Photographs, drawings and patterns taken from original objects Photographs Drawings Patterns + indicates burial clothes 21. c.1640. Pleated linen ruff with two layers. 29 80 Photographs Drawings Patterns Victoria and Albert Museum, London T.287-1916. SHIRTS 22. c.1620-30. Full linen ruffwith deep neckband. 30 81 1. c.1535-50. Boy's linen shirt embroidered in blue silk. 17 65 Germanisches Nationalmuseum, Nurnberg T 833. Victoria and Albert Museum, London T.112-19 72. 23. c.1620-30. Full ruff of very fine linen, similar to No. 22. 30 82 83 2. c.1550-60. Boy's linen shirt embroidered in purple silk and silver-gilt thread. 17 65 Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam NM 13112. Bayerisches Nationalmuseum, Munich T 4104. 24. c.1620-40. Wide linen ruff, with traces of the original blue starch. 31 84 85 3. c.1560-80. Boy's linen shirt embroidered with flowers in crimson silk and 18 66 Bayerisches Nationalmuseum, Munich T 4413. silver-gilt thread. I tali an. Museo del Tessuto, Prato 76-01-05. Supporters, Underproppers, Pickadils and Rebatos 4. c.1550-80. Boy's linen shirt embroidered with motifs of acorns in crimson silk. 18 66 25. c.1590-1610. Woman's blue linen supporter, with whalebones. 32 86 Italian. Museo del Tessuto, Prato 76-01-06. Victoria and Albert Museum, London T. 62-191 O.

5. c.1560-80. Boy's linen shirt with tapered sleeves, embroidered with 'S' motifs 19 67 26. c.1610-20. Pasteboard pickadil, covered in ivory silk satin. 32 86 in crimson silk. Italian. Museo del Tessuto, Prato 76-01-07. Victoria and Albert Museum, London T.32-1938.

6. c.1560-80. Boy's linen shirt embroidered with sprigs in crimson silk. Italian. 19 67 27. c.1610-20.Woman's open pasteboard pickadil, covered in ivory silk satin. 33 87 86 Museo del Tessuto, Prato 76-01-08. English. Victoria and Albert Museum, London T.192-1900.

7. +1567. Man's high neckband with ruffle, from a badly damaged linen shirt. 20 68 67 28. c.1615-20. Half a man's ivory silk satin doublet with an integrated pickadil. 34 89 90 Swedish. Upsala Cathedra! Museum. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York 23.30.3.

8. + 1567. Man's linen shirt with embroidered neck and wrist ruffles. Swedish. 21 68 69 29. c.1610-20. Rebato decorated with lines of bobbin lace. 34 91 92 Upsala Cathedral Museum. Germanisches Nationalmuseum, Niirnberg T 2062.

9. c.1585-1620. Man's linen shirt embroidered in pink/red silk. English. 22 69 30. c.1610-20. Rebato with cotton cover, edged in silver-gilt lace. 35 92 Warwickshire Museum Service 37.1962. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York 30.135.156.

10. c.1585-1620. Man's linen shirt embroidered in black silk. English. 22 70 71 31. c.1610-20. Woman's rebato with pleated gauze. 36 92 Fashion Museum, Bath BATMC II.02.147 (loan) Musee de Cluny, Paris 1886.

11. c.1600-1630. Man's heavy linen shirt, embroidered in blue linen thread. Italian. 23 71 32. c.1620-35. Rebato with embroidered silk and matching cuffs. 36 93 Museo del Tessuto, Prato 76-01-19. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York 30.135.158. , 12. c.1580-1600. Man's linen shirt with falling band, embroidered in polychrome 24 72 33. c.1615-25. Rebato with embroidered silk. 37 94 93 silk and metal threads. English. Museum of London 28.84. Bayerisches Nationalmuseum, Munich T 4066.

13. c.1580-1600. Man's linen shirt with falling band, edged in metal lace. ltalian. 24 72 34. c.1625-30. Woman's rebato, with wired silk decorations. 38 94 95 The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York TSR 10.142.2. Musee de Cluny, Paris 6589.

14. 1627. Man's linen shirt trimmed in bobbin lace. Swedish. 25 73 74 35. c.1625-30. Woman's open rebato of imitation lace. 38 95 Livrustkammaren, Stockholm 3380. Musee des Arts Decoratifs, Paris.

15. + 1659. Man's plain linen shirt, with gathered sleeves. Swedish. 26 75 74 Bands, Pinners and Tuckers Livrustkammaren, Stockholm 5793.1. 36. c.1610-20. Fine linen cutwork standing band, with bandstrings and tassels. 39 96 The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York 30.135.147. NECKWEAR 37. c.1630. Fine linen band, edged with bobbin lace. Swedish. 40 97 96 Ruffs Livrustkammaren, Stockholm 32/72 (20769). 16. c.1580-1600. Linen ruff prepared for starching. 27 76 Bayerisches Nationalmuseum, Munich T 4753. 38. c.1625-35. Woman's pinner in linen and bobbin lace, for a square-necked gown. 40 96 English. Gallery of Costume, Platt Hall, Manchester City Galleries 2003. 91. 17. c.1590-1640. Starched linen ruff, with wax holding the sets. 27 77 76 Bayerisches Nationalmuseum, Munich T 6616. 39. c.1635. Man's cloak band in linen cutwork. English. 41 98 99 The Blackborne Collection, The Bowes Museum, Barnard Castle. 18. c.1580-1600. Bleached white linen ruff. 28 79 Germanisches Nationalmuseum, Niirnberg T 2060. 40. c.1640-45. Man's falling band in fine white linen, edged with bobbin lace. 42 98 99 Colonial Williamsburg Foundation, Virginia 56.144. 19. c.1620. Linen ruff with three layers, edged in bobbin lace. 28 78 79 Livrustkammaren, Stockholm 33076. 41. c.1660-65. Man's falling band, with needlelace, bandstrings, and tassels. 42 99 The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York 30.135.152. 20. c.1620-35. Shaped linen ruff with four layers, bandstrings and tassels. 29 80 Gallery of Costume, Platt Hall, Manchester City Galleries 2003.86. 42. c.1620-30.Circular standing band in white linen. 43 100 Bayerisches Nationalmuseum, Munich T 4634.

3 Photographs Drawings Pattem Photographs Drawings Pattern

43. c.1630-40. Woman's linen partlet with attached darted band. English. 43 101 100 64. c. 1600. Linen drawers embroidered in silver and silver-gilt thread. Italian. 50 106 Gallery of Costume, Platt Hall, Manchester City Galleries 2003.89. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York TSR 10.124.4.

44. c.1640- 50. Child's bib and matching tucker in fine white linen. English. 44 100 65. c.1630. Linen breeches embroidered in blue linen thread. Italian. 51 106 Gallery of Costume, Platt Hall, Manchester City Galleries 2003.94/2. Museo del Tessu to, Prato 76-01 -20.

45. c.1640-55. Woman's plain tucker and matching cuffs, in fine wh ite linen. English. 44 100 66. c.1600. Pair of linen footless boothose, embroidered with polychrome silks. 52 107 Gallery of Costume, Platt Hall, Manchester City Galleries 2003.96/3. Italian. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York TSR 10.124.5&6.

46. c. 1640-50. Woman's linen neckerchief with a scalloped border. English . 45 102 67. c.1630-40. Pair of embroidered linen boothose tops. 52 108 107 Gallery of Costume, Platt Hall, Manchester City Galleries 2003.98/3. Germanisches Nationalmuseum, Nurnberg T898.

47. c.1640-50. Woman's linen tucker and matching cuffs, with scalloped edges. 45 102 68. c.1640-50. Pair of linen boothose edged with linen fringe. English. 53 108 109 English. Gallery of Costume, Platt Hall, Manchester City Galleries 2003.99/3. ikrney Collection, Claydon House (National Trust), near Aylesbury.

HEAD WEAR 69. c.1640- 50. Pair of linen boothose, probably to be worn with separate tops. 53 108 109 English. ikrney Collection, Claydon House (National Trust), near Aylesbury. 48. c.1590- 1600. Woman's linen coif embroidered with salamanders, birds and fruit. 46 103 National Museums of Scotland, Edinburgh 1965-722. 70. c. 1600. Linen purse embroidered with a pelican motif, in silver and 53 109 silver-gilt threads. National Museums of Scotland, Edinburgh 1963.500. 49. c.1610-15. Woman's embroidered linen cutwork coif, with lace and spangles. 46 103 Burrell Collection, Glasgow 29/ 130 (emb 122). SMOCKS

50. c.1610- 20. Woman's linen coif embroidered with black silk and silver-gilt 46 103 71. c.1575- 1600. Woman's linen smock with full sleeves, embroidered in pink silk. 54 110 111 spangles. Burrell Collection, Glasgow 29/131(emb123). Italian. Museum of Fine Arts, Boston 38.1738.

51. c.1600-10. Woman's linen coif embroidered with barberries in polychrome silks. 46 103 72. c.1575- 1600. Woman's linen smock embroidered in purple silk and silver-gilt 55 112 English . Middleton Collection, Museum of Costume and Textiles, Nottingham. thread. Italian. The Metropolitan Museum of the Arts, New Yo rk TSR 41.64.

52. c.1610-20. Woman's linen coif embroidered with polychrome silks. 47 103 73. c. 1585- 95. Top of a woman's linen smock embroidered with motifs of rainbows in 56 113 Museum of Fine Arts, Boston 34.226. polychrome silks. English. Whitworth Art Gallery, University of Manchester 1015.

53. c.1610-20. Woman's linen coif embroidered with crimson silk, silver thread and 47 104 74. c.1590- 1600. Composite woman's linen smock embroidered in polychrome silks. 56 113 spangles. Royal Ontario Museum, Toronto 979.296.8. The Metropolitan Museum of A rt, New York TSR 10.124.1.

54. c.1610-20. Woman's linen coif embroidered with grotesques in polychrome silks. 47 104 75. c.1575-85. Woman's square-necked linen smock with cutwork. 57 114 115 Burrell Collection, Glasgow 29.22. Coughton Court, Alcester (National Trust).

55. c. 1610- 20. Woman's linen coif embroidered with white linen thread, edged with 47 104 76. c.1560-80. Woman's square-necked linen smock embroidered in black silk. 58 114 115 bobbin lace. Royal Ontario Museum, Toronto 973.1 62.3. English. Gallery of Costume, Platt Hall, Manchester City Galleries 2003. 76.

56. c.1615-25. Woman's linen hood, with bands of cutwork and embroidery. 48 104 77. c. 1560-80. Woman's linen smock with an embroidered knot-work pattern in red 59 116 English. Gallery of Costume, Platt Hall, Manchester City Galleries 2003. 73. silk. English. Victoria and Albert Museum, London T.326-1982.

57. c.1610-20. Woman's cream fustian hood, edged in linen bobbin lace. English. 48 104 78. c.1 620-30. Woman's linen smock embroidered with anima! and plant motifs 59 116 Gallery of Costume, Platt Hall, Manchester City Galleries 2003. 74. in pink silk. English. Victoria and Albert Museum, London T.2-1956.

58. c.1610-25. Woman's linen coif with coiling stems, embroidered in 48 105 79. c.1610-20. Woman's linen smock with a high collar and cutwork insertions. 60 117 polychrome silks. National Museums of Scotland, Edinburgh 1956-1198. English. Museum of London 28.83.

59. c.1615-25. Woman's linen cap with decorated border, turned back to frame the 48 105 80. c.1625-30. Woman's linen smock with high neckline and bobbin lace insertions. 60 117 face. English. Gallery of Costume, Platt Hall, Manchester City Galleries 2003.83. English. Victoria and Albert Museum, London T.243-1959.

60. c.1640-50. Woman's backless cap and forehead cloth in fine white linen. 49 105 81. c.1 600-10. Woman's linen smock with tapered sleeves, embroidered in 61 118 119 English. Gallery of Costume, Platt Hall, Manchester City Galleries 2003.100/2. deep pink silk. National Museums of S cotland, Edinburgh 1979-14.

61. c.1650- 60. Baby's cap in finest white linen, with couched white linen embroidery, 49 105 82. c. 1605-20. Woman's linen smock, embroidered with curling stems in pink silk. 62 119 edged in bobbin lace. The Blackborne Collection, Bowes Museum, Barnard Castle. English. Museu m of London. A21968.

ACCESSORIES AND OTHER ITEMS 83. c.1605-15. Wom an's linen smock, embroidered with a pattern of chevrons ' 62 120 in pink silk. English. Wadham College, Oxford. 62. c.1610-20. Pair of linen gloves embroidered with black and white silk. English. 50 106 Victoria and Albert Museum, London Cuming Loan 1 & JA. 84. c.1610-20. Woman's linen smock, embroidered in chevrons with black silk. 63 121 120 English. Fashion Museum, Bath BATMC II. 02.148 (loan) 63. c.1600. Linen drawers embroidered with polychrome an d metal threads. Italian. 50 106 The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York TSR 10.124.3. 85. c.1660. Woman's full cutwork linen smock with sunburst motifs. Spanish or 64 122 123 Portuguese. Royal Collection, Windsor.

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