERT MITRA AND DAVID TURNER AND DAVID MITRA GEORGE CHINSEE, ROBERT CENTENO, PHOTOS TALAYA JOHN AQUINO, BY

Yigal Azrouël: Mr. Azrouël is so lucky he pulled together a pretty collection. Due to a Maggie Gyllenhaal — who love their Yigal Azrouël party dresses. While the few long production glitch, a gaggle of editors had to wait outside his West 14th Street store, gowns lacked a little oomph, the shorter frocks, especially a pale purple jersey site of his spring show. For those stylish loiterers of the Pollyanna persuasion, the jacquard, more than made up for it. And here’s a little heads-up for those who keep extra hour did offer a chance to pass time trawling the latest deliveries at Alexander tabs on the red-carpet credits: Gyllenhaal, currently making the rounds at the McQueen and Stella McCartney across the cobblestones. Toronto International Film Fest, just had the delicate brown chantilly lace dress, Happily, when the crowd settled, Azrouël sent out a brief 20-piece lineup that cinched with an ice blue sash, shipped to her. reached a new level of savvy sophistication. And for once, his gowns, so long a favorite of socialites and actresses, took a backseat, making way for smart skirts, Brian Reyes: It’s not news that hype can be both friend and foe, but it’s a lesson bermudas and shirts. He kept the mood easy and breezy — lots of crisp whites; fuss- that Brian Reyes may be learning this season. Early excitement about the 24-year- free cotton skirts; a cool blue seersucker jacket that touched subtly on a Napoleonic old designer’s debut collection certainly got a crowd into his chairs, and while theme. Couldn’t you just see some lithe, young Hollywood thing in the cropped khaki Reyes certainly had a fine first showing, there was perhaps more of a buildup than gauchos and belted coat that was a chic meeting of a navy blazer and swingy cape? was necessary. But there are those ladies — Natalie Portman, Evangeline Lilly and most notably Of his former bosses — Ralph Lauren, Michael Kors and Oscar de la Renta — WWD, SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2005 13 WWD.COM Fashion Scoops

THE REAL THING: With only Rachel Feinstein collection. Naturally, Barton is expected to and Yvonne Force in the front row, signs be wearing an embroidered cocktail dress didn’t bode well for Tara Subkoff’s celeb from Chanel’s fall collection. Expected to quotient at Imitation of Christ. But the make an appearance are Rachel Bilson, y Does It designer made good to show goers who Camilla Belle, Kelly Rowan and Melinda faced stiff security and butt-numbing Clarke. One of them might just get lucky wooden stools by enlisting her best buddy, that evening: a quilted Chanel 2.55 bag Scarlett Johansson, to open the show. will given away in a raffle. Johansson, wearing skintight jeans, a tank top and red heels, made her way down the SIMPLE ADDITION: Ashlee Simpson’s on- elaborate stairs inside Surrogate’s Court again, off-again boyfriend, Ryan Cabrera, smoking a cigarette. She then strutted and can hold his own in the fashion vamped for the frenzied photographers, her department. Front row at Esteban Cortazar’s hair done up in the fluffed Fifties style the show Friday, the spiky-haired singer said, starlet seems to prefer for her red-carpet “I’m really into fashion. I don’t always appearances. admit it. But deep down, everyone is.” Cabrera said his interest in fashion isn’t REST DAY?: So due to label-happy Simpson. “When you’re much for relaxing in music and you’re performing and doing before the big TV shows, you have to be.” But his fans match. Roger might easily overlook his favorite Federer, the possession, a calculator watch. “It’s number-one coming back,” he said. seeded men’s player at the U.S. BUYS NIGHT OUT: By some miracle, Tom Open, took time Parker Bowles and his bride Sara Buys have out from managed to keep the key details of their practicing for nuptials — which take place this afternoon today’s semifinal — under tight wraps. The two, who met match against while they were both students at Oxford, Kim Clijsters and Lleyton Hewitt to will be wed today at 4:30 in the tiny Saint Giorgio Borruso attend Naeem KEITH SMITH PHOTO BY Nicholas Church in the village of Khan’s fashion Rotherfield Greys, near Henley-on-Thames, After stints at Zac Posen show Friday morning. Federer had just England. Only a handful of guests, and Ralph Lauren, Lyn Promising first-timer Nuj beaten David Nalbandian in straight sets the including newlyweds Prince Charles and the Devon marked her debut Austin Scarlett proved Novakhett showed a num- previous night and appeared to be enjoying Duchess of Cornwall, will attend the church with a number of skirts — that there is life after ber of puffed confections a different venue. ceremony, while a dinner dance, with more trim, embroidered pen- “Project Runway,” with a — with tucked-under “It was exciting. It was nice and short,” than 400 guests, will follow at the bride’s cils, as well as billowy, capsule evening collec- hems, peg waists, you he joked afterward. He said he’s a friend of father’s home, a few minutes from the wind-swept numbers — tion heavy on frilly, femi- name it — as well a pen- Lionel Geneste, the company’s creative church. The guest list for dinner is heavy all executed with a Rucci- nine, Southern romance. chant for exaggerated director. “I met him, and they came to the on the fashion crowd — Buys is, after all, esque undercurrent of The star frock: a satin proportions. match, and I wanted to return the favor,” fashion features editor for Harpers & Moroccan desert chic. and lace gown made from a Twenties bedspread. said the Swiss tennis star, adding this was Queen. Sources said rock ’n’ rollers will his first fashion show. Did he find any also be there, in addition, of course, to similarities between professional tennis and royals. Everyone’s great hope, is that the models on the catwalk? “They’re in Princes William and Harry will show up with center stage, the way I am on the court.” their respective girlfriends — and future Meanwhile, on Thursday night, Kim brides? — Kate Middleton and Chelsy Davy. Clijsters wasn’t exactly taking it easy before her semifinal U.S. Open match against YURMAN’S NEW Maria Sharapova Friday. The shy Belgian FACE: Jewelry player, who beat Sharapova and has been company David on the comeback trail all year, was fending Yurman has off the paparazzi at a store opening party signed 20-year-old on Madison Avenue for her sponsor Fila. “I Australian singer am here now because I keep winning in the Delta Goodrem to Open,” she quipped. And regardless of how wear only Yurman she plays going forward, Clijsters will still looks. The up-and- have Fila’s backing; The company said it comer is to wear will sponsor her for “the duration of her Yurman pieces in career.” public appearances, on STAR HOST: One her album cover celebrity who won’t and in her music be making the videos. Goodrem rounds of shows has had number- today is Mischa one singles in Barton. Chanel Australia and has Delta Goodrem Savile Row fabrics tapped the actress to won eight Aria DIMITRIOS KAMBOURIS/WIREIMAGE PHOTO BY morphed into 10 co-host a cocktail Awards, the Australian version of the downtown-style party at its Costa Grammys. sundresses at Hanuk. Liz McClean showed a Mesa, Calif., She has already been on the “Today” Unfinished edges and roundup of pretty chiffon boutique tonight to show and has visited various events wearing drawstring detailing frocks with a witchy feel, celebrate the store’s Yurman. On Thursday, she wore a black rendered them sweet, but like this silk chiffon Way uptown, Mal Sirrah’s recent makeover by Donna Karan dress paired with Yurman probably not sweet layered tunic, along with stylishly wrinkled architect Peter necklaces, a ring and earrings to the pinstriped silks made for enough to justify their a group of gold medallion Marino as well as the Mischa Barton Elle/Bloomingdale’s party. Details of the hefty retail prices. necklaces. fresh spring fare. arrival of the fall contract’s length were not disclosed.

Reyes seems to relate most to the last. His collection appeared to make a bid for the made for lovely day dresses and tunics, while more structured pieces such as navy same client — the skirt suit-wearing socialite, perhaps of a certain age. But Reyes jackets in cotton and linen rounded out the lineup. was actually at his best when he steered toward ease and youth and away from the prim and ladylike — as in a simple and sportif cotton khaki hacking dress or a Form: For his first collection under his label, Form, Jerry Tam kept his looks feminine blousy chiffon tank paired with a full skirt. Evening, too, was a slightly spotty affair. with a modern edge, and he worked a silver theme, adding metallic tones to normally A lace gown looked like a student’s work, while another hacking dress, this time in muted shades such as lavender, taupe and peach, which resulted in a shimmering, chocolate chiffon, was lovely with a lace hem. liquid effect. Tam emphasized draping, curves and princess cuts without making any of the pieces look too tricky — perhaps a trick he picked up while working with Zac Tocca: Newly appointed creative director Edoardo Mantelli and new design director Posen and Patrick Robinson at Perry Ellis. The inside-out pockets on his shrunken Samantha Sung, formerly of Cerruti and Ralph Lauren, showed a new Tocca girl for jackets and the double lapels, for example, while playful, were still smart, and his spring, much less twee and prim than in past seasons and more relaxed and fluid tops easily could be worn in a variety of ways, valuing a sense of utility easygoing. Sung’s debut collection for the line played with volume and raw, earthy throughout. His trenchcoat summed up his entire collection — modern and intricate, materials such as shells, wood, coconut and rope detailing. Gauguin-inspired prints yet easy and effortless, a look sure to be a hit among the cool, hip girls about town. 14 WWD, SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2005 WWD.COM Gail Elliott, Helena Christensen, Natalia One If By Land Vodianova and her son, Lucas Portman. NEW YORK — “Fashion Rocks” made it to Julia Radio City Music Hall Thursday night and most Restoin of the stars showed up wearing fabulous outfits Roitfeld eye® that had been picked for them…by their stylists. “It’s a collaboration,” Gwen Stefani said of her unique ensemble, a NASCAR-inspired black-and-white getup at the after party held at the Rainbow Room, before adding, “I have a big role in it. ” “I have a stylist,” admitted Lisa Marie Presley, who was sitting at a banquette wearing sweatpants and Converse sneakers and looking bored. “Her name’s Jessica Paster. When I’m busy, I can’t possibly deal with what I’m going to wear.” Simon Le Bon of Duran Duran was standing by the bar waiting to order a dry martini. On his left was Victoria Silvstedt, a blonde Playmate of the Year; on his right, a brunette who held up a lambchop, which he took a bite out of. He bussed one of them on the ear. Then a smaller brunette at the bar began to flirt with him. “I was feeling left out,” she said with a little smile, before identifying herself as Bridget, no last name given and none needed. Le Bon gave her a little peck on the ear, too. Of course, he, too, has a stylist these days. “Her name’s Marjan,” LeBon said. “M-A-R-J-A-N. Want to meet her?” That same night, at an empty loft space by the West Side Highway, DKNY Jeans hosted a party to celebrate the launch of “Director’s Series,” which is a compilation of the music videos of directors Mark Romanek, Stephane Sednaoui, Anton Corbijn and Jonathan Glazer. Standing in the back, Cecilia Dean of Visionaire was unconvinced the widespread use of stylists is about anything more than making things more efficient. “Can you imagine being on tour?” she said. “I think they have to have people because they just don’t have the time.” But Romanek thinks the tide is about to turn. “There’s a whole new crop of musicians like Devendra Banhart, Sufjan Stevens and Connor Oberst, and none of those guys need stylists,” he said. The previous night, no stylists were necessary when a flock of the city’s hipsters boated over to Liberty Island, where Helena Christensen and Natalia Vodianova helped the Russian Standard Company launch its new Imperia Vodka. Guests, including Donna Karan, Damon Dash and Rachel Roy, were greeted on land by an army of park rangers, a SWAT team and, of course, plenty of blondes proferring vodka shots to the thirsty travelers. “Where’s the caviar bar?” clamored revelers who had heard rumors of the vats that were awaiting them. Indeed, the delicacy was abundant, as was the vodka. More intrepid guests opted for an after hours Lily Cole tour of the Statue herself. Later, the crowd was ushered Lily Cole Gela Taylor and at Liberty onto the lawn, extravagantly lit with hundreds of at Liberty Gwen Stefani Lisa Marie Presley Island. lanterns and strewn with luxurious cushions. The Lisa Marie Presley Island. dramatic Manhattan skyline, combined with the large red Imperia sign looming over the floating stage where Duran Duran would later play, completed the effect. “We don’t often play in front of other people’s logos, but it’s not a bad one,” said Duran Duran drummer Nick Rhodes, who was capturing the scene with his digital camera. Folk dancers, belly dancers and fortune tellers wound their way through guests such as Julia Restoin Roitfeld, Jacquetta Wheeler, Donovan Leitch and Rufus Albemarle. Despite the boisterous throngs, which literally consumed every drop of vodka from the shoreline bars, Vodianova’s young son, Lucas, managed to sleep through most of the festivities. Earlier, designer Karan politely asked after the child. “He’s fine,” Vodianova said before her husband, Justin Portman, The lawn on Liberty Island. blurted out, “She’s got another one in there.”

GOODBYE MARITIME, HELLO HIGHWAY. FASHION WEEK INSIDERS HOPING TO GET INVITED The scene at the DKNY party. to an after party at a trendy three-star restaurant with a superstar chef will likely have to wait until

E next year. There’s a DIY attitude sweeping through this season, with most opting for rented raw spaces, preferably as close to the West Side Highway as possible. Have no idea where you’re going? That probably means you’ll have a better time. On Thursday, DKNY Jeans hosted a party in an unfinished venue at 547 West 21st Street, the same

M location Calvin Klein is using next Thursday for the launch party of its new fragrance, Euphoria.

I “It’s literally a raw space. There’s nothing there except toilets,” said Malcolm Carfrae, a spokesman for Calvin Klein. So what did the design house find attractive about it? Senior vice president of global advertising and T communications Kim Vernon weighed in, claiming it was the ability to create an “experience” from scratch. “The whole idea of a fragrance is to bring people into a dream and there’s no existing space that can convey that,” she said. “A Other fashion houses partying this week, but at more established event spaces: restaurant is the dream of Jean- Y Georges or Keith McNally. That’s MONDAY: Marc Jacobs after party at Cipriani 23rd Street. their dream, this is ours.” TUESDAY: Matthew Williamson after party at Guest House. By the time the team at Calvin is done, they promise the room will look “very lush T WEDNESDAY: Cartier’s “A Night in Cartier Paradise” at Gotham Hall. and very beautiful.” THURSDAY: Zac Posen after party at the Soho Grand Penthouse. Stephen Gan, the editor of Visionaire, has no such hopes for MisShapes, a dank West FRIDAY: Proenza Schouler dinner at La Esquina for Corzo Tequila. Village nightclub he’s rented out for a party tonight. R And for those loathe to hop off the social merry-go-round, there’s always “Personally, I am yearning for a dive,” he said. “I feel like things have gotten too another party around the corner, literally. The Director’s Council of the polished and too slick. You don’t hear the word ‘yuppies’ anymore, but many of these Museum of the City of New York and Nina Ricci are hosting “The Three big restaurants tailor to today’s equivalent. I’m looking for more underground spaces A Graces” fete on Sept. 19. that have a vibe that’s closer to the New York I knew when I first moved here in the early Nineties.” P PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER PHOTOS BY 800 262 2411 FOOTWEAR AVAILABLE AT SELECT LOCATIONS ©2005 COACH® 16 WWD, SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2005 WWD.COM

Sarah Jessica Parker and an unlikely fan at A Lovely Success Lord & Taylor. NEW YORK — Sarah Jessica Parker may be one of America’s most photographed women, but smug she is not. After surveying a crowd of more than 2,000 weeping, screaming, adoring fans who eye® jammed Lord & Taylor’s beauty floor Friday, where the actress promoted her first fragrance, Lovely Sarah Jessica Parker, produced by Lancaster — she said she felt one emotion. “Sheer and utter relief,” she said, giggling. “I thought, ‘New York has seen so much of me. Wouldn’t that be ironic if the least amount of people ended up at this?’ I was worried that I’d walk out there and there would be seven or eight very nice people and then they’d be pulling people in off the streets, paying them cash to be in line. So I was really terrifically relieved.” Speaking of cash, Lord & Taylor was said to be making a lot of it during the two-hour event, Parker’s only East Coast appearance. Sources said Parker’s scent had sold more than $40,000 for the afternoon, though store executives naturally declined to comment. “This is the largest beauty personal appearance we’ve ever had,” said Barbara Zinn-Moore, senior vice president and general merchandise manager for cosmetics at Lord & Taylor. “Sarah Jessica epitomizes everything we’re all about. She’s a New Yorker, a style icon and dedicated to this fragrance.” Parker, who made an appearance at Harvey Nichols in London last week that was said to have brought in almost $30,000, has a slew of events to promote her scent. In fact, she’s skipping New York Fashion Week to travel to San Francisco, Chicago and Toronto in the next week and a half. She’s also getting ready to send her almost three-year-old son, James, to nursery school — “with me there,” she said — and looking forward to the Nov. 4 release of her movie “The Family Stone,” which costars Diane Keaton, Rachel McAdams and Dermot Mulroney. In October, Parker is set to begin filming “Spinning Into Butter,” about the effects of hate crimes on a small liberal arts college in the Northeast. “My character plays the dean of students,” she said of the film, written by playwright Rebecca Gilman. “She tries to find a solution to the problem, and it becomes a much more divisive issue in the school. It’s an incredible story.” — Julie Naughton Practical Magic AFTER PLAYING HOST TO SCORES OF FASHION EDITORS AND buyers season after season, Bryant Park has absorbed a few of their traits — especially the one that is drawn to delicious food and fresh flowers. Craft has opened up a whopping four kiosks of its spin-off ’wichcraft in the plaza there this summer, one for each delicious food group — salads and soups, sandwiches, ice cream and coffee and pastries. “It’s a little oasis in the middle of the city,” says partner Jeffrey Zurofsky of the park. The soup and salad booth, which serves roasted turkey with greens and chilled cucumber soup, will be closed this week due to fashion week traffic. However, a sampling of those items will be available, along with sandwiches like a triple-decker peanut butter and jelly on pullman white bread and a chicken breast, roasted pepper and mozzarella on grilled country bread. Teas, steel-cut oatmeal and Greek Renée yogurt with granola are sold at the coffee and pastry kiosk on the corner Zellweger of 42nd Street and Sixth Avenue, and ice cream cones, sandwiches and in London. sundaes are dished out at the booth next to it. “We were told [food service] doesn’t get very busy during fashion week,” Zurofsky adds, but given their gourmet rep that will likely change. “When we do something it tends to get busy pretty quickly, so I’m a little nervous based on that.” Nerves aren’t uncommon around Bryant Park these days. Fortunately, Magnolia Flowers has opened an outpost there, too, and a whiff of its dried lavender is likely to quell any pre-show (or pre- ALL FASHIONABLE lunch rush) jitters. A hand-tied Parisian style bouquet of roses, eyes may protea, celosia, heather or berries can make an ideal congratulatory currently be gift backstage or last minute thank-you. Candles from Valuspa, potted focused on the plants and topiaries are also available and range from about $20 to brouhaha going $65 — much less than anything being shown a few feet away on the down at the tents, runways. — Emily Holt Blueberry and vanilla ice cream sandwiches from ’wichcraft. but on Thursday evening in London, a very elegant Renée Zellweger, Double Seven’s luxe interior. posing at a preshow party for the U.K. DOUBLE DUTY premiere of “Cinderella THE LATEST SCENESTER BAR OF CHOICE, Man,” made a bid for Double Seven, nestled in the Meatpacking diverting that gaze District, is playing host to a slew of Euro-fabulous eastward. Wearing parties during fashion week. On Sunday night, a black Chic Luella Bartley and stylist Katie Grand are having strapless, silk cocktails for their nearest and dearest after faille dress with of the Bartley’s fashion show that day. Padma Lakshmi is an embroidered celebrating her 32nd birthday Tuesday, she says. ribbon bow from The guest list is unconfirmed, but hubby Salman Carolina Herrera’s Week Rushdie certainly will be by her side. Thursday latest resort night, another model-cum-writer, Sophie Dahl, will collection, topped off take over the space to ring in her 27th birthday. with a Cartier ring, Judith Leiber clutch and Dahl’s pals — who include a bevy of models black satin Manolos, Zellweger gave her and/or Brit hipsters such as Jacquetta Wheeler, British audience a taste of classic American Alexi Lubomirski, Karen Elson, Natalia Vodianova, chic. “Renée always looks beautiful and Justin Portman, Erin O’Connor, Alice Temperley, effortless,” said Herrera of one of her favorite Bay Garnett, Jefferson Hack and Tabitha Simmons Hollywood mannequins. Will Zellweger make — will get to sample a specialty cocktail the bar is an appearance at Herrera’s show Monday making especially for Dahl called “The Duchess” morning? Turn those eyes back westward and — one of the willowy blonde’s nicknames. wait with bated breath. — Anamaria Wilson IGNAL; ZELLWEGER BY DAVID M. BENETT/GETTY DAVID IMAGES BY IGNAL; ZELLWEGER SJP PHOTO BY TALAYA CENTENO; DOUBLE SEVEN BY ERIC CENTENO; DOUBLE SEVEN BY TALAYA SJP PHOTO BY LA Arrive on time in Europe’s fashion capitals.

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Depart from 16 U.S. gateways SM to over 100 European destinations. There’s no better way to fly. Visit lufthansa-usa.com. 18 WWD, SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2005 WWD.COM Book Smart NEW YORK — Bryan Bradley may be an avid reader, but he’s no lit snob. Where some designers claim to be experts on Marcel Proust and Baudelaire and freely reference those writers in their fashion show notes, the creative force behind Tuleh has no such airs. “When I started reading, it was Danielle Steel and the entire oeuvre of Sidney Sheldon,” Bradley recalls, a sense of pride in his voice. The designer has come a long way since scouring the pages of popular fiction. Over the years, Bradley has amassed an impressive collection of books sourced from specialty bookstores around the world or received as gifts from friends. Until recently, Bradley would resell many books or keep them Bryan Bradley in his library. stored in boxes at his apartment on Manhattan’s Lower East Side, which also serves as his studio. eye® But last spring, he decided to get organized. He they are rare, out of print or have a personal station,” he says. “I think I may have once even asked an acquaintance to create a white plywood meaning, he likes to rip out pages for his personal shouted, ‘Get that woman off the tracks!’”), Michael bookshelf that now graces an entire wall of the use. That said, he claims to rarely cull from them for Pollan’s “Second Nature: A Gardener’s Education” and elongated loft and is furnished with more books and his fashion collections. “The crossroad of fashion and Jane Austen’s “Persuasion” (“I can’t stand that girl magazines than Bradley cares to count. literature is so remote that it rarely makes it onto the Emma and her acolytes, nor pride, nor prejudice, nor The designer explains his passion: “Most fashion map,” he says. Still, he admits to having been parks, nor abbeys and can never quite figure out the types don’t read. I read in a weirdly circular manner profoundly affected by Francine du Plessix Gray’s difference between sense and sensibility,” he notes). that I’m only now beginning to see some sort of pattern “Them: A Memoir of Parents,” which he read while “I like an author with a consistent oeuvre,” Bradley in. Whatever the various pretentious tendencies I am designing this fall’s collection. adds. “I almost always like the late work that’s a little guilty of, building a ‘library’ is not amongst them, “I do remember a kind of fascination with ‘Them’ bit odd. They have already done their masterpiece. meaning, it’s a totally random selection, with very few that kept circling back,” says Bradley, who is a friend They are less concerned with the commercial appeal — I hate this modifier, but bookish types would say — of the writer. “I think Francine found herself — her and more free to write as they wish.” valuable editions. When well-meaning friends and voice — in opposition. I have a weakness for outré, Bradley’s library is a suitable backdrop to the hive acquaintances give these sort of books to me, I try to grandstanding, self-created types; I absolutely can of activity in the apartment. During the day, assistants pass them along to the more appropriate recipient relate to [Russian poet Vladimir] Mayakovsky’s scurry around with fabric swatches and samples, while ASAP…well, with a few exceptions.” obsession with Tatiana [Yakovleva du Plessix, the at night the place turns into a kind of literary salon Bradley does collect some first editions, but unless author’s mother], which was in direct opposition to his where he and his friends can kick back, drink, smoke supposed duty to his revolutionary comrades.” and discuss whatever captures their imagination at the LIBRARY SCIENCE While he claims there is no particular system to the moment: political or cultural movements, society, BRADLEY’S FAVORITE BOOKS: A SELECTION way he arranges a collection, he has an almost theater or novels. photographic memory of where each book is placed. “It is impossible to say why I read those particular ● Francine du Plessix Gray: “Them” and “October Blood” For instance, Bradley will refer to a novel in books at that particular time, though I’m sure there is ● Joris-Karl Huysmans: “Downstream” conversation, walk about the studio, pause by a spot as some connective tissue,” Bradley says. “It is true that I ● Janet Flanner: “Paris Journals Volumes 1 and 2” if in mediation and pull out the volume mentioned. have autodidactic tendencies, and also true that books ● Frederic Tuten: “Tintin in the New World” “When I go to a party and come across the gift situation, are my great ongoing love affair. I am no monogamist ● Philip Roth: “The Plot Against America” I have had great success standing here thinking, what here. I love the one I’m with: Trollope on the sly, ● Vladimir Kagan: “The Complete Kagan” would they like? What’s more them than me?” Nancy Mitford for a crack-up, Louis Auchincloss for a ● David Wojnarowicz: “Rimbaud in New York 1978-79” Bradley particularly likes the works of E.M. Forster little decorum, Ian McEwan for a complete escape, ● Sam Haskins: “November Girl” and Jane Austen for their social commentary. He often Mary McCarthy if I need to sit up straight, Doris ● Joan Didion: “Where I Was From” rereads certain novels, such as Forster’s “Howards Lessing for a lecture, W.G. Sebald if I’m feeling smart, ● Ryszard Kapuscinski: “Shah of Shahs” End,” Tolstoy’s “Anna Karenina” (“I can’t hear above Nadine Gordimer to remind me that I’m not.” the screeching of those damn trains coming into the — Marc Karimzadeh

Amanda de LOS ANGELES — Whether she’s on the job or on the Cadenet’s town, party girl-actress-turned-photographer book cover. Amanda de Cadenet says she’s never without her point-and-shoot camera, much to the dismay of her friends. “I’m sure everyone I know is pretty sick of it,” she says. “I know my daughter and my boyfriend [Nick Valensi of The Strokes] are.” That may be so, but they ought to check out the results nonetheless. They’ll have an opportunity this month with the arrival of de Cadenet’s first book, “Rare Birds” (powerHouse Books), which is being Sophie Dahl, as captured accompanied by an exhibition and reception at the by Amanda de Cadenet. Staley-Wise Gallery in New York Thursday during fashion week, sponsored by Nikon. De Cadenet, who hosted the British talk show “The Word” and appeared in films such as “Four Rooms” and “Brokedown NG STAR Palace,” says the book’s title “is a way of honoring everyone’s unique personalities.” De Cadenet captures her subjects — including friends such as Drew Barrymore, Orlando Bloom and Rose McGowan — in delightfully unguarded moments. She dedicates the book to Atlanta, her daughter with ex-husband John Taylor (of Duran Duran fame), who was born when the British actress was just 17. “That was a huge turning point for me,” she says. “I photographed her every day, and she’s lived through most of the moments in this book.” De Cadenet first picked up a camera at boarding school. “I was really unhappy, and the only thing that gave me any joy was taking pictures of things at home.” But she soon discovered show business, and began acting at age 13. “By the time I hit 22, I was done being on camera,” she explains. “I was more interested in being behind it. “In acting, you’re always dependent on someone to tell you that you’re good enough, or that you got the part,” she concludes. “But anyone has access to a camera.” — Marcy Medina SHOOTI BRADLEY PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTO BY BRADLEY tel: +12129668994 - [email protected] 20 WWD, SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2005 WWD.COM Cheat Sheet Is it us, or do new designers multiply like bunnies every season? Here, WWD breaks down the lineup of fresh names and labels for all those overbooked retailers and editors. — Meenal Mistry and Sarah Taylor

NARY MANIVONG Juan’s Fashion Week, but this is her first time in New York. Saturday, Sept. 10, 11 a.m. Any sales? The line is sold at several Puerto Rico-based Pedigree: Nary Manivong, 23, spent stores such as Asi Boutique, as well as her own store. most of his teenage years homeless, What to expect: About 60 pieces in mostly chiffon silks and living on the streets of Columbus, linens, as well as a few swimwear looks. “The collection is Ohio. Nevertheless, when he was 17 very bohemian,” says Thon, “with a lot of details, bright he held his first runway show at a colors and beading.” local nightclub. (Manivong lied to the owner, telling him he was 21.) CAROLINE HEDAYA He then moved to New York, Sunday, Sept. 11, 3 p.m. enrolled in a summer course at FIT Pedigree: Manhattan native Caroline Hedaya and Long and met John Van Deilien, a Islander Donna Baxter, both 22, met while studying at FIT. private partner who agreed to First time out? Ye s, this is their debut collection. invest in his line, which is now in Any sales? Only private clients so far. Rag & Bone’s David Neville, Marcus its third season. What to expect: Forty looks in a palette of mostly navy and Wainwright and Nathan Bogle.

First time out? He made his New beige. “We start out by thinking of what we would want to THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTO BY Yo rk debut last season. wear,” says Hedaya. “Everything is beautiful but has a Any sales? Only private clients. practical, comfortable side.” DEREK GREEN What to expect: A small Monday, Sept. 12, noon presentation of nine looks, done Pedigree: Prior to launching his own line in 2000, Parsons mostly in silk and bright colors. “This grad Derek Green, 32, served as head designer for Tommy collection is inspired by a song called Hilfiger’s Tommy Girl line. Before that, Green, a ‘Flower,’” says Manivong. “Flowers Baltimore native, was the head designer at American should bloom again because to bloom Eagle Outfitters, where he was responsible for the is to give new life. I want to give new women’s woven and sweater divisions. A look by life to women and also to myself, as a First time out? Yes. Nary designer.” Any sales? Derek Green is sold at 300 stores, including Manivong. Fred Segal and New York-based Atrium. What to expect: Tropical colors such as turquoise, coral and Sarah Spratt and Eventide’s lime, as well as cheetah and zebra prints. “This season, I’m Christian Stroble. inspired by the tropical temptress — golden skin, seductive eyes, sensual curves and flowing hair,” says Green. The Blonds PHOTO BY SCOTTPHOTO BY EWALT

THE BLONDS Sunday, Sept. 11, 5 p.m. Pedigree: David and Philippe “Blond” (they’re in the process of legally changing their last names to Blond) have no formal design backgrounds. Before launching their label for fall 2005, David, 29, was a window dresser for stores such as Macy’s in New York and Saks Fifth Avenue in Bal Harbour, Fla., while Philippe, 21, was a makeup artist at MAC. First time out? Yes. Any sales? The line is sold at Patricia Field’s Venus EVENTIDE Hotel in New York, as well as to a private client base. Saturday, Sept. 10, 5 to 9 p.m. What to expect: Daywear with an evening sensibility. Derek Green Pedigree: Christian Stroble and Sarah “This collection was inspired by the fabulously bad, Spratt, both 25, met while attending FIT. but wickedly chic women of the James Bond movies,” They launched Eventide for spring 2004 after says David. “You will see a lot of beaded gowns which TEMPERLEY LONDON Spratt closed her two-seasons-old eponymous make great entrances, but even better getaways.” Monday, Sept. 12, 7 p.m. collection. Pedigree: Alice Temperley’s Temperley London label, First time out? The duo’s fall 2005 RAG & BONE which she launched in 2000, was an immediate success. collection was included in the Gen Sunday, Sept. 11, 9:30 p.m. Temperley, a St. Martins and Royal College graduate, Art presentation last season. Pedigree: British expats and high school friends Continued on page 42 Any sales? I Heart and Seven, both David Neville, 29, Nathan Bogle and Marcus in New York, as well as Factory Wainwright, both 30, started the hip denim- People in Austin and South Willard based collection for men last spring. For fall, in Los Angeles. The collection is they introduced a small collection for women. also available at several Tokyo Bogle, a former model, and Wainwright, a boutiques. former dot-commer, spent three years What to expect: About 25 pieces, apprenticing in New York to learn the art of inspired, according to Stroble, by patternmaking, tailoring and grading. “We women from the silent-film era. really want to embrace a lot of aspects of “This collection is a bit dark, but British tailoring,” says Bogle. Neville, once an still playful and with a few investment banker, handles the finances. punches of color,” he says. “It’s First time out? It’s their first fashion show. like Wednesday Addams grew up Any sales? Both the men’s and women’s lines and moved to Paris.” are sold at Barneys New York and Steven Alan in New York; United Arrows in Japan; Louis of LISA THON Boston and Matches in London. Saturday, Sept. 10, 7 p.m. What to expect: Fifteen women’s looks that Pedigree: Puerto Rican-born Bogle says capture the spirit of the trio’s designer Lisa Thon graduated friends and girlfriends, particularly Neville’s, from Parsons in 1991, then who is currently dating makeup artist Gucci returned to the island. She then Westman. (He also used to date Sienna started her line, opened her own store Miller.) “It’s that independent, professional and a fashion design school, too. Alook from Eventide. woman who can turn herself out for night, but Alice Temperley of First time out? She has shown during San then maybe likes a looser jean,” Bogle adds. Temperley London. AMERICA’S COTTON PRODUCERS AND IMPORTERS. ® Registered Service Mark/Trademark of Cotton Incorporated. © Cotton Incorporated, 2005. Cotton. Thefabricofourlives. Ensemble byCynthiaSteffe.Fabriccotton. smart ® www.cottoninc.com c y n t h i a oconnor +company

READY-TO-WEAR Julie Haus Ranna Gill Pia Hallstrom Tashia London Denim for Immortality Toast by Suzie Kondi

ACCESSORIES Sonya Madden Moss Lipow Black & Brown Jocelyn Minette Frank & Kahn

LOUNGEWEAR/ LINGERIE Pia Hallstrom Kiss My Feet

JEWELRY Shaesby Julie Sandlau Roberta Chiarella Chamak

HANDBAGS Kooba Be & D Botkier Gustto Felix Rey Flavio Olivera Tocca Toast

ENK Coterie Pier88 September 20–22 WWD, SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2005 23 WWD.COM win, muse or draw Clio and Calliope, step aside. This season’s cast of inspirational characters is the most varied of muses yet: John and Yoko, Sharon Stone, schoolgirls, the Rat Pack, even “Rocket” the dog.

For us, spring 2006 is “Fashion 101, and we want to be at the head of the ‘class.’ — Marc Jacobs” PHOTO COURTESY OF BRIAN FINKE AND CLAMPART, NEW YORK OF BRIAN FINKE AND CLAMPART, PHOTO COURTESY

“Jewels, old school Hollywood starlets, summertime parties, pickup trucks and lots of laughter.” —Natalie Chanin, Project Alabama

“The photography of Sam Haskins and John Severson. The new season looks to capture “A cross of squeaky-clean the essence of youthful conservative — the English innocence with a touch club sports like riding, sailing, of playful sensuality.” tennis — with the dirtier side —Derek Lam of rock ’n’ roll with a particular nod to Lou Reed and the Velvet

PHOTO BY NATALIE CHANIN NATALIE PHOTO BY Underground’s stripy Ts and drainpipes.” —Luella Bartley 24 WWD, SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2005

▲ “I love the candy box quality of illustrations in the Gazette du Bon Ton.” — Anna Sui IMAGE FROM “FRENCH FASHION PLATES IN FULL COLOR FROM THE GAZETTE DU BON TON” (DOVER PUBLICATIONS) IN FULL COLOR PLATES IMAGE FROM “FRENCH FASHION

▲“Unique pieces, nostalgic dresses and tribal prints inspired from around the world. Playful clothes in Caribbean colors and motifs awaiting Bohemian the arrival of spring chic“ meets break.” — Luca Orlandi, Sara Murphy. Luca Luca — Ralph Lauren”

▲ “If this collection were a mix tape, the first song would be AC/DC’s ‘Back in Black,’ and the last would be Tommy James and the Shondells’ ‘Crystal Blue Persuasion.’” — Christopher Crawford and Angela Deane, win, muse orChristopher Deane WWD, SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2005 25 WWD.COM

Nanette and her mother in the late Sixties. ANDY WARHOL FOUNDATION FOR THE VISUAL ARTS / ARTIST RIGHTS SOCIETY (ARS), NEW YORK / ARTIST ARTS FOR THE VISUAL FOUNDATION WARHOL ANDY ▲“A fabulous cactus-print dress ▲“Iconic pop culture. Think Andy Warhol.” that I bought on a trip to the — Andreas Melbostad, Phi Painted Desert. The dress reminded me of something my mother would have worn on one of our madcap adventures along Route 66. The dress and the desert set the tone for the sunbaked color palette and carefree yet glamorous silhouettes.” ▲“Peace, love and bloomers.” — Nanette Lepore — Betsey Johnson

“The freedom and artistic expression of Vienna just before the Twenties.” — Carolina Herrera

“Brush stroke.” — Donna Karan TELIER D’ORA, “DANCER,” 1923, COURTESY OF NEUE GALERIE NEW YORK 1923, COURTESY “DANCER,” TELIER D’ORA, draw A 26 WWD, SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2005 win, muse or draw

▲ From “The Fountainhead” by Ayn Rand: “Her face, her pale gold hair, her suit seemed to have no color, but only a hint, just on the verge of the reality of color, making the full reality seem vulgar.… She had an appearance of elegance become perversion, an appearance of wise, dangerous maturity achieved by looking like a very young girl.” —Francisco Costa, Calvin Klein COURTESY OF THE ORIENTALISTS BY KRISTIAN DAVIES/LAYNFAROH BY OF THE ORIENTALISTS COURTESY “Intricacies”

—Ralph Rucci, Chado ▲ “These days, I keep two pictures on my desk. One is of my paternal grandmother on her wedding day. The other is a photo I took of my niece, Emma, on the day of her first communion. Both are about ceremony, traditions and joy. And both ladies designed their own costumes — I made Emma’s dress from her sketch.” —Charles Nolan

“Voluptuous Femininity ” —Oscar de la Renta COURTESY OF CHARLES NOLAN COURTESY

▲ “A woman whose rhythm stops the room. Her waist, her hips, her breasts and the way she moves them. The samba, bossa nova, Copacabana, Brazil in the Fifties, especially [the 1959 movie] ‘Black Orpheus.’”

COURTESY OF THE CRITERION COLLECTION; BLACK ORPHEUS DVD AVAILABLE FROM THE CRITERION COLLECTION OF THE CRITERION COLLECTION; BLACK ORPHEUS DVD AVAILABLE COURTESY —Laura Poretzky, Abaéte WWD, SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2005 27 WWD.COM ▲ “‘The Attingham Trust Study Week’ “The wives of Roger Vadim, 1964 and the South of France.” Bach’s ‘Sleepers Awake’ — Michael Vollbracht, Bill Blass Emily Brontë’s poems “The strength, sexiness and style of contemporary Hollywood Temple Newsam House archives divas, screen legends and icons who have given the world tour Yorkshire, England, de force performances as some of the best characters of our ‘Blue John’ rock crystal time — such as Sharon Stone in ‘Casino.’” Capability Brown — Kimora Lee Simmons, Baby Phat James Payne “I’m inspired by ancient ‘The Adventure of Telemachus, decadent eras and the unique, the Son of Ulysses,’ by Fenelon glamorous women who lived 747s during them, for example, and Rocket the Dog.” Cleopatra.” — Reem Acra —Libertine ▲ “The heady days of Frank Sinatra and the Rat Pack at the legendary Sands Hotel.” — Carmen Marc Valvo

“The inspirational graphic designs of Bauhaus artist Oskar Schlemmer.” — VPL by Victoria Bartlett ROCKET THE DOG COURTESY OF LIBERTINE ROCKET THE DOG COURTESY “The work of Daniel Buren and Wook ▲ Kim, the idea of an easy silhouette contrasted by structure and tailoring.” This season is all about — Richard Chai “ “We looked at naturally occurring austere American romance. shapes and colors — the leaves on a ” tree or the petals of a flower — as well — Michael Kors as artists’ representations of these subjects.” — Jeffrey Costello and Robert Tagliapietra, Costello Tagliapietra

“The collection is imbued by a romantic safari feeling.” — Nelson and Sisi Li, Iisli

“Suspension bridges are awe-inspiring engineering feats. They are beautiful, gravity-defying structures that influenced the construction of my collection.” — Yeohlee Teng, Yeohlee

“Strenesse has returned for a summer of romantic minimalism, inspired by the German photographer Regina Relang.” — Gabriele Strehle, Strenesse

“Africa…the land of great beauties. The exotic nature and culture of Africa with a touch of the British Aristocrat.” — Zang Toi

“Ancient South American ornamentation and Shakespearean fairy tale are brought together.” — Alice Temperley, Temperley London

“I was inspired by Luc Besson’s film, ‘Le Grand Bleu.’ ” — Afshin Feiz

▲ “My inspirations for spring include the relationship of John “We are fascinated with and Yoko. I am fascinated by their humor, whimsy and William Randolph Hearst’s dedication to each other despite criticism of them. They also castle, San Simeon, and his look amazing running around London in all white, consuming yacht from the movie ‘The themselves with art and music.” Cat’s Meow.’ The art, the — Andrew Harmon furnishings, and the “A book by a Japanese fine art photographer named opulence are Yoshimitsu Nagasaka. His photographs focus on Koyasan, a intoxicating.” complex of Buddhist monasteries and temples on Mount —Mark Badgley and Koya.” James Mischka, — Ashish Soni, Ashish N Soni Badgley Mischka “I’ve chosen my cartoon crab. To the surreal edge, I’ve added polka dots and given it bug eyes, too. Summer brings out so many crazy-looking creatures and some of them are very well dressed. The beaches and undergrowth are teaming with exotica. It fascinates me that under our heels there is an entire empire that we are mostly oblivious to.” — B-Rude by Boy George

“We see the lightness and beauty ▲“The curio cabinet is the introduction of a of an exquisite bird in flight new silhouette. A silhouette that takes its cue exemplifying this feeling of from a fresh sea breeze, sweeping details freedom of style…Cate Blanchett forward around the body.” is such a bird.” — Hanii Y and Gene Kei, Y & Kei —A la Disposition ▲ 28 WWD, SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2005

▲ “Tropical chic — flowers and lace.” Brigitte — Vivienne Bardot Tam PHOTO BY SAM HASKINS PHOTO BY “Sam Haskins” —Thakoon Panichgul, Thakoon ▲ “The severe formality and femininity of win, muse or dra ‘Deadwood’ ▲ mixed with the “A soft, whimsy and sophisticated charm of Henri return to classic Matisse!” tailoring in a sandy, — Vera Wang seashell palette.” — Kai Kuhne, Myself

“The Sixties are definitely a decade that I was tapping into this season. Rather than the graphic, futuristic route, I chose the soft, sweet and slightly kitsch version.” — Alice Roi

▲ Catherine Malandrino WWD, SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2005 29 WWD.COM “Summer, ▲ “Old-World romance with hints of Sixties chic.” sunshine, — Monique Lhuillier butterflies “Spring is a mixture of sportif tailoring, seaside ease and The spirit of hyperdelicate femininity.” life… — Peter Som It’s a Thriller “Merging eras such as the Edwardian Belle Circa 1972 Epoque with the Sixties for a modern femininity. Big dreams in Ethnic accents refresh classic themes with a nod the minivan to India, Africa and Appalachia at the turn of the century and in the Sixties. Sargent’s Madame X, Take the fun the doe-eyed young girls of Clemente portraits, on the road ‘Rosemary’s Baby,’ ‘Pretty Baby’ and ‘The Age of Follow the Innocence’ referencing the delicate rainbow, embellishments and womanly flourishes. Parisian courtesans and Southern belles.” Bask in the ▲ — Tracy Reese breeze Maria Callas “When I first thought of spring, I panicked. Then I simply is singing thought of wisteria and the beauty of wild wisteria growing your song abundantly along the Tokyofreeway. I was also daydreaming of On a journey the Twenties and how wild and modern the drop waist was for to the the time.” — Gwen Stefani, L.A.M.B. unknown… Love is in the “I’ve been inspired by a certain moment in the history of the air Iberian peninsula when Christians, Moors and Jews lived in Love is a four- harmony, creating a multicultural region, extremely rich to the letter word humanity.” And it feels — Carlos Miele like heaven.” — Richie Rich “A mixed media collage by Stephen Edlich. Wonderful blacks and Traver — warm and cold, matte and shiny, smooth and textured, and a Rains, shot of color.” Heatherette — Einar Holilokk, Geoffrey Beene “The architectural works of Le Corbusier during his Modernist phase as well as the De Stijl works on Mondrian.” — Cynthia Steffe

▲ “The lure of the Seventies beach-club culture. I became “My fascinated with images of the summering set at play — pictures aw inspiration capturing careless privilege awash in the excesses of the day. and color The subtly subversive photography of Slim Aarons provided an palette were additional reference point, lending a provocative B-side to the inspired by the collection.” romantically — Jenni Kayne moody photos “A mélange of great Mediterranean journeys. A walk through a of Deborah jasmine garden in Marrakech or a cruise through the Greek Turbeville. I Islands — Lee Radziwill in the Seventies. A beautiful sunset on incorporated the island of Ibiza — places that make you dream and truly feminine to a relax.” — Tory Burch, Tory by TRB very structured “The freedom movements of the late Sixties and Seventies. A silhouette.” message of freedom.” — Doo.Ri — Alexandre Herchcovitch

“Clothing that moves, creating shapes of color. Silhouette is subtly inspired by modern art.” — Jeff Mahshie, Chaiken

“The idea of ‘social uniformity,’ a formal take on American sportswear with structure and a “A celebration disciplined use of color. I favor a more tailored look while hinting at a subversive playfulness through novel fabrics and embellishments. This of the art of season the collection is focused around neutral tones like navy, ivory and gray.” ▲ dressmaking.” — Matthew Earnest — Gilles Mendel, J.Mendel “I’ve been looking at the metamorphosis work of M.C. Escher, which has provided me with ideas for graphic, contemporary prints, weaves and jewel-like beading.” — Matthew Wiliamson

“A clash of pirates and preppies in a celebration of theatrical detailing, and Old-World luxury.” — Heidi Middleton and Sarah-Jane Clarke, Sass & Bide

“I am looking at women as ▲ though through the eyes of photographer William Klein. This season’s prerogative is the deconstruction of pretty. Pretty exists but only as ephemera; sequins wrapped in burlap, decayed and jet printed lace. The silhouettes are still graceful but they pout with insouciance.” — Lela Rose 30 WWD, SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2005

WWD.COM ▲

▲ Cynthia Rowley ▲ “Silhouettes are modern and clean, embellishment is subtle and refined; Moorish-inspired soutache ribbon embroidery, warm African spice colors played off cool lagoon tones evoke glamorous destinations.” — George Sharp, Ellen Tracy IMAGE FROM MARIKO MORI; IMAGE FROM MARIKO RICHARD LEAROYD PHOTO BY “Sophisticated earth glamour.” — Kit Willow Michelmore, Willow

“New York, the capital of the world, and its relation to 20th- and 21st-century dance.” — Y-3

“American Style — timeless, free, easy.” — Douglas Hannant ▲ “The photography of Louise Dahl-Wolfe, “A girl who gets pulled out of a Catholic school and put into a specifically her work Waldorf school. The collection from Harper’s Bazaar in documents her wardrobe the Thirties and Forties. through its transition.” She pioneered the use of — Gary Graham natural lighting and outdoor locations. Her “The number of my show has always inspired me — there will photos evoke feelings of be seven- pointed stars in one of innocence and my prints, for example. The star sophistication, romance made me think of Siouxsie Sioux, and resistance, rigor and which brought up sea horses, restraint.” The mood Leon Bakst, Gustav Klimt, “The — Wolfgang Joop, “ Geometry, Alchemy and really weightless is young relooking at past ideas through Wunderkind my 2006 Siouxsie eyes.” volume of OUISE DAHL-WOLFE/STALEY/WISE GALLERY, NEW YORK GALLERY, OUISE DAHL-WOLFE/STALEY/WISE innocence

L — Zaldy loungewear evoking the air of effortless, and summer inconspicuous wanderlust. “For my debut collection, I was luxury.” ” inspired by my younger sister, — Max Azria, BCBG win, muse or draw — Zac Posen Annabelle Dexter-Jones, and the movie ‘Blue Lagoon.’” — Charlotte Ronson A very tiny-waisted “woman and a long-torsoed “The sinuous lines, organic textures and rustic metallics of man. The research was as the Art Nouveau painter eclectic as the films of Alphonse Mucha.” Fellini, Antonioni and — Maria Cornejo, Zero Maria Cornejo Truffaut, photographs by “I became enamored with Anaïs Nin and Lee Miller because of Alair Gomes and the their intellect, strength and sensuality of beauty. The music of Erik Satie and images of [Edward]

surrealist S/THAMES & HUDSON surrealist Steichen’s photography danced form. through my head as I thought of —” Narciso ways to translate it to spring.” Rodriguez — Michon Schur “Spring contrasts the fluid and organic lines of Art Nouveau with the primness of an English garden. It’s a spirit of rural freedom where smokey Swarovski crystals land on delicate buds and blooms of a cotton dress, glistening like drops of dew.” — Sari Gueron

“King Tut goes surfing.” — Jeremy Scott

“It’s Alexandre Dumas’ classic novel re-imagined as ▲ Bryan Bradley, Tuleh Grandmaster Flash & The Furious 5 with The Antoinettes as a double-Dutch skipping team wearing airbrushed active sportswear and toile printed “Sevillanas summer dresses.” and The Feria — Keanan Duffty “Ottomani: An Ottoman flair of Sevilla.” meets space galaxy.” — Alvin Valley — Atil Kutoglu

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Mark Badgley and Badgley Mischka: James Mischka. Back to Business

By Rosemary Feitelberg Before going out on their own, Badgley spent two years at Donna Karan and Mischka did the same at Willy Smith, where the de- NEW YORK — Mark Badgley and James Mischka spent last signer’s limo was always at the ready parked at the loading dock. September’s fashion week squirreled away in their Hamptons At the new showroom at 550 Seventh Avenue, there will be house, fielding phone calls from prospective buyers. plenty of Badgley Mischka designs to fill the space. The duo also “We left New York. It was too depressing,” Badgley said during has licenses for daytime and evening handbags, eyewear, furs, an interview at the designers’ temporary showroom space at 215 bridal, fragrance and accessories. Eyewear will hit the stores in West 40th Street. “It was a very strange feeling not having a show. December and fragrance will follow for spring. Freestanding We didn’t want to be around.” stores are also in the works through a licensing deal with Pristine Fast-forward to today and it’s clear the pair is now running on Fashion Group. all cylinders. More than 700 Badgley Mischka followers are ex- Badgley Mischka has reopened its Beverly Hills boutique and pected at its Wednesday night runway show at The Waterfront. plans to unveil another in Palm Desert in late November or early The company is tripling its show budget compared with previous December. There is also an aggressive search for sites in shows and hopes to show off the major star who will appear in the Manhattan, Bal Harbour, Palm Beach, Houston, Washington, D.C. brand’s first national ad campaign next season. No one would and Las Vegas. The designers are eager to put forward the whole ever describe their frocks as understated and this spring is no ex- Badgley Mischka aesthetic, which extends beyond their easily ception. Marion Davies and William Randolph Hearst’s high-fly- identified, elegant evening dresses. Lining up a smattering of ing days at the 115-room Hearst Castle in San Simeon, Calif., pro- stores across the country should do just that, Badgley said. vided a healthy dollop of inspiration. “Stores can be much more successful, when they have more Clearly the company has weathered its share of changes since lifestyle products.” Candie’s Inc., which has since switched its name to the Iconix There should be even more products to choose from before too Brand Group, acquired it in November. long. Talks are under way to secure licenses for diamond jewelry, Badgley said, “We wanted to do a small typical fashion show lingerie, home and shoes before the end of the year, they said. during the day, and [Iconix chairman and chief executive officer] Rehiring 35 employees, who lost their jobs when the company Neil [Cole] said, ‘No, this should be a celebration. Let’s do a big, disbanded last year, and returning to factories that produced pre- gorgeous fashion show at night and have a party afterwards.’” vious collections were crucial elements of re-creating the brand’s Say no more. authenticity, they said. Badgley Mischka was forced to sit out the spring More than anything, the Iconix deal has 2005 season, after its former parent company, It’s all we talk freed them up from number-crunching and Escada USA, was saddled with financial problems “ other business tasks to allow them to be more and put the U.S. designer house on the block. But about morning, creative. “Just having the support and backup Badgley Mischka made good on its vow to be back in makes us not have to worry about watching business with a fall 2005 collection. Candie’s made noon and night. our backs so much. Plus, I can watch Mark’s that happen, by buying B.E.M. Enterprises Ltd., the and he can watch mine,” Mischka said. holding company for the Badgley Mischka business, I would like to tell The truth is that work is always a top prior- last year from Escada USA, which had owned the ity for them. “It’s all we talk about morning, brand since 1992. This fall Candie’s changed its you something noon and night. I would like to tell you some- name to Iconix. thing different,” Badgley said. Looking back, something the designers only do different. No surprise most of their conversation when asked to, Badgley said, “Perhaps we should —” Mark Badgley these days centers on Wednesday night’s have made this change earlier than we did. That is show, which will be held in the renovated something that we all would agree on.” space that used to be the nightclub The Tunnel. In a telephone interview, Cole said, “I always thought they “They call it The Waterfront now. It sounds better. A lot of peo- made the most beautiful dresses out there. I looked at it like an ple have a history with The Tunnel, which they do or do not re- uncut diamond. They didn’t have anything beyond their couture member,” Mischka mused. dress business. This was the perfect opportunity to build a phe- Regardless of their memory capacity, guests will enter through nomenal luxury business and to diversify Iconix, which until then the site’s back door. “The front entrance was too fancy for us,” had been largely thought of as a junior business.” Badgley said. Badgley Mischka is on its way to becoming a $100 million annu- For now, Iconix is busy readying for the first national Badgley al business by 2009. With eight licenses in place, the company ex- Mischka advertising campaign, which makes its debut this coming pects to generate $30 million in sales in 2006 — well above the $20 spring. Details about the in-house multimillion-dollar effort are million business it was at its peak with Escada, Cole said. still being sorted out, but print, outdoor and multimedia compo- Under the old regime, Escada was priority number one, and as nents are expected to be included. “We like outdoor. We had a bill- a result, Badgley Mischka fell short of its plans to line up a licens- board in Hollywood once that we loved,” Mischka said. ing portfolio. “The focus really was on Escada. At the time, they Apparently, Hollywood starlets share that admiration. In re- were in such financial difficulties themselves,” Mischka said. cent months, a steady stream of celebrities and stylists have come Badgley finished the thought, as they often instinctively do for knocking, but the designers declined to name any due to the sur- each other without interrupting or the slightest gesture for help. prise factor and competitiveness of suiting up stars for red-carpet “We had a nice long run with them, but we needed a parent com- events. But when Badgley demurred with, “Everyone is being re- pany where we would be the focus and priority,” he said. ally supportive,” Iconix’s public relations director, Maria As soon as Candie’s stepped in to the rescue, some eyebrows Dolgetta, interjected. “They’re being modest. We have had so were raised that a company known for its racy Jenny McCarthy many requests from celebrities,” rolling her eyes at the thought. ads was buying a well-known designer brand. But the designers Their friend Cornelia Guest is another one of their biggest said they were drawn to Cole’s enthusiasm, entrepreneurial spir- supporters and is eager to see their daytime clothes. She met it and non-Seventh Avenue mentality. Instead of “Sell, sell, sell,” them at their first fashion show at the Bel Air Hotel years ago, he advised them to reposition the company as a licensing and quickly befriended them and rides horses regularly with Badgley, marketing one instead of a manufacturing entity. “It wasn’t a mat- an accomplished equestrian. (He finished third in this year’s ter of doing the same old thing with someone else’s money,” Hamptons Classic.) Mischka said. “They make really beautiful classic clothes. There aren’t many Cole has also been instrumental in helping them “sniff out” people left who really do that. They are also so consistent — they strong licensing partners. First up was Groupe JS International, never go off on a tangent. And you don’t have to be a coat hanger the manufacturer that is producing Badgley Mischka couture and to wear their clothes.” eveningwear. Bridge and designer sportswear collections are Even with their show a week away, the designers are low-key to planned for spring 2007, but details are still being ironed out. the point of seeming downright calm. “We’re nervous,” Mischka Next month, Badgley Mischka relocates to a showroom at 550 allowed. Seventh Avenue, the only address on Seventh Avenue they were Whatever the task at hand, they said they relish any comic re- interested in occupying. That’s a real milestone for their 17-year- lief. “There’s a lot of anxiety. But we try to have fun throughout old business, so much so that it is hard to imagine them as the the process, because at the end of the day, this is what we do,”

struggling Parsons School of Design students they once were. Badgley said. PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE WWD, SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2005 33 WWD.COM 34 WWD, SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2005 Runway Report 1 1 NEW YORK — These girls were made for walking and that’s just what they’ll do — and they’ll do it all over town this runway season. Here, WWD’s inside look at the hottest new faces to watch for during New York Fashion Week. — David Yassky and Carter Love

1 Thais Oliviera Agency: Next Hometown: Brazil Age: 15 Height: 5’ 8” Eye color: blue green Hair color: brown Song you would most like to walk down the runway to: “Hammer Time” by MC Hammer. I’m obsessed right now with: New York designers. Favorite superhero: Catwoman If you could name a perfume, what would you call it?: “Thais Oliviera by Chanel” 2 The last movie that made you cry: “Love Actually” Whom you’d most like to meet, alive or dead: Elvis

2 Tatiana Lyadockrina Agency: New York Model Management Hometown: Penza, Russia Age: 17 3 Height: 5’ 9” Eye color: green Hair color: blonde Can’t live without: my necklaces. I’m obsessed right now with: my family. If you could name a perfume, what would you call it?: “Sunshine” The last movie that made you cry: “Titanic” Whom you’d most like to meet, alive or dead: Kate Moss

3 Anna Barsukova Agency: Supreme Hometown: Tomsk, Russia Age: 17 Height: 5’ 10” Eye color: blue Hair color: blonde Song you would most like to walk down the runway to: “Frank Sinatra” by Miss Kittin and the Hacker. Favorite superhero: Russell Crowe The last movie that made you cry: “Vanilla Sky” Whom you’d most like to meet, alive or dead: Tsar Alexander II

4 Snejana Onopka Agency: DNA Hometown: Kiev, Ukraine Age: 18 Height: 5’ 9 1/2” Eye color: blue Hair color: blonde Song you would most like to walk down the runway to: “My Prerogative” by Britney Spears. I can’t live without: my mother and little brother. Favorite superhero: Catwoman If you could name a perfume, what would you call it?: “Snowflake.” They are fresh and clean and remind me of my country. The last movie that made you cry: “The Notebook” 5 Whom you’d most like to meet, alive or dead: Marilyn Monroe 4

5 Marie Louise Agency: Ford Hometown: Kotka, Finland Age: 20 Height: 5’ 11” Eye color: blue Hair color: dark brown Song you would most like to walk down the runway to: anything by The White Stripes. I’m obsessed right now with: reading at night. Favorite superhero: my father. If you could name a perfume, what would you call it?: “Unforgettable,” because I’d imagine 5 that everyone wants to have unforgettable moments in life and leave lasting impressions. The last movie that made you cry: “Life Is Beautiful” WWD, SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2005 35 WWD.COM

6 Kasia Wrobel Agency: Next Hometown: Warsaw Age: 14 Height: 5’ 11” Eye color: blue Hair color: light brown Song you would most like to walk down the runway to: “Legs” by ZZ Top. I’m obsessed right now with: living in New York City. Favorite superhero: Shrek 2 If you could name a perfume, what would you call it: “Aqua by Kasia,” because I love the water. The last movie that made you cry: “Troy,” when Brad Pitt was dying. Whom you’d most like to meet, alive or dead: John Lennon

7 Holly Haden 7 Agency: Elite Hometown: Stony Brook, N.Y. Age: 15 Height: 5’ 11” Eye color: blue Hair color: brown 9 Song you would most like to walk down the runway to: “Close to Me” by The Cure. I can’t live without: my vintage AC/DC T-shirt. I’m obsessed right now with: text messaging. Favorite superhero: Wonder Woman Whom you’d most like to meet, alive or dead: Marilyn Monroe 8 9 8 Emanuela de Paula Agency: Marilyn Hometown: Pernambuco, Brazil Age: 16 Height: 5’ 9” Eye color: black Hair color: brown Song you would most like to walk down the runway to: anything by Destiny’s Child. I can’t live without: my talisman. I’m obsessed right now with: shoes. The last movie that made you cry: “Dark Water” Whom you’d most like to meet, alive or dead: Elvis

9 Bruna Freire 1 Agency: Marilyn Hometown: Boa Esperanca, Brazil Age: 15 0 Height: 5’ 11” Eye color: light brown Hair color: light brown Song you would most like to walk down the runway to: “Take Me Out” Favorite superhero: Wonder Woman If you could name a perfume, what would you call it?: “Freibru” The last movie that made you cry: I always cry! Whom you’d most like to meet, alive or dead: Kate Moss

10 Yulia Vasltsova Agency: Trump Hometown: Moscow Age: 19 Height: 5’ 10” Eye color: blue green Hair color: brown Song you would most like to walk down the runway to: “Ray of Light” by Madonna. Favorite superhero: Donald Duck I’m obsessed right now with: photography. If you could name a perfume, what would you call it?: “Wild Cherry” The last movie that made you cry: “All About My Mom” Whom you’d most like to meet, alive or dead: Charlie Chaplin

11 Sasha Agency: IMG Hometown: Moscow Age: 19 Height: 5’ 8 1/2” Eye color: blue Hair color: dark blonde Song you would most like to walk down the runway to: “In Da Club” by 50 Cent. I can’t live without my: contact solution. Favorite superhero: Shrek The last movie that made you cry: “Living Fresh” 10 11 Whom you’d most like to meet, alive or dead: Verushka 36 WWD, SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2005 WWD.COM

There’s a lot of talk about the return to minimalism. I’m wondering whether the feminine issue will continue. Designers I’m looking forward to seeing: Oscar de la Renta, Ralph Lauren, Michael Kors, Anna Sui, Marc Jacobs — if I get invited (hint) — People With the Pencils Tuleh and Ralph Rucci. I’d like to see some new emerging talent. By Sharon Edelson with less emphasis on bright and electric colors. to see less girly, flouncy fashion. The low-waist What I’d like to see more of: We do a very big Designers we’re watching this season: We are approach to trousers is retired already. I love a business in denim and I want to see what’s the NEW YORK — Change is in the air and retailers watching all of the new designers; the legacy of trouser-y looking trouser and I think we’re next move in denim. Above all, I want to see have gotten a whiff of it. Bendel’s is to support fresh, young talent. We getting away from super-tight clothes. realistic fashion. After a season of wall-to-wall prairie skirts, are very interested to see Brian Reyes and Jenni What I’d like to see more of: I’m looking for some The look or trend I’d like to see retired: I’m sick bohemian tunics and frilly blouses, fashion Kayne in particular. color trends. Navy is going to be big even for of long skirts and gypsy looks. executives are getting weary of whimsy. They’re The look or trend I’d like to see retired: Pieces spring and white will be big. I’m going to be New designers I’m exited about: We’re bringing new ready for a new approach. with heavy crystal embellishment, and looking for trends in ornamentation and how people from the contemporary world in California A few have invoked the “M” word, but some bohemian tunics. people are applying adornments to their special and opening an exclusive shop for Muchacha. are afraid to mention minimalism lest it bring Open-to-buy: Our open-to-buy is never as large things. It’s going to be interesting to see how Open-to-buy: Business has been good. The back memories of the severe fashions of the as we would want it to be. this more minimally directed approach will beginning of the season has been very positive. mid- to late-Nineties, where lines were strict translate to styles with an ethnic inspiration. We’re opening the new third floor. We’re very and embellishment was scarce. Retailers expect Joan Kaner, senior vice president and fashion Designers I’m looking forward to seeing: I’m optimistic so there’s no issue with budget. to see cleaned-up silhouettes, soft color director, Neiman Marcus. seeing twice as many new people in New York palettes and a judicious use of beading and Changes I’m anticipating: I hope the more as I’m seeing in Milan and Paris. Michael Fink, vice president and fashion embroidery. They also hope to find something sophisticated and pulled-together look that Open-to-buy: About the same as last year. This is director, Saks Fifth Avenue. they’ve never seen before that can add a new we’re seeing continues. I know we’ll see some an energy city — as in petroleum — so we can Designers I’m looking forward to seeing: I always phrase to fashion’s vocabulary. very feminine, romantic looks and full skirts. I be pretty well isolated from economic woe. We look forward to Marc Jacobs — you never know Before they headed to the shows, WWD keep thinking a sleeker silhouette is the way to don’t feel the same pinch others do. where he’s going to take you! Derek Lam always asked some store executives about their hopes go. I expect we’ll see a combination. Dresses presents an assured collection of beautiful and fears for spring. will be important and novelty pants. White will Cedric Charbit, general merchandise manager separates for a modern woman. Bryan Bradley continue along with pastels, beige, olive, green for women’s fashion, Printemps. at Tuleh always has a unique message, and I Jeffrey Kalinsky, owner Jeffrey New York, and and khaki. Hopefully, the bohemian look is not People have been buzzing about: The first Marc love that he just throws it at you. Its your choice director of merchandising, Nordstrom. over. I think versions of it will remain. Jacobs store in Paris opening soon. to duck or join in on the fun. Vera Wang’s What I’d like to see: Probably what’s not on my People are buzzing about: There are a lot of What I expect to see this season: Great dresses, separates have been absolutely magical and I shopping list. I always have high hopes of finding young designers scheduled so I think there will from day to eveningwear, for all women, all can’t wait to see where she goes this season. new things that are inspirational unto themselves. People are buzzing about: We were all waiting for People have been buzzing about: Brian Reyes. I’ve a “Battle of the Stars” between Gwen Stefani definitely heard a lot of buzz about his show. and Beyoncé Knowles, but that’s on hold. Changes I’m anticipating: I’m going to need Changes I’m anticipating: I hope fall’s tailored some skirts with volume and pencil skirts. The suitings continue, of course reinterpreted for prairie skirt has legs, especially in the luxury spring. I love the return to dressing up. I would market if done differently than the street like to see designers take more chances and versions. The tunic also has legs, but it has to deliver more consistent messages. be new. I don’t think they can depend on the Robert Burke, Nicole Fischelis, Scott Tepper and Jeffrey Kalinsky. What I’d like to see more of: Cleaned-up embellishment of last season. silhouettes, more craftsmanship, attention to Designers I’m watching this season: I love all the be something to buzz about. prices, and really glamourous looks, early Sixties details and sophistication. American designers we carry: Oscar de la What I’d like to see more of: I would like the spirit as inspired by Lee Radziwill, couture Look or trend I’d like to see retired: Please, pack Renta, Michael Kors, Narciso Rodriguez, collections to be more pulled together, a little details, because we need elegance and quality, all the bows and ribbons away! Proenza Schouler, Thakoon, Behnaz Sarafpour, more soigné. We’ve been through a period of all mixed with a retro Brigitte Bardot look. Libertine and Project Alabama. bad taste with a print on the bottom and a What I’d like to see more of: I want to see more Robert Burke, senior vice president of fashion, Open-to-buy: Very open. We had a great spring different print on top. It’s been an excessive new volumes and proportions and more retro- Bergdorf Goodman. and fall has started really strong. I’m going in time in fashion and it’s time to pare it down. It chic styles. Designers I’m looking forward to seeing: I was a very with a very optimistic point of view. should not quite be minimalistic. It doesn’t Changes I’m anticipating: New silhouettes are on, big fan of Marc Jacobs’ fall show and always have have to be ornate or overdone. as denim is not the answer anymore. For his pre- high hopes for him setting trends. We’ve had Scott Tepper, fashion director and divisional Designers I’m looking forward to seeing: All of the collection, Marc Jacobs did a great job of mixing wonderful success with Carolina Hererra and Oscar merchandise manager of apparel, accessories, American top designers and all the young designers, early Nineties and Sixties styles with ultra- de la Renta. This is a good time for Francisco and lingerie, Henri Bendel. including Derek Lam, Jeffrey Chow, Behnaz feminine looks and incredibly detailed pieces. Costa in terms of trends. I’m also interested in People have been buzzing about: There is Sarafpour, Proenza Schouler and Zac Posen. Designers I’m watching: It’s a secret. some of the newer designers, such as Derek Lam, tremendous buzz around Gwen Stefani’s first Open-to-buy: I don’t talk about it. The look or trend I’d like to see retired: VIP Jeffrey Chow, Thakoon and Zac Posen. runway show for L.A.M.B. The line is on fire for denim collections. What I expect to see this season: I think there’s still us, and we are excited to see what level she will Evelyn Gorman, owner, Mix, Houston. Open-to-buy: Brands should stop increasing going to be a big play on proportion. It’s not going take it to next. Heatherette’s launch last month Designers I’ll be watching: I’m anxious to see their prices. We will put the money on those to be a “more is more” kind of season. I expect a in the store was literally a mob scene. As this is Roland Mouret, Boudica, Jeremy Laing and that also regard what you get for the price, no lot of dresses to the floor, and then go to the other only their second collection, it should continue Doo.Ri. Matthew Earnest may also be interesting. matter the brand. extreme to shorter dresses à la Balenciaga. There to be an interesting evolution. I’m also looking for things I’ve never seen before. will be a refined French influence. I think you’re I’d like to see: A more natural, authentic People are buzzing about: Doo.Ri and Boudica. Nicole Fischelis, vice president and fashion going to see some colors but not a profusion of interpretation of femininity. Our customers are Those will be new to me. Talk on the street and director for ready-to-wear, Macy’s East. colors. The suit will continue to be strong. not looking for another Eighties redux, or in conversation with my p.r. company in New Changes I’m anticipating: I’d like to see an Changes I’m anticipating: I hope and expect to Victorian costumes for spring, so our challenge York is that they’re something fresh. evolution from embellishment and using see everything quite designed. I think it will be is to find the right balance of earthiness without Changes I’m anticipating: I was very wary of the embellishment differently. It’s going to be very much a refined season. It’s not going to be veering off into granola territory. girly, youth-inspired fashion of recent seasons. I interesting to see how the whole skirt issue sex-in-your-face or extreme. It will be refined, Changes I’m anticipating: We want to offer our really love a classic minimalist presentation. It’s evolves. I want to see a new direction in denim. like Rochas, Chanel, Balenciaga. customer embellishment and sparkle, but in a easy, sophisticated and modern, and that’s the I’m also anxious to see the safari mood, which Look or trend I’d like to see retired: I don’t want to see softer, more natural way for spring 2006. We also direction fashion is going. is coming back very strongly, and how the a prairie skirt. I’m pretty over shrugs. I don’t feel feel that a sorbet color palette will be important, Looks or trends I’d like to see retired: I would like African influence will translate on the runway. like a very bohemian look or an overt sex appeal. ADVERTISEMENT New Victorian line. New All images from the McClintock Collections’ All images from the McClintock o McClintock Introduces New Victorian o September 19-23 • 1412 Broadway • 212-354-5392

Scott and Jessica McClintock introduce their new contemporary always used Victorian elements in her designs. “I have a debut at the recent MAGIC show in Las Vegas. The line is also collection, New Victorian. romantic flair. Romance has always been what influences and being featured in advertisements in leading fashion magazines. Famous for creating romantic clothing that brings out every inspires me.” “Whether you are dressing for work, play or a night on the woman’s true beauty, McClintock’s new contemporary line, Satin, velvet, lace and brocade are vamped up for a new town, the McClintock Collection is all you need to make an McClintock Collections, continues that tradition. The Spring look in New Victorian, combining the past with the present. unforgettable fashion statement,” stated McClintock. collection, titled New Victorian, includes Victorian inspired “Whether you dress it up with accessories or down with jeans, For information on McClintock Collections contact: clothing with a modern twist; the pieces are sophisticated the New Victorian collection highlights an individual’s sense Angela Vaccaro and beautiful. of style,” stated McClintock. 1412 Broadway #2400, New York, NY 10018 “It just happens that Victoriana is extremely important in The New Victorian line incorporates antique lace, laundered Tel: 212-354-5392; Fax: 212-391-3849 the world of fashion right now,” revealed McClintock, founder linen, stretch cotton with a herringbone pattern, matte E-mail: [email protected] and designer of Jessica McClintock, Inc., the San Francisco jersey, antique cotton brocades and select pieces in denim. Merrie Santoro based company. “I’m a romantic person, and love Victorian The story includes ebony, chalk, soft floral, and prints with 110 East 9th St. #B-557, Los Angeles, CA 90079 elements and Victorian details.” baroque elements. Retail price points will be $100-$520. Tel: 213-955-0241; Fax: 213-955-0250 McClintock has always been inspired by Victoriana and has The McClintock Collections line New Victorian had its E-mail: [email protected]

Jessica McCintock, Inc. 1400 16th St., San Francisco, CA 94103 415-553-8200 www.jessicamcclintock.com 38 WWD, SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2005 Olympus Fashion Week, Sp Information is gathered primarily from Ruth Finley’s Fashion Calendar and is accurate as of press time. Attendees are encouraged to confirm times and locations.

SATURDAY, SEPT. 10 3 p.m.: Atil Kutoglu, The Plaza, Bryant Park 7 p.m.: Lisa Thon, Midtown Exhibit Center, 560 11 a.m.-Noon: Nary Manivong, 152-158 West 26th 4 p.m.: Lemington Ridley, Scandinavia House, 58 Park Seventh Avenue Street, suite 35 Avenue 7 p.m.: Keanan Duffty, Aveda Academy, 80 Vandam Street 11 a.m.: Rachel Comey, Altman Building, 135 West 18th 4 p.m.: Project Alabama, UPS Hub 7 p.m.: Lacoste, The Tent, Bryant Park Street 4 p.m.: Patrik Rzepski, Clurman@Theatre Row, 410 West 8 p.m.: Sass & Bide, The Plaza, Bryant Park 11 a.m.: Miguel Pena, Hiro, 336 West 16th Street 42nd Street 8 p.m.: Momo Falana, Bryant Park Hotel Cellar Noon: Gary Graham, UPS Hub 5 p.m.: Holly Kristen, The Atelier, Bryant Park 9 p.m.: Baby Phat, Radio City Music Hall Noon: David Rodriguez, Style Lounge, 1500 Broadway 5 p.m.: Stephen Burrows, Robert Miller Gallery, 524 9 p.m.: Patricia Field, handbag installation, Style Noon: Sari Gueron, The New Space, 530 West 21st West 26th Street Lounge, 1500 Broadway Street 5-9 p.m.: Eventide, 87 Lafayette Street 1 p.m.: Zaldy, Altman Building, 135 West 18th Street 6 p.m.: Jennifer Nicholson, Altman Building, 135 West SUNDAY, SEPT. 11 2 p.m.: Rosa Cha by Amir Slama, The Tent, Bryant Park 18th Street 10 a.m.: Strenesse Gabriele Strehle, The Plaza, Bryant Park 11 a.m.: Y & Kei, The Tent, Bryant Park 11 a.m.: Cat Swanson, 336 West 37th Street, Sixth floor 11 a.m.: Ruffian, National Arts Club, 15 Gramercy Park South Noon: Ashish n Soni, UPS Hub Noon: Costello Tagliapietra, The Altman Building, 135 West 18th Street Noon: Binetti, The Park, 118 Luxurious. Lustrous. Lasting. Tenth Avenue 1 p.m.: Twinkle by Wenlan, The cotton for fashion. The Atelier, Bryant Park 1-6 p.m.: Jay Godfrey installation, Peter White Studio, 601 West 26th Street, 14th floor 2 p.m.: Tracy Reese, The Plaza, Bryant Park 2:30-5:30 p.m.: Josie Natori (informal modeling), 180 Madison Avenue 3 p.m.: Alexandre Herchcovitch, The Tent, Bryant Park 3 p.m.: Caroline Hedaya, Style Lounge, 1500 Broadway 3 p.m.: Lower East Side BID (outdoor runway featuring 40 designers), Orchard and Stanton Streets 4 p.m.: Doo.Ri, UPS Hub 5 p.m.: Luella Bartley, New

Vera Wang

www.supima.com WWD, SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2005 39 WWD.COM pring 2006 Show Schedule

York Yacht Club, 37 West 44th Street 8 p.m.: Showroom 30 showcase, Altman Building, 135 2 p.m.: Behnaz Sarafpour, Drive-In Studios, 443 West 5 p.m.: Academy of Art University, The Atelier, Bryant West 18th Street 18th Street Park 8 p.m.: Marc Jacobs, N.Y. State Armory, 68 Lexington 2 p.m.: Multi by Bree, Bryant Park Grill, Bryant Park 5 p.m.: The Blonds, 135 West 41st Street Avenue 3 p.m.: Zang Toi, The Tent, Bryant Park 5-7 p.m.: Lambertson Truex preview, 230 West 17th 4 p.m.: Marc by Marc Jacobs, N.Y. State Armory, 68 Street, Sixth floor TUESDAY, SEPT. 13 Lexington Avenue 6 p.m.: Diane von Furstenberg, 389 West 12th Street 9 a.m.: Ellen Tracy, 575 Seventh Avenue, 10th floor 5 p.m.: Roland Mouret, TBD 6:30 p.m.: Sweettooth w/ AG Jeans, Style Lounge, 1500 9 a.m.: Tibi, The Atelier, Bryant Park 5 p.m.: Mac Millan, Marquee, 289 Tenth Avenue Broadway 9 a.m.-5 p.m.: Angel Sanchez, 526 Seventh Avenue 5-6:30 p.m.: Charlotte Ronson, QT Hotel, 125 West 7 p.m. Tuleh, The Plaza, Bryant Park 10 am.: Monique Lhuillier, The Plaza, Bryant Park 45th Street 7-11 p.m.: Talavera opening, 145 Avenue of the 11 a.m.: Bill Blass, The Tent, Bryant Park 5-7 p.m.: MarieMarie, Penthouse@ Morgans, 237 Americas, 4B Noon: Matthew Williamson, Industria, 775 Washington Madison Avenue 7:30 p.m.: Avion, 20 East 17th Street, Second floor Street) 6 p.m.: Malan, St.. Malachy’s (chapel), 239 West 49th Street 8 p.m.: Luca Luca/Luca Orlandi, The Tent, Bryant Park 1 p.m.: Chaiken, The Atelier, Bryant Park 6 p.m.: Pamella Roland, The Atelier, Bryant Park 9 p.m.: Venexiana by Kati Stern, The Atelier, Bryant Park 1 p.m. & 2 p.m.: Zero Maria Cornejo, 225 Mott Street Continued on page 40 9 p.m.: Kai Milla, Celeste Bartos Forum, N.Y. Public Library 9 p.m.: Levi Okunov, Pier 65 Maritime, 12th Avenue and 23rd Street 9:30 p.m.: Rag & Bone (women’s and men’s), 5 Ninth, 5 Ninth Avenue

MONDAY, SEPT. 12 9 a.m.: Dana Buchman, 575 7th Avenue, Second floor 9 a.m.: Joanna Mastroianni, The Atelier, Bryant Park 10 a.m.: Carolina Herrera, The Tent, Bryant Park 10 a.m.-8 p.m.: Monica Byrne, Bryant Park Hotel 11 a.m.: Cynthia Steffe, The Plaza, Bryant Park Noon: Matthew Earnest, UPS Hub Noon: James Coviello, Street Regis Roof, Fifth Avenue Noon: Diesel, Hammerstein Ballroom, 311 West 34th Street Noon: Palmer Jones, Bryant Park Hotel Noon: Derek Green/Showroom 30, Altman Building, 135 West 18th Street

1 p.m: Oscar de la Renta, The OGRAPHER: MARIO SORRENTI Tent, Bryant Park T 2 p.m: Jill Stuart, Astor Hall, N.Y. Public Library 2 p.m.: Reem Acra, The Atelier, Bryant Park 3 p.m.: Betsey Johnson, The Plaza, Bryant Park 4 p.m.: Proenza Schouler, Milk Gallery, 450 West 15th Street 4 p.m.: Maverick Rebecca Romero, Skylight Ballroom, Puck Building, 295 Lafayette Street 5 p.m.: Alice Roi, The Atelier, Bryant Park 5 p.m.: Charles Nolan, 540 East 11th Street 5-7 p.m.: DKNY, 390 Park Avenue 6 p.m.: BCBG Max Azria, The Tent, Bryant Park 6 p.m.: McDonald’s Teens in Fashion, Pressure NYC, 110

University Place 212.485.1755 PHO WWW.STRENESSE.COM 6-9 p.m.: Tallulah Showroom, Spike Gallery, 547 West 20th Street 7 p.m.: Alvin Valley, W Hotel, Union Square, 201 Park Avenue 7 p.m.: Temperley London, The Plaza, Bryant Park 7 p.m.: Ellegirl & Wal-Mart Fashion Show with America’s Next Top Model, Times Square Studios, 1500 Broadway 7 p.m.: New York A La Mode, New Era Building, 495 Broadway, Fourth floor 7:30 p.m.: Stanley Adams, The Gershwin Hotel, 7 East 27th Street 40 WWD, SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2005

Marc Olympus Fashion Week, Jacobs Spring 2006 Show Schedule Continued from page 39 7 p.m.: Nanette Lepore, The Plaza, Bryant Park 8 p.m.: Narcisco Rodriguez, Exit Art, 475 10th Avenue 8 p.m.: Abby Z., Canal Room, 285 Broadway 9 p.m.: Chris Aire, Celeste Bartos Forum, NY Public Library 9 p.m.: Y-3, 55 Wall Street

WEDNESDAY, SEPT. 14 8:30 a.m.-10:30 a.m.: Kate/Jack Spade breakfast, 48 West 25th Street, Seventh floor 9 a.m.: Abaete, UPS Hub 9 a.m.-5 p.m.: Loyandford, Metropolitan Design Group, 80 West 40th Street 9:30-10:30 a.m.: David Chu, Design Studio, 30 West 24th Street 10 a.m.: Peter Som, The Plaza, Bryant Park 11 a.m.: Michael Kors, The Tent, Bryant Park

Noon: Richard Chai, The Atelier, Bryant Park 1 p.m.: Rebecca Taylor, Celeste ® Bartos Forum, N.Y. Public Library

TT CINQUE 2 p.m.: Carlos Miele, The Plaza, WA Bryant Park 2 p.m.: Thakoon, Bumble & bumble, 415 West 13th Street, Eighth floor 3 p.m.: A La Disposition, Altman Building, 135 West 18th Street 3 p.m.: Tevro & Chase by Paul Sinclair, Milk Studios, 450 West 15th Street tel. 1.212.921.0123 1.212.944.4700 - fax 3 p.m.: Carmen Marc Valvo, The Tent, Bryant Park 4 p.m.: Yeohlee, Helen Mills Theater, 135 West 26th Street 4 p.m: Jenni Kayne, 601 West 26th Street, 14th floor 4 p.m.: Red Toenails and Thea Grant, Salon, 505 West Street 5 p.m.: Malandrino, Pace Wildenstein, 534 West 25th Street Show-room Attila: 552,Avenue,York, NY 10018 Seventh 2nd Floor - New 5 p.m.-7 p.m.: Alfred Fiandaca, 150 West 36th, Fourth floor 6 p.m.: Milly, The Atelier, Bryant Park 6 p.m.: Zam Barrett Couture, 515 West 29th Street 6 p.m.: Alex Grant, Capsule Studio, 873 Broadway 6 p.m.: Cynthia Rowley, Elizabeth Street Garden 7 p.m.: Anna Sui, The Tent, Bryant Park 7 p.m.: Nathan Michlin, Boutique Oooh La La, 290 Fifth Avenue, Third floor 8 p.m.: Vivienne Tam, The Plaza, Bryant Park WWD, SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2005 41 WWD.COM

Derek Ziegfeld Theatre, 141 West 54th Street Noon: Boudicca, Bumble & bumble, Eighth floor, 415 West 13th Street Lam 6 p.m.: Kai Kuhne, Altman Building, 135 West 18th Street 1 p.m.: Libertine, The Plaza, Bryant Park 6 p.m.: Linda Loudermilk, The Atelier, Bryant Park 2 p.m.: Shelly Steffee, Altman Building, 135 West 18th Street 7 p.m.: Custo Barcelona, The Plaza, Bryant Park 2 p.m.: Lela Rose, The Atelier, Bryant Park 7 p.m.: VPL by Victoria Bartlett, Audi Showroom, 250 Park 3 p.m.: Donna Karan Collection, 711 Greenwich Street (47th Street) 4 p.m.: Kevin Johnn, Industria, 775 Washington Street 8 p.m.: Zac Posen, The Tent, Bryant Park 4 p.m.: Cristobal.Skot, Mess Studios, 224 West 30th Street 9 p.m.: B-Rude by Boy George, Altman Building, 135 West 18th 5 p.m.: Derek Lam, Milk Studios, 450 West 15th St, Second floor Street 6 p.m.: Heatherette, The Tent, Bryant Park 9 p.m.: Vlassis Holevas, The Atelier, Bryant Park 7 p.m.: Chado Ralph Rucci, The Plaza, Bryant Park 9 p.m.: Junko Yoshioka for bonaparte, West Side Loft, 336 West 8 p.m.: Gwen Stefani for L.A.M.B., Roseland, 239 West 52nd 37th Street Street 9 p.m.: Nico and Adrian, AER, 409 West 13th Street 10 p.m.: Heather Graham & Michelle Jonas, Lotus, 409 West 14th MONDAY, SEPT. 19 Street 1-3 p.m.: Rena Lange, Hudson Hotel (rooftop), 356 West 58th Street FRIDAY, SEPT. 16 4 p.m.: Alise Marie, Harry’s Loft, 29 East 19th Street 10 a.m-2 p.m.: Geoffrey Beene, 37 West 57th Street, 2nd floor 10 a.m & 11 a.m.: Ralph Lauren, The Annex, 545 West 22nd Street TUESDAY, SEPT. 20 11 a.m.-1p.m.: Michon Schur, 15 East 27th Street 9 a.m.-5 p.m.: Reebok, 609 Fifth Avenue Noon: Willow, UPS Hub 10 a.m.-5 p.m.: Myla, Myla Boutique, 20 East 69th Street

STYLES CHANGE.

FASHION FLOWS.

AND THE MILLS

MOVES FORWARD.

8:30 p.m.: Opera Swimwear, Bryant Park Hotel 8 p.m.: Jeremy Scott, Altman Building, 135 West 18th Street 9 p.m.: Badgley Mischka, 261 Eleventh Avenue

THURSDAY, SEPT. 15 9 a.m.: Black Horn, TBD 9 a.m.: Mary Ping, UPS Hub 10 a.m.-6 p.m.: Tory by TRB, 99 Madison Avenue, 12th floor 10 a.m.-7 p.m.: Patrick Cupid, 3 West 30th Street, Third floor 10 a.m.: Douglas Hannant, The Plaza, Bryant Park 11 a.m.: Christopher Deane, Splashlight Studios, 535 West 35th Street 11 a.m.: Morgane Le Fay, Altman Building, 135 West 18th Street 11 a.m.: Wunderkind, The Tent, Bryant Park 11 a.m.-8 p.m.: Angelo Lambrou, 96 East 7th Street Noon: PHI, 76 Ninth Avenue, 16th floor 1 p.m.: J. Mendel, The Plaza, Bryant Park MIAMI • LOS ANGELES • MADRID • NEW YORK 2 p.m.: Vera Wang, The Tent, ROME • CHICAGO • TORONTO • ATLANTA • SAN FRANCISCO Bryant Park 3 p.m.: Iisli, The Atelier, Bryant DALLAS • WASHINGTON, D.C. • GLASGOW Park PLUS RETAIL DESTINATIONS IN AN ADDITIONAL 21 MARKETS 4 p.m.: Afshin Feiz, Altman Building, 135 West 18th Street 4 p.m.: Nguyen, Puck Building, 250 Lafayette Street 5 p.m.: Calvin Klein, Milk Studios, 450 West 15th Street, 8th floor 6 p.m.: Trisha Biggar 7 03.526.5000 WWW.THEMILLS.COM NYSE:MLS (“Dressing a Galaxy: The Costumes of Star Wars”), Cheat Sheet Continued from page 20 opened her first store in London in 2001, followed by a New York boutique two years later. Her third post, in Los Angeles, is slated to bow in October. First time out? Temperley London’s first London Fashion Week show was for fall 2003, but this season marks its New York debut. “We decided to move our show because New York offers a great deal more exposure to international press and buyers,” says Temperley, 30. Any sales? Temperley London is available at more than 150 stores worldwide, including Bergdorf Goodman, Selfridges and Lane Crawford in Hong Kong. What to expect: Embellishment, new fabric treatments and bright prints, as well as an expanded range of day clothes. A look by Stanley Adams. “The theme of the show is ‘Midsummer Night,’” says Temperley. “Its influences range from Shakespeare’s works to Peruvian color schemes, which will be underlined by special lighting effects that will create an enchanted forest feel.”

STANLEY ADAMS Monday, Sept. 12, 7:30 p.m. Pedigree: After graduating from the Rhode Island Island School of Design in 2001, Stanley Adams, 26, began working on his line, which he launched for fall 2004. Today, he is based in New York. First time out? This is his third time showing during New York Fashion Week. Any sales? By appointment only. What to expect: About 12 items, done mostly in silk with beading and sequins. “My pieces are very sophisticated and elegant,” says Adams. “It’s the wardrobe of the Fifth Avenue lady.” TIBI Tuesday, Sept. 13, 9 a.m. Pedigree: Georgia native Amy Smilovic, 37, started Tibi in Tibi’s Amy 1998 while she was living in Hong Kong. Two years later, she Smilovic. moved her company, which is now best known for its playful GEORGE CHINSEE PHOTO BY WWD, SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2005 43 WWD.COM mix of feminine, colorful looks, to New York. Before she bridal and special-occasion label. His first Boutique Oooh designing for 20 years. He also began designing, Smilovic, who graduated from the La La collection (“I wanted a fun, girly name,” he says) dressed Petra Nemcova for University of Georgia with a degree in advertising and debuts this week. the Rock Fashion Awards in communications, worked in marketing and sales at First time out? Yes. London. American Express. Any sales? No. First time out? Yes. First time out? This is Tibi’s first fashion show. What to expect: About nine sportswear looks that Michlin Any sales? Neiman Marcus Any sales? The line is carried in 20 different countries at describes as “elegant, yet casual.” The collection of silk, carries the label’s dresses, more than 200 stores such as Neiman Marcus and Hong linen and cotton pieces is mostly in creams and whites, and Holevas has his own store Kong-based Lane Crawford. with red and green accents. in the tony Athens What to expect: Lots of prints and bold colors, as well as neighborhood of Kolonaki. more dresses than Tibi’s past seasons. “We are in love with BLACK HORN What to expect: The Kai Kuhne long dresses that are worn for day, and little mini dresses,” Thursday, Sept. 15, by appointment collection of about 60 looks is of Myself by says Smilovic. “Everything is one extreme or the other — Pedigree: Francisco Chaydez, 30, used to be one half of the in a palette of black and Kai Kuhne. full sleeves or no sleeves at all.” design team behind Sandoval. He split amicably with white, and features his designer Michael Carbaugh, who is still showing under the signature medium of beaded and hand-painted fabrics. JENNI KAYNE Sandoval name, and is now going at it alone. Chaydez, a Wednesday, Sept. 14, 4 p.m. San Francisco native, says his forte is tailoring pieces to MICHON SCHUR Pedigree: Jenni Kayne, who turns 23 on the day of her show, “maddening perfection.” Friday, Sept. 16, 11 a.m. to 1 p.m. has been creating buzz at Los Angeles Fashion Week since First time out? Ye s. Pedigree: Designer Stephanie Schur, 28, launched her she first appeared there with her fall 2003 Any sales? No. vintage-inspired collection for spring 2004, and it quickly collection. “Coming to New York is the next What to expect: A small collection, almost entirely in black became a hit with Los Angeles stylists such as Christina step in my business,” says Kayne. and white, of sharp jackets and vests, wide-legged pants Ehrlich, and such stars as Penelope Cruz and Rosario First time out? This is her first New York and unusual skirts. Dawson. show. First time out? Yes. Any sales? Nordstrom, Neiman Marcus and MYSELF BY KAI KUHNE Any sales? Yes, at Fred Segal where she once worked the small boutiques across the country. Thursday, Sept. 15, 6 p.m. sales floor. What to expect: Fifteen to 20 looks Pedigree: KaiKuhne quite famously (or infamously, What to expect: About 18 looks in sorbet colors, with a inspired by the Sixties and Seventies depending on your point of view) subtracted himself touch of Twenties inspiration. There may be a couple of beach-club culture, photographed by from the kooky downtown quartet As Four last season. red carpet dresses as well, but Schur says she is focusing Slim Aarons. Kayne’s past shows had First time out? Ye s. more on day wear. the likes of Dustin Hoffman, Owen Any sales? Not yet, but Kuhne says that retailers Wilson and Robert Downey Jr. in the have requested appointments. front row. But Kayne says that this What to expect: Kuhne will show 24 looks that time, “It won’t be like L.A.” dispense with the conceptual work he did with As Four. “I’m focusing on classic garments with classic BOUTIQUE OOOH LA LA construction — sailor pants, men’s tuxedo shirts,” he Wednesday, Sept. 14, 7 p.m. says. “It has an old-world feel, but it’s really modern.” Pedigree: Originally from Wilmington, Del., Nathan Michlin, 29, graduated VLASSIS HOLEVAS from Philadelphia University with a Black Thursday, Sept. 15, 9 p.m. degree in fashion design. He then moved Horn’s Pedigree: Athens-based eveningwear and bridal to New York, where he became an Francisco designer Vlassis Holevas, 37, who calls himself the Michon Schur’s assistant designer at Alfred Angelo, a Chaydez. “Robert Cavalli of Greece,” says that he’s been Stephanie Schur. iluxe - Ph. 212.625.8600 www.allegri.com Tr

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