A GUIDE TO THE GERMINATION AND CULTIVATION OF Victoria Waterlilies

from the Victoria Conservancy, courtesy of IWGS Photos by Nancy and Trey Styler, unless noted otherwise

The first-night flower of Victoria ‘Longwood Hybrid’

“Creating backyard havens.” 31 New York, as well as Patrick Nutt and Tim the cruziana, and V. ‘Adventure’ more like its Jennings from Longwood Gardens of mother, the amazonica. However, for purposes Pennsylvania, Stan Skinger of Colorado, Rich of germination and cultivation, we treat all vari- Sacher of New Orleans, and Joe Summers of eties in the same manner, except where noted. Missouri Botanical Gardens. In addition, it The two Victoria species, V. amazonica and V. cruziana, seen here in their native habitats. Photos by Butch Weaver has been influenced by the experiences of many Victoria growers around the world who THE STORAGE THE VICTORIA have shared their knowledge with us, person- ally and via the Internet. OF SEEDS CONSERVANCY INTRODUCTION We address here the needs of the two species When fresh from the pod, Victoria seeds are The Victoria Conservancy is a group of This is a long-overdue revision of our original of Victoria, V. amazonica and V. c r uziana, as covered with a loose membrane called the aril. Victoria growers and enthusiasts, operating as a germination guide, written in 1997. We have well as the two major hybrids V. ‘Longwood In the wild, this gives the seed temporary buoy- committee of the International Waterlily and learned quite a lot in the meantime, and there is Hybrid’ (V. c r uziana™ x V. amazonica) and V. ancy and allows it to float away from the moth- Water Gardening Society and dedicated to the much yet to learn. The advice we proffer in this ‘Adventure’ (V. amazonica™ x V. c r uziana). er plant. This material and its gelatinous con- conservation of the giant waterlilies of the genus guide represents the combined observations Although all four types are similar in many tents must be removed prior to storage, as they Victoria. The Victoria Conservancy exists to and opinions of several Victoria growers, but it respects, there are some differences, both phys- will decompose and foul the storage water. develop, acquire, and propagate knowledge is just that – advice. We don’t all do things the ical and horticultural. For example, a mature V. about Victoria and its horticulture, to preserve same way, and we will try to point out the dif- cruziana typically tolerates cooler temperatures Victoria in all its variations, and to encourage ferences. Also, few of us do things the same way better, whereas V. amazonica requires warmer the display of Victoria in order to interest and now as we did a few years ago, and none of us water to flourish. The hybrids are intermediate, educate the public. know how we will do things a few years from with V. ‘Longwood Hybrid’ somewhat more like now. Consequently, this advice should be taken only as suggestions based on our knowledge to date, which is far from complete. This guide was writ- Victoria seeds come in many sizes and colors. ten by Nancy and Trey Styler of Colorado, with assistance and Victoria seeds must be kept input from members of moist at all times. For long-term the Victoria storage, keep the seeds in water, Conservancy, notably in the dark, at a constant tem- Kit Knotts of Florida, perature. We used to recom- Diana Anderson of mend storage of all seed types at Colorado, and Matt 50-60 °F (10-16 °C), but recent The underside of the Victoria pad shows its supporting structure, and its thorns. Johnson of upstate The Victoria seedpod ruptures and releases seeds covered with aril. studies suggest that while V.

32 Pond & Garden “Creating backyard havens.” 33 and may increase the overall germination rate in One type of some Victoria seed types, such as V. amazonica seed preparation and V. ‘Adventure’. However, it is also possible is called “nick- to damage the embryo in the nicking process. ing” the seed. To Even in experienced hands, 10-20% of nicked “nick” a seed, seed thought to be undamaged showed locate the oper- deformed embryos or leaves. culum — the small, roughly The different techniques of nicking, scarify- circular area on ing, or chemical treatment may act by weaken- the seed where it ing the operculum, thus promoting germination. was attached to Scarifying other parts of the seed coat is not the pod. The effective and may promote rotting of the seed. operculum is the The operculum, or apical cap “door” through Victoria seedlings are susceptible to over- The emerging embryo has pushed open the operculum cruziana tolerates this range, these tempera- which the devel- growth by algae and/or fungi. Equipment used tures are too cold for seeds of V. amazonica and these are recommended, minimum tempera- oping embryo to germinate and grow Victoria (tanks, pots, result in poor germination. We now recommend tures, some growers report success in much emerges. Use a etc.) should be washed and disinfected with storing V. amazonica seed at 70-75 °F (21-24 °C) cooler water. In southern areas of the USA, sharply pointed bleach or an equivalent. Some growers, includ- and storing the seed of V. c r uziana at 60-65 °F plants may be set out as soon as April or May. knife blade, such ing Longwood Gardens, also dip their seeds in (16-18 °C). The seeds of the hybrids may with- At Longwood Gardens, near Philadelphia, as a craft knife or a dilute bleach solution (1:10 dilution of stand cooler storage than the V. amazonica, but Pennsylvania, the Victoria pond water is heated a scalpel blade, to household bleach) for three minutes prior to their tolerance is not known with certainty. to 82 °F (28° C) to allow setting out Victoria dur- gently lift the sowing. This does not appear to improve ger- Warmer temperatures are better for seed viabil- ing the first week in June. Therefore, Longwood operculum and mination rates, but it may improve the survival ity but at a risk of some premature germination sows their seeds in late February or early expose the rate of seedlings. in storage. March. Adjust your sowing dates according to embryo beneath. your local conditions. Start “nicked” Setup for Seed Germination seeds immediate- Seeds can be germinated in several differ- GERMINATING SEEDS Seed Preparation ly, as they seem ent ways: in water without soil, or in sand or When to Sow Victoria has a thick, dense, seed coat and can more susceptible soil which is then covered with water. Most of The correct time to sow seeds depends on be difficult to germinate. There have been many to rotting after us have adopted the method of germinating your local climate. The entire cycle, from sow- different techniques used to germinate Victoria “nicking”, disal- the seeds in water, without soil, and planting ing to having plants ready to set outdoors, usu- seeds since Paxton first accomplished this in lowing storage. Frames A-E show the process of up only the seedlings that germinate. This ally takes 3 to 4 months. Usually, the critical 1849, and each has its own proponents and removing the operculum (“nicking allows for direct observation of the seed and the seed”.) variable is when outdoor ponds will be ready to reports of success. Some growers have reported Most varieties keeps the water cleaner. However, many, accept Victoria with stable water temperatures increased germination after scarifying or abrad- of Victoria seem to germinate adequately with- including Longwood Gardens, prefer to plant above 70-72 °F (21-22 °C) for V. c r uziana and ing the seed coat or after treating the seeds with out “nicking”. Our studies indicate that this the seeds in small pots of pasteurized (heat- 78-82 °F (26-28° C) for V. amazonica. While a weak (1:10) bleach solution. technique may speed up germination of seeds treated) soil, which are then placed into a

34 Pond & Garden “Creating backyard havens.” 35 of buffering capacity. While many grow- ers use tap water, many others use established tanks or ponds containing other plants. Growing seedlings in an This series shows the development of the filiform leaf. ecologically balanced environment may help protect against overgrowth of into the aquarium with at least 2-4 inches (5-10 genetic variability. While the physical appear- harmful algae or bacteria. cm) of water over the top of the pot. ance of the seeds can also vary widely, we have Penetrating too deeply can damage the embryo. If tap water is used, or added, it is If sowing more than one type of Victoria not been able to predict fertility from appear- essential to treat for chlorine and/or seed, keep them separate. We place the ance. Although some seed lots have shown very tank of water to germinate. Both methods chloramine that may have been added to seeds into labeled, small, plastic bags full of low fertility, the Conservancy makes every have been used with success. your water supply, as well as heavy metals water, with or without small holes, and then attempt to not distribute seeds with less than A glass aquarium of 10-gallon (40-liter) such as copper, as these may be toxic to into the aquarium. 50% germination in our annual studies. Some capacity is ideal for germination and early Victoria. Various water treatments are com- Victoria seed lots have yielded up to 100% ger- seedling growth. (Any similar, watertight con- mercially available to do this. Be sure your mination in these studies, and we distribute the tainer will do, but if the sides are opaque, water treatment also neutralizes the heavy TIMING most fertile first. This helps offset any possible arrange for adequate lighting.) A submersible, metals, as not all do. The length of time to germination is quite ill effect on the seeds from extremes encoun- thermostatically controlled aquarium heater Place the seeds into water that is maintained variable. The “average” time to germination in tered during shipping. may be needed for heat. In some circumstances, at 85-90 F (28-32 C). Although some germina- our recent study was 13.7 days, with a tendency a method to prevent overheating during the day tion can occur at lower temperatures, we have of the species plants to germinate slightly later The Victoria Seedling may be necessary. Supplemental lighting will be found germination and early development to be than the hybrids. Often, we have seen seeds ger- The first sign of germination is an open required if the plants are not in direct or dif- improved at the higher temperatures for all four minate in as little as three days and in as much area appearing at one end of the seed (the fused sunlight at least 6-8 hours per day. An air- types. If germinating in pots of soil, place them as 35 days. We have even had seeds germinate open operculum), where a small, white bulge stone is often used to as late as 90 days after being placed in the of firm tissue can be seen. This is the develop- aerate and circulate the aquarium, but this usually represents a “second ing embryo. water in the aquarium. wave” of germination in that lot. Not all seeds germinate the first time Many questions have they are planted. Many been raised about what seeds, if held over to the fol- type of water is best. For lowing year, at normal stor- the seeds, during stor- age temperatures, will age and prior to germi- sprout the next year. (This is nation, it does not seem probably a survival mecha- to be critical, but it may nism in the wild.) be more important for Germination rates vary the growing seedlings. considerably due to seed Sterile or distilled water ripeness at harvest, storage is not necessary and may conditions, germination be a problem due to lack Bags containing test lots of seeds in aquarium for germination. techniques, and inherent Seedling planted into 1-oz. Cup, then covered with soil and pea gravel.

36 Pond & Garden “Creating backyard havens.” 37 They are elongated, although sub- sequent leaves become rounder. V. amazonica retains a somewhat elongated shape while V. c r uziana and the hybrids are more circular. Even at this point, small thorns are noticeable on the stems (petioles) and undersides of the pads. By the third or forth pad, the underside of the leaf of V. c r uziana is blue to Seedling nursery showing filiform and hastate leaves. bluish-purple (like concord grape The first leaf is long, narrow, light green and juice), whereas V. amazonica is quite red (like grass-like and is called the filiform leaf. It is fol- cranberry juice), and the hybrids’ are in the lowed by two leaves that are shaped like elon- middle of that range. gated arrowheads, the hastate leaves. The next Root development begins shortly after the leaves to follow grow to the surface of the water. first leaf appears, and it is usually quite evident

A mixture of plants creates a more stable ecology.

38 Pond & Garden “Creating backyard havens.” 39 Repotting a Seedling

into ecologically balanced above. While more mature plants can be potted larger tanks or pools. The in soil enriched with compost, manure, or fertil- young seedlings need a izer, the soil used for germination needs no depth of 2-4 inches (5-10 additional fertilizer since the seeds provide their cm) above the soil surface, own nutrients. Besides feeding algae, excess fer- although as they grow, tilizer has been implicated in the loss of young The seedling and its they will need deeper rootball. seedlings. Fertilizer should be added only once water. Some growers use a the plants have reached the floating-leaf stage. nearly full aquarium or Subsequent feeding of young plants should be tank and raise the handled with caution. younger seedlings on sup- ports at first, lowering A Note About Seedlings them as the petioles or This stage of Victoria development, from the The first floating leaf reaches for the surface. Photo by Povy Kendal Atchison stems lengthen. first floating leaf to the 3rd or 4th pad, is often by the time the hastate leaves develop. Once 1 considered the most difficult. Many growers The cup with /2 fertilizer tab. roots are present, the seedling is ready to be Victoria, like most aquatic plants, needs a soil have high rates of seedling loss. Sometimes an potted into soil. Carefully isolate the seedling that is fairly heavy and stable underwater, with overgrowth of algae in the tank is thought to and its roots, still attached to the seed, and gen- little or no lightweight organic material that will suffocate new leaves. Sometimes the seedlings tly push it into the wet soil so that the roots are float up out of the pot. The seedlings, especial- just “melt away” for no apparent reason, covered and the seed is at the soil surface, with ly, need a very bland medium, with no added although too much fertilizer is a possible cause. leaves exposed. To prevent the seedling from fertilizers. People have reported success with It is not necessarily “your fault”! detaching and floating free, some growers use clay-based soils, washed beach sand, and mixes small pins or wires to hold the seedling in of topsoil and sand. place. A thin layer of pea gravel over the soil Many growers feel that the soil used for ger- BEYOND can help to stabilize the plant and reduce ero- mination or planting seedlings should be pas- Repotting the seedling. sion of the soil. We start with very small, clear teurized to destroy harmful organisms without THE SEEDLING plastic cups (1 or 2 oz.) so that we can monitor killing all of the beneficial organisms in the soil As the young Victoria grows, new leaves and root development. prior to use. This can be done with steam or dry roots will develop. It is very important to keep heat, such as an oven, heating the soil to a tem- the plants growing steadily and not allow the These cups are placed in 82-85 °F (26-28 °C) perature of about 140° F (60 °C) for 20-30 min- Victoria seedlings to become pot-bound. Be water and in good light conditions. A green- utes. These numbers come from a joint study by sure to note the degree of root development house with diffused natural light would be ideal, Longwood Gardens and Pennsylvania State and leaf size; every new leaf should grow larg- but most growers have to use a combination of University. This technique, now widely used, er than the one before. Consider that each new light from a bright window and supplemental reduces the chance of pathogens attacking the leaf puts out many new roots from the base of artificial light, such as florescent or metal-halide seedlings and causing “damping off”. its stem. The roots from existing stems contin- grow lights. The seedlings can be returned to the For germination, Longwood Gardens uses a ue to grow as long as their leaves are healthy. aquarium to grow, but some growers have soil mix that consists of about 20% clay, 40% This means that the roots from a new leaf must reported better results by placing the seedlings sand, and 40% silt, which is steam-treated as have room to become established for the plant

40 Pond & Garden “Creating backyard havens.” 41 clear which is better, it is possible to go too far a depression in the soil of the next pot. We then ‘Longwood Hybrid’. These varieties tend to be too fast. As the plant grows, it begins to need slide the liner out from under the rootball, cover darker and have strong overtones of red. supplemental fertilizer, but this should be intro- with soil and pea gravel, and the deed is done duced slowly, in increasing amounts corre- without touching the plant or being stabbed by As the plant grows, it needs deeper water, at sponding to pot and plant size increases. its thorns. When moving larger plants, be sure least 8-12 inches (20-30 cm) above the pot. It Moving to a large pot with higher fertilizer lev- to support the pads as well. also seems to need increased light. Although it els may burn or damage the young plants. has been shown that Victoria can be grown and The young plants are fairly easy to handle In young plants, new leaves develop slowly, flowered in small containers under only artifi- and to transplant. They are small, and the requiring a week or more for each pad. In larg- cial light, we have found that, when possible, the thorns are not too bothersome. As they grow er plants, new leaves come to the surface every young plants seem do better with natural sun- larger (and more dangerous), special techniques two to four days, usually emerging still curled light. As with other plants, beware of burning are sometimes needed. When we move the and puckered, then open up and expand on the tender leaves with sudden exposure to strong to grow well. Roots appearing above the soil plants into larger containers, we use shallow surface. Larger pads will continue to expand for sunlight. line are a sign that the plant is ready to go into pots with rounded bottoms, which we line with several days to a week or more. Once the plant gets through the vulnerable a larger pot. scraps of liner or heavy plastic. Then, when it is The number of leaves on a plant is a good seedling stage, its growth can become very time to move them again, we grasp the liner, lift indicator of its health. Young plants should be rapid. Bigger pots and bigger leaves require big- When roots are visible in the seedling cup, we the plant out in its liner hammock and set it into able to carry 3 to 4 leaves at a time. Leaf color ger tanks, but in most climates the plant still usually move next to a 9- is another indication of health and vigor. Pallor needs protection and supplemental heat. We oz. plastic cup, which of the leaves may indicate inadequate fertiliza- keep the water at 80-85° F (26-29 °C) for this allows us to see the devel- tion. There is a lot of variation in leaf color. The stage and only reduce the temperature (to accli- oping roots easily. After upper surface of V. cruziana pads tends to be a matize the plant to lower water temperatures) that, we use standard pots, lighter green than V. amazonica or V. for a few days before the final transplant. lined with newspaper or coffee filters to keep the soil inside. Shallow pots are adequate, as root development is mostly out, not down.

Typical steps in pot sizes are 4” to 8” to 14” (10, 20, 35 cm), although some growers prefer to take smaller steps more often, and some favor even fewer transplants and, therefore, larger steps. Although it is not The 3rd and 4th leaves are rounder and starting to look like Victoria pads. A scrap of liner material under the soil will help with the next move.

42 Pond & Garden “Creating backyard havens.” 43 watering tanks (plastic or galvanized) has been used. Some growers keep their young plants in insulated, heated, and covered ponds. Others use heated tanks in greenhouses. Most have to improvise. Moving Out to the Pond Although some climates permit Moving Victoria into its final growing container requires care and special techniques. New leaves uncurl and spread after they reach the surface of the water. growers to germinate and raise seedlings in the same pond they will ultimately grow (as in the wild), most of us have cruziana and V. ‘Longwood Hybrid’ can tolerate subject of much debate. Display plants are often After the plants are in 4” or larger pots, pro- to start indoors and move to the outdoor pond cooler water temperatures than V. amazonica, grown in very large pots of soil, ranging from vide enough room for the leaves to spread out. only when the weather permits. but even they seem to be set back if moved into 36” diameter by 12” deep to as large as 60” x Almost any watertight container can be used for The plants should not be set out until the cool water at this stage. We now feel that V. 18”. While it was once thought that these large the plants as they grow. Everything from stor- spring weather has settled and adequate water cruziana prefers water temperatures of at least sizes were essential, it has been shown that age containers to plastic wading pools to stock temperatures are certain. It is true that V. 75-80°F (24-27°C), and that V. amazonica Victoria can grow successfully and flower in pots prefers water of 85-90°F (28-32°C). However, of less than 12” diameter! Of course, you are mature plants may continue to grow, and even less likely to get the very large pads from the flower, in water 5-10°F (3-5°C) cooler. The smaller pots. It seems that larger containers hybrids V. ‘Adventure’ and V. ‘Longwood favor larger leaves, and smaller containers may Hybrid’ seem to tolerate cooler water, like the encourage flowering. V. cruziana, but keep in mind, all Victoria are This can be a tricky transplant, especially if tropical lilies and appear to do better in warmer the plant has big pads, or if you are using one of water than cooler. the larger containers. For us, this is a two-per- To reduce shock to the plants, allow the son job: one person lifts the current pot from water temperature in the controlled environ- the tank while the other person, wearing gloves, ment to approach that into which the young arranges the pads on top of the plant and each plants will be moved. Although the mature other by gently curling their stems. With the Victoria enjoys sunlight, as with any tender plant set on a plywood platform to gain a safe plant, Victoria leaves are subject to sunburn if distance from the thorns, we carry the plant to quickly moved from a protected location into the side of the pond where the next container full sun. awaits. The young plants can be moved to an out- We have already prepared the next pot by door pond at leaf sizes ranging from 8” or 10” filling it with our heavy soil (enhanced with up to twice that size. Typically, they will be in generous amounts of fertilizer), leaving a hole 10-14” (25-30 cm) pots at this time and be ready in the center the size of the rootball. Since these to repot into their ultimate containers. larger pots can be quite heavy even when filled Even a five-foot tank can quickly become overcrowded. The proper pot size for mature Victoria is a with dry soil, we fill them right at the side of the

44 Pond & Garden “Creating backyard havens.” 45 pond. Some people, who use hole-less contain- Victoria can grow in very shallow water, and ers, float and fill the containers right in the sometimes it can be found growing in very deep water. We also have pea gravel readily accessi- water, but in cultivation it seems to prefer a ble to cover the soil. The idea is to minimize the water depth of 12-24” (30-60 cm) over the amount of time that the plant is out of the crown of the plant. When moving it into deeper water, and its pads are dry. If you are delayed in water, try not to submerge all the pads. the process, be sure to moisten the plant and Although they will grow to the surface, their pads frequently, or cover them with wet news- buoyancy may pull the plant out of the pot first! paper or burlap. Some growers avert this by supporting the pot on blocks at first and then lowering the pot to We then remove the plant from the old pot by the bottom later in the season. lifting the liner hammock and place the rootball and liner into the prepared hole. We slide the Maintenance liner out from underneath, cover the roots with The mature Victoria plant is a very heavy soil, and then with gravel or rock to reduce the feeder and will require a great deal of supple- soil’s erosion into the water, and slide the pot mental fertilizer, especially during the peak of over the side of the pond and into the water. the season. We add a balanced fertilizer to the With the soil kept dry up to this point, even a soil at the time of repotting and then supple- Nancy uses the natural buoyancy of the pads to help her hold things as she removes older pads and flowers from Victoria. full pot floats, although low in the water, allow- ment by adding aquatic fertilizer tablets weekly. ing its movement along the surface to the For example, we give a mature plant in a 36” x use an “on-demand” feeding system that is The first flower on each plant is frequently desired position. By lowering one edge of the 12” pot twelve tablets per week, pushed into the based on the progression of pad size or on pad abnormal in some respect, opening underwater container, water is allowed to enter slowly, and dirt around the outside of the pot like the hour color. A yellowish pallor of the leaves may indi- or opening only partially or misshapen in some we gradually lower the pot to its resting place markers of a clock. Some growers, concerned cate over-fertilization. However, it should be manner. Don’t worry. Subsequent flowers will about excess fertilizer, especially in sandy soils, understood that the “best technique”, or exact- be more normal. Typically, once flowering ly how much of what kind of fertilizers, is not begins, you will see a new flower every few days, known, and a wide variety of methods are used. alternating with new leaves in a ratio of one to Aside from fertilizing, Victoria needs very lit- three leaves for each flower. You may notice tle maintenance. Once a week or so, since each that new leaves and flowers emerge in a circular, pad seems to last about three weeks from emer- spiraling pattern, some progressing clockwise gence to removal, we remove older, deteriorat- and some counter-clockwise. We don’t know ing pads and their stems. If you are not trying to why, but it is one more fascinating thing about produce seeds, remove spent flowers and their this plant! Growth will continue as long as good stems, as well. conditions persist, but for most of us, fall and winter come all too soon. Pad size will usually continue to increase with each new pad until maturity, around 4-5 months after germination. Once the plant begins to Denver Botanic Garden interns help move a large Victoria. flower, pad size usually decreases somewhat.

46 Pond & Garden “Creating backyard havens.” 47 ture the pads or burn them with heat. In fact, off” their Victoria from the turtles, with mixed any debris or foreign material that sits on the results. Crawfish can be a similar problem in pad for even a few hours can blemish or discol- some areas, especially for younger plants. or the pad. Most fish are compatible with Victoria, including goldfish and gambusia, but some own- A LAST REQUEST ers of prized Koi rightly worry about damage to The Victoria Conservancy is dedicated to the the fish from the thorns. In at least one case, a preservation and scientific study of Victoria in Koi was stranded after it jumped up onto a pad all its forms. We are still learning, from our own and couldn’t get off. experience and from yours. Please share your Conversely, Victoria seedlings can easily be results, techniques and insights with us — the uprooted or eaten by fish and should be pro- more information we can get, the better!❧ tected until mature. Turtles, however, can be deadly even to mature plants, as their tough © Victoria Conservancy, 2001 mouths can eat the thorny plant without any V. ‘Longwood Hybrid’ showing leaves and flower buds (under problem. Some growers have tried to “fence the water) at different stages of development. PREDATORS AND PROBLEMS One advantage of growing a plant outside of its native habitat is that you leave behind some Victoria with an emerging pad in the sunset. or all of its predators. Victoria pads in the wild are often torn and perforated by wind, native necessary, as the insects can be manually animals, and insects, but in our alien and/artifi- removed. Also, there are reports of Victoria cial environments, this happens less often. On pads being infected by the tobacco mosaic virus, the other hand, Victoria has no resistance to our brought in on tobacco by smoking and especial- local pests, although size and thorns offer some ly chewing tobacco, as has been well established general protection. Aphids can frequently infest in other plants. the pads, but they can be washed off. Snails can Victoria does seem to be sensitive to chemi- be a problem for small plants but not usually for cals, such as salt, heavy metals, or treatments the larger ones. Some other aquatic insects can used for algae or fish diseases. Copper sulfate occasionally cause significant damage to a pad, has been known to badly burn Victoria pads, but this is usually seasonal and self-limiting. and even metallic copper, (as in pipes or heat This includes infestations of midges or the lar- exchangers) has been questioned. However, vae of the China Mark Moth. Treatment with copper is most often damaging in the form of chemicals should be avoided unless absolutely pennies thrown onto the pads, where they punc- The Victoria at Missouri Botanic Garden make an awe-inspiring display. Photo by Joe Tomocik

48 Pond & Garden “Creating backyard havens.” 49